The DR650 thread

[RogIrwin]

I have for sale brand new never mounted....
http://adventurebikeaustralia.com.au/product/armor-plating-engine-cases/

You have PM blocked but I could be interested. How much are you asking? PM Me.

[Waihou Thumper]

You have PM blocked but I could be interested. How much are you asking? PM Me.

:facepalm: Sorry about that, I have fixed it :)

[Bass]

You know, that is the first thing that jumped out at me with your reply!
Head, pressure....There ain't any...
With a full tank there is, and yes it does sit lower, so it is a bit like pushing it up-hill.
I need a pump then, like I see on some conversions...(perhaps)



This is commonplace with the Safari tank and easily solved. Just fit an MX non return valve to the breather tube. When she quits for lack of fuel, blow the tank up and away again. Willl drain the tank completely.
Outback Oz, we got 700km from that tank as near as dammit.

[RGVforme]

This is commonplace with the Safari tank and easily solved. Just fit an MX non return valve to the breather tube. When she quits for lack of fuel, blow the tank up and away again. Willl drain the tank completely.
Outback Oz, we got 700km from that tank as near as dammit.

Bought a new one of these for a MX bike I had.Between blocking and stopping air drawing in cutting fuel flow and pressuring the tank blowing fuel out the cap seal on a hot day I soon removed it.....Never used another.

[Waihou Thumper]

This is commonplace with the Safari tank and easily solved. Just fit an MX non return valve to the breather tube. When she quits for lack of fuel, blow the tank up and away again. Willl drain the tank completely.
Outback Oz, we got 700km from that tank as near as dammit.


You mean just add air right? Blow with lips :) or some sort of hot air?
Did Jim do that for ya? :clap:

[Bass]

Bought a new one of these for a MX bike I had.Between blocking and stopping air drawing in cutting fuel flow and pressuring the tank blowing fuel out the cap seal on a hot day I soon removed it.....Never used another.

I have used several (lose them in a big OFF occasionally) and there is a good deal of variability. However, I have NEVER had one that sealed when I didn't want it to. It's usually the other way round. You must have got a really sticky one.


You mean just add air right? Blow with lips :) or some sort of hot air?
Did Jim do that for ya? :clap:


You got it; just give it a blow job. You only have to lift the fuel about 100 mm and you don't have to do much more than puff to do that. Just remember that the vent holes are on the bottom, so you have to get the whole knob in. (Ask Jim).
The non-return valves are intended to prevent fuel spills and so don't initiate a seal in the upright position. (Sometimes they won't initiate a seal in the inverted position either unless they see a degree of back flow - all depends on how free the internal ball is). As soon as you stop blowing, give the valve a shake or turn it upside down to encourage the internal ball onto its seat.
They've got me to the next servo many a time and never had a problem making it work. The most interesting time was in the middle of a road tunnel at rush hour in Sydney.
As mentioned above, how easy it is depends on how free the ball is but always been able to make it work.

[MarkH]

So, what are the tricks to getting the 4 bolts that hold the brake disk undone?

I'm trying to mount my DR350 wheel but need to change the brake disk first, them bolts don't want to undo. I'm nearly at the point of drilling the fuckers out and then using some new bolts.

[RogIrwin]

So, what are the tricks to getting the 4 bolts that hold the brake disk undone?

Heat. I've had success using a blow torch to melt the lock tight. Good Luck.

[Big Dog]

Heat. I've had success using a blow torch to melt the lock tight. Good Luck.
Plus 1. Although I used a heat gun and a impact driver.

Sent via tapatalk.

[JATZ]

Heat. I've had success using a blow torch to melt the lock tight. Good Luck.
But not to much... There's seals and bearings pretty close

[Scubbo]

just smack each screw with a rubber mallet a few times straight down on the head, then slightly tighten them then they will backout easily -- if that stubborn use a soldering iron to heat just the screw head then repeat

[MarkH]

I've tried heat and an impact gun, I'll try a bit more before just drilling them fuckers out.
Thanks for the suggestions though, I'll try the Scubbo method and see if it helps.
There aren't any bearings or seals anywhere near, the bearings are still sitting in my bedroom, I'll grab them when I go to actually mount the wheel on the bike.

[MarkH]

I've tried heat and an impact gun, I'll try a bit more before just drilling them fuckers out.

Fuck me!
I used everything I could - heat, impact gun, hammer, pneumatic chisel, swearing, etc
Those fuckers were on damn tight, I think that brake disk was on from the factory and never moved - I could feel the dished out part from wear.
Gave up and drilled through them, used a big enough drill to break the heads of and then used my screw extractors to get the rest of the screws out.
That shit took fuckin' ages!

Now, how bad would it be to ride on 90/10 (off/on road) knobblies (they have "not for highway use" written on the sidewalls) for about 200kms on the road?
Or should I strap this 18" on the back and ride down with my 17" wheel and change the wheel over when I get to Taumaranui?
Remembering of course to take my new wheel bearings and sprocket carrier bearings & cush rubbers.
Or mount the Mitas E07 on the 18" and put that on the bike and strap the Kenda K770 tyre to the back of the bike?

[Big Dog]

Fuck me!
I used everything I could - heat, impact gun, hammer, pneumatic chisel, swearing, etc
Those fuckers were on damn tight, I think that brake disk was on from the factory and never moved - I could feel the dished out part from wear.
Gave up and drilled through them, used a big enough drill to break the heads of and then used my screw extractors to get the rest of the screws out.
That shit took fuckin' ages!

Now, how bad would it be to ride on 90/10 (off/on road) knobblies (they have "not for highway use" written on the sidewalls) for about 200kms on the road?
Or should I strap this 18" on the back and ride down with my 17" wheel and change the wheel over when I get to Taumaranui?
Remembering of course to take my new wheel bearings and sprocket carrier bearings & cush rubbers.
Or mount the Mitas E07 on the 18" and put that on the bike and strap the Kenda K770 tyre to the back of the bike?
That far on 90/10 you might just get mistaken for snoop dogg. Cos you be rolling blunts.
They will probably look all right and run alright until you really need them to dig in.
I ran some knobbies with road ratings to work for a while because bank balance said no more tyres for me.

They won't fine... on the road and in the gravel... just not on clay or even grass

Sent via tapatalk.

[MarkH]

They will probably look all right and run alright until you really need them to dig in.
I ran some knobbies with road ratings to work for a while because bank balance said no more tyres for me.

They won't fine... on the road and in the gravel... just not on clay or even grass


Yeah, that's why I'm thinking of riding down on the 17" and then swapping wheels when I get there.
It's been raining so a lot of the off road stuff will be quite slippery, both the 42nd traverse and old Whangamomona road.

[MarkH]

The Kenda tyres worked pretty well on the 42nd traverse, the bike wasn't immune to sliding on the slippery stuff but was able to push through giving some forward energy like the 50/50 tyres just can't. The Doubletake mirrors survived happily, in fact the bike came through it totally fine except dirtier. Unfortunately in a wee off on the 42nd traverse my right wrist took a minor impact and was hurting more when I woke up on Sunday than when I had got back the previous evening (shouldn't rest be good for an injury?). So I skipped the Old Whangamomona road ride on Sunday and suffered with the wrist for ~200km riding home. The wrist is feeling a bit less sore today so hopefully I'll be OK when I go back to work tomorrow.

The wheel swap worked out well anyway:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DtvPKs8b-cU/Vsoypy3a7dI/AAAAAAAAFHg/YutKgTdSB_U/s1032-Ic42/Taumaranui_camp_1h.jpg

I did ride the whole weekend on the Kenda K775FX Washougal front tyre and it looks like it could do the whole thing all over again quite happily. I'll be taking that tyre off the rim and putting it aside for the next time I'm doing a seriously off-road ride.
The K770 rear tyre with ~400km less riding than the front looks a bit more worn, but should still be OK for the next ride if I do the wheel swap trick again.
I'll be changing the tyres from both rims to the Mitas E07 tyres sitting in the garage - just as soon as the wrist is up to wrestling with the tyre irons.

The Tubliss system was great, I didn't have to worry about the tyres slipping on the rims and a puncture was unlikely.

[Big Dog]

The Kenda tyres worked pretty well on the 42nd traverse, the bike wasn't immune to sliding on the slippery stuff but was able to push through giving some forward energy like the 50/50 tyres just can't. The Doubletake mirrors survived happily, in fact the bike came through it totally fine except dirtier. Unfortunately in a wee off on the 42nd traverse my right wrist took a minor impact and was hurting more when I woke up on Sunday than when I had got back the previous evening (shouldn't rest be good for an injury?). So I skipped the Old Whangamomona road ride on Sunday and suffered with the wrist for ~200km riding home. The wrist is feeling a bit less sore today so hopefully I'll be OK when I go back to work tomorrow.

The wheel swap worked out well anyway:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DtvPKs8b-cU/Vsoypy3a7dI/AAAAAAAAFHg/YutKgTdSB_U/s1032-Ic42/Taumaranui_camp_1h.jpg

I did ride the whole weekend on the Kenda K775FX Washougal front tyre and it looks like it could do the whole thing all over again quite happily. I'll be taking that tyre off the rim and putting it aside for the next time I'm doing a seriously off-road ride.
The K770 rear tyre with ~400km less riding than the front looks a bit more worn, but should still be OK for the next ride if I do the wheel swap trick again.
I'll be changing the tyres from both rims to the Mitas E07 tyres sitting in the garage - just as soon as the wrist is up to wrestling with the tyre irons.

The Tubliss system was great, I didn't have to worry about the tyres slipping on the rims and a puncture was unlikely.
Excellent effort.

Sent via tapatalk.

[Scubbo]

I'd say, nice work! --- you can look into getting gloves with a limited movement support (like what kids wear when learning to roller blade?) there are motocross specific ones which are pretty cheap and might help the wrist support on a fall

edit: there you go >>> http://www.torpedo7.co.nz/products/E6GLFNNWR/title/evs-wrister-glove

[NordieBoy]

Oops :(
DR go clatter - clatter - clatter.

Engine still runs, just clatters a lot.
Cam and valves look fine, CCT looks good.
Broken cam chain guide or sumfin?

Probably stick the 120,000km old engine back in for the meantime.

Dammit...

[Box'a'bits]

So do what Woodman did & just stick some thicker oil in it? ;)

[NordieBoy]

Thicker oil and a bananana skin :wari:

Sounds like something of some length, flailing around. The only thing I can think of is one of the cam chain guides. But that said, I fix computers :violin:

[MarkH]

Oops :(
DR go clatter - clatter - clatter.

Engine still runs, just clatters a lot.
Cam and valves look fine, CCT looks good.
Broken cam chain guide or sumfin?

Probably stick the 120,000km old engine back in for the meantime.

Dammit...

You should ask this question on DRRiders.com or in the DR650 thread on ADVrider.com, then whatever Procycle says is the most likely cause will be what your problem is.
That fucker knows his shit when it comes to the DR650, just be careful on his website or you will end up spending a lot of money on really nice stuff.

[NordieBoy]

Already running a bit of stuff from Jesse and Procycle.
Waiting to see what NordieBro thinks of it.

[Woodman]

So do what Woodman did & just stick some thicker oil in it? ;)

Yeah, he knows stuff alright.

[NordieBoy]

Yeah, he knows stuff alright.
Remind me what you do for a crust now?

[Baldyman]

Don't laugh too much, as I believe they are hard to find, but I am after a set of stock wheels for a DR650. Anyone know where I could try? Good condition second hand.

Thanks.

[R650R]

Don't laugh too much, as I believe they are hard to find, but I am after a set of stock wheels for a DR650. Anyone know where I could try? Good condition second hand.

Thanks.

I've got a mint set, they even come self propelled attached to a bike. $7500 grand and you can have the engine and chassis as well :)

An option could be to get stock hubs from wrecker and spoke on AM rims....

