Tales from the Emporium

[Padmei]

Yep. That's the way to do it.

Your Sony is also underexposing by 2/3 of a stop but don't let that worry you.

:yes:

Well if I understood what you said I might be quite worried - ignorance is bliss:laugh:

Thanks Aslan youre a damn fine looking man yourself - don't think I haven't noticed...:shifty:

[Paladin]

Looks like the guy I got my DR from is selling his replacement DR now.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Dual-purpose/auction-203027292.htm

Maybe he'd exchange it for my '09 KLX save me selling it for $7k first! ;)

[NordieBoy]

Maybe he'd exchange it for my '09 KLX save me selling it for $7k first! ;)

I dunno. He's probably not looking for a first proper dirt bike at his age :scooter:

[MXNUT]

Damn fine looking fellow Padmei!



Thanks Aslan youre a damn fine looking man yourself - don't think I haven't noticed...:shifty:

Take it easy there Guys, there are young and impressionable minds reading this forum :eek:

[Paladin]

I dunno. He's probably not looking for a first proper dirt bike at his age :scooter:

Yeah I bet he's not! Just wishful thinking! :yes:

There's a nice DR650 in Porirua near me, already with IMS tank, Barkbusters, cycle works pipe, renthal bars, bashplate - good to go! Just needs a Pack Rack added, kind of a shame the KLX isn't already sold so i have cash in hand! Its a tad more than I was gonna spend but it looks exactly the part for my needs! (right where's the bank managers phone number? :yes: )

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Dual-purpose/auction-203969330.htm

He's away til March 7th so think I'll give him a call on that one!

I can see now I have come down pretty much firmly into the DR650 camp I am gonna have to get on and get the KLX sold and get on with it! The DR would be kinda handy for the long trek up north for the King Country ride!!!

[NordieBoy]

There's a nice DR650 in Porirua near me, already with IMS tank, Barkbusters, cycle works pipe, renthal bars, bashplate - good to go! Just needs a Pack Rack added, kind of a shame the KLX isn't already sold so i have cash in hand! Its a tad more than I was gonna spend but it looks exactly the part for my needs! (right where's the bank managers phone number? :yes: )

Check to see if the airbox has been opened up and it has a DynoJet kit.

It'll be running really lean if he's just bunged the pipe on there...

[Paladin]

Check to see if the airbox has been opened up and it has a DynoJet kit.

It'll be running really lean if he's just bunged the pipe on there...

Thanks Fran, appreciate the heads up! :niceone:

[marks]

I dunno. He's probably not looking for a proper dirt bike at his age :scooter:

Paladin said KLX not KLR :rolleyes:

[Ally67]

Cool. It's automatically added the last photo...
<table><tr><td><script type="text/javascript" src="http://www.flickr.com/badge_code_v2.gne?show_name=1&count=5&display=latest&size=m&layout=h&source=user&user=7315641%40N06"></script></td></tr></table>

OOOOOOH and AAAAAAAAH, whats that shiney thing in you hand ? I like shiney things

BTW do ya reakon a carb or 2 of a 86 or there abouts gsxr 750 would fit on the dr, been offered a couple to try.


Paladin said KLX not KLR :rolleyes:

Oh really :yawn:

jatz

[GaZBur]

I know what that is. I sent it and I overcharged him $2.40 for the freight too. So they know who NordieBoy is at that address you gave me, have you changed your name to that by deed poll? Hope it turns out well for you. Seeing as you asked its a Speights I spent the extra $2.40 on and having it right now?
Cheers Nordie.

[NordieBoy]

OOOOOOH and AAAAAAAAH, whats that shiney thing in you hand ? I like shiney things
Mikuni TM38 Pumper Carb.


BTW do ya reakon a carb or 2 of a 86 or there abouts gsxr 750 would fit on the dr, been offered a couple to try.
Depends how much money you want to spend. Anything can be made to fit.


I know what that is. I sent it and I overcharged him $2.40 for the freight too. So they know who NordieBoy is at that address you gave me, have you changed your name to that by deed poll? Hope it turns out well for you. Seeing as you asked its a Speights I spent the extra $2.40 on and having it right now?
Cheers Nordie.

Well there's me, Jenni and Fluffy the cat at that address so it wasn't too hard :)

I don't think it's ever been on a DR650.
It only needs a sleeve on the manifold side and some jetting.
Should only take 5 mins or so :lol:

[NordieBoy]

I know what that is. I sent it and I overcharged him $2.40 for the freight too. So they know who NordieBoy is at that address you gave me, have you changed your name to that by deed poll? Hope it turns out well for you. Seeing as you asked its a Speights I spent the extra $2.40 on and having it right now?
Cheers Nordie.

Also...
Have you had a look around for a Mikuni HS40?
It's the TM40 but for Harleys.
A Harley shop may have some lying around...

Just need to change the jets...

[GaZBur]

Also...
Have you had a look around for a Mikuni HS40?
It's the TM40 but for Harleys.
A Harley shop may have some lying around...

Just need to change the jets...
Ahhhh - so thats what I get every time I do a search. Thanks for the tip. I will start looking again soon as I recover from buying the new set of roadrace tyres. I am about to put the knobblies on the DR for the Mini TT clubmans race tomorrow. Its going to be a MUDmans race not a clubmans I suspect. Still I need the points if I am to get anywhere in the series this year.

[pete376403]

OOOOOOH and AAAAAAAAH, whats that shiney thing in you hand ? I like shiney things

BTW do ya reakon a carb or 2 of a 86 or there abouts gsxr 750 would fit on the dr, been offered a couple to try.jatz

A friend fitted two GSX750 carbs to his Aprillia Pegaso. Externally exactly the same carb, but the GXR versions were "adjustable" whereas the Pegaso ones had no provision for changing anything (Euro pollution regs, probably).
Took a bit of fiddling but he got the peggy running much better.

[NordieBoy]

Well I really like the robustness of the Shinko SR244 rear tyres.
Was out in Hope and decided to have a quick look up Ben Nevis to check the gravel condition and it's perfect :D When half way up the final climb to Ben Nevis I got a bent nail in the rear tyre.
No rim-lock and it's lasted and not broken the bead all the way home - 35km @ 50kph max.

Almost an hour to change the bugger.
Last time this bugger broke the bead easily.
This time I had to use the multi purpose centre stand and swing off the side of the bike :D

[Woodman]

How the hell do bent nails end up all over the place????

[NordieBoy]

How the hell do bent nails end up all over the place????

People dump shit on the side of the road up there...

[thommo77]

============================

[NordieBoy]

Put an old Bridgestone M39 with plenty of tread on the spare front wheel the other day.
Got a rimlock for it today.

I need to plan ahead with these things :o

Also just found the M39 is a very soft terrain tyre...

[warewolf]

Also just found the M39 is a very soft terrain tyre...Could be very squirmy if the day is dry... which it's looking like :2thumbsup

[Woodman]

Could be very squirmy if the day is dry... which it's looking like :2thumbsup

Thank f$#@% for that.

[NordieBoy]

If it's dry I'll leave the MT21 on then.

[NordieBoy]

The M39 rubber is cracking and I don't think I'd trust it for a days riding.
Looks like I'll be using the MT21 then.

Hey Padmei. There's a mint M39 here you can use if you want.

[NordieBoy]

I love this helmet.

But...

The cheek pads are too thick by my jaw and are putting too much pressure on over multi-hour rides.
I've got the importer getting me some 5mm thinner ones but in the meantime I thought "How hard could it be" and had a go at bodging a fix...

Slit open the pads and pulled out a bit of the foam and trimmed a wedge off each side.
The left was sweet and the right still needs a little more trimming.

The red outline is how much I've trimmed.

[Padmei]

Slit open the pads and pulled out a bit of the foam and trimmed a wedge off each side.
The left was sweet .


Mmmmmm sour cream or tom sauce on that wedge:drool:

[NordieBoy]

Mmmmmm sour cream or tom sauce on that wedge:drool:

Ambrosia in Richmond...
Wedges with sour cream and sweet chilli.

Mmmmmmmm :drool:

[NordieBoy]

My first RK 525 XSO chain lasted 8,500km untill it was as dead as Padmei's front MT21...

My 2nd RK 525 XSO chain has lasted 17,000km so far and has 1 notch on the adjuster to go to match the 1st one.

I've used the same rear 43t sprocket with both chains.
For some reason it was still in mint condition even with the stuffed 1st chain.

I think I'll go to a DID this time.
Still tossing up 525 vs 520 though.

[Padmei]

I've decided my MT21 is just about reaching it's prime.





How deep is the canvas on those:confused:

[Woodman]

I've decided my MT21 is just about reaching it's prime.





How deep is the canvas on those:confused:

That tyre of yours is the reason i didn't take you up on the offer of a ride at the laidback.

[NordieBoy]

That tyre of yours is the reason i didn't take you up on the offer of a ride at the laidback.

Just lean it over.
Plenty of tread there :D

[NordieBoy]

I've decided my MT21 is just about reaching it's prime.





How deep is the canvas on those:confused:

Once you pull that sucker off you'll find how thin it is :D

I thought I had plenty left on my E07 rear. When we pulled it off you could put one finger on the inside and one on the outside and feel your own fingerprint :lol:

[junkmanjoe]

Just for you nordieboy

[NordieBoy]

Up the Maungatapu for a posing session...

http://www.photostorage.nelson.geek.nz/sports/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20090327%20Maungatapu/slides/20090327-163306.jpg (http://www.photostorage.nelson.geek.nz/sports/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20090327%20Maungatapu/index.html)

[NordieBoy]

Just measured the old and new(ish) chains.
The old one is 3mm longer over 20 pins.
That makes about 3cm longer over 110 links :woohoo:

[warewolf]

Does the DR manual quote a length for the wear limit?

The KTM books say 272mm for 18 pins is the wear limit on the 520 chain (same pitch as 525). I've found as the chain gets to about that, wear accelerates dramatically. This point is about where the chain can be lifted off the rear sprocket by 30-50% of the teeth height - as a rough guide.

[NordieBoy]

Does the DR manual quote a length for the wear limit?

The KTM books say 272mm for 18 pins is the wear limit on the 520 chain (same pitch as 525). I've found as the chain gets to about that, wear accelerates dramatically. This point is about where the chain can be lifted off the rear sprocket by 30-50% of the teeth height - as a rough guide.

I'm 1mm over the wear limit for 21 pins.

I've gone 1/3 of the way to a 520 conversion.
Just put on a new 44T 520 rear sprocket (RGV 250).
With the 15T front the chain adjuster is on "0" :D

Can't wait 'till I get my new 14T front to try with it.

[NordieBoy]

The next farkle is on the way...

Shouldn't intiminate the competition too much :D

[Squiggles]

The next farkle is on the way...

Shouldn't intiminate the competition too much :D

Sweet, Am keen to hear if you reckon they're worth the money

[NordieBoy]

Sweet, Am keen to hear if you reckon they're worth the money

Sounds like they're well worth $150us but not the $300us they normally cost (the special finished on Friday).

