The Bucket Foundry

[Flettner]

I just worked it out via the exhaust port timing (for length) and tapers were my generic chamber design calculation :msn-wink:
One issue I see (forgot about) is the outlets from the pipes are large, was going to fit inserts in the pipes. That could be why the pipes don't seem to be working very well?
2 x outlets at 19mm (125), far too big!

[husaberg]

I just worked it out via the exhaust port timing (for length) and tapers were my generic chamber design calculation :msn-wink:
One issue I see (forgot about) is the outlets from the pipes are large, was going to fit inserts in the pipes. That could be why the pipes don't seem to be working very well?
2 x outlets at 19mm (125), far too big!

I occasionally come up with an idea.
Go back a page.
Frits would be able to anwser, or at least a educated guess but with a twin exit single should they be half the volume and working sizes ID's of a normal 125?
Or is there some other rule of thumb.
Does it have a decent power spead anyway?

[Frits Overmars]

Frits would be able to anwser, or at least a educated guess but with a twin exit single should they be half the volume and working sizes ID's of a normal 125?
Or is there some other rule of thumb?With a cylinder capacity of 62,5 cc per pipe, you just calculate a pipe for a 62,5 cc engine, simple as that.
The end restrictor diameters should be about 15 mm each. Go bigger if the engine gets too hot.

[husaberg]

With a cubic capacity of 62,5 cc per pipe, you just calculate a pipe for a 62,5 cc engine, simple as that.
The end restrictor diameters should be about 15 mm each. Go bigger if the engine gets to hot.

Chairs.............

[breezy]

Chairs.............

tables.....;)

[WilDun]

And lets not start talking s***t by mentioning stools! - lets just stick to pipes. :msn-wink: (wasn't me,- it was Husa started it!).
Cheers

[Flettner]

Does it have a decent power spead anyway?

It's interesting, it doesn't fourstroke at all like a normal twostroke. it reminds me a lot of my uniflow engines with a linear power delivery. The uniflows didn't run chambers as such though, this sleeve engine does have a sort of a power band. It doesn't seem to have a lot of power (maybe 15HP, Ryger need not worry) but it will rev out (just like not having a chamber), I've adjusted the timing a little and will manufacture some exhaust inserts. I think I've still got Gerbalgronks Go Pro so I'll have a go at videoing the next run so long as it doesn't poo itself.
It's running CR250 V Force reeds (don't ask, they were just available) and has a massive (volume) crank case, I'm sure these don't help.
I'm not to disappointed I do remember the 350 when it first started out being real gutless, so with a bit of time we might see 20HP!:2thumbsup

[Frits Overmars]

with a bit of time we might see 20HP!Then I've been 'a little' to optimistic regarding the power and a bit too careful regarding the restrictor diameters. If you make them 12 mm, you should be safe till 30 HP.

[Flettner]

Frits, a builder of stuff I might be but a tuner I am not.
It will take me a while, I get there usually but it always takes time.
I do have this dyno here but finishing that is a project in itself!

[husaberg]

tables.....;)

Suite (probably only makes sense to a kiwi)


It's interesting, it doesn't fourstroke at all like a normal twostroke. it reminds me a lot of my uniflow engines with a linear power delivery. The uniflows didn't run chambers as such though, this sleeve engine does have a sort of a power band. It doesn't seem to have a lot of power (maybe 15HP, Ryger need not worry) but it will rev out (just like not having a chamber), I've adjusted the timing a little and will manufacture some exhaust inserts. I think I've still got Gerbalgronks Go Pro so I'll have a go at videoing the next run so long as it doesn't poo itself.
It's running CR250 V Force reeds (don't ask, they were just available) and has a massive (volume) crank case, I'm sure these don't help.
I'm not to disappointed I do remember the 350 when it first started out being real gutless, so with a bit of time we might see 20HP!:2thumbsup

If it doesn't four stroke that s pretty cool in itself.
Plus it can still be supercharged.........

[Flettner]

Suite (probably only makes sense to a kiwi)



If it doesn't four stroke that s pretty cool in itself.
Plus it can still be supercharged.........

It is supercharged, pulse charged.
Well a subsequent ride has shown ----- nothing, runs the same, maybe 16HP?
Can't be mechanically supercharged until I change the exhaust port timing (phasing).

[husaberg]

It is supercharged, pulse charged.
Well a subsequent ride has shown ----- nothing, runs the same, maybe 16HP?
Can't be mechanically supercharged until I change the exhaust port timing (phasing).

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/27/c5/d1/27c5d1ada631c43981bedae25274c4aa.gif
I am happy to provide ther road Roadranger button.

[Flettner]

Might try leaning it out a little as I remember the uniflow engines could be quite rich and still run clean, but gutless.

[breezy]

Might try leaning it out a little as I remember the uniflow engines could be quite rich and still run clean, but gutless.

hi Flettner, good work as usual and interesting. Maybe the amount of exhaust port area is too much for the 125 and your losing the pulse strength making the engine feel lack luster and no real power band. Perhaps seal off one of the exhaust port outlets for now as an experiment.

[Flettner]

hi Flettner, good work as usual and interesting. Maybe the amount of exhaust port area is too much for the 125 and your losing the pulse strength making the engine feel lack luster and no real power band. Perhaps seal off one of the exhaust port outlets for now as an experiment.
You might well be right! It does have the port area to rev all to hell. But probably not the mechanical strength to do So? And yes that is good idea to try, nice and easy.

[Frits Overmars]

It does have the port area to rev all to hell. But probably not the mechanical strength to do So?You too may well be right, Neil. But you have a second variant up your sleeve, haven't you? How is the sleeveless version coming along?

[Flettner]

You too may well be right, Neil. But you have a second variant up your sleeve, haven't you? How is the sleeveless version coming along?

I'll show you mine if you show me yours;)
But seriously, I'm relying on Ken to come up with some numbers soon on that cylinder. Progress on my cylinder has stopped (FOS slider).
But wait, there is more. There are three cylinders set to try,

1 the fixed FOS designed to be run on a ryger type bottom end (high pressure), injected. Cast but a fuck up so will be recasting soon ( not the Luc type of soon either)

2 a sliding version of a standard cylinder where the transfers are able to shut right off (throttling by transfers and an exhaust valve) (of sorts). On a standard crank case. Injected. In process of pattern making.

3 a new version of standard type cylinder that will also run on a Ryger type bottom end but the transfers are the inlets as well, reed, two carbs and two reed blocks. Transfers are so short (short piston) that the inlet cavities become
the transfers as such. In process of pattern making.

