ESE's works engine tuner

[ApolloMotoMoto]

Looks like PerformanceTrends received everything they needed to confirm the code was working as intended;

PerformanceTrends Dyno DataMite Version 4.2 B.045 was just released today.

Changelog Entry:

----- Jan 14, 2025 Version 4.2 B.045 -----------------------------
Added 2 stroke FSO correction factor, Pro or Enterprise Dyno versions
only.



...lol at the typo in the changelog, should be FOS, not FSO...

[wobbly]

HaHa - Frits's Sublime Offerings - FSO, I think we should keep it.

I assume that whole facility at Aprilia is still in operation Frits ?

[41juergen]

... just to make you guys a little jealous, that's where I work
:cool:
355503

Ok, only Horiba setup, one can do better.. :yes: (just a joke, looks very nice!)

[Frits Overmars]

HaHa - Frits's Sublime Offerings - FSO, I think we should keep it.I finally thought I had a chance to become world famous and then all the credits go to a Polish Car Manufacturer :D
355511

[Frits Overmars]

... just to make you guys a little jealous, that's where I work:cool:
355503Allrad-Prüfstand, auch nicht schlecht. Now we just have to wait for the first 4-wheel drive motorcycle at KiwiBiker :msn-wink:. Neil Hintz, are you there?

[Frank S.]

Allrad-Prüfstand



We also have a few engine test benches, but unfortunately not a single 2-stroke engine in the entire company :crybaby::crybaby::crybaby:
I had to take an official picture because posting my own photos would be quite bad for my career:nono:

[_____]

The Aprilia dyno department was a somewhat different kettle of fish. Controlling the air humidity was taken care of by an air conditioner that cooled all incoming air, condensing the water vapor, and then heating that air up again to the required temperature. That airco consumed about as much electricity as Aprilia's home town Noale.


Hi Frits,

If I recall an older comment of yours correctly, the tests were performed at 25°C.
Did you add water after removing all of it? Or did you operate the engines as 0% relative density?
Because humidity has a big influence on knocking!

I am asking, since modern car engines have a map sensor that is measuring not only temperature and pressure, but also humidity.

BR
Chris

[Frits Overmars]

Hi Frits, If I recall an older comment of yours correctly, the tests were performed at 25°C.
Did you add water after removing all of it? Or did you operate the engines as 0% relative density? Because humidity has a big influence on knocking!
I am asking, since modern car engines have a map sensor that is measuring not only temperature and pressure, but also humidity.
BR ChrisIn practice, you don't always need to remove all the water but only bring the relative humidity to the desired value. Sometimes you have to remove water to do that, sometimes you even have to add it.

I didn't know about a MAP sensor that measures temp, pressure and humidity. Do you have any further information on that?

[ApolloMotoMoto]

So, the team is pretty close to running the first validation pulls on our brand new inertia dyno, and I have a question for those with knowledge and experience using a simple inertia dyno (with fixed flywheel mass and no braking) to develop 2 stroke engines...

PerformanceTrends says in their documentation that the flywheels inertia should be "sized" such that the "acceleration time" of a "full pull" to maximum RPM should take between 5 to 10 seconds in order to get "good accuracy".

Quote:

"You need an acceleration time of 5 to 10 seconds for good accuracy."

They ALSO SAY:

"Use moderate acceleration rates, like 300-500 engine RPM per second. Very quick acceleration rates, like 1000 RPM per second are less accurate."

I am assuming a pull of less than 5 seconds is not going to suffieciently load the engine to accurately measure the total torque capacity?
-What insight can those with actual experience provide for this "bottom threshold" for the time, in seconds, of a pull on an inertia dyno.

Next up, what about the 10 seconds on the top side of their range?
-Why would pull times exceeding 10 seconds detrimentally effect accuracy?
-I have seen recommendations for longer pulls on 2 stroke engines to allow the pipe to sufficient heat through the pull, but I dont recall what the time in seconds was recommended to be...?
-again, any insight can be provided on this "top threshhold" for acceleration time?

If I use the "moderate acceleration rate" recommendation, for the pulls I want to do, we are talking pulls from 4k - 16k RPM; thats a sweep of 12,000 RPM's...

12,000 / 300 RPM per second = 40 seconds

12,000 / 500 RPM per second = 24 seconds

12,000 / 1000 RPM per second = 12 second (already longer than 10....)

[Haufen]

So, the team is pretty close to running the first validation pulls on our brand new inertia dyno, and I have a question for those with knowledge and experience using a simple inertia dyno (with fixed flywheel mass and no braking) to develop 2 stroke engines...


Use an acceleration time that is equivalent to what you are going to have when you ride it. Ideal case: the acceleration time in each gear is the same on the dyno and on the road. For that to be the case the roller has do be twice the weight of the bike including rider.

As long as you are unsure about jetting and ignition timing, fuel supply etc, use a shorter acceleration time as it is less likely to destroy an engine with lighter load. Once you are more comfortable with the setting you can switch to longer pulls, using a higher gear. Extra long / longer acceleration times would be the equivalent to driving uphill and vice versa.

[husaberg]

Just seen this
https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=312304&d=1432629515
Garelli

[lohring]

We probably ran shorter than 5 second pulls when we tested 26 to 35 cc two strokes. We tested from 12,000 rpm to over 20,000 rpm. That represented the run up time into the traps for our straight line speed attempts. We had issues with weird spikes from time to time. We had a direct connected flywheel without an over running clutch. We measured flywheel rpm only. The magnetic sensor was sometimes erratic at the higher rpms. A Hall effect sensor might have been better. I usually imported the data into an Excel spreadsheet and averaged three identical runs to help average out run to run variations.

Lohring Miller

[ApolloMotoMoto]

Use an acceleration time that is equivalent to what you are going to have when you ride it. Ideal case: the acceleration time in each gear is the same on the dyno and on the road. For that to be the case the roller has do be twice the weight of the bike including rider.

As long as you are unsure about jetting and ignition timing, fuel supply etc, use a shorter acceleration time as it is less likely to destroy an engine with lighter load. Once you are more comfortable with the setting you can switch to longer pulls, using a higher gear. Extra long / longer acceleration times would be the equivalent to driving uphill and vice versa.


We probably ran shorter than 5 second pulls when we tested 26 to 35 cc two strokes. We tested from 12,000 rpm to over 20,000 rpm. That represented the run up time into the traps for our straight line speed attempts. We had issues with weird spikes from time to time. We had a direct connected flywheel without an over running clutch. We measured flywheel rpm only. The magnetic sensor was sometimes erratic at the higher rpms. A Hall effect sensor might have been better. I usually imported the data into an Excel spreadsheet and averaged three identical runs to help average out run to run variations.

Lohring Miller


This is kind of what I was expecting to hear given all the research I have done so far;

Essentially, if you want the information gained from your dyno sessions to be "useful" in actual practice; the "length of pull" on the dyno should match as closely as possible the "length of pull" the engine will ACTUALLY SEE when you use it for its intended function.

So; the engines I am working on only have one use in mind:

Road Racing on small Kart tracks in single speed/ direct-drive configuration with a manually operated standard multi-plate motorcycle clutch. (no cetrifugal clutch)

From all of the 'thinking I have been doing, I think I have 2x(at least) "length of pull" metrics that I will be interested in looking at on my dyno.

Pull Standard 1: length of pull should be equal to the the 'average' acceleration time down the "long straight" at the Kart Track you are currently interested in tuning for.
-When tuning for tracks with a LONG straightaway, the pull length should be longer (and match the actual tracks straightaway accel time) than for tracks with SHORTER straightaways, where the accel time down the straight is -obviously- shorter.

Pull Standard 2: length of pull should be equal to the 'average' acceleration time between the exit of one corner and the entry of the immediately following corner (taken from data collected at the track).
-Thinking about this pull standard; it seems to me, for maximum tap time benefit, the slowest corner on the specific track you are currently tuning for that should be "exit corner"
-Improving acceleration time from the slowest corner exit to the immediately following next corner, as I understand it; will yield the greatest improvement in lap times from the metric of engine acceleration capacity.
-Even more gains can possibly be gained on a per-track basis by looking at acceleration times (and start/finish RPM's) for each set of corners. E.G. setting up dyno pulls that exactly match the exit of turn 3 into the entry of turn 4, in order to achieve a modification that ACTUALLY improves acceleration rate between some set of corners that you have identified as being "deficient" with your current power curve.

(clearly there are many other aspects of the bike that can be effectively tuned in order to yield significant improvements in lap times without any change to engine output ;), but when it comes to what can be gained from modifying the power curve of the engine, for my use case, the above is my understanding)

[ApolloMotoMoto]

Heya Wayne, this is Sean Davis from Facebook;

One the Wiseco pistons, I talked to my guy;

They havent sold any of those 11995M05900 pistons to the Asia guy in over 5 years, so it looks like they dont have 'right of refusal' for the transfer of the design.

If you want to work through me, I am totally willing to fascilitate the order through my Wiseco dealer account, my guy said thats just fine with them.

He would like your CAD file as a reference;

There are a few different part numbers the Asia guy had designed at the 59.00mm slug size, one with side-reliefs for some weight savings, for example...
-I told him you probably wouldn't want those, depending on where they are, because of the short circuiting from the aux exhaust port down to the A transfers, he was like, ahhh ok, yep understood.

The MOQ is going to be 12x
The price per piston at the 12x MOQ is going to be ~$150-160 depending on the final details like coatings and what is included with the piston itself (rings, wrist pin, c-clips).
The lead time is going to be ~12 weeks from the date we approve and sign the drawing from Wiseco.
(they will try and come in earlier than this, as they did for me, but that is the standard lead time)

I told him you essentially just need the skirt 3mm longer, and he said that wont be a problem, go ahead and send over the CAD file for reference and they will start working up a drawing for us to review.

[ApolloMotoMoto]

For reference, this is what Wiseco already has drawn up for the KR150 (attached)

[wobbly]

Looks like my comment about the code guy at Performance Trends being a Richard was prophetic.

He was convinced Frits Correction for Humidity was wrong and proceeded to convince himself and everybody else as to how and why.
Its the old story of he who is absolutely convinced of his infallibility , is probably wrong.
He had not transcribed Frits math correctly , exactly the same shit as happened initially with SportDevices.

So - rest easy guys , Frits is still knocking on the door for genius of the year , and my dyno file corrections are on the money.

[ApolloMotoMoto]

Looks like my comment about the code guy at Performance Trends being a Richard was prophetic.

He was convinced Frits Correction for Humidity was wrong and proceeded to convince himself and everybody else as to how and why.
Its the old story of he who is absolutely convinced of his infallibility , is probably wrong.
He had not transcribed Frits math correctly , exactly the same shit as happened initially with SportDevices.

So - rest easy guys , Frits is still knocking on the door for genius of the year , and my dyno file corrections are on the money.

Funny, my team got the same email, and I noticed the same mistake in their transposition of Frits code into their software;

Here is my reply:

Heya Kevin!

I reviewed the FOS Humidity Equation from the FOS .pdf document, and I compared it to what you have input into the DataMite software.

I am 99% sure I found the issue.
-The formula as entered into the DataMite software has one small typo, and does not exactly match the FOS formula!
-You have (...)C2*SGN(C2)*TAIRSTD^2 when it supposed to be (...)C2*SGN(TAIRSTD)*TAIRSTD^2


(The section containing the error is in BOLD on both formulas to make it easier to see)

FOS Formula:

C0=10.86703 : C1=.5 : C2= -0.025 : C3=1.202129E-03
PHUMSTD=HUMSTD/100*(C0+C1*TAIRSTD+C2*SGN(TAIRSTD)*TAIRSTD^2+C3*TA IRSTD^3)

DataMite Software Formula:

LocalWOTC0 = 10.86703: LocalWOTC1 = 0.5: LocalWOTC2 = -0.025: LocalWOTC3 = 0.001202129
PHumStd = HumStd / 100 * (LocalWOTC0 + LocalWOTC1 * TAirStd + LocalWOTC2 * Sgn(LocalWOTC2) * TAirStd ^ 2 + LocalWOTC3 * TAirStd ^ 3)


Here is another comparison with the notation in your formula adjusted to exactly match the FOS notation, making the error more clear:

(FOS Formula ON TOP of DataMite Formula)

PHUMSTD=HUMSTD/100*(C0+C1*TAIRSTD+C2*SGN(TAIRSTD)*TAIRSTD^2+C3*TA IRSTD^3)
PHUMSTD=HUMSTD/100*(C0+C1*TAIRSTD+C2*SGN(C2)*TAIRSTD^2+C3*TAIRSTD ^3)



Please fix the formula typo and re-check the results!

Thank you!



-Sean

[_____]

In practice, you don't always need to remove all the water but only bring the relative humidity to the desired value. Sometimes you have to remove water to do that, sometimes you even have to add it.

I didn't know about a MAP sensor that measures temp, pressure and humidity. Do you have any further information on that?

Ok, do you know by heart what the percentage of Water was the target?

Regarding the sensors:
https://www.te.com/en/product-HPP815A533.html
https://www.te.com/en/product-CAT-HSA0004.html
https://www.amphenol-sensors.com/en/thermometrics/assemblies/3389-combination-sensor

[wobbly]

Those sensors are not MAP as that specifically refers to Manifold Absolute Pressure.
Virtually all modern cars use a MAP and or a hot wire MAF and the fueling tables run off that manifold pressure or the mass of air being transferred into the manifold.
The one shown that does all 3 metrics to be able to generate RAD is pretty trick , and would be great to drive a weather adjusted fuel map , but as it stands that simply is not needed
as MAP and or MAF with IAT and Water Temp works perfectly in practice.

[Frits Overmars]

the engines I am working on only have one use in mind: Road Racing on small Kart tracks in single speed/ direct-drive configuration with a manually operated standard multi-plate motorcycle clutch. (no centrifugal clutch).
I think I have 2x(at least) "length of pull" metrics that I will be interested in looking at on my dyno.
Pull Standard 1: length of pull should be equal to the the 'average' acceleration time down the "long straight".
Pull Standard 2: length of pull should be equal to the 'average' acceleration time between the exit of one corner and the entry of the immediately following corner.
-Thinking about this pull standard, for maximum lap time benefit, the slowest corner on the specific track you are currently tuning for that should be "exit corner" Don't put too much value on your Pull Standard 1.
Direct-drive engines are a special case. When I first encountered such an engine, I thought it was horrible and I was convinced I could do better.
The first thing I did was make a new exhaust pipe with a much narrower, tapered header. Now 'my' kart could overtake two or three competitors every time on the main straight.
Small problem: it would be overtaken by two or three competitors at every corner exit. And all circuits have more corners than straights...

[Frits Overmars]

Looks like my comment about the code guy at Performance Trends being a Richard was prophetic. He was convinced Frits Correction for Humidity was wrong and proceeded to convince himself and everybody else as to how and why.
Its the old story of he who is absolutely convinced of his infallibility , is probably wrong. He had not transcribed Frits math correctly , exactly the same shit as happened initially with SportDevices.
So - rest easy guys , Frits is still knocking on the door for genius of the year , and my dyno file corrections are on the money.So I'm still on my way to eternal fame. Oh well, I suppose it beats knockin' on heaven's door :D https://www.youtube.com/shorts/D-y3ry54Q9I

[ApolloMotoMoto]

So I'm still on my way to eternal fame.

Fire burning within the ice from "Eternal Flame Falls" in Chestnut Ridge Park, New York.

"This flame is visible nearly year round, although it can be extinguished and must occasionally be re-lit."



...must occasionally be re-lit.

[jonny quest]

I saw Wobblys pic of the KR carb arrangement. No room, so it's pointing down towards crank.

It got me thinking. So much flow goes to A ports naturally.

What if the B port started at wall closest to EX port, crosses over in ducts. A duct entry started where B Normally is.

I understand there will be a lot of energy lost in this weird tunnel configuration.

My other reasoning for this, when A exits are left with no chamfers, and there's some room between A exits and EX port... the engine has a much more crisp feeling. It's much easier to jet, you don't have that lag and temperamental nature with short circuiting.

There's a lot of connectivity between A and EX. This criss cross layout may outweigh the current obstacles, even though it will present it's own?

[wobbly]

The carb setup on the KR180 drag engine is done that way to get the intake dead straight and more importantly to get the the exact tuned length
from reed tips to the bellmouth + end correction.
That SPJ carb will have the intake filter adapter removed , if I use it instead of a 40mm Lectron HV.
The Intake Trace shows the intake wave bouncing of atmosphere going + pressure ratio at the same time the case goes negative.
This pressure differential on both sides of the reed petals opens them quicker and higher, and works over about a 2000 rpm span.

[Vannik]

I saw Wobblys pic of the KR carb arrangement. No room, so it's pointing down towards crank.

It got me thinking. So much flow goes to A ports naturally.

What if the B port started at wall closest to EX port, crosses over in ducts.

Why do you assume the flow goes naturally to the A-port. As the piston goes up the flow naturally goes into the cavity the piston movement creates. As the pressure in the transfer ducts are also higher than the pressure in this cavity, there is also flow from the transfer ducts into this cavity. This is why you want to aim the reed block pointing into this cavity. Unfortunately transmissions usually get in the way as it is even more important to get the inlet duct straight.

Now from the above explanation it should also be clear that Boyesen ports do not aid flow to the B-port but add extra area to the piston controlled part of a cylinder reed. Strange how many still miss this.

[TZ350]

.
355592355593355594

Maybe not as flash as some but two working examples of Kiwi home brew dynos and the ESE boys figuring out how to use a secondhand Dynojet. Nothing too expensive here, but they all do the job.

[Flettner]

Thats an ugly picture:laugh:
At least its under cover now, hoping to modify it so it can be an inertia dyno as well as load dyno, depending on what you want at the time.

[Flettner]

Pissed around and made a press tool for making tight 90 degree water pipe bends from 1.6mm alloy sheet. Just tig along the edges. 19.6 mm outside dia, 20mm radius.

[SwePatrick]

If someone ever needs a guide how to easily install ignitech ignitionsystems:


https://youtu.be/K6ryPPIyThs

[SwePatrick]

And a little progress video.
My Kartengine is coming along nicely.
It has dynoed so far, very rough tuned 42.3rwhp.(howgrinded meteringrod in my 42mm lectron)
And!
Keep in mind, i have just thrown together a pipe from 'feeling', no calculations at all, just for fun.
I´m about to build a pipe designed for this engine, coming up in the future.


https://youtube.com/shorts/OKxjDYwWk44?feature=share

[wobbly]

I am in the process of getting Wiseco to do a proper single ring race piston for the KR180 drag race engine.
It has a 59mm bore , and this is unusual except for several models of 125 engines that were converted with a big bore to become 150cc.
It looks as though the MOQ is going to be 12 units, most of which I dont want or need.
The only people I can think of who would want this piston ( apart from Thai drag racers ) are the several people here in NZ that converted their RS250
engines into RS300 racebikes by putting on NSR150 cylinders that had the same 59mm bore.
I cant remember who these guys were , one of them used to post on here, anyone know who - please PM me, or post it here.

