VFR owners' thread, for VFRPS members and prospective members

[HenryDorsetCase]

Around 7.5k US for the motor + shipping and tax! and that is still 77hp.
http://mngforce.typepad.com/nc450vdev/costs.html

Sooo - what do you wanna do with your old forks?

that set with the CKT internals is down to $700 starting bid.

The internals and work cost nearly a grand on mine so you are getting that at a discount plus a free set of forks (see that dreamer wanting $380 for a set of stockers on TM?!) Sure its heaps of money but that and the shock will make a huge difference to your bike.

[lukemillar]

that set with the CKT internals is down to $700 starting bid.

The internals and work cost nearly a grand on mine so you are getting that at a discount plus a free set of forks (see that dreamer wanting $380 for a set of stockers on TM?!) Sure its heaps of money but that and the shock will make a huge difference to your bike.

I bought the emulators and springs from ckt and did the work myself which worked out cheaper, but $700 is a pretty damn good price!

[gatch]

think they are getting 92 hp now (-: you need to do 1.18 before you worry about that

I was reading a while back they were chasing 100hp !

Around 7.5k US for the motor + shipping and tax! and that is still 77hp.
http://mngforce.typepad.com/nc450vdev/costs.html

Sooo - what do you wanna do with your old forks?

The 428 and 450 would mean it would then be a "f2 posty" ? I think 70hp would be enough to not come last. As for the forks I'm not sure. I wonder if I could completely re machine the guts of them so one leg is compression and the other is rebound.. But then maybe I'm just talking a load of shit hahah.

that set with the CKT internals is down to $700 starting bid.

The internals and work cost nearly a grand on mine so you are getting that at a discount plus a free set of forks (see that dreamer wanting $380 for a set of stockers on TM?!) Sure its heaps of money but that and the shock will make a huge difference to your bike.

Mine ! For $700. Thanks to Abby. The thing I was concerned about is this bike is currently my road bike. So to do all the machining necessary and get the forks back into the bike in one day or over a weekend would be a bit of a stretch. This makes things easy. 30 minutes in out thank you time for a beer.

I bought the emulators and springs from ckt and did the work myself which worked out cheaper, but $700 is a pretty damn good price!

I'd thought about doing the same, but didn't for the above reason.

Now there is a test day at manfield next friday, I am very excited to see how much better this gear will be.

[lukemillar]

The 428 and 450 would mean it would then be a "f2 posty" ? I think 70hp would be enough to not come last.

I did last season on a heady 58hp and didn't come last, so you'll be fine! If you're doing 25s, you won't come last by a long way!

The G-force supersport (i.e no re-bore) can easily be done yourself. Be way cheaper to look out for a 2nd hand motor on trade me and just work on it as a project. 70hp is really not that unattainable from a 400.

[gatch]

I did last season on a heady 58hp and didn't come last, so you'll be fine! If you're doing 25s, you won't come last by a long way!

The G-force supersport (i.e no re-bore) can easily be done yourself. Be way cheaper to look out for a 2nd hand motor on trade me and just work on it as a project. 70hp is really not that unattainable from a 400.

That's exactly what I'd like to do. I think I could get 70hp without tearing the block down. Exhaust, carbs, cams and a better ignition would nearly see it I think.

[HenryDorsetCase]

That's exactly what I'd like to do. I think I could get 70hp without tearing the block down. Exhaust, carbs, cams and a better ignition would nearly see it I think.

I think thats a fair call. Sure you could just set fire to a pile of 20's and do the VFR750 thing, or buy one of his G Force super duper you beauty motors for $20k US, but the point of severely diminishing returns is reached pretty quickly.

I am going to get some dyno time for mine for a carb/exhaust setup. I also may invest in an ignitech box: my bike has a stuttery misfire at around 13k rpm that is totally wack. Step 1 is get some baseline.

How would I know if i have a deresetricted ignition box? can you tell from looking at it?

the other things I have done likely fucked it up too: repacked the exhaust for more quieter-er and reinstalled the air intake snorkel. Fairly obviously that is more restriction at both ends but it did have the stutter before I did any of that.

fun with old shitters, huh? I could just sell it and buy a 675 track bike but wheres the fun in that? (and the question "what would you buy it with? would need to be asked)

[gatch]

I think thats a fair call. Sure you could just set fire to a pile of 20's and do the VFR750 thing, or buy one of his G Force super duper you beauty motors for $20k US, but the point of severely diminishing returns is reached pretty quickly.

I am going to get some dyno time for mine for a carb/exhaust setup. I also may invest in an ignitech box: my bike has a stuttery misfire at around 13k rpm that is totally wack. Step 1 is get some baseline.

How would I know if i have a deresetricted ignition box? can you tell from looking at it?

the other things I have done likely fucked it up too: repacked the exhaust for more quieter-er and reinstalled the air intake snorkel. Fairly obviously that is more restriction at both ends but it did have the stutter before I did any of that.

fun with old shitters, huh? I could just sell it and buy a 675 track bike but wheres the fun in that? (and the question "what would you buy it with? would need to be asked)

I don't know about the ignition. Does it misfire in all gears or just top ? Mine is definitely still restricted, more than a few times now, on the errr track of course, it will hit around 13k in top and cut out. Can't do the 750 route as this will mean it won't be an "f3 postie" anymore. Won't get it in f3 either..

