VFR owners' thread, for VFRPS members and prospective members

[DrunkenMistake]

Anyone need a fairing bolt kit?

Will probably order one from here http://www.tastynuts.com/Products/VF...cluding_Screen
in the next few weeks. About $50 NZD shipped to nz. If you want one let me know as the shipping price does not change with the quantity ordered.

Would like to say yes, but I have those bolts that are like, threadless screws but have a grove in them that locks into place on the fairings, I dont know if these are stock? but looking at that kit they are not included?

[DrunkenMistake]

Ok, Got my tyga package today, took what.. a week to arrive?

Clutch cable,
C spanner for Pro link,
Tyga Clutch lever,
Tyga Silver Carbon Dail surround,
and Gas cap carbon sticker,

The clutch cable has fixed my clutch problems so Woop! for that
(photos are off my phone in a poor lit garage so sorry about the quality)


The only thing that I was disappointed with was the surround, as it didnt stick to the foam very well, all it needs is some super glue or some 3m double sided tape.

[Devy]

Heye mate... just go to any Mitre 10 and they have a selection of zinc and copper washers in the nails/screws section including the 1/8 inch size which I use and are 1mm thickness. They fit in the needle retainer no problem. If you've got an existing 0.5mm washer then you can just use these 1mm washers on top. 0.5mm washers may be a bit hard to find but you can have mine if you want.

Devy- are you really running 110 jets with a modified end can? That must be lean as hell. If you want easy starting in the morning then you can adjust the pilot screws more on the rich side.. you can have it start up without choke from cold if you really want. Your main jet is not going to really effect your starting as the needle hasn't even started coming out at that point... I think you'd only be using pilot jet.

hey i was at mitre 10 earlier 2day n had a look at those 1/8 washers but they dont fit into the hole where the needle sits. i need someting slightly smaller than 1/8th...

thanks for the offer mate. il have a go 2moro to find some, if not ill drop you a PM for those washers.
the model shop thing is a good idea!!. i have an old rc car somewhere around the house.. maybe it has the same washer.. :P

sucks tho. i just hit a big brick wall :/
went to take the rear pipe section out n the F**King bolts are rusted..
thats nt the worse bit... some1 has tried to take them out before, and fully rounded the bolts completely >( ugh.

ive managed to undo 1 but 2 more bolts are just far to rounded to have any grip..
any idea's on how 2 get them out?? im soaking it wit wd40 now that should lossen up the rust between the bolt n tread.

n nah racefactory i havnt actually. the arrow can is offer an ealier 92 vfr nc30 which is my brothers..
we've had the bike for a few years now its only done 22,000kms runs mint only problem is its not reg'd or wof'd. sad that its gona be dismantled soon.. i need the parts to fix my vfr now. which mean..

IF anyone's looking for some vfr parts give me a PM i have a few parts for sale.
AND i have a full tyga fairing kit, fiberglass from tailand. dad brought it over a few years ago.

[Devy]

Would like to say yes, but I have those bolts that are like, threadless screws but have a grove in them that locks into place on the fairings, I dont know if these are stock? but looking at that kit they are not included?

yeah ive gt those bolts on my fairings 2.. they definetly stock. but u can replace that metal bit on the fairing with a normal treaded screw grove

[racefactory]

Just drill out the bolts or use a decent pair of pliers to get them loose?

Bring your V4's to the coro ride next Saturday guys http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...post1130030272

[Devy]

my bad. ment to say nuts*. the bolts welded onto the flange.
the usual thing i do is file opposite sides down. fit an open ended spanner and that usually works but thes bolts are in an akward position.. plus the whole filling thing takes along time...

what i want 2 know is if any1 has taken the exhaust out from the block itself as a 1 peice?. and if soo is it hard? that would make it alittle easier i guess n wont take as long as filling the bolts down.