[F5 Dave]

That'll be Sketchy and Richard of i-tools . Both those bikes are probably parked. Sketchy had been fooling fairly extensively with 1/2 an FZR250 and turbo. Had his partner in crime over for a beer Friday and was supposed to go see his turbo at kiatoki on Monday but the 300 Beta had to be ridden.

Amusing aside for electric start 2 strokes.
I washed it and changed dash button battery. Start it to check.
But it wouldn't catch. Making some weird noises. Then hissing after an attempt. WTF? What have I done?!?

Oh. Bung in muffler still from wash. Doh. The hisses explained. Pipe pressure. Not ideL for crank seals but started right up after my embarrassing discovery. :facepalm:

[ApolloMotoMoto]

So, now that I have become the math guru for more than one dyno operator, I need some help from higher level gurus than myself.


How to calculate the moment of inertia of a flywheel...


I have found a few formulas floating around for the mythical "drop test".

Lets see if I can describe what we did, and the math I have found for some "peer review"....


We have a flywheel pinned on a shaft.

The shaft is supported between two pillowblock bearings on a frame.

The shaft also has a sprocket pinned on it.

A complete loop of chain is placed around the sprocket.
(the same chain and sprocket that will be used to drive the flywheel when it comes time to connect an engine)

The chain "drapes" down below the sprocket about 2 feet.

All of this is supported on the frame high enough that the draping chain doesnt touch the ground.

A 3ld weight is hung from a link of "draping" section of chain (near the top).

This 3ld weight is support by a persons hand.

The stopwatch is started the moment the weight is released.

The stopwatch is stopped the moment the weight touches the ground.
(during the full drop, the chain is in a perfectly straight line)

The weight was 3lds (as already noted)
The height of the drop was 1.4375 feet
The time of the drop was 7.3 seconds
The radius of the sprocket was 0.375 feet


I stumbled onto this formula, but I do not know if it correct???

"The formula to calculate the moment of inertia (inertia) of a flywheel using a hanging weight is typically expressed as: I = (m * g * h) / (ω²); where "m" is the mass of the hanging weight, "g" is the acceleration due to gravity, "h" is the height from which the weight falls, and "ω" is the angular velocity of the flywheel."

A a few images are attached to provide some more detail.


My questions:

1. Is the above formula actually applicable to the test I have performaned, and is the formula an accepted method of calculating moment of inertia?

2. Does the drop test I performed provide sufficient data to perform a moment of inertia calculation?

3. We have currently convinced ourselves that using the sprocket and chain during the drop test will ALSO be measuring the resulting moment of inertia of those components as the sum of everything that is being "spun" by the dropping weight. Is this a reasonable assesment?

4. We have further convinced ourselves that this is a good idea, as the engine will be spinning the inertia of these componenets during a pull. Are we missing something?

[husaberg]

Use an acceleration time that is equivalent to what you are going to have when you ride it. Ideal case: the acceleration time in each gear is the same on the dyno and on the road. For that to be the case the roller has do be twice the weight of the bike including rider.

As long as you are unsure about jetting and ignition timing, fuel supply etc, use a shorter acceleration time as it is less likely to destroy an engine with lighter load. Once you are more comfortable with the setting you can switch to longer pulls, using a higher gear. Extra long / longer acceleration times would be the equivalent to driving uphill and vice versa.

You can do what 2 stroke stuffing did and use a ABB electric motor and let Abb do the calcs for you.

[wobbly]

I used this test as well as doing the manual math inertia calculations supplied by SportDevices.
But the drop test is much more accurate if you expand the drop height , and thus the time base.
I wound string several times around the inertia weight up to a pulley in the workshop roof ( 6M height ) with a 1KG weight.
Holding the dyno wheel by hand , as I let it go I hit the dyno run record button , and hit end when the weight hit the floor , this gave the wheel speed and time info needed.
Doing this several times and averaging the result gave accurate info that also includes the roll friction.
The answer gave almost perfect correlation to the manual calc's of the inertia wheel, starter flexplate and brake disc and axle that all form the total run up inertia.

[Noxin]

I just calculated all parts individual inertia and added them together.
Then I spun the flywheel and measured the negative friction and wind drag power when it slowed down.
Then I just add this power curve when testing a motorcycle or moped.

https://youtube.com/shorts/pbGIH3S1t14

[ApolloMotoMoto]

I used this test as well as doing the manual math inertia calculations supplied by SportDevices.
But the drop test is much more accurate if you expand the drop height , and thus the time base.
I wound string several times around the inertia weight up to a pulley in the workshop roof ( 6M height ) with a 1KG weight.
Holding the dyno wheel by hand , as I let it go I hit the dyno run record button , and hit end when the weight hit the floor , this gave the wheel speed and time info needed.
Doing this several times and averaging the result gave accurate info that also includes the roll friction.
The answer gave almost perfect correlation to the manual calc's of the inertia wheel, starter flexplate and brake disc and axle that all form the total run up inertia.

Okay, we did the "manual calc" for all the sub assemblies of the flywheel (hub - spokes - rim) and got 266 pounds per quare foot.

This was done for JUST the flywheel so far, not the sprocket and the chain which are also attached in the drop test.

The math from the drop test produces a resulting 280 pounds per square foot, or 5% higher than the flywheel all by itself.

That seems to be a fairly good correlation; the extra 5% should be the measured friction loss of the pillow block bearings plus the additional inertia of the chain and sprocket.

[ApolloMotoMoto]

Alright, next question...


The measured torque to HP math;

I ran into something I thought I understood, but now I am not so confident about my understanding;

Torque = Total Dyno Inertia multiplied by the measured Angular Acceleration (α) of the flywheel for the given set of data-points.

T = Iα

Now that you have the Torque value for a given set of data-points;

Horsepower = Torque multiplied by (Revolutions Per Minute divided by 5252)

HP = T * (RPM / 5252)


Okay, here is my question;

For the above HP equation, when using an inertia dyno;

RPM of the ENGINE...???

or

RPM of the FLYWHEEL...???


I am having an internal argument in my head and I cant come to a resolution about which one it has to be >.<

Can someone with more empirical knowledge of the math behind an inertia dyno measurement point me on the right track please?

[Vannik]

Alright, next question...

Can someone with more empirical knowledge of the math behind an inertia dyno measurement point me on the right track please?

On the same component where you calculated the torque.

[ApolloMotoMoto]

On the same component where you calculated the torque.

Thank you Neels!

[ApolloMotoMoto]

The student returns with another question :D

Can someone please check my math?



We did calculations for Flywheel Moment of Inertia.

I = (k)mr^2

Sub-divided each part, used the mass for that part, and the k constant that made sense for that part; k=1 for the rim, k=0.5 for the hub, etc.

Using pounds for mass and feet for radius, this is how we got to 266 ld ft^2 for the flywheel by itself.
Using the same units for the drop test, we ended up with 280 ld ft^2.

Okay, now I have a value for Inertia in the torque equation T=Ia

All bright eyed and bushy tailed, I calculated the angular acceleration of the flywheel for a test pull that was just conducted with a 212cc 4 stroke engine that should make 8.1ft ld ft of torque peak, and about 6.5 hp peak. (Honda Generator Engine Clone)

I dont have the recorded pull data to see the actual curve shape, but I know the start and end engine RPM's of the pull, I know the time of the pull in seconds, and I know the gear ratio between engine and flywheel shaft.

RPM range = 1000 Engine RPM to 5000 Engine RPM
Pull Time = 15 seconds
Gear Ratio = 6:1 (10t on engine crankshaft, 60t on flywheel, no transmission, no clutch)

Thus, averaged across the pull, the engine accelerated at a rate of 266.66 RPM's per second.
Using the 6:1 gear reduction, this means the flywheel accelerated at an average rate of 44.5 RPM's per second.

The software has a sampling frequency of 5 samples/second.

So, I decided to look at 0.2 second "steps" of time for the rate of angular acceleration (a). Using the average acceleration rate of the Flywheel I whitled down to:

44.5 RPM's per second = 0.74 RPS's per second = 0.148 RPS's per data point (per 0.2 seconds) = 0.93 angular velocity (w) per data point

So, if this is averaged across the whole run, each data point will have the same (w), and thus the same delta(w).
Same thing for time, every data point is 0.2 seconds "wide", so delta(t) will always be 0.2.

Finaly;

a = delta(w) / delta(t)
a = 0.93 / 0.2
a = 4.65


Now, armed with all of the mathematical powers needed to divine the measured engine power.... everything falls appart.

T=Ia
T=280 * 4.65
T=1302

1302 ft lds of Torque measured at the flywheel shaft?!?!?!
-okay, thats a little big, but thats flywheel shaft torque, so lets divide it by the 6:1 gear ratio to find out what the engine did....

1302 ft lds / 6 = 217 ft lds of "average" Engine Torque across the 15 second pull.

Thats a fever dream, not a measurement....


After considering my life decisions for a few hours, I think I stumbled into my problem:


I = (k)mr^2 only works with SI units.

The output of that formula when we use pounds and feet is absolute bunk for executing the T=Ia formula.

So, I redid the Moment of Inertia Calcuation using SI units.

I end up with 11.8 kg m^2 after converting the weight of the flywheel in lds to kgs (110ld flywheel), and converting the radius to meters (2ft radius flywheel).
-lets try this one more time:

T=Ia
T=11.8 * 4.65
T=54.87

54.87 Nm of Torque measured at the Flywheel shaft, that sounds more like reality.
54.87 Nm lds / 6 = 9.15 Nm of "average" Engine Torque across the 15 second pull.
9.15 Nm converts to 6.75 ft lds.

6.75 "average" ft lds across a pull from 1000 - 5000, using a 4 stroke engine that makes ~8.1 ft lds of peak torque at 2,500 RPM?
-considering this 6.75 ft lds is "uncorrected power", and the ~8.1 ft lds number is the manufacturer advertised, SAE corrected output.

That sounds like a real measurement.

Now, lets check HP using flywheel RPM like Neels just advised.

To do this, I took the 54.87 Nm of flywheel shaft torque and converted it to ft lds;
54.87Nm converts to 40.47 ft lds

Using 40.47 for torque and flywheel RPM for RPM, I calculated HP at 1000 Engine RPM (166 flywheel rpm) and 5000 Engine RPM (833 flywheel rpm).

HP = T * (RPM / 5252)

If the Torque curve is averaged to the "flat line" of 6.75 ft lds of torque at every RPM step like I have done;

HP at 1000 RPM = 1.3 HP
HP at 5000 RPM = 6.4 HP

That is "in the ballpark" as they say.

Final sanity check;

The pull did not go to 5252 RPM, but if I keep extending the averaged 6.75 ft lds of torque out to 5252;

HP at 5252 RPM = 6.75
Torque at 5252 RPM = 6.75


HP and Torque "cross over" at 5252 RPM's!

Woohoo!


Can someone please check my math and give me a positive confirmation that I = (k)mr^2 only works with SI units for the purpose of using in the formula T=Ia?

[wobbly]

Math apart - do not be focused on the Hp/Torque graphs " crossing " at 5252 - that is a completely irrelevant but automatic metric.
Set the scales such that they are the easyest to read and interpret , having a wider scale on Torque can reveal subtleties not seen when the Y scale is compressed
to include Nm that are not even used on track and thus are not needed when dyno testing.

[ApolloMotoMoto]

Can someone please check my math and give me a positive confirmation that I = (k)mr^2 only works with SI units for the purpose of using in the formula T=Ia?

I figured it out!

It doesnt work with pounds because the pound is not a unit of mass (m) its a unit of weight.

The Imperia SI unit for mass is the slug.

This is the first time I have ever heard of a slug.

1 Slug = 32.17 pounds

Thus;

lds/32.17 = slugs

If you use slugs per square feet for the I in: T=Ia;

The resulting T will be in pound feets.

If you use kilograms per square meter for the I in : T=Ia

The resulting T will be in newton meters.

When I do the conversion of 280 lds per ft^2 to 8.75 slugs per ft^2 all of the numbers agree weather I use Imperial or Metric inputs in the motion physics formulas.

Kilograms per square meter of Inertia comes out as Newton Meters of Torque.

Slugs per square foot of Inertia comes out as Pound Feet of Torque.


We are re-conducting the drop-test using string wrapped around the flywheels axle shaft, with a pulley at the top of the garage for the longest fall distance we can make happen.

Thank you very much to everyone's assistance!

[Pursang]

https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsdcp4CpEi860C0PQjq6VxI64p4UQ7ttcUichXvbcLpm g48bOPxmFPVnuUvBYY06cwsuRDj6otcLbTgjzB0ZC56A1UtuNE hocUUnvXoGMkbz_xQTQXOgznxnzzMdztEZKC_PDU8CLisL4/s320/Imagem24.jpg

There are really good reasons that Science and the rest of the world use the metric system (S.I. Système international d'unités.)

[F5 Dave]

Michelin tyres and the SI system. Best things to come out of France.

[diesel pig]

Michelin tyres and the SI system. Best things to come out of France.

You mean the only good things ever to come out of the land of terrible latin.

[husaberg]

Hi I was talking to a gentleman today at Ruapuna
He asked about what aluminium to use for sleeves to be plated.
Also about CF rotary valves and clearances.
He has posted on here.

I remember either Wob, Neil , Rob, or maybe Yow using specific a grade I think 2040? or similar that was fee matching an took the replating well?
I had a man look but TBH I am beat after only a few hours sleep and 600km travel today.

Good to see the Kr250 out looking all green and mean and a fair few TZ or close analogues.
My son is finally running comparable times on the Honda well......4t compared to the old Supermoto.
clean holeshot in all races and clean and tidy lines with the bike staying on the track.
I was hoping to catch up with DP. but missed him.

[husaberg]

Michelin tyres and the SI system. Best things to come out of France.

Didn't they invent the white flag or at least popularise its use? Pretty sure they also did a lot of developments work with scuba diving, limpet mines and zodiac dinghies...

[F5 Dave]

As I get older and more exposed to the Internet I realise that people are people and generally good sorts. It's the government's that tend to cause the trouble, and their's have been dreadfully damaging.

[Peter1962]

Didn't they invent the white flag or at least popularise its use? Pretty sure they also did a lot of developments work with scuba diving, limpet mines and zodiac dinghies...

They are great neighbours, but when it comes to inventing really important stuff they are no match.
https://www.compass-group.be/sites/default/files/styles/media_landscape/public/media/images/2021-07/national_french_fries_day_-_belgian_fries_website_visual.jpg?itok=JSh6oSVG

https://www.compass-group.be/en/stories/french-fries-are-a-belgian-invention

[Storbeck]

Can't argue with the waffles. And FN Browning.

LeMans should count for something I suppose?

[F5 Dave]

And the croissant. . . Oh. That's from Austria. :mellow:

[katinas]

Hi I was talking to a gentleman today at Ruapuna
He asked about what aluminium to use for sleeves to be plated.


Heat treated A6061 T6 containing magnesium and silicon as its major alloying elements and easy to find.

[wobbly]

Yes 6061 T6 in 8mm is what I will be using for the added plate on top of the KR180.
Is not available in 8mm plate so was sliced off a 127mm bar , CNC machined and bored /drilled to suit.
It has 0.2mm extra height to be take off after welding around the bore and the water jacket

[diesel pig]

So are two holes either side of the top stud hole for the coolant? are you happy that they are large a enough?

[Flettner]

For casting cylinders fresh, LM13.
2024 if you want to machine a piston from solid.

[husaberg]

plus 10....


https://www.wakefieldmetals.co.nz/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/roundBar.pdf

they do tubes in f-grades that suit , but not in the size someone wanted....


Both Fletchers and Ulrich do heavy wall alloy tube in 6000 series.
This plates just fine according to Grant at the platers down South


For casting cylinders fresh, LM13.
2024 if you want to machine a piston from solid.


Hi I was talking to a gentleman today at Ruapuna
He asked about what aluminium to use for sleeves to be plated.
Also about CF rotary valves and clearances.
He has posted on here.

I remember either Wob, Neil , Rob, or maybe Yow using specific a grade I think 2040? or similar that was fee matching an took the replating well?
I had a man look but TBH I am beat after only a few hours sleep and 600km travel today.

Good to see the Kr250 out looking all green and mean and a fair few TZ or close analogues.
My son is finally running comparable times on the Honda well......4t compared to the old Supermoto.
clean holeshot in all races and clean and tidy lines with the bike staying on the track.
I was hoping to catch up with DP. but missed him.


Heat treated A6061 T6 containing magnesium and silicon as its major alloying elements and easy to find.


Yes 6061 T6 in 8mm is what I will be using for the added plate on top of the KR180.
Is not available in 8mm plate so was sliced off a 127mm bar , CNC machined and bored /drilled to suit.
It has 0.2mm extra height to be take off after welding around the bore and the water jacket

[SwePatrick]

Lugging my hair yesterday, dynoing the Kartengine.
Well, it all falls in place in the end ;) :D :D :O


https://youtu.be/kV_J-68ijec

[jonny quest]

Kawasaki is coming out with a new full sized 2 stroke dirtbike. Last year of production was 2007 for their KX line.

[husaberg]

Some interesting info in here.

Kr250
https://www.classicracer.com/classic-racer-machines-kawasaki-kr250-350-developing-the-tandem-twins/

Exactweld
https://www.classicracer.com/gorgeous-the-exactweld-story/

[Flettner]

Cylinder back from NZ Cylinders.

[diesel pig]

Cylinder back from NZ Cylinders.

I have to know "what's in the small jar"

[190mech]

Photo #1 instruction sheet says Motul Kart synthetic castor for pre lube..

[diesel pig]

Photo #1 instruction sheet says Motul Kart synthetic castor for pre lube..

Makes sense. Thank you

[husaberg]

I have to know "what's in the small jar"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8G9BsuaFtk
.............

[wobbly]

This is something that Millenium struggled with for years and are still getting shit poked at them even now.
They keep getting random " streaking " up the bore at the first heat cycle - nothing to do with port edges.
If you use a ton of castor based oil on the bore/piston , and DO NOT rev or blip the throttle for at least 5 minutes of just slow first start idle, this does not happen.
The heavy compression induced ring bore tension is reduced doing this initial break in procedure and bore streaking created by micro ring face particles being torn off - goes away.
It looks bad when you see it , but not long into normal use it will quickly wear off.

[ApolloMotoMoto]

This is something that Millenium struggled with for years and are still getting shit poked at them even now.

I have seen so much shit poked at them over this that I had decided to go to PowerSeal for their Nikaseal plating instead of Millenium.

