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XF650
11th November 2014, 17:57
Got a new DR650 / XF650 base gasket if anyone wants it.
PM me here.
XF

Gone to a new home.

Motnz
29th November 2014, 12:48
Hey guys, i'm Tom from Auckland. Just got this DR650 from a guy who had it sitting for 5 years, I cleaned the carb (check out that main jet :blink:) added new plugs and gas and she fired right up. It's my first adv bike and i love it! Can't wait to get out on some dirt...

http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag25/Motnz/0B697E9A-6241-4A7D-A14B-19082B851170_zpskn1tzc7u.jpg (http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/Motnz/media/0B697E9A-6241-4A7D-A14B-19082B851170_zpskn1tzc7u.jpg.html)
http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag25/Motnz/FFE34AD6-F306-462C-B462-C39F672BE335_zpshijwthn6.jpg (http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/Motnz/media/FFE34AD6-F306-462C-B462-C39F672BE335_zpshijwthn6.jpg.html)

NordieBoy
29th November 2014, 18:14
Welcome, and wow...

MarkH
3rd December 2014, 15:54
Probably a few months away but I'm thinking that the DR650 might be a good starting out dual sport for me.
I'd be keeping the ST1300 for pure road use but using the DR for rides involving off road.
Looking to join Northern Gravel Adventure Riders Nz and going to some events and going to a training day.
I haven't really done any off-road riding, but it looks like it would be fun and it would avoid that problem where having too much fun puts me at risk of being pulled over.

I had been thinking about a KLR650 but after reading a bunch of stuff I think that I'd like the DR more.
Maybe if I was to only have 1 bike I might consider something more road orientated, but the DR should be better off road and I have my ST for on-road trips.

The more I read up on what's available it seems that there is a lot of suitable places to go off road in both the North Island and South Island, currently I'm missing out on a lot of fun!
I guess I better be saving some money and buying me a DR.

R650R
3rd December 2014, 18:38
Dragged the DR out of the shed for late ride, hasn't been touched in at least four weeks, started first pop :)

MarkH
20th December 2014, 07:03
Probably a few months away but I'm thinking that the DR650 might be a good starting out dual sport for me.


Well, that escalated quickly!
I've bought a 2008 DR650 with 19,000 kms on the clock and will be flying to Blenheim on the 1st of January to pick it up.

The seller lists a bunch of stuff he's done to it:

has been upgraded abit I do have all original parts though

acerbic 20ltr tank
duel fuel taps
uni air filter
6mm bash plate
acerbic jet bark busters
seat is stock but had it reupholstered so its now nice and soft for longer trips
heavy duty rear spring and stiffened front forks so now rides really well
heated grips
bajaworx screen
lowered foot pegs
fmf powerbomb header pipe
fmf power core q4 muffler
fcr flat side carb
Clymer manual
bike stand
tag fat bars
tag risers
givi panniers

That seems like a pretty nice bunch of mods, hopefully there isn't much that I'll have to spend on the bike.

The seller posted a video of the bike running: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9mu3Bwen224&feature=youtu.be
Looks & sounds alright to me.

I guess I'll have to look into some good rides to go on.

Eddieb
20th December 2014, 08:55
Well, that escalated quickly!
I've bought a 2008 DR650 with 19,000 kms on the clock and will be flying to Blenheim on the 1st of January to pick it up.

The seller lists a bunch of stuff he's done to it:


That seems like a pretty nice bunch of mods, hopefully there isn't much that I'll have to spend on the bike.

The seller posted a video of the bike running: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9mu3Bwen224&feature=youtu.be
Looks & sounds alright to me.

I guess I'll have to look into some good rides to go on.

Awesome, there's a few DR riders in the Waikato and we organise a few day rides, often at fairly short notice.

Waihou Thumper
21st December 2014, 08:18
Nice stuff. Well kitted out for riding.
Always good buying a bike that doesn't need anything except an oil change and fuel:)

ducatijim
21st December 2014, 10:05
Anyone interested.......

I am going to market my 2011 dr650, it is completely farkled for, and still in the box from, an across Australia adventure.

Pictures once it is out of the box( Im bloody busy right now) , reassembled and cleaned to saleable condition!!!

:Oi:

Waihou Thumper
21st December 2014, 14:49
Anyone interested.......

I am going to market my 2011 dr650, it is completely farkled for, and still in the box from, an across Australia adventure.

Pictures once it is out of the box( Im bloody busy right now) , reassembled and cleaned to saleable condition!!!

:Oi:

Why is it this happens after you buy sommit! FFS, timing.....surely that is one thing you farmers can get right? surely?....:)

fridayflash
21st December 2014, 15:47
dr owners......looking for some bits n pieces to tidy my brothers k2 model up as it needs to go through for a re-reg. were looking for a rear whale tail with number plate light, a front sprocket cover, a chain guard (not guide) and maybe a pair of indicators..as the rear end has cheap aftermarket ones on it and i understand when being revinned they may be inspected for the correct numbers. so if anyone has any of the above to sell we'd be pleased to hear from you

cheers, eddie.

Waihou Thumper
21st December 2014, 15:53
and maybe a pair of indicators..as the rear end has cheap aftermarket ones on it and i understand when being revinned they may be inspected for the correct numbers
cheers, eddie.

What? Surely not...!

You mean two of right? A left and a right and the fact that they work?
and that the indicators do not have white or red to the rear, but orange?

Shadowjack
22nd December 2014, 16:04
It's taken a while, complex negotiations and stuff, but I have acquired a 2004 DR650SE - less than 15k kms on the clock, one previous responsible owner.
Have just had a 20l tank fitted and am now ready for many, many commuting kms, as well as exploring the gravel around here. Look forward to seeing what this thing can do.

Eddieb
22nd December 2014, 16:15
It's taken a while, complex negotiations and stuff, but I have acquired a 2004 DR650SE - less than 15k kms on the clock, one previous responsible owner.
Have just had a 20l tank fitted and am now ready for many, many commuting kms, as well as exploring the gravel around here. Look forward to seeing what this thing can do.

Well done, where's whitecliffs?

MarkH
22nd December 2014, 16:49
It's taken a while, complex negotiations and stuff, but I have acquired a 2004 DR650SE - less than 15k kms on the clock, one previous responsible owner.
Have just had a 20l tank fitted and am now ready for many, many commuting kms, as well as exploring the gravel around here. Look forward to seeing what this thing can do.

Congrats, hope both you and also myself have heaps of fun on our new bikes!

I've been looking at the gravel rides in my NZ Motorcycle Atlas - in a couple of months I'm thinking of taking a week off and exploring around Coromandel with Port Jackson, Fletcher Bay, Port Charles, Waikawau Bay, Sandy Bay & Stony Bay to the north and some good camping spots around there. There is also Waiau Falls & Castle Rock if I take the 33km dirt road between Coromandel & Kaimarama. Then there is also Tapu to Coroglen. I've been to Coromandel but not to any of those other places, sounds like some good riding on a dual sport.

In the meantime I'm really looking forward to my trip to pick up my DR, flying to Blenheim and then riding home.

Shadowjack
22nd December 2014, 17:25
Well done, where's whitecliffs?
About 60 kms to the west of Christchurch.
Central to quite a bit of high country exploration.

Tazz
22nd December 2014, 18:00
About 60 kms to the west of Christchurch.
Central to quite a bit of high country exploration.

It is an awesome wee spot there.

R650R
30th December 2014, 10:52
No mention of the DR in this article :)

Lot of those things could happen to any make or model and or dealership.... http://www.revzilla.com/common-tread/seven-lessons-learned-from-owning-an-exotic-motorcycle?utm_source=facebook&utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=boosted-posts&utm_content=stream&utm_term=seven-lessons-learned-from-owning-an-exotic-motorcycle

MarkH
30th December 2014, 17:46
I've only got 2 days until I pick up my DR.
I've spent hundreds on it even though it isn't in my possession yet (buying farkles online) and I was thinking about a Scott Oiler.
Anyone put one on their DR?
Easy to install?
Opinions?

DR650gary
30th December 2014, 18:55
I've only got 2 days until I pick up my DR.
Scott Oiler.
Anyone put one on their DR?
Easy to install?
Opinions?

Yes and Yes.

bart
30th December 2014, 19:25
No mention of the DR in this article :)

Lot of those things could happen to any make or model and or dealership.... http://www.revzilla.com/common-tread/seven-lessons-learned-from-owning-an-exotic-motorcycle?utm_source=facebook&utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=boosted-posts&utm_content=stream&utm_term=seven-lessons-learned-from-owning-an-exotic-motorcycle
Nice article. Poor bugger.

It makes me feel better about the fact I can’t afford an exotic bike. I’ll just keep riding the wheels off the trusty Dog Rooter.

Tigerpig
31st December 2014, 07:54
40 years and 30ish bikes later, i am rationalising my garage of bikes as part of the retirement plan. Finally sold one of my beloved DRs and now have some choice bits on TM such as a TM40 pumper carb, and a Ricor Racing rear shock. However, in so doing I stirred up some emotions about the DR that i wanted to share here as you guys may understand. Having been through three DRs now, the DR is still my bike of choice as the best all-rounder for a guy my age (no boy racer left in me) it still rates as my favourite all round ride. I am keeping one DR as part of my retirement plan. To share some of my preferences and I accept that these are my preferences and may not suit everyone. Some of the mods that I have found essential:

- wider seat. Sargent standard seat best I have ever had.
- IMS tank 18.5l. There are several good ones around, I just like the rounded IMS shape.
- screen. Screensforbikes in Oz my favourite.
- FMF pipe and big bore header. Seems to tame the low end.
- Mikuni TM 40 pumper carb.
- suspension. Stiffer springs and Intiminators in front and stiffer better damped shock.
- vapor speedo. Includes a tach, temp and trip.

Something about the DR650's relaxed attitude just grabs me. Can't put words around it, it's just a feeling. I have done the Dusty Butt several times including all the challenge sections, so the DR is more than capable, it is just the way it does it that I find unique. Anyway, there's some thoughts from a sentimental old feller. Long live the mighty DR!

R650R
31st December 2014, 12:01
Something about the DR650's relaxed attitude just grabs me. Can't put words around it, it's just a feeling. I have done the Dusty Butt several times including all the challenge sections, so the DR is more than capable, it is just the way it does it that I find unique. Anyway, there's some thoughts from a sentimental old feller. Long live the mighty DR!

Have you ever noticed much difference in engine temps???

I quite like not knowing on the DR, less to worry about :)

Waipukbiker
31st December 2014, 14:42
I fitted a vapor speedo on mine over a year ago. Didn't connect the temp sensor, not even remotely interested in what temp the engine is.

Mo NZ
31st December 2014, 16:36
While I have not quite reached the milestone of the Tigerpig

I have to agree with his comments.

You nailed it Sir.

MarkH
31st December 2014, 19:19
I think for adventure biking type activities I'll need some luggage capacity.
I've ordered this rear rack:
http://www.moto-racks.com/publishImages/DR650-buy-page~~element67.JPG

I'll probably order the side racks and some saddle bags too.

Then there is the Vapor dash & Scottoiler.

I'll have to ask the previous owner about the FCR carb he has fitted, reading up on them it seems that there are a bunch of different ones.
I'm hopping that it is the FCR 39 - apparently (backed up by dyno testing) that is the best carb to have on a DR650.
But if the carb is working well I'm not going to change it at this stage.

Picking up the bike tomorrow, travelling by car to Auckland, plane to Blenheim, bike to Picton, Ferry to Wellington, Bike to Palmerston North, Sleeping overnight, Bike to Morrinsville.
I'll be getting in a good 700km of riding over the next 2 days - sweet!

pete376403
31st December 2014, 19:29
Bring wet weather gear . pissing down in Wgtn at the mo

MarkH
31st December 2014, 19:43
Bring wet weather gear . pissing down in Wgtn at the mo

Got wet weather gear but met service shows clearing tomorrow - fingers crossed!

R650R
31st December 2014, 20:39
I've only got 2 days until I pick up my DR.
I've spent hundreds on it even though it isn't in my possession yet (buying farkles online) and I was thinking about a Scott Oiler.
Anyone put one on their DR?
Easy to install?
Opinions?

Yes and Yes... but might as well just run the chain dry I reckon. Those big single pulses wear the chain and sprockets just as fast as the tyres.
Got 15,000km on my first set of chain n sprockets, but my bikes always working for it in fun mode, no easy commuting km/s etc....
The scotty did its job though and that's to keep the orings from drying out which keeps the original grease inside the chain. But it would be interesting to run chain with no lube and see difference.... any donor bikes out there :)

Tigerpig
1st January 2015, 19:46
Have you ever noticed much difference in engine temps???

