The DR650 thread

[NordieBoy]

To who maybe interested...
the best bash plate system I have seen...
& seems like a good buy...for whats included...

https://tciproductsusa.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=144_166_185&products_id=569

Google "Rock Hard Rally Gear bash plate dr650"

272464

[pete-blen]

Google "Rock Hard Rally Gear bash plate dr650"

272464


Nice..& only $813.00 NZ plus shiping...
don't know how he makes any $ on them...:crazy:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=806155

[NordieBoy]

Nice..& only $813.00 NZ plus shiping...
don't know how he makes any $ on them...:crazy:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=806155

But they are nice :2thumbsup

Makes them for differing KTM's too.

[cruza]

Thoughts please .
Done procycle carb kit (CV) airbox and open pipe . mixture screw 1 1/2 out .

Runs good pulls well . short idle ...pulls away fine

long idle ...lights etc , dies when go to pull away , unless I blip thottle , then it pulls away sweet.

Thought it may have been rich.... lowered needle until boderline lean , still does it
Leaned mixture screw , still does it . Richen mixture screw ...still does it

Shut butterfly on exhaust a bit ...still does it .

scratching my head

[NordieBoy]

Thoughts please .
Done procycle carb kit (CV) airbox and open pipe . mixture screw 1 1/2 out .

Runs good pulls well . short idle ...pulls away fine

long idle ...lights etc , dies when go to pull away , unless I blip thottle , then it pulls away sweet.

Thought it may have been rich.... lowered needle until boderline lean , still does it
Leaned mixture screw , still does it . Richen mixture screw ...still does it

Shut butterfly on exhaust a bit ...still does it .

scratching my head

Float level?
What needle clip?

[cruza]

Float level?
What needle clip?

Checked float level after putting 150 main jet in , seemed fine
3rd clip on needle

tried 2nd from top...borderline lean . And noticed no change when tried 4th clip from top , maybe just not quite as crisp on throttle

Anyway thats the end of it , was getting it as good as i could with cv to do comparsion when I fitted tm40.

Just putting tm40 in now .

[Phreaky Phil]

Checked float level after putting 150 main jet in , seemed fine
3rd clip on needle

tried 2nd from top...borderline lean . And noticed no change when tried 4th clip from top , maybe just not quite as crisp on throttle

Anyway thats the end of it , was getting it as good as i could with cv to do comparsion when I fitted tm40.

Just putting tm40 in now .My guess is it's a shade lean at idle. Richen it a bit on the mixture screw a bit. I've noticed my DR likes to be a bit rich at idle.

[NordieBoy]

Just putting tm40 in now .

That'll do it too :2thumbsup

[cruza]

That'll do it too :2thumbsup

unbelievable difference , alot smoother and power hits a any revs as soon as throttle is opened.
If only they came ex factory with a tm40.

[NordieBoy]

If only they came ex factory with a tm40.

The FCR 39 MX is even moar betterer...
Closed throttle enrichment (less popping on the overrun), rollers on the slide (lasts longer), baffled float bowel (good at high speed over whoops).

The FCR is for people who like to fiddle. It's very adjustable.
The TM is for people who just want it to work.

[humphrt]

Balclutha to chch in 5 hours and 1 serious case of monkey butt. The 650 has quite a plank for a seat. I suppose I should just harden up and get used to it. Would love a better carb too. Something that'll pull longer gearing happily

[Drew206]

I am interested in getting some sort of screen for my DR and thought I should get some recommendations from you guys first before I go spending my hard earned on something that ends up being crap :brick:

[Eddieb]

Make one. There's a template going round with a design that can be made up cheaply and works well. I'm sure Nordie or someone can post it soon. I thought I had a copy but can't find it.

While you're at it can you make me 2 as well? I'm willing to pay someone for their efforts and am shit at making stuff like that.

[Buyasta]

unbelievable difference , alot smoother and power hits a any revs as soon as throttle is opened.
If only they came ex factory with a tm40.

Is the TM40 installation pretty straightforward?.. I picked up a DR650 on Monday, and eventually when I can afford it, I was thinking of chucking a TM40 on it.
I've got absolutely no mechanical experience though, up until now the only things I'd done on previous bikes was replace batteries and bulbs, and adjust and lube the chain.
Since getting the DR I've removed the upper roller and loctited a grub screw in it's place, disabled the clutch switch, and whipped off the tank so I could rotate the carb around far enough to get a screwdriver at the fuel screw, as it was running far too lean. I found that all easy enough, but even such trivial stuff was covering entirely new ground for me, so I'm unsure if I'd be able to handle the carb swap.
There's plenty of other stuff I want to do first, like a replacement/reupholstered seat, Vapor and motard wheels, and stiffer shock and fork springs, so it'll probably be quite some time before I can afford a TM40 kit anyway, but I am a little curious as to how complicated the install process is.

[Waipukbiker]

I am very interested in getting hold of a screen template as well if there is one around somewhere.

Thanks

[pomgolian]

Me too but most look crap especially the ones that bolt to the handlebars, best looking one so far is

273276

http://www.screensforbikes.com/gallery/suzuki/dr-650/ and seems to have good reports,

So who has the template & who can make them ?

[NordieBoy]

I am very interested in getting hold of a screen template as well if there is one around somewhere.

Thanks

The "Official" Bama Fairing by fmlstewart on AdvRider...

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/oXMrd7EylCw" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/MK4MBaol2uw" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

[JATZ]

I got the template from pikey which worked really well. I can email it maybe, if I can find it on the computer.
$20 worth of perspex and a bit of shed time and it works o.k.
I was looking at some outfit in Aus for a screen but it's more satisfying making one. There's a pic of it in this thread somewhere

[NordieBoy]

I've got a template (on paper) and enough white rubbish bin plastic to draw one up and post it flat so you just have to bend it up...

Same material as this one...
<img height=640 src=http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/TT350/20110507%20Screening/slides/20110509-105540-0002.jpg>

[cruza]

Is the TM40 installation pretty straightforward?.. I picked up a DR650 on Monday, and eventually when I can afford it, I was thinking of chucking a TM40 on it.
I've got absolutely no mechanical experience though, up until now the only things I'd done on previous bikes was replace batteries and bulbs, and adjust and lube the chain.
Since getting the DR I've removed the upper roller and loctited a grub screw in it's place, disabled the clutch switch, and whipped off the tank so I could rotate the carb around far enough to get a screwdriver at the fuel screw, as it was running far too lean. I found that all easy enough, but even such trivial stuff was covering entirely new ground for me, so I'm unsure if I'd be able to handle the carb swap.
There's plenty of other stuff I want to do first, like a replacement/reupholstered seat, Vapor and motard wheels, and stiffer shock and fork springs, so it'll probably be quite some time before I can afford a TM40 kit anyway, but I am a little curious as to how complicated the install process is.

pretty straight forward, tinkered around with idle jetting and needle last 2 weeks fine tuning to my bike. backed off pumper to smooth out power delivery . No major headaches, removing and refitting carb a breeze.

Just waiting on back spring for shock now...... out of stock and on back order

[cruza]

Is the TM40 installation pretty straightforward?.. I picked up a DR650 on Monday, and eventually when I can afford it, I was thinking of chucking a TM40 on it.
I've got absolutely no mechanical experience though, up until now the only things I'd done on previous bikes was replace batteries and bulbs, and adjust and lube the chain.
Since getting the DR I've removed the upper roller and loctited a grub screw in it's place, disabled the clutch switch, and whipped off the tank so I could rotate the carb around far enough to get a screwdriver at the fuel screw, as it was running far too lean. I found that all easy enough, but even such trivial stuff was covering entirely new ground for me, so I'm unsure if I'd be able to handle the carb swap.
There's plenty of other stuff I want to do first, like a replacement/reupholstered seat, Vapor and motard wheels, and stiffer shock and fork springs, so it'll probably be quite some time before I can afford a TM40 kit anyway, but I am a little curious as to how complicated the install process is.

buy a extended mixture screw........makes idle mixture adjustment easy and toolless

[Drew206]

That looks all right Nordie and is the sort of thing I am after, may have to give it a try next weekend. What did you use for material? A rubbish bin? I think I would like purspex better however I don't have the tools required for heating and bending atm :weep:

[pete-blen]

That looks all right Nordie and is the sort of thing I am after, may have to give it a try next weekend. What did you use for material? A rubbish bin? I think I would like purspex better however I don't have the tools required for heating and bending atm :weep:

Polycabonate "lexan" dosn't require heat to bend it.... a sheet metal hand folder..
it dosn't brake like purspex... If yer get thown into it it won't crack into
long pointy shards like purpex can..
only need it 2mm thick..
All in all its a lot safer than purpex...

[NordieBoy]

That looks all right Nordie and is the sort of thing I am after, may have to give it a try next weekend. What did you use for material? A rubbish bin? I think I would like purspex better however I don't have the tools required for heating and bending atm :weep:

A special rubbish bin.
Took about a week of searching to find the right one.

Turned out to be identical to the one fmlstewart in the US used...

You can get 2 screens and 2 sets of handguard extensions out of one...

No heat involved, only cold bent mine.

<img wigth=480 src=http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/TT350/20110507%20Screening/slides/20110508-123528-0001.jpg>

<img wigth=480 src=http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/TT350/20120824%20New%20lights/slides/20120824-170434.jpg>

[Transalper]

A special rubbish bin.
Took about a week of searching to find the right one.

Turned out to be identical to the one fmlstewart in the US used...

Come on man.... save us some work, what shop sells them? ~$$?
Been thinking about trying that kind of thing out for the WR.

[NordieBoy]

Come on man.... save us some work, what shop sells them? ~$$?
Been thinking about trying that kind of thing out for the WR.

Mitre10 did back then...

$30

I go for the good stuff.

It cost the guy in Alabama about $5us :facepalm:

[pete-blen]

easy removeable screen...
pics from ADV rider

[Jantar]

There are two DR650s I'm tossing up between.

One is 2006 with 18,000 km on the clock and is pretty standard. The owner has taken all the adventure riding stuff like large tank, bash plate. etc off and put the origional tank etc back on, so the bike is very much in tidy origional condition.
The other is 2008 with 20,000 km on the clock, and while still in tidy condition it has been used as intended. There is a small indentation in the tank that isn't at all noticeable untill you sight along the tank in direct sunshine. The bash plate (Ross Hay special) is included. This bike would probably be my first choice except for one question. The muffler has been replaced with a DZR400 exhaust and has been opened out. The bike has not been rejetted. When I took it for a test ride I noticed that it continuously backfired on the the overun. Is this normal for this type of exhaust mod? Will rejetting help prevent that backfiring?

Any advice will be appreciated.

[NordieBoy]

When I took it for a test ride I noticed that it continuously backfired on the the overun. Is this normal for this type of exhaust mod? Will rejetting will help prevent that backfiring?

Any advice will be appreciated.

The DR's BST40 carb doesn't have a coasting enrichener so it does backfire. Does it even with the stock pipe, it's just quieter.

A DynoJet kit, ignoring their instructions and opening the airbox top up would do wonders.

[Drew206]

Thanks a lot Nordie and others for input. :niceone:

Here are a couple of shot of my first attempt at making the screen and I think it has turned out aright. Took all of 1/2 am hour and $35 worth of material. Looking forward to trying it on a ride very soon.

[NordieBoy]

Thanks a lot Nordie and others for input. :niceone:

Here are a couple of shot of my first attempt at making the screen and I think it has turned out aright. Took all of 1/2 am hour and $35 worth of material. Looking forward to trying it on a ride very soon.

If you get some turbulence, open the bottom up like my TT one. The extra air file helps heaps.

Try it out to Hori bay.

[Jantar]

........
The other is 2008 with 20,000 km on the clock, and while still in tidy condition it has been used as intended. ......


