The DR650 thread

[pomgolian]

Neutral switch loctite mod done yesterday took about 3 hours, mine a 2009 with 28k had screws in the switch no loctite so swapped them for allen bolts the same length and loctited in. The plate screws same no loctite so removed & secured.

All four screws were tight enough and had that little snap as you undo them but now i know they aint gonner come out so good piece of mind, also cover gasket came off in one piece stuck to the cover so used the old gasket, clutch plates looked in surprisingly good condition.:niceone:

[Eddieb]

Neutral switch loctite mod done yesterday took about 3 hours, mine a 2009 with 28k had screws in the switch no loctite so swapped them for allen bolts the same length and loctited in. The plate screws same no loctite so removed & secured.

What are the screw specs? this is on my to-do list and I wouldn't mind replacing them with allen head screws as well.

[pomgolian]

What are the screw specs? this is on my to-do list and I wouldn't mind replacing them with allen head screws as well.

Sure someone will chirp in with the sizes, i had the switch allen bolts left over from something else, the plate screws are odd with a wide thread compared to head size. The factory tightening spec would be tiny so loctite is more than ample.

[Mo NZ]

I want higher bars. Im 6'2" and want to stand up on the pegs and ride without having to crouch.
I do not want to change any cables etc.
How high can I go. Pro taper evo's ? or get atv.

[NordieBoy]

I want higher bars. Im 6'2" and want to stand up on the pegs and ride without having to crouch.
I do not want to change any cables etc.
How high can I go. Pro taper evo's ? or get atv.

These mounted ok...
<img width=640 src="http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/DR650/20101222 Fixing Hand Guard and New Bars/slides/20101223-161744-0003.jpg">

<img width=640 src="http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/DR650/20101222 Fixing Hand Guard and New Bars/slides/20101223-174250-0010.jpg">

[Eddieb]

I want higher bars. Im 6'2" and want to stand up on the pegs and ride without having to crouch.
I do not want to change any cables etc.
How high can I go. Pro taper evo's ? or get atv.

Thats tall. I'm ~5'9" and have 50mm bar risers and bars with a slightly higher rise than stock, maybe 5mm more and the stock cables just worked, though I had to re route a couple so they weren't tight at full lock. I also have 25mm lowering blocks and I can pretty much stand up straight.

[Night Falcon]

These mounted ok...

<img width=640 src="http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/DR650/20101222 Fixing Hand Guard and New Bars/slides/20101223-174250-0010.jpg">

cool, ya don't many bikes with ape-hangers anymore :headbang:

[Mo NZ]

What bars are they?

BTW Yes I am only 6'2'' and weigh about 110kg and fittish.
I make a Bonnie look like a nifty50.
So I would like a little more room on this wonderfull DR I have.

[NordieBoy]

What bars are they?

BTW Yes I am only 6'2'' and weigh about 110kg and fittish.
I make a Bonnie look like a nifty50.
So I would like a little more room on this wonderfull DR I have.

6'2" and 90kg here...
They're Zeta SX3's as far as I can recall. They're actually about 5cm taller than they need to be, but that makes it really nice for standing.

[NordieBoy]

cool, ya don't many bikes with ape-hangers anymore :headbang:

You should see my highway pegs and sissy bars...

[Mo NZ]

Just thinking with some bars like that I may be able to see something behind me rather than my arm.:laugh:

I am going to try to work out how high I can get my bars without replacing cables and find a bar to fit.

I dont know much about bars and is there any I should not buy?

[NordieBoy]

If they're chrome or have tassels, leave them to the KLR riders...

[NordieBoy]

Renthal do a good classic MX bend that is a good height and feel. Padmei has sets on his KLX and Bimmer. They are normal bars with a cross bar.

[Mo NZ]

Cheers
Dang to tassels. Thats funny.

[Waipukbiker]

Ok, change of subject to Vibranators, can you get then in NZ? Can you use them with barkbusters?

Cheers

[NordieBoy]

Ok, change of subject to Vibranators, can you get then in NZ? Can you use them with barkbusters?

Cheers

No, yes.

Well, by "no", I mean yes.

You can get them in NZ, via Ricor in the states.
http://www.vibranator.com/

[driftinglobo]

Hi Guys,

I have been lurking for a while now so it is time to intro my self. And at the same time ask for some advice.
I have a '03 dr650 and lately it started not to start.If the bike in neut. side stand up / or down does not matter,clutch in neut light on , push start button..... and a big fat nothing.
Then if i put it to gear move it a bit then out of gear and she start as she should.
Has anybody had anything similar?
She is due for an oil change so I'm going to check the NSU screws. is there anything I should look for while in there or this starting issue is "normal"?
Thanks for the help.

Lobo.

[NordieBoy]

Doesn't sound like the clutch, stand switches or nsu.

If the neutral light is on then the NSU is in place (still needs checking and loctiting).

[driftinglobo]

Doesn't sound like the clutch, stand switches or nsu.

If the neutral light is on then the NSU is in place (still needs checking and loctiting).


So any idea?

[Mushu]

Kind of sounds like the starter solenoid, I'm pretty new to bikes myself and haven't had any starting problems yet with mine so haven't pulled out a starter yet but my old ET pulsar had the same problem (wouldn't start and the only way to get the starter to work was to put it in gear and get out and rock it back and forth a bit), I fixed it by replacing the starter motor.

Sent from my XT535 using Tapatalk 2

[NordieBoy]

So any idea?

Does it give a "click" from the solenoid?

Could be sticky starter motor brushes?

Waterblasted at all?

[bart]

So any idea?

Ahhhhh.....I know what it is. It’s fucked. Buy a new one.





OK, I know, not helpfull.:bleh:

[Waipukbiker]

you say it works after you put it into gear then back into neutral, is this correct?

[pomgolian]

Nice one Bart :rolleyes:

Check power at the starter when it does the problem, if there is power there its most probably the starter at fault (but could still be mechanical) if not work back to the solenoid checking power across the solenoid. Either a multimeter or test light, test lights are better to start with as they show load not just voltage.

If in doubt get an electrician to check it as fires can be very bad :nono::nono:

[driftinglobo]

Ahhhhh.....I know what it is. It’s fucked. Buy a new one.





OK, I know, not helpfull.:bleh:


Well she is the new one :) :clap:

And yes, after I put it into gear and move her forward a bit then out of gear she will start good.
No click, nothing, just a big fat nada, no movement, no sound, as if the kill switch were pushed in.
Thanks for all the input now it is time to go and play a bit. FUFOF (fiddle until f..k or fix)
I will let you know if I get an answer.
Cheers:
Lobo.

[Box'a'bits]

I have a BMW, not a DR, but the same principals apply.

Check / bypass the clutch lockout switch - stops you starting in gear. Sometimes there are 2 one from the gear cluster & then another from the clutch. Safety crap to stop you starting without being in neutral or having the clutch pulled in.

Check or remove the sidestand switch.

May not be the starter at all.

Got a wiring diagram?

[GSers]

I have a BMW, not a DR, but the same principals apply.

Check / bypass the clutch lockout switch - stops you starting in gear. Sometimes there are 2 one from the gear cluster & then another from the clutch. Safety crap to stop you starting without being in neutral or having the clutch pulled in.

Check or remove the sidestand switch.

May not be the starter at all.

Come on guys stop these bad work habbits. Dont start in the middle then you have 2 directions to move in. Start at one end and move forward. You have 2 circuits 1 Main Battery Supply 2 control circuit and 3 the starter itself. This can be sorted in 2 minutes deciding where the problem is. Go to starter with a test light and a jumper cable. Test light connected to a good earth on the motor. Is there power on the main battery supply? yes/no. Is there power on the solenoid power wire with side stand up or clutch or in neutral key on press starter button yes/no. Now take your jumper wire make sure bike is in neutral connect it to the main battery wire on the starter and then across to the solenoid wire. Does the starter crank the engine? yes/no
You should now have an answer to whether it 1,2 or 3
Didn't Waipuk Biker have the same issue on his bike his was fairly new.
And by the sound of it if you are in anyway moving the starter from where it has stopped and it then works it sounds like an internal starter problem ie: worn out or sticky brush's worn/burnt out winding/comutator segement.

GOOD LUCK

GSers

[pomgolian]

Yep as i said GSer check the power at the starter first & work back if no power, but it does sound like a starter problem, disconnecting or bypassing switches that are working as many DR owners are doing seems crazy to me they are there for a reason and if you have ever ridden off with the side stand down & leaned to the left you will know what i mean. Different if your off round the world and parts are hard to find.

My two peneth only

[Waipukbiker]

One easy way to check the starter is to use a single jumper lead, connect one end directly to the starter terminal then with the positive terminal on the battery exposed, push the other end fast and hard against the terminal. This bypasses the whole electrical system so if the starter works fine then you can start fault checking the rest of the electrical system.

I dont see how rocking the bike in gear is going to do anything, the starter cannot be turned by the engine because the starter clutch freewheels when turned by the engine.

[GSers]

I dont see how rocking the bike in gear is going to do anything, the starter cannot be turned by the engine because the starter clutch freewheels when turned by the engine.

