Tales from the Emporium [Archive] - Page 3

NordieBoy

7th October 2007, 10:19

FCR39-MX update from rob_mx on TT.
Sweet...
Not affected by wind/airbox pressurisation etc and runs really well at very low revs.
The BST has problems at really low revs as the slide is held up by vacuum and that only happens on an intake pulse. As the pulses are quite far apart the slide drops significantly between pulses - snatching and not smooth.

NordieBoy

7th October 2007, 10:23

Went over the Takaka Hill yesterday to Motupipi and the first day of Top of the South MX Champs.
Got a few photos and also some footage of The Hill (to be youtubed) so people can see the whole hill from the Takaka side coming back to Motueka.

NordieBoy

7th October 2007, 10:46

Deleted the movie...

NordieBoy

10th October 2007, 10:08

New version...
Takaka Hill ride - The Musical!
<object width="318" height="264"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/8ZyCiq-unPE&rel=1"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/8ZyCiq-unPE&rel=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="318" height="264"></embed></object>

Mole_C

10th October 2007, 11:02

Any reason you drilled the holes in those places instead of just at the top, bottom and sides Nordie? Would more smaller holes be better or worse?

tri boy

10th October 2007, 11:05

windboy

10th October 2007, 15:08

Nice day, nice road.... Tricky passing that last one before the summit nordie, was it a ford cosworth? :apint:

NordieBoy

10th October 2007, 16:27

Any reason you drilled the holes in those places instead of just at the top, bottom and sides Nordie? Would more smaller holes be better or worse?

No reason.
4x9mm holes would probably be the sweet spot.
At 7.5mm I noticed an improvement and at 11mm I think it's just louder and closer to the edge of the metal.

NordieBoy

10th October 2007, 16:34

Two things I learn't from the vid Fran.

1 Sth island has reaalllllly long earth tremors, (8-9mins):lol:

2 You have too much blue sky. I'm coming down to take it back to fog town.:rolleyes:

Nice work.:niceone:

1. Thumpers vibes combined with 15 fps. Next time I'll try 30fps 320x240 but that's only 1h 45m on a 2gb card instead of over 3hrs.

2. Not much blue sky here now. You been already?

NordieBoy

10th October 2007, 16:38

Nice day, nice road.... Tricky passing that last one before the summit nordie, was it a ford cosworth? :apint:

Nah, a little Laser or something.
The camera is mounted on the left handlebar. Up at head level I can see over most things.

Must.....get.....camera.....helmet.....mounted.... .
(Before Carl does something nasty to me)

Mole_C

10th October 2007, 17:56

No reason.
4x9mm holes would probably be the sweet spot.
At 7.5mm I noticed an improvement and at 11mm I think it's just louder and closer to the edge of the metal.

Right so theres nothing tricky about it? Just drill the 4 holes in the pic and its done? How deep do you need to drill them and does it have any negatives?

Cheers

NordieBoy

10th October 2007, 18:05

Right so theres nothing tricky about it? Just drill the 4 holes in the pic and its done? How deep do you need to drill them and does it have any negatives?

Cheers

As deep as you want - or just through the 2 stainless layers ;)
You will want to raise the needle a bit after as it will lean it up a bit more.
If you find you don't like it you can locktite some bolts into the holes and it's back to stock(ish).

Mole_C

10th October 2007, 21:15

Well it now has 4*8mm holes sorta nearly evenly spaced in it :whocares: Will take it for a quick ride 2mrw then try raise the needle up a little and see which is better. Just got the stock DJ in, 155 and 4th clip atm.

Isn't too much louder but has a different, harsher sound to it now. I quite like it really :woohoo:

NordieBoy

10th October 2007, 22:36

:D

Mr Centre Punch is your friend...

Hmmm...
I'm running 3rd from top clip with the 155 DJ, open airbox top and removed backfire screen.
Before I removed the backfire screen I was running a 150.

NordieBoy

10th October 2007, 22:57

The complete Takaka Hill....
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<object width="318" height="264"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/H8184EwmJCQ&rel=1"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/H8184EwmJCQ&rel=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="318" height="264"></embed></object><object width="318" height="264"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/1YGFQ2pmUss&rel=1"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/1YGFQ2pmUss&rel=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="318" height="264"></embed></object>

<object width="318" height="264"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/XoOYuvWgvjc&rel=1"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/XoOYuvWgvjc&rel=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="318" height="264"></embed></object>

warewolf

10th October 2007, 23:25

Go to bed Fran!!

Transalper

11th October 2007, 08:32

What does it look like if you stick it all together and speed it up so we can see the whole trip in 5 minutes

NordieBoy

11th October 2007, 11:10

What does it look like if you stick it all together and speed it up so we can see the whole trip in 5 minutes

Don't go away...
I'll be right back...

NordieBoy

11th October 2007, 17:02

The ADHD version of the Takaka Hill ride...

<object width="318" height="264"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/j9IqP-0qL94&rel=1"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/j9IqP-0qL94&rel=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="318" height="264"></embed></object>

NordieBoy

13th October 2007, 19:52

Did another Maungatapu-Pelorus and return today.
I'm getting more confident standing now, it's feeling more natural.

Hopefully get to try out the same techniques tomorrow on the mighty XR.

NordieBoy

14th October 2007, 19:47

Annnnndddd the answer is.... No.
The XR is totally different standing but some pegs with actual teeth and a bit of size would help.

I did 4 or 5 laps at the LaidBack today and the surface varied from nice swept gravel forestry roads to wet smooth-rock climbs to rocky shitty downhills and everything in between. Even a grass section - 50cm wide and 5m long.

One thing I noticed was when I got back after a couple of laps that I was telling my brother my usual sob story "twitchy front, no grip on the front, front suspension hammering my arms whine whine whinge" that I hadn't even mentioned the back with it's new shocks.

The back end just did what it's supposed to.
Usually when I get on it the first time it feels like the swingarm is broken but not this time :D

The twitchyness will be because the front is 2.5cm lower (23" to 21" wheel conversion) and the back is 2cm higher (new shocks) than stock.

Imagine dropping your forks 4.5cm through the clamps :pinch:

We're going to pull the shocks apart and put in a 2cm spacer to limit the travel and re-oil and gas (easier than finding a 1981-2 XR250/500 forks and wheel before next weekend).
Ran 100psi in the shocks but now I read it's ment to have 250psi but seemed fine.

Was very tempted to ride the DR over the Maungatapu and back after though :)

Transalper

27th October 2007, 08:25

Hey Nordie, could you chuck us a couple of close (ish) pictures of the braided brake line.

NordieBoy

27th October 2007, 10:26

Braided line sheilding thingy...

marks

27th October 2007, 13:38

The ADHD version of the Takaka Hill ride...

Man can you ride fast or what...

how do you find the video cam now that you are used to it - is it ok for trail riding rather than just fluffing around on the tar seal??

NordieBoy

27th October 2007, 14:33

I want to see how it goes mounted to the helmet but am still working out the details.
I've smeared the batterys and card with some of the silicon stuff that comes with it and vibration isn't an issue with turning it off/card errors even in a x-country race.

Next month it's going to be mounted on drag cars, karts, bikes...
Fun time :D

Transalper

27th October 2007, 15:02

Ok, have installed my braided line, tryed to keep more of the original look...
Used 13mm ID low pressure irrigation tube for the sliding bit up the fork leg. Had to be 13mm ID to fit the nuts down inside during installation. Used some fuel line as packing top and bottom of that tube including where the clamp is at the bottom of the tube.
Used that heat shrink tubing to seal it all up/ or at least hold everything in place around the tube.
Haven't been far but the leaver seems much firmer on first impression. Then again i had water for brake fluid when we drained it so fresh fluid alone would have made some difference. I'll know better when I ride J's DR again to compare.

NordieBoy

27th October 2007, 17:13

Let's see how this works (50 sec long)...
<object width="318" height="262"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/0KqB3776K38"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/0KqB3776K38" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="318" height="262"></embed></object>

NordieBoy

27th October 2007, 20:33

New chain and sprockets yesterday and 14/43 is a bit low geared for road use.
Fantastic in the hills though.

Now to wait for the 15t front.

Looks like the rear sprocket and chain are in pretty good condition...

It was the front causing the vibes through the footpegs...

I've cut away some of the sprocket cover now so I can see what's happening in there :doh:

NordieBoy

27th October 2007, 20:49

Haven't been far but the leaver seems much firmer on first impression. Then again i had water for brake fluid when we drained it so fresh fluid alone would have made some difference. I'll know better when I ride J's DR again to compare.

Looks too shiny :whistle:
Change J's (brake) fluids before comparing though.

I love those one-way bleeder valves :2thumbsup

cooneyr

29th October 2007, 07:44

Transalper

29th October 2007, 08:20

Got my line from Don, he said get a pipe to use as a stiffener up the fork leg to stop it flexing as the fork compresses and thus stop and risk of having it tangle with wheel/fender etc. I then went and spoke to Linton and he said the same thing. So I did, where as Nordie has just used some electronic cable wrap.
I take it your braided line is exposed all the way down the fork leg, I guess the repairer thought it was stiff enough on its own.

Good to have you back, I'm looking forward to the coming adventures.

NordieBoy

29th October 2007, 10:06

I'm back - manged to get to ride the bike to work today :woohoo:

So why did you guys cover the braided lines in tube? Are they not plastic sheath anyway (mine is)?

Cheers R

Because it won't take long for the guides to wear through the plastic.
Mine had only been on for 2 weeks and you could see scuffing on the tubing.

cooneyr

29th October 2007, 10:50

Oky Doky - I'd better look into this as well.

Off to DAS to sort new chain and front sprocket + filter etc etc at lunchtime. Warewolf - you had better be right about the chaingang sprockets being good - one should arrive on my door step sometime this week but damn they are expensive. $180 nz with PNP - I though the exchange rate was a little better then it is a the moment so partly my fault.

Cheers R

Transalper

29th October 2007, 11:24

cooneyr

29th October 2007, 11:32

wow, that's twice the price of the JT one.
I have a heap of that 13mm tube I used down my fork leg if you need any, but you'll have to disconnect the top of the line to put it in where as Nordies way might be able to be done in place?

Yep - just a tad more expensive. Anyway you live and learn and Warewolf will hear about if it doesn't work out :Pokey:

Not sure how I'll deal with the brake line yet as I cant really be bothered with bleeding the brakes - pain in the arse.

Cheers R

warewolf

29th October 2007, 11:55

Warewolf - you had better be right about the chaingang sprockets being good - one should arrive on my door step sometime this week but damn they are expensive. $180 nz with PNP - I though the exchange rate was a little better then it is a the moment so partly my fault.That's a bit more than I paid, even the 530 for the Triumph was only $149 landed. I wish they'd send them on the slow boat, try PNP on 2x sprockets and a HD chain - yikes! I've asked before but they still sent it airmail which arrived in 3-4 working days.

Looks like I'm up for a set on the 200; got all of 900km (23hrs) on the KTM steel sprockets with OEM Regina (crap) chain. Mind you, the chain did do an extra 1900km on the 640 Adventure which wouldn't have helped. Unfortunately most of the work the 200 has done has been in multi-hour cross country events, so the poor drive train spends a long time in stressful dirty conditions without being cleaned. Definitely going for a Chaingang rear as a replacement.