I quite like not knowing on the DR, less to worry about :)

Never saw any alarming temps even in tight stuff on a hot day. Temp is a non issue for a dr IMHO

R650R
1st January 2015, 20:52
Never saw any alarming temps even in tight stuff on a hot day. Temp is a non issue for a dr IMHO

Thought as much. Unlike the GSXR where town traffic sees it skyrocket and the gearbox gets yucky....
If anything I think maybe tape up the DR oil cooler on cold days like with RGV250's. Been a few winter rides where I thought the engine would be plenty warm but still condensation in oil window.

MarkH
3rd January 2015, 09:03
I picked up my new baby and brought her home!

I took the Port Underwood road from Blenheim to Picton and stopped a couple of times:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ER0s8DSSP2w/VKb9yPuwD6I/AAAAAAAAEww/ZsYig4xj-WA/s1152/DR650_1.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-05EE9Ah3DVg/VKb92oOPZEI/AAAAAAAAEw4/o25QE1usqRY/s1152/DR650_2.jpg

Damn, that's all the pics I took of the bike, didn't get any on the North Island, I knew I'd be having so much fun riding that I'd forget to take photos!
It went great on the Gentle Annie, guy following on a CBR1100 chatted a little with me when I stopped at the end - he was amazed at how quick I was going. he said he had an XR650 but it didn't go nearly as quick on the road as my DR. I enjoyed that ride so much that I turned around and rode the other way - I must have ridden a bit hard because I almost used all my fuel (took over 18l to refill) when I got back to Taihape.

It turns out that the previous owner had the 40mm pumper carb fitted - seems to perform very well, pulls great out of corners.
He had also ordered a Vapor dash, or at least thought he did but it was actually the add on bit with the lights. I've ordered the Vapor dash since it will allow me to use this add-on bracket & put the neutral, turn & high beam lights in a better place.
I've also ordered a Scottoiler and a grunge brush, it must be a good idea to look after the chain.

The rear tyre doesn't have much left on it really, I'll have to see what is available.
Maybe a Mitas E07? That would match the front tyre.
Or a Shinko 244 maybe?
Or a Heidenau K60?

NordieBoy
11th January 2015, 17:20
Can't go wrong with an E07 rear.

MarkH
25th January 2015, 16:30
Got the Vapor dash working well, got the Scottoiler running too.
Replaced the rear worn down Trail Wing with a nice new Shinko E700.

Also:
I have an action cam that I bought for US$74 with worldwide free shipping - total landed cost was ~NZ$99.
It is basic but takes 1080p 30fps and has waterproof housing and a bunch of mounts.
I tried it out today:
http://youtu.be/JHlnQ0EqDyc
http://youtu.be/rO9jUBciFyo
Not entirely the best mounting spot, I'm thinking of getting a Ram mount to attach to the top of the brake reservoir. The Ram mount would allow a bit more flexibility for positioning and direction it points.
But the footage didn't come out too bad and for under a hundred bucks it seems pretty reasonable.
I'll upload another 3 minute clip from a gravel road, it'll take a little while though (400mb).

Night Falcon
25th January 2015, 17:00
Camera takes pretty good videos Mark and the sound was great as well. Couldn't help remembering my last ride was a bit like that through country back roads on a great day......:facepalm:

MarkH
25th January 2015, 18:01
I'll upload another 3 minute clip from a gravel road

Here it is: http://youtu.be/-RcN3XaB5RE
Just fucking around today and went for a ride to check the calibration on the Vapor and to test the camera, such a nice day for a wee ride.

The DR is getting really close to what I want, just need my rear & side racks for enough luggage to make this a decent adventure bike.
I've gone with moto-racks.com and ordered the large rear rack and the side racks.
I have a huge waterproof bag I can strap to the back but I'll have to decide on and buy some good saddle bags.

Waihou Thumper
26th January 2015, 03:38
Here it is: http://youtu.be/-RcN3XaB5RE


You went all the way over to the Thompson track but never took it up there? :)
Just got myself a DR 650 with all of the trimmings...luggage included. Wolfman racks and bags.
The only reason I got it was because it has literally everything done and is included in the price.
Get it Waitangi weekend.

MarkH
26th January 2015, 04:10
You went all the way over to the Thompson track but never took it up there? :)


Track closed, locked gate.
Went to check it out as the local council's site is shit and tells me bugger all.

Waihou Thumper
26th January 2015, 04:40
Track closed, locked gate.
Went to check it out as the local council's site is shit and tells me bugger all.

Wouldn't mind betting because of the logging in the area. The landscape is changing by the day there in the Kaimai ranges.

Eddieb
26th January 2015, 12:42
It's closed due to slips over winter. Updates here

http://www.adventureridingnz.co.nz/gps-tracks-rides/north-island-tracks/thompsons-track/

MarkH
26th January 2015, 14:19
It's closed due to slips over winter. Updates here

http://www.adventureridingnz.co.nz/gps-tracks-rides/north-island-tracks/thompsons-track/

I saw that page:

Matamata Piako District Council has announced that Thompsons Track will be closed at least over Winter 2014 due to weather damage.

http://www.mpdc.govt.nz/index.php/news-a-events/news/2404-thompsons-track-closure

Thompsons Track closure

Last Updated: Monday, 19 May 2014 09:34

That link gives 404 article not found, not only is Winter 2014 gone but so is Spring 2014 and we are now halfway through Summer.
I'm not sure I'd agree that updates are there, maybe I should post an update on that thread?
- OK, done! Now updates ARE there!

Tazz
26th January 2015, 14:26
I saw that page:


That link gives 404 article not found, not only is Winter 2014 gone but so is Spring 2014 and we are now halfway through Summer.
I'm not sure I'd agree that updates are there, maybe I should post an update on that thread?
- OK, done! Now updates ARE there!

Check offroadexpress.co.nz. There are usually updates on there from the NZFWDA or some other similarly acronymed association dude called Peter.

dino3310
28th January 2015, 16:39
read this page theres some info and contacts in there, could be worth hooking up with the 4x4 lads to help get it cleared
http://www.offroadexpress.kiwi/Forums/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=39107&p=439207&hilit=thompsons#p439207

Waihou Thumper
29th January 2015, 18:13
Is the extra few litres worth it guys?
Acerbis has the 25 litre tank available, the price is very competitive from fc-moto.
Looks like you only have to reposition your indicators if you haven't already....
I worked it out and took the order all the way to the last click of the mouse....
Less than $480....approx :)

MarkH
29th January 2015, 18:43
Is the extra few litres worth it guys?


So far I'm not seeing a reason to go bigger than my 20l tank.
But if I had the 13l stock tank I'd be looking at the options.

RogIrwin
29th January 2015, 19:21
So far I'm not seeing a reason to go bigger than my 20l tank.
But if I had the 13l stock tank I'd be looking at the options.

I got mine from Just Gas Tanks: http://justgastanks.com/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=297

Very happy with it and have a range of a bit over 300km.

------------------------------------------------------
1 x Suzuki DR650SE IMS Gas Tank (115518) = $247.99 USD
Color Black +
------------------------------------------------------
Discount Coupons:advrider: -$12.40
Flat Rate Shipping to International Destinations, including Puerto Rico (Best Way): $75.00
Sub-Total: $247.99
Total: $310.59

Waihou Thumper
29th January 2015, 19:22
So far I'm not seeing a reason to go bigger than my 20l tank.
But if I had the 13l stock tank I'd be looking at the options.

Weighing it up myself...
But....
why?
5-6 litres is a good distance to extend should you require it...
Maybe I ma greedy :) Spoilt by the previous tankers I had.

Waihou Thumper
29th January 2015, 19:23
I got mine from Just Gas Tanks: http://justgastanks.com/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=297

Very happy with it and have a range of a bit over 300km.


Talking about 25 litres here......:) so, that means over maybe 450 Km range...at least?

RogIrwin
29th January 2015, 19:48
Talking about 25 litres here......:) so, that means over maybe 450 Km range...at least?

Yeah, maybe if you are lucky... and aren't too hard on the throttle.

But do you need that much fuel? Petrol stations aren't that far apart in NZ normally.

Shadowjack
29th January 2015, 20:51
Yeah, maybe if you are lucky... and aren't too hard on the throttle.

But do you need that much fuel? Petrol stations aren't that far apart in NZ normally.

Quite right...in a straight line, but as soon as you start asking " Ï wonder where that track goes", you can very easily wind up 20 kms the wrong side of your tank capacity.
It's the reason a 20L Acerbis was my first purchase.
Personally, 20L is good; 25L would have been bettererer.

bart
30th January 2015, 08:34
The bigger the tank, the more weight you're carrying up high...but then you don't have to always fill it.

I have the IMS 18 litre job. I have strapped an extra 5 litres on the back on rare occasions, but usually find the 300km range plenty.

Night Falcon
30th January 2015, 10:58
The bigger the tank, the more weight you're carrying up high...but then you don't have to always fill it.

I have the IMS 18 litre job. I have strapped an extra 5 litres on the back on rare occasions, but usually find the 300km range plenty.

yup, 300k range is ideal for NZ I reckon. The 690 had about 450K range with the Safari tank which meant you were mostly carrying extra weight for nothing.

RogIrwin
30th January 2015, 22:24
The bigger the tank, the more weight you're carrying up high...but then you don't have to always fill it.

I have the IMS 18 litre job. I have strapped an extra 5 litres on the back on rare occasions, but usually find the 300km range plenty.

Totally agree. Also two other reasons.

I prefer the riding position with the IMS tank. I had a ride on a DR with an Acerbis 20l tank and it felt like my knees were too far apart. Maybe just what I'm used to...

When riding with a group of people it's usually someone else that has the smallest range. That restricts the route, not me :-)

Brainflex
4th February 2015, 18:44
Hi, just bought a 2006 DR650, stock except for a sargent seat. I am gonna slowly mod it so what are the recommended mods and best order to do them? thanks

RogIrwin
4th February 2015, 19:47
Hi, just bought a 2006 DR650, stock except for a sargent seat. I am gonna slowly mod it so what are the recommended mods and best order to do them? thanks

Depends what you want and where you ride. Lowering the gearing makes the biggest difference for off road use. I run 14/43 or 15/46. It's a little low for road use but can sit on a 100km OK.

You may also want to consider a bigger tank or boosting the power... or one of the other 1000 common mods.

fridayflash
4th February 2015, 20:39
Hi, just bought a 2006 DR650, stock except for a sargent seat. I am gonna slowly mod it so what are the recommended mods and best order to do them? thanks

first thing to do is remove the airbox snorkel and raise the needle one clip (drop your clip one space) that made a difference to mine right away,
14 tooth on the front helps too, a freer flowing muffler is good, or gut you original one and fit a larger exit pipe up its arse, still want it to reach back into the muffler by at least three inch, even four inch would be good, and perforate it..cuts down on the 'popping'

bart
5th February 2015, 02:42
Hi, just bought a 2006 DR650, stock except for a sargent seat. I am gonna slowly mod it so what are the recommended mods and best order to do them? thanks

The first mod I'd do is cut and solder the wires to the crappy cutoff switches on the side stand and clutch lever. It's amazing how a stupid little switch can leave you stranded.

A bash plate would be next if you're thinking of going even remotely offroad. It doesn't take much of a rock to put holes where they're not meant to be.

Then look at power, range, and comfort. The options are almost endless.

Brainflex
6th February 2015, 10:43
Thanks for the advice. I will be commuting for a while to get use to it (quite a stepup from the mighty CT110!) then gradually more dual sport use. So range n protection are first with power last. Maybe lose the rear muffler for weight n sound.

R650R
7th February 2015, 05:02
Your lucky starting out with good seat.

I did the DG 'O' exhaust on mine plus remove snorkel and took the sad standard bed mattress foam air filter out and replaced with Twin Air brand filter. Didn't even touch the carb settings.
I wouldn't stress too much about the bash plate too early, although mine has probably saved me couple times its only because I was doing dumb stuff on beaches near rocks.

Mortgage your house and start shopping here: http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html

ducatijim
7th February 2015, 15:39
here she is, pikkies real soon;

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/dual-purpose/auction-844347817.htm

Brainflex
7th February 2015, 18:17
Bash plate ordered. Acerbis tank next. What are the options for suspension?

NordieBoy
8th February 2015, 07:19
MotoCD and Ricor are the two that come to mind for front emulators and replacement rear shock.

ducatijim
8th February 2015, 08:02
Ive got a pair of hardly used Ricor emulators that I will sell if youre interested ?

Waipukbiker
8th February 2015, 08:11
Ive got a pair of hardly used Ricor emulators that I will sell if youre interested ?

Are they 43mm?

NordieBoy
8th February 2015, 10:08
Are they 43mm?
More important is if they fit inside the DR's forks.
As I found when getting some Intiminators for the TT350, not all 41mm forks have the same inside diameter. KLR ones wouldn't fit, but Triumph Scrambler ones did.