The DR's BST40 carb doesn't have a coasting enrichener so it does backfire. Does it even with the stock pipe, it's just quieter.

A DynoJet kit, ignoring their instructions and opening the airbox top up would do wonders.

Picked it up today. :D

[Buyasta]

Picked it up today. :D

Congrats!.. Glad to see that me snapping up that other cheaper one before you could buy it didn't stand in the way of you picking one up.
Also if it's any consolation, My one pretty much refuses run, so you're probably better off. :(



When I first got it, it had a fairly large hole in the throttle response - you'd twist it and it'd lag a bit before picking up, and TigerTim, who'd checked it out for me, said it was probably running a bit lean, so I wound the fuel screw all the way in, then out 1 1/2 turns, as I'd read that was generally about the right spot.
After that it seemed to be running just fine, aside from being a little reluctant to start, and I managed to get about 450-500km of trouble-free riding.
Then one day when I went to go to work on it, the throttle pull cable came off at the carb end, so I whipped off the tank and reattached it, and rode in to work, with the bike refusing to idle properly and stalling every time I closed the throttle completely. I then spent a few hours playing with the throttle idle screw, and I'd get it idling just fine, only for it to then decide that after riding for a few minutes it'd changed its mind and it was going to start stalling again. At that point I played around with the fuel screw again, and got it to a point where it seemed to be idling fine 99% of the time, but was mostly fine, and I rode another 100-150km on it.
Then a day later I rode from my house to the petrol station about 2.5km away to fill up, and on the way there it was running mostly ok, aside from refusing to idle again, but as soon as I'd filled up and started heading home, it decided it was about through being co-operative. It started to feel a little like it was thinking about dying on me - the revs and power just dropping away briefly, then coming back up, so I gave it a little more throttle in the hopes of making it home before it died, at which point it began surging like crazy, and eventually died completely about 50-100m from home.

While it's bloody difficult because it doesn't have an extended fuel screw, and my selection of tools pretty much consists of the toolkit off the bike, a few extra screwdrivers, and a driver with a bunch of screwdriver bits, I've played around with the fuel screw some more, and have not since been able to get the damn thing to start.
I'm fairly mechanically inexperienced, so I'm not sure, but I think the problem probably comes down to either an issue with the choke cable being pinched by the tank, causing it to run too rich, the jetting being a bit off (It's a US bike, the guy I bought it from had bought it in the US and rode it across the states, then imported it to NZ, where I don't think he ever actually rode it), or the carb being dirty - when TigerTim took it for a test ride, he got about a km before it died and refused to start, so he pushed it back to the guys house, where they removed the fuel filter, which had clogged. I've taken a look, and it looks like the seller forgot to actually put the filter back in, so sediment in the tank may have made it into the carb and blocked the jets or something.

I decided I'd try to kill three birds with one Procycle order - get some fuel filters to prevent any further fuel sediment issues, get the engine mounted remote choke kit so the choke cable wouldn't receive interference from the tank, and the procycle jet kit - I'd clean the carb when I installed it, hopefully get it jetted right, and it comes with an extended fuel screw.
I'd always been hoping to get a TM40 kit for it eventually though, and a friend of the family is coming to NZ from America in January, so I'm hopefully going to buy the TM40 kit, get it shipped to them, and get them to bring it in their luggage, as the final landed cost would have been 1/4th shipping and GST + related fees.
I'll be getting it from Kientech rather than Procycle, because his is a bit cheaper and comes with the big tank choke kit which is an extra $35 from Procycle. Anyway, he sends them prejetted, but I imagine some adjustment may be necessary, so I'm wondering what sort of jetting other people running the TM40 with modified airbox are running?.. I haven't actually modified my airbox yet, but I plan on doing it when I install the new carb.

When I had another go at getting the bike going a couple of days ago, I noticed that even though I'd filled up the bike and made it about 2.5km before it died, the tank was down to maybe 2/3rds full, and had significantly more missing than it should. I'd read on Procycle that with the non-stock fuel petcocks that aren't vacuum operated, you have to turn them off when you're not using the bike, because if the float valve leaks, fuel can run through the carb into the engine crankcase. I'm not sure if my fuel petcock is the standard one that comes with the IMS tank, or if it's some other replacement petcock, but it's definitely not vacuum operated - it's got a fuel line coming off it and nothing else - and I'm guessing that missing fuel has probably ended up in the crankcase. I'm assuming that means even if I could get it to start, I really don't want to ride it until I've changed the oil, but do I just do a normal oil change, or do I need to go a bit further to flush any fuel out?

Sorry about the rather long explanation and many questions, but I'd definitely appreciate any advice anyone has on getting it sorted out. I already had to borrow some money to get the bike in the first place, and might have to borrow a little more to cover the carb kit, so while I will take it to a mechanic to get it sorted out if I absolutely have to, I'd much rather do it myself - in addition to not really being able to afford it, I'd like to learn this stuff.

[NordieBoy]

Bring it up. I'll have a look at it.




:devil2::shifty:

[MikeJ]

One thing to try...make sure the choke is returning properly. The cable gets water in it and goes dry and partially corrodes. Choke gets used and seems to return but doesnt fully, hence the rough idling/cutting out. Dont get too vigorous with removing cable from the carb...the collar nut holding the cable into the carb is plastic.

[Jantar]

...., so I wound the fuel screw all the way in, then out 1 1/2 turns, as I'd read that was generally about the right spot.
After that it seemed to be running just fine, aside from being a little reluctant to start, and I managed to get about 450-500km of trouble-free riding......

I suspect that fuel screw you've been playing with is only adjusting the mixture at idle. See http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm for an exploded view of the carb. It sounds to me like it could be float level, or a clogged filter (item 24 in parts view).

[Buyasta]

I suspect that fuel screw you've been playing with is only adjusting the mixture at idle. See http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm for an exploded view of the carb. It sounds to me like it could be float level, or a clogged filter (item 24 in parts view).

According to the BST-40 Bible on ADVrider, it controls the fuel mix up to about 1/4 throttle.

Just going by my gut, I think some of my problems have been caused by the choke cable - at one point when trying to get it to run it smelled like it was dumping a bunch of unburnt fuel in the exhaust, but since fiddling around with the choke cable, I don't think it's doing that anymore.
Now I suspect it is probably a clogged jet or something in the carb - I'm going to pull it off and take it apart and give it a good clean, hopefully that'll fix my issues.

But either way, I'll get the TM40 kit if I can get that friend to bring it over - avoiding paying another 1/3rd of the price just in shipping and GST + the other stupid fees they add at the same time is too good an opportunity to pass up.

[Eddieb]

According to the BST-40 Bible on ADVrider, it controls the fuel mix up to about 1/4 throttle.

Just going by my gut, I think some of my problems have been caused by the choke cable - at one point when trying to get it to run it smelled like it was dumping a bunch of unburnt fuel in the exhaust, but since fiddling around with the choke cable, I don't think it's doing that anymore.
Now I suspect it is probably a clogged jet or something in the carb - I'm going to pull it off and take it apart and give it a good clean, hopefully that'll fix my issues.

But either way, I'll get the TM40 kit if I can get that friend to bring it over - avoiding paying another 1/3rd of the price just in shipping and GST + the other stupid fees they add at the same time is too good an opportunity to pass up.

If the bike is still running the US jetting for US ethanol fuel then it's quite possibly too rich on pure NZ fuel. A few of us have had similiar issues using US recommended jetting in the FCR39 carbs.

[NordieBoy]

I suspect that fuel screw you've been playing with is only adjusting the mixture at idle. See http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm for an exploded view of the carb. It sounds to me like it could be float level, or a clogged filter (item 24 in parts view).


According to the BST-40 Bible on ADVrider, it controls the fuel mix up to about 1/4 throttle.

mx_rob found it affected fuelling up to about 5,000rpm when he was playing with his wide band a/f meter.

[Buyasta]

If the bike is still running the US jetting for US ethanol fuel then it's quite possibly too rich on pure NZ fuel. A few of us have had similiar issues using US recommended jetting in the FCR39 carbs.

Unfortunately there's not really anything I can do about that without new jets and needle.
The US model uses a different needle with only one clip position, so I can't alter that, and I don't have any spare jets. Originally I was going to get the Procycle jet kit, but since I'm getting the TM40 kit instead, there's really no point.
While it may not be possible to get it running ideally on the current jets and needle, it was running fairly well for a while, so I'm pretty sure the problem is either the lack of fuel filter, or the choke getting jammed partially on.



I just finished disassembling the carb, and the top half, where the slide is, was a little dirty, but nowhere near as much as in the pictures in the BST-40 bible, but the bottom half, where the float sits had quite a bit of sediment in it, so I'm hopeful it might run a bit better after I give it a good clean and reassemble it.

I'll leave the whole lot soaking in Kerosene overnight, and then give it a good clean with some more kero and some q-tips tomorrow.

If fuel has gotten into my crankcase though, I'm guessing I don't want to run the engine until I've given it an oil change?.. I'll have to order an inline fuel filter and an oil filter tomorrow, and pick up some oil.

[NordieBoy]

Unfortunately there's not really anything I can do about that without new jets and needle.
The US model uses a different needle with only one clip position, so I can't alter that, and I don't have any spare jets.
If fuel has gotten into my crankcase though, I'm guessing I don't want to run the engine until I've given it an oil change?.. I'll have to order an inline fuel filter and an oil filter tomorrow, and pick up some oil.

raise the needle with a small washer.

Do a sniff test on the oil. You'll soon find if it's got petrol in it.

[Buyasta]

So yesterday I cleaned the carb and put it back on the bike. The battery was quite flat so I'm not sure if I've sorted it or not, but it did sound a bit more promising while the battery still had enough charge to turn it over.
My friend is coming over today and bringing back my battery charger which he'd been borrowing, so I should know tomorrow. :)


raise the needle with a small washer.

Do a sniff test on the oil. You'll soon find if it's got petrol in it.

I took off the oil filler cap and gave it a sniff, it definitely smelled pretty strongly of petrol.
So I'll change the oil before riding it again, but how big an issue is it, having fuel in the engine oil?.. Should I wait till I've changed the oil before trying to start it again?.. If it's OK to start it, can I also let it idle for a couple of minutes to warm the oil up a bit to make changing it easier?
I've never actually done an oil change before, but I'm sure I can figure it out. I was wondering though, where do you guys go to buy your oil?.. Just the local bike shop, or Super Cheap, or where?.. Don't worry, I'm not going to ask what type to put in it, I've read a coupla oil threads. ;)

As far as the washer on the needle, that'll only help if it's running too lean and I want to richen it a bit though, right?.. I think if it's off in either direction, it's probably running too lean.
Either way, it doesn't matter too much, I've just ordered the TM-40 carb kit, and the person who's bringing it over from the states will arrived in the first few days of January, so while I'll keep playing around with the stock carb as a learning experience and for fun for the rest of the month, it doesn't really matter if I never get it running 100% right.

[NordieBoy]

Change the oil first, especially if it's above the sight glass...

[Bass]

Just to change the subject for a moment - the dreaded DR 3rd gear whine of imminent death, is it continuous or only when 3rd gear is engaged?

(Obviously I have a reason for asking)

[NordieBoy]

Just to change the subject for a moment - the dreaded DR 3rd gear whine of imminent death, is it continuous or only when 3rd gear is engaged?

(Obviously I have a reason for asking)

Only under load, in 3rd.

Mine has been whining for 80,000km now...

[Night Falcon]

Only under load, in 3rd.

Mine has been whining for 80,000km now...

According to some folk on ADVrider, you can console yourself if your 3rd gear explodes with the knowledge that most DR's won't experience this phanominom...panominominon....phanomininminom...er um, problem :weird:

[Bass]

Only under load, in 3rd.

