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Mushu
3rd April 2014, 11:32
Concur. I'm shopping around for a DR at the moment, but I'm not going to bid on something I haven't been to see and I can't be bothered to go see something and then have to faff around with an auction.

I'd rather email the seller on a classified ad, go see it, haggle and buy it.

Seems pretty simple to me, come see the bike, decide what you're willing to pay for it, chuck in an autobid for what you are willing to pay for it and wait, it's only a short auction, finishes on Tuesday.

MisterD
3rd April 2014, 11:37
Simple, apart from the Auckland to Christchurch flights and bike transport bit...

BMWST?
4th April 2014, 19:09
Simple, apart from the Auckland to Christchurch flights and bike transport bit...

How is that different to your scenario?the haggling is merely replaced by a one time autobid

DR650gary
5th April 2014, 13:09
How is that different to your scenario?the haggling is merely replaced by a one time autobid

Unless the autobid fails and you get to do it all over again and maybe again. Plus, a bike listed with start and reserve the same can automatically display the max of the autobid so another couple of dollars from another no show bidder gets the bike after the trip and the negotiation.

I was just trying to help the guy sell a great bike. I have been watching bikes sell and get relisted quite a few times over the past few months while I was researching the prices for our bikes whereas with a simple fixed price listing, once they are gone, they are gone.

Most dealers list with a fixed price and they are in the business to sell bikes, not entertain the masses.

Cheers

BMWST?
5th April 2014, 16:29
Unless the autobid fails and you get to do it all over again and maybe again. Plus, a bike listed with start and reserve the same can automatically display the max of the autobid so another couple of dollars from another no show bidder gets the bike after the trip and the negotiation.

I was just trying to help the guy sell a great bike. I have been watching bikes sell and get relisted quite a few times over the past few months while I was researching the prices for our bikes whereas with a simple fixed price listing, once they are gone, they are gone.

Most dealers list with a fixed price and they are in the business to sell bikes, not entertain the masses.

Cheers

Thanks for clarification

bart
7th April 2014, 11:27
Does anyone know where to get a 16 tooth front sprocket for the DR? I want the option of gearing it right up for open road comuting.

Cheers.

Big Dog
7th April 2014, 12:07
JT Sprockets do one for 350 so I imagine they would for 650. Most dealerships get them. On phone so can't check right now but I think you can see charts to get part number at JT-sprockets.com

Personally I found it cheaper to go down to a 39 tooth rear than do the front sprocket.

Losing 9 teeth is a big difference.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

bart
7th April 2014, 13:21
JT Sprockets do one for 350 so I imagine they would for 650. Most dealerships get them. On phone so can't check right now but I think you can see charts to get part number at JT-sprockets.com

Personally I found it cheaper to go down to a 39 tooth rear than do the front sprocket.

Losing 9 teeth is a big difference.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm already running a 41 rear, so can't go much further. I want the ability of changing the gearing depending on the riding I'm doing also, which is easiest with the front sprocket. I don't want an extra chain or have to join bits in (I used to do that with a DRZ400 as with their shit close ratio gearbox, I had all sorts of sprocket combinations for road and trail riding, often joining in extra bits of chain to make it fit).

Big Dog
7th April 2014, 13:26
Fair enough. I was happy enough to accept I would need to go back I'd wanted to go on a serious adventure ride. Over stock sprocket 41 or 42 can't remember there was no change to chain just an adjustment. But about 20% less fuel at open road speed.
Over the 48 or 49 that was on there before that was night and day. But yes. Had there not been an interim sprocket and change of chain that would have been a cut.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

chasio
7th April 2014, 13:38
I'm already running a 41 rear, so can't go much further. I want the ability of changing the gearing depending on the riding I'm doing also, which is easiest with the front sprocket. I don't want an extra chain or have to join bits in (I used to do that with a DRZ400 as with their shit close ratio gearbox, I had all sorts of sprocket combinations for road and trail riding, often joining in extra bits of chain to make it fit).

I got a 14 and a 16 from Kientech (http://kientech.com/DR650ConvNstandardsprocketkits.htm) for US $20 each. Shipping was also reasonable.

Thinking about it, I am 99.9% sure that have a 16 in my garage that is still in its wrapper and I have no plans to fit it in the forseeable future. Let me know if you're interested.

bart
8th April 2014, 13:00
I got a 14 and a 16 from Kientech (http://kientech.com/DR650ConvNstandardsprocketkits.htm) for US $20 each. Shipping was also reasonable.

Thinking about it, I am 99.9% sure that have a 16 in my garage that is still in its wrapper and I have no plans to fit it in the forseeable future. Let me know if you're interested.

PM sent. Cheers

Aslan
8th April 2014, 19:48
hi - folks, anyone out there got a stock side stand - just the prop itself ,you'd be willing to sell me please - my stock one broke and is too upright as a result of the repair - thanks in advance :scooter:

bart
14th April 2014, 20:25
I got a 14 and a 16 from Kientech (http://kientech.com/DR650ConvNstandardsprocketkits.htm) for US $20 each. Shipping was also reasonable.

Thinking about it, I am 99.9% sure that have a 16 in my garage that is still in its wrapper and I have no plans to fit it in the forseeable future. Let me know if you're interested.

Well that was a success. The 16 tooth front has transformed the whole bike. I was concerned the DR might struggle with the taller gearing but it seems fine. 1st is a wee bit higher, but not much really. At the other end it’s like having a 6th gear. After a very quick blast, I found it idles along at about 105 kmh nicely and pulls well through 120 without even reving hard. It’s happy place used to be about 90 to 95 kmh, now it has gained at least 10km.

I can’t wait to take it for a real ride. It’s been a long time since I’ve been this excited about the crappy DR.:drool:

I’d have to drop the gearing again for single track stuff though.

My bike’s had a few mods, so I’m unsure if it’d pull it so easy in standard trim.

Cheers Chasio for the deal.

R650R
14th April 2014, 21:49
We should get the DRs together one day, everyone has one litre of fuel only and see who gets the furtherest :)

R650R
26th April 2014, 18:43
I guess 12000 km is a bit long between exhaust repacks LOL
Hadn't noticed any difference, maybe little louder but I wear earplugs and its hard to notice gradual changes.
Hopefully maybe a little more power, fresh set of spark plugs too, NGK CR10E
btw whats in the pak n save bag is all that was left inside!

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2919/14016062614_a19aeed55e_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nmxZ6Y)20140426_7569fl (https://flic.kr/p/nmxZ6Y) by DR650NZ (https://www.flickr.com/people/77819625@N08/), on Flickr

DR650gary
3rd May 2014, 18:22
I must be getting old. This does piss me off a bit.

Trademe listing

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/foot-pegs-mounts/auction-724742172.htm

Company that makes it listing

http://acmezoom.com/store.php?crn=220&rn=430&action=show_detail

I realise that postage has a cost but this is just greedy IMHO. Even uses the same photo.

No wonder many of us buy directly from o/seas.

Eddieb
3rd May 2014, 19:10
I must be getting old. This does piss me off a bit.

Trademe listing

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/foot-pegs-mounts/auction-724742172.htm

Company that makes it listing

http://acmezoom.com/store.php?crn=220&rn=430&action=show_detail

I realise that postage has a cost but this is just greedy IMHO. Even uses the same photo.

No wonder many of us buy directly from o/seas.

or go here, download the schematic for free and get your local friendly engineer/mate to make some.
http://www.adventureridingnz.co.nz/members/downloads/

Waihou Thumper
3rd May 2014, 19:12
I must be getting old. This does piss me off a bit.

Trademe listing

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/foot-pegs-mounts/auction-724742172.htm

Company that makes it listing

http://acmezoom.com/store.php?crn=220&rn=430&action=show_detail

I realise that postage has a cost but this is just greedy IMHO. Even uses the same photo.

No wonder many of us buy directly from o/seas.

The thing is, some and most will do their homework. Some will be too lazy and will happily pay the costs....:(
What doesn't help us is the fact that some will not ship overseas, so we are at the mercy of whomever brings it in...
Yes, it pisses me off too, that is why I have a PO Box in the USA, for exactly these issues....

R650R
3rd May 2014, 19:35
I must be getting old. This does piss me off a bit.

Trademe listing

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/foot-pegs-mounts/auction-724742172.htm



No different to mark up on any other retail item. It cost them to bring it in store and market and spend time on calls an emails from people who may or may not buy.
It might be only one item to you but will be one item of many for them that's tying up cash and sitting on the shelf as stock.

I actually emailed their parts guy awhile back about some DR stuff, was impressed with quick reply and info.

NordieBoy
3rd May 2014, 20:04
or go here, download the schematic for free and get your local friendly engineer/mate to make some.
http://www.adventureridingnz.co.nz/members/downloads/

I know someone in the states who printed that out and using it as a template, cut it out of steel.
The holes were about 2mm out.

He didn't measure it up at all, just used the printout...

NordieBoy
3rd May 2014, 20:10
No different to mark up on any other retail item. It cost them to bring it in store and market and spend time on calls an emails from people who may or may not buy.
It might be only one item to you but will be one item of many for them that's tying up cash and sitting on the shelf as stock.

I actually emailed their parts guy awhile back about some DR stuff, was impressed with quick reply and info.

The parts cost about $20.

If you get a free 10mm galv steel offcut, it's about $8 for the bolts, washers and nuts...
<img width=640 src=http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/DR650/20080805%20Lowering%20footpegs/slides/20080806-140502-000001.jpg>

DR650gary
3rd May 2014, 22:41
No different to mark up on any other retail item. It cost them to bring it in store and market and spend time on calls an emails from people who may or may not buy.
It might be only one item to you but will be one item of many for them that's tying up cash and sitting on the shelf as stock.

I actually emailed their parts guy awhile back about some DR stuff, was impressed with quick reply and info.


Seriously? Plus 100% mark up?

No wonder so many people buy o/seas and ship it in.

Your generosity must know no bounds.

Tazz
4th May 2014, 00:08
Seriously? Plus 100% mark up?

No wonder so many people buy o/seas and ship it in.

Your generosity must know no bounds.

If it's that easy you should set up your own business. You'd make a killing by the sounds of it :niceone:

R650R
4th May 2014, 09:46
If it's that easy you should set up your own business. You'd make a killing by the sounds of it :niceone:

Glad someone else sees what I'm pointing out here.
And going by Nordies numbers it sounds like the original American maker is making an 'excessive' profit also...