I haven't got around to re-springing and Intiminatoring the forks currently on the DR yet.

ducatijim
8th February 2015, 11:28
Out of my DR650.

ducatijim
8th February 2015, 11:29
This is for sale...2011 & 30K km, 1 owner.

bart
8th February 2015, 20:00
I thought I'd throw up a few pics of my bash plate. Bike has done 34k, factory height, but I probably squash the suspension a wee bit. Bash plate is basically a sheet of aluminium.


http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/af29/bart-nz/misc/IMG_2223.jpg

http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/af29/bart-nz/misc/IMG_2235.jpg

http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/af29/bart-nz/misc/IMG_2237.jpg

http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/af29/bart-nz/misc/IMG_2238.jpg

I probably go places a DR650 shouldn't, but without this little sheet of aluminium, I doubt I'd get far at all. :laugh:

Woodman
8th February 2015, 20:06
I thought I'd throw up a few pics of my bash plate. Bike has done 34k, factory height, but I probably squash the suspension a wee bit. Bash plate is basically a sheet of aluminium.




I probably go places a DR650 shouldn't, but without this little sheet of aluminium, I doubt I'd get far at all. :laugh:


You need to try harder.:innocent:


http://i709.photobucket.com/albums/ww97/innathyzit/DSC00262.jpg

bart
8th February 2015, 20:20
You need to try harder.:innocent:

Nice one Woodman. You win. :not:

Phreaky Phil
15th February 2015, 08:05
Hi Guys. I have a couple a brand new clutch cable and brand new speedo cables for sale. My DR650 has been sold so they are surplus to requirements

SOLD

nzexc
17th February 2015, 20:56
Well gone and done it now.

Got myself one of them new DR650 things to try out this adventure riding gig.

Will it workout? Have i made the right move? Will my KTM friends still talk to me? Will my KTM now refuse to come out of the shed and play?

So many unanswered questions, time will tell

bart
18th February 2015, 06:39
Well gone and done it now.

Got myself one of them new DR650 things to try out this adventure riding gig.

Will it workout? Have i made the right move? Will my KTM friends still talk to me? Will my KTM now refuse to come out of the shed and play?

So many unanswered questions, time will tell

I often wonder what I'm doing on a DR, but then just the other day I was ripping down the road doing 120kmh, didn't even button off when the seal turned to gravel. Once I got to a rocky river bed leading into the ranges, I started rock hopping my way up stream, well into the bush.

There aren't many bikes out there that handle such varied terrain as well as the DR. Good road manners, and reasonably capable off road.

You'll soon change your name to nzdr...

R650R
19th February 2015, 07:34
Yep the go the mighty DR650 :)

Well its taken four different off's but my bars are now bent :( Of course with the adrenaline at the time and being sidewqays on the gravel all the way home I didn't notice till the next time I left home on tarmac to go to the club.

So decisions.... what to replace with, go with same size or slightly thicker bars??? what extra mounting hoodakis needed for aftermarket bars???

Oscar
19th February 2015, 08:18
Yep the go the mighty DR650 :)

Well its taken four different off's but my bars are now bent :( Of course with the adrenaline at the time and being sidewqays on the gravel all the way home I didn't notice till the next time I left home on tarmac to go to the club.

So decisions.... what to replace with, go with same size or slightly thicker bars??? what extra mounting hoodakis needed for aftermarket bars???

I can't say enough about Renthals.
The fatty renthals on my 950 have had grevious abuse over the last eight years with some highspeed and less than graceful dismounts.

fridayflash
19th February 2015, 11:07
Yep the go the mighty DR650 :)

Well its taken four different off's but my bars are now bent :( Of course with the adrenaline at the time and being sidewqays on the gravel all the way home I didn't notice till the next time I left home on tarmac to go to the club.

So decisions.... what to replace with, go with same size or slightly thicker bars??? what extra mounting hoodakis needed for aftermarket bars???


im in the market for new bars also, am thinking of getting these 'forward or back' risers as i need a bit more height and space on dr650 for standing.
cant quite work out if the come in standard size and/or fatbar i guess ill wait n see when they arrive as to which bar i need, ive got a set of protapers fatbar in the gge waiting to serve duty again, other wise its be i high (ish) renthal 22mm

Waipukbiker
19th February 2015, 16:42
In the same position, The bars that were on the AT when I picked it up are no longer straight so will be looking for a replacement at some stage during the rebuild. A question, With the thicker walled bars, Do the normal expanders still work in the ends for things like bark buster guards etc?

Eddieb
19th February 2015, 17:31
In the same position, The bars that were on the AT when I picked it up are no longer straight so will be looking for a replacement at some stage during the rebuild. A question, With the thicker walled bars, Do the normal expanders still work in the ends for things like bark buster guards etc?

Usually they won't fit in the bars, you need ones for thick wall bars. I have seen sets that come with both recently.

Waipukbiker
19th February 2015, 20:07
Thanks for that Eddieb

nzexc
19th February 2015, 20:24
Ok i'm over the shock of my first ride around the block on the lead sled. Being a boots and all in kind of guy booked myself a spot on the Taupo long way around. Invercargill Taupo return and 700km weekend in the middle.

How hard can it be for my first ever adventure ride, right?

Taking all my best friends, me, myself and I.

Anyone else going to join us?

fridayflash
19th February 2015, 20:35
thats a big ride nzexc, i trust your not running the standard dr650 seat foam?

nzexc
19th February 2015, 20:56
got one of those air hawk things. Anyway the Dr feels like a lazyboy compared to the EXC. Lost most of the feeling years ago

ducatijim
20th February 2015, 09:26
got one of those air hawk things. Anyway the Dr feels like a lazyboy compared to the EXC. Lost most of the feeling years ago

Mmmm.....

Some years ago now, I once did a ride from Bluff to Picton on the stock dr seat, 12 hrs it took me.

I have only just been able to reduce the meds and I am enjoying the weekend releases...................................:brick:

RogIrwin
20th February 2015, 09:40
Some years ago now, I once did a ride from Bluff to Picton on the stock dr seat, 12 hrs it took me.

Yeah, I have done about 500km in a day on the stock seat. I think that after about 100km it gets to a point that it doesn't get any worse and you just keep riding.

bart
20th February 2015, 19:46
I never have a problem with the seat, but I wear the padding on the inside of my pants. :laugh:

ducatijim
21st February 2015, 08:04
Some folk are simply bigger arses than others.:yes:

Phreaky Phil
21st February 2015, 17:37
I am in the process of selling off some surplus bits and have a set of 98 DR350 forks, which are the same diameter as the 650 forks so will fit the stock clamps. Unlike the 650 forks the 350 ones are proper cartridge forks. To go with this I have a brand new Warp9 320mm rotor and DR350 wheel, so would be an easy fit.
The forks may need stiffer springs. The end result would be way better adjustable suspension and awesome brakes

Big Dog
21st February 2015, 18:10
Usually they won't fit in the bars, you need ones for thick wall bars. I have seen sets that come with both recently.

Zeta and barkbuster brands you can buy replacement expanders.
Zeta ones can come in universal with sleeves for both, or thin or thick. Universals are cheaper but slop a little more.

Most thin walls take expanders for
17-19mm, most thick walls take expanders for 13-7mm internal diameter. But it pays to check. Some brands are different by up 2mm.




Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.

Big Dog
21st February 2015, 18:14
im in the market for new bars also, am thinking of getting these 'forward or back' risers as i need a bit more height and space on dr650 for standing.
cant quite work out if the come in standard size and/or fatbar i guess ill wait n see when they arrive as to which bar i need, ive got a set of protapers fatbar in the gge waiting to serve duty again, other wise its be i high (ish) renthal 22mm

Risers will be 22.5 to 22.5 unless otherwise started. Really easy to change provided you have enough cable length.
22.5 to fat bars are commonly available for most brands but it is a good idea if you are wanting to run knurled bars to check the risers are not.


Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.

bart
22nd February 2015, 21:27
Some folk are simply bigger arses than others.:yes:

800km this weekend on the stock seat, and other than a big crack, my arse is just fine. :motu:

Night Falcon
23rd February 2015, 07:32
800km this weekend on the stock seat, and other than a big crack, my arse is just fine. :motu:

unnatural is all I can say...on both counts :gob:

ducatijim
23rd February 2015, 07:39
I suppose one would expect a big crack to go hand in hand with a big arse?

bart
23rd February 2015, 09:35
But seriously, I don't find the seat too bad. I tend to stand a lot on gravel which helps. Being a short bugger, the seat to pegs distance is proportionally larger, so probably helps also.

Now, brakes. Who else is having problems with the DR650 front brake. Mine is shit. It has bugger all travel, no feel, and seems like it's going to lock up all the time. I've bled it a number of times. Tried different pads. Recently put new calipre seals in (they were buggered). Worked better for a few hundred km, then back to crap. I'll replace the slide pin next.

When I take it to the shop for a warrent, they say it's fine, but it's not so noticable on sealed roads.

Anyone else have this problem. I recall having similar issues with a DR350 many years ago.

Cheers

Night Falcon
23rd February 2015, 12:05
But seriously, I don't find the seat too bad. I tend to stand a lot on gravel which helps. Being a short bugger, the seat to pegs distance is proportionally larger, so probably helps also.

Now, brakes. Who else is having problems with the DR650 front brake. Mine is shit. It has bugger all travel, no feel, and seems like it's going to lock up all the time. I've bled it a number of times. Tried different pads. Recently put new calipre seals in (they were buggered). Worked better for a few hundred km, then back to crap. I'll replace the slide pin next.

When I take it to the shop for a warrent, they say it's fine, but it's not so noticable on sealed roads.

Anyone else have this problem. I recall having similar issues with a DR350 many years ago.

Cheers

I posted once about how bad my DR's front break was, to utter disbelief. My bike had about 20k's on it, break had lots of fade; stoppies were never going to happen. After new fluid & shoes, countless bleeding I put it down to an expanding hydraulic line. Fixed it by buying a 990.

Waihou Thumper
23rd February 2015, 17:13
I posted once about how bad my DR's front break was, to utter disbelief. My bike had about 20k's on it, break had lots of fade; stoppies were never going to happen. After new fluid & shoes, countless bleeding I put it down to an expanding hydraulic line. Fixed it by buying a 990.

Ha! I cannot imagine him buying one of those infernal Orange monsters.
Bart will just remove the front brake.....
Unwanted ballast anyway aye?

Reminds me of the time....:)
Yep, rode back without a front brake on the LC4 from Hunterville - Te Aroha via the adv route as well. It is overrated really ...:)
Brake, not the route :)

bart
23rd February 2015, 19:40
I posted once about how bad my DR's front break was, to utter disbelief. My bike had about 20k's on it, break had lots of fade; stoppies were never going to happen. After new fluid & shoes, countless bleeding I put it down to an expanding hydraulic line. Fixed it by buying a 990.

No fade here. More like a switch. Brake is on or off.

Orange just isn’t my colour. I guess I could spray bomb it black...

bart
23rd February 2015, 19:48
[I]Ha! I cannot imagine him buying one of those infernal Orange monsters.
Bart will just remove the front brake.....
Unwanted ballast anyway aye?

Yeah, you’re right. I’m constantly in a state of ’out of control’ anyway. Who needs brakes. :whistle:

Big Dog
23rd February 2015, 20:10
Do you by any chance have sintered pads. My 350 brakes became very on off on sintered pads so I went back to plain. Ceramics help but are noisy.


Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.

NordieBoy
24th February 2015, 07:16
Rubber or braided line?

Night Falcon
24th February 2015, 07:27
Ha! I cannot imagine him buying one of those infernal Orange monsters.
Bart will just remove the front brake.....
Unwanted ballast anyway aye?



mine was a black 990 - didn't have any orange on it cept for a couple of KTM stickers


Rubber or braided line?

In my case they were the stock 1998 DR lines, don't recall them being braided?

Oscar
24th February 2015, 07:28
mine was a black 990 - didn't have any orange on it cept for a couple of KTM stickers





My 950 has no orange on it at all (except in the speedo).
I'm thinking of adding some to wind up the haters...

bart
24th February 2015, 14:52
Do you by any chance have sintered pads. My 350 brakes became very on off on sintered pads so I went back to plain. Ceramics help but are noisy.


Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.

I've tried sintered and the standard Suzuki ones. No difference.


Rubber or braided line?

Standard rubber line.

I pulled the slide pin thing out and it's got a couple of grooves from the pads. I suspect this may be the problem. I'll replace it before the next ride.

bart
24th February 2015, 16:01
Not the slide pin. I turned it around half a turn so the divots weren't where the pads are and it made no difference.

I measured the lever movement. Lever fully out is 82mm from the grip. Pulled in as far as I can it's 40mm, so the lever only uses half the available travel. The reality is that I only have about 20mm, or quarter of the lever travel, before it feels like the front will lock up.

I guess the next step is rebuild the master cylinder.

Night Falcon
24th February 2015, 16:18
Not the slide pin. I turned it around half a turn so the divots weren't where the pads are and it made no difference.

I measured the lever movement. Lever fully out is 82mm from the grip. Pulled in as far as I can it's 40mm, so the lever only uses half the available travel. The reality is that I only have about 20mm, or quarter of the lever travel, before it feels like the front will lock up.