Mine has been whining for 80,000km now...

Right, it's not that then thanks - the search continues.

[Bass]

phanominom...panominominon....phanomininminom...:w eird:

Quick, give it some choke and it might start!

[badlieutenant]

Hopefully someone here will be able to give me a little info, thanks in advance if you can.

OK, so I did the rm250 (88) forks swap. Said forks have been rebuilt and Im rather looking forward to forks with compression/rebound adjustment. However, I need to know a couple of things to get the setup sorted. On installation of front wheel which is not stock but a 17inch off of a rgv (i think)I noticed a couple of things.

The front wheel was off center and the forks appear to have the slightest outwards flare to them. It was very hard to tell using calipers but still....
But either way the wheel is 10mm off center. Easy fix would be to make new collars and shift wheel over 10mm but the rotor rivets will hit the fork leg before then.

The other ars ache is the caliper adapter I have made already which is awesome, except the only disc I can find that is close in dimension with less of an offset (10mm not 17.5mm) ) is 298mm in diameter. The caliper is made to accommodate a stock 290mm rotor. The smaller offset will allow the wheel to shift over the crucial mm.
Anyhoo, my question is what were the rm250 (88) stock axle length (inside fork to inside, or outside would do as well) and Is it ok to lathe 8mm off my disc ? or does someone know off another place to get disc's from (the only one I have found so far is this one at metalgear (http://metalgear.com.au/mgear-brake-disc-front-leftright-p-6301.html)
(oh just in case someone suggests a flat rotor I did look into it but Im pretty sure the caliper will hit the spokes :/ maybe flat disc with packer ?

In advance, Cheers

[NordieBoy]

MAy have been easier to stick the DR donk in the RM frame :scooter:

[badlieutenant]

yer, Im not sure it would be easier. Hangon! is this the king of farkle trying to tell me to not farkle with my DR? I think your been ironic :D
oh well, Ill look for a rotor somewhere between 290 and 320 with an offset of 10mm and make a new caliper.

[NordieBoy]

yer, Im not sure it would be easier. Hangon! is this the king of farkle trying to tell me to not farkle with my DR? I think your been ironic :D
oh well, Ill look for a rotor somewhere between 290 and 320 with an offset of 10mm and make a new caliper.

I'd make a new rotor from a street sign, but that's just me.

[pete-blen]

I'd make a new rotor from a street sign, but that's just me.


yer need armco..wave rotors are in now...
:facepalm:

[badlieutenant]

I'd make a new rotor from a street sign, but that's just me.
The stick i was jamming between the forks and the tyre as a brake has worn thru. Besides everyone knows street signs are only good for bash plates and gaskets :yes:

[Aslan]

hi - I should know the answer having changed the oil on my DR a # of times - what size socket is the correct size to fit the stock drain plug please?

The 17mm I'm using seems too big :(

thanks in advance

[Eddieb]

hi - I should know the answer having changed the oil on my DR a # of times - what size socket is the correct size to fit the stock drain plug please?

The 17mm I'm using seems too big :(

thanks in advance


The DR650 site says 14mm

http://dr650.zenseeker.net/Lubrication.htm

[Steelie]

17mm on mine, just checked.

[Buyasta]

17mm on mine too.


Today I got two packages - the new socket set, and oil + filter I'd ordered, so I did an oil change. I knew a fair bit of fuel had leaked into the crankcase, so I was expecting to get maybe 3l of fluid out of it, but wound up getting 7.3l, so a full 5l of fuel had leaked through. :eek5:
You can be damn sure I'll be careful about turning my fuel tap off after that, it just kept coming and coming - by the end I was beginning to worry the 8l pan I'd grabbed from Supercheap wasn't going to be big enough.

[Aslan]

Eddieb, Buyasta and Steelie - thanks for you responses - I believe it is 17mm thanks - mechanic tells me get a quality 6 point socket to avoid burring the edges

[R650R]

Eddieb, Buyasta and Steelie - thanks for you responses - I believe it is 17mm thanks - mechanic tells me get a quality 6 point socket to avoid burring the edges

Sump plug should never be done up tight enough for it to be a problem anyway. They are a very short head but as long as you make sure your nicely seated on the nut (ie not at a slight angle, even cheap tools should do the job ok. I replaced mine with one of the rpocycle magnetic ones which has a bit more depth to the nuthead and drilled n lockwired it also which I've always done with my bikes as I like to change the oil often.

[Aslan]

Sump plug should never be done up tight enough for it to be a problem anyway. They are a very short head but as long as you make sure your nicely seated on the nut (ie not at a slight angle, even cheap tools should do the job ok. I replaced mine with one of the rpocycle magnetic ones which has a bit more depth to the nuthead and drilled n lockwired it also which I've always done with my bikes as I like to change the oil often.


thanks R650R - that's helpful - I can see Procycle plug is favoured by a number of folk - cheers S

[Waipukbiker]

Just wondering what the landed cost of the Vapour dash is from Procycle compared to buying it in NZ.
Also, Im unable to find the the dash unit for the above in NZ .

Thanks
Ross

[Box'a'bits]

Just wondering what the landed cost of the Vapour dash is from Procycle compared to buying it in NZ.
Also, Im unable to find the the dash unit for the above in NZ .

Thanks
Ross
This? (http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/electrics/auction-545734084.htm) on Trade Me.

I bought mine from Xtreme Wholesale (http://www.xtremewholesale.co.nz/) in Auckland. That was more cost effective than getting it shipped from the USA.

[Waipukbiker]

Thanks for that, Just had a look at the site, they are more expensive than "Bits for Bikes" and Cycletreads but at least they have the dashbourd unit. I suppose the advantage of Procycle is that the units are set up for the DR650 although not sure about the cables.

[Buyasta]

Just wondering what the landed cost of the Vapour dash is from Procycle compared to buying it in NZ.
Also, Im unable to find the the dash unit for the above in NZ .

Thanks
Ross

The cheapest place I could find for the Vapor + Dash was here:
Vapor (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vapor-Trail-Tech-Computer-Suzuki-DR650-DR-650-All-Years-NEW-/230888027890?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item35c1ffb6f2) Stealth (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vapor-Trail-Tech-Computer-Suzuki-DR650-DR-650-All-Years-Stealth-Black-NEW-/380538234701?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item5899d8a74d) Dash (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vapor-Vector-Striker-Trail-Tech-Motorcycle-Indicator-Dashboard-Mount-Kit-NEW-/380527460964?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item5899344264)
Also while I didn't look all that hard in NZ because the prices were quite high, none of the places seemed to carry the Vapor Stealth, only the standard Vapor.

[Box'a'bits]

The cheapest place I could find for the Vapor + Dash was here:
Vapor (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vapor-Trail-Tech-Computer-Suzuki-DR650-DR-650-All-Years-NEW-/230888027890?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item35c1ffb6f2) Stealth (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vapor-Trail-Tech-Computer-Suzuki-DR650-DR-650-All-Years-Stealth-Black-NEW-/380538234701?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item5899d8a74d) Dash (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vapor-Vector-Striker-Trail-Tech-Motorcycle-Indicator-Dashboard-Mount-Kit-NEW-/380527460964?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item5899344264)
Also while I didn't look all that hard in NZ because the prices were quite high, none of the places seemed to carry the Vapor Stealth, only the standard Vapor.
Just ask. Usually the resellers will get it in for you if they don't already hold stock

[Waipukbiker]

yeah, Ive checked out the main sites here like Bits for bikes etc and it may still end up cheaper out of the states, I like that Ebay price but will do some more looking. looking at a larger tank for it too which I will prob go for first.

[Box'a'bits]

Just make sure you are aware of the freight costs before making your final decision. To purchase directly from Trail tech the freight is :gob:. I suppose that is to make you buy thru the NZ resellers...

[Waipukbiker]

yup, and just when you think you have done well it totals over $400 and then GST and whatever else they decide on gets added on at the border

[R650R]

This is what I was mentioning yesterday Ross. From NZ Post and it sets up an American shipping address so you can take advantage of the free domestic shipping of some us suppliers then ship it here internationally from a freight agent at a lower cost. Haven't used it myself yet but a lot of guys on a NZ camera forum have recommended it that buy stuff from B&H, adorama etc. Worth a look.

http://www.nzpost.co.nz/products-services/online-shopping/youshop

[Waipukbiker]

Good to see you at the Classic Club yesterday mate, was a bloody good afternoon. Ive sent a couple of emails away to 2 other outfits in NZ that stock the vapour units for prices and also the dashbourds which I want as well. would prefer a unit that is already kitted up for the DR instead of a generic one but will see what happens.
The local Suzy shop here has been giving me some good discounts on stuff so will see what they can dig up as well.
Im starting to wean off the idea of a bigger tank because of cost, Im set up to carry an extra 5 ltrs anyway so the cost is hard to justify.

[fridayflash]

how was the classic club xmas do ross? kids didnt seem overly keen so i didnt come out
im with you on the big tank...i want one, but am used to carrying 5L which gives me
what the ims carries...and its free!

p.s hows our xr200a going?

[NordieBoy]

Would prefer a unit that is already kitted up for the DR instead of a generic one but will see what happens.

What's the difference?

[Waipukbiker]

Not actualy sure what the differance is but ive seen them advertised to specifically fit different models of bikes so I presume its the mounts plus maybe connections to suit a specific bikes wiring loom.

Yeah I wondered where you had got to Ed, was a great afternoon, heaps of bikes and people there.
There is a ride on sat 29th from BP Clive at 1pm, Dave wouldnt say where they are going but there will be a BBQ etc back at the club so hope to see you there

[Phreaky Phil]

What's the difference?

The one for the DR has the right size magnet bolt for the wheel sensor, other than that I think they are all the same. you have to do the wiring yourself, they arent quite a plug and play.

[Box'a'bits]

What's the difference?
Some come with a temp sensor - either for under the sparkplug, or into the coolant hose. But, yes, all very generic. Wiring up & bracketry you are expected to figure out for yourself. All relatively simple.

[R650R]

Should have thought of this yesterday Ross but haven't been on there for awhile. If you go onto DRRiders forum there's whole threads devoted to vapours and other DR goodies. Theres some good information in here for sure but a lot of its easier to find on drriders. http://drriders.com/

[Waipukbiker]

Cheers, will have a look

[NordieBoy]

Some come with a temp sensor - either for under the sparkplug, or into the coolant hose. But, yes, all very generic. Wiring up & bracketry you are expected to figure out for yourself. All relatively simple.

I used the spark plug temp sensor on the head oil line.

[bart]

Im starting to wean off the idea of a bigger tank because of cost, Im set up to carry an extra 5 ltrs anyway so the cost is hard to justify.

You'd be amazed at the difference between having the weight low and between your knees compared to high and behind you. Carrying a can sucks. Any static weight above seat height upsets the handling. You'd be better putting a couple of 3 litre cans in pannier bags.

I should know, I'm often carrying extra fuel for KTM riders....:shutup:

[Jantar]

This is what I was mentioning yesterday Ross. From NZ Post and it sets up an American shipping address so you can take advantage of the free domestic shipping of some us suppliers then ship it here internationally from a freight agent at a lower cost. Haven't used it myself yet but a lot of guys on a NZ camera forum have recommended it that buy stuff from B&H, adorama etc. Worth a look.

http://www.nzpost.co.nz/products-services/online-shopping/youshop

I had a look at that, and an item that was going to cost US$75 via USPS would have cost over $200 via NZ Post. I went with the USPS option.

[NordieBoy]

Oh hell, look what ProCycle is up to now...

A nice round 900cc :eek5:
275171

[pete376403]

Oh hell, look what ProCycle is up to now...

A nice round 900cc :eek5:
275171

Will the head flow enough for that? With the 705 KLR the inlet ports become the bottleneck.