But until people have produced and marketed something themselves they'll never understand the cost of being in business.
I'm like Waihou, i'll scour the net and find the best deal, but I won't knock a business that's helping the adventure scene and taking a risk at same time bringing in a few farkle items for DR's etc
They were one of the first shops I saw to market a new DR with all the extras attached which helped me realise what you could do with these things.

Nek minnit I expect so see people stitching their own adv boots from roadkill cow carcass cause the shops charging too much...

Waihou Thumper
4th May 2014, 11:55
Nek minnit I expect so see people stitching their own adv boots from roadkill cow carcass cause the shops charging too much...

Now you have given me an idea....Holstein Friesian ADV boots...
Black and white...
How udderly ridiculous...:)

Big Dog
4th May 2014, 14:46
Glad someone else sees what I'm pointing out here.
And going by Nordies numbers it sounds like the original American maker is making an 'excessive' profit also...

But until people have produced and marketed something themselves they'll never understand the cost of being in business.
I'm like Waihou, i'll scour the net and find the best deal, but I won't knock a business that's helping the adventure scene and taking a risk at same time bringing in a few farkle items for DR's etc
They were one of the first shops I saw to market a new DR with all the extras attached which helped me realise what you could do with these things.

Nek minnit I expect so see people stitching their own adv boots from roadkill cow carcass cause the shops charging too much...

Aye, but the manufacturer has to take into account getting value for their intellectual property in a market where a faulty product will get you sued.


Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.

NordieBoy
4th May 2014, 17:30
Aye, but the manufacturer has to take into account getting value for their intellectual property in a market where a faulty product will get you sued.


Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.

It's not their intellectual property.

Tazz
4th May 2014, 17:42
Glad someone else sees what I'm pointing out here.


I was being a bit sarcastic there...


But until people have produced and marketed something themselves they'll never understand the cost of being in business.


Because of this...

If it is so easy to be in business go nuts, otherwise just buy where you feel you are getting a good deal. No need to drag people through the mud. People talk with their wallets. If their stuff is too expensive, it won't sell.

Oooorrrr, just up your skill level and make your own as above =) If you can't, cough up. Easy.

Anyway, dragging shit into a good thread sorry.

DR650gary
4th May 2014, 18:12
If it's that easy you should set up your own business. You'd make a killing by the sounds of it :niceone:


You must be psychic. Been in business for 36 years and while I haven't exactly made a killing I am still here. Fair return for investment is all I seek and prefer others to do the same. I prefer to buy locally and there are quite a few dealer/traders that do have a realistic margin and while it may be a tad dearer than o/seas sources that is the margin for immediacy and after sales service.

But a couple of bits of flat bar and bolts for $119 plus post does seem a bit greedy to me, especially as they are probably bought for a trade discount price o/seas.

I was just posting the listing to possibly help an unsuspecting member get ripped off.

Not local but close!

http://www.vincestrangmotorcycles.com.au/foot_pegs.html

Cheers

R650R
4th May 2014, 18:59
Anyway, dragging shit into a good thread sorry.

That's what normally happens with an internet argument it goes further off course than an ADV bike.

http://fantasticmemes.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/someone-is-wrong.jpg?w=604

So back to topic anyway, been looking at carbs is there any good options in NZ without too much hassle/mods???
The procycle mikuni option will be at least NZD 600 ish by the time you get it here but is pretty much bolt on, don't like the FCR option, too much to do by the looks of it.
Anyway people with pumper carbs/mods, how much better is it?

NordieBoy
4th May 2014, 19:05
FCR for people who like to fiddle, TM for the rest.
Much nicer down low and mid range.

chasio
4th May 2014, 19:08
You must be psychic. Been in business for 36 years and while I haven't exactly made a killing I am still here. Fair return for investment is all I seek and prefer others to do the same. I prefer to buy locally and there are quite a few dealer/traders that do have a realistic margin and while it may be a tad dearer than o/seas sources that is the margin for immediacy and after sales service.

But a couple of bits of flat bar and bolts for $119 plus post does seem a bit greedy to me, especially as they are probably bought for a trade discount price o/seas.

I was just posting the listing to possibly help an unsuspecting member get ripped off.

Not local but close!

http://www.vincestrangmotorcycles.com.au/foot_pegs.html

Cheers

If anyone is interested, I've got a set of those I could be persuaded to part with on friendly terms, since I am clearing out DR stuff I won't use (like the CS sprocket).

DR650gary
5th May 2014, 14:16
Now that the topic has been raised, has anyone got a comment on the real value/comfort of these. Looking at reinstalling a DR650 in the shed and can't remember whether my legs were compressed too much or not.

Thanks

R650R
5th May 2014, 16:40
Now that the topic has been raised, has anyone got a comment on the real value/comfort of these. Looking at reinstalling a DR650 in the shed and can't remember whether my legs were compressed too much or not.

Thanks

I'm six foot and have no space issues re legs n pegs, but then I come from a sportsbike background and have comfortable toured on the GSXR... prob more a personal preference, everyones used to different bikes n stuff over the years.
The standard seat causes far more comfort issues...

400sm
5th May 2014, 17:03
Do we know why 3rd gear breaks ?
Is it one, the pair, or alternating gears breaking?
Please direct me to a page on this forum. No doubt it has been discussed at large.

NordieBoy
5th May 2014, 18:56
Do we know why 3rd gear breaks ?
Is it one, the pair, or alternating gears breaking?
Please direct me to a page on this forum. No doubt it has been discussed at large.
It's the drive gear that goes but the reason is still being debated...

Hidden away in this thread...
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/39743-Newby-post-(NordieBoy)?p=1869406#post1869406

And in detail over here..,
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=424132

pete376403
5th May 2014, 18:59
have a look over on ADVrider.com - big thread there about it.

too slow again

NordieBoy
5th May 2014, 19:02
Now that the topic has been raised, has anyone got a comment on the real value/comfort of these. Looking at reinstalling a DR650 in the shed and can't remember whether my legs were compressed too much or not.

Thanks

They make the bike more comfortable and help bias the weight a little more to the rear when standing.

If you ride in rocky areas, the ProCycle lowered foot pegs would be a better option.

R650R
5th May 2014, 21:54
Do we know why 3rd gear breaks ?
Is it one, the pair, or alternating gears breaking?
Please direct me to a page on this forum. No doubt it has been discussed at large.

Funny you mention that, just skimmed across that on DR wiki while looking up some other stuff. And talking with someone else about all these internet legends of breakdowns it seems you could find enough of a problem about anything to cause a scare. Anyway the other site reckoned there were maybe 30 documented cases out of thousands of DRs sold and thrashed around the world.
Then step back and look at the abuse these bikes get from their owners which is where half the problems originate I reckon, overloaded doing jumps offroad etc compared to the sendentary farm duties the bike was probably designed for.
There's always a few lemons in any batch of motor vehicles, seen it truck fleets, there's always a couple that are cursed no matter who drives them while others of same model don't break etc...

Magnum Noel
5th May 2014, 22:03
Now that the topic has been raised, has anyone got a comment on the real value/comfort of these. Looking at reinstalling a DR650 in the shed and can't remember whether my legs were compressed too much or not.

Thanks

Missing the old DR mate? They seem to be getting more popular by the day.

badlieutenant
5th May 2014, 23:11
Get a pumper carb. Makes a huge difference :D

That's what normally happens with an internet argument it goes further off course than an ADV bike.

http://fantasticmemes.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/someone-is-wrong.jpg?w=604

So back to topic anyway, been looking at carbs is there any good options in NZ without too much hassle/mods???
The procycle mikuni option will be at least NZD 600 ish by the time you get it here but is pretty much bolt on, don't like the FCR option, too much to do by the looks of it.
Anyway people with pumper carbs/mods, how much better is it?

Oh and have I ok fuel economy i think...... riding slowly Auckland to wellington escorting a gn250 down I was getting about 270kms per 10 litres and it took 12 hours to get down. Coming back up the next day I thought I would get close to 550kms before refilling. I hit reserve half way between waiuru and turangi. I have no idea if there was any fuel actually in the tank when I got to turangi but my 20 Ltr tank took 20 Ltrs. So normal riding on open road I get 400Kms before a refill. Oh and it took 7 n half hours to get back :D

DR650gary
6th May 2014, 07:21
Missing the old DR mate? They seem to be getting more popular by the day.

Yes and no.

I sold my TDM as part of a long term plan but my son has a spare DR down south and he is looking at me as a storage option while he heads o/seas for a while. Seems fair to me, he gets a place to park and I get a free toy.

Cheers

NordieBoy
6th May 2014, 07:51
Oh and have I ok fuel economy i think...... riding slowly Auckland to wellington escorting a gn250 down I was getting about 270kms per 10 litres and it took 12 hours to get down. Coming back up the next day I thought I would get close to 550kms before refilling. I hit reserve half way between waiuru and turangi. I have no idea if there was any fuel actually in the tank when I got to turangi but my 20 Ltr tank took 20 Ltrs. So normal riding on open road I get 400Kms before a refill. Oh and it took 7 n half hours to get back :D

What tank do you have?

NordieBoy
6th May 2014, 07:57
Funny you mention that, just skimmed across that on DR wiki while looking up some other stuff. And talking with someone else about all these internet legends of breakdowns it seems you could find enough of a problem about anything to cause a scare. Anyway the other site reckoned there were maybe 30 documented cases out of thousands of DRs sold and thrashed around the world.
Then step back and look at the abuse these bikes get from their owners which is where half the problems originate I reckon, overloaded doing jumps offroad etc compared to the sendentary farm duties the bike was probably designed for.
There's always a few lemons in any batch of motor vehicles, seen it truck fleets, there's always a couple that are cursed no matter who drives them while others of same model don't break etc...

30 documented cases from members of KiwiBiker, Thumpertalk and AdvRider.

I think lugging the engine in 3rd, 4th and 5th is the main culprit.

badlieutenant
6th May 2014, 20:15
What tank do you have?

the acerbis 20ltr like the black one here >> http://www.motozone.co.nz/products/accessories/fuel-can/acerbis-16302-dr650.aspx

Waipukbiker
10th May 2014, 20:36
Just over a week ago I went to start the beast and just got a big click from the solenoid, got 12 volts at the starter so out it came. All clean inside but the ball bearing in the replacement end cap was close to loosing the plot entirely. hooked the seal off it and no sign of lube and some of the balls had seen better days. Only been on for 6 months and its not a daily ride. Its always started easy so not had much use as far as a bearing goes. lightly sanded the commutator, cleaned the grooves out, made sure the brushes were free in the guides, used a fully synthetic Moly grease in the original cap bush and re fitted, Spins over fine. Thought about getting a decent quality bearing for the aftermarket cap but had suspicion's about the alignment of the armature. Will see how this synthetic grease goes anyway.