[RGVforme]

I don't know about the front but I think there is a 90s model Dr350 rear rim that fits.Its a slight smaller size though and you will still need to swap out the brake disc.
You may get lucky and find a Motard conversion chap with a set in his shed or go that way yourself depending on why you may want two sets ie one road one trail.:rolleyes:

Good luck though if you find some ask the seller if he's got some Hens teeth for me would you.:lol:

[NordieBoy]

I've got spare wheels, but am probably keeping them as they were hard to get in the first place. As you are finding :)

[MarkH]

I'm also in the market for a spare DR650 21" front wheel and I want another DR350 18" cush drive rear wheel.
After removing my Kenda tyre to put on my Mitas tyre I'm realising how nice it would be if I could leave each on a rim and just swap the wheels over.

As well as an 18" rear and 21" front I'd also be buying the Tubliss system for each because it wouldn't be expensive enough otherwise.

[bobjac]

does anyone have a right hand sidecover any colour or condition they would like to sell . i lost mine on the dusty this year

[R650R]

does anyone have a right hand sidecover any colour or condition they would like to sell . i lost mine on the dusty this year

Yes, only want $7500.00, comes with free bike attached though :)

Have remounted my trailtech LEDs on a JNS engineering 3 inch mount after the factory reflector mounts proved unsuitable over the longer term (they cracked).
The JNS item is great build and design and supplied with new longer mounting bolts. Dealt direct with them as shipping was $20USd vs 60 USD at procycles and it arrived in less than a week.

[Night Falcon]

does anyone have a right hand sidecover any colour or condition they would like to sell . i lost mine on the dusty this year

yup, pretty sure I have one packed in box with various plastics from previous bikes.....only trouble is finding the box. You can have it for the postage if I can find it. Will have a quick look tomorrow for ya.

[bobjac]

thanks, look forward to hearing from you

[Kaituna]

I need a headlight shroud if anyone has one laying around? Not fussed about the condition as I don't have one at all :) Anyone have a spare?

[R650R]

About to start fault finding on the DR.... nothing like having electrical issues in middle of nowhere on cold desolate night....

Luckily after the first brief warning cutout as I dipped lights my truck driving experience taught me not to change anything while its still running and observe output level from headlight etc.
Anyhow get home safely to driveway, flick highbeam switch and bike dies, blew the main 30A fuse. Glad I didn't touch that switch again on highway!!!!
Tooltime and coffee here we go....... got to be a short to chassis somewhere.....

[R650R]

Well we have power again and high beam working but no obvious sign of short circuits or chaffed wires despite tracing loom fairly well....

[speights_bud]

Well we have power again and high beam working but no obvious sign of short circuits or chaffed wires despite tracing loom fairly well....
Had a similar problem on a '99 gsxr750. One of the loom mounting wires/brackets by the headstock poked through the loom shroud and poked a wire inside. Intermittent fault blowing the main fuse. Took months to figure out. Probably happened during a fairing swap for a track day

[R650R]

Had a similar problem on a '99 gsxr750. One of the loom mounting wires/brackets by the headstock poked through the loom shroud and poked a wire inside. Intermittent fault blowing the main fuse. Took months to figure out. Probably happened during a fairing swap for a track day

My 98 model has been fine sparkie wise apart from a couple years ago having one of the ignition coil/plugs fail, likely due to not being pressed on properly or just age loosening up and it arced it self into uselessness.

Todays progress on the DR amounted to buying some more spare fuses from super cheap on the way home from work :)

[MarkH]

There is nothing wrong with the DR650 . . . and yet I keep changing stuff, it's like a sickness!

I've changed my headlight bulb for an LED - 4800 Lumen (factory bulb is around 1200) while drawing 30w (factory bulb draws 60w).

I've also swapped out my Nelson Rigg saddlebags for a pair of Wolfman Expedition dry bags - It's hard to describe just how much better the Wolfman bags are, the way they attach, the way they sit on the bike, the quality and strength, etc. The Nelson Rigg bags have one redeeming feature, they are very cheap. The Wolfman bags are pretty much better in every way except in the price. I feel that the Wolfman bags will last a LOT longer so over time they could well work out cheaper.

[Baldyman]

Sorted. Thanks.

[R650R]

Well after a pretty thorough inspection and clean im putting it down to dust/dirt and damp/cold weather conditions at time. Had switch block apart, and now tank off inspecting all of loom.
Will be riding with plenty of spare fuses for awhile.

[R650R]

Nothing like a Brap around the suburbs to warm the bike up before an oil change sans ear plugs on a cool dry winters night (earlier in week) to really appreciate your bike :)
Lusting majorly at KTM 690's lately but the ol DR still has its old world charm :)

[RGVforme]

Nothing like a Brap around the suburbs to warm the bike up before an oil change sans ear plugs on a cool dry winters night (earlier in week) to really appreciate your bike :)
Lusting majorly at KTM 690's lately but the ol DR still has its old world charm :)

HB weather has been awesome for riding this year got a couple of warm full moonlit night beach rides in so far....Trying not to be too happy bout it as I do like having water to drink lol.Cant stop for a leak at any local without seeing some fred dagg farmer crying into his Tui for the sake of rain.

Lusting after a Pumkin aye :weird:

[R650R]

How long do people get out of their DR batteries???
Mine lives hooked up to the life support of a bettery tender as it has 24/7 sat tracker on it.
Anyhow after leaving it unattended at my partners place for too long it needed bump start when I went to gas up. Fired on about second try. Then had to bump it again at gas station - thanks bus driver bro...
Back to hers and the rain starts hammering down, "Honey get your running shoes on, its going to need a push"
Well would it start, hell no. Finally my exhausted darling got her neighbour to help push (so now its costing me a box of beer instead of a foot rub)....
The beast fires up (the bike) and its off on a decent long way home ride.
Get home, switch off and switch on and headlight fades faster than a candle in a southerly, its ferked....

A couple of days on charger think I've resurrected it (haven't cranked it yet) but prob going to buy new battery, has been in the bike from new (four years).....
Was looking at higher capacity but hell twice the price, might investigate as good discount through work...

[Bass]

How long do people get out of their DR batteries???


I got 7 years out of the original battery and I only changed it because I was going back into the middle of Oz. It was still performing fine.

[Bass]

There is nothing wrong with the DR650 . . . and yet I keep changing stuff, it's like a sickness!

I've changed my headlight bulb for an LED - 4800 Lumen (factory bulb is around 1200) while drawing 30w (factory bulb draws 60w).



Good move. Where did you get it and for how much please?

Deep red dust on a severely corrugated base does not reflect the stock DR headlight at all.

DAMHIK.

When you go into deep red dust on a severely corrugated base in the pitch dark on a DR at about 120 kph, life gets VERY interesting for a few seconds

[bart]

Still on original battery (2008 model, about 35k). Bike sits for months at a time. I usualy pretend bump start it down the hill outside my place to get fresh fuel through, then hit the starter and it fires every time.

Now I’ve done it. I bet it won’t startnext time.

[R650R]

Still on original battery (2008 model, about 35k). Bike sits for months at a time. I usualy pretend bump start it down the hill outside my place to get fresh fuel through, then hit the starter and it fires every time.

Now I’ve done it. I bet it won’t startnext time.

That's what I like about the TM40 flatslide, for some reason the fuel doesn't go off in that carb. Had same issue as you with my standard carby though, floatbowl made a donation to the lawnmower before evry journey.

[Night Falcon]

That's what I like about the TM40 flatslide, for some reason the fuel doesn't go off in that carb. Had same issue as you with my standard carby though, floatbowl made a donation to the lawnmower before evry journey.

I herd the problem is the stock carby's gaskets are made from pig skins so ya cant leave fuel in the bowl or it gets tainted?.............. probably how the DR got its nickname "the bush pig"?

[R650R]

I herd the problem is the stock carby's gaskets are made from pig skins so ya cant leave fuel in the bowl or it gets tainted?.............. probably how the DR got its nickname "the bush pig"?

Boar, boar, boarrrrrrrmmmm pop pop :)

Hey I just watched your December vid last night. Those rocks on beach look like same ones I parked the Dr upside down on. I was going other way though and there was a real sharp steppy bit, slimey as!

Took the DR for a morning urban Braaaaap, battery hanging in there but be buying a new one this week. Switched off up top of napier hill and did some restarts, even on warm oiled motor it was tad weakish.....

[Night Falcon]

Hey I just watched your December vid last night....


you need to get out more:laugh:

[pomgolian]

Just put a new battery in my 09 think it was original so lasted well, it was sitting in Perth for 10 months with the battery disconnected so thought it would be good to replace now she's home and as it was getting slow before that. Thought about these lighter fangled batteries but you need a diferent charger and saving a few grams I'd be better off having less pies which would be more beneficial As well :eek5:

Went for standard lead acid YTX9-BS katana as you can't get the Yuasa one anymore retail was $110 I think got it for $86:25 inc from local guy. The website says it's a diferent size but when it arrived it's exactly the same as standard.

Charged the old battery for a few hours and it doesn't seem any diferent to what it was :shit:

[Scubbo]

highly recommend http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/batteries-mounts/auction-1117401924.htm cells good price/life/CCA

[badblackbuell]

Oooo I see TM40 mentioned. Anyone feel like sharing which jets they're running? I wouldn't mind a comparison or any ideas where it should be jetted. Cheers!

[R650R]

Oooo I see TM40 mentioned. Anyone feel like sharing which jets they're running? I wouldn't mind a comparison or any ideas where it should be jetted. Cheers!

Will have a look tomorrow and my left overs and work out whats in there. The procycle ones are fine straight out of the box pretty much, think I may have changed main jet one size.

I did the top gear roll on couple times from 70k wide open and roughly timed the distance between roadmarkers, speed reached etc. Was a windy day so I really should do it properly one day but to be honest my DR rocks and pretty much does all and more that is asked of it :)

[badblackbuell]

Will have a look tomorrow and my left overs and work out whats in there. The procycle ones are fine straight out of the box pretty much, think I may have changed main jet one size.

I did the top gear roll on couple times from 70k wide open and roughly timed the distance between roadmarkers, speed reached etc. Was a windy day so I really should do it properly one day but to be honest my DR rocks and pretty much does all and more that is asked of it :)

Coolies. I'm running 25 pilot with two turns out, needle in middle and 155 main. Seems good. Oh yeah, open air box and fmf full system.

[R650R]

I still have main jet sizes 140-165 in increments of five so not sure what ive got in there right now without pulling it out.

DG O pipe, twin air filter and airbox standard apart from the snorkel removed. A local expert here commented that there's no point having an air intake to the motor that's bigger than whats coming out the exhaust, which kinda makes sense to me.
And I like the idea of the airbox not being completely vulnerable during river crossigns like those usa style cutout jobbies.....

[badblackbuell]

I still have main jet sizes 140-165 in increments of five so not sure what ive got in there right now without pulling it out.

DG O pipe, twin air filter and airbox standard apart from the snorkel removed. A local expert here commented that there's no point having an air intake to the motor that's bigger than whats coming out the exhaust, which kinda makes sense to me.
And I like the idea of the airbox not being completely vulnerable during river crossigns like those usa style cutout jobbies.....

Yeah there has been times of nervousness during water crosing and times of misery too. Thank god for the drain bung on the air box and its ability to be removed without tools.

[400sm]

"A local expert here commented that there's no point having an air intake to the motor that's bigger than whats coming out the exhaust, which kinda makes sense to me."

Using the above 'logic' how does the TM40 carb size compare with your pipe size?

[pete376403]

Did local expert consider that there is only atmospheric pressure pushing air into the motor but considerably more pressure pushing the air out?

[Racing Dave]

Did local expert consider that there is only atmospheric pressure pushing air into the motor but considerably more pressure pushing the air out?

Atmospheric pressure + the suction from the downstroke of the piston.

Still much much less than the pressure resulting from combustion (+ the upstroke of the piston).

