ESE's works engine tuner

[TZ350]

Ok.... got the V Tec variable inlet onto the dyno.




The V Tec (Blue line) did not improve the low end torqe like I had hoped but it also did not knock back the top end either, and I will be able to tickle out the last bit by fiddling with the ignition.




FXR Green line, so I did not get any more torque and only a little more spread at 6,000 rpm. So the FXR's are safe for now.

The big thing is that the V Tec cleaned up the throttle and got rid of the spit back in the 3-7000 range and makes the bike a whole lot more ridable, that in itself makes it worth while and a keeper if I can figure out how to open and close it on the fly.

Now to fit the V Tec divider securly and try water injection to hopefully get some FXR beating low end.

[Bert]

The big thing is that the V Tec cleaned up the throttle and got rid of the spit back in the 3-7000 range and makes the bike a whole lot more ridable, that in itself makes it worth while and a keeper if I can figure out how to open and close it on the fly.

Now to fit the V Tec divider securly and try water injection to hopefully get some FXR beating low end.

Use the power output from the ignitec to drive a RC servo (RC plane servo; should have enough torque for what you want) you might require a voltage divider as most are 5v.

Looking forward to the water injection.

[TZ350]

Use the power output from the ignitec to drive a RC servo (RC plane servo; should have enough torque for what you want) you might require a voltage divider as most are 5v.

Good idea Bert, much better than the electric door lock I was thinking of. The 5V should be easy, I can run the 12V output from the Ignitech through a TO220 5V regulator chip, easy.

I don't know much about RC servos, how are they controled? power on to turn, then off to stop? reverse polarity to change direction? Or is there different terminals for forward and reverse?

Looking forward to the water injection.

As soon as the inlet divider is secured properly we will try water injection, Thomas has some ideas for a Ram Tube and then there is the Slippery Pipe.

[Buddha#81:Me]

With all this extra "stuff" going onto the inlet, when are you going to run out of ground clearance? Also there is alot of engineering and cost if you drop it on the r/h side. Is it worth it if you smash all that off on a cold track in practice at the start of the day and miss the rest of the meeting? Or do you have a ESE fix......hinged inlet manifold?
I understand this is part of the 30hp development but was on my mind for when it leaves the dyno and "hits" the track.

[F5 Dave]

. . .
FXR Green line, so I did not get any more torque and only a little more spread at 6,000 rpm. So the FXR's are safe for now.
. . .

So how far is it between each gear change? Do you really need a spread wider than it is? I mean it should just totally murder an FXR. It has more power than the coal burner for 4 &1/2 thousand rpm.

Why are you chasing this 2 gear changes each lap idea? Are you really loosing that much time throwing in a couple of extra changes? I can't see it. Gearing markedly changes the mechanical advantage at the rear wheel. Why go out of the way to negate it? I mean you're not driving a Chevy Nova.

[TZ350]

With all this extra "stuff" going onto the inlet, when are you going to run out of ground clearance? I understand this is part of the 30hp development but was on my mind for when it leaves the dyno and "hits" the track.

Yes it is getting a bit wide, but I figured I would try out all the ideas, keep the best, and then tuck what works out of the way somehow.

Do you really need a spread wider than it is? I mean it should just totally murder an FXR. It has more power than the coal burner for 4 &1/2 thousand rpm.

Yes, at Taupo it should murder FXR's easy.

Why are you chasing this 2 gear changes each lap idea? Are you really loosing that much time throwing in a couple of extra changes? I can't see it.

From the infield to the sweeper is a place I have often had to change and lose out to an FXR. In my mind the FXR's at Mt Welly have the advantage of a wide power spread making them very easy to ride, I am looking to emulate that with my stroker.

The veriable inlet has helped clean up the carburation and the stroker will take full throttle cleanly from 3,000 rpm now, but there is not much power untill 8k. I want to lift the torque curve in the 5-7 region and have a 6k power spread like the FXR's.

Now, which would you rather ride, something that has good power for 6,000 rpm or something you have to row around with the gear lever.

[F5 Dave]

Anecdotaly some may suggest the latter rather than the former. And throw in some copious clutch lever work into the mix. I mean you don't want to get bored out there.


Heck after leaving the pits I wouldn't notice if a bike made power 3000rpm under peak. I'd be more concerned with over rev for ease of racing.

[bucketracer]

Anecdotaly some may suggest the latter rather than the former. And throw in some copious clutch lever work into the mix. I mean you don't want to get bored out there.

Yes thats right TeeZee, the medium to average rider will lap much faster and have more fun on a bike that they have to play a tune on, with the clutch and gear lever than they ever will with a bike that has a wide solid spread of power.

Anecdotaly to go fast you need a peaky engine...... ....... and talent.

[Henk]

just Talent.

[Pumba]

Yes it is getting a bit wide...........

Almost wide enough to give a kick on the way past

[Kickaha]

just Talent.

I'm well fucked then, I ran out of talent years ago

[koba]

In my mind the FXR's at Mt Welly have the advantage of a wide power spread making them very easy to ride, I am looking to emulate that with my stroker.

You may also be underestimating how their lack of outright power may also contribute.
A nice friendly power spread without too much kick and a relatively good handling frame and suspenders seems to be the best place to start with a bucket. (on a Kart track)

The bike Hels had that was the opposite (Daves old H100) was the scariest bike I've ever ridden.

Rangi is quite a fast bike but without the good handling part he is quite, um, "exciting".

Having said the sensible bit: Fuck it, MOAR POWER!!!

[bucketracer]

You may also be underestimating how their lack of outright power may also contribute.

I think TeeZee would agree with you, he has talked about that aspect of the FXR's.

After riding TeeZees bike last Sunday, Kel thought it arrived at the next corner much faster than he expected and that caused him to slow down too much. Whereas his FXR sort of arrived at the right speed.

[Gigglebutton]

I think TeeZee would agree with you, he has talked about that aspect of the FXR's.

After riding TeeZees bike last Sunday, Kel thought it arrived at the next corner much faster than he expected and that caused him to slow down too much. Whereas his FXR sort of arrived at the right speed.

Kel rides a concrete pump he's not used to the power. In time he would tame it and be awesome on it.

[bucketracer]

Good idea Bert, much better than the electric door lock I was thinking of. The 5V should be easy, I can run the 12V output from the Ignitech through a TO220 5V regulator chip, easy.

I don't know much about RC servos, how are they controlled? power on to turn, then off to stop? reverse polarity to change direction? Or is there different terminals for forward and reverse?

A bit on how RC Servos work........ http://www.horrorseek.com/home/halloween/wolfstone/Motors/svoint_RCServos.html#RCServo

The interesting part is the control signal. An RC servo motor doesn't just run when you give it power. It's an intelligent device, and you must tell it what you want it to do. The servo is controlled by a series of pulses, wherein the length of the pulse indicates the position to take. You need something that drives the servo with that control signal.

And more here........ http://www.repairfaq.org/filipg/RC/F_Servos.html