Tales from the Emporium

[cooneyr]

Smaller sprockets mean typically less weight¹[1] 48T KTM steel sprocket is lighter than their 42T.

What by 20 grams which is the weight of a couple of culmps of mud on the swing arm???? I suspect this falls in the same category as you small vs larger sprockets.

... and on your bike, going bigger has issues with the chain guide as already mentioned. Note that going too small on the front can cause chain guide issues on the front of the swingarm, too.

When I say bigger I mean 15 front instead of 14 and 43 instead of 41 rear - size difference 2/10ths of bugger all. 15 is better on the front for reasons that you mention and to get the gearing I want I therefore have to have a 43 rear which fits. I'd just rather have a 15/43 than 14/41 for the minuscule life improvement, the chain guide issue on the front of the swing arm and the ratio it achieves.

Cheers R

[warewolf]

What by 20 grams which is the weight of a couple of culmps of mud on the swing arm???? I suspect this falls in the same category as you small vs larger sprockets.

Yeah it does, but the numbers I saw on the wear (ie stress) differences were like 0.0005% or something similarly stupid. 20g from 200g is 10%... 5 orders of magnitude difference, so I'd rate it as more significant.

Mud on the swingarm doesn't rotate; it only gets accelerated in one direction. And you don't carry that mud with you everywhere that you go. In the bicycling world they have a saying, "an ounce on the wheel is worth a pound on the frame." You'd have to accelerate the extra weight of the drive train before you can apply that to moving the mud.

Hey I don't think you'll have any issues with the gearing at all. I'm just trying to get you to think about it!

[cooneyr]

Mud on the swingarm doesn't rotate; it only gets accelerated in one direction. And you don't carry that mud with you everywhere that you go. In the bicycling world they have a saying, "an ounce on the wheel is worth a pound on the frame." You'd have to accelerate the extra weight of the drive train before you can apply that to moving the mud.

Hey I don't think you'll have any issues with the gearing at all. I'm just trying to get you to think about it!

This is all good stuff but if I'm are going to start worrying about 20 grams of extra sprocket weight then I should uses a 520 chain instead of a 525 but lets not start that discussion again. Go the agricultural i.e. over, engineering

Thanks for the devils advocating. LOL

Cheers R

[warewolf]

This is all good stuff but if I'm are going to start worrying about 20 grams of extra sprocket weight then I should uses a 520 chain instead of a 525 but lets not start that discussion again. Go the agricultural i.e. over, engineering

Indeed.

For most of us, body & mind - physical and mental training - are the source of the best performance gains.

[Crisis management]

Indeed.

For most of us, body & mind - physical and mental training - are the source of the best performance gains.

Rubbish, it's beer.

[NordieBoy]

I'd just rather have a 15/43 than 14/41 for the minuscule life improvement, the chain guide issue on the front of the swing arm and the ratio it achieves.

And it lets you use 14/43 as well without changing the chain for climbing out of ditches

[NordieBoy]

First test of the handlebar mounted ATC2K.
Some of you will recognise the (surprise surprise) start of the Maungatapu

[Transalper]

....Some of you will recognise the (surprise surprise) start of the Maungatapu
...

Bull shit, I may have only done the Maungatapu once so far, but I clearly remember it didn't look like that.
It was much much darker and had these little red lights to follow.

[NordieBoy]

Bull shit, I may have only done the Maungatapu once so far, but I clearly remember it didn't look like that.
It was much much darker and had these little red lights to follow.

Well it's pretty dark going up the first slope until the camera wakes up to the change in the light

I think I'll try 320x200@15fps next time - 3h 34m of recording.

[Transalper]

I got to do the Maungatapu after the sun comes up sometime.

So I think I've done the best I can do on installing the Superbrace.

I bought a UFO after market DRZ400 mudguard for $40 from Superior. The Yellow is a good match too, but it is longer at the back and has no vents their which the stock one had. I'll see how it goes, maybe drill some holes later. Priced a Suzuki original DR650 front guard and it was $154 overnight delivery.

Went for a metal fender brace from Pitlane $25 although had been told they might break later with metal fatigue in the fold. But i liked the look more than the plastic version.

Also got Forkskins from Superior, about $60.

Then today i got me hands dirty and did it.
I cut about 30 to 40mm up in to the new mudguard, thats how far it needed so as the brace body and sides all meet the mudguard about the same time if bottoming.
Had to slot the fender brace mounting holes ever so slightly.
I dropped the forks out to remove the gators. Wanted to swap the front wheel for my roady one anyway so removing the wheel was half that job done there.
Slapped it all together and the final result looks like I still lose a couple of cm clearance. With the front wheel off the ground I measured top of the brace to underside of the mudguard where the two will meet and looks to have only 215mm which is still less than the full travel is supposed to be.
So i still expect to potentially be able to bottom the brace out against the mudguard before the suspension stops it but at least the wheel can not lock with this setup.
Heres some pictures, now all I want to do is give it a good field test or two.. or three or..

1- back half of the brace sitting in place, you can see where the clearance has gone.

2- gators removed, forkskins on and clamped top and botton to hopefully keep out any crap.

3- new mudguard with its slots in it sitting over the Superbrace.

4 and 5- comparing to Js stock DR but hers is in the lowered position.

6 my one in all its latest state.

[NordieBoy]

One way to check would be to undo the fork caps, remove the pre-load spacer and slowly push the wheel up as far as it could go.
I cant remember how close mine got to the guard when I did this whilst measuring the oil level for the new springs.

[Transalper]

that pushes the springs out the top, is that right?
If so then you are not taking in to account that the springs take up space and so by releasing them your suspension will travel further than it could when you are riding it.

Good thing i'm a light weight, i'll be trying to bottom it out on the road on Sunday. Just going to hit a big speed bump while on brakes should let me know if it's going to be an issue. Might have to move new springs up the priority list.
The old transalp only got 200mm travel, never bottomed that anyway.

[pete376403]

Probably not - your forks should be hitting the bump stops before the springs are coil bound.

[pete376403]

This is all good stuff but if I'm are going to start worrying about 20 grams of extra sprocket weight then I should uses a 520 chain instead of a 525 but lets not start that discussion again. Go the agricultural i.e. over, engineering

Thanks for the devils advocating. LOL

Cheers R

Have a good shit before going riding - gets rid of weight and makes you feel better

[NordieBoy]

Good thing i'm a light weight, i'll be trying to bottom it out on the road on Sunday. Just going to hit a big speed bump while on brakes should let me know if it's going to be an issue. Might have to move new springs up the priority list.
The old transalp only got 200mm travel, never bottomed that anyway.

If you can, take one of the skins off and put a zip-tie around the fork tube.
Good for seeing how much travel you use.