Starter clutch's are sprag clutch's it only works in one direction.

GSers

[butcherboy]

do the lams aproved bikes dr650 have a different cdi or are they all the same

[Waipukbiker]

The DR650 in its standard form for the NZ market is LAMS approved.

[Box'a'bits]

Matt Kerr pointed this engine for sale (http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/complete-engines/auction-594389225.htm) over on Trademe. Might be helpful if anyone is having issues (especially with 3 gear). No affiliation with the seller etc.

[dino3310]

should post it on the KLR thread to, they would save that $1600 in all the extra oil they would normally use in a year

[NordieBoy]

Asked NordieBro if it was a good deal and the txt reply was "YES!!" :laugh:

[Aslan]

so you snapped it up Fran - looked good to me - at my age I think I'll expire before the motor in my DR - I was interested however - this'll be the second additional motor you've purchased for your DR - obviously not thinking of quitting them yet :) Cheers S

[NordieBoy]

so you snapped it up Fran - looked good to me - at my age I think I'll expire before the motor in my DR - I was interested however - this'll be the second additional motor you've purchased for your DR - obviously not thinking of quitting them yet :) Cheers S

That motor is only 10,800km old.
That's only 6 months for me. It's just run in.

The current engine is at about 90,000km and in need of a freshen up, which would be $800 odd anyway.

Couldn't say no :rolleyes:

I'll have to do the steering bearings too, it's been 2 years since they started annoying me :laugh:

[gav24]

Hey, it looks like my faithful dr has a bit of maintenance coming up... 2 new tyres, start of a squeal on the starter motor, might as well check the neutral sensor as well, but also a fork seal has just started leaking...
So without trawling through heaps of previous threads anyone have any suggestions on a basic improvement to the ultra squishy front forks? I'm probably gonna put in some spacers to reduce the static sag and put in heavier oil. Any suggestions on weight, levels and spacer sizes. I'm about 70kg and ride fairly hard on everything from trail rides to commuting.
Don't want to spend $$ on springs, intimators, gold valves etc just a basic improvement as the bike will be apart anyway for new seals.....

[NordieBoy]

I got a leaky fork seal a few years ago. A swipe around with a feeler gauge has fixed it so far.
Some 10mm spacers and 10w oil to 140mm from the top maybe?

[gav24]

Thanks, sounds like a plan.
Was gonna try the feeler gauge first before spending any money, might just be a bit of rrrr grit left behind. Embarrassed to say not cleaned it yet:facepalm:

[bart]

Thanks, sounds like a plan.
Was gonna try the feeler gauge first before spending any money, might just be a bit of rrrr grit left behind. Embarrassed to say not cleaned it yet:facepalm:

Dont worry...went for my first ride since the RRRR today...and even cleaned it.

[JATZ]

That motor is only 10,800km old.
That's only 6 months for me. It's just run in.

The current engine is at about 90,000km and in need of a freshen up, which would be $800 odd anyway.

Couldn't say no :rolleyes:

I'll have to do the steering bearings too, it's been 2 years since they started annoying me :laugh:

It looks like I'll be driving south from Aucktown the weekend after Q.B. weekend, if you want it picked up.
......Or anything else for that matter... I'll have a bit of space :D

[NordieBoy]

It looks like I'll be driving south from Aucktown the weekend after Q.B. weekend, if you want it picked up.
......Or anything else for that matter... I'll have a bit of space :D

Going past Palmy?

[Mushu]

It's time to sell the DR650, I'm off to Australia and as much as I'd like to take it with me it just wouldn't be financially viable. I'll be sad to see it go.

It's a K7 with a little over 15000ks it has current rego and warrant and it's got:
Motard wheels (off an RGV I think and the normal wheels)
B&B bash plate
BarkBusters VPS hand guards
DG exhaust (standard one too)
Trailtech Vapor
And a few spares / service parts including spare brand new fuel tank (the one on it has a couple of small scratches and a small dent)

If anyone here is interested send me a PM otherwise it goes on tardme


Sent from my XT535 using Tapatalk 2

[NordieBoy]

How to fine tune the DR front suspension...
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[gav24]

On that subject, over the weekend I put new seals in my dr's forks and then followed nordies advice and went with 10 wt oil set to 140 mm from the top - fully compressed, no springs. Was gonna add the extra preload 10mm spacers but I had nothing to hand so didn't bother. I may turn some up from "borrowed" ally at work and add them later...
The difference is amazing, well maybe not amazing, but the soggy sponge standard feel is gone and a much firmer ride is there in its place. Not hard or harsh, way more feedback and a much higher front end when braking.
If you're a cheap ass dr650 rider (like me) and want a big improvement in your suspension then do this mod.
10 wt oil, 140mm from the top.
Who needs intimatoronical gold valves stackers? Not me! I'm so cheap! - and easily pleased...

[NordieBoy]

Now don't ride a DR with *nators if you're happy with your setup :shutup:

[pomgolian]

How to fine tune the DR front suspension...
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Funny as F*** found myself chuckling out loud wife thinks ive gone mad Castrol GTX as well !!!!!

[bart]

Funny as F*** found myself chuckling out loud wife thinks ive gone mad Castrol GTX as well !!!!!

That guy must have a hidden camera in my shed. That’s Bart style bike maintenance.:laugh:

[R650R]

Back when I was a newbie biker I changed a fork seal myself and refilled the forks on my FZR250R right to the top!!! airgap whats that????
Lucky I realised before I peeled out of driveway... Solution, wheel bike around side of house, loosen bleed screw, pump for couple times then tighten her up.
Sold it to my brothers mate down the road who rode it like he stole it every time... he didn't crash so guestimate must have been close enough lol !

[gpcustom]

:msn-wink: Looks like I might be the supplier of Dr650 bash plates to Red Baron Motorcycles in lower Hutt :drinkup::wari:

[k1w33d]

:msn-wink: Looks like I might be the supplier of Dr650 bash plates to Red Baron Motorcycles in lower Hutt :drinkup::wari:

I have just ordered my dr650 through red baron Lower Hutt. They said the bash plate was coming from Christchurch. Is that you?

Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk 2

[ducatilover]

Do any of you chaps have a kick start lever floating around you'd want to sell? Early DR650/600 etc

[gpcustom]

I have just ordered my dr650 through red baron Lower Hutt. They said the bash plate was coming from Christchurch. Is that you?

Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk 2

Lol yep id say so as that's where ive just sent one:shit: But Dunedin not CHCH

[Eddieb]

Whats the current recommended setup for front forks with .47 Eibach springs, 10 weight oil 140mm from the top?

I'm thinking of pulling my DRZ 250 cartridge forks off and putting the stockers back on, The cartridge forks have more adjustment than I know what do with. They might well end up on trade me with the custom caliper hanger I had made up as it's a bolt on upgrade.

[NordieBoy]

Whats the current recommended setup for front forks with .47 Eibach springs, 10 weight oil 140mm from the top?
Sounds about right.
Not sure what preload I was running with that setup though. Probably stock equiv.

[ArgoBloke]

Hi all,
long time lurker, first time poster here.
This is my bike:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-CRI5Ea0m4Cw/UdOF6Z0MPaI/AAAAAAAAAfk/kL4yIDA7P4w/w832-h624-no/20130629_135808.jpg
Got my hands on a second hand Keihin FCR 39 (I think it came from a KTM rather than Yamaha) and I'm going thru it at the moment. I've been in the MX Rob threads, and I'm trying to understand what I need to do to mount it on my DR650.
Can anyone give any advice about putting this on the DR? I believe I need an adapter??? Is there an easy way of getting hold of one?
Also, looks like the slow air jet is stuck and has been stripped....any idea where I could get a replacement?
Any advise will be appreciated....
Cheers,
AB

[badlieutenant]

Hi all,
long time lurker, first time poster here.
This is my bike:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-CRI5Ea0m4Cw/UdOF6Z0MPaI/AAAAAAAAAfk/kL4yIDA7P4w/w832-h624-no/20130629_135808.jpg
Got my hands on a second hand Keihin FCR 39 (I think it came from a KTM rather than Yamaha) and I'm going thru it at the moment. I've been in the MX Rob threads, and I'm trying to understand what I need to do to mount it on my DR650.
Can anyone give any advice about putting this on the DR? I believe I need an adapter??? Is there an easy way of getting hold of one?
Also, looks like the slow air jet is stuck and has been stripped....any idea where I could get a replacement?
Any advise will be appreciated....
Cheers,
AB
Hey Argo, you have the same headlight as me, oh wait, yours is the HID version ?
Im in the process of fitting a fcr as well so Ill be interested in what you do too.

[Eddieb]

The FCR makes quite a difference in how the bike responds

[ArgoBloke]

Hey Argo, you have the same headlight as me, oh wait, yours is the HID version ?
Im in the process of fitting a fcr as well so Ill be interested in what you do too.

