Tales from the Emporium [Archive] - Page 2

buggsubique

22nd June 2007, 19:56

A small pair of 55w spotties from SuperCheap and a harness for $50 and a bit of fiddling around and...

Ummm...

It's bright but doesn't seem to throw much light.
Need a night test to see though.
Should be a good wide beam to compliment the high beam.

Mate, let us know the results of your "night test" - was looking to do something similar for the DR-Z, but not too sure about overloading the electrical system... can the alternator take it along with the tail light, headlight, indicators etc blah blah or will it simply drain more off the battery while running the extra light? I see a couple of threads on TT with guys rewinding their coils or buying custom with higher output but I cannae be arsed with all that...

Here's a thread of a dude in Aussie with a nice lookin set up. Just scroll down a bit to see the headlights pic: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=198916&page=2

NordieBoy

22nd June 2007, 23:02

cooneyr

23rd June 2007, 08:59

Yep, Burren Riders'one is nice.
The Buell mod is cool and about $200nz as well.

Some of the US guys are running 100/130W bulbs without problems.
I'm totalling 115W on high and with the spottie on.
The DR stator puts out 200W max.
The main current draw apart from blinkers is the brake light which is a LED on mine.

Not sure if I'd prefer lowbeam with a spottie for the longer distance or high beam with a flood spottie...

From my experience with 4wding a high mounted flood (i.e. roof) with high beam on it best. Gives you more light immediately in front to see potholes etc while still being able to see where the track goes. Floods generally spread more than low beam lights. If you are into serious speeds in the dark I would swing the other way though :innocent: :D

Cheers R

mbazza

23rd June 2007, 10:29

[QUOTE=NordieBoy;842216]2001 with 7000Km on the clock.

Givi screen.
ScottOiler Touring kit.

Tis well set up! Cool gravel up your way! On the wee-strom anyway. Should be home for a good DR. Cheers

NordieBoy

23rd June 2007, 10:31

If you are into serious speeds in the dark I would swing the other way though :innocent: :D

Well that solves that problem.

I find I have more of a serious lack of speed in the dark.

buggsubique

23rd June 2007, 19:01

From my experience with 4wding a high mounted flood (i.e. roof) with high beam on it best. Gives you more light immediately in front to see potholes etc while still being able to see where the track goes. Floods generally spread more than low beam lights. If you are into serious speeds in the dark I would swing the other way though :innocent: :D

Cheers R

Yeah back in the day we used to wire up all sorts of lights on out mountain bikes and helmets and get out on the trails at night. Helmet lights work a treat off road but are illegal on the road (pretty sure). Gives you a high-angled light where you want it - near, far, high, low & great for cornering. Normally we would run a few extra volts across a lower rated bulb to get the brighter light...just means carrying spare bulbs though.

NordieBoy

24th June 2007, 18:52

Went up the Maungatapu to see if there was any snow at the top.
There wasn't :(

There was a bit on the transmitter track off the top.
Enough that I think knobblies would be in order for me to try more snow stuff.

My bike likes poseing...
Showing some belly this time.

NordieBoy

24th June 2007, 18:56

Just done a night ride up to the caretakers residence up the dam.
The spotty compliments the high beam well.
Throws out a very wide beam that fills the dead spot between the bike and the high beam nicely and lights up the trees/bush around you so there's no big light/dark contrast.

So far so good.

clint640

25th June 2007, 11:41

Lookin good, I mounted a similar light on the KTM a while back, but haven't done any proper testing yet.

Cheers
Clint

warewolf

25th June 2007, 15:42

Lookin good, I mounted a similar light on the KTM a while back, but haven't done any proper testing yet.2nd weekend in October will be a good test...

clint640

25th June 2007, 15:52

2nd weekend in October will be a good test...

Yeah, what the hell, I've been meaning to do it for a while, why not this year. Team 640?

I think I'll fit a bigger light for that though. A helmet mounted HID would be tha shizz...

Cheers
Clint

warewolf

25th June 2007, 17:08

Yeah, what the hell, I've been meaning to do it for a while, why not this year. Team 640?:2thumbsup It's a hoot.

I think I'll fit a bigger light for that though. A helmet mounted HID would be tha shizz...:Punk: Would have to wired into your high-beam switch. :laugh: That might just solve the problem of lights not shining around corners. :niceone: Been out on the mtb a couple of times recently with only a handlebar-mounted light, it's not the best, it doesn't point where you need to see.

Just in the process of making up the HID 21 watter for my mtb, then the next project is the 35W jobbie for the Triumph... which might just have to be deployed on the Adventure for the GC. But it's not like I need any more forward lighting on the Adventure, the problem is lighting up the corners (as opposed to lighting up the tyre in the corners!) :D

NordieBoy

25th June 2007, 22:56

Hmmm.
Had the stock pipe on for a tank and got around 1km/L less than the SuperTrapp.
Now I know it's jetted a bit too lean and running a 150 compared to the ST's 155 main so should rule for fuel economy.

But...
I think as it's so quiet I don't hear what revs it's pulling and am riding a gear lower than normal.
Quite often I found myself looking down and doing 50-60kph in 3rd instead of 4th.

Pros...
1. listening to music in the hills.
2. lack of audible popping in off-throttle conditions.

Cons...
1. less power/torque.
2. less feedback from the engine.
3. less mileage.
4. heavy.
5. hot!

Need to find out if the torque/power is actual or perceived though.

NordieBoy

26th June 2007, 22:08

SuperTrapp and DJ155 main are back on.

Just measured the tread depth again...
Rear Mitas E07 5mm tread side of centre knob (8mm or so on side knobs).
Front IRC GP21 7.5mm tread side of centre knob

As far as I can tell I've used 0.5mm of tread off the centre knobs on the front tyre in 5726km.
A little more (<1mm) off the trailing edge of the 2nd row though.

Also have to make a little cover for the spottie as I can see the (bright) top of it when riding.

NordieBoy

27th June 2007, 09:56

Looks like front and rear springs from Jesse (http://www.kientech.com) will be $293US inc freight to NZ.
At the moment that's $364NZ.

NordieBoy

30th June 2007, 13:25

Hmmm......
Jus noticed my choke cable has no freeplay.
If it was on slightly, richening it up, I wonder if that would explain why I seem to get away with running leaner MJ/needle combinations than others?

NordieBoy

4th July 2007, 17:21

Choke working better now but I will go up to the 160 main jet and drop the needle on the weekend as it doesn't feel right on the top end.

Also...
Springs are on the way! :woohoo:
$293US from Jesse Kientz.
The exchange rate was too good to pass up.
$380NZ for front and rear springs and rear adapter plate.

Zuki Bandit

4th July 2007, 19:47

Hey Nordie, Welcome to KB!

NordieBoy

4th July 2007, 21:16

Thanks, I think I'll like it here.

cooneyr

4th July 2007, 21:43

Thanks, I think I'll like it here.

Your warped dude - I like it.

Cheers R

P.S. Did you muck with my bike? I stuck a 14 tooth front on and if felt like a completely different bike down the Eyre river last weekend. It felt like it pulled much more cleanly and stronger from lower in the revs and also would run at 100 at about 1/4 less throttle (but with more revs obviously due to the 14 tooth). I need to stick the 15 tooth back on but me suspects something is up?

Maybe I've just been of the beast for too long.

NordieBoy

4th July 2007, 22:05

cooneyr

5th July 2007, 08:02

You've been off it too long :D
I just rode it home via the Whangamoa Saddle and measured the spring lengths etc.

The 14t makes a huge difference.
Your engine pulled nice and strong with the 15t it should be sweet with the 14.
Now get that header done and shim the needle.
Hang on...
Wonder if yours is using a different main jet to the rest of ours to suit that pipe?

Going from the 14 to 15 and back on the Nordie showed me what a difference it made.

Your right I should do the header. I've always wondered if I had a different jet given the different pipe. I'm a bit useless at tuning carbs and I've tried plenty of times (not the DR though) so I'm kinda nervous bout playing with the carb. A carb is about the only thing where the "if it aint broke dont fix it" applies.

If I end up going anywhere this weekend I'm going to stick the 15 back on to see if it is more like I remember it. Might to do the header as well.

Cheers R

NordieBoy

5th July 2007, 08:29

Stick the 15t back on and take it for ride before doing the header.
The header should make it pull more cleanly throughout the rev range.

NordieBoy

5th July 2007, 17:24

Hmmm...
Upped the main jet from DJ155 to DJ160 and the needle from 4th to 3rd from top today.
The bottom and mid range were fine but the top end felt like it was a little lean so I'll see how this goes.
I'd like to drop it to 2nd clip from the top but the spring wouldn't have any purchase on the needle.

70-100kph in 4th was about 3 secs.
70-100kph in 5th was about 4 secs.
About the same numbers as before but feels a bit better on top.
Need to do an air/fuel test.

Crisis management

6th July 2007, 08:10

I'd like to drop it to 2nd clip from the top but the spring wouldn't have any purchase on the needle.

Hmmmm, do I detect a downside to the shortened spring?

You could pack the spring to maintain pressure on the needle, shouldn't cause any coil binding or bottoming out problems.

cooneyr

6th July 2007, 08:39

Hmmmm, do I detect a downside to the shortened spring?

You could pack the spring to maintain pressure on the needle, shouldn't cause any coil binding or bottoming out problems.

This is why we let Nordie make all the changes then and only maybe then do we start fettling.

As an aside. The guys on the Yahoo DR650 forum got round to talking about the dualstar center stand again and somebody put up a link about a sw-motech centre stand as advertised on twisted throttle.com (http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/2668). They kindly put the installation instructions on the web as well which has enough detail for me to develop an "improved version".

Are any others interested in a center stand? If there is enough interest I might have ago at developing one for feedback. My first improvement would be to make it as easily removable as possible so that if going for a fang off road you can take the legs and springs off easily.

I like having a garage again :D

Cheers R

NordieBoy

6th July 2007, 09:06

Hmmmm, do I detect a downside to the shortened spring?

You could pack the spring to maintain pressure on the needle, shouldn't cause any coil binding or bottoming out problems.

Actually there is a downside to the shortened spring :D
It seems that in gusty conditions the opened airbox can become pressurised enough to push the carb slide up without your input resulting in a dead spot for a second.
Spacing the spring out with some washers on the top back to previous length but still trimmed so it's stiffer still works better than the stock spring.

My problem is not enough needle above the e-clip fitting in the hole in the spring nylon thingy to make sure the spring won't go walkies.

May have to find a jet in between the DJ155 and 160 (DJ157.5)

NordieBoy

6th July 2007, 09:14

Are any others interested in a center stand? If there is enough interest I might have ago at developing one for feedback. My first improvement would be to make it as easily removable as possible so that if going for a fang off road you can take the legs and springs off easily.

I like having a garage again :D

Cheers R

I'm interested.