R650R
10th May 2014, 21:12
You've had me googling, sounds like quite a job to fix such a small problem.

This guy has an interesting if slightly butch fix... http://webpages.charter.net/jrandall/starterfix/DR650_starter_fix.htm

Waipukbiker
10th May 2014, 21:21
What a load of crap about what you need to do to get the starter out, just need to remove the oil lines and the tensioner and out it comes. simple job. Will see how this grease goes anyway.

gpcustom
11th May 2014, 18:24
If anyone is after a dr650 bash plate I've just made 6 of them

NordieBoy
11th May 2014, 20:17
If anyone is after a dr650 bash plate I've just made 6 of them

No thanks, my current bash plate is doing the job nicely.

gpcustom
11th May 2014, 20:51
No thanks, my current bash plate is doing the job nicely.

That's good. Just used the last of my sheet might look at moving on to a new bash plate after this lot goes. Been boing the DR's for a long time now

PistolPete
14th May 2014, 09:42
Hey guys this is my first time, just joined this forum.

Firstly i have just purchased a 2013 DR650.

I jumped the gun and have ordered a (96 Marving exhaust) from "webmoto" in the UK.

Please tell me this will fit my bike?

Otherwise my misses is gana kill me for not finding out before purchasing.

Thanks guys

Oscar
14th May 2014, 10:15
Hey guys this is my first time, just joined this forum.

Firstly i have just purchased a 2013 DR650.

I jumped the gun and have ordered a (96 Marving exhaust) from "webmoto" in the UK.

Please tell me this will fit my bike?

Otherwise my misses is gana kill me for not finding out before purchasing.

Thanks guys

Don't stress, even if it doesn't fit, there are shitloads of DR's in NZ it will fit.

400sm
14th May 2014, 12:04
Hey guys this is my first time, just joined this forum.

Firstly i have just purchased a 2013 DR650.

I jumped the gun and have ordered a (96 Marving exhaust) from "webmoto" in the UK.

Please tell me this will fit my bike?

Otherwise my misses is gana kill me for not finding out before purchasing.

Thanks guys.
.
.
LOL
Your mrs' wrath will be mild compared to the caning you will get on here ! ;-))

oneblackflag
14th May 2014, 15:52
Hey guys this is my first time, just joined this forum.

Firstly i have just purchased a 2013 DR650.

I jumped the gun and have ordered a (96 Marving exhaust) from "webmoto" in the UK.

Please tell me this will fit my bike?

Otherwise my misses is gana kill me for not finding out before purchasing.

Thanks guys

Excellent 1st post, lots of lulz.

But what Oscar said.

PistolPete
14th May 2014, 18:25
Thanks for the support guys.....i think....although i think some of you will get more of a laugh if my first purchase fails miserably!
I hopefully will try to fit it while the misses is away caus if she sees it not fit ill wear it round the back of my head!

R650R
14th May 2014, 18:54
It should fit ok, I looked at those before I went for a DG O instead.
They look alright and breathe a little better than stock but not much weight loss compared to the others I read.
Just take it easy when you take the old one off as there is a gasket between the midpipe and header that you can reuse if you don't be too rough with it.
Will be interesting to see/hear it when your done.

PistolPete
14th May 2014, 19:03
Thanks for gasket advice.
I will take care and let you know how it all goes.

Phreaky Phil
11th June 2014, 21:01
Anyone have a stock DR650 seat they will sell ?

Cheers Phil

Eddieb
12th June 2014, 08:37
Anyone have a stock DR650 seat they will sell ?

Cheers Phil

The whole seat or just the foam and cover?

Phreaky Phil
12th June 2014, 17:47
The whole seat or just the foam and cover?

The whole seat or even seat base. I hacked mine up building our 2up seat

NordieBoy
12th June 2014, 18:47
Anyone have a stock DR650 seat they will sell ?

Cheers Phil

I've got one (of course :whistle:) but it's my race and trials seat. My Corbin is about 20kg heavier than the stocker...

butcherboy
14th June 2014, 08:11
i have the marving exhaust on i like it its not to loud or droning on a trip but lets the bike breath

R650R
15th June 2014, 10:00
i have the marving exhaust on i like it its not to loud or droning on a trip but lets the bike breath

Cool feedback. What's it like weight wise compared to the stock one.

TLDV8
15th June 2014, 20:20
Do we know why 3rd gear breaks ?
Is it one, the pair, or alternating gears breaking?
Please direct me to a page on this forum. No doubt it has been discussed at large.

A good deal of the discussion on the other forums was from people who simply wanted to disagree, they seemed to think all DR650 owners in the world post on the Internet.
I asked Nova Racing Transmissions in the UK to offer a explanation based on a set of OEM gears sent to them, they gave no answer.
I personally still think the base problem is over hardening, some of the failures were at near idle speeds and on low mileage easy use (as reported)
Even if it was a rare occurrence given the number of DR650SE's built since 1996 a gear body breaking into three pieces is never going to be normal.
Was there ever reports of failures on the pre 1996 DR650 ?

I found fifth gear had been deteriorating also on the tooth face at 42000 kms.
Even if these two gears which do a lot of work failed it would normally be worn tooth faces followed by possible tooth fracturing (as has happened on many gearbox'ss for decades)

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c345/manurewa/DR%20General/DRgear/DR6.jpg


Has there ever been any reports on the billet gear performance given they have been on the market for 2 years or so.
I still keep emailing Rekluse every 6 months (ish) and they still say looking into the DR650 clutch.

Waipukbiker
15th June 2014, 21:41
Ive heard of DRs doing over 100,000 kms without any issues too so there dousnt seem to be a common pattern of type of use. Im running a magnetic drain plug plus a magnetic washer in the filter housing so hopefully will give some warning of any tooth decay. I think the biggest strain on the trans is when power is put on at low revs and the engine gets very chunky, It feels like the balancer shaft cant cope with the power pulses at low revs so these "Power shocks" are being transmitted through the gears. Hard to avoid sometimes when in low gear on a tight uphill twisty track.

RogIrwin
15th June 2014, 22:25
Cool feedback. What's it like weight wise compared to the stock one.

Marving is about 3.5kg and the stock is about 8kg. Or at least that what I got on my scales ( unknown accuracy ).

Mo NZ
16th June 2014, 10:27
The whole seat or just the foam and cover?

I have a new seat cover and foam. No base.
pm me

Shoshoni
25th June 2014, 17:41
Here are some pics of my poor DR650SE K9 after third gear went, one gear was seized on the shaft and the other is in four bits.
Also the case on both sides has damage and the fork gear selector is broken.
Sorry about the cell phone quality pics.

298329 298330 298331 298332 298333 298334

Scubbo
25th June 2014, 17:52
:gob:

I saw a 3rd gear set for sale for this problem from procycle (http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html) -- but seems like it's a bit late for that now

badlieutenant
25th June 2014, 20:27
Here are some pics of my poor DR650SE K9 after third gear went, one gear was seized on the shaft and the other is in four bits.
Also the case on both sides has damage and the fork gear selector is broken.
Sorry about the cell phone quality pics.

298329 298330 298331 298332 298333 298334

Are all DR's made in the same factory since they started ? same suppliers etc ? My 96 is still going and apparently its done the amazon and Europe and Australia before I got my grubby mitts on it. Is this something I need to be paranoid about with high Kms ?

pomgolian
25th June 2014, 21:45
[QUOTE=Shoshoni;1130738148]Here are some pics of my poor DR650SE K9 after third gear went, one gear was seized on the shaft and the other is in four bits.
Also the case on both sides has damage and the fork gear selector is broken.
Sorry about the cell phone quality pics.

Sorry to see your grim pictures, can we have some more info please, Kms, kind of use, service schedules, when it happened, did you often run low revs under load ? (which has been mentioned as a possible contributor to a weak point failure) mines the same year and thought they may have rectified this issue by 2009 but obviously not.

Hope you find a cheap motor to get it going again.

Paul

NordieBoy
25th June 2014, 22:04
Do you remember what gear you were in when it happened?

NordieBoy
25th June 2014, 22:05
Are all DR's made in the same factory since they started ? same suppliers etc ? My 96 is still going and apparently its done the amazon and Europe and Australia before I got my grubby mitts on it. Is this something I need to be paranoid about with high Kms ?

What sort of km's has it done?

badlieutenant
25th June 2014, 22:21
What sort of km's has it done?

unknown. I think it did india as well. ALOT at a guess :D drbig (i think that is his handle on here) knows more about the couple and their journey. He had a picture of himself with his bike in the Andes or some place like that and he reckoned he has barely traveled compared to the German guy. My mate bought his bike off him (german guy) for 250$, un regoed. . A 94 version with the most comfortable seat Ive ever sat on :D the 94 vs 96, strangely, fell very similar to ride

RMOTO
25th June 2014, 22:54
Here are some pics of my poor DR650SE K9 after third gear went

That'll buff out ;)

Shoshoni
26th June 2014, 13:58
Here are some pics of my poor DR650SE K9 after third gear went, one gear was seized on the shaft and the other is in four bits.
Also the case on both sides has damage and the fork gear selector is broken.
Sorry about the cell phone quality pics.

Sorry to see your grim pictures, can we have some more info please, Kms, kind of use, service schedules, when it happened, did you often run low revs under load ? (which has been mentioned as a possible contributor to a weak point failure) mines the same year and thought they may have rectified this issue by 2009 but obviously not.

Hope you find a cheap motor to get it going again.

Paul

I used the bike on a daily basis and when going off road was mostly gravel roads.
The bike had over 60,000 kms, oil filter + oil changes every 4,000 kms and service schedules were done when it was time for them and I didn't run the bike in low revs.
The failure happened when I shifted into third gear going up a hill on the road, I felt a clunk - clunk then the back wheel locked and that was the end of my ride.

car
27th June 2014, 10:32
Here are some pics of my poor DR650SE K9 after third gear went, one gear was seized on the shaft and the other is in four bits.