I dont think it's the HID, a rather cheap version I found to replace the stock one....i didnt find it much better than stock I must say...:no:

[badlieutenant]

I dont think it's the HID, a rather cheap version I found to replace the stock one....i didnt find it much better than stock I must say...:no:
Yer Im guessing its about the same. Mine didnt come with the clear screen :/ To improve its output apparently you hook up a relay and bypass the standard loom wiring. And maybe a brighter bulb ? Im not sure I would want to use the low beam at night. I know I didnt with the stock one :/

[badlieutenant]

The FCR makes quite a difference in how the bike responds

yer Im rather looking forward to it :D have you had one fitted eddieb ?

[Waipukbiker]

Re the Headlight, I fitted the HID kit from procycle and added a separate light switch and a relay. Its a very white light and the beam spread is wider and a lot brighter than stock.

[Eddieb]

yer Im rather looking forward to it :D have you had one fitted eddieb ?

Yep, fcr39 with partially opened airbox & TL1000 pipe and custom midpipe by Phreaky Phil, 15/43 gearing.

[Eddieb]

I spent a while yesterday tracing a failure to start issue on the yellow DR650, after checking the stand and clutch switch I pulled the spark plugs and they are stuffed, no spark at all but when I put in an old plug from my toolbox that sparks quite happily.

I tried to source replacement CR10E plugs today and none out of 2 Repco's and 2 SuperCheap stores have them stock. The other thing was Repco was quoting $35 per plug! and they wonder why people are buying so much online. These are a $9US each plug in the states.

I'll have to try the Suzuki dealer tomorrow.

[Mo NZ]

I looked at Repco and they were $35 or so .:gob: :ar15::crazy: They still have them.
I went down the road to our local Suzuki dealer and got them for a sensible price, cant quite remember but $10 or so.

[NordieBoy]

I use the NGK Iridium's.

[fridayflash]

i like the look of these 'up and forward' handlebar clamps...only suit 22mm tho

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=614643770

[Mo NZ]

Here ya go
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/performance/auction-614643770.htm

Oops Looks like the same. Dr have 7/8 bars I thought.

[ducatilover]

7/8s is 22mm :niceone:

[TangoCharlie]

Anyone of you motard riders out there got a set of standard DR wheels ya want to sell?
After a set of 21 / 17 to use for my 100% road tyres...
Or perhaps an old blown DR to wreck???

[fridayflash]

Here ya go
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/performance/auction-614643770.htm

Oops Looks like the same. Dr have 7/8 bars I thought.

yep, i run 7/8 (22mm) bars too so would suit me although a lotta guys like the big fat bars

[Mo NZ]

I have some bars off a Blizzard. +8". Im 6'2" and can stand all the way up without having to crouch.
They are Renthal with a brace. They are 22mm or 7/8

[fridayflash]

whats a blizzard mate? and are your risers 8" ? golly!
it does feel good to have the extra height thats for sure

[dino3310]

8" risers:shit: did you have to get longer cables.
could almost use mini ape hangers at that height:laugh:

[Mo NZ]

A Yammi Quad. Stock mounts. Total of 8+ all up.
I also run some barkbusters that fit on ok.
Real comfy for me. The stock were awful compared to these for me.

Edit I had to re-route the clutch. Everything else fitted up ok.
easy pezie

[Mo NZ]

Nordie put up a photo , sort of similar a few pages back.
I fit up the tassles next week. I will rock man.,:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:

[badlieutenant]

If anyone out there is umming or ahhing about a pumper carb for your dr (fcr-mx) just do et. Its like buying a new bike.
Just fitted/tuned mine today and what a difference.
I need to buy a fuel mixture screw so I can stop burning my hands tweaking the stock one, anyone here have a suggestion for type and place to get one from ? Ive seen a lot of the alloy ones but have no idea if they are good. suggestions plz......... :D

[pomgolian]

Think so just doing some extended testing as it ran kinda OK from bay view to home after sitting in a bloody tow truck for hours, so dont want to jump the gun thinking its fixed but did blast down to the Tuki bridge then up & down the peak and to work and back today so think it is.

I was convinced it was the coil in Tolaga but didnt want to strip Grants DR to that extent which still wouldnt have helped anyway, no coils in Gizzy, got it home did a few tests with the meter and the coil check plug lead to plug lead should have been 25k ohms but i had 35 not that out but after removing the plug caps and measuring them individually one was normal 9k the other 85k ohms, two new water tight caps from Barry's Motorcycles and the plug to plug reading was correct and it runs great. Suspect the resistor in the cap went open circuit and the lead shorted to earth somewhere dragging the coil down under load and cutting out the engine.

Hope i havnt jinxed it but will have to keep testing it to be sure guess i should post this in the DR section as well - when are you fit to blast the beaches again ?

[Bluft]

Gidday guys. I'm after a newish DR650 if anyone knows of a good one for sale. I may even be keen on doing a trade of some description with a KTM 990 adventure if anyone wanted to move to the dark side.
If you know of any thing flick me a PM.

[Mo NZ]

Gidday guys. I'm after a newish DR650 if anyone knows of a good one for sale. I may even be keen on doing a trade of some description with a KTM 990 adventure if anyone wanted to move to the dark side.
If you know of any thing flick me a PM.

http://www.holeshotmotorcycles.co.nz/details.asp?vehicle_id=1794231

[fridayflash]

Gidday guys. I'm after a newish DR650 if anyone knows of a good one for sale. I may even be keen on doing a trade of some description with a KTM 990 adventure if anyone wanted to move to the dark side.
If you know of any thing flick me a PM.


newish one i dont have...but ive got a ten year old one to sell cheap hehe!

[badlieutenant]

cheap upgrade to the forks for someone :D
http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.asp?id=628636671&cc=602&pid=262727797&hbc=&ct=link

[Eddieb]

cheap upgrade to the forks for someone :D
http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.asp?id=628636671&cc=602&pid=262727797&hbc=&ct=link

Thats what I have on mine. You do need to make up a bracket to space the caliper out 20mm as the 350 uses a smaller disc than the 650. Otherwise it bolts straight up. I've put Eibach .47 DR650 springs in mine as the stock 350 springs are slightly lighter than the 650 springs which are already too soft.

[badlieutenant]

Thats what I have on mine. You do need to make up a bracket to space the caliper out 20mm as the 350 uses a smaller disc than the 650. Otherwise it bolts straight up. I've put Eibach .47 DR650 springs in mine as the stock 350 springs are slightly lighter than the 650 springs which are already too soft.

I did the rm250 mod, paid the same as these ones and they needed the same work with caliper adapter. Bloody cheap suspension upgrade and even if you dont have new springs at the very least you could drop your 650 springs in. I did with the rm forks, worked mint (I suspect that my bike had the heavier springs in front as the rear did already)
I haven't tried the front fork solution that procycle offers but I would think a decent cartridge fork would be better for your handling, more mucking around tho.

[Okey Dokey]

Mr OD just got this bike, and his initial impressions are that the first gear is very "tall"

In traffic he had to ride the clutch a lot and felt that he couldn't release it until the bike was going about 20k. He intends to go off the beaten track, but doesn't want to race through river crossing at 20k, or ride the clutch all the time. He also commented that it can go 45k in first gear.

So...is this the usual set up, or do riders prefer to re-gear (sorry, not sure of the correct term)

Advice or thoughts on this most appreciated, thanks!

[fridayflash]

hi, yep the dr650's are geared quite high as stock with a 15 tooth front sprocket and a 41 tooth on the rear, fitting a 14 tooth to the front will help right away, i like offroad and trails where poss and run 14/44 which is obviously much lower than stock but still fine at open road speeds...even up to 150 kph:devil2:

[Okey Dokey]

Thanks, fridayflash, that is just the sort of thing he wanted to know. I will pass the message on!

[k1w33d]

While we are on the subject, the plate that holds the original sprocket is apparently too big for the 14t sprocket. The adaptor@ procycle is reasonably priced but shipping kills it. It's it worth grinding down the original plate?

Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk 2

[Squiggles]

The chain will rub on the original plate if you don't grind it down. IIrc some people use circlips to hold the sprocket on but I don't know how reliable they are or where you'd source them in NZ.

[Mushu]

While we are on the subject, the plate that holds the original sprocket is apparently too big for the 14t sprocket. The adaptor@ procycle is reasonably priced but shipping kills it. It's it worth grinding down the original plate?

Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk 2

I'd look at taking it to an engineering place to see what it would cost for them to machine it down, surely not too much?

[Okey Dokey]

Thank you all for the information about fitting the 14 tooth sprocket. I (we) really appreciate it!

[NordieBoy]

Grind the retainer down, or use circlips.

I've been using circlips for the last 60,000km or so...

[k1w33d]

Cheers nordie. What is the source for the circlips you use?

Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk 2

[bart]

I just took the lip off the original plate with the grinder

[NordieBoy]

Cheers nordie. What is the source for the circlips you use?

Any bolt shop should have them. I got them from Blacks.
22mm id and I use 2 of them to fill the gap.

[TLDV8]

I just took the lip off the original plate with the grinder

Exactly,cir-clips cost money,grinding is free.