Thankfully the engine manufacturer my team has been working with in China has accepted the need to convert from chrome plating to "Nickel Silicon Carbide" process.

So far it appears they have found a facility to shop out the plating too until I can convince them to ditch their in-house chrome process completely and setup for Ni-Sic plating like they ought to be doing...

I sent them a few Chinese language patents, I dont get whats so difficult about it ;)

The facility they are shoping out too claims they purchase the Sic powder straight from Germany, which at least sounds promissing.

Once the first batch of "nika-whatever" coating cylinders get here I'll have some pistons made up for 1.0mm chrome face rings and see what happens.

[Flettner]

.........China?

[wobbly]

The coating chemical process , can be easily adjusted technically to achieve a wide range of surface hardness values after final honing.

PowerSeal errs very much on the hard side , and thus receives big reps as though their process is " superior " because they don't suffer anywhere near as badly from initial streaking
up the bore during the first break-in heat cycle.

But in realty, of course , there is never a free lunch , and the harder honed surface immediately wears the coated ring face , and thus the longer term seal efficiency much, much faster.
Swings and roundabouts, where they sacrifice good long term ring seal , for short term perceived superior coating performance.

It is in no way superior at all - if the simple, correct break in process is adhered to, and then the so called shit plating performs perfectly in long term reality.

[ApolloMotoMoto]

The coating chemical process , can be easily adjusted technically to achieve a wide range of surface hardness values after final honing.

PowerSeal errs very much on the hard side , and thus receives big reps as though their process is " superior " because they don't suffer anywhere near as badly from initial streaking
up the bore during the first break-in heat cycle.

But in realty, of course , there is never a free lunch , and the harder honed surface immediately wears the coated ring face , and thus the longer term seal efficiency much, much faster.
Swings and roundabouts, where they sacrifice good long term ring seal , for short term perceived superior coating performance.

It is in no way superior at all - if the simple, correct break in process is adhered to, and then the so called shit plating performs perfectly in long term reality.

Thank you for sharing the empirical experience Wayne.

The process itself is simple enough to understand in principle...

But as I got deeper into what happens when you hone the cylinder, and how the coating has certain parameters that are tuned to work in conjunction with the method of honing, the ability to effectively determine the best solution quickly exceeded my pay grade.

[Condyn]

The “Millenium barcode” can be avoided, however the Platers themselves do not even know the solution. They blame wiseco rings, the customers constantly blame the honing, and Facebook warriors blame ring end gap lol.

On my last replate from millenium, I used wossner pistons/rings, however I also used copious amounts of permatex ultra slick assembly lube and spent hours with a cotton mop burnishing the nikasil points from the port edges. 1/2 way through the dyno day we did the obligatory head pull, and there was no “barcode”. Looking forward to trying this with wiseco pistons and rings to narrow down on a common denominator.

[F5 Dave]

Strange. My 50 and 496 were Millennium. Never saw an issue when pulled. Both run in on dyno. 50 a billion times.

496 was wiseco. Didn't see issues.

[husaberg]

Any kiwis got one of these lurking about I want one to make a crankcase breather for my Ducati, cough couch 4t project.
That way despite its over complicated top end with wizwams a tick tock clock pieces It will it at least have a 2t Reed Valve.


Its normally found an early Homeliite chainsaw
I thought there was one in the old mans shed but the ratio seem to be more shed than homelite Reed Valve.
there are jonseerd and old sthil
355650355651355652
These are smaller then they look

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3YLO48VzKh8

[SwePatrick]

Finally!!
I got this 'overkill' Kawasaki engine started.
It´s been a hectic week, actually for no reason.
But i wanted to start this bastard of a engine for you guys =)

It´s a Kawasaki kx250 -96 engine
Equipped with balanceshaft from Tecate.(parts from tecate but house built by me)
Lockup clutch.(built it myself)
Rotating disc intake system(built it myself, some parts from Rotax can am 250)
TM racing cylinder(ported by me, resleeved by me)

So it´s a real hybrid of things, like a frankensteins monster.

Hope it produces monster power later on also =)



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IcgNjFLAxT4

[yatasaki]

Any kiwis got one of these lurking about I want one to make a crankcase breather for my Ducati, cough couch 4t project.
That way despite its over complicated top end with wizwams a tick tock clock pieces It will it at least have a 2t Reed Valve.


Its normally found an early Homeliite chainsaw
I thought there was one in the old mans shed but the ratio seem to be more shed than homelite Reed Valve.
there are jonseerd and old sthil
355650355651355652
These are smaller then they look

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3YLO48VzKh8

I got few homelite reeds Husa, if you need in pm

[F5 Dave]

While you are cleaning out the shed, try get the T125 closer to the door.

[husaberg]

I got few homelite reeds Husa, if you need in pm

I just noticed where you are from what a beautiful spot. Thanks for the offer, I don't think there is a spot in the world further away from where I live.
I am sure there is some in the shed somewhere, But Grumph will attest it's a jungle in there.

[yatasaki]

If you need.. it's on me, who else in the planet would need 60years old chainsaw reeds to put on foulstroke

[eddie]

plus 10....


https://www.wakefieldmetals.co.nz/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/roundBar.pdf

they do tubes in f-grades that suit , but not in the size someone wanted....

thanks for the replies I will do them with a taper fit that was talked about early in the thread,has anyone here done that and what taper angle was used

[Niels Abildgaard]

A picture


https://imgur.com/cMGvxQD
https://i.imgur.com/cMGvxQD.jpeg

I plan to let exhaust side crankcase inhale as much air as it can and blow fuel/lube oil for a 15% rich mixture on underside of exhaust piston to keep it cool.
Inlet side is only allowed to inhale a third clean air.
The two crankcases are connected by a pipe and contra valve.
(Not shown yet)
The scavenge air escaping through exhaust port will be clean, cold air.
Rest will be correct lambda and stay in cylinder.
A simple oxidation catalyst will be fine.

[lohring]

Below are pictures of my piston ported, crankshaft scavenged, opposed piston engine. It used crankshafts and crankcases I had with adopter plates to a cylinder. The pipes and gears between the crankshafts aren't shown for clarity.

Lohring Miller

355665355666355671355669355670

[Niels Abildgaard]

Below are pictures of my piston ported, crankshaft scavenged, opposed piston engine. It used crankshafts and crankcases I had with adopter plates to a cylinder. The pipes and gears between the crankshafts aren't shown for clarity.

Lohring Miller


Was it a simple job to make the geartrain work satisfactory?
It has been a sore spot on quite some opposed piston engines.

[F5 Dave]

A picture


https://imgur.com/cMGvxQD
https://i.imgur.com/cMGvxQD.jpeg

I plan to let exhaust side crankcase inhale as much air as it can and blow fuel/lube oil for a 15% rich mixture on underside of exhaust piston to keep it cool.
Inlet side is only allowed to inhale a third clean air.
The two crankcases are connected by a pipe and contra valve.
(Not shown yet)
The scavenge air escaping through exhaust port will be clean, cold air.
Rest will be correct lambda and stay in cylinder.
A simple oxidation catalyst will be fine.
Is that made of wood? ECO. :cool:

[Flettner]

Here is one in actual hardware. Waiting on time/money and interest to finish. (My interest is elsewhere pleasantly)
https://youtube.com/shorts/HGg_mI9OKjI?feature=shared

[Jan Van Hamme]

thanks for the replies I will do them with a taper fit that was talked about early in the thread,has anyone here done that and what taper angle was used

Morsecone

355673

Aluminium sleeve material:

4032-T651
4032-T6
6061-T651
6061-T6

Cast iron sleeve material:

EN-GJV-500 (5.2301 vermicular cast iron)
EN-GJV-450 (5.2201 vermicular cast iron)
EN-GJL-300 (GG30 lamellar cast iron)

Some are easier to find than others.

[Niels Abildgaard]

Is that made of wood? ECO. :cool:

Scrapped teak furniture.
Lubricated for life

[husaberg]

thanks for the replies I will do them with a taper fit that was talked about early in the thread,has anyone here done that and what taper angle was used

I think Jan Thiel mentioned a taper or a press fit on the Jamathi but in Steel?
I will see if I can find it.


turns out I can

In 1974 I made a conical sleeve, Morse cone. It was very easy to fit and remove, worked great!!!
No welding needed, just a light press fit. I pressed it in about 2mm.
I got the sleeve material from MAHLE, so I was sure it could be plated... MAHLE 138
Once I had to make a cylinder in a hurry, no time to get it plated.
So I bought a plated Kreidler cylinder, and made a conical sleeve out of it...
It gave good power, and won a lot of races!!
First I made it without aux ports: insufficient power....
As it was easily removable I took it out and added aux ports: +2.5 HP...
Less than 1 hours work, my client was very happy, and won a Dutch NMB championship with it.

Actually reading it I am not sure what the material is but suspect it was aluminium ... but I know that Frits has it in his cabinet. so is it Aluminium??

[Jan Van Hamme]

I think Jan Thiel mentioned a taper or a press fit on the Jamathi but in Steel?
I will see if I can find it.


turns out I can


Actually reading it I am not sure what the material is but suspect it was aluminium ... but I know that Frits has it in his cabinet. so is it Aluminium??

It is because of that specific message from Jan Thiel on this forum that I also want to do it that way.
Mahle138 is AlSi18CuMgNi
I can't find it to buy.

[Frits Overmars]

I think Jan Thiel mentioned a taper or a press fit on the Jamathi but in Steel?
Actually reading it I am not sure what the material is but suspect it was aluminium ... but I know that Frits has it in his cabinet. so is it Aluminium??Yup. Aluminium hard-chromed conical sleeve in aluminium cylinder casting.
355679355678355677

[husaberg]

It is because of that specific message from Jan Thiel on this forum that I also want to do it that way.
Mahle138 is AlSi18CuMgNi
I can't find it to buy.
A390 looks pretty close?
https://www.matweb.com/search/datasheet.aspx?matguid=749e09f1cc2b45fc98213c6ca96 8f72c
Although it seems to heaps more copper?
4032 is close but lower Si
and available in barstock Je use it for some pistons.
https://auto.jepistons.com/je-auto-blog/2618-vs-4032-piston-material-differences/



Yup. Aluminium hard-chromed conical sleeve in aluminium cylinder casting.
355679355678355677

cheers

[lohring]

The gear train. The idea for an RC boat was to drive a propeller from each crankshaft. Opposite rotation propellers eliminate torque problems.

Lohring Miller

355680

[Niels Abildgaard]

The gear train. The idea for an RC boat was to drive a propeller from each crankshaft. Opposite rotation propellers eliminate torque problems.

Lohring Miller

355680

This can be tried with two standard engines united by a new common cylinderhead

https://i.imgur.com/hzIW9WL.jpg

[jamathi]

thanks for the replies I will do them with a taper fit that was talked about early in the thread,has anyone here done that and what taper angle was used

Mahle 138 aluminium was used.
And a MORSE cone
Worked great!!!

[jamathi]

A390 looks pretty close?
https://www.matweb.com/search/datasheet.aspx?matguid=749e09f1cc2b45fc98213c6ca96 8f72c
Although it seems to heaps more copper?
4032 is close but lower Si
and available in barstock Je use it for some pistons.
https://auto.jepistons.com/je-auto-blog/2618-vs-4032-piston-material-differences/




cheers

I just ordered a bar of Mahle 138, no problem, in 1973

[Jan Van Hamme]

deleted my double post

[Jan Van Hamme]

I just ordered a bar of Mahle 138, no problem, in 1973

When I read your post about the morse cone sleeve at the time, I thought and think it was a brilliant idea.
So looking for Mahle 138. Not found so far.
Then look for other types of aluminium.
Somewhere I once read from Lozza Stolks that aluminium 4032-T6 is a good material for making a sleeve and having it nicasil plated.
Looking for 4032-T6. Not found so far.

My Yamaha RD125LC has a factory cast iron bushing in the aluminium.
So I tought I would make a morse cone into the cast iron cylinder and place a cast iron bushing in it.
Axially it will hardly pressed in there, of course just as firmly.

Unless someone has a bar or tube Mahle138 or 4032-T651 or -T6 available in Belgium or the surrounding area, I am thinking of taking the GG30 route.

Is dat verstandig of blijf ik daar beter van weg?

If I drill a conventional sleeve to a larger bore after wear, I have to rebalance the cranckshaft every time because of an larger piston.
To prevent that,I could have the cast iron bushing nicasilized.
However, cast iron on cast iron has good emergency running properties.
Hence the idea to use a replaceable cast iron morse cone bushing that can accommodate the original piston diameter every time.

[husaberg]

When I read your post about the morse cone sleeve at the time, I thought and think it was a brilliant idea.
So looking for Mahle 138. Not found so far.
Then look for other types of aluminium.
Somewhere I once read from Lozza Stolks that aluminium 4032-T6 is a good material for making a sleeve and having it nicasil plated.
Looking for 4032-T6. Not found so far.

My Yamaha RD125LC has a factory cast iron bushing in the aluminium.
So I tought I would make a morse cone into the cast iron cylinder and place a cast iron bushing in it.
Axially it will hardly pressed in there, of course just as firmly.

Unless someone has a bar or tube Mahle138 or 4032-T651 or -T6 available in Belgium or the surrounding area, I am thinking of taking the GG30 route.

Is dat verstandig of blijf ik daar beter van weg?

If I drill a conventional sleeve to a larger bore after wear, I have to rebalance the crankshaft every time because of an larger piston.
To prevent that,I could have the cast iron bushing nicasilized.
However, cast iron on cast iron has good emergency running properties.
Hence the idea to use a replaceable cast iron morse cone bushing that can accommodate the original piston diameter every time.

As far as i know 4032 is freely available? at least here anyway dont worry about the temper you can do that yourself.

As far as I know most people making pistons will be using 4032 at least 25% of the time.

In France if it helps it will be called A-S12UGN.

its def in Europe

https://www.leichtmetall.eu/en/products/en-aw-4032

[TZ350]

.
Promised a friend I would gather up all my Suzuki RG50 rotary valve conversion posts into one place.



Yes. It is also where the ignition trigger gets installed.

355037 355040 355038 355041 355039

This is how I went about it.
I used all the rotary valve parts from a Suzuki GP125 and flywheel.
1) Salvage the crankshaft hub from an old flywheel.
2) Cut the thread off the end of the crankshaft.
3) Drill and tap the crankshaft for a M5 screw.
4) Machine the hub and crank flush. Then machine 0.005" five thou off the end of the crank to give some crush on the hub. You only just want it gently squeezed, just enough to hold it securely but easy to get off again.
5) Make a spacer with about 0.010" ten thou clearance between the hub and the rotary valve driving dog.
6) Insert a 2-3mm thick "O" ring in the face of the spacer to give it some crush on the RV driving dog.
7) The hub is keyed to the crankshaft. Screw a M3 dome head into the hub for the ignition trigger at the appropriate timing position.
8) Crush the dome head in a vice to collapse the Philips star. You need to do this so you don't get two ignition pulses close together. One from each side of the Philips dome head screw.
9) At TDC drill a 5mm hole in the crank shaft for the RV driving dog's driving pin. 5mm fitted the key way in my Suzuki RV driving dog. I cut an old drill bit down to use for the pin.
10) Used a short piece of hose and two hose clips to secure the carburetor to the inlet stub. I put a larger "O" ring inside the hose to prevent metal to metal vibration contact between the carb and stub.


RG50 cylinder with the original inlet tract sealed up with Kneed-It putty. Also for the RV, the left side case was filled up with Kneed-It too before milling it flat for the rotary valve and cover.

355034 355035


.

I have been playing with my rotary valve converted Suzuki RG50's inlet timing. Rotary valve timing was changed and ignition and jetting optimised for each run. Everything else the same.

355021 355022 355023

Red line inlet timing, opens 135 btdc closes 75 atdc. Blue line inlet timing, opens 145 btdc closes 85 atdc. So more is not always better.


My previous limited experience with a two stroke and Nitro on the dyno. Is that, it was good for additional low down torque and for filling in the hole just before getting up on the pipe. Once the engine started coming anywhere near maximum torque it was best to stop adding nitro. It sure looked like it would give the bike some extra lift coming out of corners. A real power band widener. It would be interesting to adjust the engines compression/ignition properly for Nitro. Maybe I will try it one day.


Yes, pay to check.



Our preference is a 12V charging stator/rotor, 12V rectifier/regulator and capacitor (no battery) for a push and go system.

354768

Total loss, the 5 Amp hour battery lasts me the whole day.

Some times a charging system is not possible or practicable so we run total loss. As an experiment I connected the 18Volt 5 amp hour Ryobi battery to the car heater electric water pump that we use on our bikes. It pumped water for two hours before I got bored and went to lunch. With the 18V battery I had to use a 24V temperature gauge. The gauge switches the pump on/off and is very good at keeping the coolant temperature at its pre set target value of 45 deg C. 40 made the most power but 50 carburetted much better. So 45-48 it is. With these cheep Chinese switchable temperature gauges we found we can keep the coolant temperature in a very tight range.


.
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Stroked crank, pin hole welded and re machined for 45mm stroke (thanks Flettner).

This is to go with a big bore kit to make an F4 95cc, Suzuki RG50 engine with a rotary valve conversion.

To get close to 50% ballance factor I needed to make the counter weight heavier.

Managed that by removing a small amount of material on the crank pin side.

It is always a worry drilling holes here as it may loosen the crank pin. Anyway I kept them as shallow as possible and crossed my fingers for luck.


The insert is my best interpretation of a venturi. The lead convergent cone is aerofoil shaped. The constriction is 24mm and the tail is an energy recovering divergent cone. Like the X section of an aero wing.

The insert is glued and pressed in. It can't be removed from the carb body without wrecking the carb.

The insert is about 40mm long and the inlet tract to the rotary valve is about 68mm. The carb was enlarged in the area of the main jet to reduce the disruption to the airflow by the slide, Jet nozzle and needle.

The part of the bell mouth that was there for the air filter rubber boot, was cut off.

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This class legal 24mm OKO that has been modified, gives 94% of the flow of a genuine standard 28mm Keihin.

It is probably time to do away with the 24mm carb rule. No other F4 bike has that restriction.


350996

More adventures with the Suzuki RG50

350995

Green line was the original piston port cylinder. Red line after it was converted to rotary valve and the Blue line is RV with a smaller 24mm carb.

The smaller carb Blue line has a strange dip in it. Not sure what that means but it looks like something that has become more pronounced as we have progressed.

The take away looks to be that the smaller carb and inlet tract better suit the rotary valve timing.


.
350938

Ok. Got the rotary valve Suzuki RG50 running tonight.

Blue line is the original piston port/reed setup. Red line is the exact same cylinder on the rotary valve bottom end, no other changes to ignition or jetting at this point.

I only managed one run before the ignition trigger fell off. Sort that tomorrow night.

