American wandering New Zealand

**Mrs Busa Pete** · 8th February 2009, 06:13

Originally Posted by the vet

I'd like to do a good trip in the Fiordslands......I'd rather do the less touristy, so think Doubtful sound would be best. I am looking for a good tour outfit that I can do a 3-5 day combined camping and kayaking trip in Doubtful sound. I have read a bit here and there, but looking for recommendations based on peoples experience. Anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks

Pete

Shit mate nearly a month since your last post you havn't got lost down there have you.

**portokiwi** · 8th February 2009, 06:44

Hope you are enjoying your time mate

**Hinny** · 9th February 2009, 06:07

Originally Posted by busa pete

Shit mate nearly a month since your last post .

It's not really good enough is it?

**Nasty** · 9th February 2009, 06:17

Aren't you due to start work next week???? Look forward to hearing from you.

**the vet** · 11th February 2009, 08:40

Sorry all, have been busy one adventure into another. So much to catch up on. Suffice to say that I'm fine. In Blenheim right now, getting on the ferry tonight, start work on Monday in Wellington.

Have loads of pictures and stories to share, will have more time to do that in Wellington in the next two weeks.

Look for the post: "2 months, 8000 km, 3 bee stings......"

coming soon.....

Kari, will give a call this weekend to say hi share pics and pic up my few knick knacks.

Pete

**Hinny** · 11th February 2009, 18:30

He's alive! ,,,,,,,,,,,

**longwayfromhome** · 12th February 2009, 04:17

Originally Posted by Hinny

He's alive! ,,,,,,,,,,,

....and sounding more and more like one of us.....

**the vet** · 15th February 2009, 14:45

...and so much more. Here I sit in Wellington, my new 'home' for now, with a flatmate I've known about 3 days. The first part of my NZ journey is over, the work phase begins tomorrow; 6 months in a vet practice in Animates here in Wellington. I spent just a bit of time on the North Island after arriving Dec 7. I saw a bit around the North Auckland area, and then Coromandel, then directly to the South Island where I was touring since I crossed on Dec 23.
The bike: The wee strom I picked up off of TradeMe in Hamilton turned out to be perfect for me, complemented with Jesse panniers and a givi topcase which I brought with me from the States. Added a set of TKC 80s in Wellington which proved a good decision as they held the road well wet or dry, and took me on gravel and 4wd roads and through water crossings over the footpegs deep...sometimes it seemed way over the footpegs deep....the bike stayed upright the entire trip. No mechanical issues, never faltered when starting up, never failed me on any surface attempted and a full tank range of over 400km. It turned out to be a good choice for me on this trip.

**the vet** · 15th February 2009, 15:06

My travel bible was the NZ Motorcycle Atlas (Hema Maps) authored by Peter Mitchell. Good maps with highlighted and rated routes with commentary about each highlighted route. Bonus; Most DOC campgrounds, fishing spots and other notable details marked on the maps. I arrived Picton later evening and took the Queen Charlotte in the dark. Made my way to Nelson, explored Motueka valley for some camping and fishing, stayed Golden Bay for a few days including the Aorere R up to the Heaphy track trailhead, and up to the top where I took the gravel road West around Whanganui Inlet and then down the West coast about as far as the Anatori R. I then left Golden Bay and made my way down the Motueka valley again to Murchison, backtracked to St. Arnaud and then took the Rainbow Rd along the Wairau and then Clarence Rivers down to Hanmer Springs where I spent New Years Eve. From Hanmer I travelled a fairly direct route to Christchurch where I spent a fair amount of time networking with local vets and learning about that market there. I met one vet who took me to his bach by Lake Coleridge and we fished together for 3-4 days. I stayed a few days in ChCh with 2 other local vets, one of whom's partners took me on a 6 hour day tour of Akaroa including the gravel hill roads.....on a beautiful day....thanks again Kenny!
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/al...ictureid=14322
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/al...ictureid=14182
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/al...ictureid=14177
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/al...ictureid=14166
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/al...ictureid=14161