The rear chaingang on the 640 did 18,000km and it's only starting to look worn - not worn out. It's outlasted 2x chaingang fronts and an RK GXW top-flight chain. It also had the aforementioned Regina run on it for the 1900km. There's no doubt they're more durable. Just make sure you keep replacing the front when it gets worn... not like Nordie.

warewolf

29th October 2007, 12:01

wow, that's twice the price of the JT one.and twice the quality.

cooneyr

29th October 2007, 12:44

......The rear chaingang on the 640 did 18,000km and it's only starting to look worn - not worn out. It's outlasted 2x chaingang fronts and an RK GXW top-flight chain. It also had the aforementioned Regina run on it for the 1900km. There's no doubt they're more durable. Just make sure you keep replacing the front when it gets worn... not like Nordie.

Just been to organise a chain (going for the EK MVXZ which appears to be slightly better than the RK XSO but might be wrong) and front sprocket. Was talking to the guys at DAS about the chaingang sprockets and they raved about them.

I plan on doing a front sprocket maybe every 6000kms cause they are cheep compared to a chain and rear and defiantly the first things to wear.

Cheers R

NordieBoy

29th October 2007, 13:53

NordieBoy

29th October 2007, 13:56

Not sure how I'll deal with the brake line yet as I cant really be bothered with bleeding the brakes - pain in the arse.

Get yourself a 1-way bleed valve thingy.
No more fiddling at the caliper end, just pour dot-4 in the top and pump the lever until it's clear out the bottom...

cooneyr

29th October 2007, 20:52

nigelp

29th October 2007, 21:09

Get yourself a 1-way bleed valve thingy.
No more fiddling at the caliper end, just pour dot-4 in the top and pump the lever until it's clear out the bottom...

Whats this 1-way bleeder valve you talk of? I have noticed that my brakes are getting a bit spongy and may need bleeding/adding some more fluid

NordieBoy

29th October 2007, 21:15

Whats this 1-way bleeder valve you talk of? I have noticed that my brakes are getting a bit spongy and may need bleeding/adding some more fluid

One Man Brake Bleeder $25
http://www.dirtbike.co.nz/default.asp?pageid=99#

NordieBoy

29th October 2007, 21:23

Forget everything I ever said about the gear ratios on my bike. I discovered today that I have a 43 rear already! When I got home tonight I discovered a package that wifey hadnt told me about (kept it as a supprise) with the new 43 tooth Chaingang sprocket. I compared it to the sprocket already on the bike and discovered it was kinda similar so had a count to check and found THEY ARE THE SAME - doh. Anyway still glad I got a 43.

Will put up a pic of the new sprocket when I get the chain sorted. I'm going to some "interesting" colours if I can get the chain in the right colour.

Cheers R

So your bike was virtually the same gearing as mine all along?

Sounds like me getting my 14t front to gear it down as it was soooo high geared only to find it already had a 14t front :doh:

14/41 = 4500rpm @ 100kph, 4700@110
14/43 = 4700@100, 5200@110
15/43 = 4450@100, 4650@110 (at a guess)

Transalper

29th October 2007, 21:27

lol, no wonder when you put the 14tooth front on it seemed to low on the highway for you, most us agree with that...when the rear is 43.

cooneyr

29th October 2007, 21:50

lol, no wonder when you put the 14tooth front on it seemed to low on the highway for you, most us agree with that...when the rear is 43.

Yer well :Oops: you live and learn. No wonder you lot were complaining so much about the 15/41 gearing when I was happy as LOL :D

Cheers R

marks

30th October 2007, 17:15

Whats this 1-way bleeder valve you talk of? I have noticed that my brakes are getting a bit spongy and may need bleeding/adding some more fluid

how often should you replace brake fluid on a trial/adventure bike?

nigelp

30th October 2007, 17:49

Pass, I am sure one of the more seasoned experts will come and inform us! I would imagine significantly more often than road bikes as all the crap we ride through must eventually contaminate the fluid!

NordieBoy

30th October 2007, 18:21

how often should you replace brake fluid on a trial/adventure bike?

The manual says every 2 years.
It also says to replace the brake lines every 4 years...

I'd do it every year or so.
Or if the brakes are feeling weird at all...

far queue

30th October 2007, 19:20

The manual says every 2 years.So, after 4 1/2 years I should maybe think about it then :whistle:

timg

30th October 2007, 20:09

I compared it to the sprocket already on the bike and discovered it was kinda similar so had a count to check and found THEY ARE THE SAME - doh. Anyway still glad I got a 43.

Cheers R

Not enough fingers eh?? eight, nine, ten, um, um, ummmm :Oops: :dodge:

cooneyr

30th October 2007, 20:21

Not enough fingers eh?? eight, nine, ten, um, um, ummmm :Oops: :dodge:

Thats where the toes come in LOL :D

Cheers R

cooneyr

30th October 2007, 20:25

So, after 4 1/2 years I should maybe think about it then :whistle:

You obviously dont tweek your nipples often enough :blink::wari:

Cheers R

far queue

30th October 2007, 21:13

You obviously dont tweek your nipples often enough :blink::wari:You making me an offer I can refuse :sick: The brakes seem to be working OK (pull the lever, push the pedal = slow down) so I figured if it's not broken why play with it? All the things that have to be done get done ... mmmmm, I must put those new wheel bearings in that are sitting on the bench :doh:

warewolf

30th October 2007, 21:15

Thats where the toes come in LOL :DAll 12 of them, eh?

NordieBoy

30th October 2007, 21:25

All 12 of them, eh?

Watch it, he'll hit you with his banjo :calm:

warewolf

30th October 2007, 21:29

how often should you replace brake fluid on a trial/adventure bike?Service intervals on brake fluid is usually 12 months. The stuff is seriously hygroscopic (absorbs water) which ruins it. Buy a fresh container once a year, zip round do all the hydraulic brakes/clutches on all the bikes in the shed. :done: Maybe tomorrow I will post a photo of my speed bleeder, consists of 1x 30cm length of clear hose, plus 1x cable tie.

And yes, I've noticed the adventure bike needs doing more often than the road bike, and the off-roader more often again. As in, the roadie still feels OK at 12 months, the adventure bike hmmm okay-ish and the off-roader get done when it feels spongy - never lasts a year.

One of the problems with not changing the fluid is causing rust (from the absorbed water) in the steel bits such as the pistons, which then chew out the seals. Both of these are far more expensive to replace than fluid. Like engine oil, one reason to change it is to physically remove particulate contamination. Dirt/dust gets in behind the piston seals, too.

And I would recommend a caliper piston removal and flush every handful of years as an in-situ bleed won't scavenge the caliper completely.

far queue

30th October 2007, 21:37

Service intervals on brake fluid is usually 12 months ... lots of techo stuff ... completely.You trying to make me feel guilty:doh:

warewolf

31st October 2007, 06:55

You trying to make me feel guilty:doh:Too bloody right! :2thumbsup

How's your fork oil?

cooneyr

31st October 2007, 07:19

All 12 of them, eh?

The webs in between make up another 10 so almost to 43!

Cheers R

warewolf

31st October 2007, 07:31

The webs in between make up another 10 so almost to 43!Nearly enough to count all your siblings, John-Boy! :D

far queue

31st October 2007, 12:30

Too bloody right! :2thumbsup

How's your fork oil?Forks have oil? :shit: Next you'll be expecting me to clean it :blink: The headlight fluid is topped up though :niceone:

NordieBoy

31st October 2007, 17:29

Forks have oil? :shit: Next you'll be expecting me to clean it :blink: The headlight fluid is topped up though :niceone:

I used "Phillips 55/60 + 50" headlight fluid in mine.

GaZBur

31st October 2007, 20:56

OMG. Do you mean I gotta take care of it? What the...I thought the service instructions in the manual were just so bike shops could make money and was under the impression DR's were maintenance free! Hell, are you sure you guys are right? Damn, if I wanted to spend time doing maintenence instead of riding I would have bought a KTM or something.

far queue

31st October 2007, 20:58

I used "Phillips 55/60 + 50" headlight fluid in mine.Huh :spudwhat: Oh, I get it, you're using that new fangled electrickery stuff :rolleyes: I meant I topped up the kerosine in the lamp, it's far better than the carbide I used to use :bleh:

warewolf

1st November 2007, 06:21

it's far better than the carbide I used to useI still use carbide, it RULES :headbang:

<img src=http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/warewolf885/outdoor/event/2004/asgSI/LittleHarwoods-Colindescending2.jpg>

<img src=http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/warewolf885/outdoor/event/2004/asgSI/LittleHarwoods-Kevindescending2.jpg>

<img src=http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/warewolf885/outdoor/event/2004/asgSI/LittleHarwoods-ascent1.jpg>

And until a few years ago, the systems cavers used were exactly the same as you'd see on vintage bikes! The only real improvement has been a larger plastic acetylene generator remote-mounted on your belt, rather than the small metal one behind the lamp.

cooneyr

1st November 2007, 06:27

I still use carbide, it RULES :headbang:

picy picy picy

You gotta take a big fuller down a hole one day, a nice easy one mind :eek5:

Keen to see the inside rather than the top of a mountain for once. Got my own harness, helmet, basic gear etc.

Cheers R

marks

1st November 2007, 06:42

One Man Brake Bleeder $25
http://www.dirtbike.co.nz/default.asp?pageid=99#

$20 at supercheap auto

warewolf

1st November 2007, 08:13

You gotta take a big fuller down a hole one day, a nice easy one mind :eek5:Anytime. Maybe xmas when you're up here? Could do a pre-DustyButt warm-up cave!

cooneyr

5th November 2007, 06:57

Blingy blingy. Purple and yellow goes nicely with the rest of the bike. One thing left to do - get the clip link replaced by the rivet link on the bench in the gge. Did new wheel bearings and seals at the same time and gave the whole rear wheel assembly a good clean. Was just a little bit dirty.

Holes in the sprocket will mean I'll have to make sure the scotty stays in the right place.

15 front JT 43 rear Chaingang and EK MVXZ 525.

Cheers R

NordieBoy

5th November 2007, 08:00

I'm trying to get a clip link to replace the rivet link on my one :D

warewolf

5th November 2007, 08:14

Blingy blingy.Looking good, Vern! :niceone:

15 front JT 45 rear ChaingangSuggest you do Nordie's mod to the front sprocket cover, that JT is the weak link.

I've done the same to my 640, despite the cover coming off every 5000km for oil & filter change. It's great being able to inspect it in a split-second... and hence plan its retirement. The front JT on the Triumph hasn't been seen for over 50,000km and the rear is ready for replacement - at which point the front is usually...:cry: :sick:

NordieBoy

5th November 2007, 08:33

15 front JT 45 rear Chaingang and EK MVXZ 525.