This all relies on building a sound bottom end, be it leaver arm type or epicyclic, both are built but waiting on the 7075 parts to come back from the US.
Also my rough and ready furnace in in for a rebuild, new lining.
And to help things along (cost wise) Ken has sent me some cast iron sleeves. I don't like cast iron sleeves but they will be a cheap alternative for a first up try. If by some miracle a cylinder shows promise it will be repeated in Nikacil. Sound fair?

This sleeve engine is a bit of a distraction but never the less interesting.

[Frits Overmars]

I'm relying on Ken to come up with some numbers soon on that cylinder. Progress on my cylinder has stopped (FOS slider). But wait, there is more. There are three cylinders set to try

1 the fixed FOS designed to be run on a ryger type bottom end (high pressure), injected. Cast but a fuck up so will be recasting soon ( not the Luc type of soon either)

2 a sliding version of a standard cylinder where the transfers are able to shut right off (throttling by transfers and an exhaust valve) (of sorts). On a standard crank case. Injected. In process of pattern making.

3 a new version of standard type cylinder that will also run on a Ryger type bottom end but the transfers are the inlets as well, reed, two carbs and two reed blocks. Transfers are so short (short piston) that the inlet cavities become the transfers as such. In process of pattern making.

This all relies on building a sound bottom end, be it leaver arm type or epicyclic, both are built but waiting on the 7075 parts to come back from the US.
Also my rough and ready furnace in in for a rebuild, new lining. And to help things along (cost wise) Ken has sent me some cast iron sleeves. I don't like cast iron sleeves but they will be a cheap alternative for a first up try. If by some miracle a cylinder shows promise it will be repeated in Nikacil. Sound fair?Fair enough. Too bad that there is a whole globe between your place and mine; I would have loved to come and play.
May I express my preference for the epicyclic crank over the lever arm? Just think how low the engine could become and how simple it would be to build a really compact 180° twin (we can't call it a boxer because the pistons won't move against each other).

[Flettner]

Perhaps a trip is in order. Just climb into Wobblys suit case.
I'm just interested in what will work long enough and well enough to prove a point. They will both be tested.

[ken seeber]

Engine coolant radiator mounted. Actually it’s a spanker for a Nissan Patrol. We got a couple, but all were from the same shipment from you-know-where and all were rooted cos they were all crushed in a parallelogram fashion, such that they wouldn’t fit in the vehicle. Distributor gave money back and said don’t bother sending them back. Perfect.

330243

Possibly a tad large, with a yet to be fitted fan, but when you have to deal with 71 * (106/125) engine hp, you need something large. :killingme

Weekend activity will be the throttle and coolant routing.

[WilDun]

Engine coolant radiator mounted. .......... Possibly a tad large, with a yet to be fitted fan, but when you have to deal with 71 * (106/125) engine hp, you need something large.

A tad.....A TAD! - and you reckon you need to use a fan with that thing? :laugh:

[Grumph]

A tad.....A TAD! - and you reckon you need to use a fan with that thing? :laugh:

It's WA, Will - think of it as a heat exchanger and realise the warmup probably won't be neccessary...

Shed temp over 40deg ?

[WilDun]

It's WA, Will - think of it as a heat exchanger and realise the warmup probably won't be neccessary...

Shed temp over 40deg ?

Well, never thought of that, I've never experienced anything over 30deg! - seldom over about 28deg up here in Auckland - sometimes humid though but nothing severe. The South Island gets temperatures much higher than us (even though it is much nearer Antartica!).

Ken, glad to see you still persevering with the slider and I hope it bears fruit and.........it's ok to use a fan if you wish!

[Grumph]

High plains Canterbury and even though it hasn't been a very good summer, my shed's been over 40 deg a couple of times.
I just walk slowly indoors and sit in the cool. Too old for that sort of heat now.

[husaberg]

Well, never thought of that, I've never experienced anything over 30deg! - seldom over about 28deg up here in Auckland - sometimes humid though but nothing severe. The South Island gets temperatures much higher than us (even though it is much nearer Antartica!).
Glad to see you still persevering with the slider and I hope it bears fruit and.........it's ok to use a fan if you wish!

Shit Will we get over 40 just down the road from here regulariy in summer with high humidity as well. (not this summer though)
to be fair though, that same valley can get down to -12 in winter.
that reallly takes you breath away.
the further south you go the longer the day length is in summer opposite in winter though.

[WilDun]

Shit Will we get over 40 just down the road from here regulariy in summer with high humidity as well. (not this summer though)
to be fair though, that same valley can get down to -12 in winter.
that reallly takes you breath away.
the further south you go the longer the day length is in summer opposite in winter though.

We get less than a week of light frost each year also, never officially under zero deg. and..... nestled under the Maungarei volcano (Mt Wellington) is the Mt Wellington kart track! we've got everything (including 48 or so volcanoes!) - wonderful place Auckland, volcanic paradise! :laugh:

Hang on! this all started because Ken was describing his test bed setup!! - sorry Ken. :facepalm:

[WilDun]

Not much on the foundry front at the moment and the backbone of the thread (Flettner) hasn't got much time to keep it going by himself!

I have been able to put in one or two posts on the foundry stuff in the past, but family life has taken over and the pressure on me has become too great - at one stage I thought that I'd have to quit altogether, but I have been (conditionally) reprieved and given the chance to downsize yet again (lucky me!).

So I will be working in a space of 5m x 2m, but it won't be totally cramped as it seems that I will be getting rid of my life collection of junk (so called by some). Neil can testify as to just how cramped it actually was before, so maybe I should comply! Of course the foundry will be operating outside but there is not a helluva lot of space out there either, luckily I've got good neighbours!

I will keep my tiny lathe, pedestal drill, grinder, hacksaw, bandsaw and scroll saw, engraver, welders, not forgetting my furnace and essential equipment needed for that! plus all the other supporting crap, half of it will be under the bench of course ...... maybe it will still be cramped!
I just can't quit, but I need to be able to move, so everything will have to be super organized, something which I'm not great at!

Hope I will soon have the chance to do a couple of posts on what I have managed to cast.

[Grumph]

That Neil gets around doesn't he - likes to put a face to the name. Watch out Frits.

Two moves back I was working out of a space around 5 X 2m - with a bench down one side holding the lathe and drill press.

Built a Domiracer and an F3 bike in there....

[WilDun]

........I was working out of a space around 5 X 2m - with a bench down one side holding the lathe and drill press.
Built a Domiracer and an F3 bike in there....

There you go, there's hope for me yet ....... but I've got to start making plans for a workshop when I move into the rest home! - how about the excuse of mobility scooter repairs? - some people can demand prayer rooms (and get them), so why not a workshop? - uh yeah, that's right ........OSH! :rolleyes:

[Flettner]

That Neil gets around doesn't he - likes to put a face to the name. Watch out Frits.

Two moves back I was working out of a space around 5 X 2m - with a bench down one side holding the lathe and drill press.