That stand has been "in development" now for about 3 years :yes:
A 1-armed, blind guy could have made them quicker.

As an aside to your aside, it seems that "Power Pegs" for the Husqvarna fit the DR with almost no modification - about $150nz.

Then I could nick the DR pegs and stick them on the XR (almost no mods) where I am in dire need of good pegs as I stand up a lot on it and the stock pegs are about 5mm wide and 15mm long :D

NordieBoy

6th July 2007, 09:17

ALSO...
When test riding your bike make sure you ride it with the gear you normally use...

Testing mine yesterday I wore a different helmet and no bikepack on the back.
I was a bit worried about the different sound it was making until I twigged.

Crisis management

6th July 2007, 09:39

I'm not sure about that centrestand, only works on lowered bikes etc seems a bit of a claytons centre stand.
I've not needed one on the road, the sidestand has so far sufficed for chain adjustments etc and in the carport (oh, for a garage!) I use a handy length of 100x100 but will admit thats a bit dodgy when the front wheel is taken off.

Interesting about the carb slide being affected by wind, maybe that airbox opening is too large? I'm about to do mine, so I might do a progressive enlargement with carefully measured guesswork and wild assumptions as to the effects of each stage.

cooneyr

6th July 2007, 11:16

The dualstar center stand is a complete joke. You would think they never even developed them!

I agree that in a garage you can make do with crates etc. I can easily adjust my chain tension and lube my chain (I still do it manually) with the side stand. Chaining tubes or fixing punctures in the wopps can be interesting with a side stand though. If there is somebody to help you or something to put the bike on then its doable but if you are on your own or nothing to put it on then you are into lying it on its side.

A center stand on a "light" bike like a DR is a bit of a "nice to have" rather than essential but I reacon they would not be that hard to make and if you are touring then would be "nice to have".

Not sure that I would use one that much but I'm keen to have ago for the sake of playing with some metal and a welder - sure beats driving a computer all week :zzzz:

Cheers R

NordieBoy

6th July 2007, 12:34

Interesting about the carb slide being affected by wind, maybe that airbox opening is too large? I'm about to do mine, so I might do a progressive enlargement with carefully measured guesswork and wild assumptions as to the effects of each stage.

Only affected if the spring is shortened (stiffened) and not spaced back out.

Have a look at what Jesse (http://www.kientech.com/DJDR650AbMod.htm) recommends for the airbox.

NordieBoy

6th July 2007, 12:36

I think it's a good thing I don't know how to weld and have no easy access to a welder.
It's safer that way.

:yes:

Transalper

6th July 2007, 12:47

Have a look at what Jesse (http://www.kientech.com/DJDR650AbMod.htm) recommends for the airbox.I just wouldn't feel confident crossing streams or rivers with a big hole in my airbox like that.

cooneyr

6th July 2007, 12:59

I think it's a good thing I don't know how to weld and have no easy access to a welder.
It's safer that way.

I never said I knew how to weld - its more like nothing Ive welded has broken while being used for its intended purpose yet.

I just wouldn't feel confident crossing streams or rivers with a big hole in my airbox like that.

Ditto - Mackley (Iron Bridge to Deniston), Brass Monkey, McDonald Downs etc etc. I'm leaving mine along thanks very much.

Cheers R

Crisis management

6th July 2007, 14:51

Have a look at what Jesse (http://www.kientech.com/DJDR650AbMod.htm) recommends for the airbox.

I've seen the Keintech stuff but have always felt a bit nervous about it. Some comments on Adv rider have suggested smaller holes or simply a second snorkel work as well. As with all these things, it's a matter of suck it and see, so I suppose I better start sucking......

far queue

6th July 2007, 22:50

NordieBoy

12th July 2007, 13:04

:woohoo: My Fly Stinger ATV boots just arrived!

Shorter than the normal Stinger MX boots (8cm - 3 straps instead of 4) and they look to have a good general purpose sole.
Should be good for work and adventuring and leaves my Gaerne MX boots for the serious stuff.

Off TradeMe for $189.

tri boy

12th July 2007, 14:40

Nice boot.:yes:

NordieBoy

12th July 2007, 17:00

Thanks, I hope I win the auction for the right one now.

warewolf

12th July 2007, 23:41

Should be good for work and adventuringReckon so, they look ideal for a long day in the saddle, plenty of grip for picking up fallen bikes in the snow.

Do they have crampon attachment points?
<IMG src=http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/28/Ski_boot_crampons.jpg>

Crisis management

13th July 2007, 08:01

Now there's an attachement I never considered! Thanks Warewolf......

I've got the "full" size version of these and althought a bit stiff for walking in are great.

Except for the minor point of waterproofing.....how come water can always get in but never drains out?

So, they need waterproofing! I'm experimenting with Nikwax TX product at the moment, that Gecko guard stuff was only Gecko shit.

NordieBoy

13th July 2007, 09:43

Now there's an attachement I never considered! Thanks Warewolf......
Swing your leg over and slice open your pack :D

Except for the minor point of waterproofing.....how come water can always get in but never drains out?
Because the water gets in through the top of the boot, not talong the sole/boot interface which is waterproof.

So, they need waterproofing! I'm experimenting with Nikwax TX product at the moment, that Gecko guard stuff was only Gecko shit.
Starting on the SnoSeal tonight and seamsealer stuff for the ummm.... thingys.

Does the bottom strap thing on your ones like falling out when you lift it up over the clip to do them up?

Crisis management

13th July 2007, 10:12

Does the bottom strap thing on your ones like falling out when you lift it up over the clip to do them up?

Can't say as I have that problem, it all seems well put together and tight rather than loose.

The water is getting in thru the front face of the boot, not down the top, so I've just tried waterproofing all of that area. The sole to boot joint seems to be ok but I might try sealing that as well.

How good are the sno seal products? I've tried the Gecko shit and Nikwax, been impressed with Nikwax so far but this is the winterless north.....

cooneyr

13th July 2007, 11:24

Reckon so, they look ideal for a long day in the saddle, plenty of grip for picking up fallen bikes in the snow.

Do they have crampon attachment points?

Hmmmm - now thats and idea. Maybe I should.......

They only just fit but I dont like the idea of the metal on the footpegs. Dont think feet would stay on pegs very long!

Cheers R

warewolf

13th July 2007, 11:25

How good are the sno seal products? I've tried the Gecko shit and Nikwax, been impressed with Nikwax so far but this is the winterless north.....Primo. I don't buy anything else, this stuff works so no need to try others.

I use the snoseal wax on leather (gloves, boots, suit patches) it's very highly rated by bushwalkers. Beeswax-based so doesn't rot things like Dubbin.

The aerosol waterproofer I've used on leather gloves, suede parts and cordura. It worked well but has been superceded by the trigger-pack which is more heavy duty. My suit gets an annual (or so) wash and re-apply with the trigger pack.

For washing I use the snoseal SportWash, use it on all high-tech micro-pore fabrics like goretex, polypropylene thermals etc etc etc. Never wash these things with normal laundry detergent, it kills them.

The snoseal stuff can be washed and reactivated a few times before it needs to be re-applied. Activation means clean and heat to 55C (low tumble dry or low iron).

If the outer of your apparel is waterproofed, it takes the load off the inner membrane layer, keeping you drier for longer. Basically if water is not beading off then it's time for treatment. The shoulders of the jacket always go first, as they are the most exposed.

warewolf

13th July 2007, 11:27

Dont think feet would stay on pegs very long!Or worse, too long!

Wolf

13th July 2007, 12:48

Hmmmm - now thats and idea. Maybe I should.......

They only just fit but I dont like the idea of the metal on the footpegs. Dont think feet would stay on pegs very long!

Cheers R
Probably wouldn't, but they might be handy carried strapped to the top of your gear - just the thing for when tramping back along the road with the jerry-can...

NordieBoy

13th July 2007, 14:20

Or worse, too long!

Foot comes off peg and puts hole in bashplate or case :D

warewolf

13th July 2007, 14:28

Foot comes off peg and puts hole in bashplate or case :DFoot comes off peg, spikes catch in spokes, rips leg off. :bye:

NordieBoy

13th July 2007, 15:42

Spike catches on branch, rips leg off.

:D

People wearing snow-spikes are not usually going all that fast though.

cooneyr

13th July 2007, 16:53

Spike catches on branch, rips leg off.

:D

People wearing snow-spikes are not usually going all that fast though.

Dont know about that. I've reached some decent speeds bum sliding back down mountains. Have to make sure you heals dont catch the surface though or its a rather unpleasant hello to the snow.

Simple things like a foot jab for balance with poons on would be kinda hard on the leg let along the macabre ideas of you lot.

Looked kinda mean though aye. Shin kicking contest anyone :D

Cheers R

warewolf

13th July 2007, 17:58

Dont know about that. I've reached some decent speeds bum sliding back down mountains. Have to make sure you heals dont catch the surface though or its a rather unpleasant hello to the snow.Ummm you're not supposed to slide if you are wearing crampons, that's the #1 rule they teach on the snowcraft courses, ain't it? That's how our lady friend Dawn got a chopper ride out last year; forgot she was wearing crampons when the non-crampon wearers in the group decided to do a bit of bum sliding. Yep, she broke her ankle and it took about 36 hours to get her off the mountain.

Mole_C

13th July 2007, 18:05

Ummm you're not supposed to slide if you are wearing crampons, that's the #1 rule they teach on the snowcraft courses, ain't it? That's how our lady friend Dawn got a chopper ride out last year; forgot she was wearing crampons when the non-crampon wearers in the group decided to do a bit of bum sliding. Yep, she broke her ankle and it took about 36 hours to get her off the mountain.

Just run and dive head first. Much safer :yes:

cooneyr

13th July 2007, 22:35

Ummm you're not supposed to slide if you are wearing crampons, that's the #1 rule they teach on the snowcraft courses, ain't it? .....

You are right but rules are meant to be broken and I've never had a problem by applying some common sense. It all depends on the snow conditions. If soft then it makes squat difference, hard on the other hand is another story. I wouldn't bum slide on hard snow cause stopping gets to interesting let alone the shredded pants.

Anyway

Cheers R

NordieBoy

15th July 2007, 19:12

The bike needed richening up a bit after the header weld went walkies and I shortened the carb spring but the step from the DJ155 jet to the 160 was too big so I got a custom jet done at about DJ157 size.
Then read on ThumperTalk about the binning of the backfire screen...
Removing that was enough to lean it off nicely :D
This also means that the DJ155 should be right for the stock pipe now.

NordieBoy

16th July 2007, 11:08

This just turned up at the door, wonder what it could be?

cooneyr

16th July 2007, 11:29

This just turned up at the door, wonder what it could be?