[NordieBoy]

They're on their way :headbang:

[cooneyr]

They're on their way :headbang:

Your going to have to explain or is there a post that I've missed somewhere. What the hell is it???

Cheers R

[NordieBoy]

Your going to have to explain or is there a post that I've missed somewhere. What the hell is it???

Cheers R

No missed post.

It's a secret :whistle:

[NordieBoy]

Oh OK then...

Think better cartridge emulators.
They've got an inertia valve that responds to the wheel movements and if it's the chassis moving the damping stays harder.

Racetech emulators work on flow rate. Enough flow and the shim stack bends, bypassing more oil.

The inventor also invented the rising rate mono shock on most of our bikes. He also developed shocks with the inertia valve for Citroen and with them they won 3 Dakar's in a row.

He designed these for Harleys but as he rides a DR650... :D

Bonus with these is they're tuned for 5w oil so you don't need to drill out the compression holes in the damper rods.
Pull the forks, remove the springs, drain the oil, drop the intiminators in, fill up with 5W, trim the spacer, put the springs back in, put the forks back in, ride.

Apparantly they really reduce dive and are still supple over bumps.

Jesse (Keintech) and Rick (Cogent) both think they've got more potential than the competition.

Normal price is $300us but there was a weeks special at $150us.
I don't think they're worth $300 but as I was looking at getting RaceTech emulators anyway $150 was cool...


<object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/TA0NHDMsKNc&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/TA0NHDMsKNc&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>


You type all that and then click on the button that says "Post quick reply" :lol:

[warewolf]

Racetech emulators work on flow rate. Enough flow and the shim stack bends, bypassing more oil.
RaceTech emulators are only a poppet valve not a shim stack like in shocks or cartridge forks, that is, just one non-bending shim held by a spring. These new ones actually have a shim stack++.


Bonus with these is they're tuned for 5w oil so you don't need to drill out the compression holes in the damper rods.Is that because the DR650 runs greater than 5W as standard? Because otherwise it wouldn't make sense.

[NordieBoy]

Is that because the DR650 runs greater than 5W as standard? Because otherwise it wouldn't make sense.

10W stock.

[marks]

are they available for really important bikes like klr's??

[NordieBoy]

are they available for really important bikes like klr's??

Yesterday, no.

Today, yes :D

https://store.ricorshocks.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=42

Buuuuttttt... Full price at the moment...

[cooneyr]

Yesterday, no.

Today, yes :D

https://store.ricorshocks.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=42

Buuuuttttt... Full price at the moment...

Yer but only for the 02 to 07 model. Does the new model have the same forks?

[NordieBoy]

Yer but only for the 02 to 07 model. Does the new model have the same forks?

1987-2007.

The new models suspension is soooo improved it dosn't need them.

It's got wavy brake discs ya know :D

[NordieBoy]

Broke my XR250 yesterday :(
Was in a good battle and hitting 96kph down the back straight when the bike started only going to half throttle. At the start of the back straight on the 3rd or 4th lap the stopper on the end of the cable pulled out of the throttle tube.
Coasting to a halt with the engine ticking over nicely is quite nice compared to some other ways to DNF :D

I got a prize at prizegiving for the longest push :woohoo:

It takes more effort to push a bike than to ride it.

[NordieBoy]

Wonder what the hell this is the courier dropped off today?

[Padmei]

They look suspicious ly like cartridges out of a sink tap but I'm picking some thing to do with racing shocks - or similar

[NordieBoy]

They look suspicious ly like cartridges out of a sink tap but I'm picking some thing to do with racing shocks - or similar

Developed by the Suzuki MotoGP team (bet you didn't know they used a DR650 as the base for the GP bike) to make the GP bike handle better over potholes, erosion ruts and pedestrians.

They're a higher tech version of RaceTech cartridge emulators.
If the wheel moves suddenly over a bump the brass inertia valve lags behind in the movement, uncovering some more holes and reducing the compression damping. As the valve catches up it closes off the extra holes thus smoothly increasing the compression damping.

Effectively a harder damped than stock front end on smooth stuff and also softer than stock on bumps.

[NordieBoy]

Before Intiminator installation...
http://www.photostorage.nelson.geek.nz/sports/motorsport/mybikes/DR650/20090422%20Ricor%20Intiminator/slides/20090423-125228.jpg

After Intiminator installation...
http://www.photostorage.nelson.geek.nz/sports/motorsport/mybikes/DR650/20090422%20Ricor%20Intiminator/slides/20090423-143653.jpg

Makes it look a lot better.

[NordieBoy]

OK. First thoughts...

Far less brake dive and really stable through the corners with the chassis movements hard compression damping.

Hit a square edge bump and the initial whack up through the bars isn't there but you do still feel it after that.

I think that using my Eibach springs means that it's over-sprung now as with the stock springs the harder chassis compression damping means the suspension is held higher in the stroke and when you hit a bump and the damping goes soft for a bit the quicker rebound damping is more matched to the stockers.

Easy enough to find out though.
Pop the fork caps off, carefully pull out the springs, drop in the stockers, spacers, do the caps up...

Hmmm... I think I'll contact the manufacturer and ask about the effects of heavier weight oil...

[NordieBoy]

Popped the fork caps off, carefully pull out the springs, drop in the stockers, spacers from the spare bike, do the caps up...

Off for a ride, some speed bumps, potholes, gravel, corrugations.

Not a hell of a lot of difference :wacko:

Going from .48kg straight wound Eibach springs to .4kg progressive OEM springs should have made a huge difference.

The bike still sits higher in the stroke and sharper bumps on the road are still definately reduced as is brake dive.

Maybe a little less preload for the next test and then try the Eibach spring with less preload and 7.5W oil to slow the rebound damping...

I like playing :2thumbsup

[Padmei]

Have you tried moving the stickers to a more prominent position?

[NordieBoy]

The steeker is in a more prominant place.

The bugger is 9x29cm!

Not too many bikes could take it :oi-grr:

[NordieBoy]

Dropped in the stock springs and spacers yesterday and took it out for a ride...

It felt very similar to with the Eibach springs <_<

The aim today was to test it out along my favorite rocky trail with the stock springs/spacers and then drop in the Eibach springs and trimmed spacers and go rocking again.

Part 1 went well except for the nail in the rear tyre. I covered about 10 holes with 4 patches but missed some :(
I couldn't get the bead to seat so just rode it...
100 pumps of the mtb pump = 100 seconds of riding.
Rinse and repeat for 5 km of trail, 5km of gravel, 3km of seal.

Next test is going to be a week with the stock springs and 5mm preload followed by a week with the Eibach springs with 5mm preload.

I love this game :2thumbsup

[Woodman]

Are you collecting nails now?

[NordieBoy]

Are you collecting nails now?

They could be useful.

One entrance hole...

Lotsa exit holes...

[NordieBoy]

Cont...


Still missed some holes :(


Check out the jacked up mud crawler...
This is on the top side of the first bridge.
They kept going :first:

[topo]

Nordie, where'd you see that van? Jatz and i passed it parked on the side of the road about 5km down the valley from the Pelorus end of the munga with no one to be seen.

[buggsubique]

They could be useful.

One entrance hole...

Lotsa exit holes...

I gotta get me a double stand on the Africa - I couldn't bear the thought of a flatty without one...well actually that did happen and I elected to ride 60km on it and get a shop to do it...but she sure aint like the DR-Z where I could just lift it onto somethin to drop a wheel out...:doh:

[NordieBoy]

Nordie, where'd you see that van? Jatz and i passed it parked on the side of the road about 5km down the valley from the Pelorus end of the munga with no one to be seen.

Just above the bridge above the head of the dam at 12:12pm.

[Paladin]

I gotta get me a double stand on the Africa - I couldn't bear the thought of a flatty without one...well actually that did happen and I elected to ride 60km on it and get a shop to do it...but she sure aint like the DR-Z where I could just lift it onto somethin to drop a wheel out...:doh:

Haha, I bet! I can't even get the DR up onto a stand on my own, hate to even think what the Africa would be like!

(note to self - need to go to workout more!) :msn-wink:

[Woodman]

Haha, I bet! I can't even get the DR up onto a stand on my own, hate to even think what the Africa would be like!

(note to self - need to go to workout more!) :msn-wink:

When i got the klr I managed to lift it up onto the same stand I used for my xl600, and the klr squashed it.:bye:

[marks]

When i got the klr I managed to lift it up onto the same stand I used for my xl600, and the klr squashed it.:bye:

My trail bike stand won't go under the klr and using a floor jack just doesn't really work with the plastic bash plate. The center stand is just brilliant for chain lubing and wheel removal. Pity they are so ridiculously expensive.

[Woodman]

My trail bike stand won't go under the klr and using a floor jack just doesn't really work with the plastic bash plate. The center stand is just brilliant for chain lubing and wheel removal. Pity they are so ridiculously expensive.

Best thing to use is one of those quad stands on wheels when in the shed. haven't had cause for one out on a ride yet, but seems there is a nail colony on the maungatap at the moment so it is only a matter of time.

[NordieBoy]

Had to make some fork spacers that'll give me 6mm of preload today.

Started out with some bar stock...
http://www.photostorage.nelson.geek.nz/sports/motorsport/mybikes/DR650/20090426%20Fork%20Spacers%20etc/slides/20090426-110907.jpg

Turn it down untill it's transparent and face it off...
http://www.photostorage.nelson.geek.nz/sports/motorsport/mybikes/DR650/20090426%20Fork%20Spacers%20etc/slides/20090426-114405.jpg

Make another the same...
http://www.photostorage.nelson.geek.nz/sports/motorsport/mybikes/DR650/20090426%20Fork%20Spacers%20etc/slides/20090426-115036.jpg

This should help the front end and still enough stock for doing the same for the Eibach springs next week.

[NordieBoy]

They felt better than the OEM + Intiminators but next are versions at 21 and 26mm giving 10 and 15mm of preload.

The stock spacers are 40mm giving 29mm preload with the Intiminators in there.

The US guys seem to be using anything from 1/8 inch to 1/2 inch (3-13mm) preload.

[NordieBoy]

10mm preload versions got made and tested today.

The front feels much more comfortable and it still rides like the 5mm versions.

15mm preloaders next up...

[Woodman]

i see the $150 special is on for klrs at the moment. Spent too much on tyres and broken bits lately.

[NordieBoy]

Spent too much on tyres and broken bits lately.

You spend money on broken bits?

Doesn't that take the excitement out of it?

[Woodman]

You spend money on broken bits?

Doesn't that take the excitement out of it?

but without the bruises.

[Transalper]

Just got informed by the bike shop yesterday that the parts tally came to.....

$7300:shit:

Not including labour...Got news of mine today.
Whole thing is expected to be $3206.
I hope that's all inclusive.
I'm parting with some cash tomorrow and then the rest of what we need should be on the way, some of it is ex Japan (will take about ten days they reckon, yeah right :rolleyes:).... so not long now.

[NordieBoy]

Got news of mine today.
Whole thing is expected to be $3206.
I hope that's all inclusive.
I'm parting with some cash tomorrow and then the rest of what we need should be on the way, some of it is ex Japan (will take about ten days they reckon, yeah right :rolleyes:).... so not long now.