So the 15/45 will be about the same ratio as the 14/43 I'm running at the moment.
I like it for playing in the hills and compared to the 14/41 it means idling down the other side of the Maungatapu was a comfortable 2nd gear affair with no pushing you a bit fast into some corners.
I'm getting used to it on the open road too and am just playing around seing what kind of mileage it gets to a tank.
At the moment my thinking is I'll be using this gearing for the Dusty.

cooneyr

5th November 2007, 08:44

So the 15/45 will be about the same ratio as the 14/43 I'm running at the moment.
I like it for playing in the hills and compared to the 14/41 it means idling down the other side of the Maungatapu was a comfortable 2nd gear affair with no pushing you a bit fast into some corners.
I'm getting used to it on the open road too and am just playing around seing what kind of mileage it gets to a tank.
At the moment my thinking is I'll be using this gearing for the Dusty.

:doh: Scratch that - 43 rear. Ratio is 15/43. Been outa bed at 6 for that past 5 mornings (including weekends) cause wife working early shi(f)t at the moment. Thank god she is giving the job away.

The 14/43 is all good for blasting round off road but I find it a little buzy on the road. Have been 15/43 for most of the last year and 14/43 for the past 4 or so months. 15/43 is a better compromise I recon. If I didn't have to ride around the Canty plains I would probably stick with the 14/43.

Cheers R

Transalper

5th November 2007, 11:09

15/43 is my favourate, don't see myself changing it for anything. If I felt the need to change to 14/43 then I'd proberbly be going somewhere where I'd try be on the CRF instead anyway.

NordieBoy

8th November 2007, 09:54

cooneyr

8th November 2007, 10:15

Just put the 15t front on and the only place it feels better is in top at 100.
I'll run through this tank to get some mileage figures but I can see myself going back to 14/43 for normal use and only to the 15 for longer road trips.

Stop bloody skiting. :spanking: We all know there are plenty of hills and nice twisty roads around NN :wari:

Cheers R

NordieBoy

8th November 2007, 15:31

Just been through to the Maungatapu summit (via some detours along the way) and the 15/43 is not the ratio for me.
Either bogging in first or having to carry too much speed for my likeing going up some bits and similar on the way down.

Yeah, I hate how Nelson is full of long boring straight bits :D

NordieBoy

21st November 2007, 07:56

Jeeze, this is the longest my poor little DR has gone without something being changed.

All I've done recently is the rear wheel bearings, swapping the front sprocket occasionally and a small unifilter to replace the carb diaphram breather filter (the foam was disintergrating on the original).

I started wearing my MX helmet again and of course it makes the bike sound different and I thought the cam chain may be going but it turned out to be a loose bolt on the header shield :o

I managed to put 18.75L in yesterday and at a guess there was half a litre still in there after 333km using the 14t front.
I put the 15t on after filling it up to see what mileage I get from it to compare.

marks

21st November 2007, 17:33

yah know this whole gearing thing is a real pisser.

On my wr I can have a 13t front and have a first gear to go anywhere but scream its nuts off at 100k or a 15t and slip the crap out of my clutch on steep hills etc but cruise fine at 100k. or I can put the 14t on and get a compromise that isnt good at either.

why do they never give mid sized trailies a decent spread of gears.... mumble mumble mumble.

I hate changing sprockets....

NordieBoy

21st November 2007, 21:24

Yep, on the DR a 14/43 combo with a 6th gear would be sweet.

GaZBur

21st November 2007, 21:51

I am still on stock gearing and was changing into top just over 140K (on the track - before someone gets all upset). Looking at the gps charts the acceleration took a big kink after the change so the jump between 4th and 5th is just too big. I assume there is nothing you can do about that is there, and still maintain a good top speed of over 160k.
On the road I find getting up to 100 in 4th then changing into 5th to maintain 100k cruise speed works but less than 100 and I got to drop a gear.
I have two questions.
1. Does anybody know what is the (actual/real) top speed of a DR with std gearing and also with the smaller 14 tooth sproket. My guess is that it won't pull maximum revs in top with a standard motor as at 160 it doesnt sound like its revving too hard at all.
2. Does anybody know if there is a real rev limiter on the bike or does it just stop revving when its had enough. Its really like hitting a wall when you get to 100k in second.

NordieBoy

22nd November 2007, 07:20

GaZBur

22nd November 2007, 08:08

Hmmmmm!!

Thanks Nordie that is very informative and not what I expected. I hope you don't mind me throwing these questions at you. From what you have shown I am now convinced to change my gearing.
173k is heaps for most situations and realistically will it pull more than that with standard gearing. I think probably not, so it is quite possible that the theoretically lower gearing will allow an actual higher top speed because the engine can realistically pull top gear properly.
The main straight at Teretonga is about 950metres long compared to about 740meters for Levels so getting top speed is possible geared correctly.
Also I find at the Kart track I am topping out in second before the end of the straight now so making one change up and one change down a lap wont hurt, everybody else uses about 2nd,3rd & 4th each lap - I just hold second gear all the way and use the torque, he heh!

GaZBur

22nd November 2007, 08:33

On the dyno the revs stop quite abruptly as it starts dropping sparks at about 7800rpm.

Let's see...
If 14/41 = 4500rpm @ 100kph then @7800rpm it's doing 173kph.

Soooo...
15/41 @ 7800rpm should give a theoretical 186kph.
14/41 @ 7800rpm should give a theoretical 173kph.
Sprocket ordered and on its way. What I will do is try the standard sprocket first to see what it will pull. If it pulls less than an indicated 180kph (probably real 175kph from gps readings) on the speedo I will drop to the 14 tooth for the acceleration advantage if nothing else.

NordieBoy

22nd November 2007, 09:53

This was the chart I just worked out.
All in top gear.

14/41 = 4500 @ 100
14/41 = 4950 @ 110
14/41 = 7800 @ 173

15/41 = 4200 @ 100
15/41 = 4600 @ 110
15/41 = 7800 @ 186

14/43 = 4700 @ 100
14/43 = 5200 @ 110
14/43 = 7800 @ 165

15/43 = 4400 @ 100
15/43 = 4850 @ 110
15/43 = 7800 @ 177

NordieBoy

27th November 2007, 20:35

I just went for a ride between jobs today and went through Wakefield, Church Valley, Pig Valley, Wairoa Valley, Wairoa River West Branch, Old Mill Road, Up Ben Nevis and back to Brightwater via the Wairoa Valley, Pig, Valley Gibbs Valley, Bridge Valley and Mt Heslington Road.

Hmmm.
Might have to see if I can link some of these little loops together for a planned ride...

GaZBur

29th November 2007, 10:40

I just been re-reading your thread Nordie, how the feck did I miss the grind header weld? Thanks for the pics there coz I didn't get what you talking about till I saw it. What a crap piece of work in an important part for performance!!! I will get around to fixing that before Motards start up again next year. Still got a few pages left to read to be up to date, but my special thanks for the table of gearing rations & speeds.
Now for todays question!
What the hell is a Nordie anyway? I take it you got your username from a previous bike called a Nordie - but what is it? That is a question that has been annoying me for a while. Everybody should post an explanation for their username. I mean if I was Rudge350 you would know I joined the KB site in about 1927 and was riding, well a Rudge naturally. But now - no matter what a Nordie is or was - you are stuck with the name - kind of like a 10 year old tattoo - ohh look - he got that last milleneium. More to the point, why is it bothering me enough to actually ask!?!?!?

NordieBoy

29th November 2007, 15:40

INow for todays question!
What the hell is a Nordie anyway? I take it you got your username from a previous bike called a Nordie - but what is it?

Welll, I'll give you a hint....

<img src=http://www.photostorage.nelson.geek.nz/sports/motorsport/mybikes/nordwest/slides/Soufi-before-and-after2.jpg>

1993 Gilera Nordwest 558cc 47hp

I've got 2 and they're.... they're.... they're....

Man this is hard.

They're..... for sale.
Buy one get one free.

cooneyr

29th November 2007, 15:43

Welll, I'll give you a hint....

<img src=http://www.photostorage.nelson.geek.nz/sports/motorsport/mybikes/nordwest/slides/Soufi-before-and-after2.jpg>

1993 Gilera Nordwest 558cc 47hp

I've got 2 and they're.... they're.... they're....

Man this is hard.

They're..... for sale.
Buy one get one free.

:gob: never!

You feeling alright Nordie?

Cheers R

NordieBoy

29th November 2007, 15:56

The minter has a broken cambelt and I don't know what else was damaged.
May just be a $120 cambelt and it's away. Also needs the forkseals done (got them on the bench).
The modded one needs steering bearings and a cambelt (just old and don't want to risk it).

For $2k you get the modded one (fixed) and an extra $1k gets the other as well.
If the minter dosn't sell, I'll set it up as my road bike.

We're looking at buying a house so need to cash up as much as poss.

NordieBoy

29th November 2007, 21:43

Starting to plan a local ride, tentatively the "Tasman Dust Buster".
A day long ride in the Tasman District.
So far I think I've got about 300km covered but need to do some test riding to check things out continuity, time and distance wise.

I'm thinking 5-6 hours and a BBQ after.

Stay tuned.

Transalper

29th November 2007, 21:50

this better happen on a good day for me or you'll be doing it again soon after!

GaZBur

30th November 2007, 12:46

Welll, I'll give you a hint....
I've got 2 and they're.... they're.... they're....

Man this is hard.

They're..... for sale.
Buy one get one free.
I could say they are only machines!!! Well they are only things you know, possessions, steel/alloy/plastic/rubber conglomerations that have no life of their own, but I know some of you guys get sentimental about bikes for some reason. Sorry but I never give my vehicles names or mollycoddle them, if they can't take a lack of affection then they leave.
Seems cheap though to me? So you wouldn't do the get one free without buying the first one, no? Just that those 17inch wheels and disks look just the thing for.....oops ! Sorry - don't mean to sound completely heartless.

NordieBoy

30th November 2007, 12:56

I could say they are only machines!!! Well they are only things you know, possessions, steel/alloy/plastic/rubber conglomerations that have no life of their own, but I know some of you guys get sentimental about bikes for some reason. Sorry but I never give my vehicles names or mollycoddle them, if they can't take a lack of affection then they leave.
Seems cheap though to me? So you wouldn't do the get one free without buying the first one, no? Just that those 17inch wheels and disks look just the thing for.....oops ! Sorry - don't mean to sound completely heartless.

It's the first ever factory motard with 17" wheels.
It's Italian.
The engine has won it's class in the Dakar.
It's been through the Maungatapu, Rainbow, MX tracks, Trail riding...
All on the 17" wheels :D

NordieBoy

2nd December 2007, 18:22

Went out for an exploratory ride today.

Old Coach Road, Rosedale Hill, Jacobs Ladder, Baton Valley, Sunday Creek, Dovedale Hill and back to Nelson.

I wanted to see if the Baton Ford was passable opening up a gravel way from the West Bank all the way to Taparewa. I walked across but wouldn't like to risk the DR on my own.

The GPS reads 188km - 3hr 11min for the return trip.