350939

The RV seems to rev way past the old piston port setup. Looks like the RV setup needs different jetting and maybe timing compared to the old piston port/reed engine.

Looking forward to doing some tuning tomorrow night. Very excited now that it actually runs.


.

350881

Ok I need some help. I am hoping for some ball park general advice from the Free Tec 50 guys. What sort of rotary valve timing do they use. 24mm carb, 14,000 peak rpm. Thanks.... :)


350860

Completed my Suzuki RG50 with what was originally a piston port/case reed inlet with its now new rotary valve conversion.

Next move is to put it all together with the cylinder from my current RG50 engine so that I can compare before and after conversion dyno runs.


.
350808

Outer rotary valve cover and ignition trigger.


.

I am pretty lazy and did not want to dick around with dial gauges to center the rotary table and setup the case on center. So I tapered a length of 1" bright and used the taper to force the job on center.

350789 Centering the Rotary Table with the tapered round bar.

350787 Centering the crankcase half.

350790 Starting to cut the pocket. Depth and inner and outer diameters are critical.

350788 Finished the first half. Depths and diameters worked out perfectly. Now to get the cover sorted.

Suzuki RG50 with a GP125 rotary valve assembly. Maybe it will end up a 50 or I could make a 69cc engine and Turbo Charge it. Such exciting possibilities.


.
Team ESE exploring the possibility of fitting a Suzuki GP125 rotary valve assembly to a Suzuki RG50.

Also in the works is a small turbocharger with a much lighter bespoke 6061 aluminum exhaust turbine housing for turbocharging a 70cc two stroke. Aluminum should be Ok for the turbine housing as the exhaust gas is much cooler on a two stroke than a four stroke. We also want to make bespoke turbine housings so we can get the A/R ratio more suited to the capacity of the engine.

A rotary valve converted RG50 with an over bored turbocharged 70cc water cooled cylinder. With the turbo we plan on a draw through carb, but I am also tempted to fuel inject it directly into the turbo intake or maybe just after the turbo on the discharge side.

350769

[lohring]

This is the way my partner joined two standard engines. He built it as an inline twin, but it could be built as a horizontally opposed twin with either alternate or simultaneous firing.

Lohring Miller

355685355686

[Jan Van Hamme]

As far as i know 4032 is freely available? at least here anyway dont worry about the temper you can do that yourself.

As far as I know most people making pistons will be using 4032 at least 25% of the time.

In France if it helps it will be called A-S12UGN.

its def in Europe

https://www.leichtmetall.eu/en/products/en-aw-4032

Thank you very much.
I will contact them and hope they want to sell to a non-professional customer.

[ken seeber]

We used to use A390 at Orbital.........many cast pistons are made using this or similar.....T6 of course.

[flyonly]

.
Promised a friend I would gather up all my Suzuki RG50 rotary valve conversion posts into one place.

What the rotary valve housing and cover plate of a Suzuki also?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TZ350]

What the rotary valve housing and cover plate of a Suzuki also?

Yes, used all the rotary valve parts from a Suzuki GP125. GP100 is much the same. But milder inlet timing and 22mm carb instead of 24.

[F5 Dave]

I was considering an RG100 Vtwin in an RS when I was playing with spare cases.

[SwePatrick]

I´m fairly new to this rotary intake disc program, so do not kill me =)
I´m about to start adjusting this thing, but i stumbled into some small issues.

Have a look =)


https://youtu.be/LP5s3Gcr1kY?si=C9kP57jAFlsuf6B0

[jato]

Hi all, I'm needing quite a bit of mallory metal - 5/8 diameter , pos 700mm of it. any favorite suppliers in nz? Au or the US are the candidates at the mo...

[Niels Abildgaard]

Hi all, I'm needing quite a bit of mallory metal - 5/8 diameter , pos 700mm of it. any favorite suppliers in nz? Au or the US are the candidates at the mo...

Scrapped endmills are made from tungsten carbide and cobolt with a density of plus 15 gr/cc.
Diameters 16 and 20 mm are industry standard
It is easily parted with wire sparking and not so easy with diamond disc.
Scrap price around 14$ per kg.

[Condyn]

Is there any information available on machining the last bit of baffle cone on this thread? My quick search is coming up empty.
I am wondering about the purpose as I see it from time to time. Is this simply to transition into the nozzle nicely? Any examples?

[husaberg]

llllllll;;;
The venturi nozzle is there to do one thing - the stinger is a resonant length tube and strong pressure gradients leap up and down it off atma.
When a strong negative sign wave launches down the stinger it can, and does, destroy some of the positive pressure wave that ultimately stuffs the cylinder
with the A/F sitting in the Ex duct, as the piston approaches Ex closure.
Adding a tapering cone after the true pressure bleed venturi helps to prevent this bad wave affliction from affecting the "in pipe "action.
Was invented by Helmut Fath - my hero - for the Honda factory team that ran Freddy in 250/500 the same year, it had one stinger 450 long, and one 150 long.
The new nozzle invention, took away the length effect of these disparate stingers, making tuning each much easier - and closer .
Thus using a nozzle in the belly is not going to have enough effect on this low intensity zone to make much difference.
BUT, being a 2 stroke it will probably work superbly, just to piss me off.
The exhaust exit "nozzle" was used first by Helmut Fath ( my hero ) when tuning for Honda where their V twin 250 had one stinger 150 long the other 450 long.
I have tested all manner of variations and the best is around 10mm of parallel nozzle and then 10mm of divergence to a stinger around 1.5mm bigger.
This reduces the effect of the waves bouncing up and down the stinger off atmosphere disrupting the rear cone waves.

The pipe vol/engine cc field in the pipe screen was added by Neels to the program when Frits noted that he had calculated this for the RSA - maybe he can elaborate on the relationship.
Note also that there is two fields for the length to end of header and length to end of diffuser.
I got Neels to add this as so few pipe designs are "correct" and its a pain to calculate all the time.The header end should be 30 to 32% and the diffuser should be 64 to 68%

TeeZee - really glad that you are looking at the STA numbers and realising that the sim is telling you what is needed - or not in many cases.
Getting all the elements of a design in harmony is what makes big power numbers.
I would try making the divergent header nozzle longer - very short ones can create shock waves and reduce the energy available to do positive "work" in the pipe.

Another good source for big ends is Thompson - I use these in KT100 crank rebuilds as the needles are already graded.
The rear cone nozzle in the old Honda manual is well out of date.
A later version was developed by Helmut Fath and was first used on Fast Freddys 250 where one stinger was 150 long the other was 450 long.
This better design has a short 10mm "nozzle" of the correct size to create the pressure restriction, then a short taper, up to a stinger tube approx 2mm bigger in diameter.
The bigger stinger and the reverse taper basically remove this resonant tube from the equation, and the stinger length becomes irrelevant.
Under normal conditions the wave action bouncing up and down the stinger ,off the open end to atmosphere, creates varying bad effects on the reverse cone waves.
The pic shows a section of one for F3 - 400.
Rear cone welds onto LH side, stinger pushes into RH side and welded as well.
Another side effect is that there is no welding ( dags) to affect the flow where the rear cone is attached to the tube.
.

355696

if you machine sections of the cone its far easier to get it the correct size, especially if you are dealing with the tiny glow engine

[Condyn]

Thanks Husa!

[wobbly]

The latest iteration of the nozzle is to make it about its diameter in parallel length , then a simple 45* chamfer on the exit out to the stinger ID.
I have used up to 3mm diameter difference , depending upon what tube is available.

[SwePatrick]

Everyday is a good day, only when it´s bad, it´s bad =)
Or, it was running great until it wasn´t....

Sunday, video, enjoy! =)


https://youtu.be/zP-2xBP5DWI?si=gRsLiEHTaDltOCd9

[husaberg]

Any kiwis got one of these lurking about I want one to make a crankcase breather for my Ducati, cough couch 4t project.
That way despite its over complicated top end with wizwams a tick tock clock pieces It will it at least have a 2t Reed Valve.


Its normally found an early Homeliite chainsaw
I thought there was one in the old mans shed but the ratio seem to be more shed than homelite Reed Valve.
there are jonseerd and old sthil
355650355651355652
These are smaller then they look

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3YLO48VzKh8


I found what has this Reedcage these days the OS GT33 which by the looks of it is a 33cc RC aircraft engine.

https://ultimatehobbies.com.au/products/os-engines-reed-valve-assembly-gt33

[JdG]

https://youtu.be/8Kp108x4tQA?feature=shared

Interesting video. Maybe Frits, Wobbly, Jan, or someone else that is really into this stuff will have some remarks. But all in all I think it’s a quite good explanation of different cylinder bore coatings.


Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk

[wobbly]

Kawasaki developed the Electrosil process that is essentially identical to the high voltage plasma spray technique, mid last century.
It was a high silicone wire wrapped around a mandrel, inserted into the bore and zapped with a trillion volts.
I believe its still an aftermarket option for recoating all alloy bores to this day.

As for the impact of CO2 emissions on the environment - depends upon your ideological tin foil hat approach.
CO2 has increased from 0.03% to 0.04% in the environment over the last two decades, sufficient to wreak the planet , yea right.
And of course dont mention that the increased CO2 density has increased plant growth rates by 15% over the same period, as then you have a conspiracy theory instantly hanging over you.

Our Cindy believing that NZ banning oil and gas licenses was going to " save the whales " but then concurrently importing shit coal from Malaysia to help power EV cars, when China is now
building over 200 coal fired power plants is about as far into the sand as you can bury your head.
No more politics.

[pete376403]

I believe that alusil was used for the flat 6 chev Corvair engine back in the 60's.

[Flettner]

Kawasaki developed the Electrosil process that is essentially identical to the high voltage plasma spray technique, mid last century.
It was a high silicone wire wrapped around a mandrel, inserted into the bore and zapped with a trillion volts.
I believe its still an aftermarket option for recoating all alloy bores to this day.

As for the impact of CO2 emissions on the environment - depends upon your ideological tin foil hat approach.
CO2 has increased from 0.03% to 0.04% in the environment over the last two decades, sufficient to wreak the planet , yea right.
And of course dont mention that the increased CO2 density has increased plant growth rates by 15% over the same period, as then you have a conspiracy theory instantly hanging over you.

Our Cindy believing that NZ banning oil and gas licenses was going to " save the whales " but then concurrently importing shit coal from Malaysia to help power EV cars, when China is now
building over 200 coal fired power plants is about as far into the sand as you can bury your head.
No more politics.

Wobbly, stay off the internet, it's bad for your mental health 😁

[wobbly]

Aint that dead true Flett.

[JanBros]

when making angles in cones, is it more important to keep the angles of the cones the same, or the diameter at the angle, as keeping both is not possible.
as an example, this cone will get a 45° angle in the middle (I know 45° is way too much, but the bigger the angle the clearer it is):

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/scl/fi/5a743xxgg9eqidbl9h4ur/recht.png?rlkey=62wvg04wdwaze4r62fulw30e9&st=rffxfjvn&dl=0

keeping the diameter of 30 at the angle gives these angles :
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/scl/fi/o5eygatffr23ad8hxztzx/45-dia.png?rlkey=rwwicmu345x7ox3szgfuef6o5&st=8wc6oy0o&dl=0

when keeping the angles at 11.42°, the diameter get's bigger, and the lenghts of both parts changes (for making an angle in a cone this does not matter as the total length stays the same, but when making an angle between for example the last header-part and the first diffuser-part, it changes the length of both) :
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/scl/fi/sp24m81gsgzkkfnwquoud/45-angle.png?rlkey=842r3yfo32h7lpffn0tu6w1c2&st=8n71g3s5&dl=0

so who does what ? the pipes for my MX-moped are for the biggest part curves so it matters more than on straight pipes with just a few tight curves :
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/scl/fi/s4xc8gq3n25u8i48vptvi/exh.png?rlkey=px3x6svz64d0thvdwmli9d6us&st=p6y2tj21&dl=0

[wobbly]

I have been doing this in SolidWorks for over 25 years.
When joining two different angled cones at their ends , you extend the cone length and create the cut passing thru the real end center points.
Thus one side of each cut is shorter and smaller in diameter , the other side is longer and larger in diameter, but the centerline length says constant.

Here I have joined two 2mm thick cones using this method, both cuts are 5* , and there is no discernable difference in the mating diameters at all.
Ive done this literally hundreds of times , and never had any issues with the cones not mating exactly.

The only other trick to doing it in CAD is to create the cones as a surface rotation that are driven by the neutral axis diameters ie the cones ID plus one material thickness.
Thus when this surface with an angle cut is unrolled into a pattern , you do not have two distinct edges due to the angled material thickness.
If you do dont do this you cannot simply remove one of the lines for the laser to follow , as neither represent the true angled cut shape.

[41juergen]

maybe something for Wobbly: when optimizing the intake lenght in EngMod, for what RPM do I need to go, max. torque, max power or somthing in between?
cheers
Juergen

[JanBros]

I have been doing this in SolidWorks for over 25 years.
When joining two different angled cones at their ends , you extend the cone length and create the cut passing thru the real end center points.
Thus one side of each cut is shorter and smaller in diameter , the other side is longer and larger in diameter, but the centerline length says constant.

Here I have joined two 2mm thick cones using this method, both cuts are 5* , and there is no discernable difference in the mating diameters at all.
Ive done this literally hundreds of times , and never had any issues with the cones not mating exactly.


so keeping the angles is the way to go, tnx

[wobbly]

Extending the cones past the end point and then cutting across the actual center point is the real trick.

[wobbly]

Mr41, it depends upon what the application is , but generally with a gear set you tune between peak torque and gearchange rpm.
There is a spread of about 2000 rpm where this effect is working more or less.
The rpm where the two curves cross at a pressure ratio of 1 is the actual perfect tune point, it reduces in effect each side of this.
If you have many corners where you need alot of front side drive, then making the intake tuned rpm lower = longer if it will fit in, can help offset a pipe made to rev as well.
Swings and roundabouts - no free lunch, if translating.

[41juergen]

Thank's a lot Wob, will see how I can manage that with my 3MA project what has limited space down the engine..

[Rudex]

I found in facebook interesting case flow. https://www.facebook.com/groups/671081149638729/permalink/9095807130499380/

The coments from Jan
I] Jan Thiel:
Should have been tried on the RSA.... Instead they tried a 'Honda type' exhaust port: 2 HP less!!! Doing this we might have reached 60 HP........[/I]

Anyone have more pictures?.

355756355757355758355759355760355761

[SwePatrick]

First small steps of dynoing my 'molested' kx250 engine, i hope there is more lurking, as i have only made 6 pulls so far.
5th made the most so far. 60.4hp to the wheel with european standards, almost no weather correction.
Aiming for about 63hp with E85, might be more, but let´s just set the 'goals' low at this point.
It was a succesful dynoday as all my mods actually held up, some other small issues occured ofcourse =)

Later on i will run methanol.



https://youtu.be/y23B1pVLNG8?si=_VYD1xz6lhCxF_LI

[koba]

I happened upon this recently, it was pretty cool to see one for real.

Aprilia RSW125

355803
355804
355805
355806

[TZ350]

First small steps of dynoing my 'molested' kx250 engine, i hope there is more lurking, as i have only made 6 pulls so far.
5th made the most so far. 60.4hp to the wheel with european standards, almost no weather correction.
Aiming for about 63hp with E85, might be more, but let´s just set the 'goals' low at this point.
It was a succesful dynoday as all my mods actually held up, some other small issues occured ofcourse =)
Later on i will run methanol.

https://youtu.be/y23B1pVLNG8?si=_VYD1xz6lhCxF_LI

60 RWHP at something like 6,500 RPM is a fantastic result for the KX250. SwePatrick has me reconsidering what I am doing with my own 250 single.

355808 355809

I have 42 RWHP at 9,500 RPM. To little power at to many RPM.

Back to the drawing board.

[wobbly]

TeeZee, very wrong. Your rpm and powerband is perfectly suited to the engine configuration you have.
And running E85 makes the results shown not even remotely comparable to what you are doing.
Plus harking back to my real shit fight with Patrick about converting RWHP to EngMod crank power - where he was absolutely adamant i was spouting garbage, he is now suddenly quoting exactly , and completely
agreeing with my and Neels assessment of 12.5 to 15% depending upon if its a Dynojet or not.
Everything with a grain of salt.

[Pursang]

The subject of 3 into 1 pipes comes up now and then. This is someones approach to the task.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/TFXgXjvbxJc

[TZ350]

.
355842 355843 355844

Refreshing the Suzuki GP110 Bucket Racer for the new season.

Piston kissing the head perfectly. Moths have been nibbling the piston, Very long rod (RD400), crank webs machined back for reduced windage on the rod and maximum crankcase volume.

After untold racing miles the condition of the motor is pretty good.

[Wos]

.
355842 355843 355844

Refreshing the Suzuki GP110 Bucket Racer for the new season.

Piston kissing the head perfectly. Moths have been nibbling the piston, Very long rod (RD400), crank webs machined back for reduced windage on the rod and maximum crankcase volume.

After untold racing miles the condition of the motor is pretty good.

Why do the Moths have that hunger?🤣🙈

Are there mixture / end gases in squish gap trapped?

I do always a print with solder to have a picture if quish is piston parallel or opening a little bit...

To avoid trapping this dammed Aluminium Moths😮🤣

Grüße Wolfgang

[Peljhan]

Extending the cones past the end point and then cutting across the actual center point is the real trick.

Wobbly, do you have any advice or suggestion how to make complete exhaust in solidworks. I made myself an assembly with cones as parts and each cone has basic sketch for revolve operation that also has dimensions inside for where the seam weld will be, end cut and start diameter. End diameter is than expressed as grey dimension which is used as starting diameter in next cone with equation-reference and next cone also has same angle cut as last cone has.
Than I connected everything into excel, so I "just" change dimensions in excel and viola, I have exhaust as imagined with a bit of excel tweaking. Only downside from here is that I have to click refresh so many times as many cones I have.

Problem is, one exhaust funcitons great. I make than pack and go for new exhaust. Change the dimensions in excel as desired, but, all references don't get refreshed. Usually they are all there. If I click on sketch, all equations and references are there, but not working. I have to manually click the equation and just copy it for nothing and close and than it works from there on. Sometimes some cones go bananas when they are flipped inside out as socks, I also have to repair those manually.
Problem is, 20 section exhaust has about 100 equations and to do that manually I would be faster to calculate exhaust with cone layout and print it with needle printer on paper as I did 15 years ago :rolleyes:

Should I do something differently, maybe complete exhaust made just with surfaces. Any guides would be great. Thanks.

[TZ350]

Why do the Moths have that hunger?🤣🙈 Are there mixture / end gases in squish gap trapped? I do always a print with solder to have a picture if quish is piston parallel or opening a little bit... To avoid trapping this dammed Aluminium Moths😮🤣 Grüße Wolfgang

Yes, I think you are completely right. I will try to match the curvature of the squish so it more accurately matches the piston crown.