[Waipukbiker]

You would have to look at the whole system if you did that mod, ie, air intake, larger valves( Procycle do a big valve head) carburation and exhaust. The whole lot has to balance out. There would be a bigger torque load on the whole drive train right through to the tyres.

[Waipukbiker]

Copied this off a DR650 face book group:

Rawley Macias
Fellow DR riders,

I need your input. How many of you would be interested in a fuel injection kit for a DR650 if it were readily available? I know Ecotron has a "kit" but I'm not sure how developed it is.

I design and work on unmanned aircraft for a living and am experienced in integrating fuel injection systems on carbureted engines. The ECU system I have in mind would have altitude compensation and would use O2 feedback for fined tuned mixture quality.

Is this something of interest to proceed on? How much would someone be willing to pay for a complete product like this?

Rawley

[Phreaky Phil]

Copied this off a DR650 face book group:

Rawley Macias
Fellow DR riders,

I need your input. How many of you would be interested in a fuel injection kit for a DR650 if it were readily available? I know Ecotron has a "kit" but I'm not sure how developed it is.

I design and work on unmanned aircraft for a living and am experienced in integrating fuel injection systems on carbureted engines. The ECU system I have in mind would have altitude compensation and would use O2 feedback for fined tuned mixture quality.

Is this something of interest to proceed on? How much would someone be willing to pay for a complete product like this?

RawleyThere was a thread going on DRRiders a while back and 3 guys were doing EFI conversions, one of them being MXRob who pioneered the FCR conversion. I seems to have died in recent times and I doubt the EFI would be much better than a well set up FCR, and certainly will require more engineering to make it fit. MXRobs one seemed to be looking pretty good but tuning it seemed reasonably complex.
I'll wait for the Suzuki to bring out an EFI DR650 :rofl: if I live that long !

[Waipukbiker]

I reckon. Im a firm believer in the principal of "KISS": Keep It Simple Stupid

[Jantar]

One of the reasons I picked the DR650 as my second bike is because of its simplicity and lack of computerised bits. That makes for easy diagnosis of any faults and the ability to carry out basic repairs in the middle of no-where.

[bart]

At what stage do you just go buy a KTM 690E? There's only so much you can do to a shitty DR650 before you're pissing money down the drain.

Love it for what it is. I love mine for the fact I can ride it to the max. Never do maintainance. Wash it twice a year (if it's lucky). I don't have to worry about stickers (I tore those off the day I bought it). Religiously do an oil change every 29th of February.

What I'm trying to say is it'll never be a Greyhound, just the dopey eyed Labrador that always comes back to lick you after you've kicked it in the guts for sniffing around the neighbours Chihuahua (yeah I checked the spelling).

Treat it like the 9K bike it is (or a little bit more with a few essential farkles), but at what stage do you change to something designed in the 21st century. ;)

[NordieBoy]

But at what stage do you change to something designed in the 21st century. ;)

In the 22nd century...

Hell, my '93 Nordwest was twin belt diven cam, water cooled, USD forked and 47hp from 558cc...

[bart]

In the 22nd century...

...

Too many beers last night. Surprised I knew what century I was in. :wacko:

Point is, it's an oversized farm bike, but it does most things fairly well.

[dino3310]

One of the reasons I picked the DR650 as my second bike is because of its simplicity and lack of computerised bits. That makes for easy diagnosis of any faults and the ability to carry out basic repairs in the middle of no-where.

the same reason why i love the XR, DR would be my second choice:yes:

[Waipukbiker]

Ok, A simple question, can the rear sprocket be reversed? (Ive never had one off)

[Box'a'bits]

Ok, A simple question, can the rear sprocket be reversed? (Ive never had one off)
Generally no. They use countersunk bolts

[Waipukbiker]

Thanks for that, and no, Im not trying to be cheap bastard.. lol Its for a "Damsel in distress" who is passing through the town for a short visit , she has a new chain but the rear sprocket is badly worn and it was a possible stop gap measure until a new one can be brought.
Ive got a spare front one here and Ive just realized that Murphy's law will probably apply in that its a 525 and her bikes probably been converted to 520. Will find out tomorrow.

[Waipukbiker]

I want to stiffen the front springs up without replacing the springs at this stage. Interested to see whats worked with other riders.
Go up a grade with the oil? Whats standard, 5 or 10 weight? Increase the oil volume? How much? Increase the spacer length? if so , How much. Im 100 KG and I want to put a 20 Ltr tank on when I can.

Cheers

[Eddieb]

I want to stiffen the front springs up without replacing the springs at this stage. Interested to see whats worked with other riders.
Go up a grade with the oil? Whats standard, 5 or 10 weight? Increase the oil volume? How much? Increase the spacer length? if so , How much. Im 100 KG and I want to put a 20 Ltr tank on when I can.

Cheers

15w in the front is fecken horrible, really jarry and harsh.

[NordieBoy]

I went to a 20% stiffer spring and Intiminators and I only weigh 87kg + 18L tank.

[Drew206]

Any one out there interested in a 04 DR650? or know someone who is looking for one. Thought I would put the word out before I put it on TradeMe.

Has the following
33000k's on the clock
20L Acerbis tank plus standard tank
GP Customs Bash Plate
Bark Busters
Micro front and rear indicators
Tail Tidy
2x racks. One small one and one large with pannier supports.
Near new MT21 on the front and 3/4 warn T63 on the back.
New front and rear sprockets
New D.I.D X-ring chain

[JATZ]

I want to stiffen the front springs up without replacing the springs at this stage. Interested to see whats worked with other riders.
Go up a grade with the oil? Whats standard, 5 or 10 weight? Increase the oil volume? How much? Increase the spacer length? if so , How much. Im 100 KG and I want to put a 20 Ltr tank on when I can.

Cheers
When I was about that weight I put (from memory) 80mm spacers in and I think it was 20w oil.
I had the spacers spun up by the local engineers for about $20. I think there's pics either here or on the jatz's thread. I found it best to take the bars off to put the caps back on,
I'm assuming you have a heavier spring in the rear ? The standard one's designed for an anorexic dwarf.

[pete-blen]

I want to stiffen the front springs up without replacing the springs at this stage. Interested to see whats worked with other riders.
Go up a grade with the oil? Whats standard, 5 or 10 weight? Increase the oil volume? How much? Increase the spacer length? if so , How much. Im 100 KG and I want to put a 20 Ltr tank on when I can.

Cheers

pre-load spacers on the top of the springs.... yer will need to play around with the length..

[Jantar]

Who are my opponents in this looming battle? http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=548606045

[Team Buffoon]

Is there anyone in NZ who is making racks for a DR? I am after a rear rack and something to stop my Andy Strapz soft panniers cooking on the exhaust or getting caught in the rear wheel. AUS$370 + P&P for Andy Strapz racks, US$210 + P&P for Wolfman from Procycle etc. Is there an enterprising Kiwi knocking anything up in the shed?

[Buyasta]

Woohoo, just got my TM40 fitted, seems to be running ok, although sadly I can't test ride it until I've chucked some fresh fuel line on there, as it's leaking a little more fuel than I'm comfortable with. Still, a quick trip to Supercheap in the morning and I should be ready to take it for a quick test ride. :D



Who are my opponents in this looming battle? http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=548606045

If you don't win that one, I've just bought myself a new black Acerbis tank, and once that arrives I'll have no further use for my old yellow IMS, so I'd be happy to sell it to you for cheaps if you can sort out transport.




On that note, has anyone had a go at painting their DR plastics, and if so, how did it go?
I've got that black Acerbis tank on the way, and I'm going to paint the plastics black as well, I'm just torn over whether to use Krylon Fusion, which I hear is the way to go for painting plastics, or do it in Plastidip so I can peel it off if I screw it up and want to have another go, or sell the bike and want to return it to OEM colours.

[Team Buffoon]

[QUOTE=Buyasta;1130460207]Woohoo, just got my TM40 fitted,


May I ask where you got the TM40 from and how much it was to your door including customs if from overseas?

[Jantar]

...On that note, has anyone had a go at painting their DR plastics, and if so, how did it go?
I've got that black Acerbis tank on the way, and I'm going to paint the plastics black as well, I'm just torn over whether to use Krylon Fusion, which I hear is the way to go for painting plastics, or do it in Plastidip so I can peel it off if I screw it up and want to have another go, or sell the bike and want to return it to OEM colours.

I had intended dying it a deep indigo as I know paint won't hold. This is the first I've heard of Plastidip and it looks like it will do nicely. Who stocks it?

[Buyasta]

May I ask where you got the TM40 from and how much it was to your door including customs if from overseas?

I got the one from Kientech.com although you can also get them from Procycle.us. I went with the Kientech one because it's a little cheaper and it comes with an extended choke cable, whereas I'd have had to buy one separately with the Procycle kit.
Shipping, GST and the customs inspection fee they charge you along with GST woulda bumped it up for a fair bit, but fortunately a family friend who lives in San Francisco was coming over for a visit, so I got it shipped to her and she brought it over in her checked luggage, so I just payed the $425 + $15 for shipping to San Francisco.


I had intended dying it a deep indigo as I know paint won't hold. This is the first I've heard of Plastidip and it looks like it will do nicely. Who stocks it?

I haven't actually bought any Plastidip myself, but I'm led to understand both Mitre 10 and Bunnings sometimes stock it, so presumably can order it in for you if they don't have it in stock, or otherwise there's one or two places selling it on Trademe.
It seems like a pretty good solution for everything but the tank - it dissolves when petrol lands on it, so while you could plastidip a tank, you'd be constantly touching up the area around the filler cap.

[Team Buffoon]

Ah the friend coming to visit, always an elegant option! Look forward to hearing how it goes.

[NordieBoy]

The ProCycle TM40 comes with an adaptor whereas the Keintech one clamps the air boot down on the slightly smaller than BST carb intake.

[Buyasta]

The ProCycle TM40 comes with an adaptor whereas the Keintech one clamps the air boot down on the slightly smaller than BST carb intake.

The Kientech also comes with adaptor rings installed, both ends are the same size as the BST, the air boot fits on perfectly.
Perhaps he's refined his kit since the earlier versions?

As far as I can tell, the only differences between them are that the Procycle one comes with a knob-type choke, so you need to buy the remote choke kit as well if you've got an aftermarket tank, and it comes with a range of jetting, whereas the Kientech comes with a remote choke cable pre-installed, and doesn't come with any extra jets.
I figured I could probably pick up extra jets from within NZ rather than needing to buy them from the US, and it'd most likely be less expensive than the price difference between the kits + cost of remote choke, so I went with the Kientech one.

[R650R]

On that note, has anyone had a go at painting their DR plastics, and if so, how did it go?
I've got that black Acerbis tank on the way, and I'm going to paint the plastics black as well, I'm just torn over whether to use Krylon Fusion, which I hear is the way to go for painting plastics, or do it in Plastidip so I can peel it off if I screw it up and want to have another go, or sell the bike and want to return it to OEM colours.

Searched Vinyl overlays after seeing something in a youtube vid... found this place in NZ http://www.sikfx.com/ could be an option for plastics...?

Thinking of using it to display some of my photo work on the GSXR...

[Buyasta]

I picked up some fresh fuel line this morning and chucked it on there, and just took it for a test ride, seems to be fuelling just fine, although I haven't done the airbox mod yet, and was running without the airbox side panel instead.
It definitely feels a lot nicer to ride now - better throttle response and it pulls much better lower in the rev range. I'm not sure what gearing the previous owner chucked on this, but with the stock carb I couldn't cruise at 100 in 5th gear because the revs were too low, so it'd just chug away, and didn't feel you had enough revs on until you were doing about 115-120, whereas now it cruises at 100 happily in 5th.


Searched Vinyl overlays after seeing something in a youtube vid... found this place in NZ http://www.sikfx.com/ could be an option for plastics...?