Built a Domiracer and an F3 bike in there....

I like to know what I'm dealing with:D

[Flettner]

:niceone:
There you go, there's hope for me yet ....... but I've got to start making plans for a workshop when I move into the rest home! - some people can demand prayer rooms (and get them), so why not a workshop? - uh yeah, that's right ........OSH! :rolleyes:

Fuck OSH, Will !!
Tell them it's a pleasure room

[WilDun]

I like to know what I'm dealing with:D

I haven't had a report back as yet! but I'll call in and you can interview me (some of these days, but God knows when I'll make it!)
Most people who know me from way back still don't understand what they've struck!
As for Frits, well he'll just have to wait his turn! :laugh:

[Frits Overmars]

That Neil gets around doesn't he - likes to put a face to the name. Watch out Frits.Looking forward to it :wings:

[Grumph]

There you go, there's hope for me yet ....... but I've got to start making plans for a workshop when I move into the rest home! - how about the excuse of mobility scooter repairs? - some people can demand prayer rooms (and get them), so why not a workshop? - uh yeah, that's right ........OSH! :rolleyes:

An ex racer of my father's generation here in Chch, arranged for the use of a garage space when he moved into a retirement home. Restored two bikes that I know of while living there. I understand that he occasionally took the female home manager out for a ride on one of them, much to the amusement of her staff.
Done properly Will, you may finish up with more space than you have now.

[WilDun]

I understand that he occasionally took the female home manager out for a ride on one of them, much to the amusement of her staff.
Done properly Will, you may finish up with more space than you have now.

Yes plenty of girlfriends too I imagine! - my hopes (if nothing else) have been raised - Problem is, I'm not really supposed to get on a motorcycle anymore - not only because it might be unsafe but because I find it hard to get a leg over (ie the bike) these days. :facepalm:

[F5 Dave]

Italjet Dragster scooter for you then. 180cc 2 stroke from memory. Not that I've ever seen one ( or probably noticed if I did- bloody snob that I am)

[WilDun]

Italjet Dragster scooter for you then. 180cc 2 stroke from memory. Not that I've ever seen one ( or probably noticed if I did- bloody snob that I am)

Is it a three wheeler? two wheels are dangerous (that's what I was always told, not that I paid much attention!) and dragsters are no good, you don't get that centrifugal force on corners - so probably I could sneak an engine (two stroke of course!) into a mobility scooter.......foundry at the rest home? ....... Someone said dreaming's free, can't remember who!

[ken seeber]

Slider update.
Every time I look at it, I find more things to do. Anyways, at the moment, it is a Sat morning only exercise. All hosed up, made an adapter for the pulse generator (cheap as chups ;)from you know where) for the dyno shaft, lever arm for the cylinder height actuation arm and lockable throttle cable arm lever in place. Concept is that it will be a low pressure cooling system (want to minimise any possibility of internal coolant leaks) and long term, with the temp being controlled by cooling fan (not there as yet) which will be speed controlled, probably via an Arduino using coolant out temp as the controlling input. The red bin might be possibly used as a wet sump for the dyno cooling system.

So, all going well, should be able to give it a crack pretty soon under no load conditions, and if all good, then get the dyno & its software sorted and go for it baby.

330511330512330513

[F5 Dave]

Here you go Will, sort of looks a bit mobility scooter

https://www.google.co.nz/search?hl=en-NZ&ie=UTF-8&source=android-browser&q=italjet+dragster&gfe_rd=cr&ei=GyAEWf2iDMbN8gfu6ZfABg&gws_rd=ssl#gfe_rd=cr&gws_rd=ssl&imgrc=B85v1QFw0xy7dM:

[WilDun]

Here you go Will, sort of looks a bit mobility scooter

Riding on two wheels? no way, too dangerous for me, I'm on borrowed time already - twice over, one more fall and it would be curtains for me I'm afraid! I bought a push bike a couple of years ago but didn't feel secure on it at all! - I sold it at the end of last year.

One Chinese guy was offering free trials on his little scooters so as I hadn't ridden for years I presented myself for a ride on one of his machines.
He took one look at me and must've decided I had escaped from somewhere and insisted on the phone# for someone to vouch for me. So I rang my wife and she ok'ed it and he reluctantly allowed me to ride the thing - but I decided it was not for me, as I found (and I hadn't realized before) that in order to lean into a corner you had to be able to look into the corner and I couldn't do that because my neck is fully frozen! ....... you sure take all these things for granted without even thinking when you're healthy..... In saying that, I did enjoy the fact that I had ridden a motorcycle again (albeit briefly but without having to throw my leg over!).
Anyway, I didn't really care what he thought because I'm used to that sort of treatment - some (nice) people have even offered to help me across the road and called me "dear" :rolleyes: .......gerrrroff!

........but seriously, y'know it's actually quite interesting the innovative thinking that goes into these little machines, some of them are quite sophisticated in the ingenious ways they have found to pack things into such a small space - the Space Frames, one sided suspension, exhaust pipe routing, etc. etc. all add up to a quite a neat little package with quite a punch as well no doubt.

BTW, KEN Looks like it's all coming along fine!

[ken seeber]

Thinking of you this arvo Willy when we had a bit of a family do and the son-in-law came around with his latest mobility scooter. He chose it because you can (eventually) stick it in the boot of a mid size car. Obviously it needed to be road tested. Power level is fit for purpose and all generally ok other than the fact that the “throttle” twistgrip works in reverse.

Leads to interesting events until one re-programmes the mind. However there is some logic to it, particularly when one watches some epic fails of dudes on bikes which wheelie back too far. Their instinctive reaction is to just hang on, inevitably opening the throttle further, bringing forward the failure mode. I guess this is why some quads us thumb actuated throttles.

330523

[Grumph]

Seat attatchment looks a tad flimsy for us larger pensioners...Will it wheelie ?

[WilDun]

........ He chose it because you can (eventually) stick it in the boot of a mid size car. Obviously it needed to be road tested.

Well Ken it's good to see you in training for the future, (It's ok, we understand) - how about a "slider" in that cavernous battery space? beats sitting on a dynamometer, makes testing a pleasure! - just be careful braking hard into a corner - use plenty of body lean!

I bought an old scooter a couple of months ago - it had big time "toe out" and one of the front tyres was almost scrubbed to death, (some well meaning "would be" scooter mechanic had tried to "adjust" the steering! but I eventually got it all fairly well sorted.
Reason I bought it was because the whole body was a plastic moulding and so was good down around the beach and another plus was that the whole thing twisted and conformed to the terrain, acting as suspension (like a kart really but higher) and was a very smooth ride over the bumps - a freaky feeling at first, sort of like a wet sausage really - (or a Mk 4 Zephyr!) but once it became familiar it was great, it could even run off a kerb without too much drama!
However, that freaky feeling was probably what put a lot of old people off and contributed to its lack of popularity!

