VFR owners' thread, for VFRPS members and prospective members

[DrunkenMistake]

it struggles to run through it, but once you get past 12.5 it continues like normal, I didnt do carb cleaner down all the little points etc, the only other thing needing done is a balance, its a lil uneasy on idle as well but I think that was my own doing when adjusting the pilot screws, no biggy there,

Im going to try get some JB weld and an air grinder and try and JB weld where its split in the float bowl around the threaded hole for the emission tube, I dont know if this is the cause of the problem, I sure hope so.
Everything that has been done on this bike, something has gone wrong afterwards haha, I think ill get this problem solved then flick it off .. the wallet is dry and if I cant afford to get it into a shop and I dont have any other means of transport :L

[koba]

it struggles to run through it, but once you get past 12.5 it continues like normal

Have you tried putting it back to how it was?
It sounds like its now running too rich, that'll be those washers.

With the repair thing do you mean the float bowl is cracked because it was screwed on the the brass tub parts poking out too far?
If this is the case carefully applied JB weld should fix it well.

[DrunkenMistake]

Have you tried putting it back to how it was?
It sounds like its now running too rich, that'll be those washers.

With the repair thing do you mean the float bowl is cracked because it was screwed on the the brass tub parts poking out too far?
If this is the case carefully applied JB weld should fix it well.

Where the main jet screws into is the emission tube, the part where the tube screws into is cracked due to the previous over tightening.
Its possible its to rich, Im going to remove the washers and give it another twirl tomorrow if I get a chance, I also have my insurance company possibly coming out to assess my fairings etc.

[koba]

Where the main jet screws into is the emission tube, the part where the tube screws into is cracked due to the previous over tightening.
Its possible its to rich, Im going to remove the washers and give it another twirl tomorrow if I get a chance, I also have my insurance company possibly coming out to assess my fairings etc.

Ahh, I see. Careful use of the JB may do it.

Make sure everything sits at the correct height.

[DrunkenMistake]

Ahh, I see. Careful use of the JB may do it.

Make sure everything sits at the correct height.

i may take it to one of my mates im a bit of a rough cunt ae haha,
wont be today as i forgot it was my bday (doh!)

[imdying]

Just done the jets on the bike,

Found that the front left emission tube has been over tightened by the previous, and has split where the thread is, so I left it like that but changed the Jet, added a 0.5mm washer to all the needles and adjusted the pilot jets, it sounds rough, and now it has a super flat spot at about 11grand to 12.5grand..
Im about ready to sell this bike on ae haha nothing but trouble.

Nothing but trouble? Maybe you should consider taking a less half arsed approach? If I found a fucked emulsion tube or carb, I'd replace it... how can you expect it to perform correctly if you're not even doing the bare basics correctly?

/edit: If ya dig? I mean, if you try to make a jam sandwich from two slices of bread and some shite, it'll always taste funny... Carbs are sensitive to small things, fix anything that's obviously wrong before worrying about fine tuning, otherwise you might spend forever on something you can't actually fix

[DrunkenMistake]

Rant.

10 Char

[imdying]

Yeah, a bit of, but I've seen a lot of people chase their tails unnecessarily, no reason you should be the next one.

[Icemaestro]

dude, I have a spare set of carbs that have bits and pieces missing, I'm happy to send stuff down if you pay postage and 5$ or something...

[DrunkenMistake]

dude, I have a spare set of carbs that have bits and pieces missing, I'm happy to send stuff down if you pay postage and 5$ or something...

That would be fantastic, I think I need the carb bodies or something like this, Will get to you next week, I have dropped it into the shop after careful consideration,
I struck a deal to pay the first 50% and then pay the rest off (thank god) while im there ill get a Dyno read out as well as a balance and tune etc, but they are going to get back to me about the carbs wither or not its repairable or needing replaced, I will PM you once I find out, thanks again man.

[DrunkenMistake]

how much do you want for the lot Man? just got off the horn I need carb bodies but I mentioned what you had just said and the fella recommended I just got the whole thing off ya

[rustys]

Koba, I'am just putting the RVF 400 back together, do you have torque settings for,
Rear axle nut.
Front axle nut.
Front fork pinch bolts.
Cheers Russ.

[DrunkenMistake]

Koba, I'am just putting the RVF 400 back together, do you have torque settings for,
Rear axle nut.
Front axle nut.
Front fork pinch bolts.
Cheers Russ.

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...manuals-online
I think there is a PDF manual for RVF's in there somewhere that will say.

[Icemaestro]

Koba, I'am just putting the RVF 400 back together, do you have torque settings for,
Rear axle nut.
Front axle nut.
Front fork pinch bolts.
Cheers Russ.

Not entirely sure so just going by Haynes manual says: steering stem nut 140nm, top yoke fork clamp bolts 11nm, rear wheel bearing holder pinch bolt 55nm. Torque settings not specified ate 5nm for 5mm bolt, 10nm for 6mm bolt, 22nm for 8mm bolt, 35nm for 10mm bolt, 55nm for 12mm bolt. Different torque settings for flange bolts and flange bolts with different sized heads. Should be in the PDF manual though

[Harvd]

Koba, I'am just putting the RVF 400 back together, do you have torque settings for,
Rear axle nut.
Front axle nut.
Front fork pinch bolts.
Cheers Russ.

From memory so others feel free to correct me

120 nm
60 nm
22 nm (???)