VFR owners' thread, for VFRPS members and prospective members

**vifferman** · 23rd May 2014, 13:06

Originally Posted by Erelyes

Nice bike!
Thanx!

Where did you get the clear front indicator lenses?
From teh interwebs: Thurn Motorsports, Germany.

What sort of exhaust has it got (pic?)
See pic up the page a bit (post #2818) - Staintune (Australia), or as I call it, "Satantune"

And two questions for the viffer gurus -
How do you find them commuting / filtering?
Anyone fitted mirrors with integrated indicators (ala Gixxer) to their 98-01 vintage RC46?

It's excellent for lane-splitting, as it's deceptively narrow; and if when you're sizing up a gap, it looks slightly wider than the mirrors, you'll fit.
Thurn do some mirrors with indicators, but I've heard some bad things about quality. There are some VFR owners who've modified GSXR ones to fit; I think a different mount needs to be fabricated.
And unfortunately, I don't think the VFR1200 ones fit the 800, and I'm not sure about the very latest VFR800 (just released!) - its mirrors have indicators in them, but I don't know if they'll fit either.
And it's a nice looking bike, with a new single-sided swingarm at last, (but the same heavy hub). Shame it's got camchains and VTEC... yet another incentive to keep my 2001....

**Icemaestro** · 24th May 2014, 15:02

Do any nc30/35 owners have a spare set of new or lightly used/known to be good carb rubber adapters?I suspect my ebay ones may be part of the cause of my carb troubles, but a new set seems to be at least 42 pounds or so (havent heard back from Rick O yet).

My NC30 carbs are driving me nuts - all seals etc have been replaced inside the carbs, I've cleaned them out with carb cleaner (though next job will be to go through with toothbrush), and carbs synced. However 1) choke doesn't seem to do a thing, can be very difficult to start from cold, 2) poor idle when either cold or warm, 3) slow to return to idle when rev'd when warm, 4) Crap power from idle to 7000RPM (over 7k is fine) I have also noticed that when I pull the choke in when riding above about 60km, my revs stay at about 2500 when stopped they settle to 1500. In particular I think the main problem is with the back right cylinder which is cold/warm (not hot) at idle, but warms up when rev'd.

I am running 115F/118R main jets (which I think are fine, though could probably increase) yamamoto half system and everything stock, including new air filter and plugs. As said earlier the carb to manifold adapters were the 30$USD ones from Ebay...they looked fine though?

My thoughts are that I need to replace the carb rubbers, open them up and clean out the pilot jets with toothbrush/wire, check/set float heights and check/replace the needles.

Anyone have any thoughts or good/cheap ideas?:-P.

**sil3nt** · 24th May 2014, 15:26

Did you buy that paddock stand off trademe?

Sorry can't help with your problem

**Icemaestro** · 24th May 2014, 15:28

haha Yessir I did!"-) Gotta be quick around here! I'm secretly hopeful I might be able to make something that goes on the other side of it to work with my other bike too, as there appears to be a small square bit like there was originally an adapter plate or something.

**HenryDorsetCase** · 24th May 2014, 15:36

Originally Posted by Icemaestro

Do any nc30/35 owners have a spare set of new or lightly used/known to be good carb rubber adapters?I suspect my ebay ones may be part of the cause of my carb troubles, but a new set seems to be at least 42 pounds or so (havent heard back from Rick O yet).

My NC30 carbs are driving me nuts - all seals etc have been replaced inside the carbs, I've cleaned them out with carb cleaner (though next job will be to go through with toothbrush), and carbs synced. However 1) choke doesn't seem to do a thing, can be very difficult to start from cold, 2) poor idle when either cold or warm, 3) slow to return to idle when rev'd when warm, 4) Crap power from idle to 7000RPM (over 7k is fine) I have also noticed that when I pull the choke in when riding above about 60km, my revs stay at about 2500 when stopped they settle to 1500. In particular I think the main problem is with the back right cylinder which is cold/warm (not hot) at idle, but warms up when rev'd.

I am running 115F/118R main jets (which I think are fine, though could probably increase) yamamoto half system and everything stock, including new air filter and plugs. As said earlier the carb to manifold adapters were the 30$USD ones from Ebay...they looked fine though?

My thoughts are that I need to replace the carb rubbers, open them up and clean out the pilot jets with toothbrush/wire, check/set float heights and check/replace the needles.

Anyone have any thoughts or good/cheap ideas?:-P.

I have read (though not done it myself) that the trick is to get the thing running then spray WD40 onto the carb rubbers when engine is running. You would do each one sequentially not all four together. If white smoke appears then that carb boot is sucking air in because it has also sucked in WD40.

Basically you could suck it and see right?: five minutes before you commence your stripdown. The idea I guess is that it is a complete PITA to get anywhere near an NC30's carbs particularly with the airbox in place. Like i say I have not tried it but am interested to see if it works.

**Icemaestro** · 24th May 2014, 15:39

I did try that last time I had the carbs off (well, before I took them off) - tried bth wd40 and carb cleaner, with no change in idle, though as said I suspect one cylinder intermittently fires at idle, so perhaps it just doesn't pick it up?

**Cam_Valk** · 24th May 2014, 16:04

Originally Posted by sil3nt

Did you buy that paddock stand off trademe?

Sorry can't help with your problem

Goddamnit, i wanted that stand as well.
Was wondering where that auction went.

**Icemaestro** · 24th May 2014, 16:06

Originally Posted by Cam_Valk

Goddamnit, i wanted that stand as well.
Was wondering where that auction went.

Swap a vfr and the stand for your rvf?

**sil3nt** · 24th May 2014, 16:32

I didnt really need the stand as I have an ABBA stand but it could have been useful to have around.

**Icemaestro** · 24th May 2014, 16:33

Oh, was it you I sold my Abba stand to back in 2011 or so? Good stand, though I always took 5 minutes just to get it on right

**sil3nt** · 24th May 2014, 17:20

Originally Posted by Icemaestro

Oh, was it you I sold my Abba stand to back in 2011 or so? Good stand, though I always took 5 minutes just to get it on right

Nah I got mine brand new a few months ago.

**Icemaestro** · 24th May 2014, 17:27

My mistake. Is it everything you dreamed it would be?Can/do you use it on other double swingarm bikes?

**HenryDorsetCase** · 24th May 2014, 17:29

Originally Posted by Icemaestro

Oh, was it you I sold my Abba stand to back in 2011 or so? Good stand, though I always took 5 minutes just to get it on right

I have one I bought on tardme but I think not from you because I had to then buy the specific kit to fit the NC30.

**Icemaestro** · 24th May 2014, 17:32

I sold mine to someone on here not via trademe. Who knows where it is now! I did see my old vfr for sale down in CHCH about 6-9 months ago I believe, I wonder if the HRC CDI is still with it...kick myself now for not selling that off separately (or keeping it!)