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TZ350
7th October 2013, 21:43
Been helping one of the other guys with another guys F5, now does that make sense ..... :scratch:

288315

The Red line is what we got when we ran his new cylinder, reed, carb and pipe combo.

When we checked the timing we found the Transfers opened 114 deg ATDC (132 duration) and Exhaust 90 deg ATDC (180 duration).

The Blue line is where we are at, after raising the Exhaust port opening to 84 deg ATDC (192 duration)

288318

The ignition curve. More work to be done here yet.

288332

And the carb is a 24mm Tillotson HL360A pumper.

288331

Thought the new super duper reeds might be the problem so we setup for a back to back test with the original reeds.

Blue line is the original AM6 reed block, Red line is the new reed block with splitter and carbon fiber reeds.

288316

Looking at the shape of the curve I was reminded of when I experimented with different length mid sections on the Beast. At the time I was looking to see if it would be useful to make a Slippery Pipe for varying the tuned length.

288317

Well after trying everything from +60mm down it didn't look like it, I didn't get enough increase in low end width (power spread) for the trouble and then there was that weird double hump like we are seeing on the 50's graph.

Next move is to shorten the 50's mid section.

F5 Dave
8th October 2013, 05:14
30 deg blowdown isn't much. Transfers too high in relation to ex often cause queer pipe generated curves, but those are some serious revs. What is pipe length for such a low ex?

wobbly
8th October 2013, 06:32
The torque hole is just as likely to be a mismatch between the port STAs as it is to be incorrect fuelling from the carb.
Pumpers are notoriously hard to jet correctly for a piped engine even if it is ported correctly.
More often than not you will need seriously big openings on the low screw ( 2 1/2 T ) and 1/8 T on the top or something weird to get it to fuel the mid correctly.
Then spend all day mucking with the lever height and pop off to get the low end clean enough due to the big low end opening.

wax
8th October 2013, 07:24
Your very mild on the timing down low. Do you have the throttle sensor hooked up on the ignitech

TZ350
8th October 2013, 11:02
Your very mild on the timing down low. Do you have the throttle sensor hooked up on the ignitech

No TPS on the 50 yet, so we were keeping the ignition timing conservative in the hope of staying out of the part throttle death zone.

Any suggestions on how far you think we could go with the timing when we have a TPS would be welcome.

F5 Dave
8th October 2013, 13:29
Well I think I'm out of the hole with the dyno. Thanks to the ESE guys, TZ & esp Cully, hopefully this all works.

koba
8th October 2013, 14:06
It was suggested I post a pic of it, I'm clearly overly optimistic, but desperate enough. Worse thing is, it isn't mine, but I was last to use it & then next time it didn't pick up a reading from the drum. The sensor pulses when pickup passes through, there's correct seeming voltages to the board from the PC & the other inputs (ign, button etc) seem to work. Traced the sensor track back to the 37 pin connector on the PC card so its not just broken wire.

What does the port on the back look like?
Any chance of a shot of that?

Edit: Me = Slow!

F5 Dave
8th October 2013, 16:10
Well answering one of my questions a while back here is a downdraft Mikuni RGV carb bored from 32 to 35. As you can see there is still a 5mm slither in the middle I'll have to finish by hand, but I can live with that.

Also is my solenoid PJ mod made from 7/16" ally hex. I trusted the brass valve to a toolmaker (who also bored the carb) as its beyond my shaky lathe abilities. Also has a bracket welded to it that screws onto the carb so it is secure & hopefully will survive usual abusive race-meet jet changes. Obviously I'll have to trim and slashcut the brass tube when I devcon it in place. The feed will come from the std bowl which has a jet in it. Happens to currently be a Dellorto 30 jet (the std one was missing & it worked) so if they use a mm sizing should be close to the .35 Wob suggested for Av.

Now I just need the dyno going so I can test it. Whether it gets incorporated before the Battle of the Buckets at Ruapuna on the 19th I don't know.

wobbly
8th October 2013, 16:30
Dellorto do use mm size as jet ID.
But the #35 I referred to was a Mikuni solenoid jet as used on a TZ250 - these are flow numbers with no relationship to diameter.
You could measure one I suppose and replicate its diameter, that would be close enough I would think.

F5 Dave
8th October 2013, 16:34
Thanks man I'll give it a shot, presumably if it is too big the effect will not work or detonate as I reduce the rpm switch point & too small only last a few hundred rpm.

wobbly
9th October 2013, 06:48
Yea running Avgas correctly means you will be lean at peak power, and using a powerjet a little too big will for sure detonate in the overev as it turns off too much fuel.
If the set point is too low or the jet is too big,you will feel the switch almost like a 7th gear,the bike takes off as the pipe heats suddenly.
With the diameter and rpm set point on the money, it just becomes a seamless increase in rpm ceiling.

F5 Dave
9th October 2013, 09:41
I'm hoping I can tune it to correspond over a decent load and rev range.

Currently due to many other factors the bike is a little more peaky than it could be & signs off pretty sharp.

This isn't going to be ideal on long ccts with tall gearing making the gear changes far apart, but also on low kart track gearing there are gnarly sections that I find myself between gears in ~3rd & changing up to 4th you are almost at the next corner. The 50 is even worse.

Drew
9th October 2013, 09:43
The 50 is even worse.
Dunno how much you've done to it since I rode it all those years ago, but the thing was quite narrow in delivery. Felt so bad for the clutch, till I heard you ride it.:crazy:

F5 Dave
9th October 2013, 09:46
At a race meet briefing some years back the organiser said he didn't believe in reincarnation, but if he did - the one thing he didn't want to come back as was an RG50 clutch.

4x (thinner) TS plates & DT175 springs & they are incredibly resilient.

monkeyfumi
9th October 2013, 13:45
http://www.cotronics.com/vo/cotr/rm_putties.htm

Hello all, have watched this thread with interest for some time, but never felt worthy of contributing. Stumbled across the above, and wondered if the 7032 (rated to 2000 deg F) putty might be suitable for experimenting with exhaust dams or as an alternative to welding the duct for exhaust flange nozzles. (I have not used it, just found it trawling the net and thought I would share)

F5 Dave
9th October 2013, 14:20
um. . . .are they applying it to a chipped brake pad:shutup:? Makes you wonder.

monkeyfumi
9th October 2013, 14:32
um. . . .are they applying it to a chipped brake pad:shutup:? Makes you wonder.

Yeah, that did look questionable (hey! now you can just build up your pads when they wear out!).
It was the temperature rating that caught my eye

TZ350
9th October 2013, 15:17
http://www.cotronics.com/vo/cotr/rm_putties.htm

Stumbled across the above, 7032 (rated to 2000 deg F) putty might be suitable for experimenting with exhaust dams or as an alternative to welding the duct for exhaust flange nozzles.

Looks just like just the thing we need for sealing the exhaust dam and for filling areas where we break through between the fins when porting the transfers and side exhaust ports.

TZ350
9th October 2013, 15:30
There is a relationship between how wide you make a port, and how gradually it should widen in order to keep the ring healthy.

288382

With a good ring, 70% chordal of the bore is the optimum width. If you make it any wider, the widening has to be so gradual that you loose surface area at the top, where it counts most, because that's the area that opens first and stays open the longest.
The drawing below shows that with too wide a port you have to sacrifice the yellow areas at the top. But sacrificing those areas costs blowdown angle.area. That red port may have more open area, but not where it counts, at the top; the blue port is better.


Unless you keep the revs really low, a single exhaust port with a 70% chordal width does not give sufficient blowdown time.area, but because of the reason I explained above, making the port wider will be even worse. You will either have to use a bridge, add auxiliary exhaust ports, or raise the timing of the single port to well above the 190° that is optimal for pipe resonance.

288385

We have been experimenting with a way of getting more corner area (Green Line) from a wide port.

288384 288387

The trick we are trying is to have a really wide port with a large top radius for the ring and a flat edged stuffer that is 0.5mm or less from the piston for a timing edge. High temp epoxy will be just the thing for sealing the top stuffer.

We have run this on the dyno several times, The idea seems to work OK, but its early days and whether it can be developed into something world beating is yet to be seen.

TZ350
9th October 2013, 15:41
288388 288389

There are a few F5 projects on the go, this is Buckets4me and his RG50. And as far as the Team goes, his pretty much sets the bench mark.

TZ350
9th October 2013, 15:53
237930237929

After a bit of a thrash on the dyno....... Red is the old curve, Blue new.
Well worth the hours worked on it. Next step a better ignition. Thanks guys

Giggles RG50 .... (NOS Blue line) .... :facepalm: ... still you do have to have a bit of fun ... :D

TZ350
9th October 2013, 16:06
A single port will not be as wide as the total width of a bridged port, so the effect will be less pronounced, but the principle remains the same: each particle of exhaust gas wants to leave the building ASAP and the shortest path is radially outward.

288390

Therefore the radial lines from the center of the cylinder bore to the edges of the exhaust port describe the initial shape of the exhaust duct's side flanks.

But the duct volume should be no larger than absolutely necessary, so continuing those radial lines would be counter-productive. As the exhaust duct floor drops, these side flanks can be curved towards each other, keeping the flow cross-area of the duct constant. The picture shows the underside of the duct.

288391

One of the Team brought one of these Stage6 road bike cylinders. (the others are listed as Road/Race)

288393

A good looking cylinder but it needs a little work in the exhaust port.

288392

Top edge was marked out and chamfered back.

288394

Then the port roof was raised and the sides shaped like Frits suggested.

In this view, the curved top of the ports is an optical allusion, they are in fact flat and the sides at the bottom that look flat are actually curved up.

288395

I was worried about the Nicosil pealing off above the exhaust port but this cylinder has done a bit of time on the dyno now, and so far so good.

F5 Dave
9th October 2013, 16:09
288388 288389

There are a few F5 projects on the go, this is Buckets4me and his RG50. And as far as the Team goes, his pretty much sets the bench mark.
Well that just got competitive in a hurry. Took me years to get that far (and been the same spec since 2004). Good to see my old Swingarm in use.

mr bucketracer
9th October 2013, 16:10
288388 288389

There are a few F5 projects on the go, this is Buckets4me and his RG50. And as far as the Team goes, his pretty much sets the bench mark.holly cow you just matched the gt50

TZ350
9th October 2013, 16:15
Good to see my old Swingarm in use.

Your wheels too I think, TZR250 rims on RG50 centers.

F5 Dave
9th October 2013, 16:19
Well they came from a similar source/ 2 Wheels in Palmy did that batch, mine originally done by Sales jnr, but I did get one off Wheels which had to be redone. Simons bike which I think is Carls had my swingarm & that Tailpiece (and one of Speedpro's old reed barrels) but there was some horsetrading done by subsequent owners.

FastFred
9th October 2013, 17:07
Well that just got competitive in a hurry. Took me years to get that far.

That bike has been around for a fair while, 125's being their thing, I just don't think TZ or Buckets4me have talked about the 50 that much.


238016 here is TZ after he gave my poor little 50 a bit to much in the wet.

238017 but still rode to finish

238018 I wonder why the caned his life insurance (wet and no front brake)


It was a good day at Mt Welly last Sunday, cool, no rain and great racing.

245496

Great to have my Grandson out there in F5.

cotswold
9th October 2013, 20:06
288388 288389

There are a few F5 projects on the go, this is Buckets4me and his RG50. And as far as the Team goes, his pretty much sets the bench mark.

mine would be the other end of the benchmark

Dodgy
9th October 2013, 20:54
Oh, that is where my swingarm (ex F5) ended up. So, you got that from Darren? Where did the pipe. barrel and head end up?

SwePatrick
10th October 2013, 16:03
A while ago someone posted(think it was Husaberg) a link to a Swedish site with a simple program wich calculates a sample of 'FOS' pipe for free.
I´ve been in contact with the developer and he asked me what i would like to upgrade the program with.

I said, angels would be nice and if it wasn´t to much work a drawing of the different pieces to copy so one easy could cut out the different parts from the ironsheet.

Well,, he did it and then some.. :)

link again:
http://underdogsracing.com/fospipe/

rgds
Patrick

TZ350
10th October 2013, 20:17
Hi Teezee! In Hungary there is Simson Cup or Championship, so there are a lot of tuning simsons as well.Now I have found this link, which leads to a video of a street race, but if you are interested I can search for others, as we have races on small and huge rings.

http://www.sportmotor.hu/motoros_videok/simson/mami-kupa-simson-kat-1-futam-107529

Originally simson enginees are piston port valve enginees(inlet port), but there are some with reed valve and some rotary disc valve simsons as well. All of them are modified individually, so there aren't two which would be the same.

Here you can see some pics (membrane valve and rotary disc valve):

http://70per13.chiefyeager.fotoalbum.hu/?pageid=0

http://kepfeltoltes.hu/view/130929/106_2104_www.kepfeltoltes.hu_.jpg
http://kepfeltoltes.hu/view/130929/106_2106_www.kepfeltoltes.hu_.jpg
http://kepfeltoltes.hu/view/130929/106_2111_www.kepfeltoltes.hu_.jpg
http://kepfeltoltes.hu/view/130929/106_2114_www.kepfeltoltes.hu_.jpg
http://kepfeltoltes.hu/view/130929/106_2116_www.kepfeltoltes.hu_.jpg
http://kepfeltoltes.hu/view/130929/106_2117_www.kepfeltoltes.hu_.jpg
http://kepfeltoltes.hu/view/130929/106_2121_www.kepfeltoltes.hu_.jpg
http://kepfeltoltes.hu/view/130929/106_2124_www.kepfeltoltes.hu_.jpg
http://kepfeltoltes.hu/view/130929/106_2126_www.kepfeltoltes.hu_.jpg
http://kepfeltoltes.hu/view/130929/106_2120_www.kepfeltoltes.hu_.jpg
http://kepfeltoltes.hu/view/130929/DSC_6646a_www.kepfeltoltes.hu_.jpg

And there is some others from www.sportmotor.hu: (http://www.sportmotor.hu:)
http://www.sportmotor.hu/motoros_videok/simson/yamaha-yz-85-vs-simson-80-87233
http://www.sportmotor.hu/motoros_kepek/simson/?dr=67398
http://www.sportmotor.hu/motoros_kepek/simson/?dr=63946&p=1
http://www.sportmotor.hu/motoros_kepek/simson/?dr=68551&p=1


... if we have the chance we weld to get bigger and more appropriate B transfer passages, as it is clear that unfortunately in the original Simson cylinder there is no place for the B passage.

