ESE's works engine tuner

[husaberg]

It's 75D, harder than I expected...

Upcoming project, unconventional Derbi build, a test bench for trying out new ideas

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RkIttVMREHc

That might be a little to stiff?
Google informs me engine vibration Mounts are generally 60-70A. (I checked)

then again it should be better than before anyway

[adegnes]

That might be a little to stiff?
Google informs me engine vibration Mounts are generally 60-70A. (I checked)

then again it should be better than before anyway

Thanks for the info and video! I just saw "75" and didn't know about the different scales(should have looked that up...) No wonder it was surprisingly hard when cured...
I ordered some 85a after squeezing on some skateboard wheels I felt had the stiffness I need.

[husaberg]

Thanks for the info and video! I just saw "75" and didn't know about the different scales(should have looked that up...) No wonder it was surprisingly hard when cured...
I ordered some 85a after squeezing on some skateboard wheels I felt had the stiffness I need.

You could always machine some out of skateboard wheels or what not.

[adegnes]

You could always machine some out of skateboard wheels or what not.

Yep could do that, or just buy skateboard truck bushings, or plain round stock, or even ready made silent blocks.
I've never done much casting with plastics, and wanted to learn more about it.
On the subject, I plan for the wrist pins to be able to rotate in the urethane while the engine moves, will this cause problems with rapid wear you think? Maybe better to cast in bronze bushings or similar for the pins ro ride in.

And off the subject, I'm seriously considering getting a 3d printer kit and give "lost pla" casting of cylinders a go.

[peewee]

Currently the fastest engines use the 2 petal setup as the extra dividers for 3 or 4 per side create more turbulence ( or double that in a VeeForce )
Extending the dividers both horizontally and vertically with airfoil leading edges also decreases the flow disruption caused
when the air suddenly hits a short support close to the petal.
The 2 wide petals will be alot stiffer, so will have to be thinner ( or waisted at the clamp face ) to achieve the same lift due to case depression assisted by intake column tuning.
I have seen tests adding vertical dividers to an older VeeForce ( that already has the horizontal wing shape ) and this made better power.
Newer ( higher flowing ) versions of the VeeForce have the vertical dividers now as well.

since i removed some cage fingers, I was using a 2 wide petal glass fiber at .53mm thick but I made some calls and I think I can get some 2 wide petal carbon fiber low tension, probly .40mm thick im guessing. think these would be worth trying ? maybe even add a small stiffener petal on top if needed

[wobbly]

There is lots of power to be had using the thinnest petals you can, with backup stiffeners.
Also biasing the flow to the top set is the go.
The TM KZ10C uses the same petals top and bottom
But double backups on the bottom and a single on on top,upside down ie curved upward.
The best setup in a SKUSA CR125 is a single bottom blade with double backups, the top reed is 3 petals with a spacer under a single
short backup.

[ken seeber]

And off the subject, I'm seriously considering getting a 3d printer kit and give "lost pla" casting of cylinders a go.

Alex,
Now you’re talking. Feel free to post your casting experiences in the Bucket Foundry. Also feel free to bring the RUM (Rudimentary Undigestable Matter).
PS: Don’t forget your safety glasses when splashing hot metal.

[F5 Dave]

And special Foundry shorts.

[husaberg]

Yep could do that, or just buy skateboard truck bushings, or plain round stock, or even ready made silent blocks.
I've never done much casting with plastics, and wanted to learn more about it.
On the subject, I plan for the wrist pins to be able to rotate in the urethane while the engine moves, will this cause problems with rapid wear you think? Maybe better to cast in bronze bushings or similar for the pins ro ride in.

And off the subject, I'm seriously considering getting a 3d printer kit and give "lost pla" casting of cylinders a go.

i think you should be fine, Poly suspension bushes do the same job but under far greater loads without the need for sleeves, just a tiny bit of lube to stop the squeeks.

[Ocean1]

On the subject, I plan for the wrist pins to be able to rotate in the urethane while the engine moves, will this cause problems with rapid wear you think? Maybe better to cast in bronze bushings or similar for the pins ro ride in.

Under normal circumstances urethane wears very well, better than any bush you might build in.

Doesn't like heat though.

[adegnes]

Alex,
Now you’re talking. Feel free to post your casting experiences in the Bucket Foundry. Also feel free to bring the RUM (Rudimentary Undigestable Matter).
PS: Don’t forget your safety glasses when splashing hot metal.

I will, and of course I'll bring the rum!

And special Foundry shorts.

i think you should be fine, Poly suspension bushes do the same job but under far greater loads without the need for sleeves, just a tiny bit of lube to stop the squeeks.

Great!

[marsheng]

Data loggers are great but often you get the data too late especially in a 2 stroke. When you get back to the pits, you can see that the CHT rose every lap by XX degrees and was at max just before the back wheel locked up. I've made a CHT/EGT analog display that gives real time data in an easy to see instrument. It is small and so can be fitted easily to any bike or kart.

What I would like is any one with real data from CHTs and EGTs from specific engines so I can get an idea on the range of temperatures that are actually being measured.

About the only CHTs I can find is for Rotax Aircraft engines and that is between 180 and 220 deg C.
I'm guessing that most air cooled engines are similar, hence the posting.

Water temperatures are around 60 deg c, but does anyone have an idea on what the plug temperature would be. I'm sure the plug temperature rises more quickly than the water temp does.

I'm hoping that my monitoring EGT and CHT live, deto and seizing can be avoided.

So if you have some actual reliable data, can you post it please with the motor it was measured on.

Once I have data, I'll be selling the units.

[jfn2]

wobbly:
Do you have any pics of the reed set-ups your talking about?

[OopsClunkThud]

About the only CHTs I can find is for Rotax Aircraft engines and that is between 180 and 220 deg C.
I'm guessing that most air cooled engines are similar, hence the posting.

I've run CHT/EGT on 5 different bikes (all air cooled, 50-160cc) and use 175-225C as the safe range for CHT. This was for endurance rides where the temp is held for long periods of time. I find CHT tends to be highest at lower RPM and downshifting will bring it back in line.

[wobbly]

Temp range for the under plug depends alot on how good the cooling of the insert is ( in water cooled ) and how good
the head design and material type is ( in air cooled ).
The CHT range is around 160 to 260*C
EGT is usually in the 580 to 680*C
But as far as seizure prevention is concerned the important deal is that the instant deto begins, the EGT delta rise slows and the CHT goes mental.
As long as they are both rising together all is OK - and NO,the egt dropping as the CHT rising does NOT mean its rich.
Once serious deto is occurring the EGT will drop quickly, whilst the CHT goes up seriously.
This is due to all the energy of combustion being consumed in creating the deto radicals, that eat away the piston and head in the squish band.