This may have been a clue left by previous intrepid explorers...
<img src=http://www.photostorage.nelson.geek.nz/sports/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20071202%20Baton%20River/slides/20071202-130122-000001.jpg>

Dosn't look too bad from here...
<img src=http://www.photostorage.nelson.geek.nz/sports/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20071202%20Baton%20River/slides/20071202-132242-000004.jpg>

Looks worse from this side :D
<img src=http://www.photostorage.nelson.geek.nz/sports/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20071202%20Baton%20River/slides/20071202-132732-000010.jpg>

But what if the cattle can't read?
<img src=http://www.photostorage.nelson.geek.nz/sports/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20071202%20Baton%20River/slides/20071202-135130-000021.jpg>

Doh! A deer, a female deer.
<img src=http://www.photostorage.nelson.geek.nz/sports/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20071202%20Baton%20River/slides/20071202-142142.jpg>

Obligatory posed bike shot.
<img src=http://www.photostorage.nelson.geek.nz/sports/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20071202%20Baton%20River/slides/20071202-135300-000023.jpg>

Obligatory 1 handed 105kph on gravel shot.
<img src=http://www.photostorage.nelson.geek.nz/sports/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20071202%20Baton%20River/slides/20071202-143425-000034.jpg>

GaZBur

2nd December 2007, 18:38

Went out for an exploratory ride today.

....
Dosn't look too bad from here...
....Looks worse from this side :D
Wow what a different angle can do!!! From the bike side of that river in the pic I would have said go for it, but looking from the other side I would have said not bloody likely!!
Great pics though - how did you get the deer so quick - do you have a helmet cam or something?

NordieBoy

2nd December 2007, 20:25

Wow what a different angle can do!!! From the bike side of that river in the pic I would have said go for it, but looking from the other side I would have said not bloody likely!!
Great pics though - how did you get the deer so quick - do you have a helmet cam or something?

The shot from the far side is almost at ground level so looks worse :D

I had time to get the camera out of my top pocket, turn it on and take 2 shots before it headed off.
Must have been chasing it for 300m or more.

warewolf

2nd December 2007, 21:39

I wanted to see if the Baton Ford was passable opening up a gravel way from the West Bank all the way to Taparewa. I walked across but wouldn't like to risk the DR on my own.Yer bro' Shane prolly would have led us across on bald tyres...:confused:

NordieBoy

3rd December 2007, 07:28

Yer bro' Shane prolly would have led us across on bald tyres...:confused:

Yeah, and stood on the other side laughing his tits off at us struggling across :D

JATZ

3rd December 2007, 20:33

Don't think I'd do the ford on a bike, it's rough enough in the 4wd.mind you I'm just a newby. Suggest the Aorere gold fields in your tour of Tasman

NordieBoy

4th December 2007, 07:44

Don't think I'd do the ford on a bike, it's rough enough in the 4wd.mind you I'm just a newby. Suggest the Aorere gold fields in your tour of Tasman

To me it looked like it'd be easier on a bike than a 4wd :D
The rocks arn't slippery, just large and round.
Someone needs to accidentally throw some of them in that hole on the south side.

The problem with the Tasman ride is what to leave out to keep it under 1 day.

I havn't done the Aorere yet.

So, when are you doing the Aorere next? :scooter:

cooneyr

4th December 2007, 07:57

The problem with the Tasman ride is what to leave out to keep it under 1 day.

I havn't done the Aorere yet.

So, when are you doing the Aorere next? :scooter:

I'm keen as to go through the Aorere on the bike. Done it in a 4x4 which was fun.

You'd better get the date right for this Tasman ride Nordie else there will be disappointed people round the place :D

Maybe it should be a two dayer?

Cheers R

JATZ

4th December 2007, 19:31

I havn't booked it in to do again, but I will go through at some stage, it's a bit much for my usual riding partner so I will let you know, how does 1/2 an hours notice sound

NordieBoy

4th December 2007, 20:12

1/2 an hour is fine.
You may or may not get a reply is all :D

NordieBoy

5th December 2007, 14:13

Latest mods...

1. Raised the handlebars 1.5cm or so using the old bar clamps.
Much nicer whilst standing now and combined with 2cm lower on the footpegs will be great.

2. UFO Motard front guard (old one off the Nordie).
A lot narrower, seems to go well, low speed mud/water splatter isn't a problem.

deanohit

5th December 2007, 14:59

that guard looks real sleek (compared to the original) and tidy on there mate.

NordieBoy

5th December 2007, 18:15

If I know it's going to be wet/muddy I'll slap the original guard back on.
The original is almost twice as long/wide/heavy.

NordieBoy

7th December 2007, 20:18

Valve clearances tonight.

Inlet spec is .08-.13 and was .1 so left it alone.
Exhaust spec is .17-.22 and was .17 and now is 0.2

Sounds tappety from the exhaust ports now :(

deanohit

7th December 2007, 20:37

How many kays has the beast racked up?

NordieBoy

7th December 2007, 21:48

7500 in the first 5 years and an additional 26000 in the last 12 months.

deanohit

7th December 2007, 21:55

7500 in the first 5 years and an additional 26000 in the last 12 months.

So it's only just run in then?! :niceone:

tri boy

8th December 2007, 07:02

Valve clearances tonight.

Inlet spec is .08-.13 and was .1 so left it alone.
Exhaust spec is .17-.22 and was .17 and now is 0.2

Sounds tappety from the exhaust ports now :(

Keep us informed. 0.2mm (O.008") sounds like quite a wide clearance for a m/cycle valve clearance. But i've been out of the game for a few years, so i'm out of touch.:stupid:
Valve train wear?

NordieBoy

8th December 2007, 07:59

Keep us informed. 0.2mm (O.008") sounds like quite a wide clearance for a m/cycle valve clearance. But i've been out of the game for a few years, so i'm out of touch.:stupid:
Valve train wear?

Wide clearance but right in the middle of spec.

It seems the Dr's do sound a bit tappety unless you do the clearances to the tight end of spec.

I'll ride it for a bit and then check them again and may close them up slightly.

warewolf

8th December 2007, 14:47

0.2mm (O.008") sounds like quite a wide clearance for a m/cycle valve clearance. But i've been out of the game for a few years, so i'm out of touch.Big for an air/oil cooled big single? The water-cooled 640 LC4 spec is 0.10-0.15mm.

Yer Triumph is 0.15-0.20mm on the exhausts!

tri boy

8th December 2007, 15:08

Big for an air/oil cooled big single? The water-cooled 640 LC4 spec is 0.10-0.15mm.

Yer Triumph is 0.15-0.20mm on the exhausts!

As I say, i've been off the bikes for about 15yrs(commercial w/shops), and when i was in it, most of my work was on four stroke multi's, and alot of performance work. (GS,GSX,Z's, CB's etc) methanol, avgas stuff.
Most big Suzi's ran close tolerances, (about 0.002") to get them singing.
And speedway/drag engines? Just enough to let the oil under the followers.:headbang:

Chook chasers and the such weren't my gig, so forgive me if I'm out of touch.
Maybe the Volty could use some serious "Bombing".
PS, only had one engine fail out of many. Our Speedway sidecar broke a crank
clean in the centre last meeting of the 88 season. Mind you, that was a serious firebreather.:2thumbsup

warewolf

8th December 2007, 15:37

You're forgiven. :innocent: I understand peformance stuff would prolly be tighter, more attention to detail and to get the valves open further.

NordieBoy

8th December 2007, 16:47

Today has been "tidy the dash day".
Found some LED's at DSE that already have the ballast resistors and 10cm wires attached to hook straight up to 12V.
They come in 5 packs for about $5 :cool:

A piece of foam later and the proto-dash is born.

It'll be made in a peice of hard plastic sometime but I'll see how it works first.

It's got a blue neutral light in the middle, a pair of white ones either side for high beam and aux light and a pair of red's at the ends for the blinkers.

I cut the rubber mounting block for the old lights off.

GaZBur

8th December 2007, 22:55

That does look pretty fancy and probably heaps more visable than the standard lights. I always wondered how people could be so damn silly as to leave their indicators on as there is a flasher. But today I noticed the indicator flasher is not visable because when you have your head up the chin of the helmet obscures it. Wonder how long I had them going for??:(
The patented NordieWonderDash would fix that!

NordieBoy

9th December 2007, 08:32

Yep :D
I think the old ones are 3w or so and the LED's are 0.06w but considerably brighter.

Next, lighting wise is LED blinkers and numberplate light.

NordieBoy

10th December 2007, 18:32

Right...
Just made up the final(ish) version of the dash light mount.

It weighs about .00005g so should improve the hp/kg ratio by about 15%.

dino3310

10th December 2007, 19:02

looks good mate,nice job:2thumbsup

deanohit

10th December 2007, 20:05

Blingin maaaan!

Thats a real tidy looking job you did the Nordie. :niceone:

Mole_C

13th December 2007, 12:36

Hmm synthetic oil or normal oil for the DR650 with 8000kms? Just brought 4L of Motul 3100 (normal) + filter and wondering if i should go back and change it for 5100 (part synth) or just bung it in?

NordieBoy

13th December 2007, 14:44

I'm using Total Racing 4T, 5L for $38.
2 complete changes out of one container :D

Some have noticed some more sounds and/or clutch issues with fully synth but technically you should be fine with fully synth.

NordieBoy

21st December 2007, 17:00

New tyre time today.
The first time I've ever put new front and rear tyres on at the same time :D

Officially they're Shinko SR244's but unofficially the front has identical writing except for the words "Golden Boy" instead of "Shinko" :woohoo:

cooneyr

21st December 2007, 20:09

NordieBoy

21st December 2007, 20:39

How long did the last shinko rear last you?
7000km with at least another couple of thou in it (all at 20-22psi) but I didn't want to risk that cut in the sidewall (that I got the day after it went on the bike) on the Dusty and today was the last day CycleTreads was open 'till the 8th.
It's now my emergency tyre.

The front IRC GP21 did just over 16000km (the last 7000 at 20-22psi) and I'll be getting another but they're not due 'till mid Feb.
It's not going to be an emergency tyre as it was pretty shot a couple of thou ago.

NordieBoy

22nd December 2007, 21:22

Went through the Maungatapu today.
20psi front and rear.
The back tyre was fine but the partially worn one was better (a bit much flexing in the knobs?).
The front didn't do anything wrong but didn't inspire confidence on the gravel.
I'll try 18psi next time and it may also have been the type of gravel and may just need getting used to.

NordieBoy

23rd December 2007, 17:01

Tried 18psi front and rear, felt a little better in the front and no difference in the rear.

I think I'll go with 18 front, 20 rear.
As it gets hotter it'll go up a couple of psi but one of the rockiest sections is at the start in the cold.

NordieBoy

20th January 2008, 16:03

I've been playing in Google Earth with tracks and trails and having a bit of fun.

Save <a href=http://photostorage.nelson.geek.nz/trails/trails.kmz>THIS</a> and open in Google Earth.

NordieBoy

23rd January 2008, 17:23

So my bike has now done 25000km and 455hours.
My 14t front sprocket lasted 6000km before it was poked (I'll find out what brand it was).
The previous one went about 20000km to a more poked level of pokedness.

I've been riding on a 15/43 combination since the Dusty and don't like it much.
Put a new JT 14t on the front just now.