Forgi although some would not connect, I have enjoyed those Simpson photos and video that I could see.

If you have more I would love to see them as the work they do is what we would like to do with our Buckets.

husaberg
10th October 2013, 22:08
Seen this. and i don't really understand?

http://www.2stroke-tuning.com/moped-forum/index.php?app=gallery&module=images&section=img_ctrl&img=121&file=max

Frits Overmars
11th October 2013, 00:44
Seen this. and i don't really understand?


What is there not to understand, Husa? Some tuners do not use flexible grinders; they use trained aluminium-eating rats. Seems like the rats that did the above job were not yet very well trained :p.

Muciek
11th October 2013, 02:18
A while ago someone posted(think it was Husaberg) a link to a Swedish site with a simple program wich calculates a sample of 'FOS' pipe for free.
I´ve been in contact with the developer and he asked me what i would like to upgrade the program with.

I said, angels would be nice and if it wasn´t to much work a drawing of the different pieces to copy so one easy could cut out the different parts from the ironsheet.

Well,, he did it and then some.. :)

link again:
http://underdogsracing.com/fospipe/

rgds
Patrick

Is everything ok with those calculations? I had write there my specs of 250 single and it tells me that belly should have ID 168mm kinda too big I think... What do you think guys about this http://www.dragonfly75.com/motorbike/ECtheory.html looks interesting to me.

Grumph
11th October 2013, 05:46
Seen this. and i don't really understand?

KTM's back when they were also Pentons used a very similar Z shaped additional transfer pair above the inlet. Executed a little better though....

Frits answer is undoubtedly correct also. It's why you should always get the head back on quickly so as to keep the rats out.

wobbly
11th October 2013, 08:31
Yamaha did something similar in the TA125 and HH did many cylinders with the same idea.
All its trying to do is get some more transfer area and boost port scavenging for the loop
up the rear wall,where there is no actual room around the piston inlet port.
I could do with some semi trained mice here, specially if they can be taught to use a Tig on 0.8mm cold rolled.

F5 Dave
11th October 2013, 08:48
Well I got the dyno back together (though now the ancient PC is trying to fight me) but it goes Hoorah.

Got some runs in getting an ign curve with some benefits, needs more time. Didn't get to try the new carb arrangement. Foiled by a stuck float pivot pin (I have to swap bits over from one carb to the other body) & didn't have the tools to remove it. Got home & got it all sorted (with a tool I did eventually find in the gear I took with me).

Either way I had made a silly mistake with the PJ wiring, forgetting again that the power out grounds the power, not feeds it, so I'll swap some earth for volts and we'll be in action, hopefully for another run sunday which is close to leaving for Chch as I dare leave it. Blowing through the PJ feed & activating solenoid really clamps it off.

Knock gauge feedback was once plugged in last night; doesn't affect the power curve but does calm down the occasional orange flashing. Seems like a good safetynet, but obviously don't want to rely on it in case it broke.

SwePatrick
11th October 2013, 19:29
Is everything ok with those calculations? I had write there my specs of 250 single and it tells me that belly should have ID 168mm kinda too big I think... What do you think guys about this http://www.dragonfly75.com/motorbike/ECtheory.html looks interesting to me.

Actually i don´t know.
On my 132cc engine it´s seems really ok.
On a friends 90cc engine it also seems ok.
And on a other friends 66cc Zündapp it seems ok.

I haven´t checked it on any bigger displacemant engines than mine 132cc.
People in Sweden with snowmobiles use this program every now and then, and they say it seems to work.

I´ve got 130mm belly on my engine for example as i were a bit chicken on third stage diffuser.
The program says i should have 134mm,,(exhaustcalculator program that one can dowload)
this program also says 134mm.

If you got time and money, give it a go, it might just be a success,, and ofcourse,, it could be a disaster.

Frits that is very very competent here in the forum might give us a clue wether it works or not?

Rgds
Patrick

Frits Overmars
12th October 2013, 10:30
I have been waiting for 6 months to get a shipment from Ignitech, they wont reply to my emails and I have 5K worth paid for and pissed of customers. I rang Jim Lomas in Czech to get him to talk to them, but no luck - yet. Anyone know someone that speaks Czech.Seems that the only way to get chzech spark boxes is to go get them yourself, Wob. Greetings from Czech Republic.

Yow Ling
12th October 2013, 11:09
Seems that the only way to get chzech spark boxes is to go get them yourself, Wob. Greetings from Czech Republic.

Just a 30min drive from your place Frits?

wobbly
12th October 2013, 11:12
Hells teeth Frits, it looks like a Warsaw Pact tank bunker - oh thats right the Czechs were in the Warsaw Pact.
Did they shout you lunch of dry bread and water.
Sure doesnt inspire much confidence as the worlds leading edge ECU manufacturers when they work in that sort of environment.
If thats the front door, whats it like out back ?
Reminds me of most of what I saw of China's manufacturing base - shitty rat holes with exposed 3Ph wiring all over the place - dead scary.
I did finally get my big shipment of ignitions after a 5 month wait, heres hoping the latest order is handled better.

RAW
12th October 2013, 11:25
Hey Wob, as we're talking Ignitec, how would YOU go about offsetting the ignition timing of the rear cylinder on a inline twin, I would like to be able to adjust at a finer value than the 1* values of the Ignitec or is there something I'm missing ?

Nice pic Frits :shit:

Frits Overmars
12th October 2013, 11:42
Just a 30min drive from your place Frits?Yeah, if I average 1736 km/h. Which is not so simple on Czech roads...

wobbly
12th October 2013, 15:32
Ignitech put in the individual channel "correction " years ago, specifically for me when I got sick of spending hours correctly retarding
the rear cylinder on Rotaxs by grinding the keys.
I have since asked if they would reduce the amounts of correction to 0.5* increments but had no joy with that request.
You can fool the motor into receiving the correct timing on each cylinder by increasing the base advance on the stator ( thus retarding the actual timing )
and then advancing the front cylinder in its correction box.
By playing with each of the 3 variables - base timing and each cylinders correction - you can get precise actual firing of any amount in each cylinder.
I did this another way the other day on a TD3 that had 3 lobes on the plate and a single trigger.
The 1* increment of retard on one cylinder was too much, so I physically retarded the stator by 1/2* then advanced the other cylinder by 1* in software - this
gave perfect timing of both on the strobe.

wax
12th October 2013, 21:54
Im kinda shocked by the building that ignitech work out of. Oh well as long as they keep making good ignitions its all good

Frits Overmars
13th October 2013, 00:08
Im kinda shocked by the building that ignitech work out of. Oh well as long as they keep making good ignitions its all goodThat's the spirit. You should see my place.

fatbastd
13th October 2013, 08:07
Whose TD3 might that have been Wob?

Got that Frepin beast percolating yet?

Will it be ready in 10 days time?

koba
13th October 2013, 08:16
Hey all,

I thought I'd pick some brains on this.

Some background will help:

I've fried a few pistons lately, all my own fault.

The First one went after changing the pipe and not getting the jetting and ignition timing right for the new pipe.
It blew a hole in the top of the piston on part throttle when I started to lug it out of a corner, the engine was loading up more than I had been when I was running through that bend in a lower gear. I'd run with this pipe and ignition combo for a wee while but had been going slower and it had been on cold days.
It's certainly faster to be in the higher gear but not if the engine blows!

So with this in mind I needed to make some corrections.

The second one due to an error on my part, I've been measuring the timing by piston height, I was on one specific setting for ages so it was ingrained in my brain, so much that I forgot to correct for the recent changed in height of the head...
I've also made a (very ugly) dial gauge fixture so I can be properly accurate.

Anyway, I suspect there may be quite a mismatch between the ignition bow that I've been using (KX125) and my porting/pipe so I've shelved it for now and built a cheap Jaycar CDI unit that has no curve.

Yeah, I'm aware this is all backwards and I'm a prime candidate for purchasing a Ingitech but at the moment I need to get the damn thing running and the Ignitech is a bit much at the moment as I think I'd have to update the stator and rotor too.

The pipe is a big step up from the old one, It should be scavenging a lot better than it was.


So, to finally get the the actual question, what is a good (safe) starting point for setting an ignition that has no curve on a bike that is 'unknown' as far as timing requirement goes?



I'm probably going to start at around 14 degrees, standard is 1 mm which works out to be 14.6 degrees BTDC.

speedpro
13th October 2013, 08:29
Depending on your combustion chamber and the squish velocity and flame propagation rates, the flat timing curve might not be as bad as you expect. My MB is a little dated with the chamber shape having a small radius from the squish into the bowl. On the dyno we found 15deg BTDC timing was good over the whole rev range, except maybe just for a tiny bit right at the top where we backed it off a smidge to help keep it revving. The requirement for 15 degrees is a fact measured on the dyno, the reason is only theoretical.

koba
13th October 2013, 08:48
Depending on your combustion chamber and the squish velocity and flame propagation rates, the flat timing curve might not be as bad as you expect. My MB is a little dated with the chamber shape having a small radius from the squish into the bowl. On the dyno we found 15deg BTDC timing was good over the whole rev range, except maybe just for a tiny bit right at the top where we backed it off a smidge to help keep it revving. The requirement for 15 degrees is a fact measured on the dyno, the reason is only theoretical.

True.

I guess fuel is going to make a difference too.

I'm going to take a punt on 14 and work from there.
I'll be drowning it in fuel to start with.

F5 Dave
13th October 2013, 12:34
I've been playing a bit Mike, I'll email you up a curve sometime, might help, might not. Picked me up a little around 10. I'm just off to dyno with pj to try? Should have read up more, there are two numbers. I'm assuming they turn off solenoid and turn it back on after. But doesn't seem to draw any current with engine not running so maybe a silent 1000 rpm turn on, is a newer feature? I remember Wob saying about truth table to avoid starting issues running capacitor set up. Fibd out soon

wobbly
13th October 2013, 14:20
TD3 is Brett Eaton and the Frepin will be on the dyno end of this week.
Will post a couple of pics when I get the stingers/mufflers fitted.

koba
13th October 2013, 16:17
I had a bit of testing, a good few laps and no piston holes.

I went Waay rich and dialed it back progressively, I got to the same main and needle spot as the last melt down and it still wouldn't rev out.
Closed the plug gap a bit and Boom! goes great.

I'll flirt going a bit richer again and look at why the spark isn't so meaty.
I think my earthing might be substandard.

This bike is such a cock-tease, I got it running smooth just as we had to leave.

I'm so glad I've picked up enough experience to go for that plug gap rather than going leaner and leaner...

TZ350
13th October 2013, 18:53
Well that is Sundays racing at Mt Wellington done and dusted.

In F5 I took what may have been the most powerful 50 there and rode it to last place..... :laugh:

F4 A grade was two strokes :first::second::third: followed by Gavin FXR150 and Glen on Giggles Team ESE Dark Side FXR150 Special and 8 other FXR150's, in both points races.

Team ESE's rider Rick took 2nd both times, in the first race after a very cheeky passing move and again after a bit of luck in traffic during the last lap of the second race.

Best lap times of the 2T's (racing clockwise)
R1
Nathanael Diprose 30.024
Rick Ford 29.944
David Diprose 30.318
and 4T's
Gavin Veltmeyer 30.572
Glen Orwin 30.646
R2
Nathanael Diprose 29.901
Rick Ford 30.475
David Diprose 30.381
and 4T's
Gavin Veltmeyer 30.758
Glen Orwin 30.523

288567

Points to date, supplied by David Diprose

fatbastd
14th October 2013, 05:09
TD3 is Brett Eaton and the Frepin will be on the dyno end of this week.
Will post a couple of pics when I get the stingers/mufflers fitted.

Excellent: been wating to see the Frepin rsult for months...

Didn't realise Brett E had a TD3. Real or RD-TD-ised? Wil see in a couple of weeks, perhaps.

wobbly
14th October 2013, 07:20
Bretts thing is a modded RD, not sure exactly what cylinders are on it now.
It had the chrome fall off the original set we used when it was first built last year and now the crank is apart as well.

The Frepin TZ400 cylinder is giving me grief as well,I hope to have it back mid week to fit and then dyno.
RT stayed here a couple of weeks ago and pronounced the trick suspension to be the ducks nuts on the clickers and the
rider sag is on the money so I am hoping the time needed for THD to dial that all in will be minimal.

F5 Dave
14th October 2013, 09:05
Well I'm still a little confused by the PJ settings on the ignitech. When connected to the PC the PJ solenoid seems to activate at the first number (No TPS fitted yet) closing the PJ. Not sure what the 2nd number is for. Seems backward to what I was expecting. Operates fine with Test function.


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RomeuPT
14th October 2013, 12:17
Hello to everyone.

Well, the ignitech company really needs new instalations, but the Europe old industrial areas are almost has old as NZ first settlement's :D

I am bringing a question:

Had been looking to make a pipe for Aprilia RS 125, a friend of mine bring one with an arrow exhaust. The bike have max power at 9500/10000 and does not rev much past 11000 after 3rd gear, ok normal for a 125 stock road bike. But the Arrow Pipe, seems to be around the total lenght of ~880 mm or less and has a huge 129mm belly outside diameter.

Shouldn't a pipe for a 125cc at 19* exhaust timing with 880mm lenght have a peak around 11000? isn't it a too big belly for stock rotax 122? What is the case with this engine?

Thanks

2T Institute
14th October 2013, 13:12
Hello to everyone.

Well, the ignitech company really needs new instalations, but the Europe old industrial areas are almost has old as NZ first settlement's :D

I am bringing a question:

Had been looking to make a pipe for Aprilia RS 125, a friend of mine bring one with an arrow exhaust. The bike have max power at 9500/10000 and does not rev much past 11000 after 3rd gear, ok normal for a 125 stock road bike. But the Arrow Pipe, seems to be around the total lenght of ~880 mm or less and has a huge 129mm belly outside diameter.

Shouldn't a pipe for a 125cc at 19* exhaust timing with 880mm lenght have a peak around 11000? isn't it a too big belly for stock rotax 122? What is the case with this engine?

Thanks

No doubt the 122/123 is a tricky engine to get some dcent HP out of. The standard pipe wors well if you do 2 things 1) cut 30-35mm from the belly 2) roll or machine a insert to take the stinger dia down to 23mm. That gives a peak close to 12,000 they do not like any more than 8deg after peak otherwise it kills the over rev. If you really want to have fun install a 115mm rod.

