South Island getaway - riding through heaven...

[Virago]

Mutley and I got back last week from an 11 day trip around the South Island. Over 2,500km ridden on some of the most stunning roads, and some great memories of a most wonderful holiday.

This was the trip we had planned to do for the last two years, in fact we attempted it last year, but work got in the way again. This time though, there was nothing stopping us. I left my cell phone behind (customers couldn’t contact me, hehe…), and we loaded up the two Viragos.

This was planned to be an easy trip, with an average of only around 300km each riding day. This allowed us lazy starts and plenty of time for sight-seeing. With Mutley still on her restricted licence and riding her 250 Virago, it was our first major motorcycling tour together, so it was prudent for us to take it easy.

It was certainly an extravagant holiday, staying in hotels and motels (apart from a couple of stays in our caravan in Cromwell). But this was our first decent holiday for some time, so we thought we would treat ourselves.

We also planned our trip day by day, to take advantage of the best weather. This was a great move, in the 11 days we got slightly damp only twice. Not bad, eh?

In hindsight, the trip revolved around battery charger problems. The first was taking our digital video camera and forgetting the charger. The result, very few photos. More problems later…

Anyway, onward…!

[Virago]

The original plan had been to head south via the Catlins and then head to Fiordland, but with bad weather forecast for south and west, we headed inland.

Dunedin to Cromwell via the Pig Route was the decision, stopping for petrol at Ranfurly. A great ride, with a brief shower of rain at Chatto Creek – we resisted the urge to wimp out and shelter at Jantar’s place. We settled into a routine where Mutley went ahead and set the pace, and we pootled along at a comfortable speed, seldom getting to attention-getting speeds. Stopping the night at our caravan in Cromwell, we watched the weather forecast on TV and considered the options.

[Virago]

From Cromwell, we had a choice – west over the Haast, or stay on the east of the divide. With the weather on the West Coast still looking grotty, we decided to head over the Lindis Pass.

What a great ride. The road was excellent, continuous sweeping corners amongst tussocky high country scenery. Then the windy run down the other side followed by the high speed run into Omarama.

With the weather looking good at Mount Cook, we turned off at Lake Pukaki and were rewarded with some stunning views of the mountain as we headed toward it, winding our way along the side of the startlingly vivid turquoise lake.

We rewarded ourselves with a lunch at The Hermitage – expensive, but what a view! Resisting the urge for a nana-nap in the shadow of the mountain, we headed for Tekapo via the canal roads, and found ourselves a very nice motel for the night, in plenty of time to watch the weather forecast.

It wasn’t looking good. An icy cold southerly was due to sweep up the South Island, with rain and hail forecast for the whole island. We made the decision to head for Christchurch the next morning, and hopefully beat the weather there. While at Mount Cook, I had also noticed that Mutley’s rear tyre was getting a little thin, so we could take the opportunity to source a new tyre in Christchurch.

[Virago]

We started the run from Tekapo to Christchurch all wrapped-up against the cool conditions, but by the time we hit the Canterbury Plains we were feeling the heat, with the famous Canterbury nor’wester preceding the southerly front. Taking the inland “scenic” route, it was a pleasant road, without challenges.

However, Mutley had a bird strike at speed as we crossed the plains. Only a sparrow, but it caught her fair in the chest, in an explosion of dust and feathers. Not seriously hurt, she continued, but within a minute she was stricken with a severe allergic reaction. Eyes streaming and unable to see, she had to pull over. Luckily we had some antihistamines in our first-aid / medication kit, and with two different types of pills taken, she was back to normal within 20 minutes.

While stopped, I looked over the bikes, and was horrified to note that on Mutley’s bike the bolt holding the rear sub-frame and pack-rack was hanging out, with the nut missing altogether. Knocking the bolt back into position, we managed to overlay the bolt-head with a couple of cable ties, and nursed the bike into Christchurch. Cable ties – a biker’s best friend…!

Cycle Treads / Pit Lane Motorcycles in Christchurch were able to put a new tyre on Mutley’s bike while we had a late lunch. They also replaced the missing nut, lok-tyting it into place. Excellent service.

We had previously stayed at the Pavilions Hotel for work conferences, and being offered a good deal on a room we settled in, and watched the southerly front approach. The temperature dropped over 15 degrees in about as many minutes.

The weather forecast that night was a shocker, and our daughter phoned to warn us that it was actually snowing at our house in Dunedin. Being wimps at heart, and looking for an excuse to chill out in comfort, we decided to stay in Christchurch an extra day.

[Virago]

A lovely day off, doing the Art Centre, Art Gallery, and Museum. We left the bikes at the hotel and used Christchurch’s excellent bus services to avoid the icy rain squalls.

That night we checked the weather forecast. It was to remain cold and showery on the east coast and in the north, with clearing weather and warmer in the west. Better still, the long range forecast was for fine weather on the West Coast for several days. Although Mutley had been keen to head up Kaikoura way, it was plain that the West Coast would be the best place to head next.