NordieBoy

24th January 2008, 16:37

The 6000km life sprocket was a PBR.

Having a play with a modified 150 DynoJet mainjet now.
155 is too rich and 150 too lean so 152 or so should be good.
Need to play with needle positions now as it seems ok wide open but stumbles off idle slightly.

Transalper

24th January 2008, 17:35

NordieBoy

24th January 2008, 19:40

photo of what you consider poked?
You show me yours, I'll show you my JT 15 tooth with 10 000km on it.

I have the 15/43 combo and is my new favourite. The 14/43 just didn't work for me.
Every Mangatapu trip and the DB have been all on 15/43 for me. Did the Brass on 14/43 and didn't find it helpfull, although on the Mt Olympus trip I can be heard saying I'd like another gear lower at times, like a 13/44 might start to produce, think that's what Far queue uses in trail mode. Hate to ride that on the highway.

This is the really poked one. I'll have to dig out the other as it's almost pristine compared :D

I found on the 15/43 I was using the grunt and spinning up the rear up steep sections whereas with the 14t I'm able to go slower and cruise up without breaking traction so much (unless I want to).

timg

24th January 2008, 20:27

although on the Mt Olympus trip I can be heard saying I'd like another gear lower at times

Just be thankfull you wern't trying to carry a Transalp up there, and on road orientated tyres :sweatdrop:

Transalper

25th January 2008, 09:04

My hooks have nothing on yours Nordie...

NordieBoy

25th January 2008, 09:39

You nicked my PBR!
Mine isn't as worn but I can see in less than 1000km it'd be at that level.
But as I'm averaging 2000km per month 1000km isn't long.

NordieBoy

26th January 2008, 15:34

The 152(ish) main jet and clip 4th from top ran ok but was very hesitant/boggy off idle.
Changed to 3rd from top and it's better off idle but has an uneven idle now.

cooneyr

26th January 2008, 17:03

I compared my JT front sprocket with TA's today. We both put them on around late Oct/early Nov last year, TA has done 10300ish (as above) and I have done 4000ish. Mine is more worn than his by 25-50% I recon it is cause I didn't turn the scotty up enough when off road. Going to give it death i.e. heaps of oil from now on. Might even try 90w gear oil and just pump the stuff through when off road - will make a mess but what the hell. Going to do this in the hope that oil buggers off more i.e. doesnt stick so much and therefore takes the dust/dirt with it.

Cheers R

NordieBoy

26th January 2008, 19:08

Load it up with ATF.

warewolf

27th January 2008, 06:38

Mine is more worn than his by 25-50% I recon it is cause I didn't turn the scotty up enough when off road. Going to give it death i.e. heaps of oil from now on. Might even try 90w gear oil and just pump the stuff through when off road - will make a mess but what the hell. Going to do this in the hope that oil buggers off more i.e. doesnt stick so much and therefore takes the dust/dirt with it.Different chains or wear levels thereof?

Sounds like maybe you want to go for a thinner oil, not thicker (although 90W gear oil is about the same as 30W motor oil). Saw a recipe for scottoil being 20W engine oil diluted 3:1 with kerosene. More thin oil, flushing off the chain carrying the dirt with it? It's the constant flushing off of the grit that gives the scottie the advantage over an irregular thick coat of sticky spray lube.

cooneyr

27th January 2008, 08:37

Load it up with ATF.

Hmmmm???

Different chains or wear levels thereof?

Sounds like maybe you want to go for a thinner oil, not thicker (although 90W gear oil is about the same as 30W motor oil). Saw a recipe for scottoil being 20W engine oil diluted 3:1 with kerosene. More thin oil, flushing off the chain carrying the dirt with it? It's the constant flushing off of the grit that gives the scottie the advantage over an irregular thick coat of sticky spray lube.

Exactly the same chains EK MVXZ. Thinner or less stick to be more precise is the oil I was aiming for. The scott oil seems a bit like air filter oil to me - not very viscous but very sticky. I'm not sure that the scotty oil would be engine oil diluted - it is rather more sticky than that. I want something like a regular car oil that is not sticky and will just keep buggering off. I have plenty of 90w diff oil from 4wd days hence why going to give that a spin.

Also while talking to TA yesterday I think I'm going to stick with the D606 rear for one more round just to give it a fair shot at proving itself. Every time I've put one on I've taken it off again fairly quickly afterwards (as wanted to kill other tyres first etc) or it was the DB1k i.e. it got an absolute hammering. So to date I've not given it a fair run, hence will do this next round.

Cheers R

NordieBoy

27th January 2008, 09:18

Hmmmm???
I think it was on Visordown that a ScottOiler engineer piped up with the tidbit that they use a modified auto trans fluid.

NordieBoy

27th January 2008, 14:39

I lowered the needle to 2rd from top with the 152ish main jet today to try leaning it off. It needs the mixture screw wound right in to run properly.

It didn't run this rich with the 155 main, the needle 2nd from top and about 2.5 turns out on the mix screw.

My 152ish is definitly smaller than the 155.
I think I'll have to get another 150 (Can't find mine - it's not in my jets box).

NordieBoy

27th January 2008, 16:04

Hmmm...
I think the difference is that the 152ish jet is a modified Mikuni and it looks like they have a taper inside vs the DJ's flat and because of the taper the needle clears the jet sooner as it's lifting.

Or something.

Back to the 155DJ until I get another 150DJ to play with.

warewolf

28th January 2008, 07:45

Exactly the same chains EK MVXZ.Did both go on all-new sprockets etc? One old component of the three will cause premature wear.

Thinner or less stick to be more precise is the oil I was aiming for. The scott oil seems a bit like air filter oil to me - not very viscous but very sticky. I'm not sure that the scotty oil would be engine oil diluted - it is rather more sticky than that. I want something like a regular car oil that is not sticky and will just keep buggering off. I have plenty of 90w diff oil from 4wd days hence why going to give that a spin.That sounds like a good plan; 90W diluted 30% with kero. I didn't mean to imply genuine scottoil was 20W with kerosene, but rather that's a home-recipe substitute. Some people use their old sump oil in the scottie; don't know that I'd want all those by-products and wear particles etc being dumped on my drive train.

Scottoil shouldn't be too sticky. I've never noticed that characteristic, but haven't used one much in the dirt. I've got an old Motrax electric one that I'm going to fit up to the adventure, if I can be bothered.

I think it was on Visordown that a ScottOiler engineer piped up with the tidbit that they use a modified auto trans fluid.Highly modified. It was analysed in NZ during a shortage by a Shell engineer in order to find a close replacement - no can do! Way too many additives. One thing it does have, which may contribute to its stickiness - is something to make it wick/spread across the chain.

Transalper

28th January 2008, 08:15

Did both go on all-new sprockets etc? One old component of the three will cause premature wear.

...Think you will find when installing a new chain we both ALWAYS install new sprockets at each end too... so yes all new.

warewolf

28th January 2008, 08:19

Think you will find when installing a new chain we both ALWAYS install new sprockets at each end too... so yes all new.Me too. Man that's a big difference between you though, innit?

cooneyr

28th January 2008, 08:24

Did both go on all-new sprockets etc? One old component of the three will cause premature wear.

Yep - everything new. Replaced enough treadly bits to have learnt that lesson. Use to do about 4000kms+ a year on the treadly (for about 5 year) and was replacing stuff every 800-1000kms. Got bloody annoying so went and got a a Rohloff 14 speed hub (http://www.rohloff.de/en/products/speedhub/). Payed for itself now so I dont have to ride the bike anymore :D

That sounds like a good plan; 90W diluted 30% with kero. I didn't mean to imply genuine scottoil was 20W with kerosene, but rather that's a home-recipe substitute. Some people use their old sump oil in the scottie; don't know that I'd want all those by-products and wear particles etc being dumped on my drive train.

First lot of 90w in. Will report back in due course. Might get thinned but first round isnt. I'm pretty sure TA did most of his 10000 on road with a nicely oiled chain where as my 4000 was mostly off road and I wasnt using the scotty right. Chain was only just wet hence grinding paste not cleaning. Have had a chat with TA so am going to try the drown the barsted method for the next while.

Cheers R

Transalper

28th January 2008, 08:31

Hey.... I may have done half my 10343K on seal but I still done about 3000km in the dirt too, hard to say exactly but since I spend a lot of time chasing you around a lot of your dirt is shared by my chain... although I can think of a couple of rides I didn't get to... you guys at Big River for one.

cooneyr

28th January 2008, 08:41

warewolf

28th January 2008, 08:46

Got bloody annoying so went and got a a Rohloff 14 speed hub (http://www.rohloff.de/en/products/speedhub/).Nice :niceone:

I wasnt using the scotty right.If it's any consolation, the first 1.5 chains I ran with the Scottoiler only lasted as long as with spray lube. Two issues: leaks in the delivery hose causing it to stop dripping and the delivery nozzle hanging in the air meant the oil was being delivered to the wheel not the chain. Found & fixed the leaks, and positioned the dripper to deliver the oil to the side of the rear sprocket - as in, the nozzle resting on the sprocket, so the oil is flung off the sprocket onto the chain.

cooneyr

28th January 2008, 09:31

If it's any consolation, the first 1.5 chains I ran with the Scottoiler only lasted as long as with spray lube. Two issues: leaks in the delivery hose causing it to stop dripping and the delivery nozzle hanging in the air meant the oil was being delivered to the wheel not the chain. Found & fixed the leaks, and positioned the dripper to deliver the oil to the side of the rear sprocket - as in, the nozzle resting on the sprocket, so the oil is flung off the sprocket onto the chain.

Had a single sided delivery head and now have a twin. Oil is defiantly getting onto the sprocket and hence the chain - no leaks in the tubing. Just need to be a bit more liberal with the oil use I thinks.

Cheers R

GaZBur

29th January 2008, 19:34

I reckon transalpers sprocket is that bad because of dust. Here's a pic of my 15 tooth at 10,000Km and the wear is OK. Although you would expect a lot of wear to occur during racing it appears not. I would guess that a gravel road jaunt is far harder on machinery than a day on the track as I have hardly used it much in gravel.
As for NordieBoys sprocket - it's a trick. He has cunningly disguised his throwing stars as sprockets so we won't know he moonlights as a Ninja assasin!!!

NordieBoy

29th January 2008, 20:07

But that's an OEM one, made of the good stuff.

Nooo! Moonlight is bad! Moonless nights are better for us to... Um... Nothing to see here, move right along :whistle:

It makes a hell of a clunk when you throw it at the wooden fence though :D

cooneyr

30th January 2008, 07:48

I'm giving a factory sprocket a run this time rather than a JT. Was quoted $34 for the Suzi sprocket (which took two bloody weeks to arrive from Japan - why does nobody stock part??) which I had to pay for up front. When it arrived I got told I was misquoted and it is actually $53. I made a little bit of noise and got $5 or so off but still pissed me off. Anyway hopefully it will last a bit longer than the JT with proper oiling and being hopefully getter quality.

Cheers R

NordieBoy

30th January 2008, 08:39

Was quoted $34 for the Suzi sprocket (which took two bloody weeks to arrive from Japan - why does nobody stock part??

