500cc GP Replica thread

[husaberg]

Wrong way around or confused.

A small mc will indeed shift less fluid for the travel. A too big one will have a stiff lever and crucially Less leverage. That produces less power at the caliper.

Smaller may come right into the bar. Braided lines improve that over rubber, there will be mondo leverage but too small feels like it can't be bled properly.

okay wrong way round, everyday is a school day, all I remember is it was herculean effort to do nothing with no real feel either.

[F5 Dave]

Think of it as a long brake lever (small) vs short (big bore). Go to extremes. 300mm lever. 50mm lever.

Also Shows why shorty lever that were so fashionable on roadbikes are silly.

[husaberg]

Think of it as a long brake lever (small) vs short (big bore). Go to extremes. 300mm lever. 50mm lever.

Also Shows why shorty lever that were so fashionable on roadbikes are silly.

okay...cheers a school day.
The only time to me shorties made sense was on say an old xr200 for the clutch as those old short deg legged ones they were less likely to break as they never poke out (prior to spring loaded ones being made affordable/findable )and were cheap if they ever did. lever perch combo made sure they could be replaced easy as well plus we're ball ended
I used to always use accessory honda XR/cr pattern ones and perch for the bucket clutch or any offroader as every motorbike shop in nz had one....
but always gen or a exp aftermarket for the brakes. As they were better made more malleable less pot metal.
The cheesy shorty on the Dogcati didn't even lock the wheel but the genius who put it on also had the switch block partially blocking it.
better quality levers have a bush or occasionally a bearing in the pivot (Berg/KTM.) I drilled out and put a bush in a gen slogged out clutch lever the other day to keep it as a spare. As the previous animal had used a std bolt in the perch which wore the hole oval. That cost a set of clutch plates as I thought it had freeboard only instead it was the lever moving on the tard.
but TBH some as you say some pattern clutch are just useless. shorty or not.
hand-guards on the Supermoto are awesome, a crash = at worst is a wipe dust off loosen pinch-bolts and straighten up the fork angle in a handy tree/gap fence
No stove'd in pipe broken fairing or brackets levers etc

[F5 Dave]

I have cheapo levers for most bikes cable tied out of the way just in case I need them. Better to ride home with a dumb lever than no lever at all.

[SaferRides]

Think of it as a long brake lever (small) vs short (big bore). Go to extremes. 300mm lever. 50mm lever.

Also Shows why shorty lever that were so fashionable on roadbikes are silly.

We'll, it depends. I have a shorty brake lever on the R1 and with my hand in its normal position on the throttle, my first 3 fingers fit comfortably on the straight part of the brake lever. I could not get more leverage from a standard lever unless I slid the palm of my hand past the end of the grip.

Plus I do almost all of my braking with 2 fingers.

I'll just get standard length next time though, but I find the dog leg levers much more comfortable than the standard curved ones.

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[F5 Dave]

Try both levers. You may get surprised how the two fingers slide further on application with a longer lever. I put cute shorty's on my 675, thinking that. Were a bit square feeling, but the looked better. Wombled on for about a year. Swapped a ride on a mate's to show off my suspension and then noticed his brakes were much better.

Got home, put std levers on, and test rode. Brake upgrade for free.
Shorty's got cable tied under sidecover.

[Kickaha]

We'll, it depends. I have a shorty brake lever on the R1 and with my hand in its normal position on the throttle, my first 3 fingers fit comfortably on the straight part of the brake lever. I could not get more leverage from a standard lever unless I slid the palm of my hand past the end of the grip.

Are you able to move the master cylinder further inboard on the bar, that's what I do with stock levers where possible to position them better

[SaferRides]

Are you able to move the master cylinder further inboard on the bar, that's what I do with stock levers where possible to position them better

Yes, I've done that on other bikes, but with the clipons on the R1 there isn't clearance. I can only just adjust the lever angle to something reasonable.

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[SaferRides]

Try both levers. You may get surprised how the two fingers slide further on application with a longer lever. I put cute shorty's on my 675, thinking that. Were a bit square feeling, but the looked better. Wombled on for about a year. Swapped a ride on a mate's to show off my suspension and then noticed his brakes were much better.

Got home, put std levers on, and test rode. Brake upgrade for free.
Shorty's got cable tied under sidecover.

I have the standard levers so can try that. I did use the clutch lever a while ago, but it felt quite uncomfortable because of the profile.

Once the brakes are warm, I have no trouble applying enough force. The first stop with cold pads always needs more of a squeeze, but all sintered pads seem like that.

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