[Virago]

Setting off the next morning, we had a bad start. Forgetting the width of my rearward facing pack, I moved off and hooked Mutley’s handlebar, dragging her over. Oops…! We were tangled together, but a guy jumped out of his car to help Mutley get her bike up. No harm done, other than embarrassment.

On the road, the air was still quite cold, and I cranked up the heated grips. Mutley, who didn’t have such luxury, was feeling the cold by the time we reached Arthurs Pass and stopped for lunch and petrol. Grinning, I wrapped her icy fingers in my toasted palms – she expressed a few choice words…

The Arthurs Pass road has got to be a motorcycling marvel. Despite the cold, we enjoyed the trip immensely. There are times when the beauty of this country overwhelms your senses, and this was one of them.

Pootling into Greymouth, we found a very nice motel for the night. With Mutley’s cell phone needing a charge, I realised I’d left the charger in Christchurch – sod it. Charger problem number two… . I shot into the main street and managed to get a new charger.

[Virago]

One of our goals for the trip was to spend a night at the Maruia Springs Thermal Resort. A real extravagance, but on the recommendation of Scumdog, we decided to treat ourselves. Phoning ahead, we booked in for the Indulgence Package. More about that later.

Not wanting to ride straight there via Reefton, we decided to go “around the block”. The ride up the coast to Westport was an absolute stunner, with a very light sea mist framing some glorious coastal views. Could motorcycling get any better?

After a brief jaunt into Westport for fuel, we headed inland via the Buller Gorge. Forget what I said before, motorcycle can get better… What a great road. Mutley really enjoyed this section, and set a good comfortable pace so that we could enjoy the scenery.

We made a side trip into Murchison for lunch, and then ambled our way south to Springs Junction, and on to Maruia Springs Resort.

What a treat in store for us. On arrival, we checked in, and were given Kimono Robes and Japanese sandals. We then checked out our room and the facilities.

Maruia Springs resort is a real get-away. No cell phone signal. No TVs. You are cut off from the outside world. And it is great.

The Indulgence Package covers room, three-course dinner, and breakfast the next morning (choice of English or Japanese). Full access (24 hours) to the open-air thermal pools, the use of a private spa, and a head-to-toe Japanese massage also included.

The massage was wonderful, freeing up those tight muscles after a day’s ride. Spoilt for me somewhat by having to hold back a fart, while a lovely little Japanese girl kneaded my buttocks…

The only draw-back with the open-air thermal pools – sandflies. Make sure you take some repellent. The private (indoor) pools are better though, and clothing is optional…

Feeling more relaxed than I had for years, a good night’s sleep followed a great afternoon and evening. Bliss…

[Virago]

The day started early. Mutley was awake before six, and suggested we head back to the pools. It was still completely dark as we walked through the chilly morning air to the steaming pools, which were completely deserted – we had the place to ourselves. Submerged, we laid back and looked at the starry sky, and watched as the sky eventually started to lighten in the east.

After a delightful breakfast, we reluctantly checked out, and hit the road.

Today’s plan – back to Greymouth via Reefton (completing the loop), then down the West Coast to Fox Glacier.

My bike was sluggish to start, but I didn’t think too much of it. But as the trip went on, it began to miss-fire. Suspecting a crook spark-plug or plug lead, I hoped that I could nurse it further through the trip.

Coming through Hokitika, the Wild Foods Festival was on, and as we rode through town the Air Force Aerobatics team were performing overhead. Quite an unexpected treat.

The ride was great, and the weather perfect, and we made it to Fox Glacier in good time. Checking into a new motel on the south end of town, we enjoyed a light meal at a restaurant, and made plans for the following day – down to Haast, then over the Pass the Central Otago. Yeah, that will do nicely.

[Virago]

Pummelling all our gear back into the packs (how does it seem go grow…?), we prepared to depart. I dried off Mutley’s 250 and started it up, then turned to my 1100. It wouldn’t start – the battery was dead. We attempted to roll start it without success. Bugger. Sunday in Fox Glacier…

Over to the garage. A couple of local guys were there filling up their ute and boat to go fishing, and offered their jumper leads. We got the Virago started, but it kept stalling. Something wasn’t right.

Asking at the service station, we were told that the mechanic was away for the weekend, back on Monday. Would they allow me access to the workshop to use a battery charger? Umm, no, they would not. Ah well, looks like we’re in Fox Glacier for the day, but I can think of worse places to be stranded. The weather was fine, we still had Mutley’s bike, let’s make the most of it.

It must have been quite a sight, as two tele-tubbies wobbled their way up to the Glacier on a rather overloaded Virago 250, and later down to Lake Matheson. We even had Japanese tourists taking photos of us. As other groups of bikers tried unsuccessfully not to stare, I resisted the urge to shout at them that we weren’t actually touring this way…

It was a lovely day.