Cause everyone gets the JT ones :D

$34 does sound more like a JT sprocket price.

Crisis management

30th January 2008, 09:56

cooneyr

30th January 2008, 10:19

Somebodies ripping you guys off here......
I bought a genuine spewzuki 14 tooth front sprocket at the end of last year for $30.00 from the local dealer, infact the previous 15 tooth one was the same price (about a year ago).

For a small phenomenal fee I can ship anything you want?????

I love Colemans suzuki!

Me thinks thats where the initial quoted price of $34 came from. As for the final price well either the price has gone up (any body else want to buy one to confirm this) or I'm special :crazy::confused::shutup:

Cheers R

Crisis management

30th January 2008, 10:29

Your special Ryan.....

I checked with Colemans up here, $32.00 inclusive for a 14 tooth sprocket, a couple of days to deliver as it's ex Wellington.

I thought it was only us Jafas that got ripped off.

cooneyr

30th January 2008, 10:38

Your special Ryan.....

No need to tell everyone LOL

I checked with Colemans up here, $32.00 inclusive for a 14 tooth sprocket, a couple of days to deliver as it's ex Wellington.

I thought it was only us Jafas that got ripped off.

Damn - was going to get shitty and refuse to pay the extra cause I got a quote and paid for it before they even order it so as I understand it (consumer guarantees act) I don't have to pay the extra! Ya live and learn aye :doh:

Cheers R

NordieBoy

30th January 2008, 14:24

Got a TwinAir filter on the way.
Only 1 month to get here...

The OEM is starting to slowly fall apart.

NordieBoy

31st January 2008, 20:00

OK, it looks like I somehow upset the float level in the carb.
I just measured it at 12mm and it's meant to be 14.7mm so we set it to 15mm to be just on the lean side and it idles much better.
I'll run it for a tank and re-measure the level to see if it's still the same and drop a jet size to see what happens.

NordieBoy

1st February 2008, 20:54

GaZBur

2nd February 2008, 07:39

Good Luck with the beach race. Let us know how it goes!

NordieBoy

2nd February 2008, 17:22

Good Luck with the beach race. Let us know how it goes!

Went well...
I've got over 1000 photos to sort through though :apint:

I've got the FIRST BATCH (http://www.photostorage.nelson.geek.nz/sports/motorsport/dirt/20080202%20Rabbit%20Island%20Beach%20Races/index.html) up.

The samples below are a 1200cc 4WD quad and a 200cc WareWolf...

GaZBur

2nd February 2008, 21:13

Cool pics. 1000 to sort through!!! Bloody hell, nice varied bunch of bikes though. Anything spectacular or funny happen?

NordieBoy

2nd February 2008, 21:30

Anything spectacular or funny happen?

Yes .

warewolf

3rd February 2008, 08:42

Yes .:whistle:

:2thumbsup

chanceyy

3rd February 2008, 08:48

Went well...
I've got over 1000 photos to sort through though :apint:

I've got the FIRST BATCH (http://www.photostorage.nelson.geek.nz/sports/motorsport/dirt/20080202%20Rabbit%20Island%20Beach%20Races/index.html) up.

The samples below are a 1200cc 4WD quad and a 200cc WareWolf...

that first pic is definate calendar material .. hope to see it submitted for next yrs calendar :yes: :niceone:

GaZBur

3rd February 2008, 08:49

:whistle:

:2thumbsup

OK we get the picture - come on fess up! What happened?

warewolf

3rd February 2008, 17:23

OK we get the picture - come on fess up!I managed a rather spectacular dismount after crossing the line in Race 3. Headshake was a major issue, combined with worsening braking bumps between the finish line and the end-of-lap turn. The speedo was showing mid-high 130s (km/h) when I started braking, headshake ensued, then a huge bump that I'd never hit before, then the next bump sent me over the handlebars.

But! The bike then stabilised, I was face down on the front guard with no control of the bike, it wasn't slowing down, so I decided to bail off! I think the bike and I tumbled several times, not sure, I remember thinking "I hope that thing don't hit me!" but it did a few times, nothing major. When I was picking the bike up, one of the photographers said to me, "that was great! You were hanging over the front for so long I got heaps of photos!"

Powder-sand is the best thing I've crashed in so far! :2thumbsup

Haven't seen any photos yet. Stay tuned to this bat-channel...

NordieBoy

3rd February 2008, 18:14

That timing cable bump and the braking bumps after were wicked.
I only got one crash as it happened. Someone went very wide around the finish line corner and got into the water a bit much with the bike leaned over and lowsided. That's some 50m wider than the racing line :D

nerdneh

3rd February 2008, 19:09

I managed a rather spectacular dismount after crossing the line in Race 3. Headshake was a major issue, combined with worsening braking bumps between the finish line and the end-of-lap turn. The speedo was showing mid-high 130s (km/h) when I started braking, headshake ensued, then a huge bump that I'd never hit before, then the next bump sent me over the handlebars.

But! The bike then stabilised, I was face down on the front guard with no control of the bike, it wasn't slowing down, so I decided to bail off! I think the bike and I tumbled several times, not sure, I remember thinking "I hope that thing don't hit me!" but it did a few times, nothing major. When I was picking the bike up, one of the photographers said to me, "that was great! You were hanging over the front for so long I got heaps of photos!"

Powder-sand is the best thing I've crashed in so far! :2thumbsup

Haven't seen any photos yet. Stay tuned to this bat-channel...
You did amazingly well to survive that Colin, our sphincters are still sore from the long duration of living it with you . Certainly voted most skilled jobbie of the day.Hope your ok for tomorrows grass track.take care & good luck.

warewolf

3rd February 2008, 19:44

Well I wish I was as skilled as the chap in a later race that viciously tank-slapped his way all through the braking to the apex and stayed on :first:

Spent today RICEing the knee, now keen for tomorrow :sunny:

nerdneh

3rd February 2008, 20:02

Went well...
I've got over 1000 photos to sort through though :apint:

I've got the FIRST BATCH (http://www.photostorage.nelson.geek.nz/sports/motorsport/dirt/20080202%20Rabbit%20Island%20Beach%20Races/index.html) up.

The samples below are a 1200cc 4WD quad and a 200cc WareWolf...

Just been thru your pics Fran, ta a mill for sharing them with us. Did you post Port races?,if so where can they be found? See you @ grasstrack.

NordieBoy

3rd February 2008, 22:45

I've got about another 400 to go through and then I'll start removing duplicates/similar shots of the same riders.

The Port Race shots are HERE (http://www.photostorage.nelson.geek.nz/sports/motorsport/road/Nelson%20Port%20Races/index.html).

NordieBoy

3rd February 2008, 22:54

Went through the Maungatapu this afternoon and it's totally different from last week.

A digger has been through and almost every clay hole and rough bit on the way up from the first pylon track has been filled in and on the way down most sections have been done but it looks like they;ve just started as there are lots of nice sharp large rocks on the track where the digger has been pulling material off the banks to fill the tracks.

Jantar's Rock is no more :(
In fact that whole section where before you had to carefully pick your line is a loose dirt ride with some rocks in it.

It's as though a counciller had piped up and said "I've got a 4WD now, make sure I can get a Porsche Cayenne through will you. Oh, it's lowered as well."

Apart from the section to the first bridge on the Nelson side (still bad - yay!), any street 4WD with enough clearance for the loose rocks would have no problem and after a month or so and a bit more traffic and rain to settle it down it'd almost be like it was sealed :(

NordieBoy

13th February 2008, 21:02

All fixed...

When I changed the jet I must have bumped the float assembly.
It's only held in by small o-rings on 2 posts being pressed up into the carb body and if you bump the assembly it may come out slightly and as the o-rings are dry they won't seat again.
A tiny touch of engine oil later and it's idleing nicely.

But my jet is too lean so I've got to pull it apart tomorrow before the beach races and put the 155 back in :D

NOW it's fixed.
Turns out it was water getting down the choke cable and binding it up so the spring didn't have enough oomph to overcome the dodgy cable and the choke was staying on a bit.

Pulled the choke out of the carb, lubed/cleaned it a bit, crc down the cable, tape over where the water was getting in (obvious now - Doh!) and it idles perfectly about 2-3 turns out on the mixture screw.
Before the idle screw was all the way in and not having much effect...

:spanking: :2thumbsup

Transalper

13th February 2008, 21:31

NordieBoy

14th February 2008, 06:48

Shit Nordie, I just read this... man, you'd better get to work on it, my first suggestion is to drag the front brake to slow you down while spinning up the rear wheel as much as possible with a big knobby tyre to start making ruts to keep it interesting.

Those bstards! I hope you're wrong and it isn't 'just another road' for long.

I've got a photo of Jantar's Rock section on my phone that I'll post up for yez...

warewolf

14th February 2008, 08:47

Those bstards! I hope you're wrong and it isn't 'just another road' for long.I wouldn't fret, Carl. It only took 6 months to get cut up last time. Stayed good all through winter, then in a wet November the 4wds came out to play and started the whoops that you've been riding recently.

NordieBoy

22nd February 2008, 09:16

Just had a surprise package arrive from Jesse Kientz :D
Extended mixture screw, pull choke and valve adjusting kit.
$60US
$77.75NZ

NordieBoy

22nd February 2008, 09:16

I wouldn't fret, Carl. It only took 6 months to get cut up last time. Stayed good all through winter, then in a wet November the 4wds came out to play and started the whoops that you've been riding recently.

6 days this time :D

cooneyr

22nd February 2008, 09:41

Just had a surprise package arrive from Jesse Kientz :D
Extended mixture screw, pull choke and valve adjusting kit.
$60US
$77.75NZ

Drop the valve adjusting kit and what would it have been worth? Have been thinking about the screw and choke mods though I understand that you can just suffer hot hands for the screw and the choke mod is stock on a DR350 so can probably find one in NZ.

Cheers R

Crisis management

22nd February 2008, 11:25

Didn't know Jesse did so many bits for the DR.....

Whats in a valve adjusting kit? I just use a home made spanner (3mm?) for the valve adjustment - thin piece of 2mm steel with a slot filed in- that seems to work.

Mixture adjustment; again, a cut down screwdriver and the standard screw but you do need to be careful of engine heat. If you have large hands that might be a bit difficult.

I can see the need to loose the choke cable mind, they always seem to pack up after a few years and seize.

To complete your blinging out Nordie, you need cup holders!

NordieBoy

22nd February 2008, 14:46

The choke is about $11US and so is the mixture screw.

I've got a little "T" handle screwdriver that is fine but hot sometimes and the extended screw makes it just like the idle adjuster you can use while on the bike. Not so much of a problem in NZ but if you're getting massive elevation changes it'd be a lifesaver.

The choke is a bugger to get to but it's only once a day.
The local Suzuki shop couldn't find me a part number for a genuwine DR350 choke.

Valve adj kit...
<img src=http://www.kientech.com/DRValveAdjustingTool2.JPG>

Hopefully got a Garmin Quest on the way and then it's revalving the rear shock, maybe gold valve emulators in the front and a maybe 37mm FCR carb.
Then I may do the cup holders.