Boing slurp boing slurp :D

tri boy

16th July 2007, 13:01

Boing slurp boing slurp :D

Skippy giving head.:shutup:

NordieBoy

16th July 2007, 19:30

Read it and weep you sagged out lusers Mwaaa ha ha ha :devil2:

Sorry about that, don't know what came over me :innocent:

tri boy

16th July 2007, 19:41

The Dr will be able to leap tall rocks in a single bound. (and throw your arse over the bars if your dampening is shot).:shutup:
Seriously though, nice kit.:yes:

warewolf

16th July 2007, 21:01

Read it and weep you sagged out lusers Mwaaa ha ha ha :devil2:Ah, love it!

cooneyr

16th July 2007, 21:38

The Dr will be able to leap tall rocks in a single bound. (and throw your arse over the bars if your dampening is shot).:shutup:
Seriously though, nice kit.:yes:

Agreed. Make sure that the shock rebound damping isn't overwhelmed cause its pretty lack lustre even with the stock shock. New valve stack maybe?

Cheers R

NordieBoy

16th July 2007, 22:24

The rebound damping will be a bit brisk but still better than original.
The rear spring is on, the ride height is set and it makes the high beam look like a dip :D

Much nicer through the washboards on the inside of the gravel corners.
Now to get some help doing the front end.
Hmmm, I knew there was a reason I didn't charge the workshop manager at the Suzuki shop last time I fixed his computer :D

:scooter:

Winter

16th July 2007, 22:34

Hey NordieBoy.

Just realised I know you from another forum... I'm MattL from POTN.. I started that crazy ass 30,000 post thread heh.

Matt.

NordieBoy

17th July 2007, 08:59

Hey NordieBoy.

Just realised I know you from another forum... I'm MattL from POTN.. I started that crazy ass 30,000 post thread heh.

Matt.

Obviously recognised the quality of my photos :innocent:

My little thread is on the way there, just need to get SS interested in bikes and it'd be away :shutup:

clint640

17th July 2007, 11:43

Read it and weep you sagged out lusers Mwaaa ha ha ha :devil:

Is that the stuff they call 'aftermarket suspension' ? I'd heard some bikes need it, it's a bit of a foreign concept to us KTM owners though.

:D

She should go well with all that set up properly, you must be running out of things to bling on that DR now...

Clint

cooneyr

17th July 2007, 11:51

Is that the stuff they call 'aftermarket suspension' ? I'd heard some bikes need it, it's a bit of a foreign concept to us KTM owners though.

:D

I'm sure my large arse would require new springs and associated valving even for a KTM :whistle:

Just one of the reasons why I stick with the DR cause I'm gona get stuck for suspension upgrades either way. Oh and KTM LC4's cost more too :D

Cheers R

Transalper

17th July 2007, 13:37

... you must be running out of things to bling on that DR now...

Clint
He hasn't got a fork brace yet, I have confirmation that mine is in the post.
I have a great DR650 wobble inducing tire in my garage to test it out with too, you know, one that walks around bends and makes you button off in shingle. Funny but it is great on the Transalp, steady as on that.

NordieBoy

17th July 2007, 13:57

Is that the stuff they call 'aftermarket suspension' ? I'd heard some bikes need it, it's a bit of a foreign concept to us KTM owners though.

Well, that and smoothness :D

NordieBoy

17th July 2007, 14:03

Only got suspension valving, more betterer lighting, fork brace, lower pegs, thicker bashplate and hydraulic clutch to go...

Should be done by next week :drinknsin

NordieBoy

17th July 2007, 19:06

Well one thing I don't like...

No more going seated over the speed bumps down Beatsons Road at 70kph without my bum coming off the seat :(

Back to jumping them like I used to on the Nordie.

Mole_C

17th July 2007, 20:10

Hows your speedo going? Im looking at getting one from their site. Looking at the 3150 which has a fuel gauge :yes: Would it be easy to install or complicated since it doesn't already have 1?

NordieBoy

17th July 2007, 20:32

Complicated as it dosn't got one.

I like the simplicity of my one but wouldn't mind a TrailTech Vapor which also does engine temp.
I wouldn't get the extra holder with the indicators all around it as it takes up too much room on the DR dash.

Transalper

17th July 2007, 21:21

...Looking at the 3150 which has a fuel gauge :yes: Would it be easy to install or complicated since it doesn't already have 1?

Complicated as it dosn't got one....Yes, as far as i can tell the speedo only has a fuel level display, you would hook it up to your existing sensor/sender unit in the tank, but as Nordie says the DR doesn't have a sensor/sender unit in its tank. So you'd have to get one of those from somewhere and then I'd hate to imagine the problems of making something like that fit and work properly.

Mole_C

17th July 2007, 21:34

Damn, thought that would be the case. Oh well. Will still be nice to have a tacho and clock :yes:

NordieBoy

17th July 2007, 21:52

Yes, as far as i can tell the speedo only has a fuel level display, you would hook it up to your existing sensor/sender unit in the tank, but as Nordie says the DR doesn't have a sensor/sender unit in its tank. So you'd have to get one of those from somewhere and then I'd hate to imagine the problems of making something like that fit and work properly.

The best fuel gauge would be your one :D

NordieBoy

17th July 2007, 21:55

Tacho, clock, 2 trip meters (1 for trip and 1 for fuel), hour meter, max revs, permenant backlight, fits on the existing speedo mount with a tiny mod.

All nice :yes:

far queue

17th July 2007, 22:25

The best fuel gauge would be your one :DThat's what I was thinking, he's got a fuel gauge - the same sort I've got :whistle:

Transalper

17th July 2007, 23:21

mm... the same sort, just a slightly different brand and a little smaller.

NordieBoy

18th July 2007, 07:56

mm... the same sort, just a slightly different brand and a little smaller.

Hey, you've got a screen on the back of your oil cooler...

NordieBoy

18th July 2007, 10:12

Thought it'd be a good time for a re-cap.

Performance enhancing...
- Braided front brake line.
- DJ kit, 160 Main, Needle 3rd from top.
- Drilled carb slide.
- Shortened carb spring.
- Ground header weld.
- SuperTrapp IDS with 10 discs.
- Opened top on airbox.
- Removed backfire screen.
- 14t front sprocket.
- Eibach springs front and rear.
- ScottOiler.

Comfort enhancing...
- KX bend fat bars with risers.
- ScottOiler Cruise Control.
- Givi screen.
- Corbin seat with mods.
- IMS tank.
- Alloy bark busters.
- Extra 55W flood light.
- Stebel Magnum 132dB horn.
- IRC GP21 front tyre (6200km so far).
- Mitas E07 rear tyre (11000km so far).
- Ventura pack/rack.

Style enhancing...
- Acewell speedo.
- Kiwi Biker with custom helmet.

Next...
- Rim locks at the next tyre change.
- Magura hydraulic clutch?

Wolf

18th July 2007, 12:51

mm... the same sort, just a slightly different brand and a little smaller.
Nice fuel gauge.

Mine is very easy to read - if the petcock is on "reserve", get to a fecking garage soonest...

NordieBoy

18th July 2007, 22:00

Went to the eastern end of the Maitai Dam this afternoon for a final ride with the stock front springs and to compare tomorrow when I put the new ones in.

NordieBoy

19th July 2007, 19:00

Well it works.
I'd like a bit more pre-load but I did it according to spec.
The front only dives slightly under braking and I'm going to have to adjust my lights again.
The ride is firmer but more compliant, the wheels follow the terrain without skipping.
This has meant it's more comfortable to stand in the rough stuff now dammit so I'm going to have to lower the pegs soon.
The front doesn't hint at bottoming out when landing after a little almost-wheelie off a bump.
Tracks better in the gravel too and felt fine in the fresh gravel on the Pelorus side of the Maungatapu on those nice farmland corners.
On the seal the most noticeable thing is the lack of weight transfer when accelerating and braking, it goes and stops without exaggerated squatting/diving.

The front tyre is still sweet but the rear is getting to be a road tyre but you only notice it accelerating in clay or loose gravel so it'll probably stay on for a few thousand more yet.

I like :Punk:

Crisis management

29th July 2007, 20:08

So, the suspension was worth it then....
I have to admit I am sick of the front end dive under braking, I've become a brake on the straight rider rather than being able to carry the braking well into the corner as I am used too (sports bike upbringing...deviant I know, but shit happens). Mind you, I've finally got used to trail braking and that has been a lot more effective for my somewhat dubious "style" of riding.

Was the back end worth doing? I can see a clear advantage in the front but the back seems ok for me (I'm only 67kg's and the spring is at it's tightest). As an aside, I am considering the cheats way first and changing the fork oil for a heavier weight! :shit:

I finally got round to doing the Dynojet kit etc, and on the brief burst up the driveway it's certainly running richer! I should be able to get a ride in tomorrow so I'll report back then.

NordieBoy

29th July 2007, 20:53

Back end was worth it too.
Coming over a bump and being able to pop the front up at will without the back just soaking it all up.
Go over a series of bumps the the suspension responds to them all.

Just got an e-mail back from Jesse this morning recommending 10w in the front for the heavier springs, which is the stock weight.
Some use 15w but I'd think that'd be better on the road than trail.

As an aside, I just did my first oil change on it today :o

warewolf

29th July 2007, 21:45

As an aside, I just did my first oil change on it today :oThought you were waiting until you were able to race it in VMX?!

Transalper

30th July 2007, 12:15

Fork brace has arrived, so yay i get to start trying it out on the weekend.

NordieBoy

30th July 2007, 18:20

Why yes, I do hate you.

:D

The colour isn't right, it'll clash...

NordieBoy

30th July 2007, 18:22

Thought you were waiting until you were able to race it in VMX?!

Oi!
It's not that bad.
Just 14000 odd km + whatever the previous owner did...

Transalper

30th July 2007, 20:01

Oi!
It's not that bad.
Just 14000 odd km + whatever the previous owner did...

Are you serious... talking about between oil changes? If so I'd say that's very naughty.

NordieBoy

30th July 2007, 20:34

Very naughty.
Oil was black with no debris.

Now my bash plate is held on with plastic zip-ties it should be easier to do.
Going to set up a 5000km schedule now...

cooneyr

30th July 2007, 21:16

Very naughty.
Oil was black with no debris.

Now my bash plate is held on with plastic zip-ties it should be easier to do.
Going to set up a 5000km schedule now...

Ahem just a little bit naughty.

Time to make a hole in your bashplate for access to the oil drain bung?

Cheers R

warewolf

30th July 2007, 21:56

It's not that bad....... ah forget it, it's already been said!

:spanking:

NordieBoy

31st July 2007, 14:35

I never used to look at the odometer 'till this bike.
My brother reminds me we did an oil change when I got it.

That's the problem with 4 bikes.
Always doing oil changes and not writing down which bike was done when.
This is the first bike where I've got a spreadsheet of things I've done to it along with the date and odo.

One thing, the DR is sooo much easier and less messy to do an oil change on than the Nordie.