Now what has all this got to do with foundry work? - I dunno really, except that I was wanting to check out my son's little old place at the beach as a possible future setting for some serious (and peaceful) foundry work ....... but I don't know how to approach him about it!

[Grumph]

Just ask for the key - and tell him you want to take a girlfriend there. He won't want any more information.....

[WilDun]

Just ask for the key - and tell him you want to take a girlfriend there. He won't want any more information.....

Yes, these things pass through your mind of course, - you could get yourself into a lot of trouble with a furnace but that problem could be dealt with, a girlfriend on the other hand might be a little more difficult!
Anyway, he'd think that was the joke of the century! :killingme

Just saw on the "race chassis" thread - Neil (Flettner) reckons it would be quite feasible to do a cast ally bucket frame.

[Frits Overmars]

Riding on two wheels? no way, too dangerous for me!Found just the thing for you then:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XTrlnxslYrY

[husaberg]

330559330560330562330563330564

[Grumph]

Where did you find that lot ? In the pic with the starter pieces, there's a cambox top with a 3 lobe cam. It's either a survivor from the 5 valve engine or a single part. Same pic, there's one of the injector bodies cast in the black CF resin material. Same bit in alloy would be about .5kg - that will be feather light in the CF. I'm reliably told that none of the patterns exist now.
In the pic with the wheel mould and the pattern for the boom box there's a lower crankcase casting. I know one was salvaged from the "museum" so that's probably it. It was a bad casting with a couple of big voids. It's now repaired and in Kevin Grant's engine.

[Michael Moore]

Greg, there was a Britten twin racing at the AHRMA races at Sears Point this past week. I didn't think to ask which number bike it was.

[WilDun]

Found just the thing for you then:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XTrlnxslYrY

Love it! - that's definitely me! except that I wouldn't be able to find the icy conditions.
Would hate to think what the reception at the hospital would be like, especially from the surgeons who rebuilt me! :shit:

Maybe one with B&S power and a trailer (for my furnace) would be safer.

Husa, Grumph,
I had heard of the five valve head but never heard the results of any tests done with it. Obviously like Yamaha/Toyota heads, I guess there were some issues around having 5 valves??
I remember reading the book when it came out and maybe I didn't pay enough attention - think I was in hospital at the time!

[guyhockley]

Found just the thing for you then:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XTrlnxslYrY

Meanwhile, in sunny england...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zy5rkw4SeP4

[Grumph]

Greg, there was a Britten twin racing at the AHRMA races at Sears Point this past week. I didn't think to ask which number bike it was.

While I know a couple of customer bikes have been given "birthdays" by Rob Selby in the past few years, I don't know if any of them have been brought out and run.. The only one which does get aired frequently is Kevin Grant's one, based here in NZ.
Actually racing - or being demonstrated ?

The 5 valve was a bit of a blind alley. At the time it was done, the rest of the on board systems weren't up to the sophistication needed. If I remember the timeline right, it didn't have a programmable ignition - which a 5 valve head needs badly. There was some miscommunication within the team too - the heads were done with the valves sitting in the radiused pockets which worked on the 4V, but the guy who'd designed it on the flowbench apparently wanted the valves sitting flush with the chamber. When John showed a 5V head to me he was a bit annoyed at that, but it was his fault anyway.
From all I've heard it wasn't as good on the dyno as everyone expected so when it blew, it was shelved.

If we'd known you were going to be at Sears Point, Michael, you could have had a chat with Swarfie on here. Nev Mickelson was there riding I think, a Velo and something else.

[Flettner]

Looking forward to it :wings:

Frits, got your accommodation sorted for you when you are out here.:laugh:

[Michael Moore]

Greg, the Britten was going out in practices so I presumed it was being raced. There was what looked like a pre-war cammy Velo, rigid frame/girder forks, presumably a 350 KTT.

I don't pay much attention to the bikes any more, too much "seen that already, ho hum" at this point. I went up to say hello to my friends from out of town I only see once a year at the race and after watching one of them run away with the 200GP race I called it a day and headed home to beat the after-work traffic.

[husaberg]

Greg, the Britten was going out in practices so I presumed it was being raced. There was what looked like a pre-war cammy Velo, rigid frame/girder forks, presumably a 350 KTT.

I don't pay much attention to the bikes any more, too much "seen that already, ho hum" at this point. I went up to say hello to my friends from out of town I only see once a year at the race and after watching one of them run away with the 200GP race I called it a day and headed home to beat the after-work traffic.

It will likely be Jim Hunters Massachusetts
or Dr Mark Stewart Michigan
or Michael Canepa California

The other two that are in the states have never been started or raced as far as i know.
Michael Iannuncci Las Vegas
George Barber Museum


Three are in NZ Kevin Grant, Te papa and one owned by the Britten familly and Gil Simpson.

One was in South Africa, Gary Turner
One in Italy, Roberto Crepaldi

Oh Michael in regards to Hossack front end, John did indeed concede thats where it came from he admiried Normans work greatly, only he didn't like its messy appearance.

While I know a couple of customer bikes have been given "birthdays" by Rob Selby in the past few years, I don't know if any of them have been brought out and run.. The only one which does get aired frequently is Kevin Grant's one, based here in NZ.
Actually racing - or being demonstrated ?

The 5 valve was a bit of a blind alley. At the time it was done, the rest of the on board systems weren't up to the sophistication needed. If I remember the timeline right, it didn't have a programmable ignition - which a 5 valve head needs badly. There was some miscommunication within the team too - the heads were done with the valves sitting in the radiused pockets which worked on the 4V, but the guy who'd designed it on the flowbench apparently wanted the valves sitting flush with the chamber. When John showed a 5V head to me he was a bit annoyed at that, but it was his fault anyway.
From all I've heard it wasn't as good on the dyno as everyone expected so when it blew, it was shelved.

If we'd known you were going to be at Sears Point, Michael, you could have had a chat with Swarfie on here. Nev Mickelson was there riding I think, a Velo and something else.
What started as the 5V bike is in italy in its third incarnation 1100 5V twin belt 985 and then 996 single belt, it won the NZ gp and was the only britten to have finished at the IOM.
It was for years the Factory Race team Britten race bike.

I am not sure but i think Hans Weekers did the 5V head He was on leave from Yamaha Europe (GP i think )
He did do the the highly successful improved 4V head anyway. working with plasicine and clay on the flow bench from a dummy head that was bsically just valve seats Rob Selby made.