NordieBoy

22nd February 2008, 18:09

Well it isn't as bad as I was thinking...

The shed is on the left and the office on the right.
The shed is 2 DR's wide by 3.1 DR's long.

It'll do.

:cool:

twotyred

22nd February 2008, 18:21

you should be able to get 8 DRs in there... a prodigious quantity!

NordieBoy

22nd February 2008, 19:02

you should be able to get 8 DRs in there... a prodigious quantity!

1 DR is enough.

With room for the Nordwest, the other Nordwest, the XR250, the XR350 rolling chassis, the KDX non-rolling chassis.
The spare engines...

:scooter:

NordieBoy

26th February 2008, 19:42

Going offline now to shift house tomorrow and it'll probably be next Wed before it's back up again.

See you all later.

NordieBoy

28th February 2008, 07:02

Smurf teeth on the laptop so I'll make this short.
Shane came around last night because he wanted to check out my noisey tappets and found they were actually only just out of spec on the exhaust side.
When adjusting them he reckons the decompressor is activating nearer BDC than TDC which would explain the bike stopping at TDC sometimes when starting and the dash lights turning off.

Now I've got to find out if you can adjust/stuff it up by just doing the clearances as it seems I did when doing them for the Dusty Butt.

NordieBoy

28th February 2008, 07:03

Oh and the shed is full and the DR is sleeping outside at the moment.

Crisis management

28th February 2008, 08:03

When adjusting them he reckons the decompressor is activating nearer BDC than TDC which would explain the bike stopping at TDC sometimes when starting and the dash lights turning off.

Now I've got to find out if you can adjust/stuff it up by just doing the clearances as it seems I did when doing them for the Dusty Butt.

I'm interested in this Nordie, I have similar strange / struggling starting at times, lets compare notes when you get back on line.

Enjoy the moving!

Mole_C

2nd March 2008, 17:06

NordieBoy

3rd March 2008, 08:12

Got my full test on friday the 14th and wondering if you guys think the 4 drilled holes in the muffler will cause me any problems with the testers? Would suck to have to fork out more $ and wait longer just cause i have some holes :(

If it's not a noisey bike then it should'nt be an issue.
They're testing you not the bike but the bike does have to be to a warrantable standard.

Good luck :)

NordieBoy

9th March 2008, 21:44

<a href="http://photostorage.nelson.geek.nz/kml/rides/20080309 Mangarakau.kmz">Anatori capers with JATZ and Co...</a> (Google Earth track).
Well that was a fun ride.
Even better with the correct(er) tyre pressures eh guys :D
I ended up with 396km and 6:36hrs running time.
I have no idea whet the vibration was from but will replace the cushdrive bearing just in case.

JATZ

10th March 2008, 19:18

Have to agree, good ride,Mrs Jatz ran out of gas just as she pulled into the pub.Dont know how much I had left but there seemed to be heaps
I didn't realize what a prolific photo taker you were.
Should be another route coming your way for the adv site cooneyr,Good camping at the mouth of the Anatori river.\

Pic 1- some of the road
Pic 2- Anatori river mouth
Pic 3- fording the Anatori on Dr Big
Pic 4- more road
Pic 5- Nordieboy crossing the turamawiwi (big slippery rocks under there)

NordieBoy

10th March 2008, 20:31

I didn't realize what a prolific photo taker you were.

I actually took less photos than I would have liked to save your camera the death by dust mine suffered on the DB1k :innocent:

cooneyr

10th March 2008, 20:35

<a href="http://photostorage.nelson.geek.nz/kml/rides/20080309 Mangarakau.kmz">Anatori capers with JATZ and Co...</a> (Google Earth track).
....

Am I stealing the KMZ or can you send me a nice detailed gpx file :D

......Pic 3- fording the Anatori on Dr Big.....

Hows the big doctor going? Kinda curious as to what it is like?

Nice trip down there. Been down once in a 4x4 but must get back one day.

Cheers R

NordieBoy

10th March 2008, 20:52

Am I stealing the KMZ or can you send me a nice detailed gpx file :D

E-Mailed both but the GPX is 396km long type detailed :devil2:

NordieBoy

13th March 2008, 21:50

JATZ

14th March 2008, 06:28

Got my new 2nd hand Garmin Quest today :D
The City Navigator V2 and V3 CD's are unopened and will probably remain that way.

I can upload routes and maps to it and download waypoints/routes/tracks from it.

10000 trackpoint memory the same as my Legend and it does 254 waypoints per route vs 120 for the Legend.

So far I like...
Can you put marine charts on it, looking at getting one for the boat but if I can take it out and mount it on the bike all the better, also be good for going 4wding

NordieBoy

14th March 2008, 06:47

Can you put marine charts on it, looking at getting one for the boat but if I can take it out and mount it on the bike all the better, also be good for going 4wding

I haven't looked into it but you should be able to.
I know you can on the Legend with it's 8mb memory and the Quest has 112mb.

Transalper

14th March 2008, 07:17

Nice one Nordie, now I have been playing with the Legend HCx for a few weeks and am starting to get some idea what this gps thing is about it will be interesting to check your quest out next time we bump into you. Meen while there is a mystery geocache less than a block away I'm off to find.. if I worked out the puzzle correctly :sherlock: to get the right coordinates.

Gizzit

15th March 2008, 17:40

I haven't looked into it but you should be able to.
I know you can on the Legend with it's 8mb memory and the Quest has 112mb.

Hey Nordie, how do you get directions from the unit on the move ? Do you use a pair of earphones, or what ?

Cheers,
Grant.

NordieBoy

15th March 2008, 20:22

Hey Nordie, how do you get directions from the unit on the move ? Do you use a pair of earphones, or what ?

I look down at it occasionally when I'm getting near an intersection.

Normally I only use it for tracking not routing but in planning rides I can see routing becoming easier with the tools that are out there now.

tri boy

19th March 2008, 20:38

Bloody hell Fran, stop tituing around the new digs, and get back online:mad:.
It's been nearly 5 days mate. You getting all domesticatedededed or summit?:lol:

NordieBoy

20th March 2008, 08:35

Bloody hell Fran, stop tituing around the new digs, and get back online:mad:.
It's been nearly 5 days mate. You getting all domesticatedededed or summit?:lol:

Ok, ok, ok...

Got the Quest all mounted...

3mm plastic sheet bolted to the bar clamps.
GPSd mount bolted to the plastic - was going to use alloy but the plastic will give a bit of shock absorbtion and it's more in keeping with my style of doing things - hence the addition of some hotglue and a little bit of insulation tape :D

tri boy

20th March 2008, 09:21

Nice work.:sunny:

talbertnz

27th March 2008, 10:47

Ok, ok, ok...

Got the Quest all mounted...

3mm plastic sheet bolted to the bar clamps.
GPSd mount bolted to the plastic - was going to use alloy but the plastic will give a bit of shock absorbtion and it's more in keeping with my style of doing things - hence the addition of some hotglue and a little bit of insulation tape :D

http://www.dse.co.nz/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/47ead0aa00a78b2e273fc0a87f330718/Product/View/D4117

is that the one you got? doesn't say anything about waterproofness on dse site

NordieBoy

28th March 2008, 18:37

http://www.dse.co.nz/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/47ead0aa00a78b2e273fc0a87f330718/Product/View/D4117

is that the one you got? doesn't say anything about waterproofness on dse site

The Quest is IPX7 - 1m for 30min - Same as the eTrex range.

After going down to Dunnyden and back I like it a lot.

cooneyr

6th April 2008, 22:16

The hole should just make it respond quicker off the bottom.
It'll lift to the same levels just get there more quickly.

I'll send you down my stock needle, nylon spacer and extra spacery thing which let my de-snorkeled bike run nicely.
See if they make a difference from your very worn needle/spacer combo?

Still havn't pulled mine apart to see why it's so rich now...

Quoted from here (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showpost.php?p=1508596&postcount=74)

If it is lifting more quickly then the air velocity though the venturi will decrease hence the vacuum in the venturi will decrease hence it wont pull fuel out of the bowl so well hence it will lean out for a bit. Well that is my thinking anyway. I've got a couple of .5ish mm thick brass washers and I've stuck one between the nylon spacer and needle clip. Haven't had a change to test it like this (nephew was sleeping) but I'm hoping that it will fatten up the middle of the rev range a bit and fix the hiccup. I not keen on modifying any more than this at this stage so if none of this works before the CCA then I'll be putting it all back to stock.

Thanks for the offer of the needle but I'm not sure how well it will work with my bike. I defiantly have a yank model and the main difference is that they have different needles and needle jets. Cant hurt to try though.

Where do you have your pilot jet screw set at. I'm at 1.5 turns at the moment cause that is where it was out when I pulled it out. Seems to be lots of talk about number of turns and not so much about the turning it to see what gives you highest idle and then screw it out 1/4 of a turn (out = richer on a DR650 right) like for the "old school" bikes. Is this just because it is harder to turn the pilot screw with the bike running or ??????

Cheers R

NordieBoy

6th April 2008, 22:32

NordieBoy

6th April 2008, 22:38

Transalper

7th April 2008, 08:17

Been playing with MapEdit/cGPSMapper/MapSetToolKit/MapSource and have got a custom Adv mapset on my GPSd :D

Now to get some of your GPX's on there too Mr CooneyR...

So far all my trails are about 10kb on the GPSd.Yep, done similar, just gathered all gpx and gdb files relevant to the routes I wanted in the map in to a folder to be semi organised, then when ready selected the lot and dumped (dragged) them to Mapedit on a empty map that I set up.
Then select them all again and turned them all in to major highways or even more visible in to runways since I'm not trying to get the routing to work now.
Delete the underlying track logs and route files and hey presto.
Is actually fairly quick and easy in the end.
Now just need to organise the folder better now so as I haven't got any double ups and have used the best file for each route. So far I just done a quick dump and see I have some missing against coonyrs Adv Route web page.

cooneyr

7th April 2008, 08:24

Same needle and jets stock.

Mixture screw should be out until it's running smoothly.
Out to max revs is far too rich according to mx_rob and his sniffer.
I go out to max revs and back in 1/4 to 1/2 a turn.

You need the next page of the manual. I have 32E1 stamped on the carb which has the 6F23 needle (vs the 6F19) and the Y-5m needle jet (vs the Y-5).

Thanks for the info on the pilot jet screw.

Cheers R

NordieBoy

7th April 2008, 08:47

:o Hmmm...
Maybe sticking the Aus/NZ spec needle in will make a difference then?

cooneyr

7th April 2008, 08:55

:o Hmmm...
Maybe sticking the Aus/NZ spec needle in will make a difference then?

Can only hope :D

Cheers R

NordieBoy

12th April 2008, 15:38

Just finished stripping/cleaning/re-building the carb.
A little bit of white gunge from where the slide rubs against the plastic bits of the slide holder.
Everything else seemed fine.

Re-assembled with:
152 DJ main, needle 3rd from top, 15.2mm float height.

I'll just have to go for a sping through the Maungatapu to test it out...