F5 Dave
14th October 2013, 13:13
I read a story on Acrapovic factory & they kept the factory & trucks looking nondescript as they were worried about the $ value of Ti & finished product travelling in & out of the gates.

wobbly
14th October 2013, 18:59
Well the issue is that the Ignitech is as confused as you are.
The Honda function cant work at all without a TPS as that is like a woman going to work without shoes.
Read the truth table its based on.
Initially we have RPM below 9500 and TPS below 75% - in this case nothing happens ie fuel flows no matter what.
In the second column we have a tick in the box giving anything below 9500 and 75% TPS initiates power to the solenoid ie no fuel
Also in this column is the second, lower box with no tick. So - above 9500 and above 75% there is no power to the solenoid ie fuel flows.
Moving to the 3rd column - top box is a tick as well as the lower box.Thus no matter what TPS, above 12500 the solenoid is activated ie no fuel.
What is there to not get - apart from the fact not wearing cool new shoes is a criminal act.

koba
14th October 2013, 19:06
the fact not wearing cool new shoes is a criminal act.

I'm fucked.
Lock me up.

husaberg
14th October 2013, 19:32
Well the issue is that the Ignitech is as confused as you are.
The Honda function cant work at all without a TPS as that is like a woman going to work without shoes.
Read the truth table its based on.
Initially we have RPM below 9500 and TPS below 75% - in this case nothing happens ie fuel flows no matter what.
In the second column we have a tick in the box giving anything below 9500 and 75% TPS initiates power to the solenoid ie no fuel
Also in this column is the second, lower box with no tick. So - above 9500 and above 75% there is no power to the solenoid ie fuel flows.
Moving to the 3rd column - top box is a tick as well as the lower box.Thus no matter what TPS, above 12500 the solenoid is activated ie no fuel.
What is there to not get - apart from the fact not wearing cool new shoes is a criminal act.

All of a sudden I have lost my train of thought.
<img src="http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2012/09/08/article-0-14E9524F000005DC-466_634x481.jpg" height="180px"/>

Re the Gear encoder Honda and Aprilia used a different setting for each gear to allow for the cooling effect of the airflow at higher speed? is that right?
I think i can remember Frits or Jan saying they eventually went to GPS or was that only re the ignitio curves or both.
i remember posting a suzuki GN gear encoder a long long while back

RomeuPT
15th October 2013, 00:42
No doubt the 122/123 is a tricky engine to get some dcent HP out of. The standard pipe wors well if you do 2 things 1) cut 30-35mm from the belly 2) roll or machine a insert to take the stinger dia down to 23mm. That gives a peak close to 12,000 they do not like any more than 8deg after peak otherwise it kills the over rev. If you really want to have fun install a 115mm rod.

Thanks.

Peak close to 12000? I am really making a pike for a stock, 28 carb Aprilia :/..... my ideia is get the peak at about 10000 / 10300 so would rev well to 11500 as the stock ignition seems to not let the bike go further. But for these RPM's I would think about 960/950 tot lenght, or the aprilia gases are cold, or the stock stinguer is very big and does not alow the pipe to heat much inside.

Is there someone here who have any good clue that can post?

This is really a stock or little tuned aprilia pipe.

Thanks

wobbly
15th October 2013, 07:00
My understanding of the gear encoder was that it related simply to the acceleration rate in the lower gears.
The engine can withstand a heap more advance whilst spinning up real fast, but in 4th 5th 6th the rate slows due to aero and
deto sets in with too much advance wound in.
The cooling effect may have some relevance but not as marked as the accel rate I believe.

Still dont understand why anyone would wear shoes like that whilst in bed.
But then I dont even wear them at all, not having any feet on the ground.

F5 Dave
15th October 2013, 11:21
Well the issue is that the Ignitech is as confused as you are.
The Honda function cant work at all without a TPS as that is like a woman going to work without shoes.
Read the truth table its based on.
Initially we have RPM below 9500 and TPS below 75% - in this case nothing happens ie fuel flows no matter what.
In the second column we have a tick in the box giving anything below 9500 and 75% TPS initiates power to the solenoid ie no fuel
Also in this column is the second, lower box with no tick. So - above 9500 and above 75% there is no power to the solenoid ie fuel flows.
Moving to the 3rd column - top box is a tick as well as the lower box.Thus no matter what TPS, above 12500 the solenoid is activated ie no fuel.
What is there to not get - apart from the fact not wearing cool new shoes is a criminal act.

Ahh, so the lower row is Above 75% & the upper row is Below 75%?

That is confusing. But now I look at the 2D map with TPS ticked it is consistent.


Actually I'd assumed that because the TPS wasn't ticked it was greyed out.

So I need to get the TPS fitted before I continue seems to be the answer. Silly me.

However
Currently the PJ flows whenever it feels like it. if I created a special chart like below.

1. Below 1200rpm solenoid off for easy starting. But then turns on closing PJ
2. Starts flowing after say 8000.
3. Turns off just after peak for some of those Pennies from Heaven I'm chasing.

Will this make sense until I have a TPS sorted out?

wobbly
15th October 2013, 14:18
No sense at all.
If you want to fool the ECU into following the truth table without a TPS fitted then feed the 5V ref out directly back into the TPS pin.
Then the ECU will think you have full throttle all the time.
Set the TPS to max mV at 100%.
Set the table to have TPS at 101 and 102 and it will do what you want thinking you ride like Lorenzo.

F5 Dave
15th October 2013, 14:45
Ahh, I've just been reading up on TPS setup, thanks that makes sense. Thanks.
I have a TPS but have to sort out a reliable setup with space avail (no chance of fitting an RS/RGV one + people want a zillion for them these days).


. . .Set the table to have TPS at 101 and 102 and it will do what you want thinking you ride like Lorenzo.
So the Ignitech will think I'm cool? Awesome.

Drew
15th October 2013, 16:37
Ahh, I've just been reading up on TPS setup, thanks that makes sense. Thanks.
I have a TPS but have to sort out a reliable setup with space avail (no chance of fitting an RS/RGV one + people want a zillion for them these days).


So the Ignitech will think I'm cool? Awesome.Cable splitter and a remote wheel with the TPS is the easiest way, shirley?

F5 Dave
15th October 2013, 17:31
Have all the bits and bearings to remote it under seat. Just need to machine and assemble and make a lever arrangement and spring.

Grumph
15th October 2013, 19:15
Didn't I read somewhere that when people using customer RS250's needed a tps they ran a 3rd carb with one fitted....tucked the carb away somewhere out of the way. Quick and dirty but would work.

F5 Dave
15th October 2013, 19:29
I'm not made of money for flash carbs esp not spare ones.i have the $30 tps, just been lots of other things to be done. Which is why I should stop tapping here and head down to garage

husaberg
15th October 2013, 20:22
I'll bite what is the 30 dollar TPS.is it off a car?
I had a look in my carb box i guess the NSR was a remote one or mine are off a 21 rather than a 28 or what ever.

OH edit Later it was like a car set up off the spindle
<img src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XUH0W5A6v0c/TiH680i9E2I/AAAAAAAAAiU/GBrtSLjdNjc/s1600/IMGP2279.JPG" height="240px"/>

I actually had a quick look at the PWK not sure how it works.....
<img src="http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcS15UzzlneFkwmsjEG1wPc9cyxX3JZ35 jZ_tf_2RgNSqq5t7PwPnnQA-UTQ" height="240px"/>
must google exploded diagrams.

oh look at this KTM ran the PWK shorty with solenoid PJ but with a greater downdraft


but still the SX is twice as much as the YZ.re KTM It may be hard to see in this picture but it measured right around 28* on the SX.
<img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii174/hallsy_album/004-4.jpg" height="240px"/><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii174/hallsy_album/007-5.jpg" height="240px"/>
Pretty sure Wob mentioned something about mods to the pick up as well as the PJ inlet earlier?

F5 Dave
15th October 2013, 22:17
Interesting about SX carb. Either way tps is where shock on NF4.

Haufen
16th October 2013, 04:22
Honda Collection Hall at Tochigi, JP (http://goo.gl/maps/r7cwM)

F5 Dave
16th October 2013, 11:04
Of course I've just worked out that I already have the TPS (from a SueBarrRoo, whatever that is) & the loom I fitted connectors for it in anticipation for when I got around to fitting one.

I'll fit it, & set it up for max & tape it in position; Instant Lorenzo,

or Gardner if you think in old terms like I do.

cotswold
16th October 2013, 19:51
Avalon living the dream....

F5 Dave
17th October 2013, 08:14
She looks like she's grown taller.

wobbly
17th October 2013, 09:10
Na, its the stiletto race boots she bought in Italy.

F5 Dave
17th October 2013, 09:14
Could be useful

Get too close: - Kick- "Hole in the Radiator for you my friend"

husaberg
19th October 2013, 18:20
Those pictures are all in English :msn-wink:. And in case you are interested in "Jamathi's and other 50cc racers of the 60's" I've got a lot more photo material. Not just Jamathi, but also (in alphabetical order) Bultaco, DKW, Jawa, KTM, Kreidler, MZ, Ossa, Rumi, Suzuki and Yamaha, from 50 cc triples to 750 cc fours, all two-strokes.
I've even got pictures of the works Hondas (both two- and foul-stroke).

Mental Trousers and yours truly just managed to work out a way to upload big files. Momentarily there is 37 MB of Aprilia information hovering in the cloud, waiting to be downloaded. Once you unzip it, it's over 70 MB.... And we could do the same with those other brands I just mentioned. Only if you are interested, of course....


Bummmmmmmp have we be good enough................?

Frits Overmars
19th October 2013, 23:20
Bummmmmmmp have we be good enough................?Yes you have, my son (how old are you anyway?) But the method we used back then was so complicated, not to say mental, that I forgot how it went.
I'll work out a simpler way, but not now; too many things to do.

husaberg
20th October 2013, 01:07
Yes you have, my son (how old are you anyway?) But the method we used back then was so complicated, not to say mental, that I forgot how it went.
I'll work out a simpler way, but not now; too many things to do.

I am 39 years old (but its my birthday soon) so that would be a great present. Is there any more progress reports on the CVT and open all hours (24/7)

TZ350
20th October 2013, 07:26
... in case you are interested in "Jamathi's and other 50cc racers of the 60's" I've got a lot more photo material. Not just Jamathi, but also (in alphabetical order) Bultaco, DKW, Jawa, KTM, Kreidler, MZ, Ossa, Rumi, Suzuki and Yamaha, from 50 cc triples to 750 cc fours, all two-strokes. I've even got pictures of the works Hondas (both two- and foul-stroke).

I too would love to see the photo collection, especially the 50's.

Muciek
20th October 2013, 08:19
Originally Posted by Frits Overmars View Post
... in case you are interested in "Jamathi's and other 50cc racers of the 60's" I've got a lot more photo material. Not just Jamathi, but also (in alphabetical order) Bultaco, DKW, Jawa, KTM, Kreidler, MZ, Ossa, Rumi, Suzuki and Yamaha, from 50 cc triples to 750 cc fours, all two-strokes. I've even got pictures of the works Hondas (both two- and foul-stroke).

I also can't wait to see them :D
Question to Frits Have you ever seen a Czech road racer MTX , maybe you have some pictures? https://www.facebook.com/polskie.motocyklesportowe/media_set?set=a.153665331429359.30761.100003576802 453&type=3 here is album of my friend with some pictures.

Frits Overmars
20th October 2013, 09:03
Question to Frits Have you ever seen a Czech road racer MTX , maybe you have some pictures? https://www.facebook.com/polskie.motocyklesportowe/media_set?set=a.153665331429359.30761.100003576802 453&type=3 No, I have never seen one, Muciek. But you could ask my friend Martijn Stehouwer of Emotracing: http://www.emot.nl/fotoalbum/
He specializes in eastern-european two-stroke racers.

Frits Overmars
20th October 2013, 11:27
I am 39 years old (but its my birthday soon) so that would be a great present. Is there any more progress reports on the CVT and open all hours (24/7)So you'll be forty then. We cannot let that go by without some celebration, so I zipped hundreds of pictures and told Mental Trousers where he can download them and make them available to the forum.
A word of warning: there may be copyrights on a number of pictures, so please not spread them beyond this forum. Happy Birthday, Husa.

husaberg
20th October 2013, 11:51
So you'll be forty then. We cannot let that go by without some celebration, so I zipped hundreds of pictures and told Mental Trousers where he can download them and make them available to the forum.
A word of warning: there may be copyrights on a number of pictures, so please not spread them beyond this forum. Happy Birthday, Husa.

Thanks Frits :wings:being handy on the maths now that could come in handy in your line of work:msn-wink:
Thanks in advance to Mental Trousers as well.

I was going to suggest you mail them over as i had just minted a new stamp
<img src="http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=288733&d=1382172063" height="110px"/>

As for turning 40 soon,not so much excitement over that,I might have a beer when the NSR engine arrives though....hint hint
While i have you, assuming you were about then, what were the major changes between the RSR and RSW engines, just detail re the porting or subtle changes everywhere. I only just noticed how much power was allegedly gained on the works RSV250 from 1990- 1994=13hp. That's a huge leap.
Those Italian bike are always so beautiful
http://www.2-takt.net/000angol/20bikes/02racing/125/pictures/aprilia/pics/Aprilia%20RSR%20125%202000.jpg

TZ350
20th October 2013, 15:01
288766

BOB 2013 the Ruapuna B track has got to be the best small bike track in the Country and the BOB combined with the Greymouth street race next weekend would have to be the premier meetings of the year,.

288769

The best food I have seen at any race track.

288768

I never thought I would say this, but I have become a paid up member of the GN125 fan club. Great bike, reputedly, a little down on power compared to the CBR150 that won but the GN is the sort of bike I like. Home made, fast, handles, well developed engine with some interesting ideas and in the race it went the distance. Kick gave me one of his spare clutches which I intend using in my new engine for the Beast.

I rode Yow Lings RG150 (Purple Death) in the pre89 and Development Class, finished last each time but accidentally (year right) found myself out in a Bucket race and finished lower mid field so was happy about that. At the end of one of the pre89 races I found myself giving Yow Ling a lift back from the Hairpin after he had a mishap with his own RG150.

288770

A big thanks to Yow Ling for letting me ride Purple Death, the B track is a fast technical track and at the end of the day I was glad to be able to hand the RG back in one piece.