Where did you find that lot ? In the pic with the starter pieces, there's a cambox top with a 3 lobe cam. It's either a survivor from the 5 valve engine or a single part. Same pic, there's one of the injector bodies cast in the black CF resin material. Same bit in alloy would be about .5kg - that will be feather light in the CF. I'm reliably told that none of the patterns exist now.
In the pic with the wheel mould and the pattern for the boom box there's a lower crankcase casting. I know one was salvaged from the "museum" so that's probably it. It was a bad casting with a couple of big voids. It's now repaired and in Kevin Grant's engine.
It could be from the 6v single as well, i never noticed it.
Oh the part pics and patterns are from somewhere but i am not saying where.:clap:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3LJjYFI5Z0
but the single pic is from the building that is no longer a building and the first with John with the patern is from a book i had. in hindsight it looks to be the precussor twin.
as it looks like both EX face forward
Ie Gary Goodfellow barn door model.
http://www.docc.ca/flashback/britten87.jpg

[Frits Overmars]

Frits, got your accommodation sorted for you when you are out here.:laugh:That's great! Now I need to talk to the missus....


I don't pay much attention to the bikes any more, too much "seen that already, ho hum" at this point. I went up to say hello to my friends from out of town I only see once a year at the race and after watching one of them run away with the 200GP race I called it a day and headed home to beat the after-work traffic.That is exactly how I go about it too, Michael.

[Michael Moore]

Frits, I enjoy seeing something new to me, whether it is a DIY job or rare factory piece. But "the same old stuff" I've seen before isn't as interesting these days, even if it is a Britten or Honda 250-6.

I've never had much interest in watching other people race. I can't relate to watching anyone riding at or above a fast club racer speed, it is so far beyond my capabilities, it may as well be magic/movie special effects. If I'm not riding (or going for the social aspects) there's little reason to go and stand around watching other people having fun.

cheers,
Michael

[Grumph]

Frits, I enjoy seeing something new to me, whether it is a DIY job or rare factory piece. But "the same old stuff" I've seen before isn't as interesting these days, even if it is a Britten or Honda 250-6.

I've never had much interest in watching other people race. I can't relate to watching anyone riding at or above a fast club racer speed, it is so far beyond my capabilities, it may as well be magic/movie special effects. If I'm not riding (or going for the social aspects) there's little reason to go and stand around watching other people having fun.

cheers,
Michael

Of the two big bike meetings locally, the NZGP and the BEARS Sound of Thunder, I only go on practise day. Lets me talk to those I need to see without pressure. I've even stopped going to the big Classic car meeting here as for each of the first 3 years it ran, I wound up sorting someone's damm car.

[Flettner]

This is old stuff but I'm just showing the process again.
As I'm having to do some changes to the sand mold, thicker boss for the power valve slot.
Starts off as a wood shape of the water core.
Then transfrred to a wood / resin mold.
This is then copy cast into an aluminium mold.
The metal mould is necessary so as to use shell hot set sand. This sand core would be too flimsy using CO2 set sand. Shell sand core is much stronger for these thin sections. The two core halves are glued together in the cylinder sand mold when assembling.

[Flettner]

This is the modified part. This is a removable section of the die. This takes sand away leaving a solid boss in the casting, so I can machine a slot for the power valve.

[Flettner]

Oops, this is why I need a bigger boss for the power valve slot.

[chrisc]

I believe this crowd, the Fibreglass shop, was the supplier of Vinamold in NZ. Tried to get some through them and got this reply:
330601

Might get some online from overseas if they still can supply it. Thought I'd give you lads the heads up

[F5 Dave]

I think that's where I got mine. Can't read that attachment but assume it says make sure Dave doesn't give any more away.

[WilDun]

I believe this crowd, the Fibreglass shop, was the supplier of Vinamold in NZ. Tried to get some through them and got this reply:

Might get some online from overseas if they still can supply it. Thought I'd give you lads the heads up

Do you mean they might? They said last time I bought some (around late 2015) that they were going to change to a better one from Germany, but looks like that hasn't materialized as yet!

[husaberg]

I believe this crowd, the Fibreglass shop, was the supplier of Vinamold in NZ. Tried to get some through them and got this reply:
330601

Might get some online from overseas if they still can supply it. Thought I'd give you lads the heads up

http://www.mbfg.co.uk/vinamold.html

[chrisc]

http://www.mbfg.co.uk/vinamold.html

They don't ship internationally. Haven't been able to find someone who does -_-

[husaberg]

They don't ship internationally. Haven't been able to find someone who does -_-

Guy Hockley

I slightly

[guyhockley]

Huh! Do what? Or where you suggesting me as a possible source/shipper of Vinamold. I'm willing to look into it, but posted some parcels to other english addresses, today, and got a third degree about what was in them...

[chrisc]

Huh! Do what? Or where you suggesting me as a possible source/shipper of Vinamold. I'm willing to look into it, but posted some parcels to other english addresses, today, and got a third degree about what was in them...

Yeah I think that's what Husa was suggested. I'd be very grateful!

I remember Frits mentioning it's the best he had used, and also having seen it used here, which is why I'm specifically after Vinamold. There are alternatives however.
Here's a product called Composimold being used by a Thomas H who appears to cruise this forum, if not only the ESE thread. It's far more expensive though at $66NZD + $30 shipping for 20oz of the stuff -_-

http://bucketracing.blogspot.co.nz/2017/01/port-molds-with-composimold.html
https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xXoJKt0qIGw/WI5B3c9h3zI/AAAAAAAAAfs/IW5qOcnbqg0ULUYPwarY6ArSSr65ZPM5wCLcB/s400/Port_Molds3.jpg

[husaberg]

Huh! Do what? Or where you suggesting me as a possible source/shipper of Vinamold. I'm willing to look into it, but posted some parcels to other english addresses, today, and got a third degree about what was in them...

He hehhehehehe
Just a address to onship from really, For companies that don't do international shipping.
JasonU is the American agent, you could be the english version.:laugh:
Think of it as an exciting opportunity to enter the world of international freight forwarding.

[F5 Dave]

Haven't you guys heard of YouShop?

[guyhockley]

He hehhehehehe
Just a address to onship from really, For companies that don't do international shipping.
JasonU is the American agent, you could be the english version.:laugh:
Think of it as an exciting opportunity to enter the world of international freight forwarding.
Absolutely fine by me. Paypal should make that sort of thing much easier, I guess.
I've just had the Mike Sinclair book shipped to me from NZ, so I should return the favour. :2thumbsup
Unfortunately, the company I am dealing with for my composite stuff don't do Vinamold, so no trade discount, but I'm interested to try it, myself, as I've only used bath sealant and "mould rubber" from Vosschemie in Belgium (although they are a german company, I think).

