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Thread: Ask an Engineer

  1. #91
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    Do you have enough journals for that? Oldham couplers won't support the cam, so you need at least two journals on each side of it, if you're only doing the one cylinder you'll only have the end journal on the one side right?
    "A shark on whiskey is mighty risky, but a shark on beer is a beer engineer" - Tad Ghostal

  2. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by bogan View Post
    Do you have enough journals for that? Oldham couplers won't support the cam, so you need at least two journals on each side of it, if you're only doing the one cylinder you'll only have the end journal on the one side right?
    Ah, I see. Yup, journals are between the lobes, you can see where in the last pics.
    I had my hopes up there, would work if I went for a big bang set up, but that'll root the rest of the engine...
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul in NZ View Post
    Ha...Thats true but life is full horrible choices sometimes Merv. Then sometimes just plain stuff happens... and then some more stuff happens.....




    Alloy, stainless and Ti polishing.
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  3. #93
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    Here be a pic of where I'll be chopping/joining
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul in NZ View Post
    Ha...Thats true but life is full horrible choices sometimes Merv. Then sometimes just plain stuff happens... and then some more stuff happens.....




    Alloy, stainless and Ti polishing.
    Bling your bike out!
    PM me

  4. #94
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    24th July 2006 - 11:53
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    Quote Originally Posted by ducatilover View Post
    I was assuming it'd help reduce the risk of the cam twisting in the join (remember, I know nussing about engineering stuff)

    If it's not needed, I won't do it
    It's quite possible a mild shrink fit on the sleeve would hold the torsional load, but I wouldn't trust it. Oldham couplers would be nice, if yo ucould buy them off the shelf, (fair bit of work to make) and if you had room to swing them. You dont. The simplest way to form a mechanical drive that'll fit in there is to pin a sleeve radially through the shafts both sides of the joint. I'd use taper pins, nominal dia about 5mm. Pre-assemble the shaft and check run-out and timing before reaming for pins.

    All you need to do that is a lathe and a drill press, easy. I've got taper reamers if you decide to go that way. And pins.
    Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon

  5. #95
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    Bore through the centre of the camshaft, cut the shaft and put a spigot inside, give it a decent chamfer then bronze the thing back together in correct alignment

    H-D did this with the rocker shafts on the original XR750 motors to get the angles right after shortening the 883 cylinders, so it's not like it's never been tried
    it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
    those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
    (PostalDave on ADVrider)

  6. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by ducatilover View Post
    Here be a pic of where I'll be chopping/joining
    Click image for larger version. 

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    What diameter is the shaft at the join? And what clearance does the standard shaft have from the oil runner?
    Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon

  7. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by pete376403 View Post
    Bore through the centre of the camshaft, cut the shaft and put a spigot inside, give it a decent chamfer then bronze the thing back together in correct alignment

    H-D did this with the rocker shafts on the original XR750 motors to get the angles right after shortening the 883 cylinders, so it's not like it's never been tried
    Yeah, it's an option. Think it'd work best if you made up a fairly substantial jig to keep it consentric.
    Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon

  8. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by ducatilover View Post
    Cool, I'll have a looky and see what I can find about them!

    As long as whatever I do is safe with revs (ZX6 pulls 15k, I can drop the limiter to 10k, but that's gay)
    http://www.britcycle.com/Manuals/Bui...sh%20Twins.pdf
    http://www.650motorcycles.com/270277updates.html
    http://www.offsetcrank.com/thefirst.htm

    Quote Originally Posted by Ocean1 View Post
    Yeah, it's an option. Think it'd work best if you made up a fairly substantial jig to keep it consentric.

    http://www.offsetcrank.com/bike_cams.htm
    Last edited by husaberg; 15th January 2013 at 19:33. Reason: made it smaller for you ocean you must have new specs aye.......



    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  9. #99
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    Im worried about the loading , while its not reversed it is repeated and again while the movement isn't big , the frequency is high and fatigue may be an issue, as well as the interference fit remember it will be running around 100 deg c more or let , which will affect any interference fits
    the last idea with the bronze with a sleeve seems the most sturdy , but until you have an idea of the loading .....

    Do a free-body diagram , then a loading diagram this will help you making a decision,

    just my concerns

    Stephen
    "Look, Madame, where we live, look how we live ... look at the life we have...The Republic has forgotten us."

  10. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by husaberg View Post
    massively oversizes pic
    Perfekt...
    Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon

  11. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ocean1 View Post
    Perfekt...
    Did you have a look at the links it did them in an interesting way.
    the one i can't find it the Triumph that an Aussie did to try out Phil Irving 76 degree concept



    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  12. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by husaberg View Post
    Did you have a look at the links it did them in an interesting way.
    the one i can't find it the Triumph that an Aussie did to try out Phil Irving 76 degree concept
    There's a Matchless twin sidecar racing in NZ with a 76 degree crank the owner made himself
    "If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough power."


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  13. #103
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    What about stainless TIG? When I searched for info on welding gearshafts and stuff for the trike it was the most preferred method I found....
    Drew for Prime Minister!

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    www.prospeedmc.com for parts ex U.S.A ( He's a Kiwi! )

  14. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by husaberg View Post
    Did you have a look at the links it did them in an interesting way.
    the one i can't find it the Triumph that an Aussie did to try out Phil Irving 76 degree concept
    Briefly. They seemed to have more issues with cams than cranks.
    Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon

  15. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by DEATH_INC. View Post
    What about stainless TIG? When I searched for info on welding gearshafts and stuff for the trike it was the most preferred method I found....
    Is a good way to manage gear shafts, but they're carbon steel. Looks like this cam is cast iron, and while you can bronze weld cast iron with a TIG it's not the tool I'd use.
    Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon

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