[Wos]

Yes, I think you are completely right. I will try to match the curvature of the squish so it more accurately matches the piston crown.

I do machine squish with lathe first as a straight cause have no cnc and then with sanding paper to match radius of piston perfectly

Control you can do with paint from permanent marker... painting both surfaces and against each other rotating...later when completed with solder

Polish piston crow to mirror finish is reflecting heat...avoids overheating of piston

Polished squish area i do too ...but keeping corner razor sharp 😉

Good luck next racing season to you :)

Wolfgang

[lodgernz]

Yes, I think you are completely right. I will try to match the curvature of the squish so it more accurately matches the piston crown.

Rob, I gave up long ago trying to match the squish curvature with that of the piston crown.
I always turn a straight squish band on the piston at such an angle that the resulting straight piston squish band is a bit wider than that of the head squish band (which for me is alwaysw 50% of bore area).
That way it's possible to get identical squish angles, in fact I don't change the lathe settings between the two cuts (piston and head insert). Means going backwards on one of them but it works.

[Condyn]

What is the best way to determine if a carburetor is the perfect size?

Last year on the dyno we went from 41mm mikuni tmx to 50mm flat slides with mechanical pj. We gained a good amount of power with this change, as well as better ET at the track, so naturally I am curious about trying a 52mm flatslide next. They cost a small fortune, and I do not want to bore the 50’s because it could backfire (pun). In the other hand, maybe the 50’s are already too big, and I’d be better off with something between 41 and 50….

[Frits Overmars]

What is the best way to determine if a carburetor is the perfect size?Rule of thumb: Carb diameter = square root of (cylinder capacity x rpm of maximum power / 900 ).
For engines with a rotary inlet this rule of thumb is fairly correct;
engines with a reed valve inlet can adjust their inlet timing themselves and are therefore less demanding in terms of diameter.

[skako]

Rule of thumb: Carb diameter = square root of (cylinder capacity x rpm of maximum power / 900 ).
For engines with a rotary inlet this rule of thumb is fairly correct;
engines with a reed valve inlet can adjust their inlet timing themselves and are therefore less demanding in terms of diameter.

Hello Frits,
From this formula we can then arrive at the required intake roto-port cross-section determined by Angle_Area [mm°2]

AA= Vc x RPM x 3.14 x Duration° / ( 4 x 900 ) [ mm°2]

[Condyn]

Rule of thumb: Carb diameter = square root of (cylinder capacity x rpm of maximum power / 900 ).
For engines with a rotary inlet this rule of thumb is fairly correct;
engines with a reed valve inlet can adjust their inlet timing themselves and are therefore less demanding in terms of diameter.

Hello Frits, Thank you very much.

[Wos]

Rotax 124 after 4 hours of first testings...clean burn.. green technology ;) squish parallel..0.7 mm

Thanks to wob...frits...all together!:drinknsin:clap:

[Frank S.]

Watch out Wolfgang, now they have your fingerprints :cool:

[SwePatrick]

Early release!
I started dynoed my Kawasaki Overkill engine last weekend, and had to quit.
So this time then, is it actually producing any steam?

You betcha it did! :D :D :D

67.5 whp almost 60Nm
74.4 crank hp 10% losses
79.41 crank hp 15% losses


Pop on over to Youtube and have a look:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xz3RzMEezas


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xz3RzMEezas

[lodgernz]

Plus harking back to my real shit fight with Patrick about converting RWHP to EngMod crank power - where he was absolutely adamant i was spouting garbage, he is now suddenly quoting exactly , and completely
agreeing with my and Neels assessment of 12.5 to 15% depending upon if its a Dynojet or not.
Everything with a grain of salt.

Wobbly, Are these figues of 12.5% to 15% that you quote, the estimated loss between crank and wheel HP on an inertia dyno?

I seem to remember that Frits long ago posted a quite detailed analysis of this and concluded that the loss would be about 10%, including tyre/roller friction loss.

Are we talking about the same thing or have I misunderstood?

[JanBros]

just wanted to share a new method of calculating exhausts. for a couple of years I've been using 2 very different pipes that give almost the same poweroutput. tried to make better pipes but not luch luck so far. So I thought : the best pipe must lie somewhere in between them. and so I calculated a pipe which has exactly the average dimensions of both . blue pipe = R, green pipe = GY, Average pipe = pink

https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/album.php?albumid=5192&attachmentid=355878https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=355880&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1741524510
(https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=355880&d=1741525580)
and the result :

https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/album.php?albumid=5192&attachmentid=355878https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=355881&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1741524510
(https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=355881&d=1741525798)
:cool:
also made an experimental pipe. in the past I used a program of Coker racing to calculate exhausts, and that seemed to work also, but there was something funny about the diameters with that one : as you lower the rpm's, the pipe became fatter which is contrary imho. So I made a pipe using Coker length's and FOS diameters, and included a reverse-cone baffle (here compared to the AVG pipe) :
355883
and the result is also good :
355882

[Frits Overmars]

....harking back to my real shit fight with Patrick about converting RWHP to EngMod crank power - where he was absolutely adamant i was spouting garbage, he is now suddenly quoting exactly , and completely agreeing with my and Neels assessment of 12.5 to 15% depending upon if its a Dynojet or not.

Wobbly, Are these figues of 12.5% to 15% that you quote, the estimated loss between crank and wheel HP on an inertia dyno?
I seem to remember that Frits long ago posted a quite detailed analysis of this and concluded that the loss would be about 10%, including tyre/roller friction loss.As you say, it's long ago.
First let's take a look at Wobblys "if it's a Dynojet or not". I ran comparative tests at Ten Kate with my hard- and software connected to their Dynojet, with their world championship-winning superbike driving it, so we obtained simultaneous measurements.
The Dynojet software was found to exaggerate by 11%. If you measure 100hp on the drum, Dynojet will say you have 111hp.
It's one way to make the customers happy, I suppose...

A set of well-lubricated straight-cut gears gives about 2,5% transmission loss and a well-lubricated chain transmission does about the same. So from the crankshaft to the clutch & gearbox input shaft, to the gearbox exit shaft, to the rear wheel, you have three times this 2,5% loss. 97,5% of the 100% crankshaft power arrives at the gearbox. 97,5% of those 97,5% exits the gearbox, and 97,5% of 97,5% of 97,5% arrives at the rear wheel. That's 92,7%.

Now the calculation becomes less straightforward. The tyre must be pressed against the dyno drum with a certain force or it will slip. This force deforms the tyre which consequently gets hot, which means a power loss.
How large this deformation and this loss are, depends on the weight of the person sitting on the machine, on the drum diameter, and on the tyre pressure.
And because the tyre gets hotter, the tyre pressure increases during the dyno run. By how much? God only knows, and I haven't got his mobile number.

With at least 3 bar tyre pressure and a drum of at least 400 mm diameter there may be somewhere between 5% and 10% power loss between rear wheel and drum. So the drum is accelerated with something between 83% and 88% of the crankshaft power.

In all, while a rear wheel dyno may be nice to check if the engine is still in good shape, it is unsuitable for development work, in my opinion.

I even prefer to keep the transmission chain out of the measuring setup. I remember Jan Thiel sitting comfortably behind the double glazing of the Garelli dyno cell and me kneeling beside the engine with an oil squirt in my hand. A squirt of oil on the chain immediately produced an extra 1 hp.

Some track marshals also have experience in that area. I once saw a broken chain left in the middle of the track. The marshal who quickly tried to remove it with his bare hands will never forget it....

[F5 Dave]

So the take away message is; lube your chain at the race meeting .

[Frits Overmars]

So the take away message is; lube your chain at the race meeting .Yup. Just make sure the chain doesn't lube the tyre.

[lodgernz]

As you say, it's long ago.
A set of well-lubricated straight-cut gears gives about 2,5% transmission loss and a well-lubricated chain transmission does about the same. So from the crankshaft to the clutch & gearbox input shaft, to the gearbox exit shaft, to the rear wheel, you have three times this 2,5% loss. 97,5% of the 100% crankshaft power arrives at the gearbox. 97,5% of those 97,5% exits the gearbox, and 97,5% of 97,5% of 97,5% arrives at the rear wheel. That's 92,7%.
.

Thank you Frits. That's what I was hoping for.

So, a brake dyno connected directly to the gearbox output shaft (no chain), should measure 97.5 * 97.5% = 95% of crank power.
And, I suspect, far more realistically than an inertia dyno.

[husaberg]

I seem to remember Jan saying there was a measurable difference. Between a primary drive output from the center vs one from the side.
I can't recall what was better but I think it was side?
There were stuff about toothed belt being more efficent when compared to chain. But not sure if that took into account the wet vs dry clutch. But as it was with g50 and Manxs Norton I assume it does.

[Frits Overmars]

Thank you Frits. That's what I was hoping for.
So, a brake dyno connected directly to the gearbox output shaft (no chain), should measure 97.5 * 97.5% = 95% of crank power.
And, I suspect, far more realistically than an inertia dyno.In fact, an inertia dyno works at least as accurately as the very best braked dyno, and it is much simpler and cheaper. But it can't do everything; if you want to measure at static revs, you need to augment the inertia dyno with some kind of brake.
On the other hand, an inertia dyno is ideal for developing a competition engine which is never going to be used statically but is constantly accelerating.
And with the right choice of transmission ratio you can ensure that the rate of acceleration on the dyno is identical to the rate of acceleration on the track.
This is especially important for a realistic exhaust gas temperature behaviour and thus for an optimal functioning exhaust pipe which as you know is the single most important factor in two-stroke power.
Another advantage: a dynamic dyno run may take roughly ten seconds and therefore the engine might survive an ignition timing that is too early or a mixture that is too lean, whereas a static measurement, which can take up to five minutes, would destroy that engine.

[Frits Overmars]

I seem to remember Jan saying there was a measurable difference. Between a primary drive output from the center vs one from the side. I can't recall what was better but I think it was side?It was. The power take-off from the crankshaft center required an intermediate shaft (with an extra pair of gears) between crankshaft and clutch.

[F5 Dave]

Wobbly typically posts something about no free lunch about this point. Usually as I'm hungry.
Ok I'll pay for my lunch.
Ooh bacon egg paninini. :drool:

[ApolloMotoMoto]

Question on crankshaft contruction;

Crank-halves...

Nothing fancy, just trying to ensure we get a good press fit on the crankpin....

Looking at JIS S45C steel hardened to HRC 35.

That sound appropriate?

[jato]

What type of hardening are you proposing - case hardening? what size crankpin bore? finished after heat treatment i expect - i've been studying a lot of crankshafts in recent times to see which methods defer to cost/ease/quality and am interested to see how people tackle these critical parts

[Frank S.]

Question on crankshaft contruction;

Crank-halves...

Nothing fancy, just trying to ensure we get a good press fit on the crankpin....

Looking at JIS S45C steel hardened to HRC 35.

That sound appropriate?

I would rather use a higher quality steel.
42CrMo4 quenched and tempered to 1000-1200N/mm²
is far superior to a S45C in terms of strength and toughness.
It is also used for some racecar crankshafts.

btw 42CrMo4 is AISI 4140

[Wos]

just wanted to share a new method of calculating exhausts. for a couple of years I've been using 2 very different pipes that give almost the same poweroutput. tried to make better pipes but not luch luck so far. So I thought : the best pipe must lie somewhere in between them. and so I calculated a pipe which has exactly the average dimensions of both . blue pipe = R, green pipe = GY, Average pipe = pink

https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/album.php?albumid=5192&attachmentid=355878https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=355880&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1741524510
(https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=355880&d=1741525580)
and the result :

https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/album.php?albumid=5192&attachmentid=355878https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=355881&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1741524510
(https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=355881&d=1741525798)
:cool:
also made an experimental pipe. in the past I used a program of Coker racing to calculate exhausts, and that seemed to work also, but there was something funny about the diameters with that one : as you lower the rpm's, the pipe became fatter which is contrary imho. So I made a pipe using Coker length's and FOS diameters, and included a reverse-cone baffle (here compared to the AVG pipe) :
355883
and the result is also good :
355882

Many many tanks to you Jan for creating the pipe excel with help of Frits/Jan/ Wobbly.

We made 5 pipes for our needs, setting Peak where we need it for enduro classic races.

We think it works very well! :niceone:



Hope it isnt old fashioned or obsolete now !??


Think we will use it, till there is something better !!!:niceone:

Newest projekt puch with rotax 124⁶

[ApolloMotoMoto]

What type of hardening are you proposing - case hardening? what size crankpin bore? finished after heat treatment i expect - i've been studying a lot of crankshafts in recent times to see which methods defer to cost/ease/quality and am interested to see how people tackle these critical parts

crankpin diameter is 16mm

Hardening process is not fully defined at this point, still reviewing option.

After doing a cursory search of what I could find from Wayne on the subject of crank material and hardness; this is what I am comming up with:

From Wayne:

-crank wheels need a ductile core
-EN36B is the "best" material

"(...) all the surfaces that wont be ground need to be painted with a copper based coating to prevent the hardening gas from thru hardening the whole part."


In another post, speaking about press fits tolerance ranges considering different crank web materials using a solid pin vs a hollow pin, Wayne says:

"(...) your press fit (...) final number depends upon two main factors.

Solid pin or hollow pin , and crank material/heat treat.

For a hollow pin and or a case hardened only material ( 4140 ) the number is 0.08 to 0.1mm.

For a solid pin and or thru hardened tool steel ( EN36B ) the number is 0.05 to 0.06mm."

When Wayne says "thru hardened EN36B" I am **assuming** this is because the pin-bore would be thru hardened using the differential hardening technique described above, using the copper masking to keep the crank webs ductile while the pin bore is thru-hardened to a depth of hardness beyond that of case hardening???

Or am I assuming wrong; and the reference to thru-hardened tool steel is merely to give an example material that will require a smaller press fit tolerance number???

Pre-hardened 4140 was also on our "consideration list", but it appears to be less favorable when one considers the differential hardness requirement.


Any advice from here would be greatly appreciated;


Strongly considering the differential hardened EN36B (which sounds like a case hardening process to my inexperienced ear with the copper masking and the reference to hardening gasses).

[TZ350]

355885

As I probably wont get to ride it on the track because of the prohibitive entry costs for big bike racing compared to my regular Bucket racing class.

I thought I may as well have some fun with it on the dyno.

355887 355886

I have the twin fuel Petrol for the pilot jet Methanol for the main jet thing working Ok (42 RWHP). On the dyno it uses one liter of petrol to two liters of Methanol. On the track it would probably be more like 50/50 as you are not on the main jet nearly as much as the dyno.

355888

Now I have turned my interest to Nitro injection. The Ignitech ignition I use has two maps and provision for mapped power jet control.

I use a thumb push button on the handle bar to let the Ignitech know that it is Ok to swap to the second ignition map and to run the peristaltic Nitro pump when the RPM is in the mapped zone.

As I have pointed out before, if the motor has a correctly jetted carburetor for Petrol and/or Methanol then adding Nitro directly to the airstream works perfectly. As Nitro has slightly more fuel than oxygen so it slightly enrichens the mixture while bringing more oxygen with it. The perfect self correcting liquid supercharger.

Anyway previous experiments have shown that this can work reliably.

The concept is to have a bike you can ride around all day on its regular fuel and push a button when you want the Nitro supercharging effect to kick in for that extra boost in power. Other than mechanical strength restraints there is probably no limit to how much Nitro you could pump in.

Now I have to just get it working properly so I can do some back to back dyno runs to prove the concept.

[wobbly]

The first answer here is about the Dyno RWHP numbers to EngMod crank numbers.
I have done many , many racebike projects with big/light wheels and slick tyres , nearly all using AvGas on various DynoJets and the conversion has historically ended up at the 12.5 to 14% number.
On my engine dyno with a chain drive from the engine sprocket to the inertia mass its closer to 5 - 8%.
Patrick is now quoting as gospel , that converting from his RWHP inertia dyno to his MOTA numbers is 15% - but he is not running petrol, one minute its E85 , next its going to be Methanol so of
course those conversions will be very different.

Re the crank wheel press fits.
The best process is using the EN36B and doing the correct rough machine, stress relieve , finish machine , then case harden with masking to 58-60 Rc.
But 4140 can be finish machined in one go then Nitrided on the pin bore and journals only , works just fine for cranks that will only ever get rebuilt a few times.

[Frank S.]

The best process is using the EN36B and doing the correct rough machine, stress relieve , finish machine , then case harden with masking to 58-60 Rc.
But 4140 can be finish machined in one go then Nitrided on the pin bore and journals only , works just fine for cranks that will only ever get rebuilt a few times.

Yes, the machining in one go of the prehardened 4140 makes the part cheaper.
And nitriding is done at around 500°C, that makes less warping in contrast to 800°C+ at case hardening with carbon.
That is how we do most of our highly stressed parts:cool:

[ApolloMotoMoto]

Re the crank wheel press fits.
The best process is using the EN36B and doing the correct rough machine, stress relieve , finish machine , then case harden with masking to 58-60 Rc.
But 4140 can be finish machined in one go then Nitrided on the pin bore and journals only , works just fine for cranks that will only ever get rebuilt a few times.



Yes, the machining in one go of the prehardened 4140 makes the part cheaper.
And nitriding is done at around 500°C, that makes less warping in contrast to 800°C+ at case hardening with carbon.
That is how we do most of our highly stressed parts:cool:

Well now you are speaking my language...

We have two different development paths that are being worked "in parralel".

There is the race program development which is being used to "find" the failure points in the 'as prodcued' engine from the manufacturer. To understand these failure points and develop solutions that will allow us to push to the "next step" of power output and (ideally...) dominate on the track.

There is also the stock engine manufacturing development program that must take these solutions from the race program and find some way of applying them to the manufacturing evironement back in China as it currently exists. With the ultimate goal of "production engines" leaving the factory from China with the power level and crucially the "Power Range" to be the exciting/competative/reliable race engine packages for our racing series. Long, LONG term goal is to have "race level" engines (for our series) available directly out of China from multiple vendors, at a price point that allows us to fill the race-grid with bikes.

The "problem" we currently have, is that in order to have a competative race engine, you have to "know a guy"; or you have to be enough of a guru yourself to roll your own.

Beyond that, the parts required to sustain competative power levels in the top classes are not publicly available, and largely kept a secret when they are produced (not really suprising, eh?).

The stock engine manufacturing development program is making a lot of progress in this regard; we finally have a partner factory in China that is working directly with us as a team partner, supporting the races, and apply the changes we ask for as needed.