[Virago]

Up early, and over to see the mechanic. I had left the bike outside the workshop, he had the battery out already and on charge. He confirmed that I had a crook alternator, but he disconnected the bike’s lights to conserve power, and assured me that with a bit of charge in the battery, I would make it to Cromwell without problem.

So off we went. My bike was running fine, and we enjoyed the coast run down to Haast, playing slalom around the camper vans on the less windy sections. Why do they always travel in packs…?

Over the Haast Pass, the ride was a delight. In the space of a little more than an hour, we went from lush West Coast rain forest, to rugged high country mountains, and on to the sparse and dry Central Otago hills.

Stopping at Makarora for fuel and a milkshake, we then carried on down past Lake Wanaka. As we approached the lake, we had quite a frightening experience. A car pulled out from a scenic viewing area ahead of us, and drove off down the road – on the wrong side of the road. Following him along the road, we thought he’d soon realise and pull left. Alas, no. Picking up speed, he hurtled round several corners. Fleeting thoughts of catching and warning him were abandoned as the real danger became apparent on this windy road. Getting anywhere near him on this road would invite certain death.

Going into a right-hand bend (with cheese-cutter barrier on the right), a camper-van came around the corner. Oh, fuck…

The car swerved right, but was thwarted somewhat by the cheese-cutter. The camper-van luckily also swerved right (on to our side of the road), and they passed without collision.

Mutley and I were still shaking when we got to Cromwell an hour later.

With our lovely old caravan awaiting us, it was like coming home.

Weather forecast time again, and one last route decision. We were due back in Dunedin in two days – did we have time for the run down to Fiordland? Alas, the weather was looking crap down there, but remaining fine inland. With the Plan B of staying in Central Otago and doing the Crown Range run instead, it wasn’t a hard decision…

[Virago]

Sleeping in the next day and having a long leisurely morning, it was after midday before we geared up, on yet another warm and sunny day. We headed of into the Kawerau Gorge, Queenstown bound, and happy to be riding together on the last full day of our holiday.

Approaching the Nevis Bluff, we were stopped in a queue at road works – they were rock blasting. One of the works crew wandered up the line, letting us know of the length of delay. He told us to move up to the head of the queue, to get a clean start. Nice one.

With a 30 minute wait in the sun, we stripped off some gear, and soon had lots of tourists leaving their cars and coming to check out the bikes. Nice one again.

Off again, we were soon on our old favourite – the Crown Range Road – delighting in the hairpin curves as the road zigzagged to the summit, and a stunning view. Down the other side, and a delightful run through the Cardrona Valley.

A stop for petrol and a very nice waffle ice-cream at Wanaka, eaten by the lake-front. Do we really need to go home tomorrow…?

Back to Cromwell via the Tarras road.

[Virago]

With no plans other than to ride home, we were in no hurry to get away. Mutley suggested that I take my bike up to the local service station, and ask them to charge the battery for a bit. Naaah, it’ll get me home, I assured her…

By mid-afternoon, we set off for home, with the weather looking doubtful. Very light rain met us at Roxburgh.

At Raes Junction, we were stopped by more road works for few minutes. Waved on, Mutley took off, and I didn’t. The big Virago stalled, the battery dead again. Fuck it…

Phoning our daughter, we got her on the way with rescue trailer.

My “biking adventure” finished in the work cage, looking at my poor old bike in the mirror, while watching Mutley disappear in the distance ahead. She had a great run through the Manuka Gorge, her mojo with her on the 250 Virago. She was beaming with joy as she dismounted at home. Bah bloody humbug…

[Virago]

Regrets:

As weather-wimps, we missed out on some yet-to-be-ridden roads, in the south-west and north-east of the island. However, as a result, we rode some wonderful roads in glorious weather – and seldom had to back-track on a road already ridden.

Our heavy expandable packs, mounted on rear-facing racks, made our bikes top-heavy and unbalanced, particularly Mutley’s little 250 – it could barely sit on the side-stand. Next time we’ll pack lighter and smarter.


Delights:

People are nice. Most bikers on the road waved (yes, even the Harley riders) – I estimate a wave rate of over 80%. When stopped, the bikes drew people, often making them stop to say hello.

Aside for the ubiquitous camper-vans, the South Island is a motorcycling delight. The stunning scenery changes constantly.

On a road trip like this, it can often take a day or two to relax, and to find your mojo. When it all falls into place, the feelings of euphoria and internal peace drown out all negativity.

The best part of the trip? Being with Mutley. After 25 years of marriage, it is good to re-affirm the love. But it is wonderful to be reminded that we’re still best of friends.

When’s our next holiday, dear…?

[NighthawkNZ:Me]

Cool write up... (or write ups) bugger about the bike... was funny when Xaria told me... after the text msg

glad you made it past the crazy wrong side of road car

ummm when our next holiday trip Xaria

[Jantar]

Great to hear you both had a marvelous time. A good write up of another great ride. Now, about that Japanese massage?