NordieBoy

31st July 2007, 14:37

Anyone have any problems with the stock chain stretching unevenly?

warewolf

31st July 2007, 14:50

That's the problem with 4 bikes.
Always doing oil changes and not writing down which bike was done when.
This is the first bike where I've got a spreadsheet of things I've done to it along with the date and odo.Yup, documentation is useful. I've got mine set up with conditional formatting (colours) to show when service items are approaching and due. Some of the $/100km calculations are interesting, too.

Way back when, I'd worked out that for every dollar spent on fuel on my CBX250, it cost me a dollar in servicing (tyres/chains/oil etc) and another dollar in fixed costs (rego, insurance). Sad but true!

Scotty/mickeyboy had their oil change noted on some gaffer tape under the seat... low-tech effective solution.

NordieBoy

31st July 2007, 19:55

Looks like it's costing about $0.16 per km so far including everything except purchase price.

warewolf

31st July 2007, 23:52

$21.75 / 100km for the 640 includes everything (1290L of PULP) except purchase or insurance. Also includes the first two services which were dealer jobs (quadruples the cost) and three times as many engine oil & filter changes as you do...:dodge:

Take out the petrol and it is $14.05 / 100km. Putting it another way, it costs nearly twice as much in servicing costs as it does in fuel. The single biggest service expense being tyres at roughly $5.50 / 100km (the cheap Kenda offset the expensive TKC80), followed by chain & sprockets at about half that.

NordieBoy

1st August 2007, 09:15

and three times as many engine, oil & filter changes as you do...:dodge:

How many times have you changed your engine? :shit:

Petrol looks to be about 8c per km and the rest (inc all farkling) is another 8c.
Will go up at the first chain/sprocket change though.

Crisis management

1st August 2007, 09:36

You two are all a bit frightening!

I just ride the bike and try and not fall off, I didn't know I had to record the details as well! :bye:

cooneyr

1st August 2007, 09:42

How many times have you changed your engine? :shit:

Petrol looks to be about 8c per km and the rest (inc all farkling) is another 8c.
Will go up at the first chain/sprocket change though.

I'm curious - whats the cost of a set of sprockets and a decent chain? I'm probably up for a drive train refresh around Christmas time. Thinking about going with a factory XF 650 (Freewind) 43 tooth rear sprocket (DR stock is 41) and factory DR650 15 tooth front with a DID V or VM2 (Not sure which yet) X-ring chain.

Front sproket ~$40?
Rear Sproket ~$100?
Chain ~$250?
Total ~$400

Cheers R

warewolf

1st August 2007, 09:51

How many times have you changed your engine? :shit:Because the oil & filters are changed frequently:love:, none; long may it continue.

Petrol looks to be about 8c per kmsnap!

and the rest (inc all farkling) is another 8c.
Will go up at the first chain/sprocket change though.Biggest difference is tyres, your Mitas E-07 at what is it now, 12,000km? has lasted 3x my best so far - and it was probably cheaper.

Interesting that the DR-Z250 ran at $41.82 / 100km without fuel costs. But the DR-Z was also trail-ridden; road/trail is more intense than road/adventure.

NordieBoy

1st August 2007, 10:14

I'm curious - whats the cost of a set of sprockets and a decent chain? I'm probably up for a drive train refresh around Christmas time. Thinking about going with a factory XF 650 (Freewind) 43 tooth rear sprocket (DR stock is 41) and factory DR650 15 tooth front with a DID V or VM2 (Not sure which yet) X-ring chain.

Front sproket ~$40?
Rear Sproket ~$100?
Chain ~$250?
Total ~$400

Cheers R

I'm tempted to go to a 520 setup at the chain/sprocket change.
Cheaper and bigger choice of sprockets (but I'd still go with 14t front and 42t rear :innocent:).

And if you hadn't noticed, I like changing things :D

Stock front sprocket is about $30

warewolf

1st August 2007, 10:23

I'm curious - whats the cost of a set of sprockets and a decent chain?I wish I didn't know, I've replaced three sets so far this year! It never rains, but it pours...

KTM steel sprockets are around $30/$75 Fr/Rr. Chain Gang superlight steel rears are around $135-ish but seem to last forever. 18,000km on the 640 and it's being retired (maybe temporarily) so it doesn't chew out the new chain; looks about 3/4 worn, hasn't rapidly crapped out with the old chain, never seen a sprocket survive this before. In fact I installed the KTM Alloy 42T for the Dusty Butt, it did 750km on the 3/4-worn chain and is utterly rooted.

From reading on the interweb thingy, I would put the chains in this order of decreasing quality:

RK GXW
DID VM2
RK XSO (or maybe = with the VM2)
DID VM

The RK XSO is within 10% of the performance of the RK GXW, but more than that cheaper, so (hopefully) will return lower $/100km figure.

RK seem to be much better priced than DID. RK XSO 520x110L chain $155, cheap for such a good chain. The DID VM 520x120L was $185 3 years ago. 525 sizes should be dearer but basically mirror these differences.

DID VM2 530x114L chain (for the Triumph) $310 :shit: but the RK XSO wasn't available... grrr. I expect to get 100,000km out of that chain on Chain Gang sprockets with a ScottOiler. Bit of an unnecessary upfront investment.

I should stop now. :sick:

Crisis management

1st August 2007, 10:37

cooneyr

1st August 2007, 10:48

From reading on the interweb thingy, I would put the chains in this order of decreasing quality:

RK GXW
DID VM2
RK XSO (or maybe = with the VM2)
DID VM

The RK XSO is within 10% of the performance of the RK GXW, but more than that cheaper, so (hopefully) will return lower $/100km figure.

RK seem to be much better priced than DID. RK XSO 520x110L chain $155, cheap for such a good chain. The DID VM 520x120L was $185 3 years ago. 525 sizes should be dearer but basically mirror these differences.

Interesting. Hadnt looked at RK chains but currently have an EK which according to the notes in the manual I got with the bike will last about 10k although I suspect that is with the original rear sprocket which has done 18k and is just starting to look sad.

Apparently the stock zuki steel sprockets are pretty decent (this is coming from the yanks on the the Yahoo DR650 group) and for the $ they are worth sticking with over after market. They don't ever mention chain gain sprockets so will probably come down to price on the day between CG one and the zuki sprocket.

I'm defiantly going for the 15/43 combo for the next haul so plan on sticking with the 525 chain. Don't really see much point in going smaller cause the sprockets I'm after are easily sourced. Not worried about the $ for the 525 vs the 520 but would rather never get caught out with a broken chain (I must be paranoid as I carry extra links and clip joiners and a chain breaker). :shutup:

Cheers R

_Shrek_

1st August 2007, 10:53

You can happily run 525 chain to match the suzuki front sprockets with 520 rear sprockets for more choice.
The only difference is the width between the chain plates so the rear sprocket has a bit more space around it. I've only got a couple of thousand Km's on this arrangement but all seems to be working fine.

How effective are Scott oilers coping with sand and dust build up on the chain? I can appreciate their effectiveness in extending chain life but don't want to end up with a chain full of sand from some of the beach / woodhill rides around here.

hey Cm i put a scott oiler on along with a new chain & sprockets & only got 9k out of them they where completly shaged
i found only one side was getting the oil for some reason it did not lube the off side even when oiler was turned right up
talked to Phil @ dirt action also found the same on his KTM... so i brought a dubble feed and put that on so far have got 17k chain & sprockets not even half worn
when its realy dusty i just turn it up works in sand too

Transalper

1st August 2007, 12:28

My new favourate sprocket setup is the freewind 43 rear and DR 15 front. Still got all 525 sizing that way.
My Scotty has a duel injector to oil both sides, J's one has only a single injector but then she doesn't get hers as dirty as i get mine.
When in the crap turn the scotty up, it makes more splatter but also kinda washes the chain. I have a lube tube (extra capacity) hiddin in there somewhere so i haven't had to refill the thing in a while.

clint640

1st August 2007, 12:33

Scotty/mickeyboy had their oil change noted on some gaffer tape under the seat... low-tech effective solution.

I just do mine at even 5000km increments, odo is heading for 40k at present therefore almost time for a service...

Cost per km??? I don't want to know! - I spend 90% of my money on booze, women & motorsport, the other 10% gets wasted.

Cheers
Clint

warewolf

1st August 2007, 14:06

Apparently the stock zuki steel sprockets are pretty decent (this is coming from the yanks on the the Yahoo DR650 group) and for the $ they are worth sticking with over after market. They don't ever mention chain gain sprockets so will probably come down to price on the day between CG one and the zuki sprocket.Chain Gang are an Aussie manufacturer and are hardly known in the USA or indeed most elsewhere. Legendary stuff in Aus, most safari-type competitors use them. The suzi product will only be mid quality at best, CG are top quality and also lighter.

sticking with the 525 chain.I wasn't suggesting you change, just highlighting that you will probably pay more than the numbers I quoted for 520 size. BUT a 525 is overkill on the DR650; a modern high-end 520 will likely be stronger than the spec for the bike so you wouldn't have any reliability issues.

cooneyr

1st August 2007, 14:18

I wasn't suggesting you change, just highlighting that you will probably pay more than the numbers I quoted for 520 size. BUT a 525 is overkill on the DR650; a modern high-end 520 will likely be stronger than the spec for the bike so you wouldn't have any reliability issues.

Only thing is though where do you get a "good" 520 15 tooth front for the DR from? Maybe I need to do some investigating. CG don't do fronts do they (web site is down at the moment)?

Cheers R

Transalper

1st August 2007, 15:42

...BUT a 525 is overkill on the DR650...so one might expect it to last well then.

NordieBoy

1st August 2007, 16:19

Only thing is though where do you get a "good" 520 15 tooth front for the DR from? Maybe I need to do some investigating. CG don't do fronts do they (web site is down at the moment)?

Cheers R

Just order a front sprocket for any pre '96 DR 600/650 ('85 till '95).
This bike came stock with a 520 chain. Choice in 14-15-16 teeth.
On the rear you can use sprockets for a '93 DR 350 or from a current Gas Gas 250/400/450 EC or an '02-'05 Husky TE.
Choice from 41 to 56 teeth.

:scooter:

NordieBoy

1st August 2007, 16:22

How effective are Scott oilers coping with sand and dust build up on the chain? I can appreciate their effectiveness in extending chain life but don't want to end up with a chain full of sand from some of the beach / woodhill rides around here.

It's a light oil and just flicks off with any debris.
Give it a wash and it takes all the crap off with it.
It only puts a drip per 30s or so onto the chain.

warewolf

1st August 2007, 17:57

CG don't do fronts do they (web site is down at the moment)?Use this link (http://www.chaingang.com.au/index.php). Their default page is pointed to an old update message.

They make rear sprockets and brake discs, on-sell front sprockets, chains and scottoilers.

Fronts work harder than rears (roughly 3x if that's the gearing you run) so plan to replace the front at least once before it takes out the chain and rear sprocket prematurely.