298331

Yeah, that looks familiar. Mine went the same way. The details of mine are listed in the blowup thread over on Advrider, a thread I ended up unsubscribing from because I got tired of listening to endless circular arguments about how I shouldn't even be discussing a $2000 catastrophic failure with other people who'd experienced the same failure. Mine was perhaps complicated by the fact that I'd dropped the bike fairly heavily a few months before -- hard enough to twist the selector shaft. Entirely possible that I damaged something when that happened.

NordieBoy, last I heard, you were starting to see some sort of pattern -- mostly Aus/NZ, mostly in the 40k - 60k range? Dunno how that turned out.

I replaced mine with an XT660R which was a superior road bike IMHO, but too big, too covered in plastic, and too high-geared for me to handle confidently on dirt. Maybe a better rider could have got more out of it, but I missed the DR every time I so much as looked a dirt track.

TLDV8
27th June 2014, 13:03
Was the third driven gear sleeve removed prior to the picture, the oil hole in the shaft is showing but not the one that lines up with it in the bush ?

Shoshoni
27th June 2014, 14:55
Was the third driven gear sleeve removed prior to the picture, the oil hole in the shaft is showing but not the one that lines up with it in the bush ?

Yes it was removed prior to the picture been taking, it had seized itself to the gear.

NordieBoy
27th June 2014, 21:58
NordieBoy, last I heard, you were starting to see some sort of pattern -- mostly Aus/NZ, mostly in the 40k - 60k range? Dunno how that turned out.

If it's blown in <30,000km then it's from Oz.
30-60,000 and it's US/NZ.
If it makes it past 60,000 then it seems safe.

RogIrwin
27th June 2014, 22:28
If it's blown in <30,000km then it's from Oz.
30-60,000 and it's US/NZ.
If it makes it past 60,000 then it seems safe.

Mine has just hit 40k and whines in 3rd gear. Should I be worried?

TLDV8
27th June 2014, 23:36
Yes it was removed prior to the picture been taking, it had seized itself to the gear.

Given the pressure oil feed you would think that gear would be bullet proof as far as lubrication between the gear and bush.

Night Falcon
28th June 2014, 13:02
......I ended up unsubscribing from because I got tired of listening to endless circular arguments about how I shouldn't even be discussing a $2000 catastrophic failure with other people who'd experienced the same failure.

+1 I mentioned it here on a thread where an inmate was looking at a 2nd hand DR; got thanked by the OP and roundly rebuked by others - the reasoning - it's such a rarity it belongs in the realm of myths and fairy tales, and those that have read about it, researched it, and even experienced the 3rd gear "phenomenon" should stop the scaremongering.

The vagaries of an internet world I spose - plenty of real myths out there people are prepared to believe despite evidence to the contrary, like all KTM's are unreliable, high maintenance and overpriced (mainly propagated by WR205R owners apparently :laugh:)

Tazz
28th June 2014, 13:57
+1 I mentioned it here on a thread where an inmate was looking at a 2nd hand DR; got thanked by the OP and roundly rebuked by others - the reasoning - it's such a rarity it belongs in the realm of myths and fairy tales, and those that have read about it, researched it, and even experienced the 3rd gear "phenomenon" should stop the scaremongering.

The vagaries of an internet world I spose - plenty of real myths out there people are prepared to believe despite evidence to the contrary, like all KTM's are unreliable, high maintenance and overpriced (mainly propagated by WR205R owners apparently :laugh:)

I remember that and thought of it instantly when I saw the bad news over the page.


How many have you seen explode?


I think it's a good deal. If you buy it, please make sure you put cap heap screws and lock wire on the neutral switch :2thumbsup More of a real issue than the third gear one. They do get noisy in third, but it is quite rare that they "explode" and they're piss easy to split the cases on

Unfortunately one more is added to the list eh.

For all it's worth glad it happened on the road and not halfway round a corner with a steep dropoff in the middle of nowhere. Could always be worse.

NordieBoy
28th June 2014, 14:40
Mine has just hit 40k and whines in 3rd gear. Should I be worried?

My '97 whined it's whole life until 105,000km when it got pulled to be refurbished.

Keep the revs up and don't lug it, especially in 3rd, 4th, 5th...

NordieBoy
28th June 2014, 14:44
One of the things about these incidences, those who've been blessed by one, usually still ride a DR650.

The bikes really are that good.

JATZ
28th June 2014, 17:11
If it's blown in <30,000km then it's from Oz.
30-60,000 and it's US/NZ.
If it makes it past 60,000 then it seems safe.

What about Europe ? or don't they have them there ? Or Asia ? :scratch:


One of the things about these incidences, those who've been blessed by one, usually still ride a DR650.

The bikes really are that good.

Prolly cause they're to poor after fixing them there's nothing left in the kitty for anything else :bleh: ('cept maybe a klr, but we won't go there :D )

JATZ
28th June 2014, 17:18
+1 I mentioned it here on a thread where an inmate was looking at a 2nd hand DR; got thanked by the OP and roundly rebuked by others - the reasoning - it's such a rarity it belongs in the realm of myths and fairy tales, and those that have read about it, researched it, and even experienced the 3rd gear "phenomenon" should stop the scaremongering.

The vagaries of an internet world I spose - plenty of real myths out there people are prepared to believe despite evidence to the contrary, like all KTM's are unreliable, high maintenance and overpriced (mainly propagated by WR205R owners apparently :laugh:)

True... If you listened to every sob story about bike makes breaking down, and let that influence your decision then you'd prolly be riding a pushbike, or walking :crazy:
Personally I spent ages trawling the net finding out about the F800's. I now know what to look out for and what needs more attention than normal :D

NordieBoy
28th June 2014, 18:14
What about Europe ? or don't they have them there ? Or Asia ? :scratch:

Not sold in Europe over the counter for some weird reason.

SVboy
28th June 2014, 18:40
My mate bought transalpers old DR 650. His did the third gear blow up at around 99000kms.

NordieBoy
28th June 2014, 18:51
My mate bought transalpers old DR 650. His did the third gear blow up at around 99000kms.

Your mate blew it up or TransAlper?

SVboy
29th June 2014, 09:52
My mate bought transalpers old DR 650. His did the third gear blow up at around 99000kms.

IIRC the answer to that question is yes! When we stripped it down the damage was identical to shoshinis third gear but it was clear there had been previous internal carnage and repair. Perhaps TA could enlighten us?

Transalper
29th June 2014, 11:19
www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=8834403&postcount=1 (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=8834403&postcount=1)


NordieBoy OP
01-16-2009, 07:45 PM

DR650 3rd gear blowups
Compiling a list for posterity and interest...

NordieBoy 2001 60,000km
Transalper 2001 55,000km
Rosscoact 2004 13,000km
Mardy 1997 53,000km
TH 1999 40,000km
RubberCow80 2001 25,000km (2nd gear?)

Fixed by Kevin at KG Motorcycles.
Didn't expect it would happen again. Sold that bike to separate the riding focus, buying back the Transalp being bigger, heavier and especially more pillion friendly, and getting the WR250R for everything else.

NordieBoy
29th June 2014, 17:34
Wow. No other DR has gone twice. So 2nd blow up was 45,000km on the rebuild?

Mushu
30th June 2014, 09:45
My K7 DR650 blew up at about 19000 but not the third gear thing, it did the bottom end, probably as a result of a kind of nasty crash that happened about 1000k earlier leaving me with a broken collar bone.

TLDV8
30th June 2014, 17:49
I think my last post on ADV Rider was in 2012 perhaps in part due to the DR650 third gear thread and some of posts from people who even admitted they were clueless beyond changing a spark plug but continued to spam it every time a new entry was made.
The bottom line remains and that is, it will never be normal for a gear to break into three pieces even if rare.
As it turns out I ended up buying a complete transmission from MRCycles plus the billet gears.
If I get another fifth gear pairing that means the old transmission with the new OEM third would be a spare or on sold.
My DR is most definitely a keeper after that outlay, I'm thinking another 60000 kms before any major work.

<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c345/manurewa/DR%20General/DRgear/IMG_0674.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0674.jpg"/></a>

gpcustom
13th July 2014, 09:32
I have 2 dr650 bash plates left and one that I can sell as a second (so cheaper)

Once these are gone that will be the end of the dr bash plates for me Moving on to something else maybe KTM bash plates 😁

DR650gary
14th July 2014, 14:30
I'm on the bludge. The bike has arrived with a cracked headlight. I have been assured it passed a warrant previously with the cracks but I'm not too sure.

Anyone got a spare lurking they are prepared to sell me? With or without bulb.

Thanks

dino3310
14th July 2014, 19:42
just buy this one for parts :eek: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/dual-purpose/auction-754181703.htm

DR650gary
14th July 2014, 19:48
I think I should buy it and use mine for parts :weep:

NordieBoy
14th July 2014, 20:04
Got a spare headlight somewhere in the Emporium. Just need to check for cracks. Won't need it if I win that auction :D

Ally67
14th July 2014, 20:29
if I win that auction :D

maybe i should bid on it
after all its in my price range :facepalm::Pokey:

Big Dog
15th July 2014, 00:54
just buy this one for parts :eek: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/dual-purpose/auction-754181703.htm

I get "this auction has been withdrawn by an administrator." Just as well. I have less than $2 to my name.


Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.

RogIrwin
15th July 2014, 01:04
I get "this auction has been withdrawn by an administrator." Just as well. I have less than $2 to my name.


Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=754196472

It's now hit $1000!

NordieBoy
15th July 2014, 08:23
So someone complained about the auction and it was pulled...

When I was the high bidder too :(

DR650gary
15th July 2014, 08:49
Got a spare headlight somewhere in the Emporium. Just need to check for cracks. Won't need it if I win that auction :D

Thanks. PM me when/if you locate it and can bear to part with it.

Now, off to find a battery and a rear tyre.

Got this coming

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Motorcycle-ATV-12V-LED-Turn-Signal-Tail-Brake-Light-License-Plate-Holder-/191213962133?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160

so need to fabricate a little bracket holder and get a new number plate.

The bike has sat for almost 12 months in my son's shed and it started almost first pop with a jumper. Didn't even change the fuel.

Eddieb
15th July 2014, 09:14
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=754196472

It's now hit $1000!

Nordie, Thats your old white tank.

NordieBoy
15th July 2014, 09:39
Nordie, Thats your old white tank.

It does get around.

