New guy to Buckets

[husaberg]

One side of the aprilia forks is thread screw and the other is very large as it has a quick release front end system.
cbr axel is a 2 piece unit at 15mm and not wide enough so would need to make a new axel. Because of the large differnce from 15mm to 25mm thread and about 35mm on the other side I would need to turn a 35mm shiney steel shaft to 20 mm along most of its length and then make a new thread end with internal thread spacer at the other to take the made axel.

That's a problem, the threaded end can still have a thread insert i guess but the quick release? (not familiar with the design) but as you say a 35-20mm axle will be fraught with problems.

[mossy1200]

That's a problem, the threaded end can still have a thread insert i guess but the quick release? (not familiar with the design) but as you say a 35-20mm axle will be fraught with problems.

What worries me is changing the axel design may effect the equil lift of the 2 forks as a pair(hense older bikes racing with fork braces). So the thicker axel will lock them together well but a hand made design might allow twist of axel angle etc.

The wheels bearing retainer on one side is very deep as half the speedo drive fits internally so I think I can get 2 bearings on that side giving me more sideway strength with 3 total(Pu : 8.15 kN ). Total load of 3 is higher than 2 originals(Pu :11.9kN).

New bearings times 3..

Designation : NA 6905
d : 25 mm
D : 42 mm
B : 30 mm
C : 38 kN
C0 : 62 kN
Pu : 8,15 kN
r : 13000 r/min
r1 : 15000 r/min
M : 0,16 kg


Old bearings times 2..

Principal dimensions Basic load ratings Fatigue Speed ratings Mass Designation
dynamic static load Reference Limiting
limit speed speed
d D B C C0 Pu * = SKF Explorer bearing

mm Pu kN kN r/min

15 42 13 11,9 5,4 38000 24000 0,082 6302 *


But .Im not sure that im not forking this up now.

[richban]

What worries me is changing the axel design may effect the equil lift of the 2 forks as a pair(hense older bikes racing with fork braces). So the thicker axel will lock them together well but a hand made design might allow twist of axel angle etc.

The wheels bearing retainer on one side is very deep as half the speedo drive fits internally so I think I can get 2 bearings on that side giving me more sideway strength with 3 total(Pu : 8.15 kN ). Total load of 3 is higher than 2 originals(Pu :11.9kN).

New bearings times 3..

Designation : NA 6905
d : 25 mm
D : 42 mm
B : 30 mm
C : 38 kN
C0 : 62 kN
Pu : 8,15 kN
r : 13000 r/min
r1 : 15000 r/min
M : 0,16 kg


Old bearings times 2..

Principal dimensions Basic load ratings Fatigue Speed ratings Mass Designation
dynamic static load Reference Limiting
limit speed speed
d D B C C0 Pu * = SKF Explorer bearing

mm Pu kN kN r/min

15 42 13 11,9 5,4 38000 24000 0,082 6302 *


But .Im not sure that im not forking this up now.

Do you need a lie down now.

Hand made axel might be quite dodgy. But a properly engineered and machined one should work fine

[Yow Ling]

Most buckets use 12 or 15mm axles, 25 is way big.
Are these forks the best choice really ? a whole gsxr front end is an easy fit in anybike , has 39mm forks (i think) great brakes and anyone with a mig and an anglegrinder can do the stem swap.
the current fastest bucket down here has rg250 forks, and frame, 30 year old stuff !

[mossy1200]

Ok so everyone is saying I should pay to get a smaller axel made rather than fit different bearings.

Is this because 9mm wide bearings are 2 small 42/25/9 or because a 25mm hollow axel that would weigh the same as a 15mm solid axel?

Im not understanding how a axel designed for the forks isnt as good as a axel made for larger bearings.
Any axel made would need to be in 2 parts to fit the thread end on one side which is 25mm wide or no bearing can be fitted as the other end is 35mm on the fork clamp. A 2 part axel wont be as rigid on the forks letting them act individually rather than as a set. Dont forget they were desighned to be rigid.

[husaberg]

Ok so everyone is saying I should pay to get a smaller axel made rather than fit different bearings.

Is this because 9mm wide bearings are 2 small 42/25/9 or because a 25mm hollow axel that would weigh the same as a 15mm solid axel?

Im not understanding how a axel designed for the forks isnt as good as a axel made for larger bearings.
Any axel made would need to be in 2 parts to fit the thread end on one side which is 25mm wide or no bearing can be fitted as the other end is 35mm on the fork clamp. A 2 part axel wont be as rigid on the forks letting them act individually rather than as a set. Dont forget they were desighned to be rigid.

Post a pic of the attachment i was meaning to put in a thread like insert onto where you say it screws in and then lock the bugger in.
But without seeing it. I are simply flailing in the dark.