Thinking of using it to display some of my photo work on the GSXR...

Yeah, I imagine that'd work, but it'd also probably be fairly pricy.
I picked up a coupla cans of Plastidip for $30 apiece plus $5.50 shipping on Trademe, so it's a nice cheap option, and being able to just peel the whole thing off like vinyl if you want to remove it for any reason is rather convenient.

[Waipukbiker]

Prob all seen this but its interesting reading on DR650 tyres http://dr650.zenseeker.net/Tires.htm

[Team Buffoon]

Berg Briggs of BR Moto who developed the Wolfman Luggage racks has Generation One racks on clearance for US$150 as opposed to $224 for the Gen 2. He has quoted US$86 p&p via UPS to Auckland. They are also available for bikes other than a DR.

http://brmoto.com/br-moto-side-racks-dr650-gen-1-clearance-1.html

Gettem while they're hot.

[Buyasta]

The place I bought the PlastiDip from accidentally only sent me one can, and sent off the second one today, but since I had one, I figured I'd chuck a few coats on, and see how it went.
I've got a motard front fender on the way, so I was just doing the side panels and rear guard, and one can got me 1.5 coats - two on the outside and one on the inside.

Things I learned:

a Can Gun (http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/other/auction-550127235.htm) is freaking handy
Depending how thick your coats are and how many you're doing, it probably takes 3 cans to do a full set of plastics
I'm thoroughly incompetent when it comes to painting things

It was the first time I'd ever tried painting anything, so it was never going to go particularly well, but I wasn't quite prepared for how badly I managed to screw it up. I think I was laying each coat on quite a bit too heavy, and then I got the can a bit too close a few times, so in a couple of places it started to pool up a little.
As you can see on the side panel that I didn't screw up quite so much though, it looks pretty good when it's laid on fairly evenly.

Since I've already used up one can, I think I'll lay on a couple more coats once the second can arrives and throw them back on, and just wait till they need redoing anyway before I try and do a better job.

[GaZBur]

Hi DR650 guys. I am selling my motard wheels I used on my DR650. They would suit a lot of bikes but were specifically set up for the DR with spacers, disks and sprocket so you can whip out the axle and change them in less than half hour. Also 3 sets of tyres go with them.
My DR is sold as I can no longer race or ride gravel, the vibration kills me. Hope someone else can get as much fun out of them as I did.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=552500999
Still riding - strictly road and no racing allowed, got an old Ducati Monster 900 now.

[NordieBoy]

Hi DR650 guys. I am selling my motard wheels I used on my DR650. They would suit a lot of bikes but were specifically set up for the DR with spacers, disks and sprocket so you can whip out the axle and change them in less than half hour. Also 3 sets of tyres go with them.
My DR is sold as I can no longer race or ride gravel, the vibration kills me. Hope someone else can get as much fun out of them as I did.
Still riding - strictly road and no racing allowed, got an old Ducati Monster 900 now.

Who are you again?

:bleh:

At least you're still riding :niceone:

[Noote]

Has anybody fitted one of these kits, if so was it worth it?

[NordieBoy]

Has anybody fitted one of these kits, if so was it worth it?

I'd do it if I was doing the rings sometime.

Works well in conjunction with the WebCam 223 grind.

[cruza]

Just dumped a 2001 dr650 on trademe . nearly complete bike. Run a main bearing in engine last year , make awesome parts bike ......
Engine not too bad inside, but at 65km would need a Full rebuild too make it worthwhile $$$ .I chose too buy new bike and strip off adv gear on old one.

[GaZBur]

Who are you again?

:bleh:

At least you're still riding :niceone:

Hi Nordie

I am Gary from Dunedin. Used my DR650 for everything for several years. Motards, road racing, road and gravel hill climbs etc. Been to most of the tracks and Street races in the south, Burt Munrow, Greymouth and Methvin.
It was Methvin 2010 when I was clipped in a corner and put into a haybale on the old DR. Broke my neck(C1), skull(Occipital) and both wrists and spent a bit of time recovering. I can't race anymore as the Doctors won't clear me medically with MNZ!:no: I asked a couple of times but the second time I asked the surgeon he was not very polite back to me, no idea why he doesn't think its a good idea for me to get back on the track. My left arm is only a little shorter than my right now, not enough to notice in the corners.
I also can't ride dirt or gravel as the vibrations dont feel to good on the wrists which are reconstructed with titanium and a zillion wee screws.
Yep still riding, got back on the bike as soon as all the neck and wrist braces came off. Sold the DR650 and the FZR1000 race bike too!
Now a slow old Ducati rider.

[NordieBoy]

Hi Nordie

I am Gary from Dunedin. Used my DR650 for everything for several years. Motards, road racing, road and gravel hill climbs etc. Been to most of the tracks and Street races in the south, Burt Munrow, Greymouth and Methvin.
It was Methvin 2010 when I was clipped in a corner and put into a haybale on the old DR. Broke my neck(C1), skull(Occipital) and both wrists and spent a bit of time recovering. I can't race anymore as the Doctors won't clear me medically with MNZ!:no: I asked a couple of times but the second time I asked the surgeon he was not very polite back to me, no idea why he doesn't think its a good idea for me to get back on the track. My left arm is only a little shorter than my right now, not enough to notice in the corners.
I also can't ride dirt or gravel as the vibrations dont feel to good on the wrists which are reconstructed with titanium and a zillion wee screws.
Yep still riding, got back on the bike as soon as all the neck and wrist braces came off. Sold the DR650 and the FZR1000 race bike too!
Now a slow old Ducati rider.

Ahh, I remember now!

You should have said "slow old" to start with :devil2:

Bugger all that doctor stuff. I caught my shin on Gonzo's footpeg once and still have the scar. That was bad enough.

[Buddha#81]

Hi Nordie

I am Gary from Dunedin. Used my DR650 for everything for several years. Motards, road racing, road and gravel hill climbs etc. Been to most of the tracks and Street races in the south, Burt Munrow, Greymouth and Methvin.
It was Methvin 2010 when I was clipped in a corner and put into a haybale on the old DR. Broke my neck(C1), skull(Occipital) and both wrists and spent a bit of time recovering. I can't race anymore as the Doctors won't clear me medically with MNZ!:no: I asked a couple of times but the second time I asked the surgeon he was not very polite back to me, no idea why he doesn't think its a good idea for me to get back on the track. My left arm is only a little shorter than my right now, not enough to notice in the corners.
I also can't ride dirt or gravel as the vibrations dont feel to good on the wrists which are reconstructed with titanium and a zillion wee screws.
Yep still riding, got back on the bike as soon as all the neck and wrist braces came off. Sold the DR650 and the FZR1000 race bike too!
Now a slow old Ducati rider.

Hey Gary,

great to see you have mended (allbeit not 100%) and still out on a bike! Miss you at the track though!

[MXNUT]

Does anyone know where to purchase a new needle valve and seat for a DR650 with the standard BST 40 Carb.
About half way through the Dusty Butt the needle valve started to leak and even when stopped for 10-15 second fuel would start running out of carb overflow pipe.
Bike has IMS tank fitted so has had the vacuum fuel tap removed.

Went in to Suzuki dealer today and they said that needle valve and seat comes complete with the float assembly, none have been brought into NZ in the last 12 months or more so it is not currently priced.

Seems strange that they have not sold this part in the last 12 months in NZ considering the amount of DR650`S on the road, unless people are buying them elsewhere ???????

[ducatilover]

Hi chaps, has anyone got a neutral sender unit floating around? My DR motor has one, but some womble has taken the internals out of it...

[NordieBoy]

Does anyone know where to purchase a new needle valve and seat for a DR650 with the standard BST 40 Carb.
About half way through the Dusty Butt the needle valve started to leak and even when stopped for 10-15 second fuel would start running out of carb overflow pipe.
Bike has IMS tank fitted so has had the vacuum fuel tap removed.

Went in to Suzuki dealer today and they said that needle valve and seat comes complete with the float assembly, none have been brought into NZ in the last 12 months or more so it is not currently priced.

Seems strange that they have not sold this part in the last 12 months in NZ considering the amount of DR650`S on the road, unless people are buying them elsewhere ???????

Check with a KTM dealer.

[Phreaky Phil]

Procycle has kit for BST http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html

[butcherboy]

hi im new to the dr seems to be a fun bike to play on i want to set mine up strictly for road i have 17 inch rims on the way wanting the motard look just wanting to know what size sprockets and mods will make it even better its a brand new one out of the box

[NordieBoy]

For NZ, the stock gearing will be good for 160kph or so...

[butcherboy]

i must be to heavy then had it wound out the other day and maxed at 140km/hr and it struggled passed 125 to get there might need more power, whats the best way to get that apart from a new bike

[NordieBoy]

i must be to heavy then had it wound out the other day and maxed at 140km/hr and it struggled passed 125 to get there might need more power, whats the best way to get that apart from a new bike

Actually 15/41 should be good for 186kph at the limiter, in theory.

On sand with 15/46 gearing, I was pulling about 130kph and not getting near the limiter in top.

Sounds like yours needs looking at.

For better power/response, simplest is to pull the snorkel and raise the needle a notch.
Next is a dynojet kit and airbox top removal.
Next is an exhaust.
Next is a pumper carb.
Next is a high comp piston and webcam 223 grind cam.
Next is a 790cc conversion and webcam 160 grind.

[butcherboy]

with it being a new bike will it free up more or is that it, i stand over 6ft and weigh in at 145kg so its the same as two up i suppose, had one of the procyle carb kits in mind dunno what sort of muffler yet.

[Buyasta]

with it being a new bike will it free up more or is that it, i stand over 6ft and weigh in at 145kg so its the same as two up i suppose, had one of the procyle carb kits in mind dunno what sort of muffler yet.

I'm 6ft2 and weigh 145, and while I'm not sure that it's on the stock gearing, mine got me up to about 85-90 mph indicated on the stock carb, exhaust etc.

Having said that, I've since done the airbox cut and chucked a TM40, an FMF Powerbomb header and a Marving exhaust on there, and it definitely feels and sounds a hell of a lot nicer now, although the carb needs some tuning.

I got my TM40 kit from Kientech rather than Procycle because it was a little cheaper and came with a remote choke, but in retrospect I'm wishing I'd gone with the Procycle kit and payed the extra $33 for the remote choke. The Procycle kit comes with a range of jets and a tuning manual, and while finding a PDF of a TM40 tuning manual that I assume is the same online was easy, the jets seem to be mostly out of stock with the NZ distributor, and are a bit too pricy to be able to just buy a decent range of them so you can experiment. :(

As far as the muffler, obviously different people have different opinions, but I will say the Marving is pretty damn nice - there's sod all info about it out there because you can only buy them in Europe, but I really wanted a muffler I didn't have to repack, and the Staintune was too pricy and the GSXR cans too hard to find. I like the way it looks and sounds, and while I'd have been willing to pay a couple hundred more for an exhaust that didn't need repacking, it was a little cheaper than importing an FMF, and a lot cheaper than buying one locally - it wound up costing me $383 including shipping from the UK, so under the GST threshold as well.

[butcherboy]

sounds like a good price for an exhaust whare do i get them from

[Buyasta]

sounds like a good price for an exhaust whare do i get them from

www.wemoto.com (http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/suzuki/dr_650_se_sp46a/96-03/picture/marving_amacal_silencers_-_chrome_&_aluminium/)

That one I've linked to is listed under the 96-03 DR section, they don't actually have one listed for later models, but I'm pretty sure that's just poor website design, and that nothing in the exhaust has changed since the new model in 96, I'm sure someone more knowledgeable about DRs than myself such as Nordieboy could confirm/correct that.

[Phreaky Phil]

That looks like a nice muffler and at not a bad price. You are right, there is no change from 96 to current.