Got a good fuel tap :D

Night Falcon
15th July 2014, 13:57
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=754196472

It's now hit $1000!

hummm another DR for general ADV duties, why not? might click the watchlist tab. :corn:

R650R
17th July 2014, 22:20
The eternal mystery of the DR650 throttle position switch on carb... only engages at about 90%
Done some googling and general consensus is that it retards ignition at high revs for noise/emissions testing...
But all the threads tail off with no definitive answer, anyone ever get to the end of it, test???

R650R
17th July 2014, 22:31
Thanks. PM me when/if you locate it and can bear to part with it.

Now, off to find a battery and a rear tyre.

Got this coming

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Motorcycle-ATV-12V-LED-Turn-Signal-Tail-Brake-Light-License-Plate-Holder-/191213962133?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160

so need to fabricate a little bracket holder and get a new number plate.

The bike has sat for almost 12 months in my son's shed and it started almost first pop with a jumper. Didn't even change the fuel.

Let us know how you get on with that, think the clear lens (even though the light is red when on) is not legal for NZ.
You'll see a lot of cars about with clear outer covers over the tail and indicator/reverse assembly but the bit where brake led/light is still has a red reflector/background...

NordieBoy
18th July 2014, 07:43
The eternal mystery of the DR650 throttle position switch on carb... only engages at about 90%
Done some googling and general consensus is that it retards ignition at high revs for noise/emissions testing...
But all the threads tail off with no definitive answer, anyone ever get to the end of it, test???

Procycle tested it on the dyno and it made no difference.

Most of the US bikes don't have it at all.

R650R
18th July 2014, 08:22
Procycle tested it on the dyno and it made no difference.

Most of the US bikes don't have it at all.

Yes that info is already available, but still no one has definitely said what it does.
Is it just noise/emmisions control or does it give the plugs an easier time at extended high rpm...
Not a fan of Dyno for conclusive results, still never the same as extended real world conditions.

NordieBoy
18th July 2014, 08:47
But a wide open throttle run on a dyno, with and without the switch should give back numbers that show a difference even if it's unnoticeable in the real world.

DR650gary
18th July 2014, 09:35
Let us know how you get on with that, think the clear lens (even though the light is red when on) is not legal for NZ.
You'll see a lot of cars about with clear outer covers over the tail and indicator/reverse assembly but the bit where brake led/light is still has a red reflector/background...

Thought the swivel and the ability to choose which light for which purpose meant I could wire the white light for plate and the coloured for braking. If I point it downish I should be alright, or just stand at the back of the bike at wof time and divert attention.

Will let you know though.

Cheers

R650R
18th July 2014, 19:14
But a wide open throttle run on a dyno, with and without the switch should give back numbers that show a difference even if it's unnoticeable in the real world.

So whose gonna be a donor bike for the required HOURS on the Dyno, such a small change would need very long runs to measure meaningfull difference in fuel or plug life.
Had my GSXR1100 on Dyno once, what a racket that was... Dynos are good for measuring things like torque curve/peak power etc but nothing beats real world measurments for some things.

NordieBoy
18th July 2014, 21:24
Real world measurement for something that only happens at full throttle?

What sort of plug life do people normally get?

badlieutenant
18th July 2014, 22:44
And just to confuse things further re the throttle switch I read somewhere that it retards the ignition only for first and second gears.............Ive disabled mine but its hard to say if there is any difference to before.

NordieBoy
19th July 2014, 08:34
And just to confuse things further re the throttle switch I read somewhere that it retards the ignition only for first and second gears.............Ive disabled mine but its hard to say if there is any difference to before.

Nope. There's only a neutral sensor, no gear sensor.
Mine doesn't even have the neutral sensor...

DR650gary
19th July 2014, 10:19
New rear tyre and battery and the bike is up and running.

Can't remember my first DR but are the rear brakes really crappy or do I need to look further? I have taken up the adjustment needed to get the wheel in and out but there just seems to be little real bite.

Comments/recommendations?

Cheers

R650R
19th July 2014, 10:27
New rear tyre and battery and the bike is up and running.

Can't remember my first DR but are the rear brakes really crappy or do I need to look further? I have taken up the adjustment needed to get the wheel in and out but there just seems to be little real bite.

Comments/recommendations?

Cheers

Always found Suzuki OEM brakes front and rear to be pretty decent, might need a bleed or bit more of a pump after being disturbed...

DR650gary
19th July 2014, 13:22
Always found Suzuki OEM brakes front and rear to be pretty decent, might need a bleed or bit more of a pump after being disturbed...

Thanks. Really couldn't remember as it was a couple of years ago. Pressure is fine so I'll just get some more pads. My son rode a bit harder than I so they may be a bit crazed. Was just hoping the brakes were crap so could tick off another job.

Cheers

badlieutenant
20th July 2014, 03:00
Nope. There's only a neutral sensor, no gear sensor.
Mine doesn't even have the neutral sensor...

isnt that one of the recommendations to do to your dr ? remove a fault before it happens. Yer I did sort of wonder, without a sensor, how it knew what gear the bike was in.
Gary! back on a DR! :D If your up Auckland way drop us a line. It was the rims your son took off his DR I bought off you ? :D

NordieBoy
20th July 2014, 08:56
I'd leave the neutral sensor in and just make sure the screws were loctited in.
This engine came with the NSU missing.

DR650gary
20th July 2014, 09:15
Gary! back on a DR! :D If your up Auckland way drop us a line. It was the rims your son took off his DR I bought off you ? :D

It was his one I got back...minus number plate, rear indicators, working batteryand with rooted tyres and a cracked headlight. Good to see it has been used as Mr Suzuki intended.

It did come back with the Scottoiler, modified seat, carb work and a Two Brothers muffler. A win for me ;)

Cheers

badlieutenant
20th July 2014, 17:05
It was his one I got back...minus number plate, rear indicators, working batteryand with rooted tyres and a cracked headlight. Good to see it has been used as Mr Suzuki intended.

It did come back with the Scottoiler, modified seat, carb work and a Two Brothers muffler. A win for me ;)

Cheers

was the carb a pumper or stock tuned? do the pumper carb if it isnt already done gary. for me its like owning a very similar but way better bike.
sounds like he thrashed it. Like they are meant to be :D

DR650gary
23rd July 2014, 17:28
Replaced the pads and not a great improvement so I guess compared to the last couple of rides the brakes are crap.

Any offers of a headlight?

Thnaks

NordieBoy
24th July 2014, 07:43
Brakes bled? Haven't been able to look for a headlight yet...

DR650gary
24th July 2014, 13:50
Brakes bled? Haven't been able to look for a headlight yet...

The brakes bite at the right point just need a lot of push to get the stopping part done. Will do a bleed before putting it back on the road to be sure.

Thanks about the headlight.

Now, where did I put those sump plug magnets someone kindly sent?


Cheers

Transalper
24th July 2014, 17:49
The brakes bite at the right point just need a lot of push to get the stopping part done....

Braded brake line? I felt it helped mine. Not worlds apart but nicer all the same.

Big Dog
24th July 2014, 18:22
The brakes bite at the right point just need a lot of push to get the stopping part done. Will do a bleed before putting it back on the road to be sure.

Thanks about the headlight.

Now, where did I put those sump plug magnets someone kindly sent?


Cheers

It it's old, been standing a while or spent a time off road chances are a flush of the brakes and fresh fluid will do wonders.


Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.

DR650gary
24th July 2014, 19:37
It it's old, been standing a while or spent a time off road chances are a flush of the brakes and fresh fluid will do wonders.

Will try after the weekend. It has been sitting since the Dusty Butt (I think) 2012.

Feels good on the road though :2guns:

Big Dog
25th July 2014, 01:08
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/24/9ahaba7e.jpg from www.thereifixedit.com. Comment is to the effect that there is a downside to a long windy driveway. My first thought, them is mighty impressive panniers. Lol


Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.

DR650gary
25th July 2014, 08:24
There is a thread somewhere about stale petrol. The DR had been sitting untouched for over 2 years and started almost immediately with a decent battery.


Maybe the fuel was stale but it still went.

You gotta love big singles :cool:

Night Falcon
25th July 2014, 10:26
There is a thread somewhere about stale petrol. The DR had been sitting untouched for over 2 years and started almost immediately with a decent battery.


Maybe the fuel was stale but it still went.

You gotta love big singles :cool:

I bought an imported XR250 that had bad gas in it. It used to miss at high revs. Looked at electrics, timing, valves -turned out the fuel sitting in carb for so long had clogged the jets - mate of mine who is a bike mechanic ran some chemical through the carb which sorted it. strangely it had no problem starting?

400sm
25th July 2014, 20:00
There is a thread somewhere about stale petrol. The DR had been sitting untouched for over 2 years and started almost immediately with a decent battery.


Maybe the fuel was stale but it still went.

You gotta love big singles :cool:

Good onya bro ! ;-))

bart
25th July 2014, 21:31
I had a DRZ400 that was a shit to start if left sitting for over a couple of weeks. Drain the carb and it’d start straight away.

DR650 starts every time.

R650R
26th July 2014, 18:01
Speaking of carbs, the DR had a little upgrade today :) :wari: :wari: :wari: :wari: :wari:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0NXe246IFdvbEFXZXBLSllrUmc/edit?usp=sharing

NordieBoy
26th July 2014, 18:46
TM40 powar!

R650R
26th July 2014, 19:13
TM40 powar!

The way it wants to keep pulling like a train just past 99km/h, feels like could gear it up a tooth or two if first gear wasn't already so high from factory....

NordieBoy
27th July 2014, 09:48
I've got the FCR39 and 15/46 gearing. I like.

R650R
27th July 2014, 16:40
Stapled on the Procycle seat cover, MAJOR improvement in comfort, was fairly straightforward job.
Quite a surprising weight penalty over the stocker though...

Testing the lights later...

Eddieb
27th July 2014, 18:28
I've got the FCR39 and 15/46 gearing. I like.

I couldn't imagine 15/46. I've got the FCR39 and running 15/43. With 46 I reckon I wouldn't be able to keep the front wheel on the ground.

In saying that I do have a 14 tooth front I've been tempted to fit for a bit of fun.

R650R
27th July 2014, 19:39
I'm still on the standard gearing whatever that is. Would like lower first for river/creek crossings and obstacles but that's about it...

R650R
27th July 2014, 23:08
So I have a few spare bits now, are they worth selling or should I keep as spares.

Fairly mint original CV carb, original Suzuki throttle cables, original seat foam and cover came off cleanly. All only done a mere 14500km of work.
Then there's the original tank and exhaust pipe but they don't seem to go for much so prob keep so can sell as original spec when time comes and sell extras separately.

