ESE's works engine tuner

[TZ350]

Meanwhile in Italy: http://www.kartingconnect.com/fuel-i...prototype-now/

KK1 by Modena Engine with indirect electronic injection.

In this prototype, the traditional carburetor has been changed for a butterfly type by Bing equipped with a single injector (also a double injector is currently being studied) controlled “by wire”, instead of the usual metallic cable. The manufacturer has tested several solutions regarding inner diameter including 38 mm, reaching top power of 55 bhp.



Well that did not take long for Flettners pioneering EFI work here in NZ to appear in Europe.....

[Flettner]

Ha Ha next we will see them working on a sleeve valve engine.

[TZ350]

Classic pre 63 Ariel Arrow Racers



Arrow complete bottom end, wheels, engine parts and frame.

Someone who heard I had some Arrow parts and was interested in building a classic racing Ariel Arrow emailed me a story about his own efforts with an Arrow, and making it into a 500 4 was pretty cool too.


Hi TZ 350

I said I might say a little about my Ariel Arrow experiences way back in the dim past.

I actually had 3 of those machines, the first one had had a head on and was more or less a write off but I bought it out of curiosity after hearing of Hermann Meier's Arrow at the TT.

I then bought a Leader to convert to a racer, but ended up riding it around instead, quite frankly I knew nothing about tuning and so it remained a Leader.

In 1967 I bought an Arrow and this time, took the plunge, bigger carb, skimmed the heads, rebore and new pistons, chambers and all the things you did in those days to make them go faster! oh yes, and Castrol R, big mistake with two strokes, (gummed rings etc. etc.) but the Ariel never really got that far, the first blast down the road I holed the right hand piston! put it in the shed and then later bought a Suzuki T20 (as you did in those days) - bye bye Arrow!

In defense of the Arrow, it was a beautiful road bike and handled really well, probably because of it's very rigid pressed steel frame but you couldn't really throw it around much because of it's small wheels (might have been 16" - can't remember).
It was also exceedingly heavy for a 250. and to tell the truth it would take a prone rider and a stiff tailwind to make it crack 75 mph!

There was much to be done to make that thing a racer, with it's tiny pair of transfer ports (in each cylinder), the crowded big end rollers, bronze small end, heavy cast iron barrels, chain primary, 4 speed box with plain bearings, the layshaft had one sintered iron plain bearing - not even bronze! and this used to collapse.

Also pathetic drum brakes (for racing anyway). - but having said that, a good commuter bike and that is what it was designed for.
They said that it was a copy of the German Adler, possibly inspired by it and with some of it's features, but no copy.

It used to freak me out at night if, say, I did a slow U turn - the light didnt turn with the handlebars!

So I had a "souped up "Ariel Arrow" in the shed and a guy I worked with had another redundant Arrow "Racer".
He wanted to buy mine but we couldn't come to an agreement on price, so we eventually decided to co-operate and build a 500 special from the two bikes.

The pressed steel frame didn't lend itself well to fitting two motors, so I drew up a Norton Featherbed style frame in my spare time and built it at work (in work time and with work gear) much to the foreman's distress every time he caught me! (but they had all the benders, welding and brazing equipment etc. I needed).

I built it out of 17 gauge cold drawn tubing, 1" I think, (it was just a guess really!)
If I remember correctly we bought this tubing from HS White in Auckland. The front forks were triumph and maybe the wheels too.

We were originally going to join the two engines and make an inline 4 but finally decided to mount one above the other, so I welded up an adapter to join the two together in this fashion and do a '"square 4" as Suzuki had done, except that ours was to have a chain drive between the two.

To cut a long story short, we had a lot of trouble with the chain drive which needed an outrigger bearing on the end of each crank and then there was that constant need to reset the ignition timing (contact points) which kept going out of synch.
We took it out to the Kariotahi Beach Race and it looked promising till the timing went out yet again!

After the race we were having a bit of a lair up at the beach with a bonfire where I had a serious accident with a bottle of meths (and a bonfire) - two badly burned legs and that was it really, I spent 8 weeks recovering in Middlemore Hospital, then after I got out, I met my future wife and we got married.