:D

NordieBoy

15th April 2008, 07:47

The Dovedale side of Jacobs Ladder is now completely sealed :(

clint640

15th April 2008, 08:07

Just finished stripping/cleaning/re-building the carb.
A little bit of white gunge from where the slide rubs against the plastic bits of the slide holder.
Everything else seemed fine.

:D

I pulled the BST40 in the 640 down during the recent preventive maintenance session, there was a bit of gunge in there, not too bad considering the last time I pulled it out was to change the jets when I put the new can on at about 10 000 km. At 52 000 km the slide is getting a bit worn. I might order in a new one, & maybe a new needle & mainjet as they could be getting worn now too & they're not expensive.

I also took the plunge & drilled the vac ports in the slide out to 3mm, which seemed to give it a bit more 'BRAAP' but further testing is required.

Cheers
Clint

cooneyr

15th April 2008, 08:08

The Dovedale side of Jacobs Ladder is now completely sealed :(

Knew it. Probably wont be long and they will do the other side. Maybe next financial year. You don't seal half a hill and not the other when there is nothing accessing the road at the end of the new seal.

Cheers R

cooneyr

15th April 2008, 08:55

Been meaning to get somebody to check a hose routing for me. I had one hose I wasn't sure what to do with when I put the bike back together couple of weekends ago. One end had a hose clamp of sorts and the inside of the hose was clean, the other end of the hose had no clamps and was dusty inside. After scouring the manual I found a thing called the Air Vent Hose (see mid was down the attachment on the lhs). Found the spigot on the carb for it so stuck the hose on and ran it along the top of the air box as shown in the pic. From what I can figure this is a breather for the float bowl and it seems a little strange that there is no filtering on the hose.

Have I installed it right and is this something we should be trying to put a filter on?

Cheers R

Crisis management

15th April 2008, 09:30

Don't you love american bikes?
My DR doesn't have that feature, only the cv vent, a fuel overflow and a fuel line but I recall my previous DR (ex america) had a plethora of lines and I had the same problem trying to work out where they went.
If I recall correctly, there were a couple of lines that came out of the carburetor in various places that then just joined each other forming a loop of vent tubes (there was a right angle connector at the junction point). I remember doing the WTF? as I tried to work it out but ended up just stuffing them all back together and putting it down to a branch of science I didn't understand.
So, I think those extra vents are interconnected rather than lying around with open ends, try that and see if it looks like it should work.

Good luck!

NordieBoy

15th April 2008, 10:07

Mine had the same air vent hose and yes it just goes back and sits on top of the air box.

They only sealed the Dovedale side 'cause that's they've just started logging and they can access it all from that side.

NordieBoy

15th April 2008, 10:10

I also took the plunge & drilled the vac ports in the slide out to 3mm, which seemed to give it a bit more 'BRAAP' but further testing is required.

That should make the response quite... crisp.
May be more prone to airbox pressurisation induced surging/bogging in gusty conditions though?

Or not...

NordieBoy

15th April 2008, 10:12

talbertnz

15th April 2008, 11:46

mx_rob has his dyno charts up on ThumperTalk now and his numbers are pretty close to mine.
His whole graph is moved about 200rpm to the right and I've got slightly more torque down low but the FCR gives it instant response without any lag at all.

Makes me happier about the BST though :)

So you reckon that there's not much diff between bst and fcr with DJ thats cool! was trying to get hold of an fcr on tardme, first of all, hard to get and second, verry pricy upgrade, so not to sure now. what setup are you running at the moment? jets/exhaust/filter/airbox?
cheers.
how much-ish for dj kit?

NordieBoy

15th April 2008, 12:39

Big difference in feel.
The dyno operator apparantly thought the FCR was as close to fuel injection you were going to get with a carb.

Peak power and torque and the spread of power and torque are similar but little things like being able to ride a tooth higher on the front because it's so smooth.

If I could get an FCR39 off a YFZ450 quad (that's the one that suits the DR best) on EBay for $150us then I would probably do it.
Get it shipped to mx_rob and another $150us later you've got the best carb the DR can use.

The DynoJet kit was about $110 from a local shop.

152DJ main
DJ needle 3rd from top
Exhaust header weld ground out
Airbox top cut open
Carb spring shortened
2nd hole in carb slide
Stock exhaust with 4*11mm holes drilled in the end

Gives more power/torque with the SuperTrapp but too noisey...

talbertnz

15th April 2008, 12:55

talbertnz

15th April 2008, 12:59

Stock exhaust with 4*11mm holes drilled in the end

Ah any probs with WOF with that one? :doctor:

NordieBoy

15th April 2008, 14:13

It doesn't look too modified standing behind the bike and the noise level is still low.

If I did it again I'd go to 8mm holes. I didn't see any difference from 8-11mm.

<img src=http://www.photostorage.nelson.geek.nz/sports/motorsport/mybikes/DR650/20070926%20Exhausting%20work/slides/20070926-135714-000001.jpg>

Looks like the hot pipe for the DR is the 97-02 GSXR1000 pipe.
More torque and power than the FMF Q2 and cheap off e-bay.

GaZBur

15th April 2008, 14:44

It doesn't look too modified standing behind the bike and the noise level is still low.

If I did it again I'd go to 8mm holes. I didn't see any difference from 8-11mm.

...
Hmmm! Thanks for the pic NordieBoy. I have opened up my airbox and gone to the middle dynojet but think your holes idea better than trying to get the CBR600 can i have welded up. I shall get the drill out on Saturday.
:2thumbsup

NordieBoy

15th April 2008, 14:50

Hmmm! Thanks for the pic NordieBoy. I have opened up my airbox and gone to the middle dynojet but think your holes idea better than trying to get the CBR600 can i have welded up. I shall get the drill out on Saturday.
:2thumbsup

Do some 70-100kph 4th gear tests and get some numbers to compare to.

I started with 5mm holes and ended up with 11.
Also get some good stainless capable bits and drill slowly.

I've got about 6 knackered bits here because I didn't know this :D

twotyred

15th April 2008, 18:28

Looks like the hot pipe for the DR is the 97-02 GSXR1000 pipe.
More torque and power than the FMF Q2 and cheap off e-bay.

heres a look/listen to a GSXR1000 pipe on the DR :niceone:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_xgNqW1MvXQ

NordieBoy

15th April 2008, 19:03

Yep, Rob has done quite a bit of work on his DR :D
Have a look at some of his other vids.

GaZBur

16th April 2008, 20:20

timg

16th April 2008, 21:01

You were right the stainless is damn hard to drill!

Use a cutting oil, it makes a world of difference. CRC do one in a spray can or any engineering supplies store will have some. Cheers.

NordieBoy

17th April 2008, 08:03

Hi Nordie - another question if you don't mind. I started drilling the holes and noticed from the pic that you have gone through the second layer as well. I started the bike and gas was pumping out of the holes and I had not gone through the second layer yet. So does it make any big difference you think - should I keep drilling? I have only drilled smaller pilot holes so far, yet to get the 8mm bit out. You were right the stainless is damn hard to drill!
Just spent a couple of hours helping sort out Marks DRZ400 for Sunday Racing.

The end cap is just a cosmetic covering. You need to go through the inner one as well. The good thing is that if you don't like the effect you can bung some bolts and loctite into the holes.

Some just get a very long bit and drill out straight down the centre of the pipe but that's not very reverseable.

Use a cutting oil, it makes a world of difference. CRC do one in a spray can or any engineering supplies store will have some. Cheers.

Good quality bit, cutting oil and slow :D

GaZBur

17th April 2008, 21:36

Thanks for the tips guys. Didn't have any cutting oil but I only stuffed one drill bit. 4 x 8mm holes drilled and you were right - the slower you can get the drill to go the better it bites. Not ridden it yet but noticed already that if you suddenly rip the throttle open from a fully closed position there is no initial half second lag before the revs build like it used to! So thats a good start.
What do we need - More Power!

NordieBoy

18th April 2008, 08:15

:woohoo:

Raise the needle a mm or so, grind the header weld, remove the snorkle and drill the pipe.

The good cheap almost reversable mods.

The 2nd hole in the carb slide also helps throttle response (lets more air in to lift the diaphram - or is it lets more vacuum act to lift the slide?).

talbertnz

18th April 2008, 15:40

i've got 4 pretty holes in the pipe as wel now and realy need to do something about the jetting!!! used 4mm first then 8mm. and yes 3 drill bits later.. hehe..
"there is no initial half second lag before the revs build " Yep thats what I find as well! Got a surprise 1st gear roll on wheelie this morning ... front wheel only came down just in time for me to use the front brake and not crash into some cars phew... Thanks Nordie!!

Transalper

18th April 2008, 17:38

So how are the holes going to affect the spark arresting properties of the muffler, especially when going through a scrutineering for an event requiring spark arresters?

NordieBoy

18th April 2008, 18:37

Borrow one of CooneyR's strainers and a biiiiiig hose clamp for the arrester.

Talbert, raise the needle just a touch (1mm or so) esp if the snorkle is off the airbox.

NordieBoy

18th April 2008, 18:50

I'm finally getting somewhere with my carb issues.
Very boggy down low and running very rich with jetting that should be slightly leaner than optimal.

Float levels...
The metal tab to adjust the float levels is basically being allowed to move around a bit on it's mount and adjusting the level as it wants and not as I want.

NordieBoy

21st April 2008, 08:21

8000km on the Shinko SR244 tyre set now and the rear is down to maybe 2-3mm in the middle.
The front is... well... not showing any wear at all really :D

NordieBoy

7th May 2008, 09:35

Finally swapped out the rear Shinko SR244 for a half worn TW42 off a Trumpy hire bike.
The Shinko is down to about 1.5-2mm in the centre and 3mm on the side of the centre knobs (14.3mm new).

Got a slow leak in the front some time coming back from the MX on Sunday as on Monday morning it was flat. Pumped it up and it was only losing 8psi per hour so booked in for a tube/tyre change at 2pm Tuesday.

Of course on Tuesday it was dropping 15psi between petrol stations :D and as my 1st job was an hour long it was flat but luckily the client had a small compressor :clap: Rode home with only 1 top-up and bunged some blue tyre goo in. I could hear it bubbling out from somewhere very close to the valve stem. That stuff really works well :woohoo: Not even a .5psi drop in the next 3 hours.

The tyre had walked on the rim (no rimlock on the front) which is weird 'cause I don't run less than 25psi in the front on the road.

The front Shinko SR244 is down to 9mm from the new depth of 14.3mm.

Both Shinko tyres have done 9410km.
Not the best grip in the world but a nice tyre that only washed on the front when running >20psi on gravel and the rear slid quite easily but was very predictable and smooth.

Next tyre set will be a pair of IRC GP110's.

NordieBoy

7th May 2008, 20:01

Well I don't like the TW42 as a rear tyre off road.
It's fine in the gravel but the compound is just too hard.
The E-07 and to a lesser extent the Shinko 244 would grip nicely ideling up (2600rpm) a steep hardpack rocky incline whereas the TW42 is breaking loose and spinning up all of the time.
Same on the downhills where it wanders around under engine braking.

I want to try some IRC GP110's just to see what they're like.

I really liked the IRC GP21F front though so may end up with a GP110 on the back and GP21 on the front.