A 4140 (42CrMo is what it looks like they will actually be, as that is the closest 4140 equivalent that is locally available) material that can be final machined in one pass with no required stress relieving is exactly the process we need for the stock engines. As it stands right now, almost no-one ever services these cranks. The parts are so cheap, you just buy a new one. Racers are the only users who ever pop the cranks open, and that is only to install up-rated rods and bearings scavenged from scooter/motocross engines of similar displacement. Thankfully the stock rod development is actually much further along than the crank webs; double forged 20CrMnTi (equivalent to JIS SCM439) at HRC 35 through the beam, copper masked and carburized/case hardened to HRC 60 at the bores. With these new rods, we are anticipating we shouldn't have to immediately replace the stock rods in order to "go racing".


Thans all for the advice!

[SwePatrick]

Season is in it´s startingblocks.
One need to start making our engines ready for some racing.

I start here, i also set a goal, i´ll try to reach 90whp in my old TZR250 engine(1kt)
It is heavily modified ofcourse, running methanol.

Ported 3xv cylinders, blocked ypvs(there isnt any room to make them work, i tried)
Lectron 39mm(i bored out a couple of HV versions that had only 34mm venturis, now the venturi is 39mm, A-6 rods
V-force 4r with polini 0.4 petals.
Home made intakes
+5mm rods
Woessner yz125 pistons
Carbon clutch. with eight springs.
Pipes designed and built by me.

Earlier best result is 88.7whp at 11780rpm

So, does it perform aft sitting for about 4-5months?

Have a look:


https://youtu.be/KrTcCEr8LwA?si=2qkL1gafDKcE99Dt

[SwePatrick]

Dynoday2
Is it one of the hottest 1kt engines out there?

This years updates is only:
New reedpetals
New sparkplugs
Added electronic controlled powerjets(controlled by maxxecu)

I haven´t even opened the engine since last fall. *lol*
But compression is good, ~205psi.

Engine is running on Methanol.

Can i claim world record?
(At least worldrecord in a Yamaha 1kt engine)

https://youtu.be/9qPhcKbNhBU


https://youtu.be/9qPhcKbNhBU

[wobbly]

Sorry Patrick but you are nowhere near achieving any records at all.
With 90 RWHp @ 12,000 , that is, using your new, suddenly agreed to loss rate of 15% to the crank, equals 103.5 Crank power = 51.75 Hp/ cylinder.

But if we now conveniently take off 15% due to the increased performance from running Methanol ( easily achieved ) then you are back to 45 Hp Crank on Petrol.
This is a bmep of 13.44 bar @ 12,000.

The EngMod result of a 3YL TZ250 ( virtually a V configured 1KT ) using the same 3XV cylinders that bolt straight on, is 54 Crank Hp @12750 = 15.2Bar bmep.
Take off 15% gives 46 RWHp / cylinder on LL100 petrol.
The rpm increase is easily achievable as both engines have the identical short stroke- big bore configuration.
That is only 22M/s @ 12750 rpm.

So how you interpret your personal best result on Methanol, as being in any way world beating ( unless you consider where you live as " The World " ) like Mericans do, is beyond my limited intellect.

[Vannik]

I need to fill B-ports that were cast with too big a hook - it blows the mixture straight out of the exhaust port. Somebody posted here about an epoxy that they successfully used to fill the B-port passage by positioning the cylinder at a required angle and then poured the epoxy into the port. I tried searching for it but the search function does not agree with me. Does anyone have a recommendation?

[Frank S.]

I need to fill B-ports that were cast with too big a hook - it blows the mixture straight out of the exhaust port. Somebody posted here about an epoxy that they successfully used to fill the B-port passage by positioning the cylinder at a required angle and then poured the epoxy into the port. I tried searching for it but the search function does not agree with me. Does anyone have a recommendation?

https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/86554-ESE-s-works-engine-tuner?p=1131229504&highlight=devcon#post1131229504

There it was, Devcon B

[TZ350]

.
My Suzuki RG50. Not world beating or even close but it gets me around the track.

355922 355923

Blue line is with the power jet tube connected and Red line is without the power jet on the 24mm OKO carburetor.

My Ignitech ignition can map and pulse a power jet solenoid.

Now to find a way to have a solenoid effect the switch over.

[lodgernz]

https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/86554-ESE-s-works-engine-tuner?p=1131229504&highlight=devcon#post1131229504

There it was, Devcon B

A bit before then...
https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/86554-ESE-s-works-engine-tuner?p=1131224551#post1131224551

[41juergen]

I need to fill B-ports that were cast with too big a hook - it blows the mixture straight out of the exhaust port. Somebody posted here about an epoxy that they successfully used to fill the B-port passage by positioning the cylinder at a required angle and then poured the epoxy into the port. I tried searching for it but the search function does not agree with me. Does anyone have a recommendation?

Hey Neels, that's what I use on my engines:

https://jbweld.co.za/

[wobbly]

The Devcon B Liquid Epoxy is actually manufactured in Australia. I searched around and found that it is about 1/2 the price there of the same product from other countries.
I also found that most retailers dont have it in stock , even though they advertise it for sale , they have to get it in.
Sadly I could never find out how to buy it from the actual source.

[F5 Dave]

Rob. All very noble endeavours. But I question to what extent you have optimised the main jet and the outlet position of the pv tube.

I made a bolt on tube with a solenoid from KX carb. Intention to ignitech off to extend the over rev. Didn't finish my experiment. Didn't get to eat my free lunch. Mal never did either.

[ken seeber]

The way I see it is that Devcon B is a steel based epoxy and Devcon F is an aluminium based epoxy. Surely, in an aluminium cylinder, the F would be the way to go as it would have a thermal expansion approx the same as the cylinder.

We have used the F on crankcases and cylinders.

https://www.blackwoods.com.au/adhesives-sealants-fillers/repair-and-wear-resistant-compounds/devcon-aluminium-repaire-epoxy/epoxy-putty-devcon-alum-type-f-500g/p/04124908

Expensive, but you've gotta help Australia's ailing economy.

[TZ350]

355925


I question to what extent you have optimised the main jet and the outlet position of the pv tube.

Stepped the main jet down from 125 to 100 in small increments and optimised the ignition curve a degree or two at a time until I had the Red line. The Blue line is the same settings as the Red line but with the Power Jet.

I think you are right, the power jet tube could be better placed but it is what comes standard with these 24mm OKO carbs. At a later date I am looking to change it, so it is lower and closer to the slide cutaway. I would like to start the power valve enrichining earlier. I think this will get rid of that dip. The dip was not there before with the larger 125 main jet.


I made a bolt on tube with a solenoid from KX carb. Intention to ignitech off to extend the over rev. Didn't finish my experiment. Didn't get to eat my free lunch. Mal never did either.

Its a bugger about missing the free lunch.

I am going to try an air solenoid that the Ignitec activates to bleed air into the power valve suction line. So as to collapse the vacuum sucking fuel in through the power jet.

Anyway, may get to see how that goes tonight.

355924

[TZ350]

355926

Blue line = PJ. Red line = No PJ. Green line Ignitec switches a solenoid to swap between PJ and No PJ. The solenoid admits air into the PJ suction line.

355927
So the concept works. How about that....:scratch:

[jonny quest]

Has anyone cut down the stock pickup pad on flywheel, and tig welded on a new one in a different location?

[Mollihead]

I need to fill B-ports that were cast with too big a hook - it blows the mixture straight out of the exhaust port. Somebody posted here about an epoxy that they successfully used to fill the B-port passage by positioning the cylinder at a required angle and then poured the epoxy into the port. I tried searching for it but the search function does not agree with me. Does anyone have a recommendation?

I used JB Weld several times without any problems.
Heat up the cylinder to around 50 degree C.
Mix JB Weld in a tin can and warm it with a heat gun.
It becomes very liquid and you can apply it in the port and let everything cool down in the angle you wish to have.

[diesel pig]

355926

Blue line = PJ. Red line = No PJ. Green line Ignitec switches a solenoid to swap between PJ and No PJ. The solenoid admits air into the PJ suction line.

355927
So the concept works. How about that....:scratch:

I just remembered that is how Suzuki did PJ switching on and off with there RGV250's. No help to you TZ350, I know but that sort of PJ set up has a track record.

[Condyn]

VANNIK, please update regarding the B port hook modifications. I am curious where you intend to set your target point for the rear wall. I am currently modifying a cylinder for MORE hook, as well as narrowing the C port to match Frits recommendations. The thought of too much hook has crossed my mind, and my friend cautioned me to be very careful in this area. When you say it is blowing straight out the exhaust, where is the rear wall currently targeting, and where are you intending to target it?

[Vannik]

VANNIK, please update regarding the B port hook modifications.

The designer misunderstood completely and ended up with a cylinder that blows the mixture straight out the exhaust port. Other than a lot of grinding, the epoxy in the B-port needs to be filled as shown in attached picture. It had no hook.

355928

[Condyn]

Thank you VANNIK, Indeed the entire rear wall was slanted. As for the trailing edge of the A-port, do you intend to change this as well? I am only being curious.



( unless you consider where you live as " The World " ) like Mericans do, is beyond my limited intellect.
As an American, I can confirm this comment to be accurate for 99 percenters.

[Vannik]

Thank you VANNIK, Indeed the entire rear wall was slanted. As for the trailing edge of the A-port, do you intend to change this as well? I am only being curious.

I intend to change both trailing and leading edges.

[Mollihead]

355926

Blue line = PJ. Red line = No PJ. Green line Ignitec switches a solenoid to swap between PJ and No PJ. The solenoid admits air into the PJ suction line.

355927
So the concept works. How about that....:scratch:

I always wonder what’s the sense of this powerjet implementation coming with PWK carbs without a solenoid switching it off after peak?
How can it be useful?

[F5 Dave]

Has anyone cut down the stock pickup pad on flywheel, and tig welded on a new one in a different location?
Why would you bother? Just get a tool maker to broach a new keyway and epoxy the old one. Done this twice.
Welding flywheel could cause strife anyway.

[wobbly]

Jonny Quest - yes , but a slight variation. It is all to easy to ruin the rotor magnets by overheating them if tig welding a lobe on the outside.
I machined off the original lobe and made a very small cut on the flywheel OD up to where the lobe outer side was.
Then I made a thin full circle ring with the new lobes on it.
Freeze the rotor and warm up the ring - an easy press fit with no heat.

[TZ350]

I just remembered that is how Suzuki did PJ switching on and off with there RGV250's. No help to you TZ350, I know but that sort of PJ set up has a track record.

Didn't know that Suzuki had done it that way. Good news though, now I know I am on the right track.


I always wonder what’s the sense of this powerjet implementation coming with PWK carbs without a solenoid switching it off after peak?
How can it be useful?

355932

I never rely understood the power jet thing. They seemed a bit of a gimmick. Some of our engines like to have the power jet connected, others did't.

The hot mod on a TZ was these power jets. But they always seemed flawed to me. If you need more fuel, then fit a bigger main jet or lift the needle.

355931

Now that I know how to turn the power jet off for extra top end and over run. With the addition of an air solenoid, the old TZ style Mikuni power jet could be made to do something useful now.

[Noxin]

Has anyone cut down the stock pickup pad on flywheel, and tig welded on a new one in a different location?

Yes, I added a pickup pad on a RG125 flywheel that I mounted on a 2-cyl GT250X7 and used it with a Ignitech unit.
I just made a big blob with the MIG-welder. Then I machined it to correct size.
Worked very well.

[wobbly]

TeeZee - Quote - " I never rely understood the power jet thing ", " If you need more fuel , just make the main bigger " - well guess what , that makes the mid range rich as hell, no matter what needle/tube is used
and the fuel curve goes horribly rich past peak power.
Yamaha used the " ordinary " PJ on early TZ Yamaha engines and it made a huge difference to the on track performance and tuning.
Then later they added the solenoid control , this overcomes a carburetors natural tendency to go richer and richer past peak power, as the rpm and mass airflow continue to increase, but power is reducing
thus less fuel is needed not more.
This works incredibly well , more especially using PWM control to gradually ramp in the fuel cut rate.

[husaberg]

TeeZee - Quote - " I never rely understood the power jet thing ", " If you need more fuel , just make the main bigger " - well guess what , that makes the mid range rich as hell, no matter what needle/tube is used
and the fuel curve goes horribly rich past peak power.
Yamaha used the " ordinary " PJ on early TZ Yamaha engines and it made a huge difference to the on track performance and tuning.

You stole my thunder.:msn-wink:
although I was just going to say different fuel circuit effect different areas, with the overlapping area they effect being huge. Power jets gave a way of tuning one specific area.
I was also going to mention different fuels leaded vs unleaded like different mixtures past peak power.
355933355935355934355936
Carbs are an analogue instrument highly developed.
there are or were fiddle screw adjustable power jets and adjustable powerjet kits.
355939355940

Bell wrote up I thought quite well why they were useful on the early TZ etc


The Mikuni Powerjet carburettor is still rather new to road racing motorcycles
(although Yamaha have been using them since 1976), being originally designed for
snowmobile racing engines. These carburettors have, in addition to the normal 97
metering systems, another separate system with its own power jet and delivery tube,

hence the name Powerjet. The delivery tube hangs in the air intake, in front of the
throttle slide, and is connected through a metering orifice to the float bowl. Up to
almost full throttle, the Powerjet carb operates just like any other Mikuni but, as full
throttle is approached, the air moving past the tip of the Powerjet delivery tube creates
a depression great enough to allow atmospheric pressure to push fuel through the
power metering jet and up the delivery tube into the airstream.
The Powerjet therefore has the effect of enriching the mixture at full, and close to
full throttle, and then only when air velocity is high enough to create a vacuum of
sufficient intensity to discharge fuel. It is, in effect, a load sensitive enrichment system
which allows for more accurate (i.e., leaner) fuel metering at part-throttle operation.
This ensures clean acceleration and smooth running out of turns, yet gives proper full
throttle mixture richness for high power and effective engine cooling. The effect is an
improvement in part-throttle performance and reduced fuel consumption.
Additionally, some two-strokes have a tendency to lean out as they pass beyond full
power rpm with conventional carburettors, but the Powerjet Mikuni is able to cure
this. Normally, when a Powerjet carburettor is used, the main jet size will be around
70-100 smaller, depending on the size of the power jet fitted to the carburettor.
(TABLES 5.2a & 5.2b).

[husaberg]

355941355942
What didn't fit.

[Mollihead]

„Additionally, some two-strokes have a tendency to lean out as they pass beyond full
power rpm with conventional carburettors, but the Powerjet Mikuni is able to cure
this“

Sounds like a contradiction to the statement of Wobbly:

„this overcomes a carburetors natural tendency to go richer and richer past peak power“

And what is the influence of power jet position? PWK is at the top, Mikuni more to the center. A lot of additional variables

[husaberg]

„Additionally, some two-strokes have a tendency to lean out as they pass beyond full
power rpm with conventional carburettors, but the Powerjet Mikuni is able to cure
this“

Sounds like a contradiction to the statement of Wobbly:

„this overcomes a carburetors natural tendency to go richer and richer past peak power“

And what is the influence of power jet position? PWK is at the top, Mikuni more to the center. A lot of additional variables



am not sure what he was meaning but with the old ones if you jetted it for most conditions ibelow absolute max rpm it was never right right at the top end.
if you carb is rather large, they tend to not auto enrichen like a smaller one will past peak power RPM. This was a good safety feature.
pretty sure if you are on an ultra large carb the opposite can happen. I tended to run fat and forgiving.
Wob can answer the position question he used to move the ones on the PWK shorties when using them for non MX bikes
I can't find the post I was looking for.

The carbs of the MX bikes with the Powerjet and TPS all have the air guides in the bellmouth in front of the slide.
This kills a heap of flow compared to an SPJ, but does give good response down low ( worth a couple of Hp on a RS125 in the top end for example ).
The flow thing isnt really an issue for a bucket motor as they are only made in 36 and 38mm - so plenty big enough to get the flow back with area.
The SPJ will handle more downdraft due to the Powerjet fuel pickup point in the bowl.
The MX ones have an issue with this as the suction point is right at the back of the bowl and would not be under water if tipped up too far.
I posted a pic of the fix a while ago.


Are the teflon seals for the RS125 kit, available in a range of sizes ie where do they come from.


You dont want the piston hitting during normal running,just short of a hit is whats needed at the peak rpm you would normally see on track - often when idiot riders bash the shift pedal on the overun into corners,
with no dynamic com pressure at work.


Saw an amazing ride in the weekend.
A 70+ guy now holds the lap record for post classic pre 82 Junior at Pukekohe,on a C model TZ350.
Im sure the toroids made a difference,but even with Dual Carbon pads you have to know how to go down inside 4 bikes at a time into the hairpin.
Poetry in motion on a bike - makes all the hard work seem easy.



The powerjet dump tube on the KX carb is down very low in the venturi,I have been bending this upwards toward the carb centreline.
This is due to the MX bike using the solenoid switching at very low rpm.
In a race situation you dont need vacuum on the jet down low and up higher is where the dump tube is on the SPJ carb from Honda RS125/250.



The problem as I see it with adjusting the AFR trying to simulate a PJ being switched off is that this has two effects on the result.
It will increase the temp seen by the pipe, but I believe also the code does a calculation of the energy available in the fuel, and adjusts the power
that quantity will deliver - maybe in this case the two counteract each other exactly.
This is because max power is seen down at a rich mixture,around 12:1, closer to stoichiometric there is less power available, in theory and reality.


But the other thing you should realise is that although a solenoid powerjet is reducing the fuel delivered to the engine, it
is actually correcting the natural,progressively richening mixture coming from the carb, not reducing the AFR below what is was previously.


I will ask Neels about a workaround, but my reaction would be to use the pipe wall temp/rpm input screen,to increase the average temp in the pipe after a set rpm.
Going from a " normal " 50* wall temp to a 150* wall temp at 12,000 will for sure have the desired effect on the overev.
In reality the temp will increase gradually, so a temp ramp over say 1000rpm would simulate reality better.
I dont know if the code interpolates temp between the set points.



Yea running Avgas correctly means you will be lean at peak power, and using a powerjet a little too big will for sure detonate in the overev as it turns off too much fuel.
If the set point is too low or the jet is too big,you will feel the switch almost like a 7th gear,the bike takes off as the pipe heats suddenly.
With the diameter and rpm set point on the money, it just becomes a seamless increase in rpm ceiling.



We did the reverse of this years ago , having to change from Meth back to petrol ( Avgas ).
On Meth it was at 18:1 compression , no extra advance anywhere , and made 48.5 Hp ( 125 TM - MX engine )
Changing back to AvGas I dropped the com to 15.8 , lengthened the pipe 15mm in the header and 15mm in the mid ( then later built a better pipe ).
Best advance curve again was as it was previously.
This setup made 43 Hp but had nowhere near the mid power , and had lost alot of overev.
I wound in some mid avdance , but this had no effect , and the only way to get the overev back was to fit a solenoid powerjet that stopped the carb
going rich over the top of the pipe.
Obviously the Methanol didnt mind going rich and kept on reving hard.
Lengthening the pipe pulled up the mid , but lost even more overev.
So the final result was a loss of 5 Hp in 48.5 = 10.3% but the real penalty was the powerband width.