[Waipukbiker]

Just to change the subject, Fitted a new Shinko 705 on the rear, inflated to 26psi and did about 150 kms total in the day on seal, the last run was about 50 kms on the main highway and when i got home i could smell rubber, the tyre was pretty hot, checked the pressure, was showing 28psi.
This is the first time Ive fitted a new tyre on this size bike so have no experiance, if this is normal for a new tyre or not. New heavy duty tube was fitted as well.
Any comments would be welcome. The tyre is a 130 by the way.

Cheers

[NordieBoy]

The only time I've got one hot was when it was flat and running 2 rim locks. Almost burnt my hands changing the tube.

I ran the whole DB1K last year at 20f/18r with no temp issues.

Day to day use I run about 24f/26r without excessive heating.

Does sound weird...

I do run the 120's however but that shouldn't make a difference.

[Waihou Thumper]

Just to change the subject, Fitted a new Shinko 705 on the rear, inflated to 26psi and did about 150 kms total in the day on seal, the last run was about 50 kms on the main highway and when i got home i could smell rubber, the tyre was pretty hot, checked the pressure, was showing 28psi.
This is the first time Ive fitted a new tyre on this size bike so have no experiance, if this is normal for a new tyre or not. New heavy duty tube was fitted as well.
Any comments would be welcome. The tyre is a 130 by the way.

Cheers

Maybe the road temperature influences tyre temperature of course. The sun beating down all day, mid 30's, I am sure you have a bit of conducted heat there, rather than the actual tyre overheating as a result of pressure, fitting etc?

[Waipukbiker]

yeah, good point on the road temp, just as an example, last thursday we put a thermometer on top of a wooden post at work, the scale goes to 50, at 3 pm it was pegged. we have had major probs with tar bleeding on the secondry roads but on sat when i went out, it was a hot day but not that bad.
I will keep an eye on it, Got a ride on sat with a lot of shingle roads and farm tracks so will see how it goes.
With the 705 being a rounder profile than the EO7 was, its much nicer in the corners.

[Phreaky Phil]

Have been looking at a tyre for our little blat around the South Island. As we will be on Tarmac for a lot of it I was thinking of a Mitas E07 or maybe a Shinko 705. I have never tried either. I just had a look at the price for the Shinko and it's way cheaper than the Mitas. Looks like they are available in a 80 and 90 profile in 130 size. Reckon the 80 might be the go.
What are your thoughts.

[NordieBoy]

The E07 is probably more suited to 2up as the 705 has a rounder profile.

I think I'd go for a 140 section E07 myself.

Value for money, the 705 wins. Just not sure how it would go 2up.

[Ally67]

Ahem does anyone out there have a left side passenger foot peg that they don't need, my one got broken in the Molesworth

[Phreaky Phil]

The E07 is probably more suited to 2up as the 705 has a rounder profile.

I think I'd go for a 140 section E07 myself.

Value for money, the 705 wins. Just not sure how it would go 2up.I was talking to Robin at Mitas about a 140 and he had a 140 E09 on his DR and reckons it kills the handling and will go back to a 130. Not sure what he meant by that. Have you tried a 140 ?

[NordieBoy]

Ahem does anyone out there have a left side passenger foot peg that they don't need, my one got broken in the Molesworth

Got a couple. Just the alloy bit?

[NordieBoy]

I was talking to Robin at Mitas about a 140 and he had a 140 E09 on his DR and reckons it kills the handling and will go back to a 130. Not sure what he meant by that. Have you tried a 140 ?

The chch guys seemed to like them.
I run E07's in 130 and 705's in 120.

[Ally67]

Got a couple. Just the alloy bit?

yes please. I'm coming over your way today I'll pop in aye?

[Eddieb]

I was talking to Robin at Mitas about a 140 and he had a 140 E09 on his DR and reckons it kills the handling and will go back to a 130. Not sure what he meant by that. Have you tried a 140 ?

I've just taken a 140 E-09 off. I found it OK though it slid over the gravel rather than dug in if that makes sense.

[NordieBoy]

yes please. I'm coming over your way today I'll pop in aye?

If no one is here, it'll be on the table under the veranda.

[Ally67]

If no one is here, it'll be on the table under the veranda.

cheers for that

[fridayflash]

I was talking to Robin at Mitas about a 140 and he had a 140 E09 on his DR and reckons it kills the handling and will go back to a 130. Not sure what he meant by that. Have you tried a 140 ?

i take it he meant slowed down the steering turn in?
it sounds like blind science talk but ive noticed it especialy on dirtbikes, wider rear does blunten (sic?)
the handling quite a bit

[cruza]

Have been looking at a tyre for our little blat around the South Island. As we will be on Tarmac for a lot of it I was thinking of a Mitas E07 or maybe a Shinko 705. I have never tried either. I just had a look at the price for the Shinko and it's way cheaper than the Mitas. Looks like they are available in a 80 and 90 profile in 130 size. Reckon the 80 might be the go.
What are your thoughts.

go with a mitas E07 130 . great all round tyre on DR

[Waipukbiker]

Mine had a 130 x 90 EO7 on it when i brought it., 120 x 90 is standard, I do a lot of roady riding so the 705 made more sence and its very nice for handling compared to the EO7.
The 130 x 90 x 17 705 is rated at a max load of 315 kg at 41 psi.

[fridayflash]

i like those e07's , will be my next rear methinks, i got stuck breifly on the wet clay climb not far out of owhango on the 42nd traverse
(i was running a avon distanza slick) grantwb stopped on the slope, gave me a push then took off easily with the e07, brilliant!

[Phreaky Phil]

Guess its Guna be an E07 then.
thanks for your replies.
May get something with more knobs for our Dead End Ride though. Just in case it rains

[Ally67]

If no one is here, it'll be on the table under the veranda.

thanks Nordie it a perfect fit.

[butcherboy]

just scored some 17inch rims for the dr need some help on tyre size and brand, what are your thoughts thanks

[DRnick]

If anyone's looking for an 18" rear wheel for their DR, I am looking for someone with a 17" to trade with: Trader Link (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/156660-18-quot-DR650-rear-wheel-to-trade-for-your-stock-17-quot-rear)

[TangoCharlie]

Anyone know who the NZ supplier for Race Tech Springs is?

[Jantar]

Try Robert Taylor at KSS

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/138637-Damper-rod-forks-emulators-intminators-and-progressive-springs

[NordieBoy]

The >$5000US engine is in a bike finally...

<img width=640 src=http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/pp167/procycle1/DR%20stroker%20project/IMG_1305_zps87eec1a1.jpg>

[Phreaky Phil]

The >$5000US engine is in a bike finally...


And running and apparently very well !
http://drriders.com/topic6662-140.html

[ducatilover]

DR900?


:drool:
Sweet baby Jesus

[gav24]

Think this may be my first dr problem in 5 years of pretty slack maintenance, hard riding and general abuse....
.... Original battery may be toast, maybe. Left ignition on all night, struggled to get the charger to work on it today - red light / dead battery sign just stayed on. Got it on the optimate again now, strangely the amber light now?!? Anyhow, we'll know in the morning...
... Probably just the charger, if the bikes previous record is anything to go by!

[Ocean1]

Think this may be my first dr problem in 5 years of pretty slack maintenance, hard riding and general abuse....
.... Original battery may be toast, maybe. Left ignition on all night, struggled to get the charger to work on it today - red light / dead battery sign just stayed on. Got it on the optimate again now, strangely the amber light now?!? Anyhow, we'll know in the morning...
... Probably just the charger, if the bikes previous record is anything to go by!

I know if they're absofuckinglutely flat they can take a while to get up off the floor. Also, I did something similar a couple of years ago, put it on charge for about 4hrs and put it back in the bike. No good. Took it to see Selwin, who checked it and told me: "Your bike's charge system is for maintaining your battery, not charging it up from bloody near flat, there's fuck all wrong with it." Apparently if the voltage is much below 11.5 then it won't happen.

[gav24]

Yep, it was absolutely flat... I'll know in about 30 mins whether its saved or not. Other wise it's $90 or so to mr motobatt

[gav24]

Yay! Green light this morning. Go the mighty dr!:clap:

[NordieBoy]

The DR900 is about complete...
<img width=640 src=http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/pp167/procycle1/DR%20stroker%20project/IMG_1332_zps6b312e93.jpg>

[Mo NZ]

Do ya think he would loan it to us for a day. Might be worth a giggle. Nah. I think we would have to wrench if from his cold clammy hand before he gave it up. Those clip-on's must make a big space in the middle where you could put some goodies.

[Padmei]

Any DR owners have a throttle assembly floating around they don't need?

[butcherboy]

well there must be something wrong with my bike, i put an fmf power bomb header, marving exhaust, carb kit and k,n filter, and i still cant get it past 130 kph whats next do i look at the gearing

[gav24]

You cut the top out of the air box?
Still 130 isn't too bad for an old tech dirt bike!

[butcherboy]

You cut the top out of the air box?
Still 130 isn't too bad for an old tech dirt bike!

yep got the procycle kit with the bigger jet and needle etc used there diagram to cut out the airbox

[Woodman]

well there must be something wrong with my bike, i put an fmf power bomb header, marving exhaust, carb kit and k,n filter, and i still cant get it past 130 kph whats next do i look at the gearing

Is it getting full revs in top gear?

[Waipukbiker]

Have a look on the right side of the carb, when you give it full throttle check that the rev limiter switch is being triggered. This should only happen when the linkage on the carb is at maximum travel.
I think this switch kills the CDI at about 6,500 RPM. Nordie may now more about that.
My bike is dead stock apart from the snorkle removed and a 14 tooth on the front, I can get to 140 KPH easy on a slight uphill and Im 100 KG (ish).

[NordieBoy]

well there must be something wrong with my bike, i put an fmf power bomb header, marving exhaust, carb kit and k,n filter, and i still cant get it past 130 kph whats next do i look at the gearing
Change into top :devil2:


Stock 15/42 is good for 181kph at the limiter (7,800rpm).

130kph with 15/42 is only 5,600rpm.
It should pull hard to 7,000 at least.

It needs tuning.

I was pulling 135kph on sand with 14/46 at about 7,000rpm and it was losing about 20kph to wheelspin.

[NordieBoy]

Have a look on the right side of the carb, when you give it full throttle check that the rev limiter switch is being triggered. This should only happen when the linkage on the carb is at maximum travel.
I think this switch kills the CDI at about 6,500 RPM. Nordie may now more about that.

Can't tell the difference on the dyno with the switch on or off.

[Eddieb]

well there must be something wrong with my bike, i put an fmf power bomb header, marving exhaust, carb kit and k,n filter, and i still cant get it past 130 kph whats next do i look at the gearing

Put it back to stock? They are good for about 150-155 standard.

What sort of economy are you getting? something must be out with your tuning if it's only going that speed.

[dino3310]

are you sure its not a KLR :lol:

[Waipukbiker]

Im getting 18 to 19 kms per litre on the road with a stock carb and exhaust, (Thats staying below 105 kmh) (The needle clip is in the centre position) sprocket ratio is 14/43. Its got all the power I need and its nice and quiet.

[butcherboy]

Is it getting full revs in top gear?

nah struggling to get 6000rpm

[butcherboy]

Put it back to stock? They are good for about 150-155 standard.

What sort of economy are you getting? something must be out with your tuning if it's only going that speed.

even at stock it was the same it does have a bit more midrange at the moment, as for economy went for a ride today sitting on 100-110 about 100km and used $14 woth of gas. not much more then when it was stock, i have a 15tooth front and 41 rear

[butcherboy]

Change into top :devil2:


Stock 15/42 is good for 181kph at the limiter (7,800rpm).

130kph with 15/42 is only 5,600rpm.
It should pull hard to 7,000 at least.