Action shot.
<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c345/manurewa/DR%20General/F1.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo F1.jpg"/></a>

I just remembered that picture was from 2009.
I rode from Darwin to Cape York and back (8100 kms) on the stock 15/41 gearing carrying that 14T sprocket there and back without putting it on.
Some time after getting back I did try it and was kicking myself for not doing it sooner.
Even mileage seems to make little difference with either a 14T or 15T front.

[pomgolian]

Same bodge ground mine with a hand grinder not pretty but used it for 10,000kms until my next order from Procycle still got it as a spare somewhere.

[Waipukbiker]

Took mine down with a grinder as well, no probs.

[UralIneed]

Exactly,cir-clips cost money,grinding is free.

Action shot.
<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c345/manurewa/DR%20General/F1.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo F1.jpg"/></a>

I just remembered that picture was from 2009.
I rode from Darwin to Cape York and back (8100 kms) on the stock 15/41 gearing carrying that 14T sprocket there and back without putting it on.
Some time after getting back I did try it and was kicking myself for not doing it sooner.
Even mileage seems to make little difference with either a 14T or 15T front.

Does the 14t help with around town riding? I find the DR doesn't like it at 50-55km and I'm changing gears all the time. Just wondering?

[Waipukbiker]

yeah, it made it easier for me, would pull away from lower revs better, Mine came with a 43 t on the rear so it was a bit lower than standard anyway, better on gravel roads with the 14t as well, I do a lot of Roady riding so run with the 15t most of the time for economy.

[fridayflash]

i had ground my spacer down, but now use two 22mm circlips and washer/spacer.

[Okey Dokey]

Great stuff, everyone - especially love the "action shot"! Have ordered the new sprockets & chain, and will grind the plate. Will let you know how it all turns out.

First mod has been to shorten the sidestand about 10ml, which has been useful.

EDIT: just to say that gearing has now been changed as per fridayflash's recommendation and Mr OD finds it a vast improvement. Cheers.

[Mushu]

Sorry if this is a repost, saw it on advrider thought some of you might enjoy

Edit: can't figure out how to embed video so I'll try this way:
http://youtu.be/VJMYMC4jxKM

[bart]

Yeah, that’s brilliant...and totally unbiased.

[pomgolian]

Some cool weeelies must be a big rear sprocket

[fridayflash]

[QUOTE=pomgolian;1130618358]Some cool weeelies must be a big rear sprocket[

yeah, gotta be a decent size rear on it...mines quite low geared at 14/44 and its pretty reluctant to loft the wheel in third..even with clutching it
i really must practice my wheelies...damned envious of those guys who can wheelie to the moon and back:angry2:

[dino3310]

[QUOTE=pomgolian;1130618358]Some cool weeelies must be a big rear sprocket[



i really must practice my wheelies...damned envious of those guys who can wheelie to the moon and back:angry2:

just buy an XR:bleh:

[bart]

[QUOTE=fridayflash;1130618536]

just buy an XR:bleh:

In the wrong thread ain’t ya?

At least they still make DR’s...

[gav24]

Some cool weeelies must be a big rear sprocket

Nah, I guess yours isn't a black dr then? The black ones all do that aye Bart!;)

[Night Falcon]

wheelies look cool no matter the bike or colour :corn: I could never get my old DR to stand very easily but it was a white one with purple frame so maybe that explains it :scratch:

[gav24]

It's good to see a serious factual doco on you tube and kb, I get so tired of all the jokey jokey stuff.... Facts, that's what we need. Well done for raising these vital issues of dr650 ownership. Right, time to go and wrestle a bear, build a log cabin, grow a beard etc etc Grrr!

[pomgolian]

[QUOTE=pomgolian;1130618358]Some cool weeelies must be a big rear sprocket[

yeah, gotta be a decent size rear on it...mines quite low geared at 14/44 and its pretty reluctant to loft the wheel in third..even with clutching it
i really must practice my wheelies...damned envious of those guys who can wheelie to the moon and back:angry2:

Whats it like at 100kms with a 44 ? as thats the compromise - would love more low down pull but dont want to be thrashing the nuts off it at 100+

[Waipukbiker]

Its about 200 rpm diff between the front teeth, Mine is approx 4,000 rpm at 100 kph with 15/43 and 4200 ish with a 14 on.
I do mostly roady stuff so run the 15 for economy but the 14 is nicer on the gravel etc.
In the process of fitting a vapour so will be interesting to see what that tacho says.

[bart]

I actualy prefer the 15 tooth front. If you want more pull, just change it down a gear.

Mine is the ultra grunty black model though.:laugh:

[gav24]

I actualy prefer the 15 tooth front. If you want more pull, just change it down a gear.

Mine is the ultra grunty black model though.:laugh:

What he said!

At the risk of starting a "what oil?" Torrent, any recommendations on chain and sprocket combo's?
Like most stuff I'm guessing I'll end up going overseas for the stuff to save money and speed up the delivery times....:(
Don't want cheap poo that stretches like licorice laces, decent quality and I guess a narrower 520 would be sensible?

The standard stuff has lasted quite well but is getting near the end of its life at 16,000 Kms. That's pretty good for the type of riding and lack of maintenance I give it!

[k1w33d]

Just thought I would show off my custom foot peg hangers. They lowered the pegs by over an inch without compromising ground clearance. The guy who made them up still has the pattern if anyone is interested.



Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk 2

[bart]

What he said!

At the risk of starting a "what oil?" Torrent, any recommendations on chain and sprocket combo's?
Like most stuff I'm guessing I'll end up going overseas for the stuff to save money and speed up the delivery times....:(
Don't want cheap poo that stretches like licorice laces, decent quality and I guess a narrower 520 would be sensible?

The standard stuff has lasted quite well but is getting near the end of its life at 16,000 Kms. That's pretty good for the type of riding and lack of maintenance I give it!

I’m looking at chains at the moment also. I got quoted (can’t find the stupid dollar sign on this tablet thing) 230 for something half decent. Been considering changing to 520 pitch. What are the pros and cons?

I’ve been running cheap 525 chains and only getting about 5000km out of them.:facepalm:

[Jantar]

I fitted the EK520 with 15/42 sprockets from Procycle http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650-holiday-spcls-2010.html . The entire kit, including shipping was cheaper than just buying a chain here in NZ.

[TLDV8]

I fitted the EK520 with 15/42 sprockets from Procycle http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650-holiday-spcls-2010.html . The entire kit, including shipping was cheaper than just buying a chain here in NZ.

You realise there is a member here who has software in place to warn him of posts where people shop outside of New Zealand.
People go hungry apparently.
I bet he turns up here to chastise you for it,the brown nosers will PM him. :bleh: :lol:

Procycle are great,I think I have shares in the place by now.
I went to 520 some time ago but have doubts it will last like the 525 (18000kms each set)

[pomgolian]

I’m looking at chains at the moment also. I got quoted (can’t find the stupid dollar sign on this tablet thing) 230 for something half decent. Been considering changing to 520 pitch. What are the pros and cons?

I’ve been running cheap 525 chains and only getting about 5000km out of them.:facepalm:

That will be those licorice laces youve been using Bart - the original chain on mine lasted 20k the 525 DID VX i put on 10k ago still looks good with bugger all adjustment so far but it wasnt cheap (but mine is a white one). When this one is poked in 10k or sooner will switch to a 520 set up, from what i seen there is more choice on sprocket sizes and availability in bigger rears like 45s if ya wanna go that big. Get some good weelies then eh :laugh:

[Night Falcon]

That will be those licorice laces youve been using Bart - the original chain on mine lasted 20k the 525 DID VX i put on 10k ago still looks good with bugger all adjustment so far but it wasnt cheap (but mine is a white one). When this one is poked in 10k or sooner will switch to a 520 set up, from what i seen there is more choice on sprocket sizes and availability in bigger rears like 45s if ya wanna go that big. Get some good weelies then eh :laugh:

sounds like those two 520 chains I gave you out on the trails have had some impact after all to make you want to change set ups :devil2:

[pomgolian]

Maybe i should stick to 525s if thats what youve been throwing slinger - gotta do 5 days this week so no sand practice for me. :no:

[bart]

sounds like those two 520 chains I gave you out on the trails have had some impact after all to make you want to change set ups :devil2:

The fact you spit 520 chains off on your feeble 690 doesn't bode well for the superior horsepower of the mighty DR. There must be a reason DR's have the larger 525 set up.

[dino3310]

The fact you spit 520 chains off on your feeble 690 doesn't bode well for the superior horsepower of the mighty DR. There must be a reason DR's have the larger 525 set up.

Torque:headbang:

[bart]

Torque:headbang:

Wasn’t that some lame movie with that guy from Shortland Street doing impossible things on motorbikes.

[Night Falcon]

Wasn’t that some lame movie with that guy from Shortland Street doing impossible things on motorbikes.

Na, what he ment was the power of DR's is "all talk" :Pokey:

[bart]

Wasn’t that some lame movie with that guy from Shortland Street doing impossible things on motorbikes.

Now if they were on DR's, it would be almost believable...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PPWoz7WTmjU

[Woodman]

I get almost 20,000kms out of chains on my superior motorcycle.