I guess the next step is rebuild the master cylinder.

what sort od nick is the disk in Bart?

speights_bud
24th February 2015, 17:10
Still looking through the dead dr engine box. Some of the bits are at NordieBro's place though…


Anyone know where I can source a PICK-UP PULSAR COIL for the DR650 without paying twice as much for freight as the part of worth. The part is $30-40NZ and the cheapest shipping I can find is $60NZ.


Alright folks, bit of a thread dredge here.

My little bro has a 2014 DR650 showing the symptoms of what appears to be the well known faulty pickup pulsar coil. (he's done 20,000km)

He is going to try get it sorted under warranty tomorrow but I dont like his chances. Which will then mean either buying the whole stator kit or buy second hand or aftermarket. Unfortunately he is in Hamilton and I live in Napier so can't help him out at the minute.

He is testing the plugs individually tonight, & trying a jump start just in case it is the battery. After checking everything else related to carb etc it did run briefly last night, but no spark this morning and it has been cutting out on him intermittently for the last month or so.

Does anyone have a spare pickup he could buy and try? or any other ideas?

Cheers

Paddy

Big Dog
25th February 2015, 01:00
Alright folks, bit of a thread dredge here.

My little bro has a 2014 DR650 showing the symptoms of what appears to be the well known faulty pickup pulsar coil. (he's done 20,000km)

He is going to try get it sorted under warranty tomorrow but I dont like his chances. Which will then mean either buying the whole stator kit or buy second hand or aftermarket. Unfortunately he is in Hamilton and I live in Napier so can't help him out at the minute.

He is testing the plugs individually tonight, & trying a jump start just in case it is the battery. After checking everything else related to carb etc it did run briefly last night, but no spark this morning and it has been cutting out on him intermittently for the last month or so.

Does anyone have a spare pickup he could buy and try? or any other ideas?

Cheers

Paddy

Test the testable first. No one wants to do a stator but a simple set of tests will tell you if it is the stator or regulator rectifier or something else. You tube has some hood content about either.
Regulator test http://youtu.be/dINJqxecb28
Stator test http://youtu.be/5v2LtHlvcqI

Bound to be something on pickup coils.


30 mins on the multimeter will either have you down the pub commiserating the loss or celebrating that it was not them.
From there you can look a is it a charging problem or a sparking problem. At least whatever you find here is likely a cheaper fix than a stator.


If it is the stator, buying OEM from mrcycles.com cost me ~50% less than buying from NZ suppliers. And it got here, sent back the wrong one and a replacement supplied in less time than the part would get here through a Suzuki dealer.


Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.

bart
25th February 2015, 14:50
what sort od nick is the disk in Bart?

The disc is fine. Still plenty of meat on it.

bigdog
25th February 2015, 19:04
Hey guys,

Does anyone know where I can get the service manual and owners manual for the DR650se? I believe the service manual is the same for most DR650 models. Does anyone have a electronic copy?

Waihou Thumper
25th February 2015, 19:18
Hey guys,

Does anyone know where I can get the service manual and owners manual for the DR650se? I believe the service manual is the same for most DR650 models. Does anyone have a electronic copy?

Buy a Clymer...

nzexc
25th February 2015, 19:40
So cranked out the first 500km already. Gave it an oil change added 20mm pre load to the forks and had a play with the fuel injection carby thingamajig. Made a small screen. Think i am ready to attack The Long Way Around.

Anyone else heading that way from the deep south?

Eddieb
27th February 2015, 08:03
Hey guys,

Does anyone know where I can get the service manual and owners manual for the DR650se? I believe the service manual is the same for most DR650 models. Does anyone have a electronic copy?

Yep, and lots more manuals for the DR650 and many other bikes

http://www.adventureridingnz.co.nz/members/downloads/

speights_bud
28th February 2015, 10:13
Test the testable first....

Cheers for the links and info.

Little bro has tested everything and come back with a few faulty parts (stator, pickup etc). He took his findings to the suzuki shop and parts are going to be around $1200. But there is some good news!

It looks like Suzuki will be fixing everything under warranty (bought new Feb 2014). So thats a relief!

Big Dog
28th February 2015, 23:23
Cheers for the links and info.

Little bro has tested everything and come back with a few faulty parts (stator, pickup etc). He took his findings to the suzuki shop and parts are going to be around $1200. But there is some good news!

It looks like Suzuki will be fixing everything under warranty (bought new Feb 2014). So thats a relief!

Good stuff! Love it when companies back their products.


Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.

MarkH
4th March 2015, 15:23
Going to a training day with NGARNZ on Saturday so I thought I'd check to see how easily I could strap a smallish bag on to the back of the bike. I'd tried the same bag on a previous ride but I couldn't get in to sit on the bike satisfactorily, this time it looks and feels so much better with how it straps to the bike and sits there. It is amazing the difference a rear luggage rack makes!

http://www.moto-racks.com/publishImages/DR650-buy-page~~element67.jpg

I'm VERY pleased with this item on my DR!

When I go camping I'll be strapping a much larger bag on to the rack, it should make it easy to take a tent, bedroll & sleeping bag.

R650R
6th March 2015, 18:38
Been scratching my head at all the bar options then realised the measurements I've taken are off a bent set of bars!!!

Really just want something stronger and close to standard setup in 7/8.

Looking here the Bradshaw 983 size option seems closest to standard setup..... http://www.motosport.com/NZ/dirtbike/renthal-handlebars-standard-78?mmy=suzuki;dr650se;2012&mmy_source=pdp

MarkH
12th March 2015, 15:38
This weather is depressing, currently on holiday and my DR is out of commission.
When I turn on the fuel taps I get petrol leaking out from around the fuel bowl, gotta get new o-ring for it.
I would have been having fun riding the gravel roads around Coromandel on Tuesday & Wednesday (camping Tuesday night) if it wasn't for this wee issue.
The weather was looking really good on those days too!

I enquired at the local shop about getting a rebuild kit for my Keihin FCR carb but they haven't got back to me so I've ordered one from Procycle.
I'm currently hoping that it isn't a subtly different model that needs a different o-ring.

My new plan is to fix the carb and mount the side racks (carb parts and side racks are currently on the way) and have the bike good to go for a trip around Coromandel maybe Tuesday & Wednesday, relax and organise stuff at home on Thursday and then head to Taumarunui Friday for the 42nd traverse ride.
On Tuesday 24th I'm back at work and have no more time for riding around apart from weekends.

Big Dog
12th March 2015, 17:11
This weather is depressing, currently on holiday and my DR is out of commission.
When I turn on the fuel taps I get petrol leaking out from around the fuel bowl, gotta get new o-ring for it.
I would have been having fun riding the gravel roads around Coromandel on Tuesday & Wednesday (camping Tuesday night) if it wasn't for this wee issue.
The weather was looking really good on those days too!

I enquired at the local shop about getting a rebuild kit for my Keihin FCR carb but they haven't got back to me so I've ordered one from Procycle.
I'm currently hoping that it isn't a subtly different model that needs a different o-ring.

My new plan is to fix the carb and mount the side racks (carb parts and side racks are currently on the way) and have the bike good to go for a trip around Coromandel maybe Tuesday & Wednesday, relax and organise stuff at home on Thursday and then head to Taumarunui Friday for the 42nd traverse ride.
On Tuesday 24th I'm back at work and have no more time for riding around apart from weekends.

Similar unit on my DR350 does that occasionally. A little deisel stops it, about half a cup in the tank. I am told it is the float not returning fully rather than the O ring.
Apparently has to do with the aromatics combo we use here.
A full clean of the carb a few years ago did stop it for a lot longer but issue returned after about a year. Diesel trick seems to work until the bike is parked up for longer than a week next.

MarkH
12th March 2015, 18:47
Similar unit on my DR350 does that occasionally. A little deisel stops it, about half a cup in the tank. I am told it is the float not returning fully rather than the O ring.
Apparently has to do with the aromatics combo we use here.
A full clean of the carb a few years ago did stop it for a lot longer but issue returned after about a year. Diesel trick seems to work until the bike is parked up for longer than a week next.

Hmmm, interesting idea and could be worth trying if the rebuild kit doesn't fix it.
The rebuild kit gives me "new O-rings for the Top Cover and Float Bowl, a new float valve with clip and new bowl screws".
The float valve looked OK when I pulled it apart and took a look, but I'll replace it with a new one as well as the O-ring for the float bowl, then I'll see what happens when I turn the fuel taps (1 each side of the tank) back on.

Damn thing was fine on the weekend and then Monday morning I go into the garage to see a puddle forming under the DR.
It definitely looks like the fuel is coming out from around the join between the carb body and the float bowl, I guess that the fuel level could be higher than normal if the float is not returning fully or it could be a problem with the O-ring. Either way a new float valve might fix a higher fuel level and a new O-ring should hold the fuel in so I'll keep my fingers crossed and hope the problem is gone after the rebuild kit is used.

Right cunt of a job getting the carb out and even worse getting it back in, not quite an easy slide in partly because it isn't a DR650 carb.
Bike is really responsive though, gotta love the FCR carb when it isn't leaking fuel all over the back of the engine.

MarkH
13th March 2015, 17:23
Since is still leaks fuel I've pulled the carb from the DR again.
Neither the Honda nor Yamaha shops here can get me the O-ring, NZ suppliers show out of stock and it would take 3 weeks to get it from Japan.
Hopefully Monday or Tuesday the FCR rebuild kit will arrive from Procycle.

I removed the existing O-ring to check it, it is quite flat. I'm guessing that the rubber was once round and has flattened over however many years it has been in the carb, now to the point it doesn't stop fuel from getting passed it.
I'm thinking that if the rebuild kit doesn't match my particular carb I'll try a fuel resistant liquid gasket product.

speights_bud
13th March 2015, 20:34
Before trying a liquid gasket (which I would consider a last resort) it might be worth looking at getting a piece of oring cord a suitable diameter and make your own. But before doing so does anyone know about super glue and petrol? I used to use the loctite equivalent.

Mo NZ
13th March 2015, 20:44
http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#

MarkH
14th March 2015, 01:54
http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#

Yep, that's where I've ordered this from:
http://www.procycle.us/images/bikepages/dr650/fcr_repair_kit.jpg

I'm really hoping it matches my FCR carb otherwise I'm gonna have a lot of fun trying to find the right one.

Mo NZ
14th March 2015, 07:28
I can remember carbs that had a paper/cardboard type gasket.
If you couldn't get the right one you cut one from a sheet.
Maybee you could make one.

pete376403
14th March 2015, 08:00
I have seen O ring kits which have lengths of different diameter material which are cut to size and joined to adhesive . Loctite made such a kit at one time. Might work in this case as the seal is not subject any movement or real pressure.

these guys could help http://www.sealhouse.co.nz/oring-cord-xidc100297.html

Waipukbiker
14th March 2015, 12:36
I don't know about the FCR Carb but I used to remove the throttle and choke cables plus the breather hose from the R/H side, loosen the clamps on the intake and output hoses and rotate the carb around in the hoses so the bowl was facing out the side, the carb could be dismantled with out removing it.

MarkH
14th March 2015, 14:31
Carb is now on garage floor beside bike.
Rebuild kit is now showing as being in Auckland, hopefully delivered here Monday morning.
Side racks also in Auckland and also should be here Monday morning.
I've got my fingers crossed hoping it all works out.

MarkH
16th March 2015, 14:01
Side racks still haven't arrived, but the rebuild kit turned up this morning.
Fitted float valve & fuel bowl O-ring (perfect fit :D), put everything back together and turned on fuel taps.
Went for a ride and filled the gas tank (was getting low).
Carb is dry around fuel bowl now, no petrol seeping out. :niceone:
What has 2 thumbs and is now much happier? This guy! (pointing thumbs to myself)
:2thumbsup:woohoo::clap::wings:

I might take a ride up to Port Jackson tomorrow, camp overnight and explore the area.
I'll pop down to Taumarunui on Friday for some great riding this weekend.

Once again my experience shopping locally reminds me of why I order so much stuff from overseas.
NZ suppliers have no stock and it will take 3 weeks waiting to get it from Japan, great when I'm part way into a 2 week holiday and will be busy working in 3 weeks.
Procycle beats that shit hands down, put through an order on Tuesday, stuff arrives the following Monday.

nzexc
17th March 2015, 14:05
Who has the B&B rear rack? Would you buy it again and can you still fit the standard grab handles with it?

Has anyone got a rear rack they want to move on maybe.

Many thanks

R650R
19th March 2015, 18:12
Right cunt of a job getting the carb out and even worse getting it back in, not quite an easy slide in partly because it isn't a DR650 carb.
Bike is really responsive though, gotta love the FCR carb when it isn't leaking fuel all over the back of the engine.

The procycle instructions for the Mikuni tm40 mention removing the rear brake reservoir and loosening the airbox mounts (and remove battery hlder I think???). You only end up with an extra half an inch breathing space but makes the difference.