Wow. What bits broked on yours?

[Transalper]

Pretty much everything below the piston bore.
Hopefully the end receipt thingy will give a bit of detail.
I went and looked over it all when it was first disassembled... bent crank, broken gears and casings etc.
He's repairing what he safely can and replacing what he can't. Scavenged the odd part too.
3rd gear parts are in to their 2nd revision and we are getting the new ones.

[NordieBoy]

My bore and piston were shot and the cases were possibly repairable but the bits that blew out are too mangled to rebuild safely.

The head, clutch, stator, starter, starter torque limiter are sweet. But that's about it.

Going to clean up the ports and valve seats and stick the head on when I replace 3rd gear/s and the selector forks.
Maybe a cam re-grind too. There's a place in ChCh that has a DR650 profile and it's about $130 or so to get done.
Oh and a Hi-Comp piston...

I'll take some days off work and have a go at doing it myself at the bike shop.

[Transalper]

I had a nick out of the bottom of the bore well below the ring line and he reckoned he could clean it up but the rest of the bore was ok. I think we get a new/ another piston, or at least the bit that attaches it to the crank.

[NordieBoy]

http://www.kientech.com/DR650HiComPistonKit.htm

$190us for the piston, pin and metal base gasket etc.

[NordieBoy]

My brother just sent some pics of the boss's fun boat.

They just zipped from St Tropez to Cannes in it.

Basturd...

[pete376403]

I recall reading an article (in an American Mens magazine) yonks ago about power boats and it said of the Cigarette - "If you can't get laid in a Cigarette you'd probably strike out with a Time Square hooker".

Thats a f*cking nice boat.

Named for the boats that were used to smuggle cigarettes in to the US from Bermuda (IIRC)

[Woodman]

2 blowers per engine wow. You'd need a safari tank at least.

[warewolf]

I enjoyed watching Miami Vice (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miami_Vice) as a kid, lately I've been watching it again. Ground-breaking television at the time, and of course they use a few cigarette boats.

[NordieBoy]

9.1L V8 with twin superchargers and there's 3 of the suckers!

That's almost as much power as the yacht.
3 of 10,000hp, 3 turbo monsters.

[XF650]

Nordie - how did you find the new set up on the Reefton ride, in paticular the boulder bashing?

[NordieBoy]

Nordie - how did you find the new set up on the Reefton ride, in paticular the boulder bashing?

They went well.
I really liked the lack of front end dive under brakes and over the boulders with the short sharp suspension movements that's exactly where they are designed to do well.
I need to ride a DR with emulators to compare sometime.

A steering damper would have come in handy but I think we all would have benefited from one of them :D

[NordieBoy]

Just rambling here...

3rd gear on the 96-97 bikes gets a real whine on as the hardening goes...

Suzuki fix this by increasing the hardening.
What if this makes the gear more brittle?

2003 Suzuki fix this again...

Would explain why there's no <98 and >03 bikes in the blowup list...

[Transalper]

Here's an 05 one..... First post states it's an 05 (http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=709981&highlight=gearbox).

post #40 (http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showpost.php?p=7741330&postcount=40) confirms the problem.

edit... and your list from ADV... post #64 (http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showpost.php?p=7594629&postcount=64) 650 go crunch mentions an 04 and 05.

NordieBoy (NZ) 2001 60,000km
Transalper (NZ) 2001 55,000km
Rosscoact (AU) 2004 13,000km
Mardy (US?) 1997 53,000km
TH (NZ) 1999 40,000km
RubberCow80 (AU) 2001 25,000km (2nd gear?)
Philth (AU) 3 bikes <20,000km (2nd gear?)
BikeRooter (AU) 2006 10,200km
Madsdad (US) 2005 16,000km
briangv99 (??) ???? 21,000km
Is this no longer considered accurate? or is your memory failing?:blank:

[clint640]

Just rambling here...

3rd gear on the 96-97 bikes gets a real whine on as the hardening goes...

Suzuki fix this by increasing the hardening.
What if this makes the gear more brittle?

2003 Suzuki fix this again...

Would explain why there's no <98 and >03 bikes in the blowup list...

Not sure if it was 3rd gear, but a mates bro had his new one grenade itself in 07 (I assume 06 or 07 build) - it blew the whole back of the gearbox off at less than 1000km.

Cheers
Clint

[NordieBoy]

Brain fade. They did the new-new gear in 06 :doh:


Here's an 05 one..... First post states it's an 05 (http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=709981&highlight=gearbox).

post #40 (http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showpost.php?p=7741330&postcount=40) confirms the problem.

edit... and your list from ADV... post #64 (http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showpost.php?p=7594629&postcount=64) 650 go crunch mentions an 04 and 05.

Is this no longer considered accurate? or is your memory failing?:blank:

[NordieBoy]

Warewolf and I did swapsies up to the summit of the Maungatapu today.

I was surprised how similar the bikes were.

The 640A was much wider at the tank and you have problems getting forward as much as on the DR.
Once the KTM gets up around 5000rpm then it really sings but down low and mid range the DR gets the nod.
Front suspension is surprisingly close.
Rear suspension the KTM is much better although I'd like to compare a gold valved DR shock.
I found the KTM to be heavier/slower in the steering but as it's almost a degree steeper rake it should be sharper but the softer back end and tyre choice may have had something to do with it.
The DR is completely vibration free compared to the KTM.

I found myself catching the edge of rocks I would have avoided on the DR as the heavier front and lack of cognizance of exactly where the front wheel was conspired against me.

The big minus for me on the KTM was the width of the tank which for how I ride is a showstopper.

Again I was suprised just how similar the bikes felt.
Stock KTM 640A vs Modded DR650SE.

I have fallen even more in love with my bike :yes:

[Box'a'bits]

The 640A was much wider at the tank and you have problems getting forward as much as on the DR.

The big minus for me on the KTM was the width of the tank which for how I ride is a showstopper. :yes:

I find that with my 640a as well. Getting weight forward isn't an issue, especially if the tank has a bit of fuel in it. And the fuel sits low, so it doesn't really upset the bike. Its just that the tank flares out going forward. Add on a tank bag (which is useful to run), and it can be a bit of a pain, especially on steep rutty uphills, where you want to get forward on the bike, & grip the bike with your knees. That said, the big fuel tank is great most of the time.

The suspension on mine is great - its just that I'm often not aggressive enough with it to make it work well. When I'm in the mood it can fly. :2thumbsup

Vibes? I don't notice them now. Often to do with how you ride it & what revs you pull.

I looked at a DR650. But the overall KTM package (without the need to modify substantially) works really well for me. I bought my one with 20k kms on the clock for the same as a new DR650. Horses for courses.

[NordieBoy]

It was more the balance thing of getting my weight forward so I wasn't hanging off the bars and was more balanced.

[Box'a'bits]

It was more the balance thing of getting my weight forward so I wasn't hanging off the bars and was more balanced.

Yup, thats it.

[warewolf]

Intiminators are cheating... :clap: They work very well, I had to stop myself from testing them - deliberately aiming for the worst downhill bumps and braking over them - in order to ride the bike like you would normally. What rate springs are in there at the moment? The front end felt plush, and both ends okay except over bigger or faster bumps. The KTM's suspension works better when it is being worked harder.

The DR is narrower at the knees but wider at the crotch. As a result, it was better seated but for me it wasn't as comfortable to stand in a neutral position... slightly bandy-legged. Standing forward was better with the narrower tank, for sure. The tank bag practically can only be used for road touring, and even then it is getting in the way.

Fran's moved the pegs lower and backward. I'm closer to the mythical average rider than he is, the original position would suit me better I think (when standing).

The DR engine is great off the bottom, pretty linear but doesn't respond to throttle like the 640. In comparison the power curve of the 640 climbs steeply in to the mid-range. The DR doesn't transition from plod to power as swiftly. Not necessarily a bad thing. It builds power nice and steadily. And the only way to tell it is running at idle is to listen to the bark from the pipe when you blip the throttle. It doesn't shake the whole frame like the 640 does. :D It's like the engine is rubber-mounted... to someone else's frame. :lol:

Bear in mind the 640 is still fully Euro 2 compliant - if a little rich due to worn needle jet I suspect - and 5000rpm is closer to idle than to redline. Half the poorer low-down response is due to the emissions setup but half of it is just the top-endy nature of the design. Part of the reason for today's exercise was a second opinion for the before/after uncorking. Hmmm, and I just realised one reason to uncork it is to improve the throttle response!!

It seemed like the DR's first gear was lower, but in fact the 640 is markedly lower. A bit of research shows all the 640's gears are lower, but with a slightly wider spread, 3.06 vs. 2.93. First on the DR is nearly halfway between 1st & 2nd on the 640, and 4th on the DR is close to the 640's 5th. Of course sprockets/tyres change the overall - so the DR could still have had a lower first gear outright - but the DR has a whole extra gear up top, which explains the low cruising revs cfm the 640. What final ratio are you running?

So I did a little chart:
[edit: this includes the primary gears]
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/warewolf885/mc/tech/gearRatioComparison.jpg

The steering on the KTM is definitely sharper. First swift turn after getting back on it and I nearly mounted the kerb before the corner. The DR felt like it was suffering from 'chopper flop' (possibly a pointy front tyre issue) and the bars felt wider. Oddly, the KTM felt longer in the wheelbase (hah! it's 20mm longer). It would be interesting to look at wheelbase, steering offset (trail) and caster/rake numbers for the two bikes. Ok, DR vs 640: the caster is 61.5 vs 62.5 degrees; wheelbase is 1490 vs 1510mm; trail is 111 vs 124mm. So the KTM must be running much less triple-clamp & axle offset to get the greater trail despite the steeper rake (I think) [edit: yep, reducing offset increases trail].

I've got the 640 set up with more sag than it should have to help compensate for a spring that's too hard. Plus it has 40mm more travel, so more sag there too. But if Fran was raking out the 640 with too much rear sag, equally I was sharpening up the DR through too little.

I liked the E-07s (front & rear) very much in those conditions. The front let go a few times as is to be expected, but the rear gripped surprisingly well and slid when provoked very nicely with plenty of feedback. Although stepping the back out highlighted the difference in throttle response.

All in all a very well set up bike. The engine is nice and crisp - no doubt due to attention to the jetting. The whole front end - bars, bar position, suspension - just felt much better than others I've tried. In fact I was comfortable on the bike from the moment I got on it - doesn't happen often - with one caveat: I struggled to use the clutch one-fingered, feels like road bike levers not dirt bike levers. Could just be strange bike syndrome, but I kept trapping my fingers and having to resort to 4-fingers to try to get control... without stalling, falling, or rolling backwards.

Don't know that I'd be rushing to uh, "upgrade" any time soon, but I certainly wouldn't shy away from riding one like Nordie's.

[NordieBoy]

Intiminators are cheating... :clap: They work very well, I had to stop myself from testing them - deliberately aiming for the worst downhill bumps and braking over them - in order to ride the bike like you would normally. What rate springs are in there at the moment? The front end felt plush, and both ends okay except over bigger or faster bumps. The KTM's suspension works better when it is being worked harder.
The inventor of the Intiminators say they're like cheating too :D
The front is running the stock .40, mushy, soft, progressive spring not that you notice that with the Intiminators in there. It sits up better than the Eibach .47's.