288767

I was not that fast but I did get to see some excellent riding close up, like when Scout came past on her RS125 and dived between two big 4-Strokes as they peeled of for the Fulton Hogan corner.

Out on the track .... At first I went around using nearly every gear in the box but after a while as I got more used to the layout of the track I found I could get around using only fourth and fifth although I wondered about the wisdom of revving the RG out to the max and holding it there for a fair bit of the track between Pothole and Calford. The RG was much slower in sixth (125k) but would wind out to 145k in fifth at 12,500rpm (Red Line 13,000rpm). At the end of the day I was pretty pleased to be able to hand it back in one piece.


288771


The first corner after the Start Finish line is Pothole. At first I was changing down for this corner then later I could go around with just a dip of the throttle but I never managed to take it at full song all the way, like I am sure the fast boys do.

Calford Camtec is the Hairpin and some late breaking could close the gap here and the corner is quite wide so it allowed a deep in, sharp turn and good drive out.

Fulton Hogan was my problem corner, early in the day I got a good rear end slide on here and it sort of made me wary of it for the rest of the day. Fulton tightens up and the entry is very important if you don’t want to run up onto the ripple strip. I never got it right so I have unfinished business here and will have to come back next year.

Crown Lift Carousel was my favorite corner, its banked and you can get the power on early and just fair sweep around it, much faster than you think possible.

Keeping well out to the right exciting the Carousel set you up for the Flexoplass sweeper onto the back straight. All kneedown stuff, but I never did and got the fright of my life when I ground one of the foot pegs.

I just have to come back next year for the next BOB and then go over to Graymouth, great racing, great people.

TZ350
20th October 2013, 15:12
There were a lot of FXR150's there and quite a few interesting specials.

TZ350
20th October 2013, 15:17
More interesting bikes

TZ350
20th October 2013, 15:39
288785

BOB Start

288788

F5Dave Leads

288787

Diesel Pig going around the outside.

288784

The mighty GN

288786

The Carousel in the background then the drop into the sweeper.

288789

The entry to the sweeper was really scary fast. In fact I had my eyes shut most of the time I was riding around.

TZ350
20th October 2013, 16:37
Spent Sunday afternoon at the CHCH Air Force Museum. Free entry and they have a great Cafe with power points and free WiFi and realy good coffee.

288797288796288798288799288800

timg
20th October 2013, 19:22
288789


Glad to see you got a shot of me beating that pie eating poofta on the GN :laugh: Pesky bugga was there ready to pounce every time I tried to have a nanna nap. Had a good battle with Kick for the entire BOB.....the mighty FXR triumphed over the GN in the end :bleh:

Yow Ling
21st October 2013, 04:56
.....the mighty FXR triumphed over the GN in the end :bleh:

they always do

Drew
21st October 2013, 05:36
That number 34 GL is awesome. I spent Saturday working on mine to make it look like a flat tracker.

Wonder if that one has after market ignition though. Mine runs fine without a battery.

Flettner
21st October 2013, 09:54
<a href="http://s1056.photobucket.com/user/uniflow/media/IMG_1265_zpse10cd291.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_1265_zpse10cd291.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_1265_zpse10cd291.jpg"/></a>

First there was this

Flettner
21st October 2013, 09:58
<a href="http://s1056.photobucket.com/user/uniflow/media/IMG_1266_zps7dbad0e2.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_1266_zps7dbad0e2.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_1266_zps7dbad0e2.jpg"/></a>

And then this

Flettner
21st October 2013, 10:02
<a href="http://s1056.photobucket.com/user/uniflow/media/IMG_1267_zps70ad45ad.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_1267_zps70ad45ad.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_1267_zps70ad45ad.jpg"/></a>

Then after pouring a mould I cut and changed the shape to the curve I wanted

Flettner
21st October 2013, 10:13
<a href="http://s1056.photobucket.com/user/uniflow/media/IMG_1268_zps6033ea3f.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_1268_zps6033ea3f.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_1268_zps6033ea3f.jpg"/></a>

Then a female mould made to make more replicas

Flettner
21st October 2013, 10:22
<a href="http://s1056.photobucket.com/user/uniflow/media/IMG_1270_zps660433dc.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_1270_zps660433dc.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_1270_zps660433dc.jpg"/></a>
<a href="http://s1056.photobucket.com/user/uniflow/media/IMG_1269_zps0517cc8c.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_1269_zps0517cc8c.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_1269_zps0517cc8c.jpg"/></a>
<a href="http://s1056.photobucket.com/user/uniflow/media/IMG_1271_zps5018d683.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_1271_zps5018d683.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_1271_zps5018d683.jpg"/></a>

The exhaust core is taking shape.

F5 Dave
21st October 2013, 10:27
288785

BOB Start

288788

F5Dave Leads

. . .
Sorry I let the side down. Team 'old fat man on a 2 stroke' 0, Young skinny kid on an FXR 1.

TZ350
21st October 2013, 10:43
Then after pouring a mould I cut and changed the shape to the curve I wanted



Then a female mould made to make more replicas

Pattern making, this is very interesting and getting me interested in having a go myself.

What is the white material you used for the male part and the green material that the female mold was made from?

Flettner
21st October 2013, 10:43
<a href="http://s1056.photobucket.com/user/uniflow/media/IMG_1272_zps47817f2b.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_1272_zps47817f2b.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_1272_zps47817f2b.jpg"/></a>

This mould will be the sand core eventually, so this shape will be replicated in hard sand.
Where you don't want metal, you need sand ( a core ). This is what's called a core box.
To build a pattern like this you start with the cores first.

<a href="http://s1056.photobucket.com/user/uniflow/media/IMG_1275_zps3fae29f5.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_1275_zps3fae29f5.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_1275_zps3fae29f5.jpg"/></a>


Green stuff is bondi fill, just mix it up and press the part you want to copy into it. MUST wax the male part first.
White stuff is casting resin, two pot mix. Sets with a faithful size, no shrinkage or expansion.

F5 Dave
21st October 2013, 11:13
Looks pretty cool.

Frits Overmars
21st October 2013, 12:09
I'm getting more and more curious, Neil. I like the coolant passages through your exhaust bridges. And I noticed some design similarities :msn-wink:.
I was fortunate in not having to take the long way via wood, wax, bondi fill, casting resin and sand; I went directly from bits and bytes to AlSi12 (with more than a little help from my friends and the university of Dresden, Germany).

Flettner
21st October 2013, 13:21
Frits
Unfortunately we don't have a university of Dresden here in Eureka.
I don't think Universities here in NZ are particularly interested in this kind of work.
I like doing this stuff ( pattern making ) the old way and by showing the process off here maybe someone else might take up casting parts too, I'm still fascinated by this process even if it old.
Yes my cylinder may look the same but is quite different than your setup.
Yes the gap is for water cooling through the bridge.
nckm@wave.co.nz will contact me.
May we learn more about the "casting" ( metal part ) in the third picture?

Frits Overmars
21st October 2013, 22:34
I like doing this stuff ( pattern making ) the old way and by showing the process off here maybe someone else might take up casting parts tooBravo!


my cylinder may look the same but is quite different than your setup.Yes, I am extremely curious about your transfer ports.


May we learn more about the "casting" ( metal part ) in the third picture?You're right in putting quotation marks around this "casting" because it is not the pouring of molten metal. Nowadays everybody talks about 3D printing, but it is not printing either. 3D printing is building up an object by depositing drops of material where you need them.
The proces I used is called Selective Laser Melting. You don't deposit material; the material is already there; it is an even bed of fine metal powder. Then a laser locally melts the powder, after which another layer of powder is laid over the previous layer. Then the laser comes again; then the next powder layer comes, etc.
These videos may give you an impression:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iayfa1JJbxs (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iayfa1JJbxs)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=apZDtnzUq_o
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2aPIKpHwGYY

Flettner
22nd October 2013, 07:28
Yes I'm aware of this system, I've seen it before. Thought it might be useful to make pistons with metal changes toward the top. No, I'm more interested in what's inside the "casting", perhaps tangential exhaust ports?
My cylinder layout will become clear as the cylinder patterns take shape. Water core next.
TZ, this is the two pot casting resin I use ( the white stuff ) and the tin is full of paint on waxing agent.
not to be eaten for lunch.


<a href="http://s1056.photobucket.com/user/uniflow/media/IMG_0492.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_0492.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0492.jpg"/></a>

Frits Overmars
22nd October 2013, 08:16
May we learn more about the "casting" ( metal part ) in the third picture?
........................................
Yes I'm aware of this system.... No, I'm more interested in what's inside the "casting", perhaps tangential exhaust ports? I see; I thought you were curious about the selective laser melting technique but you were really showing an interest in my cylinder, just as I am interested in yours:shifty:


There's nothing tangential; all exhaust ports and all transfer ports are radial. I like to keep things simple, you know. Besides, tangentials wouldn't work in my layout.
Too bad I can't attach ZIP-files here; otherwise I could have shown you a series of slices through the cylinder. I will try to find a solution to that.

Flettner
22nd October 2013, 10:22
I feel guilty for asking, but that would be great if you can.

TZ350
22nd October 2013, 16:01
I am learning as I go and have found that in setting up an EFI there are a number of things to consider.

1) Start Conditions range of Temperature and engine RPM where start conditions stop.
2) Starting cold or warm starting at cranking speed
3) Transition from cranking speed to low running warm up speed.
4) Warm Up at higher speeds like, while blipping the throttle.
5) VE Map Volumetric Efficiency also called Speed Density or Load map, the axis are RPM/MAP
6) Alpha N map, the axis are TPS/RPM
7) A way of switching between or Blending the VE and Alpha-N maps


The EcoTrons EFI has some basic fuel factor settings and curves associated with getting the engine started and warmed up.

Global Factor, ranges from 0 to 4 , < 1 it leans things off, > 1 it richens things up.
Start Factor only applies at cranking speed and its value reduces to 1 at 1000 rpm
After Start Factor lasts 60 sec and is the transition from Starting to Warming Up
Warm Up Factor lasts up to 360 sec, shorter if the engine warms up quickly.

These Fuel Factors are multiplied together by the CPU to dynamically get the Fueling value required.

Start Fuel = Start Factor * Global Factor
After Start Fuel = After Start Factor * Warm Up Factor * Global Factor
Warm Up Fuel = Warm Up Factor * Global Factor

After the motor has warmed up the Fueling is governed by the Global Factor and Load (VE/MAP) or Alpha-N (TPS/RPM) map.

Fuel = Global Factor * Load (VE/MAP)map.
or
Fuel = Global Factor * Alpha-N (TPS/RPM)map.

The Global Factor is just a quick and dirty way of leaning or enriching things up. When all the maps are OK the Global Factor should have been able to be set at 1.

I have been able to get the Beast to start and run roughly during warm up but after a few minutes when it gets to running temperature it splutters to a stop.

288969

When its warming up the bottom middle gauge “Fuel PW1 Milli-Seconds” which is showing the fuel injector pulse width for injector 1 was running at 2milli seconds then it jumped up to 3.5 and the motor stoped.

288968

This suggests to me that the first (load) map is set too rich as indicated by the dotted line on the right of my graph.

F5 Dave
22nd October 2013, 16:34
Maybe you could pool this rich gas mixture into a collector & run a cotton wick up through it to give you some adjustment of the mixture

Flettner
22nd October 2013, 19:36
Tangential, no I suppose not. Fuel air would tend to swirl out the exhaust on the way up the cylinder.
Not having a clean back of the cylinder to use as a wall, as a normal cylinder, central plume is how it is then ? How is this cylinder performing? Assuming it's all finished and running now?

My cylinder is using a tangential transfer system, just like the system in my two piston ( one cylinder ) uniflow. Two different styles of ports in tandem, repeated all the way round the cylinder. Six wide transfers in total.

Progress has to fit in with work, you know the curse that keeps it all going.

<a href="http://s1056.photobucket.com/user/uniflow/media/IMG_1280_zps32a3bbff.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_1280_zps32a3bbff.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_1280_zps32a3bbff.jpg"/></a>

pete376403
22nd October 2013, 19:52
Too bad I can't attach ZIP-files here; otherwise I could have shown you a series of slices through the cylinder. I will try to find a solution to that.

Dropbox - free, gets you a fair bit of storage, you can select who you want to share files with

www.dropbox.com

speedpro
22nd October 2013, 21:27
If you have the gauges displayed while the motor is running you can open "Fuel System" and then After-start and Warm-up factors. The actual value being used will be highlighted. I see two possibilities with the problem you have where it cuts out suddenly as it warms up.
If it cuts out at the same time after you start it, from the same temperature, then I'd look at the values in the "After-start" table as it could be suddenly dropping fuel out after a set time.
If it cuts out at the same temp each time then I'd look at the "Warm-up" table at that temp to see if there is a big decrease in fuel at that temp transition.
On the 4-stroke tables I'm using I was amazed how much extra fuel was injected at start and warmup. I'm supposing the 2-stroke tables are similar.
I've actually reduced the fuel multipliers a bit with no apparent ill-effect. Reducing it too much makes response from low revs a bit sad.

SwePatrick
25th October 2013, 19:47
As i said before,, run it rich when it finally has started
get it running without any compansations at all.

When heating up you will notice that engine is getting richer and richer(write upp values).
Lean off so it runs fine when warm(write up values)

shut it off.

then add cold compensations to the level it started before all in all added together.
basemap,and compensations together to the level where it started with no compensations.

Rgds

Yow Ling
26th October 2013, 07:29
Yes I'm aware of this system, I've seen it before. Thought it might be useful to make pistons with metal changes toward the top. No, I'm more interested in what's inside the "casting", perhaps tangential exhaust ports?
My cylinder layout will become clear as the cylinder patterns take shape. Water core next.
TZ, this is the two pot casting resin I use ( the white stuff ) and the tin is full of paint on waxing agent.
not to be eaten for lunch.


Hi Flettner, I guess these materials are available from nuplex, what about the other casting materials like the greensand , the parting sand etc where are these sourced from. Can you make some suggestions on the best materials for home use , you tubing has given me some idea , but why reinvent the wheel.

husaberg
26th October 2013, 13:11
Hi Flettner, I guess these materials are available from nuplex, what about the other casting materials like the greensand , the parting sand etc where are these sourced from. Can you make some suggestions on the best materials for home use , you tubing has given me some idea , but why reinvent the wheel.