Back to my own man cave, went with the Renthal 983 bars sourced locally for a great price via BikeWorks Onekawa. Slightly less sweep than standard but like the feel, found the Zeta small adaptors to remount the handgaurds so all good.

MarkH
20th March 2015, 08:50
Bike is running good, no problems with carby anymore.
Coromandel was really nice:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ukSTio5UKAw/VQswJosIhYI/AAAAAAAAEzc/VD4E8du35AI/s1152/Colville1.jpg

I've got the GPS tracks loaded into my cellphone for the Taumarunui trip, looking forward to this weekend.

Waihou Thumper
21st March 2015, 12:56
Hi guys.
Do any of you have a spare securing slot/bracket for the seat to attach to the 30 litre Safari Tank?
I have the tank, a hole but the seat still comes away from the tank even sitting on it. It looks like it needs the original bracket that screws in I think? and I don't have one....
My fuel tank (original has nothing there on the back?)

Cheers...

Waihou Thumper
25th March 2015, 17:18
After a call to Safari, they provided measurements. :)
So, it cost me a four pack of bourbon and coke for the local engineers in town. :)

bobjac
27th March 2015, 19:35
now you have two

nooles
28th March 2015, 14:53
Gidday guy's and girls, I'm after some real life been there done it info that worked for you and your bike.

I'm crossing Aussie from Perth to Byron Bay (7500 ks) in 14 days across the centre, watch the Finke race etc and cross the Simpson. From there im going to take a couple of months and ride around the outside.

Bike is DR650 all setup ready to go but is running a 525 chain and sprockets, I've only ever run 520 on my DR750 and have read that people change 650's to 520 to give them better access to different size sprockets and to run 750 sprockets on the front as they have a bigger shoulder and 3 bolt quick change plate on them.
Who has ridden in Aussies sand and what sprockets did you use on your 650, then on the long stretches what ratio did you chuck on. Also chain care, did you wax or lube or go in dry!!!
Also rivited or chain link
Any info appreciated

ducatijim
29th March 2015, 10:41
Gidday guy's and girls, I'm after some real life been there done it info that worked for you and your bike.



Hush..........I can just hear the approaching stampede of experts as the race toward their keybordes now!

Sit back with a coffee and wait to be entertained.

bart
29th March 2015, 11:27
I can't help you, but there'll be plenty of people over here that can...

http://advrider.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=32

R650R
29th March 2015, 12:11
Sit back with a coffee and wait to be entertained.

Sand is sand is all ill say.... :)

MarkH
29th March 2015, 12:42
My side racks hadn't arrived in time for the trip last weekend, once I got home I found a letter asking for me to pay GST (plus their other BS charges).
I rang them last Monday and then emailed the address they gave me with details showing that the amount I paid included the GST, they had taken the the total amount and added shipping costs to get over NZ$400 and decided to charge me GST. Once I gave them the right info they cancelled the charges and released the package.

Now with both the large rear rack and the side racks mounted on the bike I feel like I'm more prepared to load up for camping trips and to explore wherever I like.

The DR took a bit of a hammering on that 42 traverse ride last weekend, but proved itself to be capable.
The 2 biggest limitations I ran into were:
- tyres not having aggressive enough tread
- rider not being skilled and/or experienced enough

The bike itself never held me back.
I was never short of power, handling or anything.

I'm now thinking that I need to get comfortable with pulling off the wheels and changing the tyres whenever needed. I'm wanting to buy some aggressive knobbly tyres but only mount them for true off-road trips, using older tyres or 50/50 tyres for general exploring on sealed & gravel roads. Running good aggressive knobbly tyres would have been great on the 42nd traverse track and on old Whangamomona road, but normal road and gravel riding would have them severely worn down in no time.

I did find after getting home that some bolts were working loose, I guess it pays to periodically go over the bike and check screws & bolts tightening up as needed.
My speedo signal wires (electrical signal for Vapor dash) had managed to get loose and rub against the tyre, quick repair in Taumarunui got it working but I'll do a better repair with solder & heat shrink tubing.
My left rear indicator also failed, I pulled it off and dismantled the thing to find a broken wire, stripped & soldered it and it is working fine again.

Of the 22 bikes on the 42 traverse ride there were several DR650s but not 1 single KLR650, glad I didn't buy a KLR because that bodywork would have got fucked up real bad.
No expensive damage at all on the DR despite several drops, only a couple of things needed straightening, bolts needed tightening and wires needed soldering - nothing to be worried about at all.
With each outing on the DR650 I become more and more convinced that I bought the right bike for what I want.

nooles
29th March 2015, 12:51
Hush..........I can just hear the approaching stampede of experts as the race toward their keybordes now!

Sit back with a coffee and wait to be entertained.

Ok, ducatijim I know you've done it so what did you use or did you run stock gearing?? , the bike is loaded with gear, 35L tank, 10L fuel bladder and 12L of water.

NordieBoy
29th March 2015, 17:05
Gearing depends on what speed you want to be able to run at.
Just make sure you don't labor the engine in the deep sand. Drop it down a cog and keep the revs up.

Dropping a tooth on the front should be enough with the DR's mighty torque.

I'd run 15/46, but we don't want to go there :D

nooles
29th March 2015, 17:33
Gearing depends on what speed you want to be able to run at.
Just make sure you don't labor the engine in the deep sand. Drop it down a cog and keep the revs up.

Dropping a tooth on the front should be enough with the DR's mighty torque.

I'd run 15/46, but we don't want to go there :D

Thanks Nordie, I found your post from were Bart sent me (cheers Bart) from a few years ago. That Ratio appears to be what alot of guy's are running so i'll throw that on her and give her heaps;)

ducatijim
30th March 2015, 11:29
Ok, ducatijim I know you've done it so what did you use or did you run stock gearing?? , the bike is loaded with gear, 35L tank, 10L fuel bladder and 12L of water.

Youre nearly right Nooles, I have done a wee bit of Oz, but not a Simpson crossing. Too old and infirm to ever do now either :-(

I will give you a wee 'snifter' and see how much haranguing I get before I wade in boots n all! ( I would happily talk on fone/get together over a brew , I'm not a total cunt)!

Chain....do convert to 520, more sprocket choices and spares availability 'outback'.

Gearing....I carry 13/14/15 cs( std final drive), held on with a circlip....= 5 min roadside ratio change.( throw away all the crappy gards)

Don't listen to wot wankers say about Opal, dr will run just fine on it.

17" rear can be very difficult to randomly get tyres for outback; all locals use moto/endo bikes on either 18 or 19" rears, so that's wots on every shelf. Plan ahead/carry or convert.

Get in touch if you like, there is little I like better than a wee reminisce.

speights_bud
30th March 2015, 17:25
Ok, ducatijim I know you've done it so what did you use or did you run stock gearing?? , the bike is loaded with gear, 35L tank, 10L fuel bladder and 12L of water.
What fuel bladders do you guys use? The old man bought one in from Aussie for the SV thou. Did skippers pass etc 2 up.

After using it down south for 2 weeks it appears that the neck design and materials are a bit shit and the fuel has made the materials go all grippy so the neck plug requires pliers to remove...

Waihou Thumper
30th March 2015, 17:28
What fuel bladders do you guys use? The old man bought one in from Aussie for the SV thou. Did skippers pass etc 2 up.

After using it down south for 2 weeks it appears that the neck design and materials are a bit shit and the fuel has made the materials go all grippy so the neck plug requires pliers to remove...


I used these....and still do.
They are from Australia.
I have had these for over 5 years, a 5 litre and a 10 litre, no worries mate as they say...:)

http://liquidcontainment.com.au/

speights_bud
30th March 2015, 17:39
He got their 4 litre one :
http://liquidcontainment.com.au/cartpage/viewproduct/18/4-Litre-Touring-Bladder

Looking at the selection I would have gone for the Jerry can style.

nooles
30th March 2015, 18:24
What fuel bladders do you guys use? The old man bought one in from Aussie for the SV thou. Did skippers pass etc 2 up.

After using it down south for 2 weeks it appears that the neck design and materials are a bit shit and the fuel has made the materials go all grippy so the neck plug requires pliers to remove...

We went with the Liquid containment ones like old W Thumper said, its what the APC Rally Store recommend and sell, so we are sticking with tried and proven. Im riding with 2 KTM 690 Rally Raids so I'll be carrying gas for them I guess lol.
550km minimum between gas

Waihou Thumper
30th March 2015, 18:35
We went with the Liuid containment ones like old W Thumper said, its what the APC Rally Store recommend and sell, so we are sticking with tried and proven. Im riding with 2 KTM 690 Rally Raids so I'll be carrying gas for them I guess lol.
550km minimum between gas

Less of the old....:) bloody hell...

bobjac
30th March 2015, 19:29
Less of the old....:) bloody hell...

hi , i have done the simpson twice, both times on a 1986 tt600 and both times east to west [harder than west east] early 2000 no back up , i now have a dr650. about the chain and sprockets i would run a 525 chain on 520 sprockets more clearance less wear , oil chain with engine oil at the end of the day when chain is hot then wipe excess with rag run 15 /44 to dalhousie then fit 14 change back to 15 at birdsville You will be going up the long side of the dunes , stay in the 4wd tracks, they do wobble a bit but its easier than making own track stop at top of every dune [track can vere off] I presume you will be passing thru alice, no problem getting a 17 in tyre which will see you to the east coast take 20lt water and 35 gas from mnt dare . what time of the year are you going , takes 2 days from dalhousie to birdsville not pushing. which way will you be going from alice , via fink can be a challenge and via old andardo is a good ride and will you be going back thru camerons corner .great ride.
if you need any help re planning call me 098178298
cheers bob

NordieBoy
31st March 2015, 08:49
about the chain and sprockets i would run a 525 chain on 520 sprockets more clearance less wear.
I got more wear.

Waihou Thumper
31st March 2015, 18:44
Has everything you could want....
Waipukbiker's old bike, my DR800s coming home so this one might get sold......
If he has the specs and everything he has done, I cannot recall all but will try....
I have just added a 30 litre Safari tank. :)

Aslan
1st April 2015, 12:34
I'm crossing Aussie from Perth to Byron Bay (7500 ks) in 14 days across the centre, watch the Finke race etc and cross the Simpson. From there im going to take a couple of months and ride around the outside.



Hi Nooles - as you know I'm even older than DucatiJim and unlike him I didn't ride my stock DR in sand - choosing to stay on dirt roads as I was riding solo. However I did meet some great guys whilst in South Australia - among them Kipo on ADV - he's doing Finke again this year - top bloke - you could do far worse than link in with the South Australian guys - especially AussieTrev - a keen supporter of Kipo's Finke campaign (and others from other States no doubt) over on ADV

I've just hosted a Swiss round the world rider who spent a year in Aus and met some great people - many of whom are active on ADV - I've mentioned Kipo, Aussie Trev and another is Desert Dog in Port Lincoln on the Eyre Penninsula

have fun - envious

RogIrwin
1st April 2015, 12:52
you could do far worse than link in with the South Australian guys

If you are on Facebook I see that there is a "Simpson Desert Riders" group.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/916992571678598

Waihou Thumper
11th April 2015, 12:33
For a DR650

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=872038238 :2thumbsup


310684310685310686

Bikemad
13th April 2015, 16:53
howdy all......thought i would see what you DR experts think about what my 2012 might be worth.Bought new from Colemans and had first service done there
Grey,In excellent condition,2600kms,NewTKC80s,Big Bars,heated grips,bark busters,bash plate,brake snake,IMS Tank,FMF pipe and Carb kitted.
All original parts to go with it.
So whats it worth fellas.

And Azkle stick ya $5 and bag of chips where the sun don't shine........

ducatijim
13th April 2015, 16:57
howdy all......thought i would see what you DR experts think about what my 2012 might be worth.Bought new from Colemans and had first service done there
Grey,In excellent condition,2600kms,NewTKC80s,Big Bars,heated grips,bark busters,bash plate,brake snake,IMS Tank,FMF pipe and Carb kitted.
All original parts to go with it.
So whats it worth fellas.

And Azkle stick ya $5 and bag of chips where the sun don't shine........

Don't get too excited now, but on a good day you might just see north of 5.5k

RogIrwin
13th April 2015, 18:20
howdy all......thought i would see what you DR experts think about what my 2012 might be worth.

What about a photo?

Bikemad
13th April 2015, 19:04
sort of thought you might know what they look like already:rolleyes:..........but here ya go

310758310759310760

these pics were taken the night i got it home from colemans

rocketman1
13th April 2015, 19:48
Just looking at 2nd hand DR650's on TM, they are maybe 4-5 years old, around $6-7k, then check out the brand new price at $8.9K wow thats incredible.
Only losing a couple of $K's for riding say 30,000 km and 4-5 years. amazing.
Must be the best value for money of many bikes.
Most $20-$25 K bikes would lose say $15k in that time..amazing.