The DR is narrower at the knees but wider at the crotch. As a result, it was better seated but for me it wasn't as comfortable to stand in a neutral position... slightly bandy-legged. Standing forward was better with the narrower tank, for sure. The tank bag practically can only be used for road touring, and even then it is getting in the way.
Now I've lowered the pegs the seat is too wide up by the tank and also needs to stay narrower for another 5-10cm back.


Fran's moved the pegs lower and backward. I'm closer to the mythical average rider than he is, the original position would suit me better I think (when standing).
The ergos of the stock seat would suit better (but not the foam).


The DR engine is great off the bottom, pretty linear but doesn't respond to throttle like the 640. In comparison the power curve of the 640 climbs steeply in to the mid-range. The DR doesn't transition from plod to power as swiftly. Not necessarily a bad thing. It builds power nice and steadily. And the only way to tell it is running at idle is to listen to the bark from the pipe when you blip the throttle. It doesn't shake the whole frame like the 640 does. :D It's like the engine is rubber-mounted... to someone else's frame. :lol:
It almost felt electric compared to the LC4.
This engine dosn't feel as strong down low as my old one and I think that's down to the old one being run-in harder and I got it at 7,500km vs this one that was run-in by the book and ridden pretty gently for the 28,000km before I got it.
The DR feels like it's got a lot more flywheel.
My XR250 was similar with the blipping and when we lightened the flywheel it would respond far better/more closely to the throttle action.


Bear in mind the 640 is still fully Euro 2 compliant - if a little rich due to worn needle jet I suspect - and 5000rpm is closer to idle than to redline. Half the poorer low-down response is due to the emissions setup but half of it is just the top-endy nature of the design. Part of the reason for today's exercise was a second opinion for the before/after uncorking. Hmmm, and I just realised one reason to uncork it is to improve the throttle response!!
Yep, similar feel/thoughts with the Nordwest. Twin cam vs single cam?


It seemed like the DR's first gear was lower, but in fact the 640 is markedly lower. A bit of research shows all the 640's gears are lower, but with a slightly wider spread, 3.06 vs. 2.93. First on the DR is nearly halfway between 1st & 2nd on the 640, and 4th on the DR is close to the 640's 5th. Of course sprockets/tyres change the overall - so the DR could still have had a lower first gear outright - but the DR has a whole extra gear up top, which explains the low cruising revs cfm the 640. What final ratio are you running?
At the moment I'm running 14/41 - 1 tooth smaller on the front.
1st gear is stupidly high compared to the rest.
If we gear it for a useful 1st then 5th is far too low.
Gear for a nice 5th and 1st is too high.
Wonder what a 2 tooth difference on the gears would make to 1st and 1 tooth to 2nd?


I've got the 640 set up with more sag than it should have to help compensate for a spring that's too hard. Plus it has 40mm more travel, so more sag there too. But if Fran was raking out the 640 with too much rear sag, equally I was sharpening up the DR through too little.
Are you saying I'm fat? :laugh:
It did feel like there was a lot of race sag on it though.
I've just adjusted mine so the back has a lot more (too much) just to see the difference and then adjust to find a happy medium.


I struggled to use the clutch one-fingered, feels like road bike levers not dirt bike levers. Could just be strange bike syndrome, but I kept trapping my fingers and having to resort to 4-fingers to try to get control... without stalling, falling, or rolling backwards.
The clutch is quite heavy but not as heavy as the one on the old motor. Partially down to the cable but the worse bit is I have some heavier springs to put in there too :D
I tried installing my Magura hydro clutch on the DR but there wasn't really room.


The steering on the KTM is definitely sharper. First swift turn after getting back on it and I nearly mounted the kerb before the corner.
It felt heavier and slower though. Almost like it had a steering damper wound up a bit much.


Don't know that I'd be rushing to uh, "upgrade" any time soon, but I certainly wouldn't shy away from riding one like Nordie's.
I think the KTM is more suited to "spirited" riding where you are brake sliding into corners and power sliding out and the throttle response would be a bonus but will be interesting to see what happens to the bottom end with the un-corking.

I won't be rushing to "upgrade" soon either. But again won't say no to the occasional blat :D

My next upgrade will be to the rear suspension as that's where the issues are now.

[NordieBoy]

It was nice to get back on the DR though.
All the levers where they're supposed to be :D
Esp. the rear brake...

[warewolf]

The front is running the stock .40, mushy, soft, progressive spring not that you notice that with the Intiminators in there. It sits up better than the Eibach .47's.Hell yes, they definitely felt stronger than the .46s in the KTM.


The DR feels like it's got a lot more flywheel.I think that's why I didn't stall it when struggling with the clutch.


Yep, similar feel/thoughts with the Nordwest. Twin cam vs single cam?Don't think so, not in itself. 2 valve vs 4, yes. 2v are torquier off the bottom, 4v better flow at high rpm. Design choice methinks. The 640 makes peak torque at 5500rpm and the curve is very flat from there to redline - a band 3000rpm wide at 90-95% of peak power. Top-endy but not peaky.


At the moment I'm running 14/41 - 1 tooth smaller on the front.
1st gear is stupidly high compared to the rest.
If we gear it for a useful 1st then 5th is far too low.
Gear for a nice 5th and 1st is too high.
Wonder what a 2 tooth difference on the gears would make to 1st and 1 tooth to 2nd?I will do a gearing vs road speed chart comparo. I was running 16/44 and had a 1" bigger diameter rear wheel... no wonder the DR was easier to get going!! The DR was effectively 2T smaller at the front.

Will redo the gearing chart with your changes. It's apparent that there's not much of a step 1st to 2nd. 'swhy I did the chart, easier to see than decimals.


Are you saying I'm fat? :laugh:
It did feel like there was a lot of race sag on it though.It's all relative. :innocent: Race sag for me is 98mm, pretty much spot-on the generic 1/3 of travel amount. WP say 90-100mm, KTM say 80-110. But the issue is the static sag, which is 2-3 times what it should be due to the reduced preload to get the correct race sag number. The standard preload gives 69mm of race sag, too little. At shed night we'll crank it up to say 85mm.


The clutch is quite heavy but not as heavy as the one on the old motor. Partially down to the cable but the worse bit is I have some heavier springs to put in there too :DWhy???


It felt heavier and slower though. Almost like it had a steering damper wound up a bit much.Umm, steering head bearings are slightly notched and needing replacement, and I've got them strongly preloaded to help damp out some headshake (gone now) induced by crappy suspension setup I used to have.


I think the KTM is more suited to "spirited" riding where you are brake sliding into corners and power sliding out and the throttle response would be a bonus but will be interesting to see what happens to the bottom end with the un-corking.Indeed, on both counts. Horses for courses, a bit like the Thunderbike lads who all picked the SuperDuke as THE bike to take for a fang, but the LAST bike they wanted for the week-long staff tour.


But again won't say no to the occasional blat :DAny time. :D


All the levers where they're supposed to be :D
Esp. the rear brake...Mine is quite low to suit my poor ankle articulation, with a fair bit of play so I can rest my foot on it without activating it - more like a dirt bike setup. It's also got a sharper response so it's easier to lock on demand (sintered pads does most of that). Long throw with a short take-up. I noticed the DR was much softer in its action requiring a heavy boot to lock.

All the controls are set up for convenient access while standing. If it's smooth enough for me to be sitting, I can tolerate the controls being difficult to reach... and they are, when seated.

[warewolf]

1st gear is stupidly high compared to the rest.
If we gear it for a useful 1st then 5th is far too low.
Gear for a nice 5th and 1st is too high.
Wonder what a 2 tooth difference on the gears would make to 1st and 1 tooth to 2nd?Here ya go:
[edit: this includes the primary gears, too]
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/warewolf885/mc/tech/gearRatioComparison2.jpg

http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/warewolf885/mc/tech/gearRatioComparison.jpg

[NordieBoy]

Don't think so, not in itself. 2 valve vs 4, yes. 2v are torquier off the bottom, 4v better flow at high rpm. Design choice methinks. The 640 makes peak torque at 5500rpm and the curve is very flat from there to redline - a band 3000rpm wide at 90-95% of peak power. Top-endy but not peaky.

They're both 4 valve heads :D

[NordieBoy]

Mine is quite low to suit my poor ankle articulation, with a fair bit of play so I can rest my foot on it without activating it - more like a dirt bike setup. It's also got a sharper response so it's easier to lock on demand (sintered pads does most of that). Long throw with a short take-up. I noticed the DR was much softer in its action requiring a heavy boot to lock.

All the controls are set up for convenient access while standing. If it's smooth enough for me to be sitting, I can tolerate the controls being difficult to reach... and they are, when seated.

Same - all set up for easy access when standing.

[NordieBoy]

Here ya go:

That's better ratios.
Wonder if Bruce can make 4 new cogs for me.

I'd hazard there'd be a few overseas sales too.

[warewolf]

They're both 4 valve heads :DOh I knew that, which is why I didn't think the cam count would make much difference (DOHC has some benefit to combustion chamber shape).


Wonder if Bruce can make 4 new cogs for me.That's only 2 cogs modified. 2t off one 1st gear cog, 1t off one 2nd gear cog. If you meant 2t off each 1st gear cog, then the improvement will be double that shown.

[NordieBoy]

Oh I knew that, which is why I didn't think the cam count would make much difference (DOHC has some benefit to combustion chamber shape).

That's only 2 cogs modified. 2t off one 1st gear cog, 1t off one 2nd gear cog. If you meant 2t off each 1st gear cog, then the improvement will be double that shown.

Traditionally twin cam heads are more revvable than single cam.
Which is why people looked with suspicion on the CRF with it's new fangled "UniCam" design.

But would there be room to make 1 cog 2 teeth bigger and not do anything to the other?

Hmmm... 1 tooth difference on 2nd and 1 tooth on each of 1st's drive and driven gears...

[marks]

well all this waffle is really interesting shit (I'm not taking the piss either) - better than half the generic bullshit you read in bike mags :yes:

how much will it cost to get my klr assessed once I finish futzing with it?

[warewolf]

how much will it cost to get my klr assessed once I finish futzing with it?You have to help pick the fecker up...

[NordieBoy]

how much will it cost to get my klr assessed once I finish futzing with it?

We'd need to test it in the same places to get a comparison.

How well does it handle deep grit on a steep slope?

I wanna see what that Rekluse is all about :D

[Woodman]

Bloody hell, who wants to test mine?

before you start running for the hills we don't have to swap bikes.

[NordieBoy]

Depends. Is it going to be in one(ish) piece some time soon?

[Woodman]

Depends. Is it going to be in one(ish) piece some time soon?

Yup, should pick up me shims tomorrow and may stick em in one night if its not too cold, then shes all set for another bash. Should have me new tank this week too.

[marks]

You have to help pick the fecker up...