[guyhockley]

snip
There are alternatives however.
Here's a product called Composimold being used by a Thomas H who appears to cruise this forum, if not only the ESE thread. It's far more expensive though at $66NZD + $30 shipping for 20oz of the stuff -_-snip
This stuff? http://www.hobbycraft.co.uk/shesto-composi-mould-480-ml/611780-1000
I'm finding Vinamold at less than £10 a kilo/litre in England so nearly 4 times more expensive!

[Michael Moore]

http://www.conservationresources.com/Main/section_38/section38_08.htm

is where I bought my Vinamold from here in the USA. I don't see any mention on their website of them shipping outside the country.

I use a Pyrex measuring cup in a small microwave oven to melt it. I do it outside as it gets stinky, and it is best to do short bursts of power and once it starts to melt stir it between power cycles to even it out.

[190mech]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/262005385275?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[F5 Dave]

Every kiwi will have a BBQ outside.
Teflon fry pans need replacement every few years. Go look at yourself. Old ones make perfect vessels.

[husaberg]

Absolutely fine by me. Paypal should make that sort of thing much easier, I guess.
I've just had the Mike Sinclair book shipped to me from NZ, so I should return the favour. :2thumbsup
Unfortunately, the company I am dealing with for my composite stuff don't do Vinamold, so no trade discount, but I'm interested to try it, myself, as I've only used bath sealant and "mould rubber" from Vosschemie in Belgium (although they are a german company, I think).

Is the stuff you use reusable?

[guyhockley]

No, two part material - main component plus a catalyst. Vinamold sounds much better, I've ordered some!

[guyhockley]

Google.co.uk came up with:

Vinamold - Best Value - - Direct from the manufacturer‎ (http://www.extruflexonline.co.uk/vinamold.html)Ad<cite class="_WGk">www.extruflexonline.co.uk/vinamold</cite>‎
Large UK Vinamold Stocks, 24 Hr Delivery

4 hardness types?

I thought Vinamold was american.

[F5 Dave]

I used the beige/grey sort of one, maybe natural. Seemed to work well. Clran bore and duct tape transfers. Squirt of silicon spray in ducts. Pour and cure. Can even top up. Then it will wiggle out with some jiggering. Leaving something at the top gives you a bit to grab onto and keeps the transfer pairs together.

[ken seeber]

OK you blokes chasing Vinamould, here’s the stuff we use. For you kiwi types, it’s “cheap as chups” (:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:) around $100 for the 3 kg.

330857330858330859

Looked up your local contact:

Barnes NZ - Henderson, Auckland
B92-94 Railside Ave, Henderson, 0612 Auckland.
T: 09 973 1816
E: glen@barnesnz.co.nz


Isn’t anyone casting anything? It’s getting quiet here.:crybaby:

[Flettner]

There is a little family of spiders living in my furnace
Would hate to evict them, with the housing crisis and all.

[guyhockley]

OK you blokes chasing Vinamould, here’s the stuff we use. For you kiwi types, it’s “cheap as chups” (:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:) around $100 for the 3 kg.

Looked up your local contact:

Barnes NZ - Henderson, Auckland
B92-94 Railside Ave, Henderson, 0612 Auckland.
T: 09 973 1816
E: glen@barnesnz.co.nz


Thought the OP wanted to try Vinamold (red?) because Frits said it was the best stuff he'd used?
I actually ordered 2 x 1kg lots - 1 definitely for me, the other possibly for shipping to NZ. Then I got annoyed that delivery charges doubled the cost, so I cancelled the order. Can't find a local supplier but we're off to babysit the grandkids, next weekend, and the supplier my daughter used when she was doing theatre props is kind of on the way, so planning to stop off and pick some up.
http://www.tiranti.co.uk/EdgeImpactShop/subcatdivision.php?Division=502&Content=Vinamold

[WilDun]

There is a little family of spiders living in my furnace
Would hate to evict them, with the housing crisis and all.

Try to coax them out for the day (with a vacuum cleaner) do your casting and then empty the bag into the furnace, ...... a nice warm home to return to - is there a housing crisis down there too?

[ken seeber]

Slider update.

Well, spent a lot of time getting the actual dyno outputs &B software to do even anything. Think the new encoder is ok, but no signal from strain gauge as yet.
The Grand Plan Sam is at least initially to do an unloaded run to see what falls off.
Then hopefully get the load cell to output and do some sort of constant speed run with varying cylinder heights, even at a relatively low rpm, say 6k.
Gotta do this before the 23rd as off for a bit.

330873330874

As to the spiders Willy, dunno about what sort you gize have in kiwiland, but I haven't seen any over here that even seem to like anything around 750 deg C or even deg F. :devil2:

[marsheng]

Busy rebuilding the calipers for my dyno. I'm adding a "bit" more grunt to the inertia drum I have. Hopefully I can then tune 2s a bit better.

330887

[husaberg]

Busy rebuilding the calipers for my dyno. I'm adding a "bit" more grunt to the inertia drum I have. Hopefully I can then tune 2s a bit better.

330887

Holden HQ? or Ford Falcon?

[marsheng]

Holden HQ? or Ford Falcon?

Holden I think. 2 disks are from BMW. Same diameter better price.

[Grumph]

Holden HQ? or Ford Falcon?

Well the two rusty ones are HQ - ex me.

For the record I still think that's overkill - the guy here whose car rolling road I was basically copying reckoned two HQ discs would easily absorb 160hp plus...

And he was SAE and AMIMechE qualified. He regularly ran rally and circuit cars on his rolling road.

[Frits Overmars]

Busy rebuilding the calipers for my dyno. I'm adding a "bit" more grunt to the inertia drum I have. Hopefully I can then tune 2s a bit better.
330887
For the record I still think that's overkill - the guy here whose car rolling road I was basically copying reckoned two HQ discs would easily absorb 160hp plus...Also for the record: I think it's not only overkill; it can also be dangerous. Too much braking may result in the whole dyno stand somersaulting.

I assume you are adding those brake discs in order to increase the total inertia. It will work, but it will do more than just that.
Those discs act as ventilators which will absorb an unknown amount of power. It's the same with retarder discs: you can calculate their inertia but you will need to make a coast-down run in order to measure the total absorbed power (friction + ventilation).
330894

[ken seeber]

SLIDER UPDATE.

Finally got the thing running on the dyno frame. No load being applied by dyno, still got some software and hardware issues to be resolved. Main purpose was to see what falls off and even if it still works.
Have a look at this: https://youtu.be/PaYYIfLnHkA I’m not the young bloke, but you probably knew that !!

Not too much to say other than it makes some noise (apparently it could be heard over in kiwiland !!). Seems to zing with a bit of throttle, but then so does any 2 stroke really. Felt like 71 hp though. :yes:

Obviously the next thing is getting the dyno sussed.

[breezy]

SLIDER UPDATE.

