I'm really digging those black b-kings right now, if only i could win the bloody lotto
I'm really digging those black b-kings right now, if only i could win the bloody lotto
Go Coops
I reckon the FZ1 is the best of the Jap nekid 1000's both performance and looks wise
Cheap and easy mods.
Gut the cat from the collector. 10 minute job. Helps the mid range.
The air box in these things are a joke and have a tiny little filter. Whilst you are fitting the stacks cut the bottom right off the front of the air box and either descreen the original filter or replace it with a K&N, DNA or similar.
No sweat to get more HP from these than a stock R1 and cheaply too, but you NEED to let it breath.
Not quite so cheap and easy, but well worth it.
An FCE and smaller secondary flies from Ivan.
A little dearer.
PC3.
There are many maps available that are quite reliable, if you know where to look.
If you are real rich get the Ignition Module too and have it mapped.
Even more expensive.
Full Yoshi system.
I am running the Factory Pro stacks.
Excellent! little better on the low-mid. Hard to say in the mid range (would you really noticean HP or 2 at 8k?), but there is a second wind at about 9,000rpm.
At which point do you think a PC3 is required, i'm told that it's fine at the moment but if I was do the airbox and filter mods as you suggest do you reckon it might upset the mixture to the point where the computer can't compensate?
I like the idea but I don't want to screw the bike by making it run too lean or whatever.
I'll be getting a FCE as soon as I can afford it, can get it through Waikato Yamaha which reduces the hassle of getting the bit from overseas.
I understand that with the FCE the secondaries are opened sooner too.
Italian perhaps
With lots of nice fruit:
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Mo...-156891522.htm
Something you could mod the hell out of:
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Mo...-154168783.htm
I didn't think!!! I experimented!!!
I don't believe you have any worries there.
Why?
Well several in the states are running the air box mods and filter sans PC3.
Also we fitted the PC3 to my bike as the first mod and put it on the dyno. Got 5hp out of it then added the Yoshi TRC and back on the dyno, got another 5.
The first time we had it on the dyno, we added a lot of fuel at around 4 - 4,500 RPM and took a lot out below 4,000rpm (even with the o2 sensor disconnected).
From then on I have only subtracted fuel from this first map.
Point is, it is lean from the factory around 4k, however, we have never run more fuel than when it was completely stock, even with the airbox and filter mod, gutted cat etc.
Confused?
I definatley have the knackered knees (thanx mx) and back sindrome, just cant bridge the 10k gap between my sv and the b.
I thought a vtwin b would be pretty awesome actually, that big v twin sound and all
Go Coops
Thanks Chris....Tis' good to get feedback like this...there are only a handful of mates on here that I would ask of, and listen too, when it comes to the advice I am after on such matters....that prick below is another one...
Utter Bastard....
Nice Bastard....
Yes Steve, I would have to agree....dressed in black would me choice of colour but the new 08' is a bit up there in $$$$
Have added that link to Favs'...Salesmand said a belly pan would cost around $500......Cheaper from the UK and I could paint it pinkish!....
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