In the tests I did years ago having the powerjet discharge end mounted down from the top of the carb bore and later , shortened , gave a smoother and more
gradual flow rate transition much higher up the fuel curve. The Keihin carbs with the discharge nozzle mounted below 1/2 throttle , start to flow almost immediately the slide passes the tube.
Of course later , using a solenoid with PWM drive as Dellorto did , gave electronically the same gradual flow ramp up that didnt suddenly richen the fuel curve in the midrange as soon as the slide was high enough.



Hey Mr Pig , regarding the carb question again , I am tending to the 36mm carb if the rest of the project is dialed into being used for roadracing.
The point here is that using the TPS and the Solenoid allows a longer pipe design , that will then overev easily by switching of some fuel just past peak.
If its as I suspect a WankStriker version , tap out the powerjet tube and machine out the wings in the bellmouth floor.
These work well in an MX scenario for throttle response below the pipe , but have a huge loss of airflow CFM when compared back to back with say a PWM.
You can tune the intake length slightly long to pump up the front side , and one of those sexy looking carbon fiber add on bellmouth extensions would help there as well.

[katinas]

"Dial a jet" old adjustable things from the nineties. Made in USA.

[wobbly]

So Yamaha were completely wrong with the idea of switching ON the PowerJet solenoid - ie switching OFF fuel in the overev, yea right.

[husaberg]

Some light reading to help you through the weekend.
355947
3x times past the mainjet.....

its a inside kiwi joke.

So Yamaha were completely wrong with the idea of switching ON the PowerJet solenoid - ie switching OFF fuel in the overev, yea right.
I think we are cross communicating. I think yamaha was just trying to get the mid and upper range correct
my understanding from what you wrote was the solinoid pj's were not about correcting a wrong mixture in as much but putting heat into the pipe to speed up the gas so its effectively making the pipe shorter?
Frits explanation as to why it works on Piston ports makes sense. the other thing to consider is those VM mikunis were very basic, not that much more an an Amal with no high speed airjets. later carbs were much more sophisticated.

[Frits Overmars]

So Yamaha were completely wrong with the idea of switching ON the PowerJet solenoid - ie switching OFF fuel in the overev, yea right.I added one sentence in that powerjet pdf, hopefully making it more understandable for everybody. You might want to take another look Wob.
355953

[wobbly]

I should add that imho, the hose up to the high point of the PJ was helpfull in that it created a time lag due to the fuel head working against the early suction created
by having the PJ nozzle in the middle of the carb.
Thus as soon as the slide passed 1/2 way up the VM carb bore there was negative pressure acting on the nozzle exit, but the hoses high effective fuel head momentarily slowed down the initial
discharge rate, helping to not dump fuel into the mid range, where its not wanted nor needed.

Of course the easier and better way to do this is to shorten the nozzle length such that nothing happens till the slide is up about 3/4 of its stroke , as Lectron and many
tuners did to the old VM carbs on TZ Yamaha's for years.

My comment about the Yamaha solenoid switching was in response to the quote from someone saying that carbs naturally run lean into the overev, if that were true
then the solenoid would be switched OFF ie turning the fuel ON to help cure this non existent effect.
Your comments Frits, are absolutely on the money, I would for sure put in several days of intense scrutiny before trying to contradict you , of all people on the InterWeb.

[Frits Overmars]

Your comments Frits, are absolutely on the money, I would for sure put in several days of intense scrutiny before trying to contradict you , of all people on the InterWeb.Wob, I scrutinize every word you write, but I never manage to find anything I can gripe about :msn-wink:

[SwePatrick]

Well, i keep on doing it wrong =)

And also, 'what ever floats your boat'

So why do i do it wrong?
Well, it seemed like it made good power early in the powerband with only the rod and original powerjet.
But it leaned out to much on top, and started to nipping the plugs, letting the engine not respond to ignition input anymore(virtually becoming a rc engine).
I needed to cool things down.

But just adding more on the rod or the original powerjet just made it loose power early, at about 8000-10000rpm, engine bogged off the line.
You see, i can duplicate the power without extra powerjets on the roller, but it doesn´t work at the track when trying to get good 60ft.
And then later going through the gears, it never deactivates as the rpm is above 10500 all the time, working just as a normal powerjet.
I´m touching the issue in video posted below(but with shiftcut), if sitting 'long' on launchcontrol the carburetors flood the engine while the ignition cuts randomly.

Methanol/dragracing life =)

93whp baby! (15% losses is becoming 109.4 at the crank)


https://youtu.be/ktIuMzRpjGQ

[wobbly]

SwePatrick - I will give you a hint that very few people know about, and its never mentioned in so called " jetting charts ".
You said that you had an issue keeping the mid range fueling correct when the WOT fueling was optimum at peak and in the overev.
Well the main jetting components that solely set the fuel curve when at lower rpm and WOT , is the annulus area of the needle tip sitting in the emulsion tube.

Most needles sit about 5mm into the tube , so measure that diameter and the tube diameter.
Using the tip area alone you can go from blubbering rich to deadly lean when within the mid rpm and WOT.

The only caveat is you should end up with the annulus at least 25% bigger than the main area.
Your jet combination must be very wrong as Methanol will happily run at 20 % rich with no effect on power. - making it way easier to find a working setup than petrol.

[husaberg]

SwePatrick - I will give you a hint that very few people know about, and its never mentioned in so called " jetting charts ".
You said that you had an issue keeping the mid range fueling correct when the WOT fueling was optimum at peak and in the overev.
Well the main jetting components that solely set the fuel curve when at lower rpm and WOT , is the annulus area of the needle tip sitting in the emulsion tube.

Most needles sit about 5mm into the tube , so measure that diameter and the tube diameter.
Using the tip area alone you can go from blubbering rich to deadly lean when within the mid rpm and WOT.

The only caveat is you should end up with the annulus at least 25% bigger than the main area.
Your jet combination must be very wrong as Methanol will happily run at 20 % rich with no effect on power. - making it way easier to find a working setup than petrol.
When a Keihin PWK on a Mx 250 or 500 wears oval in the un-replaceable Needle jet, you can use a needle with a much fatter lower section from say a mx125 to compensate. You can also tune the curve with shroud height an low and high speed air jets.

[F5 Dave]

When a Keihin PWK on a Mx 250 or 500 wears oval in the un-replaceable Needle jet, you can use a needle with a much fatter lower section from say a mx125 to compensate. You can also tune the curve with shroud height an low and high speed air jets.

You can pull out the tower and replace the jet with high tolerance insert and replace being careful of airleaks. Or buy aftermarket Stic (?) Replacement tower.

I believe at the start of this thread all those years ago my first post was about dropping the main jet out to prove it can't take full throttle.
Only usually catches you out when putting a very different carb on, say a small engine, but ive seen it more than once.

Methanol could easily see this. But also the cross drilling of the carb supplying the float jet or that orifice itself.

[husaberg]

You can pull out the tower and replace the jet with high tolerance insert and replace being careful of airleaks. Or buy aftermarket Stic (?) Replacement tower.

I believe at the start of this thread all those years ago my first post was about dropping the main jet out to prove it can't take full throttle.
Only usually catches you out when putting a very different carb on, say a small engine, but ive seen it more than once.

Methanol could easily see this. But also the cross drilling of the carb supplying the float jet or that orifice itself.


Yeah I pointed that out to someone the other day re the early post. Although I thought Rob had said it about Thomas. That tuner the ESE brought in to steal your wins at Taupo.:msn-wink:
I assume you picked it up from the same place I did (Bell)

I hadn't seen the inserts... it was a design flaw or more likely designed obsolescence I guess

[TZ350]

I believe at the start of this thread all those years ago my first post was about dropping the main jet out to prove it can't take full throttle.



Yeah I pointed that out to someone the other day re the early post. Although I thought Rob had said it about Thomas. That tuner the ESE brought in to steal your wins at Taupo.:msn-wink:


No, definitely F5 Dave's idea. Works well too, good check for fuel flow and needle/jet combo being to small.

[F5 Dave]

I think Ram passed that tidbit out during Fish and chips at a GP after match in the 80s, and probably Pete Sales to him and so on.

[husaberg]

This is where I got it from.

Whoops stopped the higherlighter short
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[F5 Dave]

But too late by then.

[lodgernz]

The way I see it is that Devcon B is a steel based epoxy and Devcon F is an aluminium based epoxy. Surely, in an aluminium cylinder, the F would be the way to go as it would have a thermal expansion approx the same as the cylinder.

We have used the F on crankcases and cylinders.

https://www.blackwoods.com.au/adhesives-sealants-fillers/repair-and-wear-resistant-compounds/devcon-aluminium-repaire-epoxy/epoxy-putty-devcon-alum-type-f-500g/p/04124908

Expensive, but you've gotta help Australia's ailing economy.

Super expensive with a minimum purchase of 6, and impossible anyway, since they won't ship outside of Australia. I thought only dipshit septics did that

[wobbly]

Ken, Devcon F is a putty , and I tried using that and even with a heated up cylinder sitting at the right angle, the added lump of epoxy would never completely settle flat.
Its bloody near impossible to get it to sit in the right place , prior to angling the cylinder - you cant simply pour it in.
When I tested the 3D printed clamp on outer transfer wall cooling system you made , the hottest the cylinder got was 80*C right at the case gasket line - the rest was
about the same as the water temp at less than 50* - plus the internal transfer walls are all cooled by the incoming A/F mixture.
So I dont think heat expansion is an issue at all.

The " B " is very runny and settles flat the instant it is poured into the cavity.
I have bought several boxes of this stuff from OZ, a friend simply got it and sent it to me by OZ Post, never been an issue.
As its made in OZ , maybe they would tell you what to add to " F " to make it liquid, but dont hold your breath, as I asked them what to use for cleaning up the large plastic syringes
I use to dispense the liquid - no reply.

[ken seeber]

Wob, you want liquid, here is liquid:

https://www.freemansupply.com/datasheets/Devcon/devcon-aluminumliquidputty.pdf

One major source for Devcon appears to be https://itwperformancepolymers.com, but not sure where it is made. They seem to have distributors everywhere in the world, but not Australia or NZ ??

[wobbly]

Thanks Ken , never seen that before. On the box of " B " I have it says Made in Australia by ITW-devcon.com.au.
But I cant find any mention of F2 on the website.

[TZ350]

.
Devcon "B" for those that live in New Zealand. Liquid and Putty.

356008 356009

[TZ350]

.
Australian supplier of Liquid B

356010

Devcon Plastic Steel Liquid (B) Epoxy


A low viscosity compound with all the properties of Plastic Steel Putty, but in liquid form.
Used for casting low-cost patterns and molds, holding fixtures, tools and dies.
Excellent compression strength and high load-bearing capabilities make it ideal for chocking and leveling machinery and bridges and repairing hard to reach areas.

Areas of Application


Holding fixtures for intricate parts.
Filling and leveling equipment.
Repairing hard to reach areas where a flowable epoxy is needed.
Duplicating or tracing masters.
Short-run dies and molds.

Features and Benefits


Low viscosity for easy pouring.
Can be cast over models for accurate detail reproduction.
Can be machined to close tolerances.
Low shrinkage.

[TZ350]

.
Team ESE have had a great deal of success with using Devcon "B", both liquid and putty. Sticks very well in transfer ports....

[flyonly]

.
Team ESE have had a great deal of success with using Devcon "B", both liquid and putty. Sticks very well in transfer ports....

And in exhaust ports? Or is it outside the temperature range?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[wobbly]

No - the high heat kills the epoxy in no time.
I have used J-B Weld ExtremeHeat ceramic paste to fill exhaust ducts , it lasted weeks of dyno testing, with no issues,

[Condyn]

I have filled very small weld pinholes in the exhaust duct floor with high temp devcon titanium putty. After dynoing I checked, and it was all gone. I have partially filled water jackets with it as well by using a small airline and a ram rod to jam it deep into the water jacket. It held up well in this area. And of course it always holds up in other areas of the engine. Going to try the liquid stuff and syringe trick to perpendicularize the b-port leading edge soon after plating.
I have also been advised by a reputable builder to try 3M panel bond instead of devcon, but that will be on a low stakes project in case it does not work.

[wobbly]

TeeZee , as you found its way cheaper to buy retail In OZ. Get a friend to buy it and send to you, still way cheaper.

[SwePatrick]

Nitromethane testing to celebrate my youtubechannel have reached a milestone.

Can i reach 100whp in my old Yamaha TZ250? (1kt/2ma engine)

What to expect?
Will the pipes still tune?

As i have watched twostroke stuffing(Alex Degnes) i got curios, can it be done better?
(not more power per cc, but with some more control)

Head on over to my youtube channel and watch, feel free to ask any question.
I´ll try to answer.

https://youtu.be/eLf3PW-9btU


https://youtu.be/eLf3PW-9btU

[Condyn]

Question regarding ignitech model.
I have 3 ignitech boxes. Two have 5_smd_7 stamped in the plastic, and the third has nothing anywhere. It is the exact same shape and the connectors are the same. With that minimal info, is anyone able to tell me if it is the same box? I have a brand new harness and basically want to know if the schematic is the same between the two.

[wobbly]

If you have a loom then all you need to do is connect Power and Gnd and the RS232 cable to a computer.
You can download any and all of the various versions of the software , it will tell you immediately if the hardware and software dont match.
All of the various versions have the same pinouts , within the same type ie a P2 or P2 Race etc , even if the software version is different.

[Condyn]

Ok thank you. Ignitech is becoming very popular in the snowmobile racing niche. Mostly privately labeled and sold as a special ignition for $1100 usd. Ripoff.
Almost everyone uses them without a charging system, and use 12v Milwaukee/Dewalt drill batteries etc. There have been numerous comments made of guys hovering over the mag with a timing light and the ignition fades away retarded and does not hold throughout the run. I ran an ignitech in this form last season, however I used a Milwaukee 18v battery with a step down regulator to 13.8v. I did this as a potential solution to my GUESS as to why racers were struggling with the ignitions not holding to the programmed curve. I did not stand over my engine with a timing light, so I am not sure if this solved the problem or not.

Anyone experienced this in other ignitech applications, and is it voltage drop related or something totally different?

[Storbeck]

Since we are kind of on the topic of ignitech and ignitions.

Ignitech vs zeeltronic?

I am into watercraft and zeeltronic ignitions are gaining some popularity for them. I've got a few and have been very happy with them.

I'm about to start a vintage dirt bike project, motor will be based on a 1973 yamaha rt3 360.

My current plan is to convert it to use stator and flywheel from a modern yz250 so that I can use the programable zeeltronic that is compatible, only because that is what I'm familiar with because I use them on watercraft. (different model for the yz than what I use on watercraft, but still it's a zeeltronic so there is some familiarity).

But I see on here the ignitech seems to be the more popular ignition which looks to be basically a competitor with zeel.

Is there a good reason to choose one over the other?

[wobbly]

As the Ignitech is a DC to DC converter system the output is very sensitive to the primary resistance and secondary inductance of the ignition coil.
The perfect example is that an Ignitech will run really badly on an RS125 Honda using the stock coil.
Fit an Ignitech coil or simpler/cheaper, one off a RS125/250 Aprilia or RGV Suzuki and its works perfectly.

This is also part of the reason they work better when using a battery charging system at 14.2V.
They work real well when upping the battery voltage to around 15V using Lithium Ion lightweight batteries.
In real high power setups running rich Methanol mixtures you can simply double up the outputs in parralel , into a big Crane coil designed for NASCAR CDI use.
This way more than doubles the power at the plug
There is no real advantage of a Zeel over the Ignitech , apart from the Zeel can be programmed from a hand held button box , at a cost of course.

[TZ350]

.
NITRO METHANE
.
To days dyno experiments were with my Suzuki RG50 powered Bucket Racer and raw Nitro.

I have always theorized that with a correctly jetted two stroke running properly on race gas or similar one can just squirt raw Nitro Methane into the bell mouth and you will see a power increase with out any air fuel mixture issues. The reason is, that raw Nitro carries just a little more fuel than oxygen so as well as adding oxygen for more power it effectively richens the ingested mixture too.

346359 346358 346357

The experiment was a bit crude. Just squirted the Nitro in. Blue line is Av Gas only and correctly jetted for max power. The red line is with Av Gas and Nitro squirt. The red line shuts of early as it goes over rich. For Nitro to be useful you would need ignition and mixture control. So the conclusion is that with a digital ignition and power jet control Nitro could be a very viable option, pity Nitro is illegal in our racing class.

But anyway if you have ever wondered if Nitro could be a good thing with two strokes then this experiment suggests there are real possibilities there.


If I was thinking about running 50% Nitro-methane and a Carburetor on a two stroke. I would keep the carburetor as original, correctly jetted for petrol (or whatever fuel you have been using) and drop raw Nitro (100%) in through a solenoid power jet. Or better yet pump it into the inlet with a small peristaltic pump. We tried this on the dyno. Pumped raw nitro into the carb bell-mouth. Some changes to the ignition at peak torque required but it worked great. It means two tanks, one for petrol the other for nitro.

This works because Nitro carries slightly more fuel than oxygen. Nitro by itself as a fuel, very rich mixtures are required for the small amount of surplus fuel in the Nitro to be at the correct air/fuel ratio with the inducted air other wise it runs lean. And you don't want to know Nitro when its lean.

But if you already have a correct air/fuel ratio running the original carb on petrol (or whatever) then all the extra Nitro does, is add oxygen and its own fuel at the perfectly correct air/fuel ratio for itself with a little bit of its own fuel left over to add some enriching of the original base petrol air/fuel ratio.


My suggestion is that Nitro is way, way more effective if used as am additive to a fuel system and engine tune that has been optimized for Methanol already.
This primarily involves a big jump in compression and a pipe tuned to the much lower Exhaust gas temp/wave speed that will be created by a rich (+ 20 % over stochiometric ) fuel curve.
The two are very much synergistic in action , whereas petrol/ Nitro is just a simplistic approach with nowhere near the possible capabilities.
Its like sticking nitros in a stock Avenger Vs a stock Aventador.


Nitromethane testing .... Can i reach 100whp in my old Yamaha TZ250? (1kt/2ma engine)

What to expect? Will the pipes still tune? As i have watched twostroke stuffing(Alex Degnes) i got curios, can it be done better? (not more power per cc, but with some more control)


Yes, I think it can be done better.

Start with a correctly jetted Methanol setup and Ignition map (1). Then introduce Nitro into the inlet via a peristaltic pump and switch to Ignition map (2) as different timing may be required at peak torque.