Finally got the thing running on the dyno frame. No load being applied by dyno, still got some software and hardware issues to be resolved. Main purpose was to see what falls off and even if it still works.
Have a look at this: https://youtu.be/PaYYIfLnHkA I’m not the young bloke, but you probably knew that !!

Not too much to say other than it makes some noise (apparently it could be heard over in kiwiland !!). Seems to zing with a bit of throttle, but then so does any 2 stroke really. Felt like 71 hp though. :yes:

Obviously the next thing is getting the dyno sussed.

Nice one Ken:2thumbsup ( didnt hear it over here but sounded like at least 71.5hp on the video:yes:)

[ken seeber]

Busy rebuilding the calipers for my dyno. I'm adding a "bit" more grunt to the inertia drum I have. Hopefully I can then tune 2s a bit better.

330887

Wallace, was thinking about your dyno. You refer to it as an inertia dyno, and it could be that you are using it for that function, but to me the actual “flywheel mass” looks relatively small, probably resulting in it needing to be spun at high speeds, hence the concern for your safety and you do seem like a really nice bloke. :yes:

So, with all that absorption capability and given the fact that you want to sort out an engine, to me it seems you have the need and most of the ingredients for a steady state dyno. Most, but not all, cos you don’t appear to have a way to measure load. One thought is to use your absorber exactly as is, but add a transmission dynamometer arrangement like this.

330926

Relatively easily done with chain, eg karting #219 chain and idlers using kart engine clutch style needle rollered sprockets G (eg Rotax Max) and a large rear axle sprocket as the big idler and a smaller axle sprocket as the input sprocket for your absorber. You’ll have to measure the torque of the arm to get the engine torque and do a simple calc to get power. Typical teeth numbers might be engine sprocket J 12T, idler H 88T, small idlers G 14T and dyno input sprocket K 60T. Hope that all makes sense.

Beauty of this is that you can use anything as the absorber: friction brakes as you are, a propeller, water pump, eddy current absorber, a generator etc.

[Grumph]

Not in any way answering for Wallace...just clarifying. He's got an inertial dyno which is actually quite good. I've had a bike on it once. Works fine.

What he's trying for as I understand it, is a way to hold a steady load to try and sort fuelling and other issues....

I have pointed out the ease of putting a load cell on a reaction arm to turn it into a classic reaction dyno with adjustable load.
He's aware of how fast the load has to be adjusted too.

Personally, I find it easiest to take the bike for a blat up the road to sort carburation - but I live a lot further out of town than he does.

[Kickaha]

Too much braking may result in the whole dyno stand somersaulting.

So long as he gets it on video then I'm ok with that ;)

[marsheng]

I'm adding it to my inertia dyno.
330936

It is a 700 kg ex steam drum.

As Grumph said, I want to hold a steady load.

There are 3 ways I can use this configuration,

1 Obviously inertia
2 Steady
3 a combination of both.

3 is important as I don't like spinning he drum to +160kph, especially when it originally only went to 15 kph. It has been dynamically balanced and is vibration free. I am hoping to do a combination of inertia and brake. Anything over 50hp spins the drum to fast for my liking.

My guess at this point is that the friction is linear. Ie at x pressure and y rpm, the power absorbed is k. At 2y rpm the power would be 2k.

I have purchased a electronic trailer brake unit which I will interface to the system getting feedback from a load cell to make it all work !!!

Fritz, I will take the rapid braking into consideration.

[marsheng]

We have drifted a long way from foundry stuff, but unless we can accurately measure our foundry results on the dyno, it really is guess work all along.

So with my modified Maico, I need to make sure the the timing and fuel are all correct with my current motor before I start making new cylinders so I have a valid starting point.

Cheers Wallace.

[ken seeber]

Cool. I thought that the disks were the inertia dyno.

As you were then....;)

[Flettner]

Back to casting then. These two gear reduction units are heading off to South Africa today. Housings not cast by me though, done by Skellerns in Auckland. They do a pretty good job but are expensive. These housings are LM 25 heat treated to T6, nice to machine. These units bolt to EJ Subaru engines for use in Aviation, they give the propeller something better to hold on to other than the crankshaft, which is not suitable. Also uses a gear reduction to reduce the RPM and gain torque at the propeller flange. Both engine and prop can work in their 'sweet spots'. We must have quite a few 'doing the business' in South Africa now. I have to say this is a job I do enjoy, building these.

[Grumph]

Very nice. Purely out of curiosity, what's the bearing setup for the prop shaft ? What takes the thrust ?

[WilDun]

Talking about casting, I haven't given up yet but have been delivered a severe blow by having my already tiny workspace reduced even more (to a workspace essentially of around 2m x 4m!)
I kept my old bench under which I intend to store my furnace and my welders and possibly my hacksaw (got to get rid of all the junk stored under it though) but my foundry aspirations have still remained intact!
However, I have finally gone mad and bought a relatively large milling machine for this area (RS 30 and a bargain I couldn't resist! :facepalm: ) which I will now have to somehow fit in here as well! - But it has a relatively small footprint and when I get it finally installed on its pedestal (Gawd it's heavy!) then I can mount my micro lathe on the table when necessary and I've now got a Mill/drill/lathe - one man band? - or is it a one stop shop? sort of thing - all very useful for the small over ambitious and probably short sighted foundryman!
It's now a race against time and I would like to have a few years to safely be able to do some foundry work ....... anyway, we'll see :rolleyes:

[Flettner]

Very nice. Purely out of curiosity, what's the bearing setup for the prop shaft ? What takes the thrust ?

This is the Long nose version and as such has an extra support bearing out near the prop flange. Normal H6 300 has a double row angular contact bearing just in behind the prop flange, takes thrust in both directions be it pusher or tractor configuration. The long nose version has the same double row bearing in the same position. Gears are light helical, input shaft has a smaller double row angular contact as well to handle this helical axial load. Gears are EN39B heat treated to 60R case hardened. On the tail end of the prop shaft is a roller so that as the gearbox moves with expansion, it won't load the bearing and damage it, as the roller can handle this axial movement. ALL thrust is taken in the Angular contact bearing.

The reason for the design and build of the long nose version was because I saw lots of setups where the home builder would put a four or sometimes a six inch spacer out to the prop! Very dangerous. This is to help circumvent their stupidity.

[WilDun]

This is the Long nose version and as such has an extra support bearing out near the prop flange.............
The reason for the design and build of the long nose version was because I saw lots of setups where the home builder would put a four or sometimes a six inch spacer out to the prop! Very dangerous. This is to help circumvent their stupidity.

