VFR owners' thread, for VFRPS members and prospective members

[koba]

hey guys, im thinking of jetting my carbs on the nc30 ive got the rk carbs so probly a good idea to do it, ive read up the how to on 400grey and a few other websites just wondering now where i can get the 118 and 120 main jets from?

Why would it be a good idea?
If it ain't broke don't fix it!

[koba]

Pics of my VFR in the bottom right of this page:

http://www.wfactor.org/?p=gallery&g=...&max=70&page=2

[koba]

Heres some pics of my nc35...Attachment 236096Attachment 236097Attachment 236098Attachment 236099

Eeek, snow!

What is everyones favourite paint scheme? http://www.vsource.org/VFR-RVF_files/Bvfr400r-mi.htm

My top 3 would be types:
8
7
5

hmm, I like type 9 on the NC21/24 page!

Cool link, chur.

[racefactory]

my nc30 feels like its not getting enough fuel when below 9000rpm in 5th and 6th gear? (4th only sometimes). Not a problem from 2-redline in 1st second and 3rd gears, so can't actually be a fueling problem, but it feels like a bike does when its running out of gas... what could it be? problem with the de-restrictor thing or something?

Make sure it's got the Snorkel on it. If it doesn't it won't run right in the mid range especially at higher speeds, although I never noticed anything. I'm having snorkel issues at the moment, I think i've got my mid range as good as it will get without a stock snorkel.

Get the carbs off and find out what jets are in it and how many washers are on the needles. I just shimmed my needles this evening which helped but it's still not running right in the mid range.

[koba]

my nc30 feels like its not getting enough fuel when below 9000rpm in 5th and 6th gear? (4th only sometimes). Not a problem from 2-redline in 1st second and 3rd gears, so can't actually be a fueling problem, but it feels like a bike does when its running out of gas... what could it be? problem with the de-restrictor thing or something?

How good is your battery?

[Icemaestro]

Uhh...it seems good? starter motor is good...went for a good 30sec or so the other night before I realised the kill switch was on ;-). No multimeter so no way of testing. It's just like its surging and then lagging on and off, random intervals, feels completely like a carb problem but only in those gears. could it be the clutch gears at all?

[Devy]

Why would it be a good idea?
If it ain't broke don't fix it!

i always follow that rule too but bumping the jet size is more of a performance upgrade. just like replacing your mufler. espcially for the rk models that only came with 110 jets its runs far leaner than the later models that came with 115/118 and 118/120.

oh and since im gona be commuting the bike in winter 2. a richer setup should help and those cold mornings right?

and thanks for the link gatch, i was gona go through cycletread but this guys way closer..

what im wondering now is do i go for a 118/120 setup or a 120/122 setup? the bikes just gona have an arrow race can. dont think im going to be doing much else,, ( thats what we all say at first)

im also wondering what brand oil every1's using on their bikes during winter?
repco holds that Castrol 4T? is that good?
and i havn't read alot of good things about these hiflow oil filters(considering they are quite cheap) soo im wondering if you guys run with that filter fine?? or i can get my hands on an orignal filter? or something better than the hiflow brand?

last bike i had was a bandit. the only option was a hiflow filter and it seemed to run fine but im always a believe that its better to spend alittle more and get a better quality item.

thanks guys

[Devy]

ohh any my favourite scheme hands down is type 4. which is the colour im getting my bike painted in after the accident. my original scheme is type 2, i like it.. but just dont like it as much as type 4.

[sil3nt]

Anyone need a fairing bolt kit?

Will probably order one from here http://www.tastynuts.com/Products/VF...cluding_Screen
in the next few weeks. About $50 NZD shipped to nz. If you want one let me know as the shipping price does not change with the quantity ordered.

[gatch]

Uhh...it seems good? starter motor is good...went for a good 30sec or so the other night before I realised the kill switch was on ;-). No multimeter so no way of testing. It's just like its surging and then lagging on and off, random intervals, feels completely like a carb problem but only in those gears. could it be the clutch gears at all?

Clutch gears ?