[clint640]

Atmospheric pressure + the suction from the downstroke of the piston.
.

You might want to re-think exactly what you mean by suction.

Cheers
Clint

[R650R]

Can the Dr650 starter be removed for servicing the starter bush without taking half the engine apart like in those how to vids??? Damn this cold weather *rooster crow*.....

[pomgolian]

Yep you can get it out without removing all that crap - its fiddly but pretty easy mine was squawking took it out lubed and refitted, just does it now and then now.

[R650R]

Yep you can get it out without removing all that crap - its fiddly but pretty easy mine was squawking took it out lubed and refitted, just does it now and then now.

Thanks for that. I was looking yesterday and thought it looked doable without disturbing the oil lines and cam chain tensionor. Tempted to buy the Warp 9 bearing jobbie but then that leads to other purchases as well lol....

[R650R]

Cheers again, job done and test ridden. Ran it out of petrol near top of hill all warmed up and gave starter and battery good cranking, all good.
It seems a cold start on a cold miserable winters day is still lot of work on a big single though, least it sounds better :)

Only took off the clutch cable and its bracket which mounts the end of motor and yes bit fiddly but entirely doable. Prob easier seating the rubber gaskets out of motor but not too much of a mission.

[Waipukbiker]

I tried the warp 9 bearing and it shit itself after about 8 months, I then refitted the old end cap after using a bit of some new high tech grease we got at work, it was a synthetic, very high pressure grease that was designed not to 'pump" out under pressure. never had any more squawking from the starter. I just used to remove the oil lines and the cam chain tensioner and remove the starter, having to remove the exhaust is crap, dont need to.

[badblackbuell]

I tried the warp 9 bearing and it shit itself after about 8 months, I then refitted the old end cap after using a bit of some new high tech grease we got at work, it was a synthetic, very high pressure grease that was designed not to 'pump" out under pressure. never had any more squawking from the starter. I just used to remove the oil lines and the cam chain tensioner and remove the starter, having to remove the exhaust is crap, dont need to.

How did it break? I have just fitted one of these 😞

[Night Falcon]

Cheers again, job done and test ridden. Ran it out of petrol near top of hill all warmed up and gave starter and battery good cranking, all good.
It seems a cold start on a cold miserable winters day is still lot of work on a big single though, least it sounds better :)

Only took off the clutch cable and its bracket which mounts the end of motor and yes bit fiddly but entirely doable. Prob easier seating the rubber gaskets out of motor but not too much of a mission.

You should video the surgical procedure to update the internet....if you click the advertising box on utube you'll likely make a fortune :no:

[Bass]

I am not convinced that the DR starter squawk is the bearing bush. Mine was noisy while still having positive lubricant signs in the bush.

I suspect the source is the several thin washers, used to control end-float, chattering against one another when they dry out. Lubricating the bush usually results in lubricating them and after the second time, I specifically targeted them with good results.

[Waipukbiker]

The bearing got lumpy, possibly ran dry, I didnt bother hooking the seals out to check. I thought about replacing it with an NTN or similar but we were having great results with this grease at work in the loader and digger pins so I thought I would try it. Spun over as fast as the bearing cap and I never had anymore problems with it. May have been worthwhile re packing the bearing properly with a good grease when new prior to installing. I also wondered if the bearing position in the end cap was slightly out of alignment.

[Waipukbiker]

My crap memory, Just remembered why I removed the starter and found the bad bearing, I started having problems getting the starter to work, as in, no body home when hitting the button, When it finally did it when I was at home I checked all the circuits and found nothing, fed power power straight to the starter and still nothing so thats when I removed the starter and found the rough bearing but the rest of the starter looked fine, Changed the cap over and it ran fine on the bench. The bearing hadn't seized but was rough to turn by hand. Thats when I wondered about the alignment which may have caused the armature to short out against the body.

[R650R]

You should video the surgical procedure to update the internet...

I was tempted but looking at how restricted the space was I knew there would be lots of swearing involved so the final vid would have more beeps than a techno dance track remix :)

[chasio]

My Freewind has had a bad sad and the bottom end internals are poked after a chain-off-bind-around-front-sprocket incident*.

The bottom on a Freewind is the same as a DR. The top is somewhat different.

I'm thinking the cheapest option might be to find a half decent motor and swap the bottom end off it. I have been looking for months for a crash damaged donor bike or similar, with no luck.

Has anyone got any bright ideas, or a motor they may be willing to sell? Cheers.

* Lesson learned: if your chain starts to wear more quickly than usual, checking the cush drive bearing is not buggered is a good idea...

[R650R]

Anyone done the Cogent dynamics rear shock upgrade??? or fork springs??? After looking at other bike options I've realised how good the DR is 90% of the time compared to the cost (significant) of upgrading to something else.
The stock suspension is about the only thing left on my bike not changed so far.....
And the DR is a low profile bike you can kinda leave/park anywhere as opposed to a full on Rally Raid Dakar style KTM 690....
Only trouble is the cost starts adding up....

[RogIrwin]

Anyone done the Cogent dynamics rear shock upgrade??? or fork springs???

I have been thinking about doing this:

https://store.ricorshocks.com/ and https://www.amazon.com/Progressive-Suspension-11-1510-Polished-Spring/dp/B000GUYNRK/

[pomgolian]

I did both front and rear shock upgrades which made a huge difference, no more dive under braking and all round ride was far better.

Just sold it after returning to stock except suspension and carb work, figured all the farkles wouldn't add any value to the bike (might make easier to sell) but didn't in the end after two weeks and I can use them again or sell for a bit of cash for new farkles after the expensive upgrade :laugh:

[R650R]

I did both front and rear shock upgrades which made a huge difference, no more dive under braking and all round ride was far better.

Just sold it after returning to stock except suspension and carb work, figured all the farkles wouldn't add any value to the bike (might make easier to sell) but didn't in the end after two weeks and I can use them again or sell for a bit of cash for new farkles after the expensive upgrade :laugh:

Reading a few relevant threads elsewhere and now wondering after an excellent cool winters day Braaaap Braaaaap on tarmac only whether to just keep it as it is.
Had no gear on the back and stock the DR is just right for shitty nz backroads. Part of me thinks the soggy forks prob help the old steamer turn in as you shiut the throttle before gassing it again.
And a KTM guy on youtube remarked how he could have normal rides on his DR but on the Eurotart he lost lot of time talking to people who wanted to check his 690 out. That's kinda a bonus that the DR is a Wolf er maybe billy goat in sheeps clothing, you can have fun and the rural neighbourhood watch will just think your a local late for milking :)

[pomgolian]

Reading a few relevant threads elsewhere and now wondering after an excellent cool winters day Braaaap Braaaaap on tarmac only whether to just keep it as it is.
Had no gear on the back and stock the DR is just right for shitty nz backroads. Part of me thinks the soggy forks prob help the old steamer turn in as you shiut the throttle before gassing it again.
And a KTM guy on youtube remarked how he could have normal rides on his DR but on the Eurotart he lost lot of time talking to people who wanted to check his 690 out. That's kinda a bonus that the DR is a Wolf er maybe billy goat in sheeps clothing, you can have fun and the rural neighbourhood watch will just think your a local late for milking :)

Shame I didn't still have mine as a quick ride would have showed you how BAD the stock fork brake dive really is, almost dangerous compared to modified !!

[MXNUT]

Brand new Niche saddle bags for sale.

Brought for DR650 but never been used, and bike is now sold. $75.00

See trade me http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/moto...1140412496.htm

[Mishmop]

Hey Team,

Im Motoring up on my Dr650 for the 41st cold kiwi. Is there any other riders going up from Wellington?

0274200514

[Shadowjack]

Went for a short, but somewhat rough, ride after having the rear shock re-sprung, re-valved, and re-oiled. Hugely positive changes both on-seal and off-seal. New bike, really. Now for the front end...

[R650R]

Soon to be surplus to requirements.....

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0NXe246IFdveXVSRjk2NjdHbzQ/view?usp=sharing

TUI motocross style workshop stand, crate and some 15mm structural ply with drilled cutouts to snugly seat the bashplate boltheads.
Just high enough for both wheels off the deck :)


https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0NXe246IFdvdEtiNWVTUFplbGs/view?usp=sharing

[Night Falcon]

Soon to be surplus to requirements.....

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0NXe246IFdveXVSRjk2NjdHbzQ/view?usp=sharing

TUI motocross style workshop stand, crate and some 15mm structural ply with drilled cutouts to snugly seat the bashplate boltheads.
Just high enough for both wheels off the deck :)


https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0NXe246IFdvdEtiNWVTUFplbGs/view?usp=sharing

never had the bottle to make one of those stands :shifty:

[pomgolian]

Soon to be surplus to requirements.....

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0NXe246IFdveXVSRjk2NjdHbzQ/view?usp=sharing

TUI motocross style workshop stand, crate and some 15mm structural ply with drilled cutouts to snugly seat the bashplate boltheads.
Just high enough for both wheels off the deck :)


https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0NXe246IFdvdEtiNWVTUFplbGs/view?usp=sharing


Sooo you bought a bigger shock and the crate's now too low or did you buy the 690 ?

[Night Falcon]

Sooo you bought a bigger shock and the crate's now too low or did you buy the 690 ?
pretty sure he hasn't bought a 690, but yeah....whats the guts?





WhurRR arrived yet has it????

[R650R]

Patience please... all will be revealed soon...
For now all I can say is my arse hurts and a customs agent was involved along with a sum of cash...
I'm so excited... just had a Vodka so I can sleep after night shift. 8hrs unloading a train in the rain hasn't tired me out enough....
Hopefully a testride in the rain later before work...

[Night Falcon]

Patience please... all will be revealed soon...
For now all I can say is my arse hurts and a customs agent was involved along with a sum of cash...
I'm so excited... just had a Vodka so I can sleep after night shift. 8hrs unloading a train in the rain hasn't tired me out enough....
Hopefully a testride in the rain later before work...

hmmm customs.....vodka......gettin wet when it rain.....he's bought a Lada?

[R650R]

Damn I should have done this way earlier. The difference really is night and day level amazing.... :)

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0NXe246IFdvbFRSRnZqdHZNWEE/view?usp=sharing

[Oscar]

Johnny 4skins has his DR650 for sale:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/dual-purpose/auction-1173774909.htm

[R650R]

Day off today and fine weather so took the Cogentized DR down to Taradale river and then Pakowhai dirt park to Exorcise the inner BushPig out of it.

First ride with new suspension on proper rough stuff, DAMN its good.
Crossing rutted $WD tracks from left to right anytime any place, hitting whoops at reasonable speed and the suspension has recovered and settled before the next big hit with ease.
I started getting over confident and popping little air off the bigger pot hole whoopees and ended up crossed up going down front first into quite a deep hole with slight wall. The front end just soaked it up without bottoming and we just kept on ploughing ahead.
Down at Pakowhai it was mercyfully dry compared to last time I went there but now had plenty of silty sand drifts.
Once again the bike is a new animal altogether and performed well.

[H0dreNZ]

I've scored an FCR MX Carb and wondering if anyone on here has had experience with the jetting, I was looking at buying the jetting kit off procycle but they wanted 60+ dollars for shipping alone which for something that would fit in an envelope seemed steep.

Currently have the BST with Jetting drilled slide etc and a full open fmf header and exhaust cut airbox and that made a huge difference, but since I have a FCR sitting there I figure its worthwhile putting that in.

Firstly there wouldn't be anywhere in NZ that would stock kits specific for the DR650 would there? Had a good look around but cant seem to find any.. without ordering individual components.

And secondly MXRob recommends 155 Main, 40 Pilot, 100 pilot air, 35 leak jet and and EMP Needle. Just wondered for those you you out there who have them what jetting you are running if different?