I would prefer if you employed nondestructive testing methods

but its a valid point - its right at the very limit of what I can pick up on my own


I wanna see what that Rekluse is all about :D

its my unfair advantage - gives the illusion of competence where non really exists

[NordieBoy]

its my unfair advantage - gives the illusion of competence where non really exists

And you're adding Intiminators into the equation?

You'll be going right past competence and into the illusion of ability.

All this will now show up the rear shock for what it really is though...
As I am finding...

[Woodman]

And you're adding Intiminators into the equation?

You'll be going right past competence and into the illusion of ability.

All this will now show up the rear shock for what it really is though...
As I am finding...

I think quite possibly that farkling is addictive, and infinite.

[warewolf]

I would prefer if you employed nondestructive testing methodsMe too!


but its a valid point - its right at the very limit of what I can pick up on my ownMe too! Maybe even beyond it. Helping padmei (or should I say gonzo) get up out of the mud I led him in to was quite an effort. I would probably have a hernia lifting it by myself in snotty conditions where there's insufficient surface friction to push against.

[warewolf]

Orright, here's a chart showing the road speed for 1st & 5th gears, for the bikes as standard (solid line) and as tested (dashed). The colour/style is the same for 1st & 5th, I'm sure you can work out which is which.

<table border="1"><tbody><tr><td style="vertical-align: top;">
</td><td style="vertical-align: top;">Sprockets
</td><td style="vertical-align: top;">Tyre
</td></tr><tr><td>640 Adv Std</td><td>16:42</td><td>140/80-18</td></tr><tr><td>640 Adv Test</td><td>16:44</td><td>130/80-18</td></tr><tr><td>DR650 Std</td><td>15:41</td><td>120/90-17</td></tr><tr><td>DR650 Test</td><td>14:41</td><td>130/80-17</td></tr></tbody></table>

http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/warewolf885/mc/tech/roadSpeeds.jpg

So the 640 is actually lower geared, but the extra 1000rpm headroom gives it longer legs... eventually. The 640 is pulling an extra 200rpm at 100km/h.

[cooneyr]

I think quite possibly that farkling is addictive, and infinite.

Next you lot will start a group - "Hi my name is Nordie and I'm a serial farkler" :Punk:

[NordieBoy]

Next you lot will start a group - "Hi my name is Nordie and I'm a serial farkler" :Punk:

And you have not bought anything for the KTM yet?


And even if it's "only necessary stuff" it still counts as farkles...

[NordieBoy]

Trying to decide wether or not to upgrade(?) my Acewell 3100 speedo to a Trailtech Vapor.

Both have a bargraph rev counter.
The Vapor shows more info on one screen though (temp, revs, speed, dist, time vs revs, speed, (time or revs or dist...)

The 3100 has individually resetable twin trip meters which I like (one for fuel, one for the trip) but I can use the GPS for the trip distance.

Hmmm. I'll have to see if the Vapor trip dist can be reset without resetting all the trip info.

The main things I like about the Vapor are the thermometers and the amount of info on screen at once.

I liked the Trailech Panoram I ran for years on the Nordie...

Decisions decisions...

[warewolf]

Next you lot will start a group - "Hi my name is Nordie and I'm a serial farkler" :Punk:It's taken you 1368 posts to work that out?? :stupid:

You must be so rapt with that bike your brain's turned to goo... :bleh:

[NordieBoy]

Oh, I also object to the "serial farkler" moniker.

That implies I can only do one farkle at a time :D

[marks]

Next you lot will start a group - "Hi my name is Nordie and I'm a serial farkler" :Punk:

serial farkling is a bit like being a female nymphomaniac - it might not be normal condition but all the guys you know are glad you've got the problem :yes:

[warewolf]

I was looking the numbers/formula/chart again last night. My numbers included the primary ratio, but that isn't necessary when we are looking at the relationship of the gears to one another, right? (The results are quite different.) The primary doesn't change so affects all the gears the same, amplifying the differences if you like. Certainly the primary affects the overall result (road speed) but not the differences between the gears.

Anyone agree? If so I will re-do the chart. You might be surprised at the result.

[NordieBoy]

Yep. Only the gaps in-between gears are important.

[topo]

WW looking at your fancy 5th gear rev/speed chart has raised a question about my 640e.
I did a "high speed" run on the weekend (just to see what she'd do:innocent:) and found that at 147km/hr it was pulling about 7000rpm (dash light stardted flashing at me) in top gear with standard 16/42 sprockets. this was its MAX speed with my fairing on which i was a little disapointed about, have you ever "wound-out" your adv or no what its actual top speed is?

Clearly even without the big fairing and chin on the tank i dont think mine will make it anywhere near the theoretical geared max of 200km/hr:argue::violin:.

[NordieBoy]

Something sounds wrong then.
I pulled 140kph on CrazyFrog's DRZ on gravel (Northbank Road out Springs way on the Dusty).

Almost sounds like you were in 4th gear?

The DR in 4th on the dyno pulls about 140kph at the limiter...

[topo]

Kinda what i was thinking, might have to do a run beside JATZ's trumpy to check the speedo above 100km'hr.

I've checked mine and found it to be accurate at 100km/hr according to the speed thingy on the Appleby straight out of richmond, maybe it cant handle the combination of bumps on gravel and high speed? (might have a look on thurs night:drinknsin).

[cooneyr]

And you have not bought anything for the KTM yet?


And even if it's "only necessary stuff" it still counts as farkles...

Umm - new Bacho SL25 tool kit and replaced the torx bits with hex (missing a few bits of the stock kit though I have the spark plug tool thank God), new front tyre, getting a tail plate laser cut from alloy (my design in autocad - unbeliveably cheaper than importing), crash bars have been ordered, 16 tooth CS to be picked up at lunchtime, larger side stand foot to be welded on later this week, spare tubes in the front side pannels (already done). Long term plans for dash GPS mount and other things I can't remember right now. All absolutly necessary and not farkels - well that's what wifey is being told anyway :bleh:

Also found that putting in the H3 high beam bulb the right way up and in the correct position makes a huge difference to high beam - damn silly PO.


It's taken you 1368 posts to work that out?? :stupid:

I'm just waiting for him to acutally say the words - we all know he is adicted. Good thing he hasn't got a KTM yet cause then he could start buying things like orange front brake master cylinder covers or other such "necessities".


Oh, I also object to the "serial farkler" moniker.

That implies I can only do one farkle at a time :D

Still not quite there Nordie, go on you can do it - "Hi my name is Nordie and I'm a parallel farkler" Does that make you a nerd too - knowing the difference between serial and parallel. Doh guess that also applies to me :laugh:

Cheers R

[warewolf]

I did a "high speed" run on the weekend (just to see what she'd do:innocent:) and found that at 147km/hr it was pulling about 7000rpm (dash light stardted flashing at me) in top gear with standard 16/42 sprockets. this was its MAX speed with my fairing on which i was a little disapointed about, have you ever "wound-out" your adv or no what its actual top speed is?Ummm, if any :Police: are reading this, it's baseless bragging, fairy stories :bs: or closed roads. <_<

On the tar I've seen 185 on the speedo and it was still climbing, near 8000rpm but was past the peak. Never topped it out. What's that saying about the rider being the limiting factor? :ride: No doubt there is some error there, but at lower speeds its within 5% of the roadside radars. Seeing mid-170s on the tar is no problem at all, it pulls hard up to that.

Pete and I did a wee comparo on the gravel coming back from the Brass a while ago. The F650 ran out of puff around 155? (he stopped accelerating and then I wound the throttle on) and the 640 was still accelerating at 170, slowly because it had an MT90 A/T spinning up in the gravel.

The E might have a lower primary ratio - possible given the slightly different target - but not according to a quick google.

What size rear tyre are you using?

[Woodman]

Kinda what i was thinking, might have to do a run beside JATZ's trumpy to check the speedo above 100km'hr.

I've checked mine and found it to be accurate at 100km/hr according to the speed thingy on the Appleby straight out of richmond, maybe it cant handle the combination of bumps on gravel and high speed? (might have a look on thurs night:drinknsin).

How is your clutch??

[Woodman]

Me too!

Me too! Maybe even beyond it. Helping padmei (or should I say gonzo) get up out of the mud I led him in to was quite an effort. I would probably have a hernia lifting it by myself in snotty conditions where there's insufficient surface friction to push against.

Surely Gonzo is not that much heavier than a 640a.

About 190kgs ish with half a tank.

[warewolf]

Shit yes, 640A is <165kg with 10L fuel on board. (and mine's 2kg or so lighter without the 2nd front disc & calliper etc)

So in comparison, picking up Gonzo is like picking up the 640A while you are also carrying a 25kg bag of cement.

[Woodman]

Shit yes, 640A is <165kg with 10L fuel on board.

Yea but on a klr the weight is held much higher to compensate.

[NordieBoy]

Hi, My name is Nordie and I'm a parallel parker.

No wait...

[cooneyr]

Ummm, if any :Police: are reading this, it's baseless bragging, fairy stories :bs: or closed roads. <_<

I've seen 185 on the speedo and it was still climbing

You've just reminded me to double check the speed rating of the tires I have on Griffon. Think they are only rated to 160 so must behave or I might bite the dirt big time. Anybody ever poped a tyre from exceeding it's speed rating?

Cheers R

[warewolf]

No, but the only carcass failure (small splits inside and out) I've had was the BF Goodrich Crossengo that is only M/130 rated. It only went on the 640A after doing a 6 hour cross country and various other rides, so it wasn't fresh.

[Woodman]

Hi, My name is Nordie and I'm a parallel parker.

No wait...

Why are you standing next to a pen??

[marks]

Why are you standing next to a pen??

that is beyond lame

[JATZ]

Why are you standing next to a pen??

GaaaaH :thud:


Kinda what i was thinking, might have to do a run beside JATZ's trumpy to check the speedo above 100km'hr.

!00 or 200 doesn't bother me :blip: (on a closed road of course)

Or I could give you the G.P.S. to check it, probly a better idea, who knows how accurate the Trumpy's speedo is

[marks]

picking up Gonzo is like picking up the 640A while you are also carrying a 25kg bag of cement.

that is so damn depressing when you put it like that

might sound better if it was a 25kg bag of feathers......

[warewolf]

who knows how accurate the Trumpy's speedo isThey used to be known to be much more accurate than a typical bike (like 1-2% out rather than 5-10%) but later bikes have the higher discrepancy. Would be interesting to see what the Trophy's is like these days. I know the speedo and tacho exactly matched any gearing chart I calculated, so at least there is a consistent error there!

That's another bike I've never topped out. I've seen 235km/h before buttoning off on the standard 98ps/72kW bike, it was only just creeping up at that speed but seemed okayish up to about 230. Goodness knows what the improved 149ps/110kW version will do. I had it short geared so 6th only did 225 not 240, but got there a bit quicker; those new sprockets are geared to 250.

[JATZ]

They used to be known to be much more accurate than a typical bike (like 1-2% out rather than 5-10%) but later bikes have the higher discrepancy. Would be interesting to see what the Trophy's is like these days. I know the speedo and tacho exactly matched any gearing chart I calculated, so at least there is a consistent error there!