Using the Solenoid Power Jet options an Ignitec ignition can be signaled by a thumb switch to turn on the Nitro peristaltic pump and swap to the second ignition map over a pre selected RPM range. No doubt other digital ignitions may be able to do this too but DC-DC Race2 Ignitecs are what I am familiar with.

[Storbeck]

As the Ignitech is a DC to DC converter system the output is very sensitive to the primary resistance and secondary inductance of the ignition coil.
The perfect example is that an Ignitech will run really badly on an RS125 Honda using the stock coil.
Fit an Ignitech coil or simpler/cheaper, one off a RS125/250 Aprilia or RGV Suzuki and its works perfectly.

This is also part of the reason they work better when using a battery charging system at 14.2V.
They work real well when upping the battery voltage to around 15V using Lithium Ion lightweight batteries.
In real high power setups running rich Methanol mixtures you can simply double up the outputs in parralel , into a big Crane coil designed for NASCAR CDI use.
This way more than doubles the power at the plug
There is no real advantage of a Zeel over the Ignitech , apart from the Zeel can be programmed from a hand held button box , at a cost of course.

How does one identify a coil that will work well with their cdi?

Is it as simple as the lower the primary resistance and the higher the secondary inductance the better? Would different cdis want something different? Like would a weaker stock cdi work better with something different than a higher powered modern/better cdi?

I know that zeel publishes spark energy specs and some people have a bigger is better mentality but I'm not so sure it's that simple.

[wobbly]

Yes it is as simple as described, the lower the resistance and the higher the inductive reactance , a DC-DC voltage converter circuit will produce more spark energy.
In the example I gave an Ignitech P2 driving two RGV coils will pull about 1.75A @ 14.2V, running as a twin cylinder system
When the outputs are paralleled into the Crane single coil, the CDI pulls around 4A as the coils primary impedance is very low, and the secondary inductance is huge.

With the Honda example the DC-DC converter circuit was optimized for that coils specific characteristics, but the coil is simply not suited at all to the Ignitech output circuit.
A similar effect occurred I believe at Aprilia with the RSA, when they changed to a " bigger " coil, power increased.
That I believe was simply down to the fact that the new coils winding characteristics better suited the CDI , thus increasing the spark energy available.

But you are right in that bigger is not always better.
Many Honda and Yamaha Kit ignitions used a " power reduction" circuit , that dropped the spark energy at high rpm.
This gave much better peak and overev power - that function is available in some Zeel CDI.

Edit - Condyn , one of the very few reasons an Ignitech will not produce accurate ignition curves , is EMI. You MUST use resistor plugs and caps. The other issue is the proximity of the trigger or any other input/output
wiring to the coil charge wires.
They are on opposite ends of the loom plug for a reason.
I always run the coil wires on one side of the bike ( or whatever ) frame, and the triggers etc on the other side.
These simple things remove 99% of issues.
Also depin any unused loom wires, DONT coil them up to operate as very good antennae.

[Storbeck]

This is all very interesting and super appreciated to share the info.

I'm trying to squint my imagination as much as I can to figure out why less spark energy would give more power and I've got nothin. I can see how increasing spark energy beyond what is needed to "light the fire" would not get you any more but why on earth would less be better?

Maybe they don't retard the curve enough at high rpm so with less spark energy the ignition is slightly delayed??? (even that sketchy theory doesn't really make sense because honda and Aprillia would figure that out I would think).

Any idea why physically less spark energy was a benefit?





Yes it is as simple as described, the lower the resistance and the higher the inductive reactance , a DC-DC voltage converter circuit will produce more spark energy.
In the example I gave an Ignitech P2 driving two RGV coils will pull about 1.75A @ 14.2V, running as a twin cylinder system
When the outputs are paralleled into the Crane single coil, the CDI pulls around 4A as the coils primary impedance is very low, and the secondary inductance is huge.

With the Honda example the DC-DC converter circuit was optimized for that coils specific characteristics, but the coil is simply not suited at all to the Ignitech output circuit.
A similar effect occurred I believe at Aprilia with the RSA, when they changed to a " bigger " coil, power increased.
That I believe was simply down to the fact that the new coils winding characteristics better suited the CDI , thus increasing the spark energy available.

But you are right in that bigger is not always better.
Many Honda and Yamaha Kit ignitions used a " power reduction" circuit , that dropped the spark energy at high rpm.
This gave much better peak and overev power - that function is available in some Zeel CDI.

Edit - Condyn , one of the very few reasons an Ignitech will not produce accurate ignition curves , is EMI. You MUST use resistor plugs and caps. The other issue is the proximity of the trigger or any other input/output
wiring to the coil charge wires.
They are on opposite ends of the loom plug for a reason.
I always run the coil wires on one side of the bike ( or whatever ) frame, and the triggers etc on the other side.
These simple things remove 99% of issues.
Also depin any unused loom wires, DONT coil them up to operate as very good antennae.

[Condyn]

Wobbly, thanks for the tip. It makes perfect sense. The owner of the eddy current dyno that I test at has seen this before with MSD systems on his dyno. He has wrapped foil around everything to diminish noise. Again, thanks:

[Wos]

Question to the specialists in ignition Questions 😉

If you reduce spark energy at a point after peak power for more overrev...

Isn t it the same effect as setting ignition point later?

Both will shift complete burning thru into later point...???

Both will raising egt temperature???

Thanks to help my understanding 😉

Wolfgang

[wobbly]

The effect of spark energy reduction can be explained by understanding the dynamics of the system at each end of the powerband.
One end is defined as peak torque , the other end is from peak power and into the overev.
There are a large number of factors we can manipulate to achieve the best peak torque figures.
We have high MSV, high compression, high spark energy and large spark size in the ionized gap, fastest burn speed across the chamber combined with the highest mixture homogeneity
and purity.

At lower rpm we do not have many of these variables anywhere near optimum , thus the ignition timing has to be advanced to achieve the mechanically optimal peak cylinder pressure
point of near 15* ATDC.
Under best case conditions it has been found that at peak power the spark advance occurs near 15* BTDC , to achieve that optimum peak cylinder pressure at 15* ATDC.
But at peak Hp rpm we are already seeing the effects of sub optimal cylinder filling.
The method we use to counteract this reducing efficiency is to retard the spark to enable more energy ( heat ) to be released into the pipe, making it appear
shorter and thus the return wave arrives back at a more suitable time ( between TPC and EPC ) for the rising rpm.

Of course there is never a free lunch, and this retarded spark initiation point , then moves the point of peak cylinder pressure well past the optimal mechanical peak
cylinder pressure point of 15* ATDC.
The retarded spark is a Catch 22 of increasing stuffing efficiency by extending the peak cylinder pressure point later and later, at the expense of reducing the mechanical efficiency of the combustion system.

Another way to achieve the same effect as retarding the spark , without its inevitable downside , is to extend the combustion duration by firing it at a more optimal time , but reducing
the spark energy down to 50% of what was needed at peak torque.
This means the spark initiation can be retained sooner than 15* BTDC , but the duration of combustion is extended, once peak cylinder pressure has occurred at 15* ATDC.
The effect has been proven in GP racing , and although I would usually distance myself from anything to be said by Luc F , he has published a dyno ( real, I believe ) sheet showing this very thing.

This trickery can increase peak power as well as the desired overev , depending upon the optimization of the ignition timing to suit each rpm, and the combustion duration
achieved by the amount of spark energy reduction - this depends somewhat on how well the pipe length is already optimized for the desired speed range.

[Storbeck]

Holy cow this is blowing my mind. So 30 degrees after the spark event, the rate of burn and therefore the shape of the pv curve is still affected by the amount of spark energy.

[wobbly]

Thats what my wife said.
I first got an inkling into this years ago when first tuning a 3YL Yamaha 250. It had been moded to hell with new pipes and everything we understood about go fast shit
at the time. It would misfire like hell at peak torque , and as I didnt know about the trick fine wire NGK sparkplugs , my initial reaction was to drop the spark gap from 0.65mm to 0.35mm.
That cured the misfire , and then later on the dyno we discovered the absolutely weird relationship between the spark gap and the overev capability.
Finally settled on 0.45mm as this was just short of misfiring, but gave the best compromise in the overev.
Recently everything is completely different on a very similar engine , using the Ignitech @ 15.4V and the shorty fine wire plugs we run 1mm , and can manipulate the overev at will with
the ignition curve.
Im now seriously looking into setting up a rpm controlled regulator, that can reduce the voltage seen by the ECU and thus the mJoules generated at the plug.

[husaberg]

Thats what my wife said.
I first got an inkling into this years ago when first tuning a 3YL Yamaha 250. It had been moded to hell with new pipes and everything we understood about go fast shit
at the time. It would misfire like hell at peak torque , and as I didnt know about the trick fine wire NGK sparkplugs , my initial reaction was to drop the spark gap from 0.65mm to 0.35mm.
That cured the misfire , and then later on the dyno we discovered the absolutely weird relationship between the spark gap and the overev capability.
Finally settled on 0.45mm as this was just short of misfiring, but gave the best compromise in the overev.
Recently everything is completely different on a very similar engine , using the Ignitech @ 15.4V and the shorty fine wire plugs we run 1mm , and can manipulate the overev at will with
the ignition curve.
Im now seriously looking into setting up a rpm controlled regulator, that can reduce the voltage seen by the ECU and thus the mJoules generated at the plug.

This reminds me of something Honda found with ultra high rpm not needing decent octane at stratospheric revs this was in the days pre CDi and wide valve angles little squish horrible Piston domes that screamed I need really high octane. I cant remember where I read it but it was from I think Shoichiro Irimajiri.

found...
So as long as we keep it over 25,000 rpm we only need 35 octane.
https://www.cycleworld.com/story/blogs/ask-kevin/engine-rpm-and-low-octane-fuel/
Not where I seen it originally but it might have been in one of his books?

[pete376403]

This reminds me of something Honda found with ultra high rpm not needing decent octane at stratospheric revs this was in the days pre CDi and wide valve angles little squish horrible Piston domes that screamed I need really high octane. I cant remember where I read it but it was from I think Shoichiro Irimajiri.

I recall reading something similar from Kevin Cameron, they couldn't run high octane fuel in the super high revving engines because it didn't burn quickly enough. He said the high octane fuel would normally be used to suppress detonation by not "exploding" but rather a slower, controlled burn, but in the case of the Hondas, there just wasn't enough time for that to happen. Ahhh beat me to it!

[Wos]

Thats what my wife said.
I first got an inkling into this years ago when first tuning a 3YL Yamaha 250. It had been moded to hell with new pipes and everything we understood about go fast shit
at the time. It would misfire like hell at peak torque , and as I didnt know about the trick fine wire NGK sparkplugs , my initial reaction was to drop the spark gap from 0.65mm to 0.35mm.
That cured the misfire , and then later on the dyno we discovered the absolutely weird relationship between the spark gap and the overev capability.
Finally settled on 0.45mm as this was just short of misfiring, but gave the best compromise in the overev.
Recently everything is completely different on a very similar engine , using the Ignitech @ 15.4V and the shorty fine wire plugs we run 1mm , and can manipulate the overev at will with
the ignition curve.
Im now seriously looking into setting up a rpm controlled regulator, that can reduce the voltage seen by the ECU and thus the mJoules generated at the plug.

Thank you very much wobb for flood of Information...top!!!:shit: 😉

My life seems to be to short getting all the possible variations into ball park:laugh:

[katinas]

Edit - Condyn , one of the very few reasons an Ignitech will not produce accurate ignition curves , is EMI. You MUST use resistor plugs and caps. The other issue is the proximity of the trigger or any other input/output
wiring to the coil charge wires.
They are on opposite ends of the loom plug for a reason.
I always run the coil wires on one side of the bike ( or whatever ) frame, and the triggers etc on the other side.
These simple things remove 99% of issues.
Also depin any unused loom wires, DONT coil them up to operate as very good antennae.

Yes absolutely critical. I made a test bench for checking the ignition systems. 1.5 kw engine with maximum 22000rpm.
With Ignitech SPARKER DCCDIP4P4 I was completely confused for two days due to interference of the second spark after 90 degrees. And yes, the reason was the wires located close to each other. No such problems with the factory units that I tested, looks like Ignitech is very sensitive unit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J1-JTUKL0Uk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a5GkXjsijc0

[wobbly]

Yes the P4 seems extra sensitive , I ended up using CAT 5 audio cable with the shield grounded at one end for the triggers - problems gone.
Not only is it shielded, the wires are twisted pairs, on the scope there is no noise at all.

[diesel pig]

Yes absolutely critical. I made a test bench for checking the ignition systems. 1.5 kw engine with maximum 22000rpm.
With Ignitech SPARKER DCCDIP4P4 I was completely confused for two days due to interference of the second spark after 90 degrees. And yes, the reason was the wires located close to each other. No such problems with the factory units that I tested, looks like Ignitech is very sensitive unit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J1-JTUKL0Uk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a5GkXjsijc0

Oh this is very interesting. Along with what Wobbly is saying about wiring layout. I see a lot of rewiring ign wiring loops layouts in my future.

[katinas]

Yes the P4 seems extra sensitive , I ended up using CAT 5 audio cable with the shield grounded at one end for the triggers - problems gone.
Not only is it shielded, the wires are twisted pairs, on the scope there is no noise at all.

Thanks for the advice.
Ignitech allows to choose "Interlock input" function: this option works only for pickup system 1 lobe, 2 pickups. With elevated levels of electromagnetic
interference (e.g. at the time of ignition) on some motorcycles (e.g. Ducati) unwanted activation of the pickup input may occur,
especially that input which at the moment is not active. This option prevents unwanted activation blocking input 2 during
activation of input 1, and vice versa: blocking input 1 during the activation of Input 2. This option, however, may cause
problems, when combined with automatic determination of sensor polarity..
After turning off function, the troubles were even greater.
20 years ago I had this problem with my homemade long duration spark ignition for V 90 2 cylinder engine. Then got out of this by using a more powerful thyristor BTW69 1200v, with less control sensitivity. Just more revs was needed to open thyristor gate.

[SwePatrick]

I´d like to give you guys some advice.
Ignitech and such in all it´s glory.

But if you are having the budget, go for Maxxecu Mini(or better)
Working a treat on twostrokes.
You get a LOT of functions, and also more hardware to use(from the car tuning world)

I take the opportunity to post new video below, i run Maxxecu Mini in my tzr build.
In this episode i test the launchcontrol function, just raw no finesse, and also no slipperclutch.
You can dial in the launchcontrol with delay and gradually roll off(to help traction)
But not tested in this video, i just wanted to start somewhere and hitting it hard.

You can set limits and compensation to almost everything.
Say you run EGT´s into the maxxecu, you can use it to active keep egt´s in check.
Say you get low battery, you can compsate charging time of the coils to compensate for that.
Well. you can do almost anything.
If beeing a mathmatical guy you can also build your own tables.
The onscreen tacho in the video is done by using canbus to obd2, then into my android device.

Enough of that
here´s the video:


Enjoy!

https://youtu.be/ZiJxtf3ZKgw



https://youtu.be/ZiJxtf3ZKgw

And oh...
Even though my posts might be hacked to bits, it is creating topics for the keyboardwarriors *lol*
Keeping this thread alive =)

[TZ350]

.
356071

Air Fuel ratio as seen by an O2 sensor. In reality the AF ratio is probably close to ideal at all RPM but the O2 sensor sees the short circuiting air that was not trapped in the cylinder.

[husaberg]

.
356071

Air Fuel ratio as seen by an O2 sensor. In reality the AF ratio is probably close to ideal at all RPM but the O2 sensor sees the short circuiting air that was not trapped in the cylinder.

https://asmedigitalcollection.asme.org/dynamicsystems/article-abstract/107/4/252/399162/Fuel-Air-Ratio-Determination-From-Cylinder?redirectedFrom=fulltext

[fpayart]

Yes absolutely critical. I made a test bench for checking the ignition systems. 1.5 kw engine with maximum 22000rpm.
With Ignitech SPARKER DCCDIP4P4 I was completely confused for two days due to interference of the second spark after 90 degrees. And yes, the reason was the wires located close to each other. No such problems with the factory units that I tested, looks like Ignitech is very sensitive unit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J1-JTUKL0Uk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a5GkXjsijc0

Hello,

I also built a test bench for our ignitions, but using a vacuum cleaner motor, which is an AC motor.
The speed control isn't optimal.

I am interested in knowing the origin/supplier of your motor and controller.

Thank you in advance.

Francis.

[Niels Abildgaard]

Hello,

I also built a test bench for our ignitions, but using a vacuum cleaner motor, which is an AC motor.
The speed control isn't optimal.

I am interested in knowing the origin/supplier of your motor and controller.

Thank you in advance.

Francis.


Try this for price
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007913580606.html

[katinas]

Hello,

I also built a test bench for our ignitions, but using a vacuum cleaner motor, which is an AC motor.
The speed control isn't optimal.

I am interested in knowing the origin/supplier of your motor and controller.

Thank you in advance.

Francis.

Hi, very nice test bench, thanks for this picture.

I wanted to make it as simple and fast as possible, so I chose wooden shields.

Bought a set including the motor and control unit five years ago from ebay.
This is CNC spindle air cooling motor, diameter is 65mm 1.5 kw, shaft thickness 14mm, colet ER11,
Control unit HY01D523B 1.5 kw.
Another possible 1.5 kw engine is 80 mm in diameter and shaft thickness 19mm, colet ER16

Made this bench only this winter and didn't think it would be so helpful. I immediately identified several ignition errors that I could not understand when trying before, directly on a motorcycle.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256177930386?_skw=cnc+spindle+motor+1%2C5kw&itmmeta
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115617328222?_trkparms=amclksrc
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/405780924920?_skw=cnc+spindle+motor+1%2C5kw&itmmeta
https://www.ebay.com/itm/355838255230?_trkparms

Robert.

[wobbly]

My ignition dyno I built 25 years ago - it uses an industrial vacuum cleaner motor with a simple AC lamp brightness control that
usually gets mounted on the wall with a light switch. The light switch changes the field coil polarity to reverse the rotation.
Works perfectly from about 100 rpm to 20,000 with a 2:1 cogged belt and pulleys.
I mount it on a bench next to the dyno and use the spark triggered signal to generate rpm data , and used to use a VHS video camera to plot the
angle/rpm on a large protractor on the shaft.

[fpayart]

Thank you all.

Regards,
Francis.

[diesel pig]

Yes the P4 seems extra sensitive , I ended up using CAT 5 audio cable with the shield grounded at one end for the triggers - problems gone.
Not only is it shielded, the wires are twisted pairs, on the scope there is no noise at all.

OK, I have some CAT 5 cable on the way to me. Now to made absolutely sure I have understood you properly do you mean the common ground or the sensor ground for the cable grounding? that all Ignatech's seem to have?