[RMOTO]

MXRob recommends 155 Main, 40 Pilot, 100 pilot air, 35 leak jet and and EMP Needle. Just wondered for those you you out there who have them what jetting you are running if different?

I can't help with the jetting on a 650 as I don't ride one, but as for buying from NZ I have had limited joy. While I support local dealerships where I can, the quoted wait is up to 8 weeks due to no stockholding in NZ. I purchase from JetsRus (https://jetsrus.com/index.html). They have a full range of Keihin and Mikuni individual jets, needles, etc plus full rebuild kits. You have to pay via PayPal in a fairly clunky email method but the turnaround time is fairly quick.

Cheers

Josh

[NordieBoy]

MX Rob jetting is too rich for our fuel.

[H0dreNZ]

I can't help with the jetting on a 650 as I don't ride one, but as for buying from NZ I have had limited joy. While I support local dealerships where I can, the quoted wait is up to 8 weeks due to no stockholding in NZ. I purchase from JetsRus (https://jetsrus.com/index.html). They have a full range of Keihin and Mikuni individual jets, needles, etc plus full rebuild kits. You have to pay via PayPal in a fairly clunky email method but the turnaround time is fairly quick.

Cheers

Josh

Hey Josh, Had a look at "Jets R Us" and they have all the stuff id need, Was looking good and was going to make an order but I see they say they no longer ship internationally? Only to the USA, When was the last time you ordered some stuff off them? wondered if that had only recently changed?

Cheers Mark

[Davey_Jones]

Hi guys I have officially picked the DR650SE as my first ever motorbike, 2017 edition picture below with a few mods, Acerbis Fuel tank, bash plate, barkbuster hand guards and ventura pack system(bag and top rail not pictured).

http://i.imgur.com/nJvXynZ.jpg
Taken at Sumner in CHCH

[pete376403]

Hey Josh, Had a look at "Jets R Us" and they have all the stuff id need, Was looking good and was going to make an order but I see they say they no longer ship internationally? Only to the USA, When was the last time you ordered some stuff off them? wondered if that had only recently changed?

Cheers Mark

Open an account with shipito.com That gives you US mailing addresses. There is of course a cost involved but,... you want it or not? I've used them quite a few times without problems. https://www.shipito.com/en/?countrycode=NZ

[RMOTO]

Hey Josh, Had a look at "Jets R Us" and they have all the stuff id need, Was looking good and was going to make an order but I see they say they no longer ship internationally? Only to the USA, When was the last time you ordered some stuff off them? wondered if that had only recently changed?

Cheers Mark

About four months ago, or there abouts was my last order. I think he must get hit by fraudulent orders as his emails reference fraud quite a bit. I'd say drop him an email to see if he will ship to NZ, and if he doesn't, as Pete said there are places you can setup a US address and have them shipped to that address and then freighted to NZ. A handy thing to have when ordering other bike goodies from suppliers that won't ship to NZ.

Cheers

Josh

[MarkH]

Open an account with shipito.com

I've been using them for years, just checked my account and see that I've had 36 consolidated packages sent to me.
I've used them to buy from places that don't send overseas, for places that are too expensive on their shipping and to receive several smaller orders that I can consolidate into one package and have sent to NZ.
I like how I can choose to send by TNT, Fed-Ex, USPS, DHL and a few other options. Generally DHL Express is a good price while having good tracking and being very fast.

I buy from overseas when I can't get what I want here or when the local price is crazy expensive compared to the overseas price. Plenty of the things I've bought from overseas aren't available here and nor is any similar product that would be just as good.

[fodendeyo]

Anyone have a white DR650 (06) left hand plastic side panel they want to sell. I have lost mine. Any suggestions of where I could buy another?

Thanks
F

[MarkH]

Anyone have a white DR650 (06) left hand plastic side panel they want to sell. I have lost mine. Any suggestions of where I could buy another?

Thanks
F

Procycle have them.
Warning: The following website has been proven to be detrimental to the bank balance: https://procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#bodyframe

[fodendeyo]

Procycle have them.
Warning: The following website has been proven to be detrimental to the bank balance: https://procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#bodyframe



Thanks for the website

F

[R650R]

Suzuki are pretty good on OEM plastics, might be cheaper to get real deal at local shop....

[bigdog]

Hey guys,

My choke cable has seized, which seems to be common on the dr650. I was hoping I might be able to remove the cable from the bike and repair it, unfortunately I couldn't get it off without cutting it at the top where it connects to the choke lever, not to mention how it snapped when I tried to pull it out.

So anyway I'm considering getting a knob choke to replace the choke cable with. I have looked at the Procycle website but have decided I don't want to pay $50us for the $17 choke.

Does anyone know if you can pick up something in NZ that will work?

Or alternatively has anyone made their own choke knob? Some guy has posted a video on youtube on how to make one and I might give it a go to cut costs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z4Bi4YWTaqQ

[Addo007]

Check out
https://adventurebikeaustralia.com.au/product/choke-knob/

$24.95 Australian plus a little bit of shipping. I've used them before and they are really good.


Hey guys,

My choke cable has seized, which seems to be common on the dr650. I was hoping I might be able to remove the cable from the bike and repair it, unfortunately I couldn't get it off without cutting it at the top where it connects to the choke lever, not to mention how it snapped when I tried to pull it out.

So anyway I'm considering getting a knob choke to replace the choke cable with. I have looked at the Procycle website but have decided I don't want to pay $50us for the $17 choke.

Does anyone know if you can pick up something in NZ that will work?

Or alternatively has anyone made their own choke knob? Some guy has posted a video on youtube on how to make one and I might give it a go to cut costs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z4Bi4YWTaqQ

[Aslan]

Check out
https://adventurebikeaustralia.com.au/product/choke-knob/

$24.95 Australian plus a little bit of shipping. I've used them before and they are really good.

Sounds a good alternative source - I bought mine from Pro Cycle along with other items some years ago

[kiwibul]

Hey guys,

My choke cable has seized, which seems to be common on the dr650. I was hoping I might be able to remove the cable from the bike and repair it, unfortunately I couldn't get it off without cutting it at the top where it connects to the choke lever, not to mention how it snapped when I tried to pull it out.

So anyway I'm considering getting a knob choke to replace the choke cable with. I have looked at the Procycle website but have decided I don't want to pay $50us for the $17 choke.

Does anyone know if you can pick up something in NZ that will work?

Or alternatively has anyone made their own choke knob? Some guy has posted a video on youtube on how to make one and I might give it a go to cut costs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z4Bi4YWTaqQ

I just picked up an old Mikuni carb for $10 and removed the short choke knob off it, remove my cable one off my carb and screwed the short one on my carb, 15 minute job and no need to remove carb.

[bigdog]

I just picked up an old Mikuni carb for $10 and removed the short choke knob off it, remove my cable one off my carb and screwed the short one on my carb, 15 minute job and no need to remove carb.

Thats a pretty good idea. Did you find the old Mikuni carb on trademe or from a wrecker?

I might have a quick look around for an old Mikuni carb and if I cant find one I will just order a hand choke from adventurebikeaustralia.com.au which works out to be a bit cheaper than procycle - especially with shipping.

Most of the US suppliers like Procycle either don't ship internationally or charge an arm and a leg for shipping. It might actually be cheaper to use NZposts 'YouShop' service and get your order shipped to the YouShop warehouse in the states and then get it shipped to NZ. Doing it this way can be cheaper than getting Procycle to ship it directly, but you have to be careful to work out how much the order will weigh and whether it will be worthwhile using the YouShop service. I was considering doing this but the Australian distributor is probably going to work out cheaper with the exchange rates and all.

I was going to order a hand choke from Kientech as well using the before mention service since they dont ship itnernationally but it would of costed about $50. I think their choke is a bit longer and easier to use and also you don't have to grind down the idle stop on the throttle.

Thanks for the advice guys

[R650R]

My Flatslide came with hand choke as think i had to remove it to connect the standard cable jobbie to it.
Mines gotten tight at times but nothign a bit of teflon or wd40 hasnt fixed.
BTW the hand choke ones are inaccesible i think if you have the bigger fuel tank fitted, but i might be wrong.
Must get around to flicking off my original carb and othe rbits....

[kiwibul]

Thats a pretty good idea. Did you find the old Mikuni carb on trademe or from a wrecker?

I might have a quick look around for an old Mikuni carb and if I cant find one I will just order a hand choke from adventurebikeaustralia.com.au which works out to be a bit cheaper than procycle - especially with shipping.

Most of the US suppliers like Procycle either don't ship internationally or charge an arm and a leg for shipping. It might actually be cheaper to use NZposts 'YouShop' service and get your order shipped to the YouShop warehouse in the states and then get it shipped to NZ. Doing it this way can be cheaper than getting Procycle to ship it directly, but you have to be careful to work out how much the order will weigh and whether it will be worthwhile using the YouShop service. I was considering doing this but the Australian distributor is probably going to work out cheaper with the exchange rates and all.

I was going to order a hand choke from Kientech as well using the before mention service since they dont ship itnernationally but it would of costed about $50. I think their choke is a bit longer and easier to use and also you don't have to grind down the idle stop on the throttle.

Thanks for the advice guys
got the mikuni off a mate, it came off an old dr250, not the easiest to operate but once you know were to place your fingers to operate it, easy as, and you only need to use it once or twice a day.

[v twin]

I am trying to get an old dr650 running/correctly for a friend who has less idea than I do.its an old bike of there deceased father so I offered to help....kinda regretting it now.
I know this may have been covered already as I have been reading as much as I can about these bikes and the carbs seem to be well covers but I just can't seem to get the thing running smoothly if at all. Does seem to start easier when cold and then just gets worse to not starting.

It's been stood for ages and the story is it was well looked after but who knows really.
When it's running it does rev out hard and even idled for a bit but overall is a non runner and stall farts and feels like fuel issue/ starvation.
No real smoke and the exhaust is exhausting so not blocked...

So I've had the carb apart cleaned all the jets needle looks good, diaphragm etc look ok, float level set to a setting found on a thread. I have tried lifting the needle to riches the mixture and faffed with the choke.....

I have the fuel tap set to prime so should be getting all the fuel it needs to the carb.

I'm just out of ideas that cost no money, I would chuck on another carb to try if I could find one.

Any of you guys got any ideas or had similar probs, the carb seems the bikes weakest link but maybe I'm missing the obvious

[R650R]

I am trying to get an old dr650 running/correctly for a friend who has less idea than I do.its an old bike of there deceased father so I offered to help....kinda regretting it now.
I know this may have been covered already as I have been reading as much as I can about these bikes and the carbs seem to be well covers but I just can't seem to get the thing running smoothly if at all. Does seem to start easier when cold and then just gets worse to not starting.

It's been stood for ages and the story is it was well looked after but who knows really.
When it's running it does rev out hard and even idled for a bit but overall is a non runner and stall farts and feels like fuel issue/ starvation.
No real smoke and the exhaust is exhausting so not blocked...

So I've had the carb apart cleaned all the jets needle looks good, diaphragm etc look ok, float level set to a setting found on a thread. I have tried lifting the needle to riches the mixture and faffed with the choke.....

I have the fuel tap set to prime so should be getting all the fuel it needs to the carb.

I'm just out of ideas that cost no money, I would chuck on another carb to try if I could find one.

Any of you guys got any ideas or had similar probs, the carb seems the bikes weakest link but maybe I'm missing the obvious

Tried a clean air filter? Battery/Charging? Found the standard CV carb very intolerant of stale fuel before I put a flatslide in.

[v twin]

Tried a clean air filter? Battery/Charging? Found the standard CV carb very intolerant of stale fuel before I put a flatslide in.