That's another bike I've never topped out. I've seen 235km/h before buttoning off on the standard 98ps/72kW bike, it was only just creeping up at that speed but seemed okayish up to about 230. Goodness knows what the improved 149ps/110kW version will do. I had it short geared so 6th only did 225 not 240, but got there a bit quicker; those new sprockets are geared to 250.

It certainly gets up and goes still, 180 between the one lane bridges on edwards rd was easy, before mrs Jatz started to hit me :gob:

not that I make a habit of that sort of thing :innocent:

[warewolf]

Right, here's another take on the gearbox ratios. The previous charts included the primary ratio, which doesn't alter the gaps between the gears - but does affect the overall ratio.

The first chart shows the gearbox ratios only. The second shows them normalised to first gear. The dashed line is Fran's suggested mods.

http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/warewolf885/mc/tech/gearboxRatioComparison.jpg

http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/warewolf885/mc/tech/gearboxRatioComparison1st.jpg
Interesting, eh? Much closer than previously thought. Dunno what to make of that!!

[marks]

not that I make a habit of that sort of thing :innocent:

I'm glad you weren't on that when we were coming back over the takaka hill road - there is a limit to how hard a poor klr can be pushed

[warewolf]

It certainly gets up and goes still, 180 between the one lane bridges on edwards rd was easy, before mrs Jatz started to hit me :gob:

not that I make a habit of that sort of thing :innocent:Me neither. Had to drop Meri off at the airport in AKL early one morning. Filtered to the front of the line leading on to the motorway so I could have an uninterrupted run... hit 200 before the 100 sign despite not being able to use full throttle because her tramping pack was pulling the front too far off the ground :innocent:

She did say she needed a bit of a wake-up... she was pretty wide-eyed and buzzing after that. :D

[clint640]

On the tar I've seen 185 on the speedo and it was still climbing, ?

Jeez, that's not bad, best I've seen (on a closed private road of course) was 177, & that was on a slight downhill, on the flat about 165. 16:40 gearing. Mine over reads by ~ 6km/h at 100.

More importantly, I have confirmed (on the same closed private road) that the 640 is faster in a straight line than a DR650 or an F650 Dakar. <_<

Clint

[Oscar]

Jeez, that's not bad, best I've seen (on a closed private road of course) was 177, & that was on a slight downhill, on the flat about 165. 16:40 gearing. Mine over reads by ~ 6km/h at 100.

More importantly, I have confirmed (on the same closed private road) that the 640 is faster in a straight line than a DR650 or an F650 Dakar. <_<

Clint

I saw about 175 on my 640e on standard gearing.

I'm actually missing the ole 640, and Boyds have a newish 625SXC - what do you know about them?

[warewolf]

Jeez, that's not bad, best I've seen (on a closed private road of course) was 177, & that was on a slight downhill, on the flat about 165.Quite possibly the fairing and low front guard more than make up for the extra 10kg the A carries. Wind drag is the biggest issue at high speed. I'm told the mirrors alone can be worth 10-15km/h in the mid-200s.

[Oscar]

Quite possibly the fairing and low front guard more than make up for the extra 10kg the A carries. Wind drag is the biggest issue at high speed. I'm told the mirrors alone can be worth 10-15km/h in the mid-200s.

When the Honda Blackbird and the Suzuki Hiyabusa came out, I remember reading an article by Kevin Cameron that said at the the top speed of those bikes (180ish mph), every extra mile per hour required another 8hp.

[XF650]

No, but the only carcass failure (small splits inside and out) I've had was the BF Goodrich Crossengo that is only M/130 rated. It only went on the 640A after doing a 6 hour cross country and various other rides, so it wasn't fresh.

Golly, I had better check my Crossengo's - the DT230 has a very respectable top speed.

[warewolf]

When the Honda Blackbird and the Suzuki Hiyabusa came out, I remember reading an article by Kevin Cameron that said at the the top speed of those bikes (180ish mph), every extra mile per hour required another 8hp.Wow... I knew it was huge up in that region but never seen a number before. Even with +50hp (and %) the Trophy has it would probably only take the top speed up another 15-20km/h.

I read an article about aerodynamics and bike design; the designer was asked if he could make any dramatic improvements to reduce drag, the reply was, "yep, sure, if we got rid of the rider".

[clint640]

I saw about 175 on my 640e on standard gearing.

I'm actually missing the ole 640, and Boyds have a newish 625SXC - what do you know about them?

You've had a ride on one haven't ya? They iz good. The flatslide carb makes em do better wheelies. Your chances of getting the 640 back are pretty slim given how much fun the new owner is having on it.


Quite possibly the fairing and low front guard more than make up for the extra 10kg the A carries. .

Yep, that'd be it, I forgot about the low guard.

At risk of being on topic talking about DR parts, I just ordered a bunch 'o bits for my worn BST40 carb from KTM, they're cheaper ex Austria from KTM than they are ex Japan from either Suzuki, or Bikesports who claim to be a Mikuni agent. KTM sell the slide guide too which Suzuki dont.

Clint

[Oscar]

You've had a ride on one haven't ya? They iz good. The flatslide carb makes em do better wheelies. Your chances of getting the 640 back are pretty slim given how much fun the new owner is having on it.




I'm glad he's liking it.
Is he coming on the MMMMM ride?
I've got a spare key or him.

I gonna try and get a ride on the SXC tomorrow.

[Padmei]

Hey Nordie are you getting a KTM? Don't you like your DR anymore?

[NordieBoy]

No KTM yet.
But I've scratched the 640A off the "possible upgrade" list.

I'm doing a "pure unnecessary farkle" mod to the DR at the moment.

A roller bearing roller bottom chain guide :D

It'll be heavier, time consuming to make and of dubious value.

Anyone else want one? :Punk:

[marks]

hey oh wise one (I can grovel when I want something...)

what brand/weight of fork oil did you use with your intiminators?

[NordieBoy]

hey oh wise one (I can grovel when I want something...)

what brand/weight of fork oil did you use with your intiminators?

5w (stock is 10w). Probably Belray or Spectro.

[clint640]

I'm glad he's liking it.
Is he coming on the MMMMM ride?
I've got a spare key or him.
.

Yep he's planning to as long as no work/kid emergencies arise.

Cheers
Clint

[Oscar]

Just traded the DRZ on this...

[Oscar]

Yep he's planning to as long as no work/kid emergencies arise.

Cheers
Clint

I'm trying to talk Stretch into coming.
He's got issues with his Cagiva, so he can ride me new SXC.

[marks]

Just traded the DRZ on this...

is this the long lost DRZ you previously owned and were fortunate to track down and buy back recently??

what year/mileage is the 625
I'm presuming its a 'harder edged' 640e ?

nice looking bike :yes:

[Oscar]

is this the long lost DRZ you previously owned and were fortunate to track down and buy back recently??

what year/mileage is the 625
I'm presuming its a 'harder edged' 640e ?

nice looking bike :yes:

Er...let's not go into the wisdom of acquiring the DRZ...:Oops:


It is "harder edged" - i.e. more powerful, taller and quicker steering.
It's on '06 done 6k.

[clint640]

Just traded the DRZ on this...

Nice! One of the last of the old breed.

Clint

[Padmei]

Er...let's not go into the wisdom of acquiring the DRZ...:Oops:


It is "harder edged" - i.e. more powerful, taller and quicker steering.
It's on '06 done 6k.

Do you race Oscar? If so this is your race bike? Or a second bike to putter around with? Or you just couldn't go past it in the shop:scooter:

[NordieBoy]

Do you race Oscar? If so this is your race bike? Or a second bike to putter around with? Or you just couldn't go past it in the shop:scooter:

What's the betting the answer is "yes" :D

[Oscar]

Do you race Oscar? If so this is your race bike? Or a second bike to putter around with? Or you just couldn't go past it in the shop:scooter:

Lotsa gravel roads still to be explored hereabouts...

[NordieBoy]

Got it done.
Turned up some spacers but unfortunatly the chain dosn't run in the middle of the guide so I'll space the whole lower guide over 3-4mm.

http://www.photostorage.nelson.geek.nz/sports/motorsport/mybikes/DR650/20090705%20Roller%20bearing%20lower%20chain%20guid e/slides/20090705-133344.jpg

http://www.photostorage.nelson.geek.nz/sports/motorsport/mybikes/DR650/20090705%20Roller%20bearing%20lower%20chain%20guid e/slides/20090705-134614.jpg

http://www.photostorage.nelson.geek.nz/sports/motorsport/mybikes/DR650/20090705%20Roller%20bearing%20lower%20chain%20guid e/slides/20090705-134628.jpg

http://www.photostorage.nelson.geek.nz/sports/motorsport/mybikes/DR650/20090705%20Roller%20bearing%20lower%20chain%20guid e/slides/20090705-134733.jpg

[cooneyr]

:Offtopic: (slightly) Dont have a metal lathe but my old man is into wood turning in a big way. He had heard that you can turn alloy on a wood lathe so we gave it ago in the weekend for the tail plate spacers. Worked a treat with no damage to steel tools or anything.

Bets are on for how long the rollers will last with all the crap that they will accumulate ;)

Cheers R

[NordieBoy]

Ahhh...
But being rollers the crap will be more likely to fling off...
There's quite a buildup of gunge there from the scottoiler that should no longer happen.

My little metalwork lathe can also be used for wood :D

[Padmei]

Well done Nordie. Tinkering sometimes is more fun than riding -well only on these cold days & nites.

[NordieBoy]

Well done Nordie. Tinkering sometimes is more fun than riding -well only on these cold days & nites.

You got that right :cold:



Oh I also went up the Maungatapu this afternoon. The track is clear to the summit now :woohoo::scooter:
How it can be that cold at the summit without snow is beyond me.

Anyone want to go for a night ride?

[Underground]

You got that right :cold:



Oh I also went up the Maungatapu this afternoon. The track is clear to the summit now :woohoo::scooter:
How it can be that cold at the summit without snow is beyond me.

good news , now I can ride into town

[NordieBoy]

good news , now I can ride into town

It's a bugger when the only road to town is blocked like that :angry2:

[NordieBoy]

Finally got a hairline crack up near the header flange.
Surprised it's taken this long really.

[twotyred]

whats the plan,weld or replace?

[Padmei]

On the header pipe or cylinder? they're common?

[NordieBoy]

On the header pipe...

I cleaned this weld...
http://www.photostorage.nelson.geek.nz/sports/motorsport/mybikes/DR650/20070427%20Header%20Weld%20Grind/slides/20070427-164734.jpg

Up like this...
http://www.photostorage.nelson.geek.nz/sports/motorsport/mybikes/DR650/20070427%20Header%20Weld%20Grind/slides/20070507-173208.jpg

And there's a hairline crack in about where the middle of the weld was.
The stock exhaust system is mounted up with...
2 bolts at the header.
1 bolt where the header joins the mid-pipe above the footpeg.
1 bolt just above/back of the rear footpeg.
1 bolt in the middle of the muffler.

Mine however is mounted up with...
2 bolts at the header.
1 bolt in the middle of the muffler.
The other 2 bolts were mounting on to 0.7mm stainless and ripping it apart so I wasn't using them :D

Just excessive movement over rock type bumps over the last 5-10,000km.