Transalper

2nd August 2007, 16:26

The Superbrace... first thing i noticed was the brace hits the bottom edges of the mudguard so looks like i'll be giving up my 15mm front of bike shortening by sliding the forks back down in the clamps until at stock height.
Thinking about messing with the guard, would have to cut the edges just enough so that the brace can almost hit the inside top of the guard instead of its edges. But that would be cutting about 30 to 35mm up in to the guard. Then of course i'd need to strengthen or brace the guard to compensate. Don't really want to replace the guard with a different style but might be force to look around for options.
The gaiters are way too long now too.

I suspect by reading some reviews that it might be more a case of you don't know what you've got until it's gone with the brace. That is I might not notice much if any improvement in handling from the install but if i later remove it then i might notice every thing suddenly feels like shit.

NordieBoy

2nd August 2007, 18:57

Hmmm...
Same feelings here.
The DR handles fine with the stock springs and feels very different but fine with the new ones.
If I went back to stock I think I'd be cursing the spongyness.

If you want to get rid of the brace though... :innocent:

Transalper

2nd August 2007, 19:18

It's a 10 minute job to stick it on so maybe if ya want to try it out for a day sometime we might be up for that.. actually more than that once we do something with the fender.
Don't think i'd be selling it once i've cut notches in my guard, i think i'd keep it just because.
Will price a new guard or two tomorrow, and visit DAS to hear their opinion on the fitting issues.

Crisis management

3rd August 2007, 09:03

cooneyr

3rd August 2007, 09:20

There are some shorter front guards available for the DR (I have no idea where from) which I read about on adv rider. Primarily their use was to reduce high speed wobbles generated by the friggin big thing that sticks out the front. I recall seeing these in NZ but it was some time ago.

Anywho....what I mean is that there is an afternmarket guard that you can butcher without spending a fortune.

When I crashed my DR250 Gerbel way back when I got a Acerbis front guard which was a universal fit as you had to drill holes in it yourself (piece of cake). It was about $60 from Pitlane and was a wider and longer version than the "normal" DR version which was almost exactly the same as the Gerbel's original. Buggered if I can remember what it was called though.

Cheers R

NordieBoy

3rd August 2007, 09:59

warewolf

3rd August 2007, 14:21

Then of course i'd need to strengthen or brace the guard to compensate.

Primarily their use was to reduce high speed wobbles generated by the friggin big thing that sticks out the front.

Fender brace (http://www.acerbis.com/p149_universal/acces_fender.html) should sort both issues.

cooneyr

9th August 2007, 10:22

Back to sprocket ratios. I've been playing with some numbers to get an idea of the effect of various ratios. I though others might be interested in seeing some calcs. I've run the 15/41 ratio and like it for open gravel road bashing i.e. molesworth and seal riding but find it a little high for tight and steep riding. My bike came with a 14 tooth CS sprocket so I've been playing with that for a while now and while it is nice for the tighter stuff I don't like so much it for the on road/molesworth riding.

Given that the two ratios I know about are 15/41 and 14/41 I've put together a spreadsheet (image of attached) that calcs ratios of various options and then the percentage change from stock and also the percentage of the 14/41 effect.

Personally I want to stick with larger sprockets as they wear the chain less and weight difference is not that important to me. Also I want to achieve about 50% of the 15/41 to 14/41 effect I think i.e. I want the last column to be about 50%. The closest two possible options are therefore either 4 or 7 on the attachment. This is 15/43 or 16/45.

Transalper and I had talked about the 15/43 before as Suzuki make a 43 rear for the freewind that bolts straight on (TA has one). I understand that a 16 CS sprocket is available as Far Que has one. Rear sprocket options are limitless thanks to the chain gang in ausi.

So defiantly going to give 15/43 ago when I replace the drive train in November.

Hope all this dribble makes sense :D

Cheers R

NordieBoy

9th August 2007, 12:11

Hmmm, the US one should come with a 42t rear as opposed to the Aus/NZ spec 41t rear.

cooneyr

9th August 2007, 12:13

Hmmm, the US one should come with a 42t rear as opposed to the Aus/NZ spec 41t rear.

Pretty sure it is a 41 but I'll check tonight. Your never going to figure out what spec my bike is LOL.

R

Transalper

9th August 2007, 14:32

Go too big at the rear and you have to mess with the chain guide, also bigger on the front may see your top chain roller vanish as mine has with a previous owner.
In my case i suspect the roller broke off while bottoming the suspension with the bike in the factory lowered position while only having a 14/43 setup.

I doo like 15/43 for general adventuring and highway use.

cooneyr

9th August 2007, 14:39

Go too big at the rear and you have to mess with the chain guide, also bigger on the front may see your top chain roller vanish as mine has with a previous owner.
In my case i suspect the roller broke off while bottoming the suspension with the bike in the factory lowered position while only having a 14/43 setup.

Thats another reason why I like the 15/43 ratio. Same size front at standard and 43 rear works (as you know :yes:). 16 front and greater and 44 rear and greater were just playing to see what the ratios are.

Cheers R

NordieBoy

9th August 2007, 19:20

I think 45t rear is the biggest you can go with the stock rear chain guide.

NordieBoy

9th August 2007, 19:22

In my case i suspect the roller broke off while bottoming the suspension with the bike in the factory lowered position while only having a 14/43 setup.

If the roller breaks off then it leaves a large hole in the frame.
I've pulled mine before it has a chance to do any damage.

Although I could stand on it in the shed one day and arse over...

Crisis management

9th August 2007, 20:00

My bike had a 46 tooth rear when I got it, no way was the chain guide going to fit with that arrangement (lower plate had been removed from the guide). I fitted a 43 tooth and that allows the plate to be refitted, there is about 3mm clearance from the plate with the chain correctly tensioned.
You should be able to go to 44 teeth and still retain the plate but it would be the limit IMO.

cooneyr

9th August 2007, 20:37

Transalper

9th August 2007, 21:03

Jessie (http://www.kientech.com/DR650ProdList.htm) sells an after market adjustable guide (http://www.kientech.com/DR650AdjustableChainGuide.htm) to suit bigger sprockets... and I know all about the hole left when the roller breaks off, do you want a photo of it?

warewolf

9th August 2007, 23:21

Personally I want to stick with larger sprockets as they wear the chain less and weight difference is not that important to me.Sorry but that one's not an issue. :D I've seen the numbers; some fella sat down with a 'puter and did the maths on the smaller sprockets, it was minuscule numbers that got lost in the other variables.

Smaller sprockets mean typically less weight<sup>1</sup>, less inertia in the drive train, a shorter and therefore lighter chain... and on your bike, going bigger has issues with the chain guide as already mentioned. Note that going too small on the front can cause chain guide issues on the front of the swingarm, too.

[1] 48T KTM steel sprocket is lighter than their 42T.

cooneyr

10th August 2007, 07:25

Smaller sprockets mean typically less weight<sup>1</sup>[1] 48T KTM steel sprocket is lighter than their 42T.
What by 20 grams which is the weight of a couple of culmps of mud on the swing arm???? :innocent: I suspect this falls in the same category as you small vs larger sprockets.

... and on your bike, going bigger has issues with the chain guide as already mentioned. Note that going too small on the front can cause chain guide issues on the front of the swingarm, too.

When I say bigger I mean 15 front instead of 14 and 43 instead of 41 rear - size difference 2/10ths of bugger all. 15 is better on the front for reasons that you mention and to get the gearing I want I therefore have to have a 43 rear which fits. I'd just rather have a 15/43 than 14/41 for the minuscule life improvement, the chain guide issue on the front of the swing arm and the ratio it achieves.

Cheers R

warewolf

10th August 2007, 12:05

What by 20 grams which is the weight of a couple of culmps of mud on the swing arm???? :innocent: I suspect this falls in the same category as you small vs larger sprockets.Yeah it does, but the numbers I saw on the wear (ie stress) differences were like 0.0005% or something similarly stupid. 20g from 200g is 10%... 5 orders of magnitude difference, so I'd rate it as more significant.

Mud on the swingarm doesn't rotate; it only gets accelerated in one direction. And you don't carry that mud with you everywhere that you go. In the bicycling world they have a saying, "an ounce on the wheel is worth a pound on the frame." You'd have to accelerate the extra weight of the drive train before you can apply that to moving the mud.

Hey I don't think you'll have any issues with the gearing at all. I'm just trying to get you to think about it! :innocent: :D

cooneyr

10th August 2007, 12:28

Mud on the swingarm doesn't rotate; it only gets accelerated in one direction. And you don't carry that mud with you everywhere that you go. In the bicycling world they have a saying, "an ounce on the wheel is worth a pound on the frame." You'd have to accelerate the extra weight of the drive train before you can apply that to moving the mud.

Hey I don't think you'll have any issues with the gearing at all. I'm just trying to get you to think about it! :innocent: :D

This is all good stuff but if I'm are going to start worrying about 20 grams of extra sprocket weight then I should uses a 520 chain instead of a 525 but lets not start that discussion again. Go the agricultural i.e. over, engineering :Punk:

Thanks for the devils advocating. LOL

Cheers R

warewolf

10th August 2007, 12:53

This is all good stuff but if I'm are going to start worrying about 20 grams of extra sprocket weight then I should uses a 520 chain instead of a 525 but lets not start that discussion again. Go the agricultural i.e. over, engineering :Punk:Indeed.

For most of us, body & mind - physical and mental training :apumpin: - are the source of the best performance gains.

Crisis management

10th August 2007, 13:46

Indeed.

For most of us, body & mind - physical and mental training :apumpin: - are the source of the best performance gains.

Rubbish, it's beer. :beer:

NordieBoy

10th August 2007, 14:23

I'd just rather have a 15/43 than 14/41 for the minuscule life improvement, the chain guide issue on the front of the swing arm and the ratio it achieves.

And it lets you use 14/43 as well without changing the chain for climbing out of ditches :D

NordieBoy

10th August 2007, 19:21

First test of the handlebar mounted ATC2K.
Some of you will recognise the (surprise surprise) start of the Maungatapu :D

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Transalper

10th August 2007, 19:44

....Some of you will recognise the (surprise surprise) start of the Maungatapu :D
...Bull shit, I may have only done the Maungatapu once so far, but I clearly remember it didn't look like that.
It was much much darker and had these little red lights to follow.:shit:

NordieBoy

10th August 2007, 19:59

Bull shit, I may have only done the Maungatapu once so far, but I clearly remember it didn't look like that.
It was much much darker and had these little red lights to follow.:shit:

Well it's pretty dark going up the first slope until the camera wakes up to the change in the light :D

I think I'll try 320x200@15fps next time - 3h 34m of recording.

Transalper

10th August 2007, 20:25

I got to do the Maungatapu after the sun comes up sometime.

So I think I've done the best I can do on installing the Superbrace.