NordieBoy
28th July 2014, 07:35
I couldn't imagine 15/46. I've got the FCR39 and running 15/43. With 46 I reckon I wouldn't be able to keep the front wheel on the ground.

In saying that I do have a 14 tooth front I've been tempted to fit for a bit of fun.

14/46 is too low for anything bar closed course off road racing.
You can still cruise at 100-110kph at 15/46=14/43

Waipukbiker
28th July 2014, 17:35
15/43 is approx. 4,100 RPM at 100KPH. I normally run this unless doing a lot of shingle/tracks then fit a 14T. then its approx. 4,400 RPM.

NordieBoy
28th July 2014, 20:31
15/46 (14/43) is about 4700@100kph.

Waipukbiker
28th July 2014, 20:53
My Bike came with a Tacho when I brought it and Ive since replaced it with a Trail Tech Vapor unit, Both show the same readings as per my post. The Vapor speedo has been calibrated against a radar in a Cop car. (Took 4 drive byes at 100 KPH to get it right) So I will go by what my instruments are telling me.

NordieBoy
29th July 2014, 07:59
Mine will be out as I calibrated it 7 years ago with a different front tyre size and pressure.

gpcustom
31st July 2014, 17:59
anyone want my last dr 650 bash plate $150 :crazy:

Oscar
31st July 2014, 20:21
anyone want my last dr 650 bash plate $150 :crazy:

Wouldn't that double the value of most DR's?:innocent:

NordieBoy
31st July 2014, 21:15
Wouldn't that double the value of most DR's?:innocent:

Only the blue ones.

Box'a'bits
31st July 2014, 21:40
Blue.............. Thats because they prob get mistaken for low spec Yamaha's :chase:

Yes, I can see how that would wreck the value of any bike...

R650R
2nd August 2014, 13:01
Went for short test ride and did some roadside jet changes.
Dropped to 135 main jet from 140. Measured 3/4 to full roll on speed seems about same but cleaner response when shutting throttle.
Was tad windy so not entirely scientific...
135 smallest main it came with btw.

badlieutenant
2nd August 2014, 17:28
Im assuming you have seen mxrobs website gary ? http://www.mxrob.com/mxrob_004.htm
My dr and one other have followed his carb set up for jets, needles etc and it has worked mint.
Rob really seems to know his shit.

DR650gary
2nd August 2014, 23:27
Im assuming you have seen mxrobs website gary ? http://www.mxrob.com/mxrob_004.htm
My dr and one other have followed his carb set up for jets, needles etc and it has worked mint.
Rob really seems to know his shit.

When we got the bike it was set up as a super motard and before it's 2 year sabbatical it really motored. I just think it needs a decent cleanup in the carb and it will be stonking again.

The tail tidy/plate holder arrived. It has white/blue leds for the number plate and they change to red on the other circuit so I'll hook those into the brake circuit. The mounting will fit easily onto the current mounting points so not a bad unit for $9 delivered. May need a bit of silicon to keep water out but I have a bit of that lying around.

Cheers

dino3310
5th August 2014, 21:35
BBQ for DR riders

299763

Oscar
5th August 2014, 22:19
BBQ for DR riders

299763

I hear the fire brigade just down the street refused to attend because the diesel they would use to get there was more valuable than the DR.

Kaituna
5th August 2014, 22:39
I hear the fire brigade just down the street refused to attend because the diesel they would use to get there was more valuable than the DR.

That's a KLR old man.

NordieBoy
6th August 2014, 07:35
I see they haven't fixed the oil burning in the new gen KLR's.

Oscar
6th August 2014, 08:47
That's a KLR old man.

Yeah but there's no KLR pilots here...

bart
6th August 2014, 11:07
My front brakes are shot on the DR. I'm looking at the front caliper rebuild kit (US$22.95) and braided brake line (US$66.95) from Procycles, which seems good value. Went to the shopping cart thing and postage was quoted at $61.70. Even just the caliper parts was quoted at $56, which should fit in a small envelope.

I know a few of you guys have delt with Procycles. Is this freight estimate accurate?? We get larger parcels out from England for about NZ$15.

Box'a'bits
6th August 2014, 12:40
You can get more reasonable freight via Ebay, with the same kit :niceone:

Big Dog
6th August 2014, 13:13
Youshop are far ken expensive on physically large items but for a collection of gaskets in a std business envelope $15 bucks ought to do it. If the vendor packs both small enough for you $20 bucks will get you both I shipping inside the states is not too expensive. E.g I got some fancy carbon bar ends, $6 to get it to youshop, $20 to get them here to the door.

On the other hand the mrs bought something for the kids that was 13" cubed. $99 would have been $30 if all dimensions were 12". Or $56 if one side was under 12".

bart
6th August 2014, 14:41
You can get more reasonable freight via Ebay, with the same kit :niceone:

Wow, that ebay could do some damage to the credit card real quick.

Mo NZ
6th August 2014, 17:22
I priced up about 10 small items from Bikebandit. They wanted $80 to post.
I emailed them back and never got a reply.
The items would fit on the palm of 1 hand.

R650R
6th August 2014, 17:50
You can prob get those parts in NZ for reasonable price, Suzuki OEM stuff usually priced ok.
Essentially you'll only really need the O-rings and rubber boots. If the old ones aren't leaking I'd be inclined to just clean up the pistons with some metal polish, did that to GSXR once.

Procycles shipping outside of US is a premium airfreight express only option, pricey on small stuff alright. Get a youshop (or one of the better other providers) and will prob be about $NZ 30 all up to get it here.
Bikebandit must have changed, their shipping used to be a minimum $100, got a crappy email from them too ages ok trying to see if they could do another way (before I knew about youshop).
Bike bandit is good though for using the microfiche style exploded parts diagrams to see what bits you need though.

More info and other options here http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/166860-International-reshippers-youshop-etc

One of these would be nice http://www.beringer-brakes.com/en/moto/technologies/6-piston-aerotec-calipers-range-4.htm

Mo NZ
6th August 2014, 18:04
Cheers.
I found mx rob great with putting stuff in 1 box etc.

NordieBoy
6th August 2014, 18:10
My braided brake line was about $80 from the local bike shop.

bart
6th August 2014, 19:13
I’m chasing up some quotes at the moment. It seems it’s not always cheaper to buy online (or worth the shaging around). If the bike shop is even remotely competitive, I’d prefer to support them.

bart
6th August 2014, 19:27
You can prob get those parts in NZ for reasonable price, Suzuki OEM stuff usually priced ok.
Essentially you'll only really need the O-rings and rubber boots. If the old ones aren't leaking I'd be inclined to just clean up the pistons with some metal polish, did that to GSXR once.
]

While there was no obvious oil leakage, the seals have little strips of rubber coming off and small pits and grooves.There is sludge in the caliper itself, even though I’ve changed the oil a couple of times in the last 12 months. Dust is obviously getting in. The pistons seem in good condition.

The brake itself had a very ’wooden’ feel. There was no progressive feel. Towards the end it was more like a switch, on or off, with on being locked up. I’m sure it, along with a bald front tyre, contributed to my little accident a few months back.:facepalm:

pomgolian
6th August 2014, 20:30
+1 Bart i do try & buy local but some things here are just priced ridiculously high compared to online, youshop does work selectively i shipped some ebay bits from one side of the states to the other for $6 US then used a 50% discount code they gave me as i complained when they downright ripped me off on some car parts (delivery). Some ebay sellers will happily ship inside the states freight free.

Guess if you have time and like to mess around on the tinternet you can save some $$$$

Braided hoses & seal kits should be reasonable here as the hoses are made here and seal kits are cheap enough.

In a former life i used http://www.apexautocentre.co.nz/5/home allot for brake seals old or hard to find parts, shit like caliper kits and booster overhauls, looks like they do bikes as well.

pete-blen
6th August 2014, 21:06
Just got a front & rear braided lines for the TTR..
From a aussie guy that sells on Ebay...
$32 a line + $10 shiping...
He lists them by model & length so easy to
get the right line if hes not listed yer model...

they look alright... not tryed them yet..











.

dino3310
6th August 2014, 22:24
Just got a front & rear braided lines for the TTR..
From a aussie guy that sells on Ebay...
$32 a line + $10 shiping...
He lists them by model & length so easy to
get the right line if hes not listed yer model...

they look alright... not tryed them yet..











.

got a linky bro, thinkin about some for the xr

Sent from my GT-I9070 using Tapatalk 2

pete-blen
7th August 2014, 19:00
got a linky bro, thinkin about some for the xr

Sent from my GT-I9070 using Tapatalk 2

Here's a link to his Ebay store...... up to you from here....
http://www.ebay.com/usr/krisodemus?_trksid=p2047675.l2559

pomgolian
7th August 2014, 19:54
I know most WOF testers probably wouldnt check but do they need approval marked, i think from memory when i got one for the WR it was mentioned.

Box'a'bits
7th August 2014, 20:01
I know most WOF testers probably wouldnt check but do they need approval marked, i think from memory when i got one for the WR it was mentioned.
They do bloody check in Wgtn & try to fail perfectly legal lines....:angry2: Just make sure that the fittings are crimped & that there is at least a makers mark on the fitting.

Eddieb
7th August 2014, 21:01
When I bought my Ducati 888 in from England I had to replace all the braided lines as they were crimped but didn't have any markings. Later on My R80G/S was rejected due to the front line having markings but not being crimped, and the old coot at the testing station in Seaview got very agro and almost abusive at me when I asked him to explain in plain english what swaged meant and he couldn't, turns out it's technical for crimped.

pete-blen
7th August 2014, 21:23
No making's what so ever on the ones I have...

dino3310
7th August 2014, 22:53
Here's a link to his Ebay store...... up to you from here....
http://www.ebay.com/usr/krisodemus?_trksid=p2047675.l2559

cheers Pete:niceone:

bart
13th August 2014, 19:49
Well I got the new front brake caliper seals. Was quoted real cheap from the local bike shop. Went to pick them up, only to find it was one set of seals, not two (twin piston caliper). They got the second set in over night and it came to under $50. I could have got the seals and spare rubber bits and new slide pin for the same money on line. I guess these are genuine Suzuki parts so probably worth it. I've had bad experiences with after market fork seals in the past, so a round bit of rubber may not always be just a round bit of rubber.