I've got some ideas as to how to mount them up to more stable/thicker bits of the system though.

I'm using my spare header for the time being...

[CrazyFrog]

Fran, don't ya just love having a spare "parts bike" in the garage!

Any of you DR650 boys want sprockets, here's some cheapies on TM...
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Parts-for-sale/Chains-sprockets/auction-229059539.htm

[NordieBoy]

Working through the Dual Sport Suspension book...

Today:
Rear static sag set to 50mm, race sag to 90mm.

Stacked(ish) most of half a cord of split pine that arrived today to clear the driveway so I could get out to test the bike...

[NordieBoy]

Finally got the fork spacer out so I could try the Eibach (.47 kg/mm) springs with the Intiminators.

I was running 15mm of preload with the stock (.40) springs and am trying 10mm with the stronger ones.

Going by Neduro's Suspension book it should make the front more supple but I wonder what the Intiminators will bring to the party.

LSD or seditives?

[Monstaman]

Fran, don't ya just love having a spare "parts bike" in the garage!

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Parts-for-sale/Chains-sprockets/auction-229059539.htm

Heya Fran, are you the same Fran on TM with the sprockets .. guessing you are :yes:?

Do you want the 43 T sprocket?, mine has 45T and I wonna go down to the 43.

I am looking to run 15/43 gearing, I have at present 14/45 which is to low geared for the road, good for the trails though, looking to be in between the factory 15/41 and my current stuff.

Anyway, lemme know, if you wonna do a deal or part deal etc however if you want that gearing and those sprockets I won't bid against you, cheers Andi.

[junkmanjoe]

i bidded against nordy man....and i won...:bleh:

[NordieBoy]

i bidded against nordy man....and i won...:bleh:

You mean you lost :bleh:

You added weight to your bike and paid good money :D

[NordieBoy]

Heya Fran, are you the same Fran on TM with the sprockets .. guessing you are :yes:?

Do you want the 43 T sprocket?, mine has 45T and I wonna go down to the 43.

I am looking to run 15/43 gearing, I have at present 14/45 which is to low geared for the road, good for the trails though, looking to be in between the factory 15/41 and my current stuff.

43 is my favorite sprocket :D

I normally run 14/43 for everything.

15/43 is a fraction higher geared than 14/41.

Throw a 14 on the front with the stock 41 for dirt and the 15 for longer road stuff.

Are you using a 520 or 525 chain?

[Monstaman]

43 is my favorite sprocket :D

Are you using a 520 or 525 chain?

525 chain, 14/45 at the mo is how it came, just wonna bit more relaxed for the road, I can do 14/41 without buyin a thing and yeap it is slightly lower that 15/43, think I will do that today as well.

I now have a 45T sprocket for sale :niceone:

[NordieBoy]

I now have a 45T sprocket for sale :niceone:

The 45 is a 520?

[NordieBoy]

Right...
Stock front spring is 0.40kg/mm
Stock rear is 6.7kg/mm


Front sag - Eibach 0.48kg/mm:
45mm static (17%)
65mm race (25%)

Rear sag - Eibach 7.6kg/mm:
40mm static (15%)
80mm race (30%)

Ride time...

[Eddieb]

Working through the Dual Sport Suspension book...

Today:
Rear static sag set to 50mm, race sag to 90mm.

Stacked(ish) most of half a cord of split pine that arrived today to clear the driveway so I could get out to test the bike...

Is it worth the money?

I got a lot out of the dvd's, especially the 1st one. Was thinking of getting this as the Ohlins on the rear has more adjustments than I know what to do with, but I know it's not right.

[Monstaman]

The 45 is a 520?

I think so, only 6mm compare to the 525 which is 6.7 mm, nothing written on teh 45 or at least I can't see it.

[NordieBoy]

Right.

Looking at the numbers above it seems like my rear spring is slightly too hard but perfect with a bit more load/weight strapped to the back of the bike. The front is a bit soft but the Intiminators help in that regard. I know I should have measured the sag settings of the Intiminators + stock springs before I pulled them out...

Yesterdays ride showed the front to go through potholes at speed very nicely but the rear felt a bit high. Making the bike a bit skittish but there was a lot of slippery bits and I'm running E-07's...

I'll have a go through the Maungatapu as it is then drop the rear 20mm and see if it feels better/worse and work from there.

I may also try 5mm less preload in the front which would bring it closer to 30% race sag.

God I hate fiddling with this thing :clap:

[Monstaman]

The 45 is a 520?

Heya Fran .. well bugger me the sprocket is 48 T!!

Would like to go to 15/43 to keep the bigger front sprocket as it is not as much torture on the chain and the chain lasts substantially longer overall going odd # to odd # rather than even # even #.

[warewolf]

Let me know when you are going...

The rear sag for my 640A:
was static 51mm 17%, race 98mm 33% - when you road it
now static 33mm 11%, race 87mm 29%

WP suggest static 17mm 6% and rider 90-100mm 30-33%.

It'll probably be much better for you, but that's only a 7.0 spring so likely a little light. Feels much better to me, but haven't worked it hard yet. The snowy trip wasn't a good test.

[NordieBoy]

I just measured up and 5mm less preload in the front would mean 0mm preload :D

The back of mine felt better at 33% race sag but bottomed too easily.

Sounds like you need a bit heavier spring to get to those recommended specs.

I'm going to pull the shock from the spare bike and fill it with proper 10W shock oil and get it re-gassed.

It's only done 28,000km worth of suspension actuations as opposed to my current one at over 60,000km worth.

I'll see what the difference is and then when the dollar strengthens get a gold valve and head seal kit from ProCycle.

[NordieBoy]

Heya Fran .. well bugger me the sprocket is 48 T!!

Would like to go to 15/43 to keep the bigger front sprocket as it is not as much torture on the chain and the chain lasts substantially longer overall going odd # to odd # rather than even # even #.

Go for it on the auction.
I've just ordered a 14/15 in 520 and a 520 chain today.
520 conversion time.

Should be a bit cheaper for a 520 chain/sprocket combo and just need to see how long they last.

[warewolf]

I would be very interested to re-test your bike having changed the fork springs from .40 to .47s; that's up 17.5%. To put that in perspective, the .46 in the 640A is way too soft but RaceTech suggest only .473, all of 2.8% increase... I will go .48s unless the suspension tuner says otherwise. The damping seemed more problematic than your spring rate - and given the good performance of the incheatimators, that says something about how the springs felt!!


Sounds like you need a bit heavier spring to get to those recommended specs.Nuh uh. Lighter. At WP's recommended static sag of 17mm 6%, race sag is only 69mm 23%. So I'm not heavy enough for the spring. It's probably ideal for a fully-laden trip though.

And we won't mention the front... way too light, even without a full tank.

[NordieBoy]

:doh: That's right. Lighter spring - wider gap in the static to race.

Damn...
Just did some calculations.
The stock 0.40kg/mm spring would actually be able to get me pretty close to 20% static & 30% race sag.
The main problem with it is that it's a progressive and dives severely under braking.
I don't want progressive with the Intiminators.

If I could get a straight wound 0.4 it would probably be ideal.
EDIT: Damn. The KDX200 uses a 43mm fork too and my bro want's to try my .47's depending on overall spring length.

You need to test it now.

What % do WP recommend for the front of the 640A?

Dual Sport Suspension recommends 8-12% static and 20-30% race front and rear.

I think once my shock is working properly(ish) and not bottoming out so easily it'll make the front feel different too.

[JATZ]

I got some 750 fork springs here if you want to give them a shot, can measure them tomorrow

[warewolf]

The main problem with it is that it's a progressiveSay no more. What's the start and end rate?


EDIT: Damn. The KDX200 uses a 43mm fork too and my bro want's to try my .47's depending on overall spring length.

You need to test it now.wed-thu-fri mornings.


What % do WP recommend for the front of the 640A?25-40mm static out of 275 total = 9-15%. Race sag not mentioned. I've got 43mm static from 11.5mm preload; race sag 61mm 22%. Std preload is 4mm, don't have a sag reading but it has to be at least 50mm/20% just factoring in the reduced spacer length... with only half a tank of fuel. As I crank up the preload to get the desired static sag, I'm losing all the race sag = spring too weak.


Dual Sport Suspension recommends 8-12% static and 20-30% race front and rear.I'm at those numbers on the rear. It is a normal linkage non-PDS shock so should follow the normal rules. But maybe like Ohlins they have different requirements due to internal features? They similarly don't recommend anywhere near as much static sag.

[Monstaman]

If I could get a straight wound 0.4 it would probably be ideal.


Fran there is a crowd in Christchurch that makes springs, I got a set of linear rate 5 mm wire spring made for my Hypermotard and they are brilliant, they were only $25.00 for a pair.

The factory springs were progressive wound and were set for a 100 kg rider plus gear which is 30 kg more than me.

[cooneyr]

Fran there is a crowd in Christchurch that makes springs, I got a set of linear rate 5 mm wire spring made for my Hypermotard and they are brilliant, they were only $25.00 for a pair.

The factory springs were progressive wound and were set for a 100 kg rider plus gear which is 30 kg more than me.

Was it Bellamy and East (http://www.springs.co.nz/)?

Cheers R

[Monstaman]

Was it Bellamy and East (http://www.springs.co.nz/)?

Cheers R

No, this is them

CBC Resleeve and Spring Specialists
53 Brisbane Street
P O Box 7044
Sydenham
Chch

Ph(03) 377 1373
Fax(03) 377 1364

[cooneyr]

No, this is them

CBC Resleeve and Spring Specialists
53 Brisbane Street
P O Box 7044
Sydenham
Chch

Ph(03) 377 1373
Fax(03) 377 1364

Good cause the B&E coil springs we got for a landcruiser a few years ago were orible.

Cheers R

[Monstaman]

Good cause the B&E coil springs we got for a landcruiser a few years ago were orible.

Cheers R

Same, I actually broke a front coil in half at Christmas in Reefton on my Prado kinda truck, that was a B&E one as well.

CBC did a beautiful job for the bike springs :Punk:.

[NordieBoy]

Heya Fran .. well bugger me the sprocket is 48 T!!

Would like to go to 15/43 to keep the bigger front sprocket as it is not as much torture on the chain and the chain lasts substantially longer overall going odd # to odd # rather than even # even #.

If you don't want the 14t front on the auction, I'd take it off your hands.

[Monstaman]

If you don't want the 14t front on the auction, I'd take it off your hands.

No worries, will look after you too, $2.00 sprocket $85.00 shipping :laugh:

See if I get off the start line first, I really only want the 43T so the 41T is up for grabs too, can do a deal for any KB bros who wonna do something to benefit all.

[NordieBoy]

Just got my 520 15t front sprocket, 22mm circlips, DID 520VX 120 link chain and a spare master link yesterday.

All ready to chop 10 links off for spares.

It'll be interesting to see how long it lasts as it a hell of a lot cheaper than the stock 525VM2 chain.

