I paid $800 for my running reg and wof 'project' and look where I am nowops:
I'm only buying previouslyrestoredbysomeonewithdeeppockets now...plus the GB should be here over the weekend (otherwise I'm going to get it next week!)
Had some fun today
The throttle is very heavy on the mighty DR and has a several second return time
When road riding I have to use the throttle rocker as otherwise I have to hold on so tightly it hurts.
Off road you don't notice it so much as you're not at constant throttle as long.
Took the throttle cables off the spare DR and cleaned them up.
Removed the sucky ones and both were sticky but the return cable was very bound up with gunk.
Put the new(ish) ones on and it wasn't much better
Until I fine tuned the adjuster up by the master cylinder
Also put on the blinkers from the spare bike...
They're a little smaller...
Normal...
Betterer...
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i got a set of those tiny LED's on the back, there great, brighter than the originals too. was looking at a set for the front but they around $60 retail
'Good things come to those who wait'
Bollocks, get of your arse and go get it
No wonder you were worried about the copper the other day. You don't have a white light illuminating the number plate let along the angle of the number plate.
"The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools." - Herbert Spencer, English Philosopher (1820-1903)
I made a number plate light for the KLR after relocating the plate - white LEDs from Dick Smith Electronics, they have an integral current limiting resistor so connect directly to 12v, a few dollars for a pack of 6. Mounted in holes drilled in a strip cut from a plastic chopping board.
This is mounted under the luggage rack. Nice and bright, no WOF problems so far. Would weigh all of 2 ounces, if that.
it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
(PostalDave on ADVrider)
Used those led's for my dash lights. The high beam and aux light ones kept stuffing up my night vision. I've had to cover half the led up they're so bright.
Shinko E705 time.
90/90/21 (TL) front ($104).
120/90/17 (TT) rear ($114).
I didn't read the fine print as I would have rather gone for a 130 rear but guess I can't compare unless I've tried the 120 first
I put 28 psi in the front and 30 in the rear and headed up the Maitai.
Initial impression on the seal is of a fairly neutral ride.
Initial impression on hardpack gravel is of a fairly neutral ride.
Initial impression on loose grit/gravel is of a fairly neutral ride.
The front inspires confidence even in the loose corner grit.
The rear seems to have more traction leaned over than the SR244.
Next test is to take them back up there with 20f/22r psi and see the difference over the corrugations and in the corners.
TRUTH, n. An ingenious compound of desirability and appearance. ~ The Devil's Dictionary
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Paved Roads are just another example of Wasted Taxpayer Dollars
The good thing about the 705's is the sidewall pressure is actually more than I'd normally run.
The 120 should be a little more sensitive to pressure than the 130 or 150 as well.
I'd hope to get 10-12,000 out of them.
I've also got to get some more wd-40. I used crc on the bead of these and didn't have the same "drying to stickyness" you get with wd-40.
I'll do an oil and filter change this weekend and may pop the cam cover off and re-seal.
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