Use DID superbike x ring gold coloured 520 chains and new sprockets each time.

If anyone cares

[R650R]

I think 525 size chains are just part of the OEM parts robbery scheme along with other oddball size things they put on various bikes at Factory for that years PR hype.
The 750 has done over 40 000 km on a 520 DID xring after going 'down' from the 525 size.
10500km on the DR standard chain and no sign of wear, running scottoiler.

[Mushu]

Now if they were on DR's, it would be almost believable...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PPWoz7WTmjU

was that a movie, here I thought someone had videoed my average ride home.

[Waipukbiker]

Has anyone out there in DR land got a standard length side stand they are willing to part with, Mine came lowered ( well partly lowered) and the stand had been shortened and now Ive put it back to normal height its leaning a bit too far over.

Cheers

[k1w33d]

Tim, big bloke, black dr650, his bike is lowered but he still has the standard stand. He may be interested in a swap. Sorry, I don't know any more about him but someone on here may.

Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk 2

[NordieBoy]

Has anyone out there in DR land got a standard length side stand they are willing to part with, Mine came lowered ( well partly lowered) and the stand had been shortened and now Ive put it back to normal height its leaning a bit too far over.

Cheers

I wouldn't use anything other than a short side stand on my normal height DR.
Much more stable than the normal length one.

[Eddieb]

Tim, big bloke, black dr650, his bike is lowered but he still has the standard stand. He may be interested in a swap. Sorry, I don't know any more about him but someone on here may.

Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk 2

Tim isn't on here or Facebook but I have email contact with him. I'll email him and see if he wants a short sidestand.

[Waipukbiker]

Cheers Eddie, I will just hold off on that for now, Thanks for the help anyway. The previous stand was shortened by the previous owner and it was a pain to park sometimes cos it was a bit too long so I think the genuine shorty may have been a bit shorter. Nordie has a point, certainly very stable the way it is now. I have always hopped on by standing on the L/H peg and swinging over, makes life easy with the saddle bags on. I might just use this as an excuse to weld a bigger plate on the end for softer ground and that will lift it slightly.

[@ndy]

Hello, after major thinking and pondering I decided to keep the old DR and attempt a full tear down/rebuild/improvement of my 1991 Dr650RSE.

I almost finish to take the whole thing apart but have a couple of problems...
How do I take the bearings out?
And I just can't figure out how to take this bolt out from the swing arm to the wishbone. It turns and it spins but doesn't unbolt, there is no bolt on the other side to hold it.


Should I use an hammer? ... Just curios if anybody here have any idea... Thanks

[pete376403]

probably the inner race of the needle bearing has corroded to the bolt shaft. Violence may be the answer. Support the frame round the outside of the bolt head, attack from the other end of the bolt with a decent size hammer

(disclaimer - I ride a KLR. This is how most things are fixed)

[k1w33d]

I used a grinder to get mine off. This was on a KDX200. The bolt/shaft, bearings and bush had basically cold welded itself into one huge mass.

Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk now Free ('http://tapatalk.com/m?id=10')

[k1w33d]

Grinding in action

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[@ndy]

Thanks ill try and attack with grinder and hammer, than I was thinking to take the frame, swing arm and forks to get sandblasted and powder coated.
Only superficial rust in there but I'd like to have them all clean and painted for bike reassembly... Bad idea ? Should I just wire brush and spray paint?

[gav24]

Getting the frame done is probably a good idea, but the forks and swinging arm shouldn't be done. Maybe soda blasted and anodised if you're keen, otherwise a good clean should be fine. Don't forget to mask up all the threaded parts of the frame before plastic coating. Internal and external threads, every last one, unless you enjoy spending hours with a tap and die cleaning up the threads...

[@ndy]

I did it... I grind the sh!t out of it in the middle of the bolt! wishbone is now free from swing arm.
Head of bolt still stuck in swing arm tho so will have to drill it out I guess.

So better don't powder coat swing arm? I did read it somewhere else as well but I wonder why?
Tonight I tried to take the wheels apart but the ex bolts that hold the disk are well stuck, trying again tomorrow otherwise I'll grind those too... The spokes need to changed anyway.

[pomgolian]

I did it... I grind the sh!t out of it in the middle of the bolt! wishbone is now free from swing arm.
Head of bolt still stuck in swing arm tho so will have to drill it out I guess.

So better don't powder coat swing arm? I did read it somewhere else as well but I wonder why?
Tonight I tried to take the wheels apart but the ex bolts that hold the disk are well stuck, trying again tomorrow otherwise I'll grind those too... The spokes need to changed anyway.

Disc bolts will have loctite on the threads warm the bolts with a hot air gun to loosen the loctite and they should come out, like most seized things a bit of heat saves a lot of grinding.

[@ndy]

Heat gun at work... Success disks are off.

Thanks for the tip.

Next I started disassembling the brake callipers... Lots of rust, mmm will look at options for some aftermarket ones or wire brush and paint them.

Also funny thing when I opened the rear callipers both the rubber pistons where missing!! :mellow:

I still have to buy a bearing puller, any suggestions ? I went to supercheap they had those 2legged ones for about 40 dollars each size, or do I want something like that... http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id197.html


Next thing to do on the list.... Take spokes apart, repaint hubs, look at the forks...

[pomgolian]

Heat gun at work... Success disks are off.

Thanks for the tip.

Next I started disassembling the brake callipers... Lots of rust, mmm will look at options for some aftermarket ones or wire brush and paint them.

Also funny thing when I opened the rear callipers both the rubber pistons where missing!! :mellow:

I still have to buy a bearing puller, any suggestions ? I went to supercheap they had those 2legged ones for about 40 dollars each size, or do I want something like that... http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id197.html


Next thing to do on the list.... Take spokes apart, repaint hubs, look at the forks...

Whats the bearing puller for ?? if its wheel bearings they should tap out easily with a long punch. (tool that is)

[dino3310]

Whats the bearing puller for ?? if its wheel bearings they should tap out easily with a long punch. (tool that is)

i just use a 10mm bit of rod with a hammer, catch an edge and tap around even .

[dino3310]

brap braaap http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/exhaust/auction-650954776.htm

[Eddieb]

brap braaap http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/exhaust/auction-650954776.htm

Thanks Dino, Bid placed

[gav24]

If you win, I'll take the steering damper off your hands....
Just what my BMW k100 race bike project needs.:niceone:

[NordieBoy]

If you win, I'll take the steering damper off your hands....
Just what my BMW k100 race bike project needs.:niceone:

Got one of those Daytona brand dampers on the Emporium wall if you're interested.
Won't mount to the DR400F and the TT350 has a GPR on it.

[gav24]

Yup! Could you either post up or pm me with the main dimensions and maybe a pic?
Oh yeah and a price. Thanks.

[Mushu]

If anyone is in the market for a DR, mine is up for sale
My DR650SE (http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/dual-purpose/auction-652030512.htm)

[gav24]

Yup! Could you either post up or pm me with the main dimensions and maybe a pic?
Oh yeah and a price. Thanks.

Nudge, nudge....:whistle:

[NordieBoy]

Nudge, nudge....:whistle:

Ok, ok, since you nudge so nicely :hug:

Where's that camera...

[NordieBoy]

Thisistheone...

Man that pic is crap...

[gav24]

Looks like what I need...
What is the total travel? Hard to tell from that pic, well it is on my small phone screen!

[NordieBoy]

Looks like what I need...
What is the total travel? Hard to tell from that pic, well it is on my small phone screen!

70mm travel, 6 clicks of adjustment.

[gav24]

I'll have a measure up this evening and let you know,(sounds a bit seedy!) but it looks promising.
Any idea on $$$?

[NordieBoy]

Any idea on $$$?

Lots of them, lots and lots...

Probably around $50...

[gav24]

Done!
I've pm'd you...

[Eddieb]

brap braaap http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/exhaust/auction-650954776.htm

Thanks again Dino, mine for $23.50 plus postage.

[Mushu]

My DR is still for sale if anyones interested. Make me an offer, it has got to go asap so I can piss off over seas.
I listed everything it has in a post a couple of months back but off the top of my head:

K7 model
17000ks
Trailtech Vapor Speedo + original
Pro Taper bars
BarkBusters
B&B bash plate
DG exhaust + original

And probably a couple more bits I have forgotten about, there isn't a better one on trademe right now and I'm in a hurry to sell so I am willing to take any reasonable offer.

[Darren W]

I have a newbie question to ask. If there is a thread on this elsewhere, please direct me to it.

I have been away from riding for a good dozen years now and would like to take up adventure riding in the next 12 months. I intend to ride metal roads and tracks, forest tracks and some farm land. Niot looking to get into bike mud. I have done that in the 4x4 previously.
I have never been a dirt bike rider, all my riding having been on the road. The last set of 2 wheels that I owned was a 95 1200 Triumph Trophy.

The Adventure bike that keeps catching my eye as you may have guessed is the DR650.

So my question to the worldly is this, as a complete novice would a DR650 be to much bike or would the DRZ400 be a better option.