Yeah changed fuel before I even started, pulled the air filter and is charging. I have got it idling hot off choke now near an acceptable idle speed. I would say the mixture screw is out 4 turns and idle is jacked on the throttle a bit I'd say, but it is running.
Bogs a bit on hard opening but has no acc pump so could be normal and holds the revs way too long after shut off...never ridden one so not sure but not normal I'd say.
Fueling just seems a bit changeable and since I just had a blast around the garden in 1st and a bit of 2nd seems very soft compared to the rotax I used to use.
Motor sounds good though, and a nice riding position so bike has potential.
If it was my bike I'd just buy a carb unit but reluctant to tell my friend it needs a carb and it's not....
Prices look to be high, think I saw a used one from the states. $500 by the time it got here:eek5:

[speights_bud]

Yeah changed fuel before I even started, pulled the air filter and is charging. I have got it idling hot off choke now near an acceptable idle speed. I would say the mixture screw is out 4 turns and idle is jacked on the throttle a bit I'd say, but it is running.
Bogs a bit on hard opening but has no acc pump so could be normal and holds the revs way too long after shut off...never ridden one so not sure but not normal I'd say.
Fueling just seems a bit changeable and since I just had a blast around the garden in 1st and a bit of 2nd seems very soft compared to the rotax I used to use.
Motor sounds good though, and a nice riding position so bike has potential.
If it was my bike I'd just buy a carb unit but reluctant to tell my friend it needs a carb and it's not....
Prices look to be high, think I saw a used one from the states. $500 by the time it got here:eek5:
Amongst other thing, check the sealing between the carb and block. Spray some engine start or something similar on the rubber while idling, if the engine speed rises you have an air leak on the engine side of the carb.

[Waipukbiker]

Have you checked the inline fuel filter?

[v twin]

Amongst other thing, check the sealing between the carb and block. Spray some engine start or something similar on the rubber while idling, if the engine speed rises you have an air leak on the engine side of the carb.

Yip sprayed brake cleaner around but no noticeable difference and pulled the carb about to see if the flange was perished....it was screaming air leak but unless there's something not standard I don't know about?? The 2 big strip and cleans have improved things but I'm still not convinced yet


[QUOTE=Waipukbiker;1131022345]Have you checked the inline fuel filter?[/QUOTE

Yip pulled that little bugger out, was clean but left it out for now.

Thanks for the replies so far, allgood to get the brain pumping even if the carb isn't...
The needle looked quite good if not newish. I'm a bit suspicious that the old guy may have had an issues before he moved on

[speights_bud]

Yip sprayed brake cleaner around but no noticeable difference and pulled the carb about to see if the flange was perished....it was screaming air leak but unless there's something not standard I don't know about?? The 2 big strip and cleans have improved things but I'm still not convinced yet


Choice, it sprung to mind as my younger brother visiting for Christmas came very close to seizing my 2T.

I went to go for a ride and it didn't feel right, then I saw almost no smoke and it was still cold. I shut it down and found this

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170106/677f24c749fdfd229461dba19774c550.jpg

Then I found he'd been riding it (with permission) for about 45 Min the day before and said he'd noticed it holding revs after shutting the throttle etc but forgot to tell me and just carried on anyway...

Lucky I run it super safe on the mix side. Piston is only 2 hours old.

[v twin]

Choice, it sprung to mind as my younger brother visiting for Christmas came very close to seizing my 2T.

I went to go for a ride and it didn't feel right, then I saw almost no smoke and it was still cold. I shut it down and found this

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170106/677f24c749fdfd229461dba19774c550.jpg

Then I found he'd been riding it (with permission) for about 45 Min the day before and said he'd noticed it holding revs after shutting the throttle etc but forgot to tell me and just carried on anyway...

Lucky I run it super safe on the mix side. Piston is only 2 hours old.

Woah lucky mate, the simplest of things can ruin yr day ae. Yeah I'd have put $$ on it being air from somewhere..... I'll look tomorrow now, I have a box of Waikato to work on

[speights_bud]

Woah lucky mate, the simplest of things can ruin yr day ae. Yeah I'd have put $$ on it being air from somewhere..... I'll look tomorrow now, I have a box of Waikato to work on
Sweet, hopefully you'll sort it. You've checked out factory specs with the Dr manual for the carb I assume? yep waiting on parts from the states to fix mine.

[pomgolian]

Have you pulled the fuel hose off the carb and checked fuel flow from the tank ? There is another filter in the fuel tap. The other thing mine suffered with once was a high resistance spark plug cap (just one) would run fine when cooled down but then pop and backfire warm and stall (on the side of the road north of Gisborne) the manual says check them together which showed up no fault but when you removed them and checked individually one was very high resistance, new cap and it ran sweet.

[clint640]

Another quick easy check is to get a bit of clear hose that fits on the carb drain, hold the other end up alongside the carb & open the drain screw. Then you will be able to see the float bowl fuel level - which should be very close to the join of the float bowl to the carb body.

Cheers
Clint

[v twin]

Well went for a standard carb rebuild kit, replaced all the seals and jets and idle screw. The kit didn't come with needle jet, only the needle which was the us version with a single slot.
I decided to used the old matching needle and jet as I feel the us needle wouldn't match the existing jet which I set on the 3rd slot.
Bike now runs sweet, gutless and boring but it's a nice steady ride. I can feel the need for all the carb/breathing mods I have been reading about, there's so much more to offer in there....I'd hope.
Still, I've done my bit and it's all good. Thanks for the input guys

[v twin]

Another quick easy check is to get a bit of clear hose that fits on the carb drain, hold the other end up alongside the carb & open the drain screw. Then you will be able to see the float bowl fuel level - which should be very close to the join of the float bowl to the carb body.

Cheers
Clint

Ha nice, simple but I didn't think of that

[bigdog]

Hey guys,

I ended up buying a hand-choke to replace my seized choke cable on the DR650. I bought it from Adventure Bike Australia, which as it turns out stocks the same hand choke as prorider. In hindsight I should of paid an extra $10 or so and got a longer hand choke from kientech, as the prorider one is hard to use in between the throttle cable and also requires filing down the idle stop.

I am going to fix the new choke shortly, should I use an anti-seize lube on the enricher head? Or is any grease fine? Or should I not bother lubing it altogether?

[MarkH]

I have been finding it super hard to get another 18" rear rim, my search in trademe has been running a long time with none showing up.
So I've bought one from ebay, I'm guessing the shipping will be a bit pricey - but it is worth it for bike parts!

From what I can work out it is only the 1990-1996 DR350S & DR350SE that got that cush drive wheel, they decided to drop the cush drive on the newer DR350 models and none of the non-street versions ever had the cush drive. I guess that is part of the reason you just don't see them for sale very much.

The next trick would be getting hold of a second wheel for the front, I don't suppose anyone has a DR650 21" wheel in decent condition to sell?

[pete376403]

Can you not get your existing hub respoked to a new 18" rim?

[MarkH]

Can you not get your existing hub respoked to a new 18" rim?

Maybe, but the rim would need to be designed to have the same number of spokes at the correct angle. The trouble with that is the 17" rim to factory hub would have a different angle to the spokes than an 18" rim due to a different distance.

My current DR350 18" rim only gave me trouble as far as getting 4 bolts out that held the brake disk on, once the brake disk was removed then it was a total piece of piss to get the new brake disk on, new bearings in, new cush rubbers in and the wheel onto the 650.

My biggest issue has been swapping between a 50/50 tyre and a 90/10 off-road tyre and back again. I'm wanting to mount a tyre on each rim and then I can swap between them easily, only changing a tyre on the rim when one wears out. It wasn't the 50/50 tyre so much as that fuckin' Kenda tyre - what a stiff carcase on that bitch! On the slippery shit the Kenda had a fuck load of 'bite' though, really useful on the 42nd Traverse and Fishers Track.

I already have a spare 18" & 21" Tubliss system ready to use on new rims, so no need to buy them. But I'll buy another DR650 brake disk, my Torpedo 7 one has been working fine so I'll just get another of those.

[v twin]

Have you pulled the fuel hose off the carb and checked fuel flow from the tank ? There is another filter in the fuel tap. The other thing mine suffered with once was a high resistance spark plug cap (just one) would run fine when cooled down but then pop and backfire warm and stall (on the side of the road north of Gisborne) the manual says check them together which showed up no fault but when you removed them and checked individually one was very high resistance, new cap and it ran sweet.

Well I had the bike for a week and all was well, got my friends to come get the bike and had it ready on the lawn waiting for them. Had a few beers etc feeling happy I had done a good deed until we went to start the bloody thing.....nothing...dead...anyways, ran through the basics and the bloody coil had crapped out, I hope this is the last of the problems.

[MarkH]

I have been finding it super hard to get another 18" rear rim, my search in trademe has been running a long time with none showing up.
So I've bought one from ebay, I'm guessing the shipping will be a bit pricey - but it is worth it for bike parts!

Yep, well over US$100 - in fact around US$155 to ship the wheel from the US to NZ.
Oh well, what can you do.

[bobjac]

i have a21in with disc from a 2013 in very good condition 098178298

[bobjac]

get in touch with tom morris in auckland he can supply and drill a rim blank to suite a dr hub and spoke with stainless spokes . Contacts in kiwi rider . he does a great job.

[MarkH]

Gave the DR a good run yesterday and picked up a spare 21" rim. It was a beautiful day for a ride!

One interesting thing I've been finding though: When the DR hasn't been run for a few weeks it is a bitch to start, turns over fine but doesn't seem to fire up. After several tries it fires up and is all good. After yesterday's run I got home, the bike sat in the garage for around 16 hours or so then I went to fill up with petrol - the bike fired into life immediately on the first press of the starter, cold engine is no problem.
Thoughts?

[Big Dog]

Gave the DR a good run yesterday and picked up a spare 21" rim. It was a beautiful day for a ride!

One interesting thing I've been finding though: When the DR hasn't been run for a few weeks it is a bitch to start, turns over fine but doesn't seem to fire up. After several tries it fires up and is all good. After yesterday's run I got home, the bike sat in the garage for around 16 hours or so then I went to fill up with petrol - the bike fired into life immediately on the first press of the starter, cold engine is no problem.
Thoughts?
Crap fuel, I give the DR350 a bit of a shake before trying to kick it if it has been longer than a week, maybe drain the bowl if it is still reluctant.

Sent from Tapatalk. DYAC

[R650R]

Crap fuel, I give the DR350 a bit of a shake before trying to kick it if it has been longer than a week, maybe drain the bowl if it is still reluctant.

Sent from Tapatalk. DYAC

Yep that's it. Worse with standard carb, seems more tolerant with the flatslide.
Gotta remember its a big single turning over very slowly, esp when cold after sitting for long time.

[Muzz67]

are bloody hard to push-start yesterday.

[bart]

are bloody hard to push-start yesterday.

You must be doing it wrong. Put it in 3rd gear. Pull the clutch and blip the throttle as soon as it fires.

[R650R]

Well nearly five years on my original DR horn has died, tried to resuscitate with WD40 which had worked on other dirtied up ones in past on other bikes but no go.
Stole the one off the GSXR as WOF time soon and damn it all if the King of interchangability on parts Mr Suzuki has made the GSXR one with a mount thread that is 2mm shorter to save 0.0000453 grams...
Anyway once removed the rubber mount grommet on DR its all good.
Just wondering if its worth trying to pull apart, can feel a slight movement its trying to beep.....