Fitting the seals was easy. No drama getting the pistons back in either. I'd bled the brakes plenty of times, but never with the hose completely empty of oil. Once I figured out that you just go like hell for a couple of minutes to chase the air bubbles down the line, that too was no problem. Polished up the slide pin with a dremil and buffing disc. Not quite like new, bit it'll do.

Went for a quick spin. The road was wet so couldn't really give it a good test, but now I've got some brake feel back. While the old girl doesn't pull up like a light weight dirt bike or twin disc sports bike, it's a hell of a lot better then it was. There's a lot more feel now. I'll still look into the braided lines when I get a chance. I might even have a go at the back brake and see if I can get that working better.

One happy camper.:cool:

pomgolian
13th August 2014, 20:09
Bart its easier to suck the fluid from the bleed nipple with a bleed sucker thingy or a large syringe rather than trying to pump the fluid through from the top - glad the brakes are better not that you ever used them when im trying to follow you :rolleyes:

bart
13th August 2014, 20:26
Bart its easier to suck the fluid from the bleed nipple with a bleed sucker thingy or a large syringe rather than trying to pump the fluid through from the top - glad the brakes are better not that you ever used them when im trying to follow you :rolleyes:

Ahhhhh. Tricks of the trade eh. If my way didn’t work I was going to invert the whole system (raise the caliper and line above the master cylinder...or tip the bike upside down...it should be used to that). Bubbles move slow in oil so it doesn’t take too much to chase them out.

R650R
14th August 2014, 17:03
Replaced front sprocket today as interim measure. Will prob convert soon (rear starting to wear but not bad) to a 520 chain and sprocket set but apparently hard to come by for the DR650.

Front at 15000km https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0NXe246IFdvOWR3cHkxWUxKeE0/edit?usp=sharing

RogIrwin
14th August 2014, 17:22
Replaced front sprocket today as interim measure. Will prob convert soon (rear starting to wear but not bad) to a 520 chain and sprocket set but apparently hard to come by for the DR650.

Front at 15000km https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0NXe246IFdvOWR3cHkxWUxKeE0/edit?usp=sharing

No. I recently did mine. Plenty or places sell JT sprockets including most bike shops.

http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/sprocket/JTR822
http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/sprocket/JTF438

NordieBoy
14th August 2014, 18:58
Replaced front sprocket today as interim measure. Will prob convert soon (rear starting to wear but not bad) to a 520 chain and sprocket set but apparently hard to come by for the DR650.

RGV250 rear sprocket. <96 DR650 front sprocket.
DR750 front sprocket is better though.

bart
14th August 2014, 20:06
RGV250 rear sprocket. <96 DR650 front sprocket.
DR750 front sprocket is better though.

What’s the benefit of the smaller pitch chain/sprocket combo? Surely the cost difference would be minimal.

NordieBoy
14th August 2014, 20:29
$200 for an EK chain and a pair of JT sprockets.
A DID VM2 (stock DR650) is over $300 and a cheaper DID 525 is $200 just for the chain.

Bigger gearing choice mainly.

bart
15th August 2014, 04:43
$200 for an EK chain and a pair of JT sprockets.
A DID VM2 (stock DR650) is over $300 and a cheaper DID 525 is $200 just for the chain.

Bigger gearing choice mainly.

I guess it’s worth it. Seems funny a 40 odd horsepower bike got such a big chain in the first place.

R650R
15th August 2014, 08:23
No. I recently did mine. Plenty or places sell JT sprockets including most bike shops.

http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/sprocket/JTR822
http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/sprocket/JTF438

Well nothing specific listed on there confirming what I said. Now before the 'internet' jumps on the bandwagon I'm perfectly aware of cross referencing parts of which Suzuki is good for across many models.
But I was just quoting the Best bike mechanic and shop in HB, and by hard to come by meaning not instantly in stock at NZ suppliers according to my source.

I think its a marketing con and spare parts racket Bart by the manufacturers that prob catches out a lot of people like farmers and newbies who wouldn't be aware of price difference. Bit like 190 section rear tyres when 180 is practically the same unless you are some god of rear wheel steering talent.
First switched to 520 from 525 years ago on other bikes. Asked in the shop yesterday if price difference still big, hoping it might have equalised but still a big gap.
Even my 98 750 came out with 25 as new and switched to a 520 at 50 000ish km and its still on there performing ok.

badlieutenant
15th August 2014, 12:26
hey gary, I ordered my 520 front sprocket thru suzuki in aucks and it took 3 months to get here, by that time I had used wemoto >>http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/suzuki/dr_650_rses_sp43/94-95/picture/sprocket_front_-_jt/
and it arrived in 4 or 5 days. I think that is the sprocket I used as well. Extra tooth over stock which makes open road use alot easier. I think I modded the stock retainer to suit.
oh and some info on the 520 mod >>>http://dr650.wikia.com/wiki/520_Conversion

R650R
15th August 2014, 12:39
I'll never use wemoto again. Took forever (as in months) on some Puch parts and the communication pretty piss poor...
Feckers have time to update their facebook page every day but takes over week to respond to freakin emails :(

badlieutenant
15th August 2014, 12:47
I'll never use wemoto again. Took forever (as in months) on some Puch parts and the communication pretty piss poor...
Feckers have time to update their facebook page every day but takes over week to respond to freakin emails :(

Ahh k, ebay ? >>520 sprocket (http://www.ebay.com/itm/JT-16T-Front-Sprocket-520-for-Suzuki-DR650SE-1996-2012-/321342058293?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ad17aaf35&vxp=mtr)
lots of options faster than "waiting for container to arrive in the country" :D

Danger Dave
15th August 2014, 12:54
Also New Zealand site Bits4bikes http://www.bits4bikes.co.nz/parts/suzuki/5278.aspx plenty of 520 pitch chains & sprockets currently in stock and available.

DR650gary
15th August 2014, 13:10
Hmmmmmmm. :innocent:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JT-520-O-Ring-Chain-Sprocket-Kit-14-42-for-Suzuki-DR650SE-1996-2012-/331125730485

NordieBoy
15th August 2014, 15:20
I get my JT (15t front DR750, 46t rear RGV250) sprockets from the local bike shop. Last set back in May was shipped overnight.

DR650gary
15th August 2014, 19:56
I'm still on the lookout for a headlight. I have spotted a few on Ebay but they are all in the US and I have a feeling the light spread pattern will be wrong.

Anyone know if that is correct?

Cheers

NordieBoy
16th August 2014, 07:57
Found my spare headlight. No cracks I could see from a quick glance.

DR650gary
16th August 2014, 09:12
PM Sent.

Cheers

pomgolian
16th August 2014, 09:14
I'm still on the lookout for a headlight. I have spotted a few on Ebay but they are all in the US and I have a feeling the light spread pattern will be wrong.

Anyone know if that is correct?

Cheers

Correct no good as they drive on the wrong side of the road so the beam is incorrect for NZ market

Denniso
30th August 2014, 20:10
Finally got my DR back on the road again , dam it's good to be back on the gravel .300421

RogIrwin
7th September 2014, 20:08
Just about every DR650 that I look at has dents on the back of the oil cooler. Silly question but does anyone have any idea what the cause is?

I don't think that a stone or anything like that could be responsible as your leg would be in the way.

300691

Big Dog
7th September 2014, 23:38
Looks to me like a set of knuckles. From tightening or loosening a local bolt etc?
I had similar dents on the back of a Suzuki radiator. From when doing a coolant flush a spanner popped off the hose clamp.


Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.

R650R
8th September 2014, 08:33
Careless washing with high pressure hose can do same too.
Should take a pic of the front of the GSXR rad, its had plenty of stone, bird, roadkill strikes, looks 100 times worse, has zero effect on engine temp, just looks ratty.

Mo NZ
8th September 2014, 16:36
They seem to bend if you even look hard at the fins.

Denniso
8th September 2014, 17:19
How many k's has the bike done? Mine has 40k's of abuse and one fairly major blow up and it looks better than that .

RogIrwin
8th September 2014, 20:00
Careless washing with high pressure hose can do same too.

I think you might be right. It's consistent with water damage but it's only ever been washed with a garden hose. Pressing gently, I flex them with my finger and I can see that a hose might have enough pressure to bend them over.

RogIrwin
8th September 2014, 20:10
How many k's has the bike done? Mine has 40k's of abuse and one fairly major blow up and it looks better than that .

The bike in the photo isn't mine and is less than a year old. My bike is much the same and also has about 40K of abuse on the clock.

RogIrwin
8th September 2014, 20:25
They seem to bend if you even look hard at the fins.

Yeah, surprised how soft they are.

R650R
8th September 2014, 22:49
Well I just went out to the shed an apologised to my bike for the abuse it had over the weekend and had a closer look...

Mine has two very small dings on back. At a guess I'd say there's probably still some random road shrapnel bouncing even in that direction from either the bike it self or other traffic passing both ways...

DR650gary
13th September 2014, 09:31
Looks like I dodged a bullet.

While removing the battery while doing some wiring I dropped the terminal screw. Because I'm a blind bastard I got some wifely assistance who picked up the screw and also held up a round plate with 3 bolt holes. It was wedged between the frame and motor and is called a sprocket retainer.

I pulled the cover hoping it was just a spare that had been replaced but nope, no retainer present. Pretty sure the sprocket would have eventually fallen off but maybe not :baby:

I spent 2 hours reworking the indicators with really nice plugs to allow quick removal only to find that the plugs would not fit through the mounting holes, then discovered the locking bolts sitting on the bench. Out with the cutters and back to old fashioned push plugs.

The number plate light does glow blue and is visible from the rear so will wait to see what VTNZ do about that and the cracks in the headlight.

Cheers

pomgolian
13th September 2014, 10:10
That was lucky - take it to a local bike shop most are generally allot more realistic than PITA jobsworths

rian
15th September 2014, 01:10
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3924/14659164045_3aacce2080_b.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/rianlouise/14659164045/) image (https://www.flickr.com/photos/rianlouise/14659164045/) by Rian2008 (https://www.flickr.com/people/rianlouise/), on Flickr

Transalper
15th September 2014, 11:38
...will wait to see what VTNZ do about that and the cracks in the headlight.

Cheers

If the cracks don't run over a corner edge you should be able to stick that clear anti scratch film on the front of the light and all be good again so I heard... once... from where I can't remember.