:beer:

[NordieBoy]

Unless you're over 6 foot tall, the DR650 would be the better choice.

Even if you're over 6 ft, the DRZ is more biased to off road.

[gav24]

Hi, welcome to the thread.
Just to mention; off road riding doesn't really require the same capacity bikes as road riding, so many riders coming off road machines of 600cc plus can feel the need to stick at a similar capacity. This can be a big mistake for the rookie who's about to head out and scare themselves on their new rmz450 or Ktm530sx!
You mention the 400, but maybe a 250 would better suit your needs to start with? That's not meant to sound like a criticism or anything, but may change your perspective on bike choice....
Neither the 400 or 650 will tear your arms out their sockets or get you into too much trouble, as stock bikes, but their weight may prove to be less than confidence inspiring for a new off road rider.
You dont mention your size and weight either so factoring this in is important too. As a little xl100 isn't going to pull kimdotcom around too effectively!

Maybe some help there? Happy shopping!

[gav24]

Just re-read your post and I see your intended riding is fairly road/gravel based so I would go with a 650, but if you do want to get a bit more "muddy" then my previous comments probably point towards a 400 or even 250...

....phew, I got there in the end!:weird:

[pete376403]

After a 1200 Trophy, a DR 650 will feel reasonably light-to-middle weight.

[Darren W]

Thanks for that NordieBoy.

I am over 6 ft tall but was wondering whether the power of the of the 650 would have been to much to learn to off road on.

[Ocean1]

After a 1200 Trophy, a DR 650 will feel reasonably light-to-middle weight.

... depending on how many times you pick it up in any given day.

[R650R]

Coming from a big roadbike background you'll be fine on a DR650, hell their even a LAMS learner approved bike. My GSXR750WW spends a lot of time parked in the shed since I bought my DR650.
Previoulsy owned an 1100 and that and the 750 both been down gravel road missions too.
I'd only go for the smaller bike if you have easy access to some nice close single track technical trail stuff.

Bugger thought I had a pic scanned of the 750 on gravel. Anyway here's me mate on the 600 when we were off the beaten track in South Island.
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2858/10834255545_7dd65a3506.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77819625@N08/10834255545/)
gsxrtrip (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77819625@N08/10834255545/) by DR650NZ (http://www.flickr.com/people/77819625@N08/), on Flickr

[Darren W]

Thanks for the comments guys. If I ever start needing a bike to do technical stuff then somewhere along the line of stepped well outside my comfort zone.

I have read previously that the DRZ leans more to the muddy techo riders and that the DR650 is more the "adventure" bike.

Sounds like the 650 maybe the way to go and I intend to do a couple of weekend adventure rider edu courses also to learn some basics

[Eddieb]

Anyone know where I can source a PICK-UP PULSAR COIL for the DR650 without paying twice as much for freight as the part of worth. The part is $30-40NZ and the cheapest shipping I can find is $60NZ.

[pomgolian]

Hi Eddie i looked all over for one when my DR played up thinking it was that before testing the plug caps individually as one was pulling down the coil causing it to cut out just like a coil or pulse coil. Check them first individually and NOT like the manual tells you through the coil.

If it is the pulse sender (the part that only comes with the generator coil from the factory) then i think the US option is the only option with freight or a second handy.

Paul

[Eddieb]

Hi Eddie i looked all over for one when my DR played up thinking it was that before testing the plug caps individually as one was pulling down the coil causing it to cut out just like a coil or pulse coil. Check them first individually and NOT like the manual tells you through the coil.

If it is the pulse sender (the part that only comes with the generator coil from the factory) then i think the US option is the only option with freight or a second handy.

Paul

I've replaced both plugs and caps, as the caps were pretty worn out and one was arcing through the plastic. I've run a multi meter over the coil outputs as per the service manual and the readings don't look right to me.

[NordieBoy]

Still looking through the dead dr engine box. Some of the bits are at NordieBro's place though…

[pomgolian]

Sounds like you need to try a coil then if the readings cap to cap are way out.

[TangoCharlie]

Check out Bike Exif for more details....

[bushy]

Does anyone out there have an original DR650 seat they would like to sell or swap? My new steed has a lowered modified seat which I find too low.
PM me if you can help out or want to see a pic of my seat.

Cheers

[fridayflash]

Does anyone out there have an original DR650 seat they would like to sell or swap? My new steed has a lowered modified seat which I find too low.
PM me if you can help out or want to see a pic of my seat.

Cheers

with a bit of luck someone may wanna trade for a low one eh, you could have foam added to approximate standard height by an upholsterer..altho that may require a new cover also

[FuzzG]

Does anyone out there have an original DR650 seat they would like to sell or swap? My new steed has a lowered modified seat which I find too low.
PM me if you can help out or want to see a pic of my seat.

Cheers

I have a stock seat the I wouldn't mind changing for something more comfortable(wider), what height are you as I'm 6 foot and might end up finding it too low also?

[bushy]

I have a stock seat the I wouldn't mind changing for something more comfortable(wider), what height are you as I'm 6 foot and might end up finding it too low also?

I don't think you would gain anything, this seat is wider than normal but has been shaved to make lower so some of the cushioning effect is gone, so I don't think its any more comfy than stock seat, but good for shorter people. I am the same height. Welcome to try it if you want. Cheers

[FuzzG]

I don't think you would gain anything, this seat is wider than normal but has been shaved to make lower so some of the cushioning effect is gone, so I don't think its any more comfy than stock seat, but good for shorter people. I am the same height. Welcome to try it if you want. Cheers

Well I suppose there is no point fixing one problem but causing another, cheers anyway

[NordieBoy]

I've got a spare stock seat, but it's purple and yellow...
I use it as my low seat when trial riding...

[MXNUT]

Does anyone out there have an original DR650 seat they would like to sell or swap? My new steed has a lowered modified seat which I find too low.
PM me if you can help out or want to see a pic of my seat.

Cheers

PM Sent .......

[hondav2]

I havnt been on KB for a while now . Just letting yous know my DR has over 73,000 miles ( not km ) . Only major problems were ignition pick up failed at 40,000 miles , O ring leaked in carby at 60,000 miles so while tank was off checked valve clearances for 1st time . Its still running ok but carby is getting worn and it dont like slow running on cold days . 291040

[bart]

I havnt been on KB for a while now . Just letting yous know my DR has over 73,000 miles ( not km ) . Only major problems were ignition pick up failed at 40,000 miles , O ring leaked in carby at 60,000 miles so while tank was off checked valve clearances for 1st time . Its still running ok but carby is getting worn and it dont like slow running on cold days . 291040

Good effort. Mine’s only a baby then with 30k (km) on it. I figured the DR would be rooted by about 60k. Are there any other high mile jobs out there?

[hondav2]

Good effort. Mine’s only a baby then with 30k (km) on it. I figured the DR would be rooted by about 60k. Are there any other high mile jobs out there?

Chains , sprockets , tyres and the odd battery .

[Logmaker]

Good effort. Mine’s only a baby then with 30k (km) on it. I figured the DR would be rooted by about 60k. Are there any other high mile jobs out there?

A mate of mine in Motueka DR650 has done 120,000kms just doing regular oil & filter changes ,no issues at all .

[bushy]

So I bit the bullet and ordered some Cogent DDC suspension valve thingys, some stiffer racetech front springs, and a 7.6kg spring for the rear of my new to me DR. Fitting them up was easy enough after I discovered my front forks had been lowered the factory way with the spacers put under the damping rods.....(thought it sat too low in the front)

First impressions are great, the bike feels like a different machine now. Once again excellent service from Procycle.

[clint640]

Good effort. Mine’s only a baby then with 30k (km) on it. I figured the DR would be rooted by about 60k. Are there any other high mile jobs out there?

I gave a few 2nd hand carb parts to a travelling German dude a while back as his BST40 was getting pretty shagged, around 180K km on his DR IIRC & he hadn't had any major issues. Mind you, when we were talking about tyres as you do, I mentioned how good the E0-7's lasted, he agreed, said 27K km was indeed a good run... I get 9K... So I think that DR had a pretty easy life.

Clint

[NordieBoy]

A mate of mine in Motueka DR650 has done 120,000kms just doing regular oil & filter changes ,no issues at all .

He's also a mechanic, so probably a little more regular with the regular oil and filter changes...

I got 60,000 from the first engine before it blew, retired the 2nd at 110,000 and the 3rd is 23,000km old now.

[NordieBoy]

I gave a few 2nd hand carb parts to a travelling German dude a while back as his BST40 was getting pretty shagged, around 180K km on his DR IIRC & he hadn't had any major issues. Mind you, when we were talking about tyres as you do, I mentioned how good the E0-7's lasted, he agreed, said 27K km was indeed a good run... I get 9K... So I think that DR had a pretty easy life.

Clint

He got carb parts off me too :)
I couldn't believe how shagged that slide guide was!

An easy life until he stacked it into that harvester or something down south...

[Night Falcon]

He's also a mechanic, so probably a little more regular with the regular oil and filter changes...

I got 60,000 from the first engine before it blew, retired the 2nd at 110,000 and the 3rd is 23,000km old now.