[gatch]

my bad. ment to say nuts*. the bolts welded onto the flange.
the usual thing i do is file opposite sides down. fit an open ended spanner and that usually works but thes bolts are in an akward position.. plus the whole filling thing takes along time...

what i want 2 know is if any1 has taken the exhaust out from the block itself as a 1 peice?. and if soo is it hard? that would make it alittle easier i guess n wont take as long as filling the bolts down.

Tried a cold chisel and a hammer ? OR a hammer and a dolly ?

Note, DO NOT ATTEMPT IF YOU ARE A HAM FIST.

[HenryDorsetCase]

hey i was at mitre 10 earlier 2day n had a look at those 1/8 washers but they dont fit into the hole where the needle sits. i need someting slightly smaller than 1/8th...

thanks for the offer mate. il have a go 2moro to find some, if not ill drop you a PM for those washers.
the model shop thing is a good idea!!. i have an old rc car somewhere around the house.. maybe it has the same washer.. :P

sucks tho. i just hit a big brick wall :/
went to take the rear pipe section out n the F**King bolts are rusted..
thats nt the worse bit... some1 has tried to take them out before, and fully rounded the bolts completely >( ugh.

ive managed to undo 1 but 2 more bolts are just far to rounded to have any grip..
any idea's on how 2 get them out?? im soaking it wit wd40 now that should lossen up the rust between the bolt n tread.

n nah racefactory i havnt actually. the arrow can is offer an ealier 92 vfr nc30 which is my brothers..
we've had the bike for a few years now its only done 22,000kms runs mint only problem is its not reg'd or wof'd. sad that its gona be dismantled soon.. i need the parts to fix my vfr now. which mean..

IF anyone's looking for some vfr parts give me a PM i have a few parts for sale.
AND i have a full tyga fairing kit, fiberglass from tailand. dad brought it over a few years ago.

If you've got a set of forks you want to sell, let me know. (I could be interested in a whole front end complete, too)

[HenryDorsetCase]

my bad. ment to say nuts*. the bolts welded onto the flange.
the usual thing i do is file opposite sides down. fit an open ended spanner and that usually works but thes bolts are in an akward position.. plus the whole filling thing takes along time...

what i want 2 know is if any1 has taken the exhaust out from the block itself as a 1 peice?. and if soo is it hard? that would make it alittle easier i guess n wont take as long as filling the bolts down.

you can pick up a Dremel for under a hundred bucks on special: they're good for this sort of stuff.

I really doubt you'll get the exhaust off in one piece: its really tight in there and winds round the motor and through the frame. Whatever you do, leave the rear header pipe in place because the bolts that hold it to the rear head are a complete arse to get at. theres a flange about 200mm along the pipe... use that one.

[koba]

i always follow that rule too but bumping the jet size is more of a performance upgrade. just like replacing your mufler. espcially for the rk models that only came with 110 jets its runs far leaner than the later models that came with 115/118 and 118/120.

oh and since im gona be commuting the bike in winter 2. a richer setup should help and those cold mornings right?

and thanks for the link gatch, i was gona go through cycletread but this guys way closer..

what im wondering now is do i go for a 118/120 setup or a 120/122 setup? the bikes just gona have an arrow race can. dont think im going to be doing much else,, ( thats what we all say at first)

im also wondering what brand oil every1's using on their bikes during winter?
repco holds that Castrol 4T? is that good?
and i havn't read alot of good things about these hiflow oil filters(considering they are quite cheap) soo im wondering if you guys run with that filter fine?? or i can get my hands on an orignal filter? or something better than the hiflow brand?

last bike i had was a bandit. the only option was a hiflow filter and it seemed to run fine but im always a believe that its better to spend alittle more and get a better quality item.

thanks guys

Use the choke and it will start cold better. Thats what it's for.

Hiflow brand filters are fine, I've used them in all bike I've had and never had a problem after racking um HEAPS of road and race kays. The most likely problem to have related to oil filters is never changing them!