R650R
15th September 2014, 18:50
Any crack in a lamp/lens is a fail now as water may get in and cause bulb to blow short etc... Repair not allowed, prob as its too hard to produce a standard to measure/assess that type of repair.
High stop spoiler lamp failed, thought about pulling it apart to repair. Guy then mentioned the crack issue as above if I broke it pulling it apart (which I did in thend :( )

pomgolian
15th September 2014, 20:10
Any crack in a lamp/lens is a fail now as water may get in and cause bulb to blow short etc... Repair not allowed, prob as its too hard to produce a standard to measure/assess that type of repair.
High stop spoiler lamp failed, thought about pulling it apart to repair. Guy then mentioned the crack issue as above if I broke it pulling it apart (which I did in thend :( )

Think he was pulling ur leg possibly for his own gain as its always been as long as its sealed and doesnt show any white light (as in rear lights) then they cant fail it (unless rules have changed recently) seen so many front lights sealed or covered which are a WOF pass.

R650R
15th September 2014, 21:46
Think he was pulling ur leg possibly for his own gain as its always been as long as its sealed and doesnt show any white light (as in rear lights) then they cant fail it (unless rules have changed recently) seen so many front lights sealed or covered which are a WOF pass.

It was recent (last 12 months) and the guys at Onekawa testing station pretty good (few are in classic club). He was pretty clear about it, any cracked lens is a fail.


http://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/motorcycles/lighting/headlamps

Reasons for rejection:

"Condition (Note 4)

8. A lamp is insecure, obscured, or contains moisture in the form of large droplets, runs or puddles.

9. A lens is missing, or has a hole, crack or other damage that allows moisture or dirt to enter."

Like any WOF issue all depends on the assessor and what side of bed he got out of that morning...

pomgolian
15th September 2014, 22:09
It was recent (last 12 months) and the guys at Onekawa testing station pretty good (few are in classic club). He was pretty clear about it, any cracked lens is a fail.


http://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/motorcycles/lighting/headlamps

Reasons for rejection:

"Condition (Note 4)

8. A lamp is insecure, obscured, or contains moisture in the form of large droplets, runs or puddles.

9. A lens is missing, or has a hole, crack or other damage that allows moisture or dirt to enter."

Like any WOF issue all depends on the assessor and what side of bed he got out of that morning...

Think you been had mate nothing there that says it can't be repaired as long as it's sealed not allowing water in then shouldn't be a problem - been out of the game for nearly two years so will check with a mate in the week.

R650R
16th September 2014, 07:39
Think you been had mate nothing there that says it can't be repaired as long as it's sealed not allowing water in then shouldn't be a problem - been out of the game for nearly two years so will check with a mate in the week.

Not been had, merely reporting what one of the most experienced guys there said, whose given me a little leeway on things in past. And mine wasn't broken at time, discussing other changes to laws so nothing for him to gain in the pisstake games.
Any of those tapes will eventually fail so they are not a permanent repair. I've used some of that headlamp protecter tape I had left over to protect part of mountain bike frame from cable chaff, its already peeling up at the edges from minor solvent exposure and less washes than what most peoples cars get.
I've seen plenty of attempted repairs over the years to truck trailer lenses, they all end up failing in the end and letting water in.
As said before will be one of those tester discretion things. A crack is a crack and I don't think they are going to sit there and argue if it lets water in or not and/or how effective/durable your repair is.

NordieBoy
16th September 2014, 08:52
"Condition (Note 4)

8. A lamp is insecure, obscured, or contains moisture in the form of large droplets, runs or puddles.

9. A lens is missing, or has a hole, crack or other damage that allows moisture or dirt to enter."

So if it's cracked but hasn't got any moisture or dirt, then it's sweet as all they can test for is the condition at that point in time?

badlieutenant
16th September 2014, 22:46
Gary i had a chip/smalll hole in my vfr lens years ago and I think a novus repair guy put a film over the whole lens (not thin, it is about 3 mm thick) and it is still on there, that was in 2002. You could hit my lens with a hammer and it would break but remain entirely in place. possible option for you.........

badlieutenant
16th September 2014, 23:07
oh and has anyone got a tank (original or not) for a 94 650 ?

DR650gary
17th September 2014, 10:37
May need a bit more than a film :laugh:

JATZ
17th September 2014, 12:14
Gary i had a chip/smalll hole in my vfr lens years ago and I think a novus repair guy put a film over the whole lens (not thin, it is about 3 mm thick) and it is still on there, that was in 2002. You could hit my lens with a hammer and it would break but remain entirely in place. possible option for you.........
Gary.... I really think you should take that offer up :D:
Is the hammer supplied or would he need his own ? :scratch:

R650R
17th September 2014, 16:57
oh and has anyone got a tank (original or not) for a 94 650 ?

Will the newer ones fit or not? Have mint k12 white tank and oem exhaust and carbie too...

Gary we've all been splitting hairs over cracks here, Jesus that's an aerial view of the grand canyon not a crack! :)

badlieutenant
19th September 2014, 08:31
Gary.... I really think you should take that offer up :D:
Is the hammer supplied or would he need his own ? :scratch:

to be fair anyone who hit the vfr with a hammer would have my 20oz eastwing I use everyday smashed thru their kneecaps. So yes, a hammer can be supplied.

Gary, that looks like a broken lens not a crack. :/

R650r, unfortunately the newer ones dont fit. I lent my mate a spare tank off my bike to take a look. He didn't even bother trying to hard. Apparently its considerably different :/ I may be interested in the stock muffler tho.....

badlieutenant
21st September 2014, 22:28
Nice upgrade for someone. fcr carb off a ktm 520, 39mm.............http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=783236476

R650R
28th September 2014, 11:00
Got bored so weighed up the DR and other bits just out of interest. We have a fairly good set of digital bathroom scales that are giving consistant results so setup a mini weighbridge with some wood blocks in shed so all was level etc.

First up my gear:
Helmet and boots together 4kg
RST Jacket and Pants with beacon in pocket 5kg
Tankbag on rear with tools and two cameras and other gear 9kg

Bike with half tank of gas rough and two half worn tyres. Acerbis tank, tool tube with tools, engine armour, bash plate, alloy rack, Zeta BB, LED spots, Procycle seat (v heavy) DG exhaust (much lighter than OEM), tankbag with tools bit no camera gear. 167.4kg

The gross weight of 167.4kg obtained after average 3-4 readings at each end as measurements fluctuated by -/+ half kg due to gas sloshing about I guess. Had corrugated cardboard to protect scales then plywood pad to spread weight evenly where feet would stand.

Front/Rear weight bias works out at 47%F 53%R at 78.1kg and 89.3kg

Denniso
28th September 2014, 17:55
:lol::lol::lol:Beacon in pocket ? I would have thought that you would most likely have bacon in your pocket , fatty.

XF650
28th September 2014, 20:58
let the bidding commence: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=786612540&ed=true

Shewolf
29th September 2014, 08:25
let the bidding commence: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=786612540&ed=true

oo I'm keen, step away from the place bid button folks :spanking:

R650R
29th September 2014, 16:17
:lol::lol::lol:Beacon in pocket ? I would have thought that you would most likely have bacon in your pocket , fatty.

Hmmmm maybe I should, I'm worried your anorexia will get the better of you one day and you'll need some emergency calories :apint: :laugh:

http://img1.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20111123023710/southpark/images/6/67/StarvinMarvin_16.jpg

Denniso
29th September 2014, 19:23
MMMMMMMM Bacon , meat candy . :p

chasio
29th September 2014, 19:37
oo I'm keen, step away from the place bid button folks :spanking:

You are likely to have a fair bit of competition. Maybe even from Freewind owners...

XF650
30th September 2014, 11:31
But wait, there's more:
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=787283754&ed=true

Eddieb
30th September 2014, 11:48
But wait, there's more:
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=787283754&ed=true

Have put a bid on, exactly the gearing mine is running and mine are about ready for replacement

XF650
30th September 2014, 12:15
Have put a bid on, exactly the gearing mine is running and mine are about ready for replacement

Thanks Eddie and good luck.
They are a bit over-size for the DT230...

XF650
3rd October 2014, 21:22
I have a slightly used PBI 525 16t front sprocket, if anyone wants it.
Handy for experimenting with tall gearing.
Free to a good home.
PM me here.
XF.

TangoCharlie
7th October 2014, 15:21
Just spotted new 17" wheel sets on Torpedo 7 for the mighty DR650.
Anyone brought them yet? They are a lot cheaper than any from Aussie or USA especially with our collapsing $

CrazyFrog
10th October 2014, 16:54
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/dirt-bikes/auction-791382671.htm

Might be fixable, looks like it'd have bent headstock. Could be good for donor engine, exhaust etc. Nice aftermarket seat, bigger tank (if you don't mind scratches)

NordieBoy
10th October 2014, 17:02
Someone wants it more than me :D

R650R
17th October 2014, 16:40
Its up to $900 now...

Had bugger all juice in the tank other day after 330km leg from d'virke-Porongaroa-Napier, so drained out left side of Acerbis20L tank fully.
Pretty much bang on one litre and sitting on the other side was about the same or slightly less. Tipped back in and fuelled up 0.5km up road and put in exactly 20L.
So that means the Acerbis natural expansion takes it to just under 22L capacity.
16.5km/L well it was a spirited ride :)

DR650gary
24th October 2014, 17:06
Finally got the indicators sorted with a Chinese pulse unit for LED's and wired in the plate light. It is blueish until the brakes are applied when it glows red.

Not sure how it will be received at VTNZ and I may have to apply some red paint to block out the rear facing blue section.

Looks good though although the red didn't show up too brightly in the photo as the battery is a bit down due to all the continual testing when the headlight is on. Must wire in an off switch for the headlight.

Now I only have to find a headlight to fit and I'm back on the road.

Cheers

XF650
3rd November 2014, 21:34
Got a new DR650 / XF650 base gasket if anyone wants it.
PM me here.
XF

XF650
4th November 2014, 11:30
It's the updated metal version.
Free to a good home.

Aslan
5th November 2014, 13:58
considering selling my DR now I've retired - currently on TradeMe and ADVRider

NordieBoy
5th November 2014, 16:10
considering selling my DR now I've retired - currently on TradeMe and ADVRider

Nooo!

Next will be a BMW and a pipe and slippers!

It's a slippery slope...

Aslan
5th November 2014, 16:54
Nooo!

Next will be a BMW and a pipe and slippers!

It's a slippery slope...

Fran you know I'm already one of those old geezers with a pipe and slippers Bimmer 😉

I do have another DR in Melbourne though - hard to justify two when income is limited to the pension