60k don't seem a lot for a DR motor? what blew on it....3rd gear?

[NordieBoy]

60k don't seem a lot for a DR motor? what blew on it....3rd gear?

Yep. A week later Transalper blew his at 60,000 too. Both 2001 models.

[gav24]

I heard a "friend of a friends, cousins, brothers etc etc" dr650 did its 3rd gear set here on the Kapiti coast recently, means nothing I guess unless we all known the year and ks...?
Have sent a text chain out....

[gav24]

An 04 with 35,000 on it...
That seem right?
I thought 60 k was the designated self destruct point?!:weep:

Mines on 20k so still brand new! Err, well a little scuffed...:rolleyes:

[Night Falcon]

An 04 with 35,000 on it...
That seem right?
I thought 60 k was the designated self destruct point?!:weep:

Mines on 20k so still brand new! Err, well a little scuffed...:rolleyes:

I hope Mr Suzuki looked after him.

[bart]

An 04 with 35,000 on it...
That seem right?
I thought 60 k was the designated self destruct point?!:weep:

Mines on 20k so still brand new! Err, well a little scuffed...:rolleyes:

Ouch. Didn’t they fix, or at least improve the 3rd gear issue on later models?

[bart]

I hope Mr Suzuki looked after him.

I’d say it’s out of it’s warrenty period, but I’m sure they’d sort him out a shiny new one for about 9k. :facepalm:

[fridayflash]

im sure nordie says the later ones have the third gear issue fixed...mines an '02 model with 42,000 kms on the clock so im sure mine will give me the good news sometime soon!

[TLDV8]

Ouch. Didn’t they fix, or at least improve the 3rd gear issue on later models?

Its pretty much the same old gear pairing on the SE model,the reason I sent my complete 08 DR transmission to Nova Racing Transmissions in the UK so they could make the replacement billet 3rd gear set for it.
Given the price they sell for its a fairly expensive and labour intensive upgrade.
#
I have a set of new stock 3rd gears if anyone wants them,not really worried about selling them but can do someone a good deal on them.
Purchased prior to getting the billet set.


PS.
My stock 3rd gears looked to be in much better shape than the 5th gear set which had pronounced wear.
Picture DR6.

http://s30.photobucket.com/user/manurewa/library/DR%20General/DRgear?sort=3&page=1

[NordieBoy]

An 04 with 35,000 on it...
That seem right?
I thought 60 k was the designated self destruct point?!:weep:

Mines on 20k so still brand new! Err, well a little scuffed...:rolleyes:

35k is low for NZ/US but still in the ballpark. Any lower and it'd be Australian...

[NordieBoy]

im sure nordie says the later ones have the third gear issue fixed...mines an '02 model with 42,000 kms on the clock so im sure mine will give me the good news sometime soon!

They changed it but not fixed it...

[240]

They changed it in 08 from what i have heard :cool:

[k1w33d]

A guy in Kapiti bought a DR and had his third gear crap out after 3k km. He loved the bike but was quickly over it after that. Not certain of the year but pretty sure it was later than 08

Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk

[NordieBoy]

They changed it in 08 from what i have heard :cool:

Yep, and they've broken too.
They just moved the engagement dogs around a couple of teeth so the edge of the dog didn't line up with a tooth valley. Didn't seem to help...

[NordieBoy]

Paul Owen fluff piece on Stuff...

http://i.stuff.co.nz/motoring/bikes/9621534/Suzukis-sole-surviving-big-single-still-charms

Ignore the spelling mistakes and mention of "cartridge forks", and it's an easy read...

[Woodman]

Paul Owen fluff piece on Stuff...

http://i.stuff.co.nz/motoring/bikes/9621534/Suzukis-sole-surviving-big-single-still-charms

Ignore the spelling mistakes and mention of "cartridge forks", and it's an easy read...

Wonder if Suzuki and Kawasaki for that matter will try to keep producing an equivalent cheap euro4 compliant alternative. The KLR is aparrently a real cash cow for Kawasaki, so presumably the DR is as well.

[fridayflash]

fluff piece is right, yawn yawn..he must of had that in the drawer for a rainy day, i remember when paul owen's idea of the ultimate ride was a cbr400 over takaka hill

[dino3310]

i notice he didnt mention the Honda XR650L.... been the same clone since 93.

[NordieBoy]

i remember when paul owen's idea of the ultimate ride was a cbr400 over takaka hill

Warm summer evening, CBR400, Takaka Hill...

Not much wrong with that...

[bart]

I bought a bike mag the other day...kiwisomething, and I found it was full of ads. Even the bits that weren’t ads were ads. The write ups were just sales pitches. If that’s the case, this is actualy a bad write up because he doesn’t say anything good about the DR.

I find the DR is the best thing on gravel since the 1984 XL250 I had when I was a little fella. Every other bike I’ve had has been too twitchy with hard suspension and steep steering head angle.

Just saying...

[BMWST?]

I bought a bike mag the other day...kiwisomething, and I found it was full of ads. Even the bits that weren’t ads were ads. The write ups were just sales pitches. If that’s the case, this is actualy a bad write up because he doesn’t say anything good about the DR.

I find the DR is the best thing on gravel since the 1984 XL250 I had when I was a little fella. Every other bike I’ve had has been too twitchy with hard suspension and steep steering head angle.

Just saying...

And what were the other bikes,just as a reference for us that have no knowledge of dr 650s

[fridayflash]

Warm summer evening, CBR400, Takaka Hill...

Not much wrong with that...

yeah, i should add that it sounds pretty good to me too lol

[fridayflash]

I bought a bike mag the other day...kiwisomething, and I found it was full of ads. Even the bits that weren’t ads were ads. The write ups were just sales pitches. If that’s the case, this is actualy a bad write up because he doesn’t say anything good about the DR.

I find the DR is the best thing on gravel since the 1984 XL250 I had when I was a little fella. Every other bike I’ve had has been too twitchy with hard suspension and steep steering head angle.

Just saying...

i know what you mean about 'kiwisomething' magazine, i used to subscribe but not now..once or twice a year is enough. a bike test is one page
with a couple of sidebars or extra fluff thrown in for padding. bring back jon nic!

[Night Falcon]

I bought a bike mag the other day...kiwisomething, and I found it was full of ads. Even the bits that weren’t ads were ads. The write ups were just sales pitches. If that’s the case, this is actualy a bad write up because he doesn’t say anything good about the DR.

I find the DR is the best thing on gravel since the 1984 XL250 I had when I was a little fella. Every other bike I’ve had has been too twitchy with hard suspension and steep steering head angle.

Just saying...

high praise given your skill set on gravel Bart. I liked my DR on gravel but not as much as my 690 but then I didn't have access to those special high grip tyres that you use when I had my DR

[NordieBoy]

I find the DR is the best thing on gravel since the 1984 XL250 I had when I was a little fella. Every other bike I’ve had has been too twitchy with hard suspension and steep steering head angle.

Just saying...

Actually, beach racing the '79 XR250 was much more stable and fun than the DR650. The head angle of the DR was too steep and made it too twitchy :D

[fridayflash]

Actually, beach racing the '79 XR250 was much more stable and fun than the DR650. The head angle of the DR was too steep and made it too twitchy :D

21 or 23" front wheel nordie?

[NordieBoy]

21" front with YSS PD valves (emulators) and Works Performance rear shocks.

[fridayflash]

sounds like a hot setup!

[bart]

Actually, beach racing the '79 XR250 was much more stable and fun than the DR650. The head angle of the DR was too steep and made it too twitchy :D

It’s a weight thing. If you’re a heavy little lump like me, you sit back, load up the back wheel for traction which rakes out the front for stability. Win win.

When I had the XL250, I actualy had a matching 1984 XR250 (bored to 280). The XR was an absolute twitchy POS on gravel compared to the XL. Offroad, the XL was dangerous...:eek:

[bart]

And what were the other bikes,just as a reference for us that have no knowledge of dr 650s

I’ve had a heap of yellow ones, but they were farm bikes. A green one, a maroon one, a blue one, but they had smooth tyres. Black, white, red (yeah, a few of those), and currently a black one.

Perhaps I was a little bold with my statement, but from the bikes I’m familiar with, the DR for 9k is pretty bloody reasonable.

You’ll notice I’ve never owned an orange one. Something I need to change...one day.

[NordieBoy]

It’s a weight thing. If you’re a heavy little lump like me, you sit back, load up the back wheel for traction which rakes out the front for stability. Win win.

When I had the XL250, I actualy had a matching 1984 XR250 (bored to 280). The XR was an absolute twitchy POS on gravel compared to the XL. Offroad, the XL was dangerous...:eek:

Sit back - check :niceone:...
<img width=640 src=http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/dirt/20110103%20Beach%20Races/slides/20110103-161820-0060.jpg>


Just managing to hang on due to the mighty power output...

[R650R]

I bought a bike mag the other day...kiwisomething, and I found it was full of ads. Even the bits that weren’t ads were ads. The write ups were just sales pitches. If that’s the case, this is actualy a bad write up because he doesn’t say anything good about the DR.