I bought a UFO after market DRZ400 mudguard for $40 from Superior. The Yellow is a good match too, but it is longer at the back and has no vents their which the stock one had. I'll see how it goes, maybe drill some holes later. Priced a Suzuki original DR650 front guard and it was $154 overnight delivery.

Went for a metal fender brace from Pitlane $25 although had been told they might break later with metal fatigue in the fold. But i liked the look more than the plastic version.

Also got Forkskins from Superior, about $60.

Then today i got me hands dirty and did it.
I cut about 30 to 40mm up in to the new mudguard, thats how far it needed so as the brace body and sides all meet the mudguard about the same time if bottoming.
Had to slot the fender brace mounting holes ever so slightly.
I dropped the forks out to remove the gators. Wanted to swap the front wheel for my roady one anyway so removing the wheel was half that job done there.
Slapped it all together and the final result looks like I still lose a couple of cm clearance. With the front wheel off the ground I measured top of the brace to underside of the mudguard where the two will meet and looks to have only 215mm which is still less than the full travel is supposed to be.
So i still expect to potentially be able to bottom the brace out against the mudguard before the suspension stops it but at least the wheel can not lock with this setup.
Heres some pictures, now all I want to do is give it a good field test or two.. or three or..

1- back half of the brace sitting in place, you can see where the clearance has gone.

2- gators removed, forkskins on and clamped top and botton to hopefully keep out any crap.

3- new mudguard with its slots in it sitting over the Superbrace.

4 and 5- comparing to Js stock DR but hers is in the lowered position.

6 my one in all its latest state.

NordieBoy

10th August 2007, 20:57

One way to check would be to undo the fork caps, remove the pre-load spacer and slowly push the wheel up as far as it could go.
I cant remember how close mine got to the guard when I did this whilst measuring the oil level for the new springs.

Transalper

10th August 2007, 21:03

that pushes the springs out the top, is that right?
If so then you are not taking in to account that the springs take up space and so by releasing them your suspension will travel further than it could when you are riding it.

Good thing i'm a light weight, i'll be trying to bottom it out on the road on Sunday. Just going to hit a big speed bump while on brakes should let me know if it's going to be an issue. Might have to move new springs up the priority list.
The old transalp only got 200mm travel, never bottomed that anyway.

pete376403

10th August 2007, 21:16

Probably not - your forks should be hitting the bump stops before the springs are coil bound.

pete376403

10th August 2007, 21:18

This is all good stuff but if I'm are going to start worrying about 20 grams of extra sprocket weight then I should uses a 520 chain instead of a 525 but lets not start that discussion again. Go the agricultural i.e. over, engineering :Punk:

Thanks for the devils advocating. LOL

Cheers R
Have a good shit before going riding - gets rid of weight and makes you feel better

NordieBoy

10th August 2007, 21:55

Good thing i'm a light weight, i'll be trying to bottom it out on the road on Sunday. Just going to hit a big speed bump while on brakes should let me know if it's going to be an issue. Might have to move new springs up the priority list.
The old transalp only got 200mm travel, never bottomed that anyway.

If you can, take one of the skins off and put a zip-tie around the fork tube.
Good for seeing how much travel you use.

Transalper

10th August 2007, 22:29

too late now, removing the skins involves dropping the fork all the way out again. Not going to do that, i only just got it all together.

NordieBoy

10th August 2007, 22:56

Smear grease over the top of the brace and see if it gets on the guard?

NordieBoy

12th August 2007, 11:56

Handlebar mounted and taken at 320x240@15fps.

A day out with the Wolf going through...
The Moutere, Kelling Road, Rosedale Hill, Orinoco, West Bank, Grahame Valley, Mt Arthur, Jacobs Ladder, Thorpe, Dovedale Hill, Pig Valley, Wiroa Gorge, etc.

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cooneyr

13th August 2007, 13:20

Bull shit, I may have only done the Maungatapu once so far, but I clearly remember it didn't look like that.
It was much much darker and had these little red lights to follow.:shit:

Dont worry I'm sure we can do something about this TA.

Nice vid Nordie but why did you stop at the head of the lake? Not want to do the "scary steep, loose, rocky section" :bleh::dodge: :D

Cheers R

NordieBoy

13th August 2007, 13:45

The "scary steep, loose, rocky section" is just gravelly (very rough gravel though) and not so rough now.

They've filled in most of the rougher bits of the track with chip.

I only went that far because of the "I'll only be about 10mins" as I left home... :o

cooneyr

13th August 2007, 13:49

warewolf

13th August 2007, 14:12

Oh one of "those" rides.And one of "those" 10 minutes... takes me that long to get to the gravel.

Hope the Mangatapu is not to boring now??Never! The track seems to continually change, plus there are many, many side-trips that can be much more technical.

NordieBoy

13th August 2007, 14:30

Hope the Mangatapu is not to boring now??

Just faster :D

NordieBoy

13th August 2007, 14:32

many, many side-trips that can be much more technical.

Especially with the rear tyres we're running.

Mmmm clay... :rofl:

cooneyr

13th August 2007, 15:07

Especially with the rear tyres we're running.

Mmmm clay... :rofl:

Dunno what you are talking about. I did the pylons at Xmas time 06 and it was a piece of cake. Harden up you nelson wimps. LOL :dodge:

I recon you should take on the mudstond hill climb near the top of the Sharland road. HAHAHAHEHEHE (evil narsty laugh). First time I tried it was as a novice RMX rider and caned myself by falling uphill of the bike. Is that what high siding is LOL?

Cheers R

warewolf

13th August 2007, 17:10

Dunno what you are talking about. I did the pylons at Xmas time 06 and it was a piece of cake. Harden up you nelson wimps. LOL :dodge:On slicks? My rear tyre is looking like a cut slick, it's now sliding on the tarseal without provocation. :shit: Nordie is going for the I-can-run-it-down-to-the-canvas-if-I-wanna award, aiming for billiard-ball smoothness.

I recon you should take on the mudstond hill climb near the top of the Sharland road. HAHAHAHEHEHE (evil narsty laugh). First time I tried it was as a novice RMX rider and caned myself by falling uphill of the bike. Is that what high siding is LOL?I'm up for that, you'll have to point it out (on a map, ha ha!) I'm not sure that I've taken the 200EXC into anything up there trickier than I've taken the 640 on dual-purpose tyres, but I know a few spots I don't want to take either bike without someone else along to help push/drag/ring 111.

cooneyr

13th August 2007, 18:24

On slicks? My rear tyre is looking like a cut slick, it's now sliding on the tarseal without provocation. :shit: Nordie is going for the I-can-run-it-down-to-the-canvas-if-I-wanna award, aiming for billiard-ball smoothness.

Who needs clay then. :scooter:

I'm up for that, you'll have to point it out (on a map, ha ha!) I'm not sure that I've taken the 200EXC into anything up there trickier than I've taken the 640 on dual-purpose tyres, but I know a few spots I don't want to take either bike without someone else along to help push/drag/ring 111.

You may have already done it then - details sent via email. I did say I was a novice RMX rider at the time. Still it is a nicely challenging climb for a flat lander.

Cheers R

Cheers R

NordieBoy

13th August 2007, 18:28

Hmmm...

Apparantly after the first gravel bridge in Pig Valley you turn right and go up into the bush on a big mostly gravel loop that takes you all through the Wiroa Gorge.

merv

13th August 2007, 18:40

I love the way you are still posting on this newby thread Nordie because by now you're a real seasoned veteran oldbie eh, especially after your epic cross country on the old XR.

cooneyr

13th August 2007, 18:59

Hmmm...

Apparantly after the first gravel bridge in Pig Valley you turn right and go up into the bush on a big mostly gravel loop that takes you all through the Wiroa Gorge.

Hmmm - that looks like an interesting place for an explore. The other place must go some time is between the Lee Valley and the Roding River.

Cheers R

NordieBoy

13th August 2007, 20:00

Looks like the Wiroa Gorge winds around itself for a week or 2 and you can exit out onto Kerrs Hill.

Wonder how much is CHH and being logged though.

My bro is having a look at a road legal TT350 this weekend so may be up for showing us some tracks sometime.

Transalper

13th August 2007, 20:35

....but I know a few spots I don't want to take either bike without someone else along to help push/drag/ring 111.
Well you know what the r in cooneyr stands for don't you.... it's rrrr rescue!

cooneyr

13th August 2007, 22:26

Well you know what the r in cooneyr stands for don't you.... it's rrrr rescue!

Tha'ill be $20 each go from now on :D

Maybe I should get a bigger bike so I need help picking it up to - Hmmmm super enduro would be just about heavy enough I recon. How many $20 does it take to may $22k - thats lotsa dropping guys. :innocent:

Cheers R

NordieBoy

13th August 2007, 22:35

thats lotsa dropping guys. :innocent:

Remember - If it's not caught on camera it doesn't count...

far queue

14th August 2007, 21:27

I haven't been on here for a bit and the thread has moved on, but anyway here's the sprockets I'm running ...

I'm running 44 on the back and 13,14, or 15 on the front depending on the ride. 15 is great on the open road and Lees Valley sort of rides and 13 is great in the tight muddy bush stuff at the Waimak. 14 is a jack of all trades. They're all 520 sprockets and I'm still running the original 525 chain.

The bike's done just over 15000km now and the chain still seems fine. My first 13T sprocket was shot after 2742km, my 14T is about had it after 7065km, and the 15 is fine after 5417km. Oh, and my rear wheel bearing is shot and I think my swingarm bush is heading that way too. I'll fix them soonish.

NordieBoy

15th August 2007, 10:12

So your 15/44 is about the same as our 14/42(or 41).

With the type of riding I do I think I'd be interested in (14-15)/43.
Slightly higher geared than the 14/41 for normal use but still capable of doing anything I throw at it and a 14t for when I intend to go more "bush" than seal.

So in summery I think that 14-15/43 would be more useful to me than 14-15/41.

My chain feels like it's wearing unevenly.
I have no ides of the treatment it got in the first 7500km of it's life.
I think I'll stay with 525 as I've already got a new 14t front hanging on the wall.

NordieBoy

18th August 2007, 20:21

Just a little note...
If my brother ever asks if you want to do a loop mostly on gravel roads and it'd be fine for the DR650 or KTM640 with baldish rear tyres...
Run, don't walk to your nearest lightweight dirt bike with good knobblies.

That was the fcukin scariest downhill section I've ever done. 6 odd river crossings including one we had to push through, uphill muddy slippery snotty stuff, downhill muddy slippery snotty stuff and gravel roads.

We found my DR needs the rear suspension revalving and that it can do wheelies on a bald tyre on a slippery muddy track (with the appropriate pilot).

The SuperTrapp is noisey bouncing off the limiter in the forest.

The ATC2K was coming up with card vibration ERRors (spare card and only had a smear of vaseline on it).
The ATC2K doesn't like low light levels.

We headed off at about 2pm and got back at 6pm over 130km later.

