My little dilemma...

[barty5]

I'm in elerslie / Mt wellington area Barty5, what's your name? Not sure if you go by your username at work haha

nick name is bart but ask for aaron if its not me that answers

[cheese]

Yeah I was walking around asking for Barty the first time I went there.

[Pierce]

Hi bart I won't be coming into the workshop mate. Greg gave me a hand and we got it out. Thanks heaps for the offer there tho mate

[barty5]

Sweet as glad yah got it sorted

[Reckless]

Hi bart I won't be coming into the workshop mate. Greg gave me a hand and we got it out. Thanks heaps for the offer there tho mate

Good Man that Greg fella!!

[The Stranger:Me]

You could use an ezyout which is the correct tool for the job.
I think I got my CK set from Bunnings. Not top quality but handy to have around.

Personally, I always make an ezyout the last resort and never use a cheap one.
It's a fricken pain if you snap the easyout in the bolt.
Of course you results may vary.

[Reckless]

Personally, I always make an ezyout the last resort and never use a cheap one.
It's a fricken pain if you snap the easyout in the bolt.
Of course you results may vary.

Yeh mate I hear ya there! Been there!
Its bloody hard to try and drill the ezyout out?
Its all about feel and pressure isn't it.
You have to decide if its so tight in there drilling and re tapping is better than the ezyout? Tough call sometimes?

[theblacksmith]

As Greg mentioned earlier - the secret to success with this is drilling bang on central.There are also 2 types of ezy-outs -the tapered left hand spiral type (which I hate cos theyre crap- they put too much outward force on the broken stud in my opinion) and the square type with special cutting edges on corners (Blue Point and Snap On etc).
Other factors need to be considered such as corrossion, bolt bent in hole etc.If the bolt is gonna turn then ezy-out can be the best option.However in my experience I have had to drill and re-tap the threaded hole.I used to curse people that brought me stuff like this and they've drilled their own hole off centre or they've simply mutilated the whole thing.I have in the past also had to build up a weld on the bolt very carefully and then weld a nut on,-let it cool and use the nut to screw it out.If heat is an issue-Wurth or Strata Welding supply a heat shield paste(silica mud/clay) which can be used to cover and protect parts.
A friend of mine once snapped a cylinder head bolt on a Daihatsu 2.8 diesel motor - all other 9 bolts were tightened to their final stage. I inserted a 2.5mm welding electrode down the hole and struck an arc.I then had my friend turn off the welder at power source which caused the electrode to stick to the broken bolt(about 3 secs after striking the arc) and we were able to unscrew the head bolt out of the hole(which was about 90mm deep) and replace it with another one without having to undo the other bolts and hence saving a new head gasket.Was a big gamble but it worked!The head bolt was 14mm wide I think. If any of you ever break an ezy out or tap in a hole - go find an engineering outlet who has a spark eroder or wire eroder. They can succesfully remove the hardened steel tool without damaging the hole or the thread. Hope this helps any of you.