RogIrwin
13th April 2015, 20:32
sort of thought you might know what they look like already:rolleyes:..........but here ya go

That's better... Now I know what I'm looking at.

I would have thought that you could have got over $7k for it with 2600km on the clock. That's nothing. It's like new..

RogIrwin
13th April 2015, 20:39
sort of thought you might know what they look like already:rolleyes:..........but here ya go

Could you evaluate a pair of tits from a description alone? You sort of know what you are looking at but a photo just makes it so much easier...

Bikemad
13th April 2015, 20:42
Could you evaluate a pair of tits from a description alone? You sort of know what you are looking at but a photo just makes it so much easier...

Haha.......more of a legs and arse man myself........but i take your point mate
7k ya think........hmmmm

speights_bud
2nd May 2015, 19:29
So my brother just sent me this photo. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/02/72349dce21216a71e780140b229ec6c1.jpg

Would you expect this to be fixed under the warranty?

He's only had his bike back for a month or so after having all the coils and associated electrics replaced under warranty.

It's not as obvious a manufacturing fault as some of the poxy welds previous models had. But I don't really like his chances? (he hasn't taken it in to find out yet)

What do you think?

bart
2nd May 2015, 20:13
How old's the bike? I'd certainly be pushing the warranty issue if it's under 3 years and low miles.

Big Dog
2nd May 2015, 20:13
Give it a bit of a degrease. You never know could be chain "tar".
I've had a few dafuq moment with the CB. But it's just the strands of lube full of other crap.


Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.

speights_bud
2nd May 2015, 20:20
How old's the bike? I'd certainly be pushing the warranty issue if it's under 3 years and low miles.
Bike was a year old last month (april), 2 year warranty. He bought it new. 20,000ks. Mostly on road as it's his commuter/main transport.

Pretty sure it's definitely a crack. I'll give him shit for being a paper engineer if it's not...


I just had a thought (but would depend on the dealer) that I wouldn't be surprised if they tried to say the weld isn't faulty and 'you broke it.'

speights_bud
2nd May 2015, 20:38
Give it a bit of a degrease. You never know could be chain "tar".
I've had a few dafuq moment with the CB. But it's just the strands of lube full of other crap.


Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.
He's just checked, Def not grease/tar, he can hook his fingernail into it

pete-blen
2nd May 2015, 23:10
I would be looking very hard at the linkage mount on the inside of the arm...
That just might be a tell tail of something happening on the cross brace linkage mount...
a lot of the alloy welds on motor bikes are done with no prep so are little more than surface weld
guess it to time consuming to prep every weld area in a production situration...
wonder you do see more of this type of stuff... they do pretty well really...

NordieBoy
3rd May 2015, 09:55
Has the bike been dropped on its left? Sounds more likely than spacing issues at the swingarm as it'd have more leverage to do some damage. Even better if it was on a stand, without the wheel when it fell.
Either way, they're designed to handle that sort of crap.
Swingarm spacing issues usually show as cracks on the drive side frame member around the swingarm pivot...

ratsalad
3rd May 2015, 14:20
hi all just purchased dr 650 . where in nz can i purchase after market parts ,sargent seat, luggage racks etc or do i just order straight from pro cycles . cheers

R650R
3rd May 2015, 22:02
hi all just purchased dr 650 . where in nz can i purchase after market parts ,sargent seat, luggage racks etc or do i just order straight from pro cycles . cheers

I got my Acerbis tank through Colemans, Freedom Suzuki in Palmy have a few bits too... Procycles are good but suss out the exchange rate and shipping, some stuff may be cheaper to buy here now...

speights_bud
4th May 2015, 19:03
Brother took his bike into the shop today. Looks like another warranty job. That's 2 warranty claims in 3 months on a 1year old bike. Musta come off the production line on a Friday.

This is what he said:

Right took her in. They did a crack test etc. Sent pics of suzuki. It's a warranty job. So once we get sign off from suzuki we order the part in as none are in the country and replace it. I'm riding her still. Just keeping an eye on it. They don't have any working loaners as everyone's wrecked them. Once sign off part will take 10-15 days to get here.

Mustek
19th May 2015, 20:58
Hi folks,

I have recently stripped and repainted my 95 DR650SE.

I have goteverything back together and running well and looking good.

The only thing i'm unsure of if I have the chain rollers in the right place.

It doesn't make much sense but the only configuration I can work out is for the small roller to go above the chain and the large roller to go below the chain. The weird part is that the lower (big) roller doesn't actually roll at the moment.

SO my questions are as follows:

1) Are my rollers in the right places
2) Should my lower roller actually move or is it static
3) Should the chain be over it as in the pics.

Your help would be appreciated. Especially those who have owned or currently own the 95 DR.

312013312014312015312016312017

Motnz
22nd July 2015, 20:33
Hey guys. Thought I'd share this with you. My stock speedo broke the other day and after a few days contemplating replacing it with a Trail Tech or something similar, I found a custom bike online utilizing a bicycle speedo. I brushed it off but thought about it again whilst in a bike shop in town. They're smaller, cheaper, lighter and easier to install compared to a Trail Tech. I'm not really on a budget with my bike but thought of it as a bit of a challenge/something to be a bit different. So...I bought a Knog Nerd bicycle speedo of Trade Me for $45. Here's a few pics of what it is, wireless, small and descrete. I can even take the speedo off the handle bars in a split second if I'm parking anywhere dodgy as it's easily removable.

http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag25/Motnz/ABA5E5D3-3B7E-4178-AF96-8C5AB961B5F3_zpszud1j5gp.jpg (http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/Motnz/media/ABA5E5D3-3B7E-4178-AF96-8C5AB961B5F3_zpszud1j5gp.jpg.html)

I'll be mounting it this week, either mounting the magnet pickup on a spoke or glued into one of the outer brake disk holes. Will report back!

NordieBoy
22nd July 2015, 20:43
Only problems could be...
Lack of backlight for night time.
Electrical interference for the wireless transmitter.

I used a cable speedo with an extension spliced in and some EL-wire wrapped around the speedo for lighting.

Motnz
22nd July 2015, 20:52
Only problems could be...
Lack of backlight for night time.
Electrical interference for the wireless transmitter.

I used a cable speedo with an extension spliced in and some EL-wire wrapped around the speedo for lighting.


It has a backlight (not the best) but I'm not doing too much night riding, especially not on highways or motorways so I can normally judge when I'm at 55-60 around town. Electrical interference would be Interesting, time will tell. If it doesn't work, I'll chuck it on my push bike!

R650R
23rd July 2015, 06:36
Brother took his bike into the shop today. Looks like another warranty job. That's 2 warranty claims in 3 months on a 1year old bike. Musta come off the production line on a Friday.

This is what he said:

Right took her in. They did a crack test etc. Sent pics of suzuki. It's a warranty job. So once we get sign off from suzuki we order the part in as none are in the country and replace it. I'm riding her still. Just keeping an eye on it. They don't have any working loaners as everyone's wrecked them. Once sign off part will take 10-15 days to get here.

Did Suzuki sign off promptly??? both warranty issues I had on other bikes they took their time....

speights_bud
23rd July 2015, 08:56
Yea they were pretty quick to put it right. What took the longest was shipping in the parts from Japan (the usual 3weeks).

I wasn't going to mention the shop, but he's been dealing with Boyds which is where he also bought it new. I have to say that from what I've heard their service has been really good. Though I've never been there myself.

Denniso
22nd September 2015, 19:35
Selling my DR , I think one of you lot need it more than me . It's in the bike trader section .

Scubbo
23rd September 2015, 12:33
nah i'd just buy a new one for an extra 2k... :facepalm:

Denniso
23rd September 2015, 20:47
Or you could make an offer , I've not sold a bike yet for what I wanted , so might as well start high :yes:

MarkH
27th September 2015, 18:49
I took my DR650 for a wee ride today - Morrinsville to Morrinsville via Raglan.
One thing I was wanting to do was try out my Doubletake mirrors and I thought I'd share my thoughts here.
As received they are about a 6/10 - not bad mirrors with really really easy adjustability, but noticeable vibration and really bad at holding the position I set.
As modified they are about a 9/10 (maybe even 9.5/10) - vibration seems less, not too sure why and they stay nicely where I set them.

My mod:
Remove mirror arms from RAM socket arm, put some heat shrink tubing over the ball end of the mirror arms, shrink the heat-shrink, trim any excess heat-shrink that looks to be unneeded for it to work, put that ball end with heat-shrink tubing into the RAM socket arm, position & tighten.
This mod doesn't take anything away from the system, still super easy to adjust or to move out of the way when riding off-road.
The original problem was that unlike the rubber ball you screw into where the stock mirrors used to be, the ball on the mirror arm is a hard plastic which the RAM socket arm doesn't grip onto very well.

Anyway, I really like my Doubletake mirrors now, so much better than the stock ones. With a little heat-shrink tubing these are really good.

R650R
1st October 2015, 20:11
I took my DR650 for a wee ride today - Morrinsville to Morrinsville via Raglan.
One thing I was wanting to do was try out my Doubletake mirrors and I thought I'd share my thoughts here.
As received they are about a 6/10 - not bad mirrors with really really easy adjustability, but noticeable vibration and really bad at holding the position I set.
As modified they are about a 9/10 (maybe even 9.5/10) - vibration seems less, not too sure why and they stay nicely where I set them.

My mod:
Remove mirror arms from RAM socket arm, put some heat shrink tubing over the ball end of the mirror arms, shrink the heat-shrink, trim any excess heat-shrink that looks to be unneeded for it to work, put that ball end with heat-shrink tubing into the RAM socket arm, position & tighten.
This mod doesn't take anything away from the system, still super easy to adjust or to move out of the way when riding off-road.
The original problem was that unlike the rubber ball you screw into where the stock mirrors used to be, the ball on the mirror arm is a hard plastic which the RAM socket arm doesn't grip onto very well.

Anyway, I really like my Doubletake mirrors now, so much better than the stock ones. With a little heat-shrink tubing these are really good.

What was wrong with the stock ones???? Mine are vibe free, have good view and have survived several offs and trimming roadside verges. Unlike the mirrors on a very expensive KTM thingy that were fine until you switched on the engine. Suppose on a KTM you never need look in your mirrors anyway :P

Shadowjack
1st October 2015, 21:10
What was wrong with the stock ones????
I fitted the Procycle extenders to mine, because, well, apart from the KTM thing, I could see nowt but the inside of my elbows.

Transalper
1st October 2015, 21:40
....The original problem was that unlike the rubber ball you screw into where the stock mirrors used to be, the ball on the mirror arm is a hard plastic which the RAM socket arm doesn't grip onto very well.

Anyway, I really like my Doubletake mirrors now, so much better than the stock ones. With a little heat-shrink tubing these are really good.
That's a bloody good idea, I used cycle inner tube with mine but heatshrink would be a lot neater and maybe more effective, I'll get on to that before my next ride.
They have a new shape out now too.... the mirror at Motomox link. (http://www.motomox.co.nz/shop/show_single_product.php?prod=328)
I heard something along the lines of the doubletake people are not allowed to rubberise the mirror ball due to copyrights or what ever it is called for that kind of thing.

MarkH
2nd October 2015, 11:57
What was wrong with the stock ones????


Stock: I'd tighten up the RAM arm until I got worried that any more and it would break, then as I rode the air would push the mirror and I couldn't see behind me.
With heat-shrink: I tightened the RAM arm until snug, rode 180kms - no issues!

The vibration wasn't all that bad, I could have lived with that - I still don't know why it seems to be less with the heat-shrink.
But what is the the point of easy to adjust mirrors if the air can push them around so they aren't correctly adjusted for very long?
I have a box full of assorted heat-shrink, using a little of the correct sized stuff effectively cost me nothing - cheap & effective solution IMO.

MarkH
2nd October 2015, 12:03
I heard something along the lines of the doubletake people are not allowed to rubberise the mirror ball due to copyrights or what ever it is called for that kind of thing.

I don't know anything, but my suspicion is that the one piece zytel arm would be cheap to manufacture, but to rubberise the ball would add cost and that extra cost would put off some buyers. Maybe they should include a piece of heat-shrink tubing and put instructions that if problems getting the mirror to stay where you put it then put the heat-shrink over the ball and shrink it.
They could also just have a brass insert on the end of the mirror arm and you could screw in a RAM ball, but again that would add more cost.
Using some heat-shrink tubing has to be the cheapest solution and IMO a really effective one.

Brainflex
15th October 2015, 12:14
Torpedo 7 have a 320mm disc n adaptor on special at $180. :banana:
I don't know how long for so if you want one, they're there.

NordieBoy
15th October 2015, 19:17
Will they fit on a DR?

Brainflex
16th October 2015, 14:15
Yep, they have em for Drs, just click the drop box n select. Silver for calliper bracket.

NordieBoy
16th October 2015, 17:37
The one I could find says Kawasaki/Suzuki/DRZ. A bracket for a DRZ wouldn't fit a DR650? The DRZ disc is 250mm stock and the DR650 is 290mm stock.