Lol these aren't old shitters. Look up some of the classics racing, to see the crustiest of old men and their silly old bikes. Some of those things are making well over DOUBLE the hp they had when they were new. The norton I ride makes around 50ish hp on methanol. It was quoted as 28 I think when it was new.. I'd be a fat kid in a candy shop if I could make that kind of improvement on the honda....

[jono035]

Do you mean the speed limiter type restriction or something else? I don't think there is any limitation on these bikes other than the speed limiter, in which case:

For the CDI, anything aftermarket probably isn't restricted, while anything stock probably is. I only know the Ignitech boxes and the stock CDIs, but I think both UK and JP models had the restriction.

If you're worried about it, unplug the speedo cable that runs to the drive sprocket and cable tie it out of the way then see if it still does it. If it does, then you can either just buy a programmable CDI as the expensive fix, buy one of the plug in 'derestricters' as the cheap fix. If you've got no problem modifying the harness or speedo, then you can either remove the little metal flag inside the speedo (what I did) or cut and splice a cable in the wiring harness.

Is it having issues in every gear at 13k? Does it pull through it in the lower gears? If it isn't getting through this range then it could be that you're hitting the limiter and there's something making your rev counter read wrong. As I understand it, most of the VFRs read at least a few hundred rpm low. The Ignitech CDIs have a setting to allow you to adjust for misreading in the rev counter, I think mine was reading about 9500rpm when the Ignitech box was telling me it was at 10k.

[gatch]

So I found out today that my vfr is actually a vtwin. Well that's what this dude reckons anyway.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/List...x?id=459139134

[lukemillar]

I am going to get some dyno time for mine for a carb/exhaust setup. I also may invest in an ignitech box: my bike has a stuttery misfire at around 13k rpm that is totally wack. Step 1 is get some baseline.

How would I know if i have a deresetricted ignition box? can you tell from looking at it?

I have a little 2k resistor that plugs into the speedo and derestricts the bike. Don't need it since I bought a ignitech, so if anyone wants it, then holla and I'll chuck it in the post (gratis) Actually, I'm not sure where it plugs because I have never used it (fashioned my own before it arrived!)

With carb setup on the OE carbs - there isn't much to gain unless you go down the HRC route. You need to modify the emulsion tubes, different needles and bigger jets and remove the air box (replacing it with a fiberglass tray). Also shorter velocity stacks, but again you can cut down the originals and restrict the air gets for similar effect. They also run slightly different slides (same as NC24) but I think if you don't have them, it doesn't really matter. With full exhaust systems, I found they really just save weight on the NC rather than gain power. A little maybe, but nothing crazy.

[sil3nt]

So I found out today that my vfr is actually a vtwin. Well that's what this dude reckons anyway.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/List...x?id=459139134

"my cat knows"

[jono035]

I have a little 2k resistor that plugs into the speedo and derestricts the bike. Don't need it since I bought a ignitech, so if anyone wants it, then holla and I'll chuck it in the post (gratis) Actually, I'm not sure where it plugs because I have never used it (fashioned my own before it arrived!)

With carb setup on the OE carbs - there isn't much to gain unless you go down the HRC route. You need to modify the emulsion tubes, different needles and bigger jets and remove the air box (replacing it with a fiberglass tray). Also shorter velocity stacks, but again you can cut down the originals and restrict the air gets for similar effect. They also run slightly different slides (same as NC24) but I think if you don't have them, it doesn't really matter. With full exhaust systems, I found they really just save weight on the NC rather than gain power. A little maybe, but nothing crazy.

If the resistor is tucked into part of a wiring loom with connectors on each end, then it just acts as an extension between speedo and the loom. If not, then it needs to be spliced into the loom manually, either by pulling a pin out of the back shell or cutting one of the wires.

Pulling the odo off and clipping off the metal flag seemed like the easiest thing, to me, although the ignitech CDI made such a huge difference to the rideability of the bike, at least around town, that I'm surprised more people don't have them.

[jono035]

"my cat knows"

I actually lol'd at that comment. Loved the bit about 'I actually ride it rather than sitting on the net'... What's wrong with doing both??

[motorbyclist]

If you're worried about it, unplug the speedo cable that runs to the drive sprocket and cable tie it out of the way then see if it still does it. If it does, then you can either just buy a programmable CDI as the expensive fix, buy one of the plug in 'derestricters' as the cheap fix.

if the "limiter" is still in action without the speedo plugged in then it probably isn't the limiter..... just sayin' :P

I actually lol'd at that comment. Loved the bit about 'I actually ride it rather than sitting on the net'... What's wrong with doing both??

must be a bit of a novice to mistake a V4 for a Vtwin.....

[motorbyclist]

http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=456754159

aside the camel colours, DROOOOOOOOL

I don't like how the TYGA front fairing doesn't look like it fits the headlights... and I don't like the look of those headlights... :yuck:

And what happened to the air intakes?


If my nc35 hits the road this is the plan:
http://tyga-performance.com/rvfbefor...ightfront1.jpg
http://tyga-performance.com/site/chr...n-55d36178.jpg