Point ignition wiring help

**Skunk** · 29th January 2009, 22:17

Cheers hmmmnz. I've changed the coil to a 'what-the-fuck-is-that' 6 volter that I found in the bucket bits shed and now I have a nice big fat spark.

Loverly. Now the carb...

**hmmmnz** · 29th January 2009, 22:50

good shit thats what i like to hear

i hope you are gunna run with a filter, fuck having to buy larger jets and fluff about jetting,
my rotary valve bike doesnt like starting without the side cover on, once running, it seems ok though, and makes the coolest noise

**Skunk** · 30th January 2009, 06:30

I'll run a filter - I don't have the cover. Find out tonight if it runs.

**Skunk** · 30th January 2009, 23:13

Well, it has everything it needs - fuel, spark, timing - but no go. Will try again tomorrow before heading off to Hawkes Bay.

**hmmmnz** · 30th January 2009, 23:32

whats the ring gap like??
is the plug getting wet??
as i said the rotary valve bikes dont seem to like to start with out a filter on them, they seem to need the resistance that it causes, try stuffing a rag around the carb (a clean one) to try and simulate having a filter on,
they also dont like having fuel dumped in the bottom end, and wont start with easy start or anything like that either.
are you getting any blow back from the carb when you kick it over??
the valve seal need to be good

fun times,
good luck with the racing tomorrow,
gimmee a yell if you want me to come over and have a squiz at the bike at some stage

**Skunk** · 2nd February 2009, 21:20

Well, I got it going. Squirted so fuel down the carb and away she went. Sounded pretty good too. So I took it to Hastings. Runs quite well for brief moments

First time I left pit lane and make it as far as the start finish line. Second time I made it further - all the way to turn one

Turns out the flywheel was free wheeling as soon as I back off the throttle

Oh, well, live and learn. Easy fix for the next meeting.

Thanks to everyone for the help and advise. Cheers to you all.

**craisin** · 2nd February 2009, 21:52

so you left the keyway out

sounds like the kind of thing I am likely to do from time to time. good luck

**Skunk** · 3rd February 2009, 06:26

Originally Posted by craisin

so you left the keyway out

sounds like the kind of thing I am likely to do from time to time. good luck

Nah, it sheared the key. I don't think the nut quite tightened on the taper before the thread ran out.

**craisin** · 3rd February 2009, 08:24

Originally Posted by Skunk

Nah, it sheared the key. I don't think the nut quite tightened on the taper before the thread ran out.

hmm im sure the brother from lyall bay will give it the eye and come up with a cure. Just as well it happened at low speed. If you were flat knacker it would have been sadder to say the least. The rear brake drums on my old 55 vauxhall would shear the key and damage the slot and I had to get it machine out to suit a larger key. And the guys from the machine shop encouraged me tap the brakedrum on with a piece of 2 inch pipe and a sledge hammer so you didnt stress the threads out pulling it on the taper. You needed the pipe to keep away from the threads and the area that the nut seats on and a smaller hammer would not be able to hit it square. I hope for your sake the nut has stripped.

Nowdays they have locktite

**hmmmnz** · 3rd February 2009, 19:13

i bought a wood drift key from the guys at shrodoco on tory street in the city, $3 i think,
they have a whole box of them of different sizes,
the indian guy in there is great when it comes to getting bits, and gave a random like me very good discounts when i replaced all the bearings in my engine, about 50% cheaper than the bike shops. and he was helpful unlike those fuckers

(apart from the bike shop in newtown, they have been good too

)
as for tightening on the thread, thats why they have washers

hehe

**Skunk** · 3rd February 2009, 19:25

Tony's Auto Centre now - and they don't seem to have any at the moment.
I don't think the nut tightened properly on the flywheel. It was tight but I suspect it was on the end of the thread. I'll lap the flywheel on and then fit a spacer to make sure it doesn't happen again.

**hmmmnz** · 3rd February 2009, 21:38

what really, i just got 1 about a month ago, and he had a whole box full of different sizes, who did you talk to??
dennis i think his name is, the indian looking guy is the best to deal with, the owner is a bit of a plonker,
what size do you need?? 3mm wide??
ill stop in tomorrow after work and have a word with him

**speedpro** · 3rd February 2009, 21:47

I had an engine with a BADLY corroded taper and a partly shagged keyway. I used Loctite bearing mount on the taper to eliminate any freeplay. Any nut holding one of these rotors in place should have a hardened washer under it. One of the best buys I have is my rattle gun. Bit of Loctite and spin it on with the rattle gun and it won't be coming off.

**Skunk** · 4th February 2009, 05:52

Originally Posted by hmmmnz

ill stop in tomorrow after work and have a word with him

I have a key now - thanks anyway. They're just around the corner from my work too.

**pete376403** · 4th February 2009, 20:17

I had a Kawasaki F9 Bighorn that used to shear the flywheel key, almost from new.
The key shouldn't play any part in stopping the flywheel from moving on the taper - it's only there to correctly locate the flywheel when it's put on.
I finally cured it by lapping the flywheel to the crankshaft taper with fine valve grinding paste. Once this was done and all the shit cleaned off with petrol, the flywheel went on, with a new woodruff key in place, the nut tightened to the correct torque and the flywheel never came off again.

I've also done this with Lucas and PAL magnetos on speedway motors

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