I need a new disc soon, 140,000km of braking is wearing it out :(

Brainflex
16th October 2015, 18:01
Hmm, seems that they have non left. When I first checked yesterday, DR 650 showed in black disc n silver bracket so I assume they have sold out.

Okey Dokey
19th October 2015, 10:53
Hi guys. Mr Okey Dokey's back wheel sprocket hub bearing collapsed yesterday while he was out on a ride. The bike is only a couple years old and he is conscientious about maintenance, etc.

Has anyone else experienced this type of problem with their DR650? Any ideas about cause?

I did try to search the site before asking here, but couldn't find anything. Thanks for any and all advice. Cheers.

pomgolian
19th October 2015, 11:32
Hi its no big deal but a bit of a weak point especially if your going through water crossings like any bearing, comes down to maintenance once you know about it check it when you check the chain by seeing if there is any movement in the sprocket carrier.

If your doing wheel bearings change it as well as its pretty cheap peace of mind, on a long ride carry a spare like you would wheel bearings but use only quality bearings which will last far longer and replace the seal. Not that you should anyways but dont go near it with a water blaster.

Okey Dokey
19th October 2015, 12:07
Thank you for the reply and advice. The bike had just reached 12,000km, and I guess we didn't expect something like this to fail. Also, I think it is a rear sprocket drum not hub; sorry for the confusion. Mechanical terms are not my forte.

MarkH
19th October 2015, 15:39
back wheel sprocket hub bearing collapsed

Now, I'm not entirely sure if this bearing in question is the one I'm thinking of or not but there has been mention in the hugely long DR650 thread on advrider forums about some wheel bearing that quite a few DR riders have replaced with non-OEM ones that have seals on both sides rather than the OEM bearings with a seal only on one side.

Regardless: If the OEM bearing has failed then I would suggest replacing it with a good quality bearing made by someone else that will hopefully last MUCH longer. Why buy the same as the one that failed?

JATZ
19th October 2015, 20:06
I did try to search the site before asking here, but couldn't find anything. Thanks for any and all advice. Cheers.

I generally replace the bearings including the sprocket carrier every 2nd tyre change which is about 17-20k k's for a rear and a bit more for a front. They're only around the $7 mark each so it's not a huge expense.

Bass
20th October 2015, 07:13
Hi guys. Mr Okey Dokey's back wheel sprocket hub bearing collapsed yesterday

Has anyone else experienced this type of problem with their DR650? Any ideas about cause?



Yes, it's a weak point with the DR design, but it's cheap and easy to get at to change.
My personal preference is a 2RS bearing as mentioned above (rubber seals both sides) but I also re-pack the new bearing with any one of the highly water repellent greases that are now available.
I also deliberately overfill the new bearing because it's slow turning, so heating isn't an issue and the extra grease helps to keep the water/crud out.

RMOTO
20th October 2015, 09:05
The bike had just reached 12,000km, and I guess we didn't expect something like this to fail.

Hi ya Okey Dokey, 12,000 is a bit on the low side but not uncommon for adventure riding, bearing life can vary considerably in this environment. Wheel bearings can be treated like a consumable item for adventure riding and the reason why spare bearings in the toolkit are commonplace for adventure riders.

Replacing a bearing mid trip (with a deluxe adventure hammer)
http://www.remotemoto.com/photos/1019/february-2015-gps-logging-trip-49269.jpg

Interesting fact about Suzuki OEM bearings, Suzuki do not manufacture bearings, they simply source and supply bearings produced by quality manufacturers. Depending on availability, oftentimes Suzuki will supply a different brand of bearing packaged up in Suzuki box. The brand is irrelevant as Suzuki will only supply high quality bearings (as with most bike manufacturers).

If you are going aftermarket bearings, this is an industry list that contains some of the high quality bearing manufacturers NSK, SKF, FAG, IKS, NTN, Koyo, Timken, Nachi

Personally I'd steer clear of cheap bearings, especially the market saturated All Balls brand. All Balls are cheap Chinese bearings produced by KML in Hong Kong and are white labelled by many companies including All Balls. Although some riders claim they get a good run from them, many (including myself) have experienced a high failure rate in tough adventure riding conditions. Here is my experience with them: All Balls Bearings Review (http://www.remotemoto.com/articles/all-balls-racing-products-motorbike-bearings/)

This is an article based on some bearing failures and research: Wheel bearings for adventure bikes - Avoiding the pitfalls (http://www.remotemoto.com/articles/wheel-bearings-for-adventure-bikes/)


I also re-pack the new bearing with any one of the highly water repellent greases that are now available.
I also deliberately overfill the new bearing because it's slow turning, so heating isn't an issue and the extra grease helps to keep the water/crud out.

+1 Bass :niceone:

speights_bud
20th October 2015, 09:47
+1 on the All Balls crap.

Don't bother with the primary output shaft replacement collars. I bought a kit for the KTM and they don't even know how to machine them properly.

The collars arrive blackened & rough turned. They should be polished so that the seal actually 'seals' against the sleeve. Funnily enough...

Deleted the photos but took a screenshot of the messenger pics I sent at the time.


Top pic is of my old one (left) next to the new (right). I decided to polish the old one (bottom left) as the new one was probably shit material as well.
316703

Okey Dokey
20th October 2015, 13:04
Guys, this is all so hugely helpful. I will direct Mr OD here for a read tonight. I really appreciate you taking the time to help us out.

And love the photo!

Tazz
20th October 2015, 14:52
Saeco is a really good company to deal with/source bearings and seals too, just fyi.

Okey Dokey
20th October 2015, 18:20
Guys, this is all so hugely helpful. I will direct Mr OD here for a read tonight. I really appreciate you taking the time to help us out.

And love the photo!

Hi All, Thanks for your help, as Rose said the bike's not very old, so surprised me when the bearing went. Lucky the dealer was on the ride at the time, also on a DR650, so he was surprised as well. Anyway as it turns out one of his mechanics also had the same problem at about the same Kms, it appears to be a bit random when the bearing go but water does seem to have an influence. I spend a far bit of time going through river crossings. sometimes when the bike is hot, others not so, so that was probably my demise. The bearings that are in the bike are NTK's and the wheels bearings are fine, but I will replace them at the same time. There was not much sign of rust or dirtiness in the bearing that failed so I would say that contamination wasn't such an issue and maybe it's alignment considering the sprocket is constantly trying to pull the hub around. Anyway the dealer is trying to get any info from Suk NZ that he can and in the meantime I'll change the bearing and carry a spare and I might also carry a hammer and bearing punch as I'm not sure Remote-Moto's hammer was that great! Thanks.

bart
20th October 2015, 19:24
My bearings seem to go at between 10 and 15k. I just thought it was normal.:confused:

Muzz67
20th October 2015, 19:38
on older XR500/600's, there is enough meat in the hub to have the bearing seat deepened to allow an extra bearing on the chain side,
which obviously takes the majority of the strain. Plenty of grease between the pair, and they lasted almost for-ever.

pomgolian
20th October 2015, 19:49
Normal road use it would probably last for ages but you throw in submerging it in water crossings, sand and dusty from gravel roads and it seems to be the norm 10-15k I'm on my third at 40k

MarkH
21st October 2015, 14:26
A quick look at Farrell Bearings shows the good FAG bearings cost ~$38 for 2 x 20X47X14mm and 1 x 25X52X15mm bearings.
I don't think I'll be getting upset at having to replace those every now & then.

Okey Dokey
31st October 2015, 11:58
Just to add a bit extra, I got a SKF 6205 for $16, so cheap as. Any way I also found that SKF make a Angular contact ball bearing (7205) that can take a bit of side loading, I thought this might solve the problem but at $98 I figure I can use quite a few 6205's before I can justify the cost.

pete-blen
31st October 2015, 16:20
this cure maybe possable for the DR650...
works well on the XT660s.. makes the cush drive rubbers last
as well as the bearing....
replace the carryer bearing with a double row ball race

http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=21410&highlight=sprocket+carryer





..

XF650
9th November 2015, 17:20
http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=978727408

Club Matrix
16th November 2015, 18:25
Going to have to do some serious commuting on my DR650, and wondering if there are any easy 17" road wheels/tyres options out there to provide me a second set of wheels. Buying spare part hubs and lacing rims is an option for lots of $'s - wondering if anyone knows if wheels from another bike can be easily made to fit? Still want to have the knobbies for the off-road weekends.

R650R
17th November 2015, 11:06
Going to have to do some serious commuting on my DR650, and wondering if there are any easy 17" road wheels/tyres options out there to provide me a second set of wheels. Buying spare part hubs and lacing rims is an option for lots of $'s - wondering if anyone knows if wheels from another bike can be easily made to fit? Still want to have the knobbies for the off-road weekends.

You can lace a rim onto the standard hubs as cheaper option.
Any reason why think will be better???
I'd rather stick with the standard 21, I find front end grip plenty fine even with 80/20 tyrees...

Club Matrix
17th November 2015, 15:48
You can lace a rim onto the standard hubs as cheaper option.
Any reason why think will be better???
I'd rather stick with the standard 21, I find front end grip plenty fine even with 80/20 tyrees...

Was just looking for longer life and better grip of road tyres for inter-city commuting, and knobbies for the weekend adventuring.
Easier to change wheels than change tyres. wanted to have 2 sets of wheels and tyres to choose from. If I was going to have road tyres anyway on one set, thought there would be better selection going for a more road standard rim/section. Happy to lace a rim onto a standard hub - but was hoping there would be something around you could buy second hand and just throw on with a few spacer changes ...

Tazz
18th November 2015, 10:01
Was just looking for longer life and better grip of road tyres for inter-city commuting, and knobbies for the weekend adventuring.
Easier to change wheels than change tyres. wanted to have 2 sets of wheels and tyres to choose from. If I was going to have road tyres anyway on one set, thought there would be better selection going for a more road standard rim/section. Happy to lace a rim onto a standard hub - but was hoping there would be something around you could buy second hand and just throw on with a few spacer changes ...

Do you have a mechanical or digital speedo? When changing to the smaller diameter front you'll have to mess around getting that correct if you want to keep the bikes KM's accurate.

Although the same diameter, I have two sets of rims for one of my bikes and I only ever swap the rear over, if ever at all. I don't commute on it though. Fronts are much more forgiving wear wise.

speights_bud
18th November 2015, 12:35
Also you might have to consider brake disc /calliper location /sizes

DR650gary
24th November 2015, 11:35
Hi Guys

Long time no post but I passed the Dr onto one of my sons. He may not thank me.

Anyone got a spare headlight lens for an 03 ish headlight they would part with for a price?

The repaired/cracked one no longer gets passed for the wof.

Thanks in anticipation.

Exckiwi
24th November 2015, 15:54
Does anyone know if an 07 GSXR muffler can be adapted easily to the DR. I've got a mate who will give me one off his GSXR, but I notice that it seems to be the earlier models that are talked about.

First post on this forum so I hope that I've done this the right way.

pete376403
24th November 2015, 19:30
I've got a GSXR can on my KLR - it was previously removed from a DR650. the one I've got is the 18G1, I believe its the second most desirable (the first one was even lighter). It was shortened about 75mm before I got it, standard it would stick too far back. Whatever you get will require a custom mid-pipe. Have a look at http://mxrob.com/mxrob_010.htm

NordieBoy
24th November 2015, 19:51
Hi Guys

Long time no post but I passed the Dr onto one of my sons. He may not thank me.

Anyone got a spare headlight lens for an 03 ish headlight they would part with for a price?

The repaired/cracked one no longer gets passed for the wof.

Thanks in anticipation.
Yep, my spare is complete. Just not sure what it's worth.

DR650gary
25th November 2015, 08:46
Yep, my spare is complete. Just not sure what it's worth.

Me neither but new in NZ is expensive and the reasonably priced US ones don't work here I imagine.

PM me a price with post to Whakatane.

Cheers

DR650gary
5th December 2015, 11:46
Have a look at these.

Baldyman
17th December 2015, 17:42
With everyone fitting aftermarket fuel tanks, does anyone have a stock DR650 tank, in good condition, they are willing to sell? Cheapish? Either white, grey or black.

Thanks.

R650R
17th December 2015, 19:45
What do you call cheap. I have an absolutely mint stock white tank, 2012. Alsos tock carby too available and exhaust.

Baldyman
17th December 2015, 21:15
What do you call cheap.

$50.00 ....?

Bass
19th December 2015, 05:56
What do you call cheap. I have an absolutely mint stock white tank, 2012. Alsos tock carby too available and exhaust.

What are you asking for the carby?

chasio
24th December 2015, 14:58
I just acquired a '99 with a stock tank and a Mikuni pumper carb on it. Couple of questions, please:

Anyone know what tank the attached photo is of (apparently it's 20L) and are they decent? Anything to check comes with it? (And can they be painted? It's a bit yellow).