It needs tuning.

I was pulling 135kph on sand with 14/46 at about 7,000rpm and it was losing about 20kph to wheelspin.

that is top gear it will pull to 6500 mint in fourth as soon as you hit 5th it struggles and just wont pull after 120kmph i have 15/41 gearing

[butcherboy]

took the bike to a suzuki shop is there something they missed when they tuned it

[NordieBoy]

That's about 14-15km/L?

Even my FCR gets 18-19km/L.

As a base line you should be running a 150 mikuni main, open airbox top, needle 3rd from top (no white spacer), mixture screw out to best revs and then in half a turn.

[butcherboy]

That's about 14-15km/L?

Even my FCR gets 18-19km/L.

As a base line you should be running a 150 mikuni main, open airbox top, needle 3rd from top (no white spacer), mixture screw out to best revs and then in half a turn.

i got them to use the procycle kit ive opened the airbox its got the 150 main jet will ask the mechanic on what the needle setting is but i think he used there instructions and a k/n airfilter

[dino3310]

could the 15/41 be just a little to high a gearing- i no with my pig the 15/40 is just to high and wont rev out in 5th but with the 15/42 she'll pull off the speedo no worries, just a thought, with that in mind and a not so right jet it might be enough to run like a dog

[Waipukbiker]

I would be tempted to try a 14 tooth on the front, That was the best thing I ever did, much nicer to ride in all situations. The most fuel efficiant RPM for any engine is where max torque is delivered.
On the DR650 its 4,600 RPM, so higher gearing dousnt automaticly equate to better economy, the further you push the RPM down at 100kph, the harder its working and this can have an opposite effect on economy. With 14/43 sprockets at 100KPH its doing approx 4,200 RPM and thats where mine is. Many years ago, my full time job was dyno testing engines and this included plotting HP, Torque and fuel efficiancy curves and this was done under varios load conditions so Im no stranger to this stuff. leave the high gearing for the American freeways, our country is to lumpy for that.
Wairoa is my home town so I know what its like around there. if you are planning on coming down to Nap/Hastings at all soon you can try mine out with the gearing Ive got.

[butcherboy]

I would be tempted to try a 14 tooth on the front, That was the best thing I ever did, much nicer to ride in all situations. The most fuel efficiant RPM for any engine is where max torque is delivered.
On the DR650 its 4,600 RPM, so higher gearing dousnt automaticly equate to better economy, the further you push the RPM down at 100kph, the harder its working and this can have an opposite effect on economy. With 14/43 sprockets at 100KPH its doing approx 4,200 RPM and thats where mine is. Many years ago, my full time job was dyno testing engines and this included plotting HP, Torque and fuel efficiancy curves and this was done under varios load conditions so Im no stranger to this stuff. leave the high gearing for the American freeways, our country is to lumpy for that.
Wairoa is my home town so I know what its like around there. if you are planning on coming down to Nap/Hastings at all soon you can try mine out with the gearing Ive got.


that would be cool i think i might try the 14 tooth front and see how i go as for testing yours a catch up would be great

[fridayflash]

too right, 15/41 or even 15/43 is way to high, i threw my 15t away a week after i got my bike and even
went up to 44 on the rear (14/44) which suits me and never feels too low even on highway...make 'em
wheelies just a little easier too ;)

[Eddieb]

15/41 is stock and it should pull to at least 150 on that gearing with no issues.

I'm running 15/43 and there's no change in top speed but it's a bit peppier all over. Gearing may mask some of it but you still have issues that need to be resolved somewhere.

[dino3310]

yeah ya right there eddie definately something restricting it thats needs to be sorted-

would be good if said bike could get down to waipuks place and compare apples maybe.
kinda one of those problems ya wana see in person and have a totu:drinkup::laugh:

[NordieBoy]

5,000rpm max torque.
6,000rpm max power.

I'm running equiv to 14/43 for general use.

[bart]

Mine runs 15/41 fine, but I think it runs a little hotter then most DR's. I find 14/41 drones too much on the long highway hauls and drives me mental.

[R650R]

I might try gearing the 750 so it does 10000rpm at 100kph then :)

I'm with Bart, that lil piston already sounds a bit buzzy at highway speeds and above. First gear already feels to low to me and the only benefit I'd see is in river corssing or tricky obstacles.
I'd rather have it set up for doing whats best most of the time which is 95% a long way away from first gear.

Back to that other chaps bike I've read somewhere that the marving pipe is little more than a cosmetic difference from stock and similar in weight and restriction, perhaps its strangling all that extra air and fuel that your trying to feed it???
What does the bike do if you very slowly roll off the throttle from your max speed at moment?

Perhaps we should all do a fuel challenge on the next group ride. Mine does about 4.5L from Napier to Wairoa, 750 sucked through 7L on same trip yesterday but it was moving a bit quicker than the DR does :)

[Eddieb]

What does the bike do if you very slowly roll off the throttle from your max speed at moment?

+1


Perhaps we should all do a fuel challenge on the next group ride. Mine does about 4.5L from Napier to Wairoa, 750 sucked through 7L on same trip yesterday but it was moving a bit quicker than the DR does :)

If you click on the banner in my signature I've got over 10,000km of fuel history for my bike recorded. It's been handy for tuning as as well as the seat of the pants dyno I can see in real numbers what difference a modification has made over a tank of fuel.

http://www.fuelly.com/driver/Eddieb/dr650

[NordieBoy]

My numbers say 18-19km/L from the FCR39 no matter the riding conditions or gearing.
18-25km/L from the DynoJetted BST depending on riding conditions.

[Eddieb]

Is the front edge of the rear tyre evenly centred between the 2 sides of the swingarm or does it have more clearance on one side than the other due to the sprocket etc?

I replaced my rear pads yesterday and when mounting the tyre I couldn't get the wheel to sit evenly centred between the swingarm even playing around with the smnail adjusters at significantly different settings and I can't remember if thats normal or something is out of whack.

The other bike is buried under a pile of boxes and stuff from shifting and I can't get at it to compare.

[gav24]

Not sure if its meant to be centred in the swingarm ( i wouldnt think so) but I did set mine using 2 long straight lengths of angle iron and getting it centred off the front wheel. With the bike on a workshop stand.
Was a bit tricky with the knobbly tyres, but with some patience and zip ties i got it done, and the snail cam was only 1 click extra on the right side to get the front wheel centred between the lengths of iron running off the sides of the rear tyre. I guess that gets them in alignment but who knows if the front wheel is centred...-and on it goes...
I must admit for the last 2 rear tyres I haven't bothered and just trust the snail cams to be near enough. I'll need to do it all again soon when I get round to making the gsxr rims fit...

[gav24]

My last post was pretty unhelpful!
How's this;
Snail cams both on 3
Swing arm to rim left side - 65mm
Swing arm to rim right(brake) side - 45mm

So not centred then! Hope that helps a bit more.
Sometimes I should definitely k.i.s.s.

[Eddieb]

My last post was pretty unhelpful!
How's this;
Snail cams both on 3
Swing arm to rim left side - 65mm
Swing arm to rim right(brake) side - 45mm

So not centred then! Hope that helps a bit more.
Sometimes I should definitely k.i.s.s.

Thanks Gav, mine is 20-30 mm out with the brake side much closer to the swingarm.

Anyone else got a comment in case both Gav and I are out?

[R650R]

I find the cush drive is a bit of an odd fit, it doesn't seem to hold in place like other bikes do. Maybe somethings gone astray there and jamming the show at an angle. The rear caliper is on a sliding float mount too, perhaps there could be an issue there?
Take a picture, someone here will have an ahh ha moment of clarity on behalf of you.
Haven't put wheel spacers wrong way?
Have you tried pulling out and starting over again?

Don't know if these will help or not
http://flickr.com/gp/77819625@N08/z94K68
http://flickr.com/gp/77819625@N08/8v76k6
http://flickr.com/gp/77819625@N08/0Ax47m

[Eddieb]

I find the cush drive is a bit of an odd fit, it doesn't seem to hold in place like other bikes do. Maybe somethings gone astray there and jamming the show at an angle. The rear caliper is on a sliding float mount too, perhaps there could be an issue there?
Take a picture, someone here will have an ahh ha moment of clarity on behalf of you.
Haven't put wheel spacers wrong way?
Have you tried pulling out and starting over again?

Don't know if these will help or not
http://flickr.com/gp/77819625@N08/z94K68
http://flickr.com/gp/77819625@N08/8v76k6
http://flickr.com/gp/77819625@N08/0Ax47m

The rear brake is mounted correctly on the slider, the cush drive is sitting even the whole way round and all the spacers are seated good. The spacers and cush never actually came out, I lifted the bike onto my work stand, removed the axle and dropped the wheel just enough to pull the caliper off the sliding mount, changed the pads then reversed everything back in. Everything is spinning ok with nothing binding but sitting directly behind the rear wheel looking forward it looks odd.

[R650R]

So wheel turns ok?

[Eddieb]

So wheel turns ok?



yep it all spins fine

[butcherboy]

took the bike to the mechanic and he pulled the plug out of the back of the ristricter on the carb bike pulls to 7000rpm with ease in every gear except 5th it will only get to about 5800rpm and wont pull is this a gearing issue

[butcherboy]

I might try gearing the 750 so it does 10000rpm at 100kph then :)

I'm with Bart, that lil piston already sounds a bit buzzy at highway speeds and above. First gear already feels to low to me and the only benefit I'd see is in river corssing or tricky obstacles.
I'd rather have it set up for doing whats best most of the time which is 95% a long way away from first gear.

Back to that other chaps bike I've read somewhere that the marving pipe is little more than a cosmetic difference from stock and similar in weight and restriction, perhaps its strangling all that extra air and fuel that your trying to feed it???
What does the bike do if you very slowly roll off the throttle from your max speed at moment?

Perhaps we should all do a fuel challenge on the next group ride. Mine does about 4.5L from Napier to Wairoa, 750 sucked through 7L on same trip yesterday but it was moving a bit quicker than the DR does :)

when you slowly let go off the throttle it slows down the same as it used to

[butcherboy]

Put it back to stock? They are good for about 150-155 standard.

What sort of economy are you getting? something must be out with your tuning if it's only going that speed.

even at stock 130 was topps with me on it

[Waipukbiker]

Im not concerned at all where my back wheel is in relation to the frame, I just worry about the sprockets being lined up, with the chain loose, slowly spin the back wheel and watch carefully where the teeth on the back sprocket engage the chain at the bottom, if there is any sign of the teeth trying to push the chain away before the chain engages with the sprocket then it means that on one side the side links are rubbing on the teeth, then its out of line, if one side of the tooth is polished and the other is dirty then that is another indicator.
Draw a straight line on the ground and push the bike along keeping the front wheel exactly on the line. after a couple of metres, stop and see if the back wheel is on the line, any mis alignment and it will be off to one side.

Ooops, the subject has changed while I was typing this out.

[NordieBoy]

I'll check mine.
My adjusters are one notch apart (right one is 1 notch more).
I used a chain alignment tool to find that out.

My '90 TT350 is fine.

[NordieBoy]

took the bike to the mechanic and he pulled the plug out of the back of the ristricter on the carb bike pulls to 7000rpm with ease in every gear except 5th it will only get to about 5800rpm and wont pull is this a gearing issue

I'm still suspicious of it being a carb problem.

One way to tell is to try it on a dyno to take rolling and wind resistance out of the equation.
Then you can also crank up the resistance and see what happens.

A 14t sprocket wouldn't hurt anything though and would make everything about the bike feel better.

[butcherboy]

I'm still suspicious of it being a carb problem.

One way to tell is to try it on a dyno to take rolling and wind resistance out of the equation.
Then you can also crank up the resistance and see what happens.