[MarkH]

So, on the ADV forums in the DR650 thread someone posted a picture of this seat:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MaEPi7P2wsyqt77EryP82GkCbhPl0T74S5GdHedzWOoJTcG9Ww 96LZhPrniVnZzaYbIAL1-R7zp08hNcF9pGSAixoheQyn3cjiyujwMRjwsu7XSq1wc8wc-KkX64ESxniNPtja6veYxH-gYHaF7Gm2hGDlM1rnHznlnJ9g6hxElIzmsoGifa11uQa1bp-R7rsfb81JpBoWppa3EdKzvjQZc2Fp0R5vCZeC_cK3ppFhLFmM8 h6S675Tow_Jap6gGgzJcVgsrOZY-PIlJhwVrFnwANISmGjFzMKlfQ0iA5ZalOsLsOQOUyveThF3M_O HIHVoIRZYLjVizAvICr3oetnJNi9Y9dEUZegc08MgyxO4tPWsV lpm_zbJmkqa8JndSgBaHHRm3FlV31eWn_N24Wa9YMpc8vSRrz7 gZ--mVPtoSt5VlO4rRlCnUe1livy-tRsqZGcUd1AM3s1XDcN-Bf9TM0vaEUy5MFunYcokyRj0r48Rf0QCD5vxEwVuQFMtpKhsPd bSWEJ3Px46wxNgK0UCzvROiFap0CLI2JpBucdAbUg3wdnKIi_A yU9i8jDYRKLmNj9eQXnWQD2CmOyenfHKTN6lQ8ciWtZNL6zs0B Cw0BoXThltFZ=w463-h346-no

He wasn't sure but thought is was a Russell Day Long seat, I suspect that it correct.
He also said it was for sale, so I've bought it.
Since I use my DR650 as an adventure bike and would like to do some longer rides it might be nice to have a comfy seat.
Really looking forward to trying this out.

[R650R]

So, on the ADV forums in the DR650 thread someone posted a picture of this seat:


He wasn't sure but thought is was a Russell Day Long seat, I suspect that it correct.
He also said it was for sale, so I've bought it.
Since I use my DR650 as an adventure bike and would like to do some longer rides it might be nice to have a comfy seat.
Really looking forward to trying this out.

How much does it weigh????? At least it will save your side panels in a crash

[MarkH]

How much does it weigh????? At least it will save your side panels in a crash

Any crash that damages my side panels is one that I probably wouldn't survive!
I have side racks and then on them are my Wolfman Drybags, the side panels are nowhere near being in harms way.

[Eddieb]

So, on the ADV forums in the DR650 thread someone posted a picture of this seat:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MaEPi7P2wsyqt77EryP82GkCbhPl0T74S5GdHedzWOoJTcG9Ww 96LZhPrniVnZzaYbIAL1-R7zp08hNcF9pGSAixoheQyn3cjiyujwMRjwsu7XSq1wc8wc-KkX64ESxniNPtja6veYxH-gYHaF7Gm2hGDlM1rnHznlnJ9g6hxElIzmsoGifa11uQa1bp-R7rsfb81JpBoWppa3EdKzvjQZc2Fp0R5vCZeC_cK3ppFhLFmM8 h6S675Tow_Jap6gGgzJcVgsrOZY-PIlJhwVrFnwANISmGjFzMKlfQ0iA5ZalOsLsOQOUyveThF3M_O HIHVoIRZYLjVizAvICr3oetnJNi9Y9dEUZegc08MgyxO4tPWsV lpm_zbJmkqa8JndSgBaHHRm3FlV31eWn_N24Wa9YMpc8vSRrz7 gZ--mVPtoSt5VlO4rRlCnUe1livy-tRsqZGcUd1AM3s1XDcN-Bf9TM0vaEUy5MFunYcokyRj0r48Rf0QCD5vxEwVuQFMtpKhsPd bSWEJ3Px46wxNgK0UCzvROiFap0CLI2JpBucdAbUg3wdnKIi_A yU9i8jDYRKLmNj9eQXnWQD2CmOyenfHKTN6lQ8ciWtZNL6zs0B Cw0BoXThltFZ=w463-h346-no

He wasn't sure but thought is was a Russell Day Long seat, I suspect that it correct.
He also said it was for sale, so I've bought it.
Since I use my DR650 as an adventure bike and would like to do some longer rides it might be nice to have a comfy seat.
Really looking forward to trying this out.

This is a Russell Day Long on my DR

http://www.adventureridingnz.co.nz/wp-content/uploads/DR650_Upgrade_3.jpg

More pics and info: http://www.adventureridingnz.co.nz/forums/topic/random-adventure-riding-pics/#post-8473

[Blizzo]

A bit out of context but have any of you lads done the rmz450 front fork upgrade and have the stock dr650 forks lying around? I'm after a set to upgrade the front end of my BMW r80 g/s. If any of you have anything could you please flick me a private message?

[Bass]

Just wondering if its worth trying to pull apart, can feel a slight movement its trying to beep.....

They are a resonant device. The diaphragm in them is weighted so that the assembly vibrates at its resonant frequency. They are tuned by the adjusting the tiny screw with the locknut in the back. it adjusts the resting position of one of the points terminals.
Suggest that you give it a good flush with CRC 5-56 or WD 40 (probably already done), blow it out with compressed air and try adjusting the set screw CAREFULLY. A very small adjustment can make all the difference.
If that doesn't work, biff it. They are a dog to dismantle and reassemble so that the diaphragm is properly retained = a lot of work for a very small probability of a good result.

[Specialized]

Any info on how to give a DR650 more power please . Taking out the restrictions etc !! And any idea of a more long distance seat that would be easier on the bum for both rider and pillion ?

[RogIrwin]

Any info on how to give a DR650 more power please .

Putting an FCR-MX carb makes a huge difference. You may also want to look at replacing the exhaust.

http://mxrob.com/mxrob_007.htm

This requires quite a lot or fiddling around to get the jets right but well worth it. There are also jetting kits for the stock carb..

[badblackbuell]

Open the airbox right up, 45 pilot, 160 main, 2nd highest clip on the needle and get a full exhaust. Makes a huge difference. Mikuni TM40 is the next step after that.

[R650R]

Any info on how to give a DR650 more power please . Taking out the restrictions etc !! And any idea of a more long distance seat that would be easier on the bum for both rider and pillion ?

Get the Procycle seat at top of this list https://procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#bodyframe. Take your old dseat cover and foam off and staple the new one on, easy as, way better.
Get rid of the standard exhaust and put any aftermarket exhaust on. Take rubber snorkel off airbox.
Flatslide carb is good, don't think it makes a whole lot more power with it but the engine breathes better at low revs.
Better off upgrading suspension before going horsepower hunting....

Its probably just cheaper to buy opne of these... http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/dual-purpose/auction-1311669242.htm

[Eddieb]

Any info on how to give a DR650 more power please . Taking out the restrictions etc !! And any idea of a more long distance seat that would be easier on the bum for both rider and pillion ?

I've got a DR650 high compression piston brand new still in the box. $390 and I'll throw in 3/4’s of a tube of both Ultra Copper gasket lube and Engine assembly lube which are required for fitting.

The piston comes with High Compression piston, rings, gudgeon pin and clips, it is highly recommended you also fit new head and base gaskets which can be obtained from your local Suzuki dealer.

[ArgoBloke]

So I disassembled the carby yesterday, and went for a test ride only to find the drain screw was gone:Oops:
Anybody know where I could get a replacement?
Any pointers are appreciated.

[R650R]

Just take a screwdriver along on the next group ride....

[NordieBoy]

So I disassembled the carby yesterday, and went for a test ride only to find the drain screw was gone:Oops:
Anybody know where I could get a replacement?
Any pointers are appreciated.

I've got a spare. May be better to try a local bike shop though. It'll be the same as on many old carbs.

[MarkH]

Well, the deal is done and my DR will be gone on Friday, along with pretty much all of my money. I'm buying my first brand new motor-vehicle which will also be the dearest vehicle I've ever owned. I got a good deal but it is still a really expensive bike.

I've reverted a few things back to stock before taking it to the Honda dealer to sort out the trade in, consequently I have a few nice bits to get rid of, while also being a bit desperate for money.

Is anyone interested in a Russel Day Long seat? Picture on post 3139.

There is also the 18" wheel I've been running. It is a DR350 cush drive wheel with DR650 brake disk (Torpedo 7 after-market disk actually). It has a Tubliss kit and a Mitas E07 in good condition, holds air really well. When I got it I bought a new set of cush rubbers and both wheel bearings and carrier bearing. It has the carrier but not a sprocket.

I have a pair of Wolfman drybags that I won't need, I'll eventually (once I have the money) get hard cases and rack for the new bike.

I have a spare DR650 front wheel that I was going to mount a different tyre on, but never got around to using.

There is a 2nd 18" cush drive DR350 wheel that I haven't used yet, the condition might not be quite as good as the one I've been running and will probably need new bearings and maybe new cush rubbers too. I wouldn't expect as much money for that, so if someone is keen on sorting it out they can make an offer.

I'll sort out what I have to sell and put stuff on trademe, but if anyone is really keen and makes a fair offer I'm happy to make a quick sale. I'm in the Waikato (Morrinsville) so anyone in the area can get in touch if they want to come and have a look at these things I need to sell.

[MarkH]

My 18" wheel:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lx87VEQ9wNYmagCR5xnZ9B8CO_mF-2YNs06WmLhNqhZJljnD_CvWqa_7WpdqPYoXBGYu6h0b2OzExMR _Nomfnzb2ooITY5lYoQ_jkUdSb4dLtv1sBDkQLnIC3zZKTjGHS M_nb7nmr1S45lujRJcS3-TzQ-ucIbx-S3z5pTIBMreHZmQ0q2Rm0KYDhdMxau-KqOl7w0wRSDCAsHU8duV4JFRCXiROiy1GsqOySScNeMEapq0ua fluj_2RLRJ4JX3KI8GRqjhEhPXcoqVy3Tq5ouSFoYQkwJbCP8C M-QJ1-njQ9dgM0Ot31WMwF4y7WRbTQrGyBM6FkMm1IrSuNRpy3OfXd8_ Xlm4atC07eZikiFY0AvTFx_kL-as9JZZfT19056sOjgf1OiVMRFfacyG6kvlYNZHANfOLQ-fsbf8_gxUYcmftrgi-XolpzZ-oxJA3jPumluX6r5wLrvY960WPjNPD184jxdYBRX24UXWDmIJ8P 57weuatbfEVdiC9kFOABAziPSIWfK3z5wdaPn67Z2jzF4BfLus PALJJ9jrA9SYEarOXl-Z9quXsScScmR3Kg8ZwlJ83Hh-vaQpYS_Z3Q88jEyAWQIe_qRYepUQ=w1000-h750-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hHhE8iDbPZ0eydpMmeIn1KATULtOewLye6wl8iopzFJxXRzvDp MMWJJO1Lfu5Auo_czg06yrMKdsDjYJQBD6hykDkcgXRLf5HiB4 8YCioGYsmBpRhjxU6khq7eHrVCRRFnpV99UXYsuPLYtPRdkk18 GES7V8QLf8MhHorme7AIQevYybm5Pt7Myn08lZ85pG-5ybBN_yUzQrjTHSzyHKYr-0-zVkABk1YSQvLhQVaO4O2TThKklxSZvOsZ-KDgyV0ado-93tivoNEPw_r3G5S1hFEAF2LstEiTVMCczWWP1maK57w3pwi8n s9swxTj9kUdb-_J_cMESwR43pW5NiYqweysdhA7XvFp_9Trd1vOqr7Qz1bsxR26 tQ6jGcYlecNsVy8nGIecwfIyxUS2m5Kek_pmrSqo-XZjf8f7cyZGkoac6rMzBsWi6CJPZCE5hsiX4d3O4znTE1Q3WBo SW3V2LRvkc7xt3hLcRa3v6tjE25CbW4Shxq9tnyeVfFtNZK2-q_FUOxW-icdl8kmuJn0nq0B7013_y5t_1QJn8Ma_sYoH9_C5lHG17Hj-lM3HuxaTFP9RtZbJgsaCEOxMBwVScYsBFmwNW2lPrUbDM=w100 0-h750-no

Again: It is a DR350 cush drive wheel with a (Torpedo 7) DR650 brake disk, Tubliss kit & Mitas E07 tyre. There would still be half the life (at least) left on the E07.

[MarkH]

Here's the Trademe listing for that wheel/tyre/Tubliss: https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1584903030
Personally, I think the price is pretty good for what you get.