Flettner is of course the expert here. Def not me

I have a collection of resources i will add (later)which are quite interesting in regards to home casting.

The Myford bo (http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLD2A7F5FD2D3C3088)y and mrPete22 (http://www.youtube.com/user/mrpete222?feature=watch) stuff is worth watching all the videos in the series


Cores etc

http://www.alloyavenue.com/vb/archive/index.php/t-6993.html?
http://www.bronzecasting.co.uk/8_sandcasting/sodsil_11.html
http://www.imarketingcenter.com/coresand.html

materials

http://www.industrialsands.co.nz/order.html
http://www.industrialsands.co.nz/resin.html
http://www.metcast.com/index.php/catalogsearch/result/?q=Liquid+Sodium+Silicate+Core
http://www.cobcraft.co.nz/StudioTools/StudioTools.cfm?tooltype=Liquid Wax&toolcategory=Liquids
http://www.cobcraft.co.nz/studiotools/StudioTools.cfm?tooltype=SodiumSilicate&toolcategory=Liquids
http://www.pottersclay.co.nz/rawmat.htm
http://www.ryanoresins.com/products/
How to
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QFLArEHFFHo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N8DGkC8O9CY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h-c4_Ukqgx4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wG9JzeZYPi4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khEvhjlh_SM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SQt2RBzepNA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8tqDL7H-C-o
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TekdQlmvkiU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hCBRfrPV8BY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yosykQ-o994

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OedpFHYIkDA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bzKi4g7jD6I
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khEvhjlh_SM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dt2mqlwMyZU&list=SPD2A7F5FD2D3C3088
http://castinghobbyfaq.bareboogerhost.com/kbond.shtml
http://home.comcast.net/~oddkins/foundrycasting.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0rU2aohquj4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QWGNl7ijA7g
Vinamold

http://fibreglassshop.co.nz/products/view/5/48/meltable-vinyl
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dZGq1zCl4yM&list=UUKLIIdKEpjAnn8E76KP7sQg


Equipment
http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/guest_georgemuller01.html
http://www.ecplabchem.co.nz/content.asp?function=viewprd&prd_id=242959&xid=1&orgfn=sodium-silicate-39-solution-1-l
http://www.foundry101.com/6.htm
http://www.budgetcastingsupply.com/index.htm

Furnace
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jqvWeO6YEZk&feature=endscreen&NR=1
http://www.dansworkshop.com/2008/03/homebuilt-electric-melting-furnace-2/
http://www.submarineboat.com/casting_furnaces.htm#Flower_Pot_Furnace
http://www.flamingfurnace.com/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=Q0HTH2nq2nM&feature=endscreen
http://myfordboy.blogspot.co.nz/p/myfordboys-furnace.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T4SdKN-Kq58

Flettner
26th October 2013, 20:50
Husaberg, you are a wealth of knowledge, and certainly a resource!

I get all my sand and stuff from Thames Foundry, he also pours my moulds now after our little home foundry accident.

I'm out of pattern making mode for the next few days as I'm preparing the F9 for round two of this years VMX ( now carbed ). I have lost a lot of interest in this bike now the EFI is out of it and most of my needles and jets have been modified for ethanol. I have to run it on petrol now.
I'll have to find a new bike to EFI.

husaberg
26th October 2013, 21:16
Husaberg, you are a wealth of knowledge, and certainly a resource!

I get all my sand and stuff from Thames Foundry, he also pours my moulds now after our little home foundry accident.

I'm out of pattern making mode for the next few days as I'm preparing the F9 for round two of this years VMX ( now carbed ). I have lost a lot of interest in this bike now the EFI is out of it and most of my needles and jets have been modified for ethanol. I have to run it on petrol now.
I'll have to find a new bike to EFI.


Google while fun unfortunately isn't the same as doing it, like you do, but it is all great background stuff.
I thought it would give a bit of background and lower the level of silly questions for you.
I am not sure where it is but one of the videos had the full workshop cabinet and table set up which was rather neat.
Also the K bond sand (http://castinghobbyfaq.bareboogerhost.com/kbond.shtml) is something i would like to try out. Love that it uses two stroke oil.........
From memory i think you said you usually do a steel tool and then do the work with Resin sand.
It isn't until i actually seen the all the core patterns in the flesh that it fully made sense to me how it all works.
But i guess the two stroke cylinder is one of the more complicated casting/pattern making jobs.
I think you should do a run of the variable disk valves (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=281189&d=1365605500) Neil.

Why the Petrol have they banned the Alcohol as well Neil


I guess the wife has not quite forgiven you yet for the flammable sheep incident yet:mad:

I still would like to tag along for a day with you up in Thames.
but 60KG of carry on luggage make life a little difficult at the moment.

husaberg
28th October 2013, 19:58
Have i killed the thread again.

Hello Neil have you ever noticed (cause i never did) that the current New Zealand MX rules for MX 1 and MX2 are now equal for 2 and 4 strokes.

That 360 Rotary valve engine you were doing on the 2 stroke mx thread maybe would be awesome for a 360cc MX2 racer. You are onto something there:niceone:

AndreasL
28th October 2013, 22:23
Phuu! :sweatdrop

Finally made it through the whole thread. It took a while...but well worth it.

A big thank you to TeeZee and his ESE team for doing this in public.

Thanks to all Bucketers inspiring others what can be done with some common sense and a lot of work.

As icing on the cake we are priviliged to have imput from some of the best in the area of 2-stroke tuning.
Frits and wobbly, I admire your unselfishness and time spent reveling things one only could imagine to get acces to in the past. Dont know how to thank you enough for that.

After reading this thread I now know I realy want that Ignitech I found at the net some time ago and that its a really good product.
The same goes for EngMod2T. One of few SW that seems to do it right. And afordable at the same time! If used by wobbly with great success I know that its not the SW that will be the limiting factor when I get my own copy.

I allso found good links to some simple SW solutions for dynos. The mech has never been a big issue. The 010101 have though. So IF it ever will happen, its much thanks to this great thread.

Winters comming up at my side of the globe = Dark and cold. Hope to turn some of your inspiration in to real projects.

Regards
Andreas

Flettner
29th October 2013, 07:39
Husaberg, yes the 360 engine has a 72mm stroke, so could be made into an MX2 as well. Trouble is all my projects have slowed right down at the moment, seem to always have the money OR the time but not both together!? Probably too many projects on the go a once as well.

koba
29th October 2013, 08:09
Probably too many projects on the go a once as well.

This is a constant issue, those of us with the inclination towards building things always seem to get too much on the go at once.
Better than being bored!

TZ350
29th October 2013, 21:55
Pretty sure with Ecotrons on a 2-stroke they only use the TPS and not the MAP sensor to determine fuel at any point, + revs of course.

Ok ... you might be right.

289183

With the VE map, MAP manifold absolute pressure vis RPM, after a week or two on the dyno I now think I have been barking up the wrong tree.

289182

And got myself well and truly snookered.

After Start and Warm Up, the usual thing would be to run the VE map, RPM vis MAP manifold absolute pressure then swap over to the Alpha-N TPS vis RPM load based map at larger throttle openings.

It made sense to me to use a VE map based on the actual manifold pressure because the MAP manifold pressure is quite variable at low throttle openings and is easily measurable but becomes less sensitive to throttle changes at larger throttle openings so at that point you swap to TPS based Alpha-N map near WOT.

I made my base maps and after a week or so of being able to change the fueling using the Global Fuel adjustment but not being able to get the same result by changing the VE map I have come to the conclusion the VE map is not actually being looked at by the EFI. While any changes to the Alpha-N load based map made a big difference.

Its not obvious from reading the manual but I have come to suspect your right, on a 2-Stroke Ecotrons only uses the Alpha-N load based map.

I will check this with Matt.

Haufen
30th October 2013, 05:22
Can you record pre-selected channels (like in INCA) for a later review to see what the ECU is doing? And do you have a lambda probe installed which could take over so that you can look at (or record) the fuel flow?

TZ350
30th October 2013, 05:48
Can you record pre-selected channels (like in INCA) for a later review to see what the ECU is doing? And do you have a lambda probe installed which could take over so that you can look at (or record) the fuel flow?

Yes Ecotrons can record pre-selected channels and we have a wideband O2 sensor kit but feared ruining the sensor by using it on a super rich smoky 2T running leaded Av Gas.

Flettner
30th October 2013, 09:20
With the LINK, we run the MAP off the exhaust ( load ). This runs a separate overlay graph that influences the fueling with load. Also this same pipe is connected to the fuel regulator.

speedpro
30th October 2013, 13:04
I've always thought running a mechanical variable fuel pressure regulator was not a good idea. Unless you are also monitoring fuel pressure you have introduced a variable. All good if you have confidence that the regulator reliably and consistently varies the fuel pressure against the manifold, or in this case exhaust, pressure. Just relying on the mechanical regulator to do the same thing all the time seemed hopeful.

Flettner
30th October 2013, 13:52
That's how almost all cars run their regulators, connected to the inlet manifold, turbo engines also.

Yow Ling
30th October 2013, 17:10
That's how almost all cars run their regulators, connected to the inlet manifold, turbo engines also.

I thought it was to maintain a constant pressure at the nozzle, add 10 lbs boost in the manifold so add 10 lbs to the fuel rail , your system seems to be for a different purpose, that could have been covered by a simple map/ exhaust pressure sensor and mapping accordingly. Why add mechanical complexity when you can use even more complicated electronics to do it.

Flettner
30th October 2013, 18:56
yes, you are right, this system is to maintain constant pressure differential at the injector. This effectively changes the mixture if you like, with out this the computer has to work a little harder on the calculations. This is a simple system to help maintain relativity, has worked like this for forty years now with high performance turbo engines relying on this simple piece of tech. It works as accurate and as fast as it needs to, in the real world. It would not work well connected to the twostroke intake, unless you used a sampling type of system. Only reads at a certain point of the intake process but that would be difficult to set up.
I can only speak from my experience with the Kawasaki, it worked for me ( connected to the mid section of the chamber )

TZ350
31st October 2013, 06:26
Below are the 2014 AMCC bucket race dates, as agreed with the Mt Wellington Kart Club.
In addition to fitting into the kart race calendar, these dates avoid clashes with all known bike race events.
Hopefully any new NI series dates can avoid clashing with these dates.
These can be published on the AMCC website, in the AMCC newsletter & anywhere else relevant.

08-09/02 bucket fun day
01-02/03 buckets R5
08-09/03 GP at Tokoroa
03-04/05 buckets R6
24-25/05 buckets R7 + Dominic Howe trophy
14-15/06 buckets final R8
05-06/07 buckets R1
02-03/08 buckets R2
06-07/09 buckets R3
11-12/10 buckets R4
15-16/11 bucket 2 hour
13/14/12 bucket fun day
(all the above are at Mt Wellington except for the Tokoroa GP)

Regards,
David Diprose

TZ350
31st October 2013, 15:16
I checked with Matt, and know we know that Ecotrons EFI software for 2T's comes with only the TPS Based Load map functioning and the Volumetric Efficiency map disabled even though we can still see it and make changes to it.

289220

support@ecotrons.com
Re: Does a 2T ignore the VE map?

For the 2 stroke engine, it use A/N MAP in default and disable the P/N MAP.
Because usually the 2 stroke engine intake pressure change is very small, phase judgment is not very accurate.
You can log some data and send to us, if the intake pressure change is bigger, we can help you switch to P/N MAP.
Thx
Ecotrons Tech Support 001

husaberg
31st October 2013, 16:05
Detonation
Might have been posted before (i looked but couldn't see it in the searchs)but it's pretty hoselistic approach here.
http://klemmvintage.com/deto.htm

http://www.klemmvintage.com/scoops%20left.jpg
I never really considered the heat produced from an ignition.

TZ350
31st October 2013, 18:12
Page 860 ......

Great little explanation of how a two stroke works. http://www.atvriders.com/articles/twostroke.html

TZ350
31st October 2013, 18:20
There were people working in the workshop tonight so it was not appropriate to run the dyno and make a lot of noise.

So started on another part of the project, better handling. By fitting the special front end that Kel got for me from Japan, light weight, pre load, compression and rebound adjustable cartridge forks.

They were a bit short in the steering stem for the MC18 frame. So I made up an alloy cup for the top bearing along the lines that Gigglebutton had suggested to me and cut away the top of the steering head to fit the cup. The plan is to temporarily tack weld the cup in place until the wheels are fitted then the alignment, rake and trail can be checked then the cup can be welded in permanently.

289231 289230 289229 289228.

wobbly
31st October 2013, 18:41
Weird that guys who profess to know plenty have remotely no idea about air flow dynamics.
Having a forward facing "scoop" is bullshit, note the size of the intake on the front of Moto GP bikes, in all classes.
The entry area is way smaller than the exit from the duct into the air box.
A small intake area with an expanding duct will utilise the intake velocity and convert it to increased pressure at the exit - basic thermodynamics.
Then dumping this into a resonant volume can increase efficiency dramatically - be it cooling air, or an airbox feeding the engine.
Same deal as the scoop on a P51, or a Spitfire or anything where getting air from a forward facing intake is actually supposed to do something.

husaberg
31st October 2013, 18:52
Good excuse to post a pic of a NSR500
the intake pick up is positioned to comply with the FIM rule of not being ahead of the Axel that's probably dates back to the banning of dustbin fairings.
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6_YU3DP73Rc/UD75_WBhvRI/AAAAAAAAeVY/rIDk59VqWMc/s1600/1997_NSR500_BO.jpghttp://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=255047&d=1326444961


these intakes wob will be more familiar with
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=251677&d=1322447613
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=251680&d=1322448168
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=251674&d=1322447361

Grumph
31st October 2013, 19:00
For years the FIM rule was nothing protruding forward of the axle - fairing or scoops etc. I think even now it's only something like 50mm permitted.

laughed at the kawa pic Hus, as i hope you intended...matching scoops for ignition and intake plus a weird one for the head.

Wob is of course correct - the cross sectional area of a runner from an air inlet should increase as length does.

husaberg
31st October 2013, 19:13
For years the FIM rule was nothing protruding forward of the axle - fairing or scoops etc. I think even now it's only something like 50mm permitted.

laughed at the kawa pic Hus, as i hope you intended...matching scoops for ignition and intake plus a weird one for the head.