[mossy1200]

Post a pic of the attachment i was meaning to put in a thread like insert onto where you say it screws in and then lock the bugger in.
But without seeing it. I are simply flailing in the dark.

Mines the same as this one but it has no nut on the end. One of the forks has a 24mm machine thread end that the axel winds into. The other has a hole only. There is no nut ends. you wind it out with a screwdriver through the hole after loosening 2 small nuts like a clipon clamp at the larger end.


Sorry im in my dressing gown so no go garage tonight. I think the axel in photo is from a previous year. i have the rsv1000 showa shock version (53mm usd)

[husaberg]

Sorry im in my dressing gown so no go garage tonight.

Still laughing and slippers.

Can't really picture how it works without the nut.
But you might have your work cut out for you.
53mm they should be up to it (mine are 35mm) LOL

[mossy1200]

Still laughing and slippers.

Can't really picture how it works without the nut.
But you might have your work cut out for you.
53mm they should be up to it (mine are 35mm) LOL

Ok yes I put my slippers on and went to the garage. I am indeed the dildo you think I am.
The guy that sent me the forks taped the nut to the inside of the left fork leg so it wouldnt get lost so I wound the axel out when it would normally pull out.
It is clamped both sides after you tighten the thicker end and do up the nut you tighten the smaller side clamp.
I guess I could use a 42/15/13 or a 42/20/11 bearing with new shaft but theres a bit more work involved than 3 bearings a centre spacer and 2 outer spacers. I really need the tripple mounted, forks in and wheel in place maybe with the 3 bearings to work out disc space and caliper brackets before machining shafts and spacers of any size. The small 6905 bearings are cheap enough to use and discard after getting measurements if I dont keep them or even run a round before changing axel.
Maybe I should have sent my original forks to RT for racetech ohlins refurb. LOL

Im still going to keep going on this front as it owes me $500 so far. I thought about rgv and zxr usds but they all come with damaged sliders and pits plus leaking seals now for 200+ bucks.
At least these showas have preload, high and low speed rebound adjusters.

[mossy1200]

http://www.1tail.com/Moto_Wheels/Rac...16-000/707434/

[husaberg]

Ok yes I put my slippers on and went to the garage. I am indeed the dildo you think I am.
The guy that sent me the forks taped the nut to the inside of the left fork leg so it wouldnt get lost so I wound the axel out when it would normally pull out.
It is clamped both sides after you tighten the thicker end and do up the nut you tighten the smaller side clamp.
I guess I could use a 42/15/13 or a 42/20/11 bearing with new shaft but theres a bit more work involved than 3 bearings a centre spacer and 2 outer spacers. I really need the tripple mounted, forks in and wheel in place maybe with the 3 bearings to work out disc space and caliper brackets before machining shafts and spacers of any size. The small 6905 bearings are cheap enough to use and discard after getting measurements if I dont keep them or even run a round before changing axel.
Maybe I should have sent my original forks to RT for racetech ohlins refurb. LOL

Im still going to keep going on this front as it owes me $500 so far. I thought about rgv and zxr usds but they all come with damaged sliders and pits plus leaking seals now for 200+ bucks.
At least these showas have preload, high and low speed rebound adjusters.

Yeah all this gives me great pleasure because it make me think mine will be much easier.
i am procrastinating far to much on mine.I should harden up and pull me finger out of my arse.
Regardless you should end up with a built proof front end at least. Whatever system you use keep a watch on the bearing capacities.
I still think it would be easier to mod the fork ends to suit, but i guess the width will end up very long. like you say it won't cost much to mock it up and there might be room for a larger bearing in the wheel anyway. I will go off now my Cocoa is getting cold......

[gav]

Just buy the rim to suit the forks http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/moto...-488518584.htm

[mossy1200]

Front end is mounted. Front end is slightly shorter as its sitting now or can be raised to the height of the original forks.
Located the steering stops.

Measured up the area for bearings and getting one side filled with ally 4 mm on what was the speedo drive outer seal and lathed so will run with 2 bearings 42/25/9 on each side so 4 total. Getting the bearing crush spacer lathed to length tomorrow. Then measure the spacers after bearings installed.

[husaberg]

Shit you don't muck around do you.
so what were the bearings you used?

[mossy1200]

Shit you don't muck around do you.
so what were the bearings you used?

They are a commercial deep ball bearing with grub locks. We used them on bag handler belt rollers. They take a hiding and were free leftovers. Im not even sure what they are listed as but im thinking they wont be cheap to get. I still needed to make a crush tube for them because they arnt like normal steering head bearings. The Aprilia shaft was so large there wasnt many options.