[badlieutenant]

Long time lurker on this thread. Alot of great advice,suggestions and links.
Just wondering if anyone has or knows of a tank for a dr650 pre 96. My mate is struggling to find one for his 94.
Interesting riding the 2 bikes. Older bike has more power but weighs more. Suspension is very similar altho i have rmz (1986) forks on mine now. Amazing that 2 completely different bikes have such similar characteristics. Or not, maybe that was suzukis goal. Same but lighter.
Anyhoo if anyone can help that would be awesome :)

[Shadowjack]

So, more for the data stream attached to 3rd gears:
Although the reason for it is unconfirmed at this point: on my homeward commute on Tuesday, the DR650 went "BANG", and stopped. Wont turn over on the starter, makes horrible grumbling sounds when wheeled around the garage (clutch in, in gear), the chain jumps around all over the place. I will be taking it for a professional opinion on Saturday - will update after that. I suspect something catastrophic...
Data points: 2004; 114,083 kms; mostly Canterbury Plains commuting; large-ish rider.

[Shoshoni]

So, more for the data stream attached to 3rd gears:
Although the reason for it is unconfirmed at this point: on my homeward commute on Tuesday, the DR650 went "BANG", and stopped. Wont turn over on the starter, makes horrible grumbling sounds when wheeled around the garage (clutch in, in gear), the chain jumps around all over the place. I will be taking it for a professional opinion on Saturday - will update after that. I suspect something catastrophic...
Data points: 2004; 114,083 kms; mostly Canterbury Plains commuting; large-ish rider.

You'll know if it's third gear, try putting the bike in third and see if the back wheel spins freely

[Shadowjack]

Thanks for that tip - I'll give it a try tomorrow, or when I get it to town on Saturday.

[Shadowjack]

So.
Update time.
The engine is toast - gearbox seized, conrod looks as though its had a hammering, piston damaged, cylinder sleeve has had the bottom smashed off.
Its uneconomic to repair, unless (or if I want) I go for a used engine. Which are probably worth more than the bike.
Anyone want a tastefully farkled rolling chassis..?

[NordieBoy]

I've got a 10,000km 2010 engine that most likely just needs a front cam chain tensioner.
$1000

A complete 1997 engine with 150,000km (ims tank, rear spring etc) that runs fine in a rolling chassis (2001) that just needs a wiring loom and fork seals.
$2500

[Shadowjack]

I've got a 10,000km 2010 engine that most likely just needs a front cam chain tensioner.
$1000

A complete 1997 engine with 150,000km (ims tank, rear spring etc) that runs fine in a rolling chassis (2001) that just needs a wiring loom and fork seals.
$2500

PM sent......

[Bass]

Since we moved out of Orks and down to Whakatane, the DR has been dragged out and used for a bit of exploring. I had forgotten how much more capable it is in the loose staff than the elephantine GS.
Anyway, it has slowly developed a case of the "vibes". It reminds me of a 640 Adventure these days.
Now I have had a bit of a look and can't find anything loose.
It's recently passed a warrant and I have given the wheels a good twist. The wheel bearings feel OK.
So the question is, how much difference (if any) will some new rubber in the cush drive make?

[Brainflex]

I can't help with the DR issue but I can say welcome to Whakatane and if you want to meet up for a ride then let me know.

[R650R]

I wouldn't thought cush rubbers would be vibe source, once under load you'd think any movement would cease, just snatchy ness when on off power....

Tried clutching in and killing engine to eliminate that source??? or coast in neutral etc.....
Check for broken engine mount/suspension bolts etc....skidplate....

good luck....

[neil.]

I wouldn't thought cush rubbers would be vibe source, once under load you'd think any movement would cease, just snatchy ness when on off power....

Tried clutching in and killing engine to eliminate that source??? or coast in neutral etc.....
Check for broken engine mount/suspension bolts etc....skidplate....

good luck....



I'd agree with this to start with anyway, every now and then my xt660r starts to feel like i'm riding a bucket of rocks, and even seems like it doesn't want to rev out properly.
so far its just been the fact that one of the engine mount bolts has loosened a tiny bit.

after a good go-around of checking everything its back to smooth again

part of the problem seems to be that the bolts supplied with aftermarket engine bars, are not the same spec as the OEM ones, so using OEM torque settings gives the wrong amount of tension/stretch in the bolts.

either way it's an easy thing to check and rule out etc.

Edit: and yes the skid plate, mine amplifies every little noise and makes normal things sound awful!

[Bass]

Thanks guys. The cush drive is there, at least in part, to dampen engine power pulses which big singles are notorious for and so I figured the rubbers might be due for a change. They do have a finite life I believe.
If you want to see the pulse effect, just look at the rear wheel track in damp sand. You can see every power stroke when a bit of gas has been applied. It's the main reason that thumpers are so hard on rear tyres. I used to get about 2000 km out of a Dunlop 606 - 2 rear tyres per oil change.
Anyway, next time I have the tank off, I shall have a good look around.
Just at the moment, I am focussed on getting the other bike crated up for a couple of months in the US of A and Canada. That's if we can get compulsory insurance since the only supplier to foreign nationals recently pulled out of the field citing changes in the European privacy laws.

If it happens, the Beemer will spend about 5 weeks on the water each way and so the DR could well get some much needed attention.

[Bass]

I can't help with the DR issue but I can say welcome to Whakatane and if you want to meet up for a ride then let me know.

Thanks for the offer - may well just do that.

[MXNUT]

Just at the moment, I am focussed on getting the other bike crated up for a couple of months in the US of A and Canada. That's if we can get compulsory insurance since the only supplier to foreign nationals recently pulled out of the field citing changes in the European privacy laws.

If it happens, the Beemer will spend about 5 weeks on the water each way and so the DR could well get some much needed attention.

Just working through the same issue at the moment, but our bikes are already on the way and due to arrive in about 10 days. From what I have read on FB this issue is effecting quite a few people
from lots of different countries who were trying to travel in the US.

[Martin241]

Hi All
Im putting a 94DR650RSE back on the road.
It passed WOF yesterday :cool:
Are there any other pre 96 bikes in Chch?
Cheers Martin

[Navy Boy]

Hi All

I'm looking for a bash plate for my DR. I've found an Acerbis one on Amazon for some $170 delivered though I was wondering if anyone has any other suggestions. What's the official Suzuki item like or do people recommend something different?

[NordieBoy]

The Suzuki one doesn't protect the sides of the cases/oil filter cover.
It does protect the underside nicely. It does need a longer engine bolt (that comes with it) to mount it though.

[Eddieb]

Hi All

I'm looking for a bash plate for my DR. I've found an Acerbis one on Amazon for some $170 delivered though I was wondering if anyone has any other suggestions. What's the official Suzuki item like or do people recommend something different?

NZ made DR650 bashplate

https://www.adventureridingnz.co.nz/shop/gpcustom/suzuki-dr-650-bashplate/

[Navy Boy]

Thanks. I'll take a look.

[ArgoBloke]

Hi all,
posted this at the DR650 Oz Thread, but here goes in case someone might have the answer...

My 2011 DR (GSXR exhaust, opened up airbox, drilled slide, Dynojet needle on 3rd slot, 155 Main Jet) has been sitting in the garage for quite some time. I have always been able to get it going and I am very experienced in the carby....at least so I believed.
It has progressively been getting harder to start (it sits in the garage for long periods of time), and last weekend I replaced the float O rings and needle. Got it running last Sunday and I thought I'd fixed it only to find it wouldn't start again....just spent the whole of Saturday and I've achieved bugger all.
Spark is good, battery is good, fuel flow is good; but it will not go. After extensive cranking it lets out an occasional bang but it just will not run.

I am getting to the point of pulling the carb out to take it to a shop, perhaps they might be able to tell me WTF is wrong with it.
I don't know the first thing about the electricals, I've read that the earth contact can cause trouble....?:brick:

Any ideas will be gratefully appreciated.

Argobloke

[jim.cox]

How fresh is the fuel? It goes off just sitting...

It could also be getting water in it from condensation in the tank.

[FJRider]

I am getting to the point of pulling the carb out to take it to a shop, perhaps they might be able to tell me WTF is wrong with it.
I don't know the first thing about the electricals, I've read that the earth contact can cause trouble....?:brick:

Any ideas will be gratefully appreciated.

Argobloke

Take the whole bike to a bike shop. Your opinion on what the actual problem is is only your opinion.

The carb may NOT be the issue. To light the fire you need fuel, air, and heat. ELECTRICAL'S provide the "Heat" bit.

Taking a carb to a "shop" tells them little ... do as jim.cox suggests and DRAIN and replace ALL the fuel first (not just the tank). Second ... CLEAN/replace the plugs and THEN check for spark.

If you don't use a bike for a while ... all the crud in the tank settles on the bottom. Try to start it ... and guess what enters the fuel system first.

SIMPLE things first.

[ArgoBloke]

How fresh is the fuel? It goes off just sitting...

It could also be getting water in it from condensation in the tank.
Yeah, good point, I reckoned since it started several times last weekend it might have been good...will get some fresh fuel in it tomorrow and will report back.
Cheers for the input
AB

[Scubbo]

whens the last time you checked dem valve clearances? (non shim types IIRC so they go / can go out a lot quicker than your average bike but way easier to DIY set)

[Navy Boy]

With my DR I've taken to running the carb dry when I put it away after a ride. As others have said I'd start with the basic stuff first. When are the plugs last changed?

[nzspokes]

Yeah, good point, I reckoned since it started several times last weekend it might have been good...will get some fresh fuel in it tomorrow and will report back.
Cheers for the input
AB

Simple stuff first. Pull the plug, is it wet? Pour a little fuel into the plug hole. Replace the plug and see if it fires. If it does then fault is carb. If nothing fault is either spark, valve timing or compression.

[ArgoBloke]

Hi all,
posted this at the DR650 Oz Thread, but here goes in case someone might have the answer...

My 2011 DR (GSXR exhaust, opened up airbox, drilled slide, Dynojet needle on 3rd slot, 155 Main Jet) has been sitting in the garage for quite some time. I have always been able to get it going and I am very experienced in the carby....at least so I believed.
It has progressively been getting harder to start (it sits in the garage for long periods of time), and last weekend I replaced the float O rings and needle. Got it running last Sunday and I thought I'd fixed it only to find it wouldn't start again....just spent the whole of Saturday and I've achieved bugger all.
Spark is good, battery is good, fuel flow is good; but it will not go. After extensive cranking it lets out an occasional bang but it just will not run.

I am getting to the point of pulling the carb out to take it to a shop, perhaps they might be able to tell me WTF is wrong with it.
I don't know the first thing about the electricals, I've read that the earth contact can cause trouble....?:brick:

Any ideas will be gratefully appreciated.

Argobloke

Glad to report the cleaning the jets appears to have done the trick. The plugs were up for replacement and I also put in some fresh fuel...started on first try...Thank you for all your contributions!:drinkup:
Next thought is to get rid of hte shitty plastic choke bit and get a choke knob....went to Coleman Sukuki and the reckon $65 and 2 weeks from Japan...anybody done this and can it be found locally at a third of the price???:eek5:

Again, thank you all for your contributions...chuffed to be on the road again!:ride:

[Denniso]

Are there any bash plates out there that protect the sides of the engine from the gear lever from punching a hole in the case ( closing the barn door after the horse has buggered off:bye: )
Fixxed hole but would like for it not to happen again .

[Scubbo]

you buy plates that silicone onto the sides of the cases for cheap --- but perhaps not where you want to protect??

https://www.adventuremoto.com.au/assets/full/S4-13P.jpg
http://www.motorcycleproducts.org/Engine_Guards/DR650SE_Guards/DR650_ignition_guard_sm.jpg
https://miles-by-motorcycle.com/formvista/site_local/member_files/public/137/506/42867/photo_42867_large.jpg

[ArgoBloke]

G'day all,
Hoping to get pointers on the BST-40....The bike has given me grief starting cold and I've been messing with the idle screw and fuel/mixture, it doesn't seem to want to start unless I turn OUT the A/F screw to about 3 or 4....