[Monstaman]

Well I won the sprockets so I am going to 15/43 gearing for the longer wear with a bit of luck as the chain will be more relaxed on the 15T front, I have an interesting read on ratios and chain wear if anyone is interested or bored.

So I now have for sale

14T front 520
41T rear 525
48T rear 520

Nordie, you want the 14T?, I have your name on it if you want it.

[NordieBoy]

Well I won the sprockets so I am going to 15/43 gearing for the longer wear with a bit of luck as the chain will be more relaxed on the 15T front, I have an interesting read on ratios and chain wear if anyone is interested or bored.

So I now have for sale

14T front 520
41T rear 525
48T rear 520

Nordie, you want the 14T?, I have your name on it if you want it.

Def. want the 14t.
How worn is the 48 rear?

[NordieBoy]

I have an interesting read on ratios and chain wear if anyone is interested or bored.

I'm interested and bored :D

[Monstaman]

I'm interested and bored :D

K, will post it on separate thread.... grab a crate and some pies :done:

What is a fair price for the sprocket?

[NordieBoy]

Just gave the 520 conversion a go today.

A 15t front from a <96 DR650.
A 110 link DID 520 VX chain.
A 44t rear from an RGV 250.
2 x 22mm circlips.

I just checked the numbers on my previous 2 RK 525 XSO chains.
#1 8,500km - got half my money back.
#2 20,100km.

Let's see how long this combo will last...

[NordieBoy]

Right...
This is not built for anyone remotely tallish.

Only one way to fix that...

Works like a bought one now and is adjustable.

[NordieBoy]

Refilled the spare low mileage (35,000km) shock with 10W Belray shock oil and got it into the bike shop today to be gassed up and the nitrogen cylinder had 50psi left in it...

I needed 150psi.

I think this time I've been more diligent with getting the air out of the main shock body and from around the nitrogen bladder.

Hopefully it'll give me a bit more bottoming resistance than currently.....

[NordieBoy]

Put the shock in today and it does make a difference.
Not sure if the old one had lost gas or what but this one feels smoother and has much better bottoming resistance.

Tomorrow will be the test though.

1,095hrs and 58,950km on the old shock since I got my new speedo.

This shock has only had about 38,000km on it.

[NordieBoy]

I just had a look at the spare bike and the upper chain roller has been ripped out of the frame :D

[Transalper]

My gearbox is now fixed.
The DR650 lives again.
Final bill $3432.
Is good to be back on my own bike.

[NordieBoy]

Good on'ya.
It's a good feeling being back on your own bike.

[junkmanjoe]

is it best to remove that top roller nordie...:blink:

[NordieBoy]

A few here have had it removed for them by the chain.
I removed mine years ago and put a small button headed bolt in there.

Best is loctiting in a set-screw.

The roller is too low and cops the full force of the chain under load when the suspension is also loaded up.

34hp trying to keep the chain straight and 1 little roller trying to keep it bent.

[NordieBoy]

NordieBoy (NZ) 2001 60,000km
Transalper (NZ) 2001 55,000km
Rosscoact (AU) 2004 13,000km
Mardy (US?) 1997 53,000km
TH (NZ) 1999 40,000km
RubberCow80 (AU) 2001 25,000km (2nd gear?)
Philth (AU) 3 bikes <20,000km (2nd gear?)
BikeRooter (AU) 2006 10,200km
Madsdad (US) 2005 16,000km
briangv99 (AU) 2006 21,000km
bluebye (US) 2004 37,000km

[junkmanjoe]

whats happened nordie
has number 3 given up on ya

[NordieBoy]

Nah. Just added bluebye to the list...

13 now.

[Monstaman]

Is there any particular model years that do it? and what actually happens?

Young toddy has about 104000 miles on his one with missing a beat.

[NordieBoy]

Looks like the problem years are 98-2007.
3rd gear shatters and goes for a walk inside the engine.

My theory is they overdid the hardening to fix the whiney 3rd problem on the 97/98 and made the gear too brittle.

It's in use in 3rd/4th/5th.

The Aussies seem to have problems sooner (<30000km) than the rest of the world (>40000km).

They changed the part number for 3rd in 98 and again in 2008.

[cooneyr]

Looks like the problem years are 98-2007.
3rd gear shatters and goes for a walk inside the engine.

My theory is they overdid the hardening to fix the whiney 3rd problem on the 97/98 and made the gear too brittle.

It's in use in 3rd/4th/5th.

The Aussies seem to have problems sooner (<30000km) than the rest of the world (>40000km).

They changed the part number for 3rd in 98 and again in 2008.

I'm pretty confident the whiny 3rd was not a result of the lack of hardening but poorly shaped gears. Still there was obviously a change in the gear of some description and that change is likely to be the issue.

Cheers R

[junkmanjoe]

i better sell mine before 40k then...:soon:

[Eddieb]

The Aussies seem to have problems sooner (<30000km) than the rest of the world (>40000km).

Higher operating temperature due to climate causing heat fatigue sooner?

[Monstaman]

Higher operating temperature due to climate causing heat fatigue sooner?

Nah .. thar just fat bastids :buggerd: :chase:

[pete376403]

Dutchman49
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=43626&page=8

[NordieBoy]

NordieBoy (NZ) 2001 60,000km
Transalper (NZ) 2001 55,000km
Rosscoact (AU) 2004 13,000km
Mardy (US?) 1997 53,000km
TH (NZ) 1999 40,000km
RubberCow80 (AU) 2001 25,000km
Philth (AU) 3 bikes <20,000km
BikeRooter (AU) 2006 10,200km
Madsdad (US) 2005 16,000km
briangv99 (AU) 2006 21,000km
bluebye (US) 2004 37,000km
dutchman49 (NZ) 2006 15,000km (honorary mention)

[NordieBoy]

I really like them...

Lookie what it caught...

It's been floating around in there for at least the 6 months I've had this engine. The day we installed it we checked the NSU screws and one was missing and we couldn't find it with a telescoping magnet thingy...

No other metallic particulates at all...

[talbertnz]

Lookie what it caught...



I had the same thing when my NLS went walk about found an extra screw with the magprobe probably from an earlier fix years before I bought it...

:oi-grr:

(mine was called Neutral Light Switch NLS :banana: )

[NordieBoy]

Mine is called the Neutral Sender Unit...

Yours must be foreign :D

[andy mac]

I really like them...

Lookie what it caught......

:gob: It's good you caught that screw before it caused an expensive noise! That reminds me to PM you for a magnet.

[Padmei]

Hey isn't that the screw from my front fairing? I wondered where it got to...

[NordieBoy]

I just weighed my DR seats and found...
Stock - 2.1kg
Modded Corbin - 4.5kg!

I'm looking at making a core out of 5cm thick camping mattress type foam and a 3cm layer of bonded foam over the top.

My current modded seats are pure bonded foam which is quite heavy and water absorbant...

[NordieBoy]

Also 168g of lead isn't enough to balance my nubblie rear with a cheap rimlock.
The front with a Talon rimlock balanced with 49g.

[warewolf]

Also 168g of lead isn't enough to balance my nubblie rear with a cheap rimlock.Maaaaaate this is a family site. We don't want to hear about your rear, nubblie or otherwise! :sick:

[pete376403]

Also 168g of lead isn't enough to balance my nubblie rear with a cheap rimlock.
The front with a Talon rimlock balanced with 49g.
Shouldn't you put in two rimlocks, opposite each other? Then all you'd have to balance is the tyre, not the tyre AND the rimlock.

[MXNUT]

Shouldn't you put in two rimlocks, opposite each other? Then all you'd have to balance is the tyre, not the tyre AND the rimlock.

Its what i have done, it also helps if you get a flat tyre and cant fix it ( for what ever reason ) you can ride on the tyre without it coming off the rim :stupid:

[NordieBoy]

Shouldn't you put in two rimlocks, opposite each other? Then all you'd have to balance is the tyre, not the tyre AND the rimlock.

You ever changed a tyre with 2 rimlocks?

It'd take me all week.

I'm happy with 1 rimlock and a rimlock worth of lead on the other side...

[NordieBoy]

Its what i have done, it also helps if you get a flat tyre and cant fix it ( for what ever reason ) you can ride on the tyre without it coming off the rim :stupid:

The XR has 2 rimlocks on the rear but I don't go below 18psi on the DR so even 1 is overkill.

I will be replacing the cheapie rear rimlock with a Talon sometime.

[NordieBoy]

mx_rob has just done a dyno run comparing a stock engine with one with the high-comp piston and webcam 223 cam. Both with FCR39 carb and GSXR pipe.

39 FCR w/stock engine 39.7 hp @ 6,100 rpm
39 FCR w/modded engine 46.1 hp @ 6,400 rpm
39 FCR w/stock engine 36.6 ft lb trq @ 4,750 rpm
39 FCR w/modded engine 40.4 ft lb trq @ 5,400 rpm

It's making 40hp at 5,200rpm.
The same torque at 3,500rpm at the stock engine at 4,500rpm.

This is just dropping in the high-comp piston (from 9.5:1 10.5:1 - $190us) and the cam ($197us).

[warewolf]

Compression always benefits low- and mid-range torque more than top-end hp. It's great for acceleration in the lower ranges. Rather than buy the piston, you could plane the head.

10.5 CR is still pretty conservative. The 640 runs 11.5.

The Triumph had 10.6 as OEM, we planed the head then fitted the 12:1 hi-comp pistons giving a mathematical CR of > 13.9:1. Fortunately in practice the wild cams bring that number down to a level it can run on pump gas with.

[JATZ]

The Triumph had 10.6 as OEM, we planed the head then fitted the 12:1 hi-comp pistons giving a mathematical CR of > 13.9:1. Fortunately in practice the wild cams bring that number down to a level it can run on pump gas with.

The more I find out about that Triumph, the more I like it :yes: Discovered yesterday, it''s very stable at twice the open road speed limit :Punk:

[NordieBoy]

The piston is also lighter and is a "drop in" replacement.
The kit also comes with the metal base gasket I'm missing at the moment.

When I do the base gasket I'll bolt on my worked head and there's a bit of oil bypass from cold from either valves or rings wich will be gunging up the piston a bit so replacing the piston should be easier than cleaning it...

[Woodman]

Compression always benefits low- and mid-range torque more than top-end hp. It's great for acceleration in the lower ranges. Rather than buy the piston, you could plane the head.

10.5 CR is still pretty conservative. The 640 runs 11.5.

The Triumph had 10.6 as OEM, we planed the head then fitted the 12:1 hi-comp pistons giving a mathematical CR of > 13.9:1. Fortunately in practice the wild cams bring that number down to a level it can run on pump gas with.

Must be careful when planing an ohc head as it will effect your cam timing as the chain tensioner comes into play.

[warewolf]

Must be careful when planing an ohc head as it will effect your cam timing as the chain tensioner comes into play.Yes, it's pretty marginal but slightly retards the cam timing which can beneficial to the mods anyway.

Planed with std pistons not much issue with clearance to the valves, but when they fitted the hi-comp pistons as well they were very careful to check clearances.

[merv]

Don't be lazy, two rim locks are the only way to go, front and back then no worries with wheel balance.