Does it happen when you have the gas wide open for a while, or just while cruising ? Your carb bowls may be emptying faster than they can fill ? Pull your spark plugs and check for one that looks whiter than others. If one is white it indicates a lean cylinder. Which MAY indicate a blockage in your fuel line.

But I'm an idiot, don't listen to me.

i always follow that rule too but bumping the jet size is more of a performance upgrade. just like replacing your mufler. espcially for the rk models that only came with 110 jets its runs far leaner than the later models that came with 115/118 and 118/120.

oh and since im gona be commuting the bike in winter 2. a richer setup should help and those cold mornings right?

and thanks for the link gatch, i was gona go through cycletread but this guys way closer..

what im wondering now is do i go for a 118/120 setup or a 120/122 setup? the bikes just gona have an arrow race can. dont think im going to be doing much else,, ( thats what we all say at first)

im also wondering what brand oil every1's using on their bikes during winter?
repco holds that Castrol 4T? is that good?
and i havn't read alot of good things about these hiflow oil filters(considering they are quite cheap) soo im wondering if you guys run with that filter fine?? or i can get my hands on an orignal filter? or something better than the hiflow brand?

last bike i had was a bandit. the only option was a hiflow filter and it seemed to run fine but im always a believe that its better to spend alittle more and get a better quality item.

thanks guys

Sweet.

I think the 118/120 would be max for an open pipe only. If you get full exhaust and tuned inlet then the 120/122 will be the go. Shim your needles at the same time, think about drilling the diaphragm holes too. It's all covered in the 400greybike forum.

A richer set up makes sense, as you have a colder denser air charge. More air + more fuel = more bang.

Or something.

Anyone need a fairing bolt kit?

Will probably order one from here http://www.tastynuts.com/Products/VF...cluding_Screen
in the next few weeks. About $50 NZD shipped to nz. If you want one let me know as the shipping price does not change with the quantity ordered.

I made my own little stainless top hat washers and use stainless cap screws. Makes it look industrial as har har har.

[Devy]

yup, doing the needle and the hole 2.. having a bit of problem sorceing a washer that small.. tried mitre 10, repco, gona try BnT tomorrow.. hopefully they have it.. or their probly know where i can get it.

checking the valve clearance 2nite 2..

hopefully its allgood then i can get the bike goin again..

[racefactory]

After adjusting float heights... it really does make a difference. Worth checking them.

'Gassing it' will really show up signs of lean or rich float height settings and it will also affect cruise on a very partially open throttle. My bike was dumping excess fuel when cruising at steady throttle, coughing and clearing itself out when accelerating but I reset the float height to stock and it's beautiful now.

[racefactory]

yup, doing the needle and the hole 2.. having a bit of problem sorceing a washer that small.. tried mitre 10, repco, gona try BnT tomorrow.. hopefully they have it.. or their probly know where i can get it.

checking the valve clearance 2nite 2..

hopefully its allgood then i can get the bike goin again..

Heye mate... just go to any Mitre 10 and they have a selection of zinc and copper washers in the nails/screws section including the 1/8 inch size which I use and are 1mm thickness. They fit in the needle retainer no problem. If you've got an existing 0.5mm washer then you can just use these 1mm washers on top. 0.5mm washers may be a bit hard to find but you can have mine if you want.

Devy- are you really running 110 jets with a modified end can? That must be lean as hell. If you want easy starting in the morning then you can adjust the pilot screws more on the rich side.. you can have it start up without choke from cold if you really want. Your main jet is not going to really effect your starting as the needle hasn't even started coming out at that point... I think you'd only be using pilot jet.

[gatch]

yup, doing the needle and the hole 2.. having a bit of problem sorceing a washer that small.. tried mitre 10, repco, gona try BnT tomorrow.. hopefully they have it.. or their probly know where i can get it.

checking the valve clearance 2nite 2..

hopefully its allgood then i can get the bike goin again..

You could try checking with a model shop, any place that sells rc cars or something.

[racefactory]

I've got a brand new stock nc30 air filter if you want it but the plastic air filter mounting doesn't quite fit the airbox so you'll have to put it in your current one.