A 14t sprocket wouldn't hurt anything though and would make everything about the bike feel better.


thanks for the help ive ordered a 14t and had my mate take it for a spin last night he is about 50kg lighter and got it upto 140 when he got a bit of tank slap so he backed of but said it still had pull, it might not like the weight and wind resistance i create my mate has a cbrr 600 and cant ride behind me i create to much turbulance(he doesnt stay behind me long and usaly has a good rest by the time i turn up if i wantedto go that fast id buy a sports bike)

[gwynfryn]

Thinking about adding a dr650 to the stable and it appears some have the speedo calibrated in mph. Are there other differences between these and the kph bikes such as any engine restrictions etc. Thanks in advance.

[Eddieb]

Thinking about adding a dr650 to the stable and it appears some have the speedo calibrated in mph. Are there other differences between these and the kph bikes such as any engine restrictions etc. Thanks in advance.

The speedo is not so much 'calibrated for mph' but has a mph face on it. The taillight is also probably a different style to the NZ ones which are more flush and presumably the headlight is the NZ one that points to the left for WOF purposes. Other than that I can't think of any other differences.

[NordieBoy]

Thinking about adding a dr650 to the stable and it appears some have the speedo calibrated in mph. Are there other differences between these and the kph bikes such as any engine restrictions etc. Thanks in advance.

It may have the ugly tail light and muffler with 2 bolts under it (one at each end).
If it does, then it's a US spec one.

Same as NZ but 1 tooth more on the rear sprocket (42).
No engine restrictions, just different jetting to suit their fuel.

I've got an almost unused KPH speedo here.

[gwynfryn]

Thanks, so not a deal breaker been a US model.

[NordieBoy]

Thanks, so not a deal breaker been a US model.

Nope. Had one of them myself. Just difficult to get used the the handlebars being on the left.

[gwynfryn]

Ha ha. Actually off to look at a xr400r an oldy but a goody hopefully. Original tyres, rego on hold. Nothing like a project now that the rain has arrived.

[NordieBoy]

DR900...
<img width=640 src="http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/pp167/procycle1/DR%20stroker%20project/clipons_zps1897c425.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo clipons_zps1897c425.jpg"/>

Galfer...
<img width=640 src="http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/pp167/procycle1/DR%20stroker%20project/galfer320_zpse521c725.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo galfer320_zpse521c725.jpg"/>

<img width=640 src="http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/pp167/procycle1/DR%20stroker%20project/IMG_1349_zps7b07303a.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_1349_zps7b07303a.jpg">

<img width=640 src="http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/pp167/procycle1/DR%20stroker%20project/IMG_1358_zps6ce3e527.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_1358_zps6ce3e527.jpg"/>

[Eddieb]

As much as I can appreciate the individual upgrades on the bike I think the sum of the parts is hideously ugly. I don't know if it's the colour, the front guard, the position of the handlebars or all 3 together but that really doesn't do it for me.

[Waipukbiker]

Dousnt spin my wheels at all either.

[NordieBoy]

Dousnt spin my wheels at all either.

Spins it's wheel in first quite easily by the sound of it...

[Woodman]

Fugly.......................:facepalm:

[bart]

It would look better in black. And he's gone to all that trouble and kept the headlight? Twin rounds like a Speed Triple would spin my wheels.

[clint640]

DR900...


Looks good I reckon. With a beast like that you want it a bit stealth, if the looks were all jazzed up then the posers on sprotsbikes might not realise they've just been pwned by a DR:Punk:

I still remember with a chuckle the time we almost had Peet pulling his 640 apart to work out why he couldn't pull a gap on Phil & Dawn's DR before telling him it was actually a 780 they were on.:laugh:

Clint

[R650R]

Needs some DRZ400SM stickers on the side then its all set. Who cares how it looks with that power! Seems like a work in progress though going by the thread.
The go dept was the focus not the show.

[Mo NZ]

I decided to do my NSU check/fix yesterday. I have a 2012se with 2000k.
My switch was held in with silver allen head bolts. They were reachable with ball head allen’s. They were snug tight.
I went the remove the clutch way as I did not have ball head allen’s in my kit. And I’m pleased I did.

I discovered the oil deflector screws were not tight. I wouldn’t say loose but it seemed they were not what I call “nipped up”.
I didn’t need a impact wrench to remove them. They turned like butter!
One of these screws falling would be as catastrophic as a NSU screw.

I haven’t read anything about these oil deflector screws so I thought it good to post my finding.

[Waipukbiker]

Good catch, I will be checking mine over the winter along with checking/ lubing all the swing arm, suspension, wheel bearings and steering head, should have around 27,000 kms on by then.

[pomgolian]

I guess you mean neutral switch but what are the oil deflector screws, seems very low kms to be pulling it apart. Mine has done similar to Ross's bike almost 28k and going strong, have you checked your neutral switch Ross ?

[Mo NZ]

Yeah low k’s for sure. But I wanted to get it sorted. Some do the neutral screw fix without taking off the clutch basket. I took mine off, and under there is a plate that I assume this an oil deflector plate. These were loose. If I did the fix with some ball hex tools I would never have found it.

[R650R]

I thought I read somewhere Suzuki had addresed the issue on the later model bikes. I don't see the need to flaff about with it while bike still under warranty.
Think this link halfway down the page shows the oil deflector screws he mentioned http://drriders.com/topic4466-20.html

[Waipukbiker]

Yeah Paul, Mine is going really well too, I dont like disturbing any cover that has oil behind it unless I have to, Ive read somewhere too about Suzuki sorting out the switch screw prob but dont know from which year. A simple google would prob tell me.

[Mo NZ]

Yup you could do that. Or wait until it grenades, maybe never, or actually lift the case and have a look.
In my case re the neutral switch screws had been changed to cap screws by the factory, however they had no thread lock on them and maybe and only maybe they may have worked loose, who will know? They now have the thread lock and are wired.

This post is about loose oil deflector screws.

I really don’t mind “flaffing’ about in my bike shed fiddling with my bikes. I enjoy it.
There are some things that really do require attention, even from new.

[NordieBoy]

Not really sorted.
They have changed to an allen screw but it still needs locktite.

[pomgolian]

Thanks Mo - being a mechanic by trade i have always subscribed to Ross's theory if it aint broke dont fix it, pulling something down can have other consequences, that said thats why manufacturers have recalls to fix these factory issues. Maybe i will pull the cover off and check both sets of bolts/screws. And while im there will have to lube that bloody starter again the sqwark is back.:confused:

[Mo NZ]

Yeah I was doing an oil/filter change and I thought what the hell, I will have a look.
I was astounded when I discovered the loose screws. I wasn’t expecting that.
I hope to take this bike to Oz and Tazi for a look around and I am setting it up for that type of stuff.
I read a post where these guys did a good trip leaving from Townsville for month or so.
And I have seen there is some good riding in Tazi.
The fact I discovered the oil deflector screws loose may become a biggie and just thought it should be out there.

[Waipukbiker]

Considering the consiquenses (however you spell it)of the bloody things coming loose, I will add it to my winter maint list. The phrase "piece of mind" has a lot more meaning when you are out in the boonies somewhere. My starter bush started singing to me about 6,000 kms ago and so far the grease I put on it is still doing its thing. Be interesting to see how much grease there is in the varios linkages and bearings when I check them over winter, temted to fit some nipples in the swing arm and susp links.

[Mo NZ]

I think I saw a post where somebody put a grease nipple into the case to lube that squeek bearing.
Might think about that while you have it out?? Few pumps with the gun and its a-1 for a while.

[NordieBoy]

I think I saw a post where somebody put a grease nipple into the case to lube that squeek bearing.
Might think about that while you have it out?? Few pumps with the gun and its a-1 for a while.

Not worth it unless you're into that sort of thing.
Simple to pull apart and grease and while you're in there you can clean up the brushes.

[Waipukbiker]

Not worth fitting a nipple for a starter bush, slightly to much grease and your starter is going to really, really hate you. 1 pump with a standard gun would be way too much.

[pomgolian]

+1 no need for the nipple (sounds odd) on the starter as its pretty easy to strip & clean, after many river crossing down south during the dusty and my suspension being shite, after putting in a new rear spring i checked the shock linkages which were not dry but the grease was very watery so i cleaned & re-greased them all, swing arm next i guess.

Mo Tazy & Oz look cool places to check out, need to go visit my sister in Perth some day but that may just an excuse to ship the DR over that way.

[Eddieb]

Thinking about adding a dr650 to the stable and it appears some have the speedo calibrated in mph. Are there other differences between these and the kph bikes such as any engine restrictions etc. Thanks in advance.

There's a brand new DR650 km speedo on trade me now at $22.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/other/auction-585967333.htm

[TangoCharlie]

Just about to install a set of Race Tech .70kg Springs into my front forks.
They will go on top of a set of Recor Intiminators.

Instructions with the Intiminators, say full the forks with the "standard" amount of 5wt oil, which per the manual is 565mls or 164mm from the top.

Procycle say the standard level is 140mm

Race Tech say fill to 130mm.

Any suggestions<_<

[pete-blen]

Just about to install a set of Race Tech .70kg Springs into my front forks.
They will go on top of a set of Recor Intiminators.

Instructions with the Intiminators, say full the forks with the "standard" amount of 5wt oil, which per the manual is 565mls or 164mm from the top.

Procycle say the standard level is 140mm

Race Tech say fill to 130mm.

Any suggestions<_<


I can see that...
the intiminators are going to displace volume..
140 with out the intiminators would be the same amount
of oil as 130 with the intiminators.. or there abouts..

[NordieBoy]

140 will be fine.

What weight springs?
I got 0.47kg/mm and they're almost too much with the Intiminators and 5mm preload.

[TangoCharlie]

140 will be fine.

What weight springs?
I got 0.47kg/mm and they're almost too much with the Intiminators and 5mm preload.

I went with .70kg springs as per the Race Tech Web Site Calculator and advise from Kiwi Suspension Solutions.

Jesse at Kientech just advised this morning to go with 164mm!
So nothing is clearer!!!

[pomgolian]

I thought 0.7 springs sounded heavy - i did the same calculator and it came up with 0.6 (but i am only 65kgs) which has sorted the brake dive and seems OK on the first test run, much stiffer than stock but handled the bumps well but time will tell if its too stiff, i used the stock oil level with 10mm preload but no intimidators.

[NordieBoy]

0.47kg/mm was what the RaceTech calc gave me for a 90kg rider with big tank back when I got mine.
The static and race sag settings were spot on before I installed the Intiminators.

I ran the Intiminators first off for a month with the stock 0.40 progressive springs and stock spacers and it went very well. If I didn't already have the heavier springs, I would have been quite happy.

Ideally, I'd like to give some springs around the 0.44kg/mm range a go as the Intiminators allow you to use softer springs than normally specced.

My rear spring is a 7.6 and now they spec an 8-8.2 or so.

[TangoCharlie]

282044

The "new" Race Tech Calculator gives me a .726kg Spring,
KSS said to go with the .7kg when I ordered it from them....


0.47kg/mm was what the RaceTech calc gave me for a 90kg rider with big tank back when I got mine.
The static and race sag settings were spot on before I installed the Intiminators.

I ran the Intiminators first off for a month with the stock 0.40 progressive springs and stock spacers and it went very well. If I didn't already have the heavier springs, I would have been quite happy.

Ideally, I'd like to give some springs around the 0.44kg/mm range a go as the Intiminators allow you to use softer springs than normally specced.

My rear spring is a 7.6 and now they spec an 8-8.2 or so.

[NordieBoy]

The "new" Race Tech Calculator gives me a .726kg Spring,
KSS said to go with the .7kg when I ordered it from them....

Yep, it's weird how the numbers have changed.

I think nowadays they're taking the weight of the bike into account too.