Wob is of course correct - the cross sectional area of a runner from an air inlet should increase as length does.

narr....I didn't worry about the pic or the right or wrong of the pickup execution just the idea behind it. did ya follow the link......

Btw i bet Neil made that head here in NZ.
I can't find the pic of the Aprilia airbox forced air intake and Banjo.

..later Here a few few Aprilia (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=289232&d=1383205847) did inc the banjo.....
Ram air stuff inc how to set up a rig are here.
.....

I did have a nice little car piece on Vee mounting radiators intercoolers and airflow but i can't find it............Honda used it on the NSR from memory but i can't remember anyone else doing it.........

pete376403
31st October 2013, 19:45
For years the FIM rule was nothing protruding forward of the axle - fairing or scoops etc. I think even now it's only something like 50mm permitted.

laughed at the kawa pic Hus, as i hope you intended...matching scoops for ignition and intake plus a weird one for the head.

Wob is of course correct - the cross sectional area of a runner from an air inlet should increase as length does.

The right side scoop is not for intake - it is to provide cooling air for the cases utilising the original Bighorn air filter attachment

TZ350
31st October 2013, 21:13
I never really considered the heat produced from an ignition.

We have been dynoing an Aprilia 50 that still has its original flywheel/generator setup and the flywheel gets very hot, so hot you can't keep your hand on it. We were wondering if that is normal or not, maybe it is???. If its normal then it would be adding to the motors heat load for sure so some air would be very beneficial.

Grumph
1st November 2013, 05:52
We have been dynoing an Aprilia 50 that still has its original flywheel/generator setup and the flywheel gets very hot, so hot you can't keep your hand on it. We were wondering if that is normal or not, maybe it is???. If its normal then it would be adding to the motors heat load for sure so some air would be very beneficial.

If it's surviving the high temp is probably normal - though not of course helpful...

The classic case is grafting on chainsaw magnetos - they rapidly die from heatsoak after running as in their designed environment they run in the stream of air from a cooling fan.

husaberg
1st November 2013, 06:49
I guess no one did.......

But has anyone such as Jan Frits or Wob tried?

<img src="http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=288172&d=1380763310" height="240px"/>
I guess This is how the crankcase was sealed so it does have the odd modern application.
<img src="http://i56.servimg.com/u/f56/15/75/62/05/jbb_2513.jpg" height="240px"/><img src="http://i56.servimg.com/u/f56/15/75/62/05/jbb_2511.jpg" height="240px"/><img src="http://i56.servimg.com/u/f56/15/75/62/05/jbb_2510.jpg" height="240px"/>

I found an article on the Porsche air cooled turbos the other day Rob. The airflow requirement per HP was rather startling to say the least.......scarey very scarey

wobbly
1st November 2013, 08:53
That last pic of the BSL is interesting in that I spent hours of FEA to design the foot peg mount correctly.
The gearchange lever has a strain gauge built into the tip, for powershift switching.

cotswold
1st November 2013, 09:27
I was casting around on the interweb last night and spotted this, can anyone explain what the thinking behind this would have been??

F5 Dave
1st November 2013, 09:32
We've covered this picture before. Home-schooling or insufficient protein in the diet.

wobbly
1st November 2013, 09:39
I never knew what the definition of excessive was, but in relation to masturbation , that is a prime example.

Ocean1
1st November 2013, 10:49
I found an article on the Porsche air cooled turbos the other day Rob. The airflow requirement per HP was rather startling to say the least.......scarey very scarey

Did it cover the standard VW fan drive belt needing to slip at higher revs?

TZ350
1st November 2013, 11:04
289247

People laughed

289246

and said it was a stupid idea

289248

then said it wouldn't be allowed

289252

when I talked about wanting to run the fan with an axillary motor.

But wait ... I checked and yes I can ... :D ... now why would I want to do that ??????


I found an article on the Porsche air cooled turbos the other day Rob. The airflow requirement per HP was rather startling to say the least.......scarey very scarey

I would love to know more about the airflow (volume) requirements per hp.

peewee
1st November 2013, 14:31
hi mates. this is a great site you have with alot of good info. wondering if someone could offer alittle advice. i do all my own porting but im just a amatuer really. ive read alot about the rsa125 and believe ive made some errors on my own engine. ive set all the transfer port opening at 115 atdc (130 total) and with a 7* upward angle on A,B,C. D was around 55* upward if i recall. but im thinking 7* was a mistake.

would i be better off with C around 10* and A and B more about 20* ? and open C and D at 114* then A and B at 115 atdc ? thats what im thinking might work better but im not sure. also i included what the horizontal angles look like. i was thinking to put a curve in the C ports so theyre shooting more toward the front instead of at each other. any help is great thnx . still trying to make it through 800+ pages but im learning alot

also i believe ive made some errors in the exh port but ill save them questions for later

http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j357/doddledo/IMG_20131031_202607_zps70e5e698.jpg (http://s1081.photobucket.com/user/doddledo/media/IMG_20131031_202607_zps70e5e698.jpg.html)
http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j357/doddledo/mms_picture331_zps4e030262.jpg (http://s1081.photobucket.com/user/doddledo/media/mms_picture331_zps4e030262.jpg.html)

F5 Dave
1st November 2013, 14:55
presumably you're talking 250 size cylinder with all those transfers?

peewee
1st November 2013, 14:59
500cc single. drag racing in sand. running methanol. i just think my transfer angles are all wrong so i hope somebody can help

wobbly
1st November 2013, 15:42
Before I tell you what to do, is this a T port and is there room to pull the C port rear wall back, and put a hook in it.
Also what's the Ex timing now, and do you need wide range power, or do you spin the tyres so much in sand that the wide gear ratios dont make much difference.

peewee
1st November 2013, 15:55
what do you meen by Tport ? you meen transfer port ? yes the C port is a transfer port. exh timing is 200*, opens 80atdc. aux exh ports open 3* later. i dont need wide range power because you go full throttle and dump the clutch then just start clicking gears :2thumbsup . i can go toward the rear about 2mm more on the C port to put a hook. if i did some welding i could probly go even farther back.

husaberg
1st November 2013, 16:03
Did it cover the standard VW fan drive belt needing to slip at higher revs?
I posted the VW link ages ago where someone measured how efficient it is Ocean. (http://www.offroadvw.net/tech/wes/fan.html)



I would love to know more about the airflow (volume) requirements per hp.


Unfortunately Rob i can't find where the article was. i must not have bookmarked it but a quick google located this.(attached below)which is nowhere near as good.

I was emailing Rob today and he asked me if i took any pics of the Buckets at Greymouth...........er no i wish i had.
I didn't even think about it..... The RS/RGV100 sure was pretty though.
I did see this though amazing how much faster the extinguisher actually came out than it seemed at the time.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=ZJkA-_OCQVQ

peewee
2nd November 2013, 03:32
hey wobbly or frits or anyone else that may have advice. ive read all about the rsa125 and trying to apply some of its technology to my own cylinder. when dealing with with cylinders that have 2 extra tranfers ports like the photos above, is there any rules of thumb to follow regarding their vertical/horizontal angles ? thnx for any help

F5 Dave
2nd November 2013, 08:06
They are n't here every day so you may have to be patient while they try grind a living

F5 Dave
2nd November 2013, 08:10
..... The RS/RGV100 sure was pretty
Diesel' s? Yeah but he still hasn't redone the back of the tank. Sharp edges. Had bruising for days after riding it when it was MB powered.

husaberg
2nd November 2013, 08:14
Diesel' s? Yeah but he still hasn't redone the back of the tank. Sharp edges. Had bruising for days after riding it when it was MB powered.

He mentioned you were a bit soft.........But its an interesting tank shape for sure.The bike sure has plenty of 2 stroke bling.

wobbly
2nd November 2013, 09:41
OK so now we know its not a "Honda" T exhaust port as it has Aux Ex ports.
With the Ex up at 200* and a 3 port you should run reverse stagger.
This keeps the A port low so the front side of the Aux can also be low, but keep to a teardrop shape of the Aux to lessen the interaction with the A port exit stream.
The A port should have the roof filled to angle up at 25* with a duration around 128/130.The B and C ports higher at 130/132 and axial of around 15* on the B and 8* on the C.
The Boosts up at 55 with same timing as the B,C.
The rear wall of the C port weld and grind back as far as you can with a smooth radius hook pointing to 2/3 back from bore centre.
The Ex duct exit should be 85% of the 3 ports effective area, with an oval width the diameter of the total effective Ex port area - this then also becomes the header diameter.

Wolfie's Girl
2nd November 2013, 11:01
Hi all,
Been a while since my last post, but I have been sequestered in the garage working on my new motor... Slowly we are getting closer to the finish... The rear of the cylinder is pretty much finished I think, but I am waiting for the crank to be pressed together with the new RGV rod installed, and a judicious application of Mallory metal.. I can't move on with the exhaust porting obviously till I have that piece of the puzzle, so that I can work out the port timings... Here are a series of pics for your perusal...
The original cylinder....
289294


Unmasking the B transfers....
289297

The B transfers pretty much sorted... I had a few Oppsies, but I think that I will get away with them as they are not in the ring seal area...
289298

The new boost port...
289295289296

The cases...
289299

Wolfie's Girl
2nd November 2013, 11:04
Also...
And lastly the NF4 ignition grafted on...
289300

:soon:

Holy Crap I can't wait....

By the way much thanks going to Mike Chandler and F5 Dave for their ongoing intelectual input... They are deffinitely the brains of the outfit!!!

TZ350
2nd November 2013, 11:52
Its looking good, I am keen to hear how it goes.

peewee
2nd November 2013, 12:23
thnx for the help wobbly. the cylinder im using now is buggered with the wrong angles so rather than use 5lb of epoxy ill just start over with a virgin cylinder. ill draw some lines and post it to see what you think

F5 Dave
2nd November 2013, 13:45
Also...
And lastly the NF4 ignition grafted on...
289300

:soon:

Holy Crap I can't wait....

By the way much thanks going to Mike Chandler and F5 Dave for their ongoing intelectual input... They are deffinitely the brains of the outfit!!!
Well and obviously TZ for his GP development profile online.

Wolfie's Girl
2nd November 2013, 14:34
:not:But of course, much kudos and praise to the team ese project!
This would be a much more difficult project if not for those who have gone before and now share their hard earned knowledge... We stand on your shoulders... Thank you. :niceone:

TZ350
2nd November 2013, 21:05
289312

Speedpro clued me into starting a run with the gauges then laying a map over them and the active cell would be highlighted in yellow. He also thought that it might be possible to change the settings on the fly.

I tried it tonight but could not figure out how to change the settings while the motor was running but being able to see which cell needs a tickle will be helpful. I got a few runs in before the dyno battery spat the dummy, I will change it out and have another go tomorrow night.

Not sure about tonight's results but one thing is for sure, my 330cc injectors are too big, I have ordered some smaller ones and its realy a two person job setting the EFI up. I need some way of videoing the screen so I can see which cells to adjust after a run and I can't fiddle with the laptop and keep the bike running at the same time.

peewee
3rd November 2013, 04:42
hey wobbly one question on the aux exh ports. the cylinder casting isnt very thick in that area. if i made the aux tunnel 100% of the window size then the window wont be as big as i would like. i was thinking make the windows larger but that might put my tunell only 70% of the window. would this be a good idea or try to keep the tunnel as close to the same size as the window ? i thought i read some where with the difference in flow coefficients between window and tunnel it would be ok with a slightly smaller tunnel but maybe i read bad info.

wobbly
3rd November 2013, 08:50
The Aux tunnel can be alot smaller than the port area at the bore.
This is due to the fact that when you have a big "teardrop" or triangular aux port, most of the effective blowdown occurs when the
flat top edge of this port opens.
So you get alot of flow in the upper 1/2 of the port height due to the big pressure delta at this stage of the piston position.
Then as the lower part is uncovered the flow reduces, and the triangle shape also reduces the interaction with the transfer port opening just below it.

Flettner
3rd November 2013, 19:12
isn't it interesting, the YZ250 EFI entered the Acerbis 4 hour enduro this week end. It finished well, with no mechanical failures, in fact it ran like a clock at approx 15% less fuel burn.
It's obviously different to look at ( the engine ), not one person acknowledged it for what it is. One guy came over and telling us how great these "old" YZ250's were, he had owned one, he must have stood there ten minutes and didn't even notice it had no carb, I couldn't believe it!
Is this what fourstrokes have done for us, everything is sanitised and the same .

speedpro
3rd November 2013, 20:03
From working in the bike shop for not a terribly long time I verified that most people are full of shit and don't notice the most obvious stuff. If it's in the brochure - all good. You could probably sell them last years model with new plastic and they'd be telling their mates in the bar how much better this bike is because it has all this new stuff, it's in the brochure. Or guys that "thrash" R1s to Coro'. Thrash?????

It's getting worse as well. As things get more complicated and reliable there's no need to lift the bonnet so to speak, and not much you can do if you did.

Grumph
4th November 2013, 05:29
From working in the bike shop for not a terribly long time I verified that most people are full of shit and don't notice the most obvious stuff. If it's in the brochure - all good. You could probably sell them last years model with new plastic and they'd be telling their mates in the bar how much better this bike is because it has all this new stuff, it's in the brochure. Or guys that "thrash" R1s to Coro'. Thrash?????

It's getting worse as well. As things get more complicated and reliable there's no need to lift the bonnet so to speak, and not much you can do if you did.

Agreed - the number of people who come up and say "I used to have one of those" when it's been so changed the factory wouldn't recognise it....

wobbly
4th November 2013, 06:24
You gotta realise that the vast majority of punters out there wouldnt know a throttle body from the one Elle has in bra advert signs.

Flettner
4th November 2013, 07:38
I think I might!

richban
4th November 2013, 08:16
I think I might!

You made it go to good. If it was running shit and you had to spanner it all day then people would be all over it with comments like "yeah nah you will never get it to work with injection mate stick a carb on it". Be happy that it is just working away and no one has a clue. Well done.

breezy
4th November 2013, 08:59
found this while looking for methods of cooling , i found it a quite interesting read.289373

Drew
4th November 2013, 09:07
found this while looking for methods of cooling , i found it a quite interesting read.289373I admit to not reading the whole thing, but it doesn't seem to be groundbreaking in any way.

It also doesn't have much of a race application, other than drag racing to my mind.