I find the DR is the best thing on gravel since the 1984 XL250 I had when I was a little fella. Every other bike I’ve had has been too twitchy with hard suspension and steep steering head angle.

Just saying...

Fairfax don't pay much, I'd say it was probably ridden to the nearest gravel carpark for those shots. No talk about how it rode, just all specs... It's quite funny reading those herald and stuff bike reviews as they try to write how powerful bike x is without admitting to breaking laws..
Looked up the Euro4 thing too, my interpretation is the DR is good till beginning of 2017 manufacture date and able to be sold up to end of 2020 as of course dealers don't always sell out of stock straight away.
I'm sure there are plenty of other markets to keep the DR sales going especially when Suzuki must be well and truly freehold on the R&D/tooling by now...

[Team Buffoon]

After much procrastination I have decided that my DR650 must go. I have decided to scratch the R80GS itch again and given the riding I am currently doing it is a better bet. (Those BMs are different but I am getting to quite like its habits!) The DR is an '09 with 17k km, pretty much all the fruit you might like to throw at it and in VGC. I am asking $7500. I am only home for a week before heading off to work for four weeks so if it does not sell quickly now it will be on TMe when I am home again. If you are interested then drop me a PM and we can go from there. Oh yea the bike is in Auckland.

[TangoCharlie]

Anyone got a set of standard or super motard wheels for a DR650 they want to sell?

[bart]

What oil do you guys run in your DR650’s?

Well overdue for an oil change, but being severely challenged in the financial department, I couldn’t part with 70 odd dollars for the fancy Spectro stuff from the bike shop. Bought some Gulf 10w40 four stroke from Farmlands for $36 (4 litre). Says it’s alright for a wet clutch. Has anyone else tried this oil?

[XF650]

What oil do you guys run in your DR650’s?

Well overdue for an oil change, but being severely challenged in the financial department, I couldn’t part with 70 odd dollars for the fancy Spectro stuff from the bike shop. Bought some Gulf 10w40 four stroke from Farmlands for $36 (4 litre). Says it’s alright for a wet clutch. Has anyone else tried this oil?

Since you have started another oil thread, I've switched all my vehicles to Aegis - it's reasonably priced & proudly blended in NZ: http://aegisoil.co.nz/

[NordieBoy]

I get 5L containers of Total.
Enough for 2 changes and some spare.

[JATZ]

We tried the gulf stuff in the work quads and it was crap, they didn't like it at all. Gone back to Castro 4t, it's what I've used in all my bikes except the beemer and the triumph.

[Woodman]

Big Penrite fan here, its the best you can get and a huge range...................

[Magnum Noel]

What oil do you guys run in your DR650’s?

Well overdue for an oil change, but being severely challenged in the financial department, I couldn’t part with 70 odd dollars for the fancy Spectro stuff from the bike shop. Bought some Gulf 10w40 four stroke from Farmlands for $36 (4 litre). Says it’s alright for a wet clutch. Has anyone else tried this oil?

Yeah those 5ltr packs of Penrite from Super Cheap seem good value. The 10w40 also has the zinc in it which is supposed to be good for motorcycles.

[XF650]

Yeah those 5ltr packs of Penrite from Super Cheap seem good value. The 10w40 also has the zinc in it which is supposed to be good for motorcycles.

Not very diplomatic, aye Nigel.

[bart]

So Gulf oil is crap eh. Oh well, I’ll have to change it a bit before the 6k limit then.

What sort of price are these other ones, and are they ’car’ oil? Car oils are bad. They have nasty additives and things. Or so I’ve heard...

[R650R]

How bad is overdue km's??? I could sell you the second hand synthetic after my oil changes, nothing stays in their longer than 3000km and a new filter every time too. BelRay Thumper 10/40
Back when in the fish and chip days of thrashing my FZR250 Exup around Napier at 18000rpm I used to put car oil in it, shell used to do a good price on semi synthetic.
The stuff about wet clutches and friction additives is just an old wives tale, if its slipping its because its already thrashed, not the oils fault.
I've known a few truck drivers to use diesel engine oil in their cars with no issues either...
Think it matters more about how often you change it, especially on a big single that in evitibly will suck its fair share of dirt past the filter... :)

[bart]

How bad is overdue km's??? I could sell you the second hand synthetic after my oil changes, nothing stays in their longer than 3000km and a new filter every time too. BelRay Thumper 10/40
Back when in the fish and chip days of thrashing my FZR250 Exup around Napier at 18000rpm I used to put car oil in it, shell used to do a good price on semi synthetic.
The stuff about wet clutches and friction additives is just an old wives tale, if its slipping its because its already thrashed, not the oils fault.
I've known a few truck drivers to use diesel engine oil in their cars with no issues either...
Think it matters more about how often you change it, especially on a big single that in evitibly will suck its fair share of dirt past the filter... :)

Take a look at this then

http://dr650.zenseeker.net/Lubrication.htm

I know I shouldn’t believe everything on the net, but it makes some sense

[bart]

This guy basicaly says to use any old crap.

http://www.vfrworld.com/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm

Oh well, at least I’ve found I don’t have to be ripped off for that Spectro stuff any more. That was the result I was after. :scooter:

[NordieBoy]

I get Total from the wholesaler.

[pete-blen]

I usely use Motul 5100.. But have Belray Thumper in the XT at the moment..
is about the same prise as Motul so I thought give it a go.... no noticeable diffrents..
prob go back to Motul.. Apparantly Motul 5100 is what Yamalube is..

[Magnum Noel]

[QUOTE=XF650;1130695508]Not very diplomatic, aye Nigel.[/QUOTE
.................:blink:?...

[NordieBoy]

[QUOTE=XF650;1130695508]Not very diplomatic, aye Nigel.[/QUOTE
.................:blink:?...

Better to get your Penrite from Repco (Woodman pretends to work there) :apint:

[Aslan]

Seeking wisdom of this forum - Nordie to the Courtesy Phone please

Just prepping my DR for a planned excursion tomorrow when I dropped it in my garage - prop stand too upright - in checking bark busters etc - discovered throttle not snapping back automatically as I'd have expected - is this commonplace for the standard Mikuni BST Carb - or is it likely that the carb requires cleaning / servicing by me - I've just downloaded the BST Bible

Thanks in advance

[NordieBoy]

Pull the throttle apart at the top end and see if the cables move independantly, could just be a sticky/kinked cable.

If you undo the cables from the carb end, the slide should drop instantly, ruling out the carb as the problem.

[Transalper]

My sticky throttles have always been throttle tube area related... as in at the handlebar, cable adjusted too tight or dirt under throttle tube or end of throttle grip rubbing on handguard etc.

[JATZ]

I'd check the bark buster first if it was snapping back before. Make sure it hasn't been pushed in and is now impeding the operation of said throttle. Or ride it as is and use it like a cruise control :D


Doh... T.A. beat me to it

[Aslan]

Thanks Nordie,T/A & Jatz - will check your suggestions

Just checked Bark Buster innards in Throttle Tube - sure enough that was the cause of this minor challenge

Really appreciate your help guys

Have a great weekend - cheers S

[Mushu]

My DR is back up for sale on tardme, tried to sell it a couple of months ago but didn't get any bids so I decided to use it for transport to work for a bit before I leave for australia but now it is the only thing I have left to get rid of before I can leave so its back up for sale, a few more kays on it now but it got an oil change around a thousand kays ago along with new tyres and rear brakes I will also be getting it a fresh warrant in the next couple of days.

I have dropped the price to 1000 lower than any other on trademe because I need it to sell and dont want to screw around relisting it so it is a bargain for somebody.

Here's a link to the auction (http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/dual-purpose/auction-712994450.htm)

[DR650gary]

Good luck with the sale Mushu but in my experience I have had more success with a fixed price listing rather than an auction. An auction only seems to get people going if the start and reserve are set ridiculously low. I choose a price that seems a bit low but fair for the buyer and seller and stick closely to it.

I have just sold one bike on Trademe and have another still listed. The one that sold was set at a low but fair price and sold quickly. The other is a bit high but we are not too excited about selling just yet.

Not intended as a criticism and certainly not pointed at you but it seems to me that a high proportion of the private sale bikes are listed too high and are often at dealer prices without the backup and support etc that a dealer has to offer.

I think the price on your bike is more than fair but a buyer has to wait with an auction and maybe loose out for a few dollars to an idiot bidder that fails to go through with the sale later.

If $5k was my bottom dollar then I would stick it up as a non auction listing plus a few buck to cover the Trademe fees and see if the market bites. If not, then either I was wrong or the bike is not destined to sell at the moment. The last bike I sold went for $300 over the listed price as I had a couple of keen buyers.

Anyway, if I was in the market for a bike like yours I would have snapped it up @ $5K as it is a good unit but would have passed on it as an auction.

Cheers

[MisterD]

Concur. I'm shopping around for a DR at the moment, but I'm not going to bid on something I haven't been to see and I can't be bothered to go see something and then have to faff around with an auction.

I'd rather email the seller on a classified ad, go see it, haggle and buy it.