She never did like bikes but tolerated them, however she lost all interest after I took her out to Puke - Cal Rayborn from USA who was on holiday here, came off a Suzuki 500 twin and was killed right in front of us, - that really finished my bikes for a while!

To get back to our 500, it did a couple of drag races, (didn't do too bad) and then got sold off to somene obscure who took one engine off and raced it at Puke, he said it handled not too bad.

The last I heard of it was when a guy knocked on my door one evening and said he would like to buy any Arrow spares I happened to have left and described the bike he had - it was my baby!

I rushed in and grabbed my drawings and showed them to him - but he wasn't at all interested and didn't believe me - said that it was built by a couple of guys he didn't know, and that was the dismal way it all ended (around 1971.)

[koba]

I said I might say a little about my Ariel Arrow experiences way back in the dim past...

I love reading about stuff like this!

Cheers for sharing.

[Kickaha]

Anyone for a Krauser?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-TZ5...-/251429490239

[TZ350]

Of course, if you have half a dozen Arrow engines lying about you could make yourself a 2T two stroke powered F1 Lotus.

[speedpro]

I can't remember the name of the guy but I met him at Norjo's a long time ago. He had an arrow, which he hated, but his wife wouldn't let him buy a new bike because the old one still went. Obviously the old one needed to break. So, he lockwired the throttle on full, started it and went inside for a cuppa. He reckoned he had to go outside 15 miutes later and turn it off as the neighbours came over complaining about the noise. Owen Galbraith??, can't remember, but that name springs to mind.

[Grumph]

I can't remember the name of the guy but I met him at Norjo's a long time ago. He had an arrow, which he hated, but his wife wouldn't let him buy a new bike because the old one still went. Obviously the old one needed to break. So, he lockwired the throttle on full, started it and went inside for a cuppa. He reckoned he had to go outside 15 miutes later and turn it off as the neighbours came over complaining about the noise. Owen Galbraith??, can't remember, but that name springs to mind.

Not Owen - his name would have been familiar as a racer of an Arrow back in the day. He moved on to various Kawasaki's incl a 750/3.
His Arrow experience came in useful there - I remember going around the outside of the Arrow on the sweeper at ruapuna and all you could see of him was one leg and an arm. Ground clearance was so poor he would hang right off it. The 750 kwaka was similar with no clearance....

[RomeuPT]

Hey folks. I had kept updated of this topic all the time and I have a question...

Been looking for some steel with some anti-rust capacity to try with motocross pipes.

Been searching arround in local stores and internet. And I think corten steel is a very good option. Also looking for 0,8mm corten to try hidroformed.

Does somebody here have used it to make pipes, I wonder if the copper makes a pipe cooler and if is easy to roll and tig weld.

Many Thanks

Romeu

[mr bucketracer]

Hey folks. I had kept updated of this topic all the time and I have a question...

Been looking for some steel with some anti-rust capacity to try with motocross pipes.

Been searching arround in local stores and internet. And I think corten steel is a very good option. Also looking for 0,8mm corten to try hidroformed.

Does somebody here have used it to make pipes, I wonder if the copper makes a pipe cooler and if is easy to roll and tig weld.

Many Thanks

Romeu

i use deep drawing .8 to 1mm steel , think corten is as tough as old boots and would not work , i would look into some kind of paint

[senso]

And why not the good old 306 or 316 stainless?

[2T Institute]

Meanwhile in Italy: http://www.kartingconnect.com/fuel-i...prototype-now/

My spies sent me this as well, email was titled "from web forums to serious competition"

[Frits Overmars]

My spies sent me this as well, email was titled "from web forums to serious competition"

hinged reeds, yummy! I must say they look better than my 24/7-prototype of 20-odd years ago. Please tell me more.

[RomeuPT]

And why not the good old 306 or 316 stainless?

Stainless is kind a nightmare to make properly... And probably impossible to hidroform...

Steel-Chromium maybe works....

[Yow Ling]

search Wobbly posts, he uses .8 mild steel (hot rolled maybe) given that he knows his shit about pipes , I would just copy him
1mm costs power, ceramic coating costs power, ss needs to be longer.