It's also still water cooling. So limited to =<100cc smokers in the bucket racing circles of NZ, in which case a proper water jacket is the best method.

wobbly
4th November 2013, 10:02
Yea well Niel you arent the average punter - with a CNC machining centre your shed.
But the others dont realise the only commonality between Elle and a throttle body is that there is a hole in the front, and one in the back, one for IN the other for OUT.

F5 Dave
4th November 2013, 13:43
Well, technically there's two in the front (ignoring impossibilities) & even on your birthday I don't think Elle would oblige.

wobbly
4th November 2013, 15:47
So they are the same - the throttle body has a fuel rail inlet, but even in my sad case that would be an impossibility.

F5 Dave
4th November 2013, 16:44
When she first launched her adds back in, erm late 80s? there was a 20' long reclined Elle plastered on the James Smith building. Quite a sight, but there were apparently some complaints, not least about the homeless drunks standing opposite in Cuba mall furiously shaking their trenchcoats.

Flettner
4th November 2013, 17:27
I suppose I'm just saying, back in my day ( I'd like to think it's still my day ) if there was even the slightest roomer of something a bit different in the pits, we would be all over it, you know, like the proverbial rash. But hey times have changed it would seem, Elle.

F5 Dave
4th November 2013, 17:44
Buy the latest Metal Mulusha sticker kit old man

husaberg
5th November 2013, 13:35
I remember the Poloni power head From Robinsons book did anyone ever use it in competition




Not at Aprilia. I seem to remember that Team Roberts once tried variable comp heads on the factory Yamaha 500s, but the name Poloni does not ring a bell.


I spelt it wrong too i guess "Polini" powerhead


Seen this today....
Also nice illustration of the Rotax Pneumatic powervalve.

Don't read this Wob its for Rob.......
http://edj.net/2stroke/jennings/webco_power%20Hodoka.pdf
http://edj.net/2stroke/jennings/

chrisc
6th November 2013, 22:13
I have infiltrated the ESE headquarters and successfully spied on their operations.

http://christophercain.cc/b/d/bikes/IMG_0615.jpg

"Now there's your problem"
http://christophercain.cc/b/d/bikes/IMG_0619.jpg

Preparing #21 for the 2 hour
http://christophercain.cc/b/d/bikes/IMG_0613.jpg

I also had my slug FXR on the dyno for a while and tried to bring her to her former glory.
See here for result (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/153656-Chris-Bucket-photo-thread-Bandwidth-warning?p=1130634434#post1130634434)

TZ350
7th November 2013, 16:04
289476

Good news, I am expecting to see my new Injectors here tomorrow or Monday so it will be back onto the dyno next week.

289477

After the chop job on the frame I have 22.5 deg rake and hopefully 19mm of trail.

289475

Working on getting engine positioned in the frame and the Squat-Anti Squat sorted.

289478

husaberg
7th November 2013, 16:10
91mm trail.........i hope;)

TZ350
7th November 2013, 17:15
91mm trail.........i hope;)

Eeek erge ooops yes ..... :laugh:

TZ350
7th November 2013, 17:23
The 25 Demerits was because Emma found the bike in the workshop during business hours, get a 100 and you have to shout morning tea all round.

289480 289481 289482

Working on getting the engine positioned, the MC18 is a little longer than a RS125 and I have been able to get the engines crank much the same distance from the front axle as a RS so hopefully that will translate into ideal weight distribution onto the MC's front wheel. The stainless tube represents the chain run.

F5 Dave
7th November 2013, 20:41
Maybe a thinner header section for more clearance? Or stronger string.

TZ350
7th November 2013, 20:56
Maybe a thinner header section for more clearance? Or stronger string.

Should be good I recon, as its that special yellow and green vibration absorbing string, but thanks for the heads up, plan B, hammer some clearance into the header.

husaberg
7th November 2013, 21:22
Try putting the venturi directly behind the slide like Lectron did - this will shorten up the divergent length with much slower angles out to the RV port area.
Easy to test the flow capability of the varying venturi positions and divergent angles on a flow bench before hitting a dyno.



Yes, make it into a bellmouth. That will get you both a shorter unit and a better inflow. You might also consider putting the restriction in the bellmouth if your rules allow it. That would mean you can have a considerably longer trailing ramp (the widening can start right after the bellmouth, i.e. under the throttle slide). It also means that only the air, not the fuel, has to pass through the restriction. That way the total mass that has to be accelerated through the restriction, will be about 8 % less.


256967

This is what my ventori tube looks like, flow is from left to right, two ramps, leading ramp is 34 deg included and trailing ramp is 14 deg included angle.

Could the flow be improved by making the leading edge ramp into an aero foil shape like the leading edge of an aeroplane wing as in your picture.
It would certainly shorten up the tube and get the venturi point closer in behind the slide.

seen this yesterday, i edited the Valves out and added some ports.:yawn:
Cameron

TZ350
8th November 2013, 05:56
289509
saw this yesterday, i edited the Valves out and added some ports.:yawn: Cameron

Thanks for that Husa, the wife pulled my ear when she caught me reading your post....:laugh:

Now that I know its the 1978 AMA Tech Bulletin 78-1 I should have been looking for I found this....

289513 289514 289512

The rest of it can be found here:- http://books.google.co.nz/books?id=dfV3AQ4rHIoC&pg=PA43&lpg=PA43&dq=ama+technical+bulletin+78-1&source=bl&ots=LAHW05c8Fo&sig=ml7Fy6TDC7EEo4n7xCPcEdcRx1o&hl=en&sa=X&ei=NRZ8UqLwKoqtiAf6mYDIBA&ved=0CCoQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=ama technical bulletin 78-1&f=false

I had heard about the restriction imposed on the TZ750's and that Yamaha were able to use it to their advantage. I was never able to find out much about it, but the story gave me a direction to look in for developing my own inlet system.

289503 289504

The 24mm taper bored OKO .... with the old Suzuki GP nudging 34 crank hp the idea has pretty much made the Bucket 24mm carb restriction rule for 125 2T's redundant.

RomeuPT
8th November 2013, 13:28
Hi again.

Found this graph comparing an exhaust made from dif materials.

Would this difference came from just heat dissipation? Making the stainless a titanium pipe reach a higher temp?

http://www.deraceheldenvanweleer.nl/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=833.0;attach=28988 ;image

thanks

TZ350
8th November 2013, 18:25
First ever (for me) EFI dyno run.

289522

My new, smaller injectors arrived today and I got the Beast running well enough to try a first pull on the dyno.

Lots of tuning to do but its looking promising.

koba
8th November 2013, 18:25
Hi again.

Found this graph comparing an exhaust made from dif materials.

Would this difference came from just heat dissipation? Making the stainless a titanium pipe reach a higher temp?

http://www.deraceheldenvanweleer.nl/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=833.0;attach=28988 ;image

thanks

Perhaps difference in resonance too?

I'm no expert but would suggest that if the design was optimised for each material one would attain the same, or a similar, power curve.

koba
8th November 2013, 18:26
First ever (for me) EFI dyno run.

289522

My new, smaller injectors arrived today and I got the Beast running well enough to try a first pull on the dyno.

Lots of tuning to do but its looking promising.

Haha, awesome, out of the box it smashes what I have!

husaberg
8th November 2013, 18:42
Thanks for that Husa, the wife pulled my ear when she caught me reading your post....:laugh:
lol that was my aim......

Now that I know its the 1978 AMA Tech Bulletin 78-1 I should have been looking for I found this....

289513
The 24mm taper bored OKO .... with the old Suzuki GP nudging 34 crank hp the idea has pretty much made the Bucket 24mm carb restriction rule for 125 2T's redundant.

All but, you still have that air cooled limitation;)
The Cameron Sportbike Performance handbook is well worth a read.
I also got the tdc book for my birthday.
BTW did you soda blast the frame?

chrisc
8th November 2013, 18:50
First ever (for me) EFI dyno run.

289522

My new, smaller injectors arrived today and I got the Beast running well enough to try a first pull on the dyno.

Lots of tuning to do but its looking promising.

Congrats Rob! :banana::apumpin:

Grumph
8th November 2013, 19:03
[QUOTE=TZ350;The 24mm taper bored OKO .... with the old Suzuki GP nudging 34 crank hp the idea has pretty much made the Bucket 24mm carb restriction rule for 125 2T's redundant.[/QUOTE]

Not completely - you've still got to think about it and have the skill to make it...it's a bit harder too IMO with a reed motor as the article makes clear. My approach at present which is working quite well i'll admit is the 'lectron" answer.
If i continue with the reed motor I may well look at making up a flatslide version of an Amal GP or RN - with a remote needle. This should leave only a nozzle protruding into the bore - and of course to keep Wob happy, a powerjet too.

Have you looked at any advantage to continuing the taper inward past the rotary valve to the point where it meets the transfer wall ?

TZ350
8th November 2013, 20:11
Yes, on my engines I tried to carry the divergent cone from the venture restrictor right through the carb, rubber manifold, rotary valve and on into the motor itself.

With the EFI Ball Valve throttle and 24mm venture restrictor behind it, the inlet passage is to short for a nice divergent angle so its a bit abrupt I am afraid.

I like what your thinking of doing with a flat slide and remote needle.

I tried a 30mm EI (Lectron??) with a 24mm venture restrictor just in behind the slide with it extending right back into the rubber manifold.

289526

Later I set it up with a power jet arrangement and got good results but the carb was big and made the inlet tract to long and I was hampered by a lack of needles to jet it properly. In the end I found the smaller OKO gave better results on the dyno and was much easier to work with.

I tried all sorts of carburetors like the 38 which passed an astronomical amount of air on the flow bench but made no more power on the dyno than the OKO did. I guess the power restriction was not in the carb.

And at lower rpm, if you whacked the throttle open on the 38 you would get a big flat spot, this didn't happen with carbs that were 32mm or less.

TZ350
8th November 2013, 20:56
The 24mm taper bored OKO .... with the old Suzuki GP nudging 34 crank hp the idea has pretty much made the Bucket 24mm carb restriction rule for 125 2T's redundant.
All but, you still have that air cooled limitation ;)

True but that is another issue and probably the real limiting factor. Ironically, if they did away with the 24mm carb rule I probably would not bother trying to run a bigger one now because a taper bored 24 works so well.

Now what to do about that air cooling ..... :scratch:.... I have a few ideas :whistle:.... :D

husaberg
8th November 2013, 20:59
True but that is another issue and probably the real limiting factor.

they were a clever set of rules:msn-wink:

TZ350
8th November 2013, 21:09
they were a clever set of rules :msn-wink:

True and its what keeps me entertained by trying to get the best out of them.

To improve the air cooling I will need to data log some critical areas like the temperature under the plug, the fin area near the exhaust port duct and the gearbox oil temperature.

Frits Overmars
8th November 2013, 22:16
Now what to do about that air cooling ..... :scratch:.... I have a few ideas :whistle:.... :DA little story:
there is a german racing series called SimsonGP, based on the one truly indestructible product from the former German Democratic Republic: the Simson moped, of which there are still thousands around. A friend of mine named Jan Schäffer runs a tuning company called Langtuning (www.langtuning.de/Shop2/index.php (http://www.langtuning.de/Shop2/index.php)) specializing in Simsons. Jan has dominated the fastest class of the series, which has been kind of demoralizing for his competitors, so at the end of 2012 I talked him into trying his luck in the most restricted class: street tires, aircooled cylinder with cast-iron sleeve, no nikasil allowed, piston port induction, no more than two transfers, and so on.
Kind of a hopeless enterprise really, since Jan puts a 115 kilos on the scales with his helmet and boots on, so he needs every pony he can get out of the 50 cc engine. And if you're not allowed to tune it properly, what can you expect.
To cut a long story short: in spite of another team hiring a 55 kg Moto3-rider, Jan became champion. How? Take a look at his bike; there are cooling fins everywhere. Even the large fins on the clutch and ignition covers become too hot to touch. Something in line with your ideas, TZ350?

husaberg
8th November 2013, 22:58
A little story:
How? Take a look at his bike; there are cooling fins everywhere. Even the large fins on the clutch and ignition covers become too hot to touch. Something in line with your ideas, TZ350?

I came across something posted about how a 50 lapped many seconds quicker with a dry clutch than its original wet clutch,later i wondered if it was more to do with the cooling effect of the clutch not directly heating the oil and thus the crankcases rather than just the reduced drag.


Something else to consider is how much a sealed airbox by taking air from in front (which at bucket speeds will be 9.9/10 of zero pressure) will lead to a power boost regardless, by the virtue of the air not being preheated by the engine or rad.(cameron)

I saved these because they were pretty.but notice the cases.....

C_Wolf
9th November 2013, 02:41
http://f3d.de/IMG_0811.JPG

http://f3d.de/IMG_0812.JPG

Grumph
9th November 2013, 05:31
I see nothing implicit or implied in the NZ bucket rules which would prevent running a gearbox oil cooler...I don't know how effective it would be on kart tracks but i'd bet on a measurable improvement on the big tracks.

TZ350
9th November 2013, 06:27
289536Take a look at his bike; there are cooling fins everywhere. Even the large fins on the clutch and ignition covers become too hot to touch. Something in line with your ideas, TZ350?


289534I came across something posted about how a 50 lapped many seconds quicker with a dry clutch than its original wet clutch,later i wondered if it was more to do with the cooling effect of the clutch not directly heating the oil and thus the crankcases rather than just the reduced drag. I saved these because they were pretty.but notice the cases.....


289535


I see nothing implicit or implied in the NZ bucket rules which would prevent running a gearbox oil cooler...

Improved air cooling, I have been very encouraged by these suggestions.

As well as an air cooled clutch, I have been thinking of a dry sump for the gear box too.

289537

Unfortunately the only suitable tank I have for a dry sump has a lot of fins on it ... :scratch:

Drew
9th November 2013, 07:23
Hmmm, still got space for the original two stroke oil pump on the top of the motor? You'd only need to put in a scavenger pump to fill the tank back up.

But with such a low volume of oil in the gear box, would cooling the oil have enough effect to warrant the extra weight and draw?

Gotta be worth a shot I suppose.

TZ, when you've got bikes on the Dyno, how much air is the cooling fan shifting past the bike and is it sourced from outside the workshop? Must be difficult to simulate real riding conditions. I've never spent time on a dyno, but the ones I've seen in action don't look particularly realistic in air flow respect.

husaberg
9th November 2013, 07:45
Hmmm, still got space for the original two stroke oil pump on the top of the motor? You'd only need to put in a scavenger pump to fill the tank back up.