Some of the bits would have been freaky on my XR let alone the DR.

cooneyr

18th August 2007, 23:43

.....That was the fcukin scariest downhill section I've ever done. 6 odd river crossings including one we had to push through, uphill muddy slippery snotty stuff, downhill muddy slippery snotty stuff and gravel roads.......

So where are the pics?

Sounds like fun :scooter:

Cheers R

warewolf

19th August 2007, 00:00

If my brother ever asks if you want to do a loop mostly on gravel roads and it'd be fine for the DR650 or KTM640 with baldish rear tyres...Yebbut it was fcukin FUN!

Granted, a bit more rear tyre would've been nice, but I was pleasantly surprised at the performance of the front IRC TR-8. Wa-a-ay better than I remember any TKC80 doing. Seemed to me if you rode properly it worked well: if you over-rode the front it would let go, but if you stopped fighting it it would grab hold again. With the TKC80, once it was gone, it was game over.

NordieBoy

19th August 2007, 13:21

A bit more rear tyre would have been nice for the very first bit, the downhill, the uphill we moved the tree off and that long straight uphill in the trees with the speed robbing water rut at the bottom.
Not to mention everywhere else bar the seal on the way there and back :D

I need to drop the rear ride height as well. It's a little too twitchy in the front

If you ever have a tyre in dire need of rooting then give my bro a call.
Oh, and the chain's not too flash now either :D

NordieBoy

19th August 2007, 14:05

This will show the area covered by the ride.
The Legend doesn't pick up very well in the trees though and being in the forestry there were some trees...

<a href="http://photostorage.nelson.geek.nz/files/20080818 Pig Valley.kmz">Google Earth KMZ here</a>

NordieBoy

23rd August 2007, 18:52

And again :D

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cooneyr

23rd August 2007, 20:17

:Punk: Do you fullers want to go back in there after new years - cause I want to :Punk: :D

Cheers R

NordieBoy

23rd August 2007, 21:10

If Shane remembers where to go by then :D
Although he did mention something about another loop in addition that we could do but wouldn't be back before dark or something.

warewolf

23rd August 2007, 21:24

:Punk: Do you fullers want to go back in there after new years - cause I want to :Punk: :DD'ya really thunk I'm gonna wait that long?! :drool: :blip: But likely will want to go back again, and again , and...

warewolf

23rd August 2007, 21:25

And again :DAhh, thought we lost some posts due to the server crash... :Oops:

cooneyr

24th August 2007, 08:17

D'ya really thunk I'm gonna wait that long?! :drool: :blip: But likely will want to go back again, and again , and...

Some of us aren't lucky enough to live in the sunshine capital :D

Just as long as you don't mind doing it again in early Jan

Cheers R

warewolf

24th August 2007, 20:48

Just as long as you don't mind doing it again in early JanNot at all.

I might even be able to find my way around by then!

NordieBoy

24th August 2007, 21:41

I think an IRC GP1 on the back should do nicely up there.

Transalper

24th August 2007, 22:09

DAS have a new tire to try (just the rear one), only a few in stock, I think it was called a C-10... something like that, $140 not installed.
Seen it at work on a TTR250, he was happy with it, ran low pressure at the Waimak as light bike stiff sidewall. Not as good on seal as E09, better in the dirt, they are big knobs compared to the dual sport tires I've seen. Not sure how it would be on the road, i think ok but be weary in the wet.
J and I just bought a set of E07 each to put on in a few months, when we have finished off our current tires.

cooneyr

25th August 2007, 08:40

NordieBoy

25th August 2007, 15:36

I think my rear E-07 can be officially retired now.
1.2mm tread at the side of centre strip (13325km).

The IRC GP21 on the front still looks sweet with 7mm at the side of centre knob (8495km).

YellowDog

26th August 2007, 10:08

Have been looking at upgrades myself however the dream and reality are too far apart. Either need to get 2 bikes or an all rounder like you have.

Looks good mate, well done!

NordieBoy

26th August 2007, 18:08

Thanks.
I'm happy with it.

NordieBoy

30th August 2007, 10:48

Got myself a new(ish) helmet.
It's a KBC FFR flip-front in black.
Nice positive latching and visor movement.
Not as comfy as my Zeus flippy but it'll wear in a bit.
Going to have to make a wind stopper for under the chin like I made for the Zeus as I'm so used to the lack of wind blowing up in the helmet now.

NordieBoy

2nd September 2007, 17:53

Another Cross Country done and dusted.
A 2-hour this time and if I'd been 45 sec quicker I could have got another lap in.
Got some vid footage of the first lap including being passed by a marshall :o

NordieBoy

3rd September 2007, 22:21

Here it goes...
<object width="318" height="262"> <param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/Cw-OWw4dhtE"> </param> <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/Cw-OWw4dhtE" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="318" height="262"> </embed> </object>

merv

3rd September 2007, 22:38

Cool Nordie, that's quite open terrain so would have suited the old twin shocker pretty well then.

NordieBoy

4th September 2007, 09:18

It was sweet going up the gravel road but down through the pine needles was disc brake time and the rest was very bumpy.
My arms were getting killed by the vibration.
Almost no oil left in the rear shocks doesn't help either.
I hope to get some Hagons before the 6-hour at the end of the month.

Wolf

4th September 2007, 10:23

Almost no oil left in the rear shocks doesn't help either.
Hmmm, can understand that. I need to replace the front fork bearings and top the forks up with oil. Watching Vanessa ride my bike at the CK, I could see from an outside perspective just how soft my front suspension is - small wonder it hammers the crap out of me.

Vanessa informed me that my rear suspension's a bit soft as well (from the point of view of someone who rides off road a lot more than I do.)

tri boy

4th September 2007, 11:08

Great effort NB.:Punk:
Sounds like the kick start ratchet (or something similar) may need some attention soon.
Don't worry about those mono shock boys. real men ride twin shocks.:shifty:

NordieBoy

4th September 2007, 12:21

Great effort NB.:Punk:
Sounds like the kick start ratchet (or something similar) may need some attention soon.
Don't worry about those mono shock boys. real men ride twin shocks.:shifty:

Nah, the engine is sweet, the DR caused the same sounds on the camera.

If only the CB250rs came out in 1979 :(
I could use the front brakes :D

The problem is that it is a twin shock bike.
I want it to be a twin suspension bike :done:

NordieBoy

6th September 2007, 20:02

Woohoo! :woohoo:
4th in class :D
http://www.mmcc.co.nz/results.html

warewolf

6th September 2007, 20:36

Yay!!! :2thumbsup

merv

6th September 2007, 20:49

Yeah good on ya!

NordieBoy

6th September 2007, 21:04

Hmmm...
There's a set of 2nd hand Works Performance shocks for an XR500 sitting in Dirt Extreme at the moment...
They want $650 + postage.
New they'd cost about $1000 landed from the US - Same as Ohlins from Robert T.

Transalper

6th September 2007, 21:27

Woohoo! :woohoo:
4th in class :D
http://www.mmcc.co.nz/results.html
Ok the thing of concern here is that all other classes had the first 5 places listed, your class only listed the first 4. This leaves me wondering how many were in your class?

cooneyr

6th September 2007, 21:37

Ok the thing of concern here is that all other classes had the first 5 places listed, your class only listed the first 4. This leaves me wondering how many were in your class?

Care to elaborate Nordie :scratch::wait::bleh:

Cheers R

warewolf

6th September 2007, 23:18

This leaves me wondering how many were in your class?Rules said a minimum of 8 in each class.

NordieBoy

7th September 2007, 11:33

Ok the thing of concern here is that all other classes had the first 5 places listed, your class only listed the first 4. This leaves me wondering how many were in your class?

Picky buggers arn't we....

Rules said a minimum of 8 in each class.

Soooo....
There must have been 8.

Or 4 :shutup: If you sweet talk the steward.

Talk about spelling mistakes.
My brother's last name is completely totally wrong and the same person got 1st and 2nd in pre 85 :D

NordieBoy

14th September 2007, 15:52

Got the Shinko 244 on (not too happy with my new lead lined rim though).
We'll see how it goes tomorrow.

NordieBoy

15th September 2007, 17:20

On the scales at Warewolfs place and my DR is 79kg front, 80kg rear with about 14L petrol.
159kg total.

warewolf

15th September 2007, 19:45

95 RON petrol is 735g/L.

The 640 Adventure half-dry numbers are: Fr 75.4, Rr 82.6 (48/52%) total 158.0kg. KTM's quoted half-dry figure is... 158kg!! :cool: Fully fueled, it would be 176.8kg.

If you add in one removed Fr disc & caliper, subtract the increase going from alloy to steel Rr sprocket, the OEM half-dry number looks more like 160kg, still pretty close. Knowing KTM's poor documentation updates, 158 is probably the figure for the earlier single-disc model.

NordieBoy

15th September 2007, 20:16

Which brings my DR back to about 149kg dry(ish).
Add 3kg for the stock pipe and take off 3kg for my seat and it's about at the Mfgr dry of 148kg.

NordieBoy

15th September 2007, 20:23

Shinko 244 update.
Maungatapu to Pelorus and back with TransAlper and Warewolf.

I like it on the gravel, dirt, clay, rocks, seal so far.
Nice and progressive leaned over in the gravel.
I hope the carcass gets into shape though. It didn't look good on the balancer.

The front was feeling quite heavy but with the extra drive I'm getting it's back to nice and light again.

NordieBoy

15th September 2007, 21:05

Oh just remembered...
Picked up a Suzi 750 off some poor guy who had been wiped out by a woman turning into a side street (he was going straight and she was coming toward him and she smacked him as she hung a right).

Checked him out and it seemed like he's just going to have quite a bit of bruising front and back.
He was having some problems breathing and the ambos carted him off.

Now for the good bit...

As Jenni and I were walking along, I started complaining to her about motorbike riders who don't cancel their indicators or even use them as he turned a left in front of us with his right blinker on...
Can you see where this is leading?
Crash, sound of plastics on the road and I start running...

Talking to the cops and I switched the bikes ignition back on and the right blinker started up...

I get the shits if I look down and my blinker is still on...

Where did this happen?
Outside the funeral parlor...

cooneyr

15th September 2007, 22:39

dino3310

15th September 2007, 22:54

[QUOTE=NordieBoy;1208042]
I get the shits if I look down and my blinker is still on...

i liked my 81 DR500 no blinkers just lights and hand signals

warewolf

15th September 2007, 23:08

Which brings my DR back to about 149kg dry(ish).That's the half-dry figure... all fluids except fuel.