The air/fuel mixture screw: the revs go up significantly if the screw is fully seated, it doesn't get erratic or stumble at all. Is this normal or is it a sign of running rich?

Any clues on what might be going on????
I've got a 2011 with cut airbox, no snorkel, 155 Main Jet, Dynojet needle on the 3rd slot and GSXR exhaust.

Also, any suggestions to get someone in Auckland (or nearby) to install the FCR-MX?
Cheers....
AB

[R650R]

G'day all,
Hoping to get pointers on the BST-40....The bike has given me grief starting cold and I've been messing with the idle screw and fuel/mixture, it doesn't seem to want to start unless I turn OUT the A/F screw to about 3 or 4....

The air/fuel mixture screw: the revs go up significantly if the screw is fully seated, it doesn't get erratic or stumble at all. Is this normal or is it a sign of running rich?

Any clues on what might be going on????
I've got a 2011 with cut airbox, no snorkel, 155 Main Jet, Dynojet needle on the 3rd slot and GSXR exhaust.

Also, any suggestions to get someone in Auckland (or nearby) to install the FCR-MX?
Cheers....
AB

Hopefully you can remember where you started out at, get back to there if you can. Hard to start on the stock carb is usually just fuel going off. Mine was bad for it. became a habit to drain the floatbowl if it was parked up more than few days and would fire up first pop. Flatslide doesn't seem to have same issue.

[ArgoBloke]

..........

[The Pastor]

the worst bike i ever owned was a DR650

[Jeff Sichoe]

you're not allowed to say faggot any more, haha been years since i've seen that

[Mr. Peanut]

you're not allowed to say faggot any more, haha been years since i've seen that

What kind of faggot bans a word?

[nzspokes]

Thread dredge.

A DR650 is finding its way to our bike cave.

Anybody got a bashguard kicking about they dont want?

[Bonez]

Thread dredge.

A DR650 is finding its way to our bike cave.

Anybody got a bashguard kicking about they dont want?What model year and milage? If it's an older one be aware od the neutral switch mounting bolt issue. They came loose so pays to check then and put lock tight on the threads.

[gpcustom]

If anyone is looking for DR650 & DRZ400 347658bash plates I’m still making them

[Berries]

the worst bike i ever owned was a DR650
What do the rest of you think?

Have just bought a KLX150 as the first bike for our lad and now I need something so I can ride with him. Will be easy trails I imagine. Bike has to be road legal so I can use it for the occasional commute in winter to save flinging my GSXR up the road.

Have ruled out the CRF450L now due to cost and fact a 15km open road commute would quickly eat up the tyres. Can't find any XR600s around. Thinking a DR400 which could also be his next bike in a few years but I might find a bit boring, or a 650. Seems to be more road than off road focused so wonder what it will be like on muddy trails.

Probably talking to the converted by posting in this thread but what the hell. Convince me.

[FJRider]

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/dual-purpose/suzuki/listing/2887377034?bof=Arrbo3Di

[Berries]

Yeah, have been in to Veitch's this week. A new 650 is cheaper which I don't get.

[FJRider]

Yeah, have been in to Veitch's this week. A new 650 is cheaper which I don't get.

Do a similar thing with yours ...

[JATZ]

Yeah, have been in to Veitch's this week. A new 650 is cheaper which I don't get.
DR 650... Old school and bland, with crap suspension, but an adequate commuter, easy trail bike. And you can throw lots of $$ at it to make it slightly better.
DRZ400... more fun out of the box, get the e model with better carb. Better suspension, and you can gear it up for the commute.
They're both pretty bullet proof though

[rupert]

I've looked everywhere I can think of for a roadworthy DR650 frame. I'm really surprised that they are not readily available because it is an incredibly popular bike in NZ (and elsewhere). Or I have been looking under the wrong street light. So, I'm looking for advise about who is likely to have a DR650 frame available.

[Bonez]

I've looked everywhere I can think of for a roadworthy DR650 frame. I'm really surprised that they are not readily available because it is an incredibly popular bike in NZ (and elsewhere). Or I have been looking under the wrong street light. So, I'm looking for advise about who is likely to have a DR650 frame available.
Contact one of the local gang or "club" establishments. They're bound to have a few laying about.

Just saying...

[husaberg]

I've looked everywhere I can think of for a roadworthy DR650 frame. I'm really surprised that they are not readily available because it is an incredibly popular bike in NZ (and elsewhere). Or I have been looking under the wrong street light. So, I'm looking for advise about who is likely to have a DR650 frame available.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/wrecking-bikes/listing-2929938455.htm
you're welcome.

[rupert]

husaberg.
Thanks for the heads up. I had already checked with that seller and the frame is damaged unfortunately (squashed at the bottom). So, I'm still looking.

[husaberg]

husaberg.
Thanks for the heads up. I had already checked with that seller and the frame is damaged unfortunately (squashed at the bottom). So, I'm still looking.

So whats wrong with yours?

[rupert]

It is bent beyond redemption due to a prang.

[rupert]

Still looking for a DR650 frame. Everyone must be holding onto their frames/running gear in case they get a replacement motor for the one that died. DR650 must be one of the most common bikes in NZ but very hard to find a frame in good condition.

[NordieBoy]

DR650 must be one of the most common bikes in NZ but very hard to find a frame in good condition.

They're just so reliable. Nothing ever goes wrong.

[rupert]

I'm still looking for a DR650 frame, somewhere out there in blown up engine land, maybe...

[pete376403]

Would it not be possible to cut the squashed sections from the trademe frame and replace them with the (if undamaged) sections from your frame? Competent welder could do this without too much trouble.

I have straight KLR frame to sell. Would be an interesting mash-up.

[FJRider]

Would it not be possible to cut the squashed sections from the trademe frame and replace them with the (if undamaged) sections from your frame? Competent welder could do this without too much trouble.

I have straight KLR frame to sell. Would be an interesting mash-up.

Not as easy a process as you would think to cut and weld a motorcycle chassis ... :shifty:

Easy to get done ... :yes: but ... The "System" ... has other ideas ... :yes:

It would then it would require LVV Certification after the welding was done. And the person that did the welding ... would need to show they were qualified to do the welding.

There are enough "Hoops" to jump through in the official process already ... with using just a "Donor" chassis ... :blink:

[FJRider]

I've looked everywhere I can think of for a roadworthy DR650 frame. I'm really surprised that they are not readily available because it is an incredibly popular bike in NZ (and elsewhere). Or I have been looking under the wrong street light. So, I'm looking for advise about who is likely to have a DR650 frame available.

Have you contacted any wreckers ??

[pete376403]

Not as easy a process as you would think to cut and weld a motorcycle chassis ... :shifty:

Easy to get done ... :yes: but ... The "System" ... has other ideas ... :yes:

It would then it would require LVV Certification after the welding was done. And the person that did the welding ... would need to show they were qualified to do the welding.

There are enough "Hoops" to jump through in the official process already ... with using just a "Donor" chassis ... :blink:

That really depends on whether you wanted to inform the system that welding had taken place, doesn't it?

I did get certification done on a couple of items I had welded. Competency of the welder wasn't questioned , and the testing and certification provided wasn't that expensive

[pete376403]

Not as easy a process as you would think to cut and weld a motorcycle chassis ... :shifty:

Easy to get done ... :yes: but ... The "System" ... has other ideas ... :yes:

It would then it would require LVV Certification after the welding was done. And the person that did the welding ... would need to show they were qualified to do the welding.

There are enough "Hoops" to jump through in the official process already ... with using just a "Donor" chassis ... :blink:

That really depends on whether you want to inform the system that welding has taken place, doesn't it? A competent welder should be able to make joins that don't scream "a budgie perched here" . Anyway when is the last time a WoF inspection included checking the frame structure that closely?

FWIW I have had a couple of welded components tested and certified. The competency of the welder wasn't called into consideration and the testing and subsequent certificate was not too expensive or time consuming.

[FJRider]

That really depends on whether you want to inform the system that welding has taken place, doesn't it? A competent welder should be able to make joins that don't scream "a budgie perched here" . Anyway when is the last time a WoF inspection included checking the frame structure that closely?

FWIW I have had a couple of welded components tested and certified. The competency of the welder wasn't called into consideration and the testing and subsequent certificate was not too expensive or time consuming.

Times have changed ... Having the personal authority to issue a WOF is for some an asset their livelihood depends on. ANY issue that might place that ability in doubt is carefully managed.

And what check are made ... would depend on the bike's need for Re-vin or WOF ... or one tester "needing" to ask questions as to what is required to fulfill "Policy" as they see's it ...

I have had obvious welding ignored in the past ... as they knew me ... and knew who I would have got to do the welding (The quality of welding was obvious). Such was life in a small town. I doubt if that would ever occur again. Even in the same circumstances ... and with same people.

[FJRider]

That really depends on whether you wanted to inform the system that welding had taken place, doesn't it?

I did get certification done on a couple of items I had welded. Competency of the welder wasn't questioned , and the testing and certification provided wasn't that expensive

Trying to HIDE such things can (sometimes) be more detrimental than helpful at times. Especially if a weld fails (as it may do in an accident). Even if the weld failure has nothing to do with the cause of the accident.

Hardly a policy I'd recommend. Or encourage in this day and age.

Personal choice I guess ..

[rupert]

Thanks for the suggestions. I appreciate the support. I have contacted every wrecker I can think of. I did get a response from one in Wellington but he sold the frame to someone else almost immediately after contacting me... I did check about welding on the frame with the certifier. He was very clear that welding would not be accepted on the frame, unless it was done by the factory. He also said that it was usual to check the frame for any change in type/colour of paint which may be covering up welding or beating into shape. So,...I'm still looking for the elusive DR650 frame, somewhere in someone's shed, probably getting a gentle coat of antique rust.

[F5 Dave]

I think there would be heaps of restored bikes with powder coated frames

[Toocs]

There's a fella in Tasmania wrecking a 2004 DR. https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/brighton/motorcycles/wrecking-yz-yzf-cr-crf-wr-drz-kxf-rm-rmz-ktm-gas-gas-klx/1257983428

[nzspokes]

Still looking for a DR650 frame. Everyone must be holding onto their frames/running gear in case they get a replacement motor for the one that died. DR650 must be one of the most common bikes in NZ but very hard to find a frame in good condition.

There is a frame for sale on the NZ Dr650 page on FB with rego.

[Stylo]

Just picked up a DR650 . 2015 and only 1600 kms from new. It's a new bike. Don't know much about them to be honest.

Had some money spent on it though, big tank, forks and shock rebuilt. Renthal bars , GSXR1000 pipe. New seat. Bar warmers, Carb has been upgraded. Pissing down here so I can't say how it goes at this stage.

Looks like footpeg lowering mod is something I'll look at , I'm 5'9.

Last big 4t I had was a TT600. That was a while ago.

[F5 Dave]

Sounds like most of the essential things are done.

Suspension however will be the most important upgrade. Rebuilt to std specs will better than worn out, but, and I'm no expert on these things, but have had to sit through long conversations when away with mates who have several.

We have a local guy here who does wonders, but in chch Linton at DAS will be your best port of call. He's a great guy but will talk the legs off a table.

[Stylo]

Sounds like most of the essential things are done.

Suspension however will be the most important upgrade. Rebuilt to std specs will better than worn out, but, and I'm no expert on these things, but have had to sit through long conversations when away with mates who have several.

We have a local guy here who does wonders, but in chch Linton at DAS will be your best port of call. He's a great guy but will talk the legs off a table.

Yep. Linton has done the work on the forks and the shock on my bike. He knows what he's doing for sure. He can talk, but a nice guy nonetheless.