And how much lift should opening up the throttle give to the push rod to the pump? It seems to be moving very little right now. Just after a rough guide before I try it with fuel.

Cheers for any advice.

PS Anyone selling a rack I could bolt a Givi plate onto?

NordieBoy
26th December 2015, 08:44
18.5L IMS tank with a locking cap. Yellow is all its going to be.

chasio
26th December 2015, 12:07
18.5L IMS tank with a locking cap. Yellow is all its going to be.

Thanks. Will bear that in mind!

Waihou Thumper
27th December 2015, 07:02
Hi all.
The DR650 has been sitting around and it is hard to start...
Charged up the battery and that is fine. When it starts it idles then stops..
Then it is almost impossible to start...
I then leave it for an hour, try again.
When it finally starts, as soon as I try a little throttle it misses, then stops!
Back to square one?
No choke, try again. Starts then idles a tad, then stops....Cannot start it!
I am no mechanic, so what can I do....Is it Carb related, stale fuel or something perhaps? :brick:

speights_bud
27th December 2015, 07:08
Sounds like it's not getting fuel

Waihou Thumper
27th December 2015, 07:18
Sounds like it's not getting fuel

Yeah, my thought too. I got it started and let it idle for 5 minutes, slowly turned throttle to 2000 rpm....
Seems to run but then any more, just farts and stalls...
Too lean = no fuel, too much bloody air!

Waihou Thumper
27th December 2015, 08:11
:niceone:
Because it must have been fuel related, I checked the fuel lines, drained the carburettor.
The line had a kink in it, seemed to be choking off the fuel somehow?
I made a tweak and she popped into life! Wicked!
That rather large fuel tank I have on it will take a bit to drain....AND will cost a bit to fill...

RGVforme
2nd January 2016, 15:07
:niceone:
Because it must have been fuel related, I checked the fuel lines, drained the carburettor.
The line had a kink in it, seemed to be choking off the fuel somehow?
I made a tweak and she popped into life! Wicked!
That rather large fuel tank I have on it will take a bit to drain....AND will cost a bit to fill...


Had the same issue with my DR when I had drained the tank dry for another mission.

Even though I had fuel an inch over the top of the filler tube inside the tank the bike on reserve and normal tap settings would start then splutter die and not run again.Wait 10 minutes and it would do the same.:scratch:

I found fault with the fuel line sitting quite close to the bottom of the 20lt Acerbis tank causing an air bubble in the fuel hose.The fuel in the tank did not gravity push enough to move this bubble.

Adding more fuel and blowing into the tank breather hose to pressurize the tank did though.
I found this out by fitting a clear fuel hose so I could see wtf was happening to my fuel flow as I suspected a dodge fuel tap was at fault at first lol.:clap:

Now if I don't ride for a bit I pop out to the shed and turn the fuel tap on then off for a bit to top of the carb and fuel line from any fuel vapor loss.
Had to be a simple reason the ole rooter was letting me down :headbang:

MarkH
5th January 2016, 15:30
Been doing some riding, now need to replace both front & rear tyres!

Went to the middle:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vWRRQpd6VWY/Vosx4jbo1GI/AAAAAAAAFDY/mJmgyVRZkdE/s1152-Ic42/DR650_3d.jpg

Then went to a campsite (not very close by, heaps of gravel riding got done):

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RXjAfeouAVQ/VosyFojMnTI/AAAAAAAAFDw/PRSNtDYydOk/s1152-Ic42/DR650_3a.jpg

I'm enjoying my new hammock & tarp:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-n8f8VzLgzL8/VosyATTycBI/AAAAAAAAFDo/FKzuKwiZpPc/s1152-Ic42/DR650_3c.jpg

The DR is looking pretty good as my main camping vehicle:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vQWdWYzpTcU/VoSwD6Ri1uI/AAAAAAAAFCo/2Ny3XKqqZ-U/s1152-Ic42/DR650_Camping_1.jpg

I'm going to get a new Mitas E07 front and an E07 rear too.

Night Falcon
5th January 2016, 16:38
DR doing what it was made for, Awesome! That hammock set up looks comfy Mark. I'd need a ladder for getting in and out of it though :laugh:

Waihou Thumper
5th January 2016, 16:46
DR doing what it was made for, Awesome! That hammock set up looks comfy Mark. I'd need a ladder for getting in and out of it though :laugh:


...and you'd fall out of it I bet...:clap: Injure yourself once more....

Waihou Thumper
5th January 2016, 16:50
Brave man kipping out there at night...:)
Nice stuff!

MarkH
5th January 2016, 17:44
I'd need a ladder for getting in and out of it though :laugh:

Once I get in I think my butt is under 0.5m from the ground, best not to sleep suspended from any higher you would be OK to fall from!

I'm glad my hammock has a bug net, would have been eaten alive over night by mozzies otherwise!

RGVforme
5th January 2016, 18:17
Brave man kipping out there at night...:)
Nice stuff!

Yeah theres some randy pig hunting hillbillies around there who would like a bit of bike seat hardened arse lol.:eek:

Just as well it was 0.5 off the ground lol.

JATZ
5th January 2016, 21:08
...and you'd fall out of it I bet...:clap: Injure yourself once more....
That's exactly what I was thinking... some people don't have a good track record :Pokey:




I'm going to get a new Mitas E07 front and an E07 rear too.

E07 front ? Personaly I prefer something with knobs at the pointy end, like an E09/E10 or similar, and an E07 rear.

MarkH
5th January 2016, 22:17
E07 front ? Personaly I prefer something with knobs at the pointy end, like an E09/E10 or similar, and an E07 rear.

My Current front is an E07 and it has been doing well, though I have a Kenda I might put on for some proper off-road riding mid february.

Eddieb
11th January 2016, 20:09
Been doing some riding, now need to replace both front & rear tyres!

Went to the middle:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vWRRQpd6VWY/Vosx4jbo1GI/AAAAAAAAFDY/mJmgyVRZkdE/s1152-Ic42/DR650_3d.jpg

Then went to a campsite (not very close by, heaps of gravel riding got done):

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RXjAfeouAVQ/VosyFojMnTI/AAAAAAAAFDw/PRSNtDYydOk/s1152-Ic42/DR650_3a.jpg

I'm enjoying my new hammock & tarp:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-n8f8VzLgzL8/VosyATTycBI/AAAAAAAAFDo/FKzuKwiZpPc/s1152-Ic42/DR650_3c.jpg

The DR is looking pretty good as my main camping vehicle:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vQWdWYzpTcU/VoSwD6Ri1uI/AAAAAAAAFCo/2Ny3XKqqZ-U/s1152-Ic42/DR650_Camping_1.jpg

I'm going to get a new Mitas E07 front and an E07 rear too.

Nice cruisy ride that: http://www.adventureridingnz.co.nz/gps-tracks-rides/north-island-tracks/the-geographic-center-of-the-north-island/

You can get Mitas tyres here: http://www.adventureridingnz.co.nz/product-category/mitas-tyres/

Waihou Thumper
14th January 2016, 15:52
Hi guys....
I swapped to one of these and it was a bitch to install! The brace at the front got me swearing a tad to make it fit evenly and successfully do up the bolts.
Anyway, I have been having issues starting the bike and at first I thought it was an air bubble or similar.
I then though maybe I was on reserve and then of course realised that these tanks don't have a reserve right?
So, this morning went to start it and flattened the battery in the process.
I looked inside and saw both tubes free of fuel which meant effectively I had run out.
Looking at the side of the tanks there is still 50-75 mm there, that's my reserve I guess :)
When riding the bike, the slosh effect will still keep me going right? Tomorrow then, off to the gas station and buy some fuel, top her up and hopefully I get going again.
All this time I thought there was an issue with the carb, the hoses, the air blockages when in-fact I had just run out of gas!
So much for a 35 litre Safari tank, I cannot even monitor the fuel range from my garage...:weird:

eldog
14th January 2016, 16:42
I cannot even monitor the fuel range from my garage...:weird:

Sometimes the most obvious solution is to start at the beginning, but we often try to think too hard and can't see it.

How many times have you had a electrical appliance which doesn't go and nothing you do will make it start, then you find someone around the corner has turned it off or replaced your power cable with theirs.

In these cases I bugger off and do something else come back to it and theres the problem right in front of me. :facepalm:

RGVforme
14th January 2016, 18:43
Hi guys....
I swapped to one of these and it was a bitch to install! The brace at the front got me swearing a tad to make it fit evenly and successfully do up the bolts.
Anyway, I have been having issues starting the bike and at first I thought it was an air bubble or similar.
I then though maybe I was on reserve and then of course realised that these tanks don't have a reserve right?
So, this morning went to start it and flattened the battery in the process.
I looked inside and saw both tubes free of fuel which meant effectively I had run out.
Looking at the side of the tanks there is still 50-75 mm there, that's my reserve I guess :)
When riding the bike, the slosh effect will still keep me going right? Tomorrow then, off to the gas station and buy some fuel, top her up and hopefully I get going again.
All this time I thought there was an issue with the carb, the hoses, the air blockages when in-fact I had just run out of gas!
So much for a 35 litre Safari tank, I cannot even monitor the fuel range from my garage...:weird:

Glad you got the prob sorted.

There is always a small amount of fuel left in my Acerbis tank when she splutters and dies.
Fuel slosh while riding or stopping and tilting the bike over helps the gas over the hump inside the tank but
only for little bit.

It is what it is but still a small trade off for the still 400ish km range over the stock 220ish.

Something I did after this tank mod (and with every other road bike ive had) is fill up the tank plus a 5lt tin strapped to the back zero'd the trip meter then rode it past reserve until she died.Checking the kms meter numbers to tank level as I went then used the 5lt to get home/to the servo.

This is how I know about how many kms to what level is in my tank and kms left when I hit reserve.:wings:

Waihou Thumper
14th January 2016, 19:22
Dunno if it is sorted yet! Tomorrow will be the test.
35 litres should get me into next week! no need to ride it that low, but the guys in the know with the larger Safari tanks,
How much do you have left when the tubes are exposed, approx I mean?
There is no reserve though, so I take it what I have left just so happens to be my reserve, tipping it over and riding a little more aggressive to slosh things around to fill the fuel lines...:)

RGVforme
14th January 2016, 19:46
Dunno if it is sorted yet! Tomorrow will be the test.
35 litres should get me into next week! no need to ride it that low, but the guys in the know with the larger Safari tanks,
How much do you have left when the tubes are exposed, approx I mean?
There is no reserve though, so I take it what I have left just so happens to be my reserve, tipping it over and riding a little more aggressive to slosh things around to fill the fuel lines...:)

About 2lts on the main tube and 300mils when reserve runs out.So reserve gets me about 35kms aprox.

It looks like Safari tanks sit lower down each side of the bike hence why you may have no need/Not supplied with for a reserve circuit tap.
The fuel may simply be lower than your carb inlet at this level and not flow anyway perhaps.

Out of interest once I removed and drained the tank after I run reserve out sitting on the sidestand in the shed and got about 300mils.

Design fault but meh.A full 20lt tank gets me over 400kms so your 35 is a beast lol.Stock carb Drs do 4.5 to 4.8lts per 100km!.:lol:

FYI if your DR carb is stock with this tank mod and your not using the vacuum circuit block off the old vacuum hole in your carb properly.
This can cause starting and running issues also.

Good luck you will be right it takes a lot to stop a rooter dead.:msn-wink:

Waihou Thumper
14th January 2016, 20:37
It looks like Safari tanks sit lower down each side of the bike hence why you may have no need/Not supplied with for a reserve circuit tap.
The fuel may simply be lower than your carb inlet at this level and not flow anyway perhaps.
:msn-wink:

You know, that is the first thing that jumped out at me with your reply!
Head, pressure....There ain't any...
With a full tank there is, and yes it does sit lower, so it is a bit like pushing it up-hill.
I need a pump then, like I see on some conversions...(perhaps)

Waihou Thumper
15th January 2016, 06:28
Good luck you will be right it takes a lot to stop a rooter dead.:msn-wink:


Dropped 5 litres in the left lobe, some flowed over to the right. Both tap tubes were covered....
It's alive! So, that is something to think about....:clap:
Might get the indelible marker out and put in some litre indicators similar to what I have seen done by others...:)
Now, how far will it take me once full? Hmm....

RGVforme
15th January 2016, 12:39
Dropped 5 litres in the left lobe, some flowed over to the right. Both tap tubes were covered....
It's alive! So, that is something to think about....:clap:
Might get the indelible marker out and put in some litre indicators similar to what I have seen done by others...:)
Now, how far will it take me once full? Hmm....


:headbang: :2thumbsup :drinknsin The Dog Rooter lives again..

Waihou Thumper
14th February 2016, 07:32
I have for sale brand new never mounted....

http://adventurebikeaustralia.com.au/product/armor-plating-engine-cases/

and a fork brace, that has been mounted in my garage but didn't want it in the end...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-DR650-Fork-Brace-/301183075886

If you want them, please slip me a PM....