**the vet** · 15th February 2009, 15:26

A quick overnight trip up to Kaikoura was mostly disappointment because of how overwhelming the tourism was....although the inland route (took the coastal road up and the inland back) and Kaikoura itself were gorgeous. I watched the weather and when the NW winds ceased, I headed West from ChCh over Arthurs Pass and on to Kumara where I spent a day and night at the horse races....a relief to be away from other tourists and among Kiwis enjoying that event on yet another beautiful day. And I won 3 place bets which paid for my food and drink for the day....bonus! From Kumara I had a date with some wilderness river fishing in the Reefton area, actually near to Ikamatua. I stopped in Blackball on the way there and spent about 2 hrs at "Formerly, the Blackball Hilton" talking to the owner and looking at the photo albums of local residents dating back to 1997. It seems like a pretty cool little and tight knit community, and Blackball is in a beautiful location with wonderful scenery. The owner is an avid motorbiker and commented that he would love to have his place known as a bike stop or destination.....ALL BIKERS WELCOME AT THE BLACKBALL HILTON! Its a must destination if you are doing the West Coast! I fished (note: all my river fishing with fly rod) a relatively inaccessible river by walking upstream (in the river, no track) for about 10 km where I camped 2 nights and fished for some beautiful big wild brown trout (see thumbnail above)...again the weather was perfect, the fishing great and the NZ bush beautiful....I didn't see another person for 3 days. After getting my fly fishing and NZ brown trout fix, I headed south down the coast. Mistake or not, I decided to leave Westport and Karamea for another time.
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/al...ictureid=14480
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/al...ictureid=14479
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/al...ictureid=14468
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/al...ictureid=14477
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/al...ictureid=18050
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/al...ictureid=18043

**Mrs Busa Pete** · 15th February 2009, 15:35

It sound like you have had the exsperance that most kiwis never do. I guess you are now fluten in the six differant diologs of new zealand. Bugger you have to start work now to save for the next adventure ( north island).

I didn't think you had 5kg spare to loss there mate you had better start eating up a storm to replace it.

**the vet** · 15th February 2009, 15:36

On the lower stretches of my wilderness river a herd of cows had been turned out to a fairly remote pasture, when one of a few of them saw me fishing in the river, they all charged over for a look. They stood there watching me with amazing curiosity. And when I crossed the river to fish the other side, they even began to follow me. One of them even came a bit into the river, looked back to see if others were following, then continued to follow me across, getting about 2/3 of the way across before he turned back....I got a good laugh out of their curiosity.
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/al...ictureid=17998
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/al...ictureid=17996
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/al...ictureid=17977
I think that last one wanted to come home with me.

I had to stop and take a photo of this sign near Greymouth. The true meaning behind the expression...."cheap as shit"......
....but my ever frugal nature had me wondering as I drove away from the sign...."I wonder how big the bag is..."

**the vet** · 15th February 2009, 17:19

I stopped in Hokitika to wander around a bit and check email and get some lunch at a little bakery which I ate on the beach. Mailed my broken fly rod back to Wellington (which appears to be lost...bugger!), went to the bank, then off again. It was good to be on the bike again, the road good, the sights awesome. I stopped in a little town called Hari Hari and decided to stay for 2 days. I'd had enough of my tent and got a little motel room. I got dragged back to the States when I checked email---my grandma dying in the hospital, old unresolved phone bill issues and my house--old renters moving out, new ones moving in....the real world is a drag. I spoke to local folks, tried to help the motel owner with her limping duck, fished a stream called the LaFontaine R. and was blown away by the size of some domestic red deer---big as the Elk I am used to hunting for in Colorado!

**the vet** · 15th February 2009, 17:35

The morning I left Hari Hari heading south to the Glaciers, I got a dose of the West coast rain....downpour. In no time flat there were torrents coming down out of the bush and flooding on the road. The rivers were raging. Until this time I'd experienced only little rain (the most being the day BusaPete and I drove down to Hamilton to pick up my bike). My feet stayed dry, my pants only leaked a bit at the seams in the crotch, hands wet because water running down the sleeves of my coat, jacket soaked through in spots. The Givi remained rain proof, but I did get some dampness (minimal) in the Jesse's. I felt like I couldn't get totally dry for the next 2 days. By the time I got to Franz Joseph, the rain was slowing down, but it stayed drizzly and grey for 2 days. I spent most of the day soaking in some hot pools in town and spent the night in a dorm room after talking with some young Czech republic guys and drinking cheap wine for much of the evening. Franz Joseph another busy tourist town....mostly European young backpackers. I visited both glaciers on a gray day the next day and then kept moving south. The glaciers are pretty cool, even if you have seen glaciers before. Their proximity to rain forest and the steepness with which they descend over short distance makes them kind of unique in my mind.

**the vet** · 15th February 2009, 18:03

Driving south after stopping at the glaciers was kind of an indecisive day. I was going to go all the way to Jackson Bay, eat at a seafood restaurant the Cray Pot and then camp. There was a tramp and even a DOC hut right on the shore and charter fishing in case I wanted to try some sea fishing. But along the way I learned the hut was closed for rebuilding and the Cray Pot was closed. So turned around and went to Haast. Stopped at the Antlers for a beer and some research, then decided to just keep going.

Now, that stretch of road, from Haast to Wanaka was the most beautiful for me so far on the trip. Huge beautiful braided river valley, lush steep hillsides, waterfalls everywhere....the Gates of Haast, the pass, the deep ravine...man that place was awesome. I stopped on the South side of the pass and camped at Cameron flat DOC grounds, ate a sardine sandwich for dinner, fished in the Makaroa R until the sun set and then went to sleep.