That Castrol oil from REPCO is sweet, again like the filters just changing it is the big step that alot of people have trouble with. They can probably get in flasher stuff in a gold pack that I quite like too, it seems to stay nice for good long time.

Pull apart an old broken stereo or something for FREE small washers.

Jetting is an interesting thing, I went down the path of following the common 'wisdom' on my bike and when I realised that was a bit dumb I put it back to how it was when I got it and it runs heaps better now. Jetting is a funny thing and what works for one bike may not be quite right for another otherwise identical bike.
Being a bit lean won't destroy a good motor instantly, do be careful but its often made out like its going to blow apart the moment it's started it it has a mainjet 1 size too lean!
Do be mindful that what seems OK for a run up a backstreet may not work well for a 3 hour country road weekend fang.
Also watch plug reading as it can be quite variable with unleaded pump petrol that changes constantly. It's not as straight forward as it looks in the books.
With your bike you essentially have 3 options:
1) Chuck jets at it. Buy a range and try them all out. This requires a god testing situation like a race track and a good feel that takes a long time to acquire to work well.
2) Dyno tune it. Worth the coin if you have made changes from stock and want to piss about changing things.
3) Leave it. Has the added bonus of being free.

[racefactory]

Is their any dyno in Auckland that we can trust with our money for these V4's? For an NC30 the dyno operator really needs to know exactly what they are doing with these particular bikes as they are extremely fussy with induction and don't react typically to changes like other bikes would, not to mention these carbs require certain tricks to get on and off. If you hand in a tampered with NC30 to just anyone you'd be literally be throwing your money away.

[racefactory]

For anyone that's interested, this is the best overview of jetting and carb setup I have seen http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tunin...m_engines.html . Separates top, middle and low end clearly with their related tuning factors.

[Devy]

GOT the bolt out, i tried for a whole day.. dad came along. did his thing the next day got it out in an hour or soo thats experience for u ai.

i got the washers from a company around here called "Tools and Engineering".

just putting the bike back together now.

yeah n i saw that rear header bolt. u can definitely tell that would be a pain to take out.

Use the choke and it will start cold better. Thats what it's for.

Hiflow brand filters are fine, I've used them in all bike I've had and never had a problem after racking um HEAPS of road and race kays. The most likely problem to have related to oil filters is never changing them!

That Castrol oil from REPCO is sweet, again like the filters just changing it is the big step that alot of people have trouble with. They can probably get in flasher stuff in a gold pack that I quite like too, it seems to stay nice for good long time.

Pull apart an old broken stereo or something for FREE small washers.

Jetting is an interesting thing, I went down the path of following the common 'wisdom' on my bike and when I realised that was a bit dumb I put it back to how it was when I got it and it runs heaps better now. Jetting is a funny thing and what works for one bike may not be quite right for another otherwise identical bike.
Being a bit lean won't destroy a good motor instantly, do be careful but its often made out like its going to blow apart the moment it's started it it has a mainjet 1 size too lean!
Do be mindful that what seems OK for a run up a backstreet may not work well for a 3 hour country road weekend fang.
Also watch plug reading as it can be quite variable with unleaded pump petrol that changes constantly. It's not as straight forward as it looks in the books.
With your bike you essentially have 3 options:
1) Chuck jets at it. Buy a range and try them all out. This requires a god testing situation like a race track and a good feel that takes a long time to acquire to work well.
2) Dyno tune it. Worth the coin if you have made changes from stock and want to piss about changing things.
3) Leave it. Has the added bonus of being free.

thanks for that mate, yeah i know carbs arnt as clear cut as some ppl make it seem. just going to try it out for now if it works.. MEAN if not could always work backwards..

and cause man i use choke everymorning. wait till the bike warms up for abit then i ride it.

[montsta56]

Thought I'd share a pic of my paper weight on my desk . 30 block with pistons 444cc. Of course this is for a Race use only. chur

[racefactory]

Sick man. Get some videos up of that thing running. Where are you getting your parts for this from?