But with such a low volume of oil in the gear box, would cooling the oil have enough effect to warrant the extra weight and draw?

Gotta be worth a shot I suppose.



the idea is to use lots of oil to "cool the crankcases" rather than have the gearbox and clutch heat the crankcase
i guess the drag would be covered by lower drag of not churning the gears through oil anymore.
it fails on kiss.

Wob mentioned how cast case make more power than shinny CNC ones due to their interior surfaces I wonder if some of it is their greater external surface area as well as the greater internal surface area plays a part.

ps remember the insulation paint rob

wobbly
9th November 2013, 07:45
Stainless and Ti pipes are utter mongrels to make, the stainless is impossible to hand work to shape and the Ti needs purging
inside, and or building inside a gas filled box, so the welds dont become shitty and crack all the time.
They both have a different heat reaction ( the same as each other for all intents ) than a mild steel pipe, and I have always used 8% longer
as a guide to getting the same rev performance.
Re a dry clutch Vs wet , part of the advantage is less viscous drag of the plates dipped in the gearbox oil, but part is also the decreased inertia
of the dry clutch assembly out of the oil.
With the BSL500 we tested an AP dry clutch that had Magnesium hubs and carbon/carbon plates Vs the stock VFR Yamaha dry race clutch.
Apart from the issue of being impossible to get consistent good start launches, the carbon clutches low inertia gave near on a bike length advantage per gear change
off the data logger at Sepang testing.
You could see it happen instantly the two bikes throttles were opened off the LH hairpin onto pit straight, when side by side going in.
The light clutch bike would simply pull ahead instantly.
Shame we couldnt use it, as it cost Bill 12,000 GBP at my insistence it would be the best thing since sliced bread.

TZ350
9th November 2013, 10:57
Must be difficult to simulate real riding conditions. I've never spent time on a dyno, but the ones I've seen in action don't look particularly realistic in air flow respect.

Agreed, the airflow from the fans is not very realistic, best I can say about them is that hopefully they are consistently wrong and don't upset the repeatability of the dyno measurements.

TZ350
9th November 2013, 11:21
289542

One of the most useful things I have added to the fuel injection system is a switch that turns the fuel pump off.

289541

Being able to turn only the pump off, has been very useful for clearing a flooded engine when trying to re start.

289545289543 289544

A look down the rabbit hole

RAW
9th November 2013, 11:46
Wobbly, are you saying 8% longer for a mild steel pipe if is were to be a copy of a titanium pipe ?

wobbly
9th November 2013, 18:31
NO - look at the graph of Ti and Stainless = virtually the same, the steel pipe peak is around 1000 revs in 13,000 lower.
So the steel pipe would need to be shorter by 8%.

husaberg
9th November 2013, 18:39
The other week i couldn't find the other Aprilia airbox photos and Air intake. Attached below the pics below are a pretty Metrakit



Something else to consider is how much a sealed airbox by taking air from in front (which at bucket speeds will be 9.9/10 of zero pressure) will lead to a power boost regardless, by the virtue of the air not being preheated by the engine or rad.(cameron)

http://images3.photomania.com/455839/1/~rad487E2.jpghttp://images3.photomania.com/455799/1/~radE84F2.jpg
food for though Minerilli 50.fin sizes..http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/17/94/08/58/tropha10.jpg

cooling cooling cooling...........
http://www.hermanmeijer.nl/hemeyla/_wp_generated/wp36936d65_01_06.jpg
http://www.hermanmeijer.nl/hemeyla/_wp_generated/wp0c9767f5_01_06.jpg
http://www.hermanmeijer.nl/hemeyla/_wp_generated/wp49521c9d_01_06.jpg
http://www.hermanmeijer.nl/hemeyla/_wp_generated/wpa0d9936f_01_06.jpg
http://www.hermanmeijer.nl/hemeyla/_wp_generated/wp19db079c_01_06.jpg

RAW
9th November 2013, 23:57
Thanks Wob, I will try it out on a 102 Aprilia and see what happens

wobbly
11th November 2013, 09:29
Amazes me that such clever people build such cool pieces of gear, then post hi res pics on the net with some of the worst birdshit frame welding on the planet.
That second pic of the Hemela just ruins the whole thing.

RomeuPT
11th November 2013, 10:29
Stainless and Ti pipes are utter mongrels to make, the stainless is impossible to hand work to shape and the Ti needs purging
inside, and or building inside a gas filled box, so the welds dont become shitty and crack all the time.
They both have a different heat reaction ( the same as each other for all intents ) than a mild steel pipe, and I have always used 8% longer
as a guide to getting the same rev performance.
Re a dry clutch Vs wet , part of the advantage is less viscous drag of the plates dipped in the gearbox oil, but part is also the decreased inertia
of the dry clutch assembly out of the oil.
With the BSL500 we tested an AP dry clutch that had Magnesium hubs and carbon/carbon plates Vs the stock VFR Yamaha dry race clutch.
Apart from the issue of being impossible to get consistent good start launches, the carbon clutches low inertia gave near on a bike length advantage per gear change
off the data logger at Sepang testing.
You could see it happen instantly the two bikes throttles were opened off the LH hairpin onto pit straight, when side by side going in.
The light clutch bike would simply pull ahead instantly.
Shame we couldnt use it, as it cost Bill 12,000 GBP at my insistence it would be the best thing since sliced bread.

Thanks wob!

Drew
11th November 2013, 12:42
Amazes me that such clever people build such cool pieces of gear, then post hi res pics on the net with some of the worst birdshit frame welding on the planet.
That second pic of the Hemela just ruins the whole thing.

You should see some of the shit on our sidecar, from two owners ago we think...Since the last guy's tig skill leave a beautiful weld.

We rock a mig, but anything that looks like that second shot you don't like, gets ground back and redone.

Grumph
11th November 2013, 14:57
Amazes me that such clever people build such cool pieces of gear, then post hi res pics on the net with some of the worst birdshit frame welding on the planet.
That second pic of the Hemela just ruins the whole thing.

That's bronze welding and i can only guess at wrong gas pressures/poor or no flux/maybe even using galv tubing.....

Pity as he's demonstrably capable of good engineering.

koba
11th November 2013, 15:36
I'm in the birdshit brigade but at least it's not ruining anything cool!

:laugh:

husaberg
11th November 2013, 15:40
Amazes me that such clever people build such cool pieces of gear, then post hi res pics on the net with some of the worst birdshit frame welding on the planet.
That second pic of the Hemela just ruins the whole thing.


That's bronze welding and i can only guess at wrong gas pressures/poor or no flux/maybe even using galv tubing.....

Pity as he's demonstrably capable of good engineering.

You do him an injustice Greg, hes far more capable than.,. only good engineering.
The flaking paint (cause it was done over 30 years ago) would make it look worse than it probably is.
http://www.hermanmeijer.nl/hemeyla/versnelingbak.html

speedpro
11th November 2013, 17:41
flap discs and flap wheels are my friends, that and a good coat of paint.

Yow Ling
11th November 2013, 17:48
Thanks Husa, awesome link !

Grumph
11th November 2013, 18:27
[QUOTE=husaberg;You do him an injustice Greg, hes far more capable than.,. only good engineering.
The flaking paint (cause it was done over 30 years ago) would make it look worse than it probably is.[/QUOTE]

I was bronze welding better than that in the mid 60's.

You can be a brilliant engineer/designer/developer but still be crap at welding...I'm well aware there are areas i fall short on, we've all got them...

husaberg
11th November 2013, 20:06
Often thought about getting a MVX engine and bolting on 3 CR 85 cylinders, with an ignition and pipes would make a awesome roadie in a decent frame. The cycle parts were complete shit, as a L plater the choice was clear, shitter MVX, the KR 250 with those weird spinning discs, a cheap and cheerful RZ or the race replica RG. We all wanted the RG but could only afford the RZ, the KR was probably the best bike.

Gilera made a tandem twin 125 mxer, I know of only 1 disc valve honda that was a 125 mxer raced in the All Japan mx championship only (it's not at the Collection Hall), Honda did make a RC125M twin mxer (with RIBI front end) but that was a reed valve. That bike is featured in VMX mag No26.


http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s297/Lozza85_2007/30_1024.jpg (http://s155.photobucket.com/user/Lozza85_2007/media/30_1024.jpg.html)

http://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2013/03/22/honda_rc125m_669581.jpg



never seen this one the intake looked suspiciously round.
the RS500/MVX/nsr400 article i posted mentioned the disk 125 twin with disk valve maybe this was a version of it,or maybe not......bugger

10bikekid
11th November 2013, 20:59
Keeping with the theme (in a milder manner)

I had an earlier model of one of these rotary valvers (it had way more power than the comparable piston port motors of the day)
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube-nocookie.com/embed/lpEWJhQ8QIE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Flettner
12th November 2013, 07:40
Appart from the power, were they not horrible bikes!

F5 Dave
12th November 2013, 08:21
I'm in the birdshit brigade but at least it's not ruining anything cool!

:laugh:
I aspire to birdshit, - but that's a $300 gasless mig for ya. It was supposed to be a stepping stone but I'll have to put off a decent welder probably till the kids leave home.

Ocean1
12th November 2013, 08:29
I aspire to birdshit, - but that's a $300 gasless mig for ya.

A $300 gasless mig belongs on the farm, where the results can be decently shrouded in cow shit.


It was supposed to be a stepping stone but I'll have to put off a decent welder probably till the kids leave home.

If you manage that let me know the trick, I’ve changed all the locks and put the guard dog on a diet and a long lead but they’re still getting in.

F5 Dave
12th November 2013, 11:19
Well one isn't even toilet trained yet so I'm a ways off finding out.

TZ350
12th November 2013, 15:25
OK fastest MonoWheel yet .....

289679 289678

Quick blat around the workshop

289680

10bikekid
12th November 2013, 17:41
Nice, but can it do a wheelie :(

husaberg
12th November 2013, 20:04
CVT
http://ninja250r.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/img_1591.jpg?w=460
http://global.yamaha-motor.com/news/2009/1019/ycat.html
http://search.yamaha-motor.co.jp/en/search.x?q=ycat&ie=utf8&pagemax=10&imgsize=1&pdf=ok&zoom=1&ref=global.yamaha-motor.com&pid=w7MFVMorhdfaHX9IxLp7cQ..&qid=I03ySu7L_N6uCsO-q0cfsN-B52mgXtus&page=2#1

Moooools
12th November 2013, 20:21
Well one isn't even toilet trained yet so I'm a ways off finding out.

Don't you start toilet training at 15 years old in the Hutt?

chrisc
12th November 2013, 23:14
http://youtu.be/EmnsXTMLzCE

TZ350
13th November 2013, 06:00
Kel gave me a hand with the bike last night. Kel ran the bike, I played with the laptop adjusting the EFI tables.

Interestingly it would start a run nicely on the dyno then after a few blips of the throttle under load it would start hunting badly and would not go much over 8,000 rpm.

The motor ran better really rich but as the fueling was decreased to something more normal it would run worse. But switching the fuel pump off momentarily cleaned things up.

I am starting to suspect the timing and or duration of the injection pulse could be a problem. It is injecting into the transfer duct and the transfers are open for about 130 degrees and the maximum injector on time I have seen is about 10 ms.

I will have to sit down an figure out what 10ms at 8,000rpm means in degrees and also find out if these injectors are good for 200 Hz (12,000 rpm).

chrisc
13th November 2013, 10:45
I'm killing time at a training session in Sydney and found this:

http://rmdmotors.com/bikes-for-sale/

I might end up trolling through the rest of this ESE thread too :rolleyes:

F5 Dave
13th November 2013, 13:38
Yeah I struggled to get past the YZR500, but ohh lookie at all those NF4s sitting around not being raced. Seems a shame.

chrisc
13th November 2013, 14:47
Better turn them into buckets :bleh::nono::Pokey:

Ocean1
13th November 2013, 15:58
:killingme

289727

husaberg
13th November 2013, 17:03
its all wrong what were they thinking........ it needs wire spoked wheels:msn-wink:

Yow Ling
13th November 2013, 18:00
Kel gave me a hand with the bike last night. Kel ran the bike, I played with the laptop adjusting the EFI tables.

Interestingly it would start a run nicely on the dyno then after a few blips of the throttle under load it would start hunting badly and would not go much over 8,000 rpm.

The motor ran better really rich but as the fueling was decreased to something more normal it would run worse. But switching the fuel pump off momentarily cleaned things up.

I am starting to suspect the timing and or duration of the injection pulse could be a problem. It is injecting into the transfer duct and the transfers are open for about 130 degrees and the maximum injector on time I have seen is about 10 ms.

I will have to sit down an figure out what 10ms at 8,000rpm means in degrees and also find out if these injectors are good for 200 Hz (12,000 rpm).

Theres a few things to think about, What is the dwell time on the injector? I mean how long from the time you energise the coil till the pintle lifts off the seat, on a big 350 you have way more time to inject the fuel. I wouldnt be suprised if 5- 7ms was wasted before any fuel flowed.

Is the injector just squirting fuel onto the outside of the sleeve and running down into the CCase, in a diesel the fuel can wait on the back of the valve in a cloud before being sucked in.

Is the injector spray pattern correctfor squirting into a very short but tall cavity, in a diesel its the opposite a long tunnel with a low roof.

I wonder if you put the injector facing into the throttle body some of these issues would solve themselves. of course some of the old problems you had may return

Just thinking !

husaberg
13th November 2013, 18:03
Theres a few things to think about, What is the dwell time on the injector? I mean how long from the time you energise the coil till the pintle lifts off the seat, on a big 350 you have way more time to inject the fuel. I wouldnt be suprised if 5- 7ms was wasted before any fuel flowed.

Is the injector just squirting fuel onto the outside of the sleeve and running down into the CCase, in a diesel the fuel can wait on the back of the valve in a cloud before being sucked in.

Is the injector spray pattern correctfor squirting into a very short but tall cavity, in a diesel its the opposite a long tunnel with a low roof.

I wonder if you put the injector facing into the throttle body some of these issues would solve themselves. of course some of the old problems you had may return

Just thinking !
My muse.....
Cagiva ran huge pressure... what pressure does Neil run?

Yow Ling
13th November 2013, 18:14
My muse
Cagiva ran huge pressure... what pressure does Neil run?

most efis run around 40 psi (in cars) I would assume that is what he would run