Transalper

15th September 2007, 23:08

So TA knows what the Manag looks like in daylight now then? No worries going over there in the dark next time then aye :D

Cheers RYep, daylight is a different place. We had lunch at Pelorus then went back over. It was a bit greasy after Fridays rain up there and looks scarier than it actually is to ride. Just got to let the bike do its thing under me and not hold it back too much on the down hill bits. Nordie is a heap quicker now with all that practice he's been getting on the hill. I think I'll make a point of doing the Mangatapu every trip to Nelson if on the bike just because it's a great training run.

warewolf

15th September 2007, 23:15

I think I'll make a point of doing the Mangatapu every trip to Nelson if on the bike just because it's a great training run.Christchurch, Lewis Pass, Maruia Saddle Rd, Braeburn Tk, Porika Tk, ... Nelson.

Even if you are in a hurry, the Maruia Saddle & Braeburn make a good combo.

NordieBoy

15th September 2007, 23:22

Nordie is a heap quicker now with all that practice he's been getting on the hill.

The sad thing is that I go quicker on the DR that I would over the same track on my race bike during a race :(

warewolf

15th September 2007, 23:34

The sad thing is that I go quicker on the DR that I would over the same track on my race bike during a race :(Do I have to point out the obvious? Race the mighty DR!!!:first:

cooneyr

16th September 2007, 11:05

Christchurch, Lewis Pass, Maruia Saddle Rd, Braeburn Tk, Porika Tk, ... Nelson.

Even if you are in a hurry, the Maruia Saddle & Braeburn make a good combo.

If the rainbow isnt open but then again that route aint too bad either.

Yep, daylight is a different place. We had lunch at Pelorus then went back over. It was a bit greasy after Fridays rain up there and looks scarier than it actually is to ride. Just got to let the bike do its thing under me and not hold it back too much on the down hill bits. Nordie is a heap quicker now with all that practice he's been getting on the hill. I think I'll make a point of doing the Mangatapu every trip to Nelson if on the bike just because it's a great training run.

You lot should go and have a look at some of the Sharland creek hill climbs now :D

Damn I hate the "rule" from she who must be obeyed. I wanna ride :weep:

Cheers R

NordieBoy

16th September 2007, 11:12

You lot should go and have a look at some of the Sharland creek hill climbs now :D

Not when there's all the Maungatapu side roads to explore yet :D
Also up Sharlands there's a good possibility of running in to a couple of mad little (<600cc) bikes bikes blasting around whereas the Maungatapu is too boring for them :cool:

cooneyr

16th September 2007, 11:16

Not when there's all the Maungatapu side roads to explore yet :D
Also up Sharlands there's a good possibility of running in to a couple of mad little (<600cc) bikes bikes blasting around whereas the Maungatapu is too boring for them :cool:

Mangatapu side roads - go learn oh master and show the way on sometime between New Years and the 4th of Jan 08.

Cheers R

NordieBoy

17th September 2007, 18:44

Hmmm...
There's a set of 2nd hand Works Performance shocks for an XR500 sitting in Dirt Extreme at the moment...

And they're on the way up here and onto my bike :Punk:

NordieBoy

22nd September 2007, 13:43

Got the shocks :woohoo:

Stock is 430mm centres, these are 450mm...

They have done a bit more than one race.
No gas.
Needs one shaft fixing (one small pit) and one replacing.
You don't get this sort of pitting after one race and it's been chewing the seals and leaking...

cooneyr

22nd September 2007, 15:24

NordieBoy

22nd September 2007, 15:58

Unless the race was the Dakar of course :rolleyes:

warewolf

22nd September 2007, 16:06

Or the last owner did one race, said these are f@cked and on-sold them...

NordieBoy

25th September 2007, 18:56

This weeks mod...
Drilling out the stock pipe for more flow :D

4th gear 70-100 times.
SuperTrapp - 3s
Stock pipe - 4s
Stock pipe (4x7.5mm holes) - 3.5s

Hmmmm...
11mm holes to come...

Transalper

25th September 2007, 22:30

This weeks mod...
Drilling out the stock pipe for more flow :D

...
Hmmmm...
11mm holes to come...
Have you pulled out the spark arrester and are drilling out the holes already in it?
Does it get louder the way you are doing it? or can you drill it out and keep the scilence.

NordieBoy

25th September 2007, 22:55

Spark arrester?

It will get louder but not LOUDER.

Transalper

26th September 2007, 11:05

Spark arrester?

It will get louder but not LOUDER.

Ignore me I think I got :confused: with other bike.

So guess you'd better post a pick of where you are drilling.

warewolf

26th September 2007, 12:00

So guess you'd better post a pick of where you are drilling.What? You want a pic of his garage?:blank:

Transalper

26th September 2007, 13:11

oh ha ha.:slap:

NordieBoy

26th September 2007, 13:58

You do not want a pic of my gargre.
Or to be more specific, I do not want any pics of my gargre that could be held in evidence against me at a later date.

I will tidy it later, honest :rolleyes:

NordieBoy

26th September 2007, 14:06

Ignore me I think I got :confused: with other bike.

So guess you'd better post a pick of where you are drilling.

Ryan's does have spark arresters :)

I did it all scientific like.
Even centre punched the holes for the first time in my life.

GaZBur

26th September 2007, 17:03

Ryan's does have spark arresters :)

I did it all scientific like.
Even centre punched the holes for the first time in my life.

Give us the low down on how it goes and sounds Nordie!
If i remember right you have a dynojet kit, so are you running the 155 main or gone up to the 160 now it can breathe easier. Thats heaps better than plumbing up a new can. If you can recommend this as a good mod I will do that instead of plumbing a CBR can onto my DR as I had planned. Wow - it seems so simple (and cheap) in comparrison.

NordieBoy

26th September 2007, 17:22

Running the DJ155 with this pipe, the DJ160 with the SuperTrapp.

Goes well but if anyone has a go I'd advise opening the airbox, raising the needle a mm or so and starting with 8mm holes.
11mm is maybe a bit overkill but I have the jetting options to tune to suit.

Good thing is you can threadlock some bolts back in the holes if you don't like the effect :D

cooneyr

26th September 2007, 18:47

Ryan's does have spark arresters :)

US forestry approved no less. :yawn:

I did it all scientific like.....

So why is the hole in the top right closer to the centre of the can than the rest. :dodge:

Had the can off when I was playing with the shock last weekend - didnt realise how damn heavy the stock can is. The worst bit, most of the weight is near the back of the can. I think I read somewhere that they are about 8kgs and after feeling how heavy it is I dont doubt it.

Cheers R

NordieBoy

26th September 2007, 19:38

Ha!
Ours is only 5.5kg :woohoo:

If you look more carefully, they made the centre pipe just a little offset to the top-right.
Not my fault at all, no sirreee :doh:

NordieBoy

27th September 2007, 20:24

Thought I'd put this one up.
From the Dusty Butt Part I - On the Molesworth 35km from Hamner.
<img src=http://www.photostorage.nelson.geek.nz/sports/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20070310%20Dusty%20Butt%201000%20Part%201/slides/20070310-170340.jpg>

clint640

28th September 2007, 08:18

That's a cool shot Fran! Have you submitted it for the calendar?

It's amazing how much weight gets packed into stock exhausts, I shaved off over 2kg going to an SXC can on the 640.

Cheers
Clint

NordieBoy

28th September 2007, 09:21

That's a cool shot Fran! Have you submitted it for the calendar?
Not yet, I'm only allowed to submit 2 more so I'm saving up :)

It's amazing how much weight gets packed into stock exhausts, I shaved off over 2kg going to an SXC can on the 640.

That's the main reason I like the SuperTrapp 2.5kg over the stocker 5.5kg.
The bonus of the supertrapp is that it dosn't get as hot and is smaller diameter and further away from the side panel/saddlebags - I'm not interested in the extra power/torque.
Downside is the noise level.

mx_rob on TT is trying an FCR-MX 39mm carb on his DR now and thinks it should get better power, better torque and better mileage.
It fits onto the carb boot and just needs a manifold adapter made...

clint640

28th September 2007, 11:08

The 640 uses the same BST40 carb as the DR, the FCR41 comes std on the 625SXC & is a common conversion for the 640. I've ridden an SXC & you definitely get more instant power with the pumper but outright power & torque aren't much different (it was totally stock though). It wasn't enough difference for me to want to spend the $$$$ on the FCR anyway.

I've heard one or two say the FCR is more efficient but most reckon they use more gas. It probably depends on tuning & riding style quite a bit.

Cheers
Clint

NordieBoy

28th September 2007, 14:58

The FCR-MX has a bearinged slide and accelerator pump.
Rob has been told he should use the 41mm but he's going for the 39mm to keep the gas flow speed up and he's mainly interested in torque and mileage not overall HP.

NordieBoy

30th September 2007, 15:10

Sounding good...

It runs! I started out with all the 450 Yamaha jets... my poor engine! We were leeeeean. It still lofted the front wheel way easier than with the BST. Back to the garage and off came the carb. Every jet that came in the OEM 450 Yamaha carb is useless except the slow air and main air jets. I upped the pilot 1 step to 48 and installed an EMM needle with a 168 main. Holy snikies this thing is a buldozer. I'm so friggin pleased with this thing already and I haven't even begun to test all the jetting. The FCR seriously enhances the strength of the power band on this bike just like I was expecting. Roll-on from a dead stop will lift the front wheel right off the ground. No way would the BST allow the engine to torque down that low and pull so hard. I think the bike is pissed at me though because it seems to have ajusted it's own rev limiter down lower. Seriously though, this thing hits the limiter so fast that is seem like a two stroke with a way too big main jet. And when you shift it it just yanks you so you know you wasted acceleration in over reving the engine. The torque and roll-on are just amazing though.

So right now my initial metering point on the needle at first crack of the throttle whet from 2.75mm to 2.71mm. I'm sure I'll need to select a different needle, a little bit leaner, but my goal is to have it right in the middle or one clip lower at sea level so the boys in the clouds will have some place to go and so that it will have plenty of adjustment for those that want to run or go back to a stock muffler. I'll be selecting my final pilot to run at 2 to 2-1/2 turns out for the same reason. It will also leave plenty of play room for the guys seeking maximum fuel mileage. The main will obviously have to be changed for the stock muffler and for the guys at big elevations.

Thing (1) I don't like: The throttle return spring. Wow this thing is light! Just the weight of my hand can have the thing accelerating away. Some guys might like it but I find it a bit too easy to twist. I will check into a stiffer spring... and since I bought this carb used the PO might have installed the light spring I've seen advertised for them. I guess I'll just talk to Sudco... maybe they'll know right off what I need. Anyway, it's dinner time... jetting continues tomorrow after work!

NordieBoy

30th September 2007, 20:18

Came home in the pouring rain today via the Sherry River Road part of the Dusty.
I can see where it'd be annoying if they closed the gate at the other end...
What's with having the middle couple of Km's of a road closed to public use anyway?

It is a nice bit of road though.

Came past all the rally cars parked up at the old Tapawera Forestry Camp service area doing the final round of the NZ Rally Series.
Blew away an RX7, RX3 and Escort :woohoo:
They were keeping well below 100 and I was keeping just below 110.