Yes and there are some even more stupid designs which some guys have come up with for their belt drive offerings (and intended for sale too)! - I hate cantilevered stuff at the best of times - as with bikes too, eg the shaft supporting the clutch basket etc, I can't see how that makes the primary gears behave nicely toward each other! as for cantilevered cranks eg Scotts and weedeaters etc. no way!
Perhaps axial forces such as in aircraft aren't so bad, but .... I'm told that there are some very heavy gyroscopic forces involved with aircraft props.

Made myself think - now I understand the roller concept!

[guyhockley]

Don't think this has been posted before...
Pattern-making, casting and machining to make a 1650cc, 6 cylinder old-school 2 stroke outboard with megaphones:
http://www.boatracingfacts.com/forums/showthread.php?14110-Building-A-looper-Beast

[Flettner]

Yum Yum, 7075 parts back from being hard chromed.
Might be busy on the grinder today.

[Frits Overmars]

Yum Yum, 7075 parts back from being hard chromed. Might be busy on the grinder today.Yum yum indeed!

[Grumph]

Yum Yum, 7075 parts back from being hard chromed.
Might be busy on the grinder today.

Two versions - for different crank setups ?

[Flettner]

Two versions - for different crank setups ?

Yes two types to test. Beautiful job they have done, hope it stays put.

[breezy]

Flettner, after the ktm debarkle, go easy on showing your results. no point being the FREE R&D for someone elses profit mate. unless of course your happy with the situation:rolleyes:

[Ocean1]

Flettner, after the ktm debarkle, go easy on showing your results. no point being the FREE R&D for someone elses profit mate. unless of course your happy with the situation:rolleyes:

He's a Kiwi, he's used to it. :facepalm:

[husaberg]

Yes two types to test. Beautiful job they have done, hope it stays put.

Did the mrs at least feign interest in them?

[Flettner]

Did the mrs at least feign interest in them?

Zipped them out to shed before she got a chance to see them.

Ha Ha, yes Breezy, KTM are spying on us. What to do? They could pay me NOT to post stuff on this forum:motu:
Or perhaps these pictures could be a red herring and the real development results are locked away inside my secure research facility deep in the Forrest.:lol:
Or perhaps there is correspondence at this point with their opposition, I'm not saying nothing.:whistle:
Or perhaps this is all bullshit.

[WilDun]

Zipped them out to shed before she got a chance to see them.

Ha Ha, yes Breezy, KTM are spying on us. What to do? They could pay me NOT to post stuff on this forum:motu:
Or perhaps these pictures could be a red herring and the real development results are locked away inside my secure research facility deep in the Forrest.:lol:
Or perhaps there is correspondence at this point with their opposition, I'm not saying nothing.:whistle:
Or perhaps this is all bullshit.

Nevertheless, "The proof of the pudding is in the eating" and if it tastes nice, don't let the expression on your face show it or the hungry bastards will all want a piece! (no bull).

[Flettner]

I've got KTM's next generation injection system here now, only if I show it off, it will be KTM's next injection system! (when they find the limitations of the system they have now).

It's well suited to run on a 125, just saying, plenty of injection time available.

[WilDun]

I've got KTM's next generation injection system here now, only if I show it off, it will be KTM's next injection system! (when they find the limitations of the system they have now).

That's the spirit! - a "Mark 2" or even "Mark3" version up and running and ready by the time they (not necessarily meaning KTM of course) have gone to the expense of modifying a production line to accommodate a previously copied "Mark 1".

[Grumph]

He's a Kiwi, he's used to it. :facepalm:

It goes back a fair ways too....When I was a kid, at one Lady Wigram meeting, I remember seeing a group of poms wearing BRM overalls around the tail end of one of Hec Green's RA Specials. The next season's BRM rear suspension was a copy of Hec's. That was their first rear engine car so it would have been probably Jan '58.
Yachting has many examples too....

[ken seeber]

Weekend’s activity was to make a mounting system for a spring scale to measure the torque of the dyno absorber unit. I know it’s pretty crude, but I don’t want to frig around with reviving some rooted electronics bits any more.
Some might even think it’s a bit fishy. :nya:

So it’s almost ready for the big "tell all or nothing runs" when I’m back in a couple of weeks.

331012331013

[WilDun]

Weekend’s activity was to make a mounting system for a spring scale to measure the torque of the dyno absorber unit.

May have missed something here earlier - but what sort of absorber is that? obviously it's not a disc/caliper brake setup - what type of beast is it? - what's it off?

[ken seeber]

May have missed something here earlier - but what sort of absorber is that? obviously it's not a disc/caliper brake setup - what type of beast is it? - what's it off?

Willy, it is a water brake style absorber. In principle the design has been around for ages, eg Heenan & Froude ( you should know this, from the old mother country :laugh:). Essentially it is filled/partially filled with a constant flow of water, presumably the more water the more drag, hence load. The energy being dissipated thru heating the water. The flow is controlled via the inlet valve. With these and this one (TRIK) , when operating at a constant speed, the software controls a variable valve based on speed feedback.
On the bottom left of the first pic you can see a ½ in brass gate valve. This will be my flow control device if we can’t get the software to both read and control the valve. I guess a feature of the absorber is that, unlike an engine, it’ll be relatively insensitive to the water temps.

[Frits Overmars]

Willy, it is a water brake style absorber. In principle the design has been around for ages, eg Heenan & Froude.I've been around for ages too; my first dyno brake was a Heenan & Froude. The peculiarity about it was that the amount of braking was controlled by two slides moving radially in- or outward between the pump rotor and pump stator. You had to move those slides by turning a hand wheel on the penduling pump housing. But as soon as you laid a hand on this wheel, the pump housing moved a little and the braking torque indicator hand moved as well - not a great way to achieve accuracy.

Controlling the water flow was a better option, but not by much, because it would vary the water pressure in the system, which would make the rubber hoses between the stationary valve and the penduling pump try to change their curvature, once again exerting unwanted torque on the pump housing.

Then there was the pump characteristics. The pump's absorbed-torque rose with rpm alright, but it rose nowhere as steeply as the torque curve of a racing two-stroke. So with the engine running somewhere in the torque dip below its power band, when you reduced the braking torque in order to let the revs climb a bit, the engine would wake up and the revs would shoot up to almost maximum rpm where its torque dropped off.
In time I could more or less improve this behaviour by doubling the pump rpm and tripling the water pressure but it was never easy to sample a power curve.

[husaberg]

Willy, it is a water brake style absorber. In principle the design has been around for ages, eg Heenan & Froude ( you should know this, from the old mother country :laugh:).


I've been around for ages too; my first dyno brake was a Heenan & Froude. The peculiarity about it was that the amount of braking was controlled by two slides moving radially in- or outward between the pump rotor and pump stator. You had to move those slides by turning a hand wheel on the penduling pump housing. But as soon as you laid a hand on this wheel, the pump housing moved a little and the braking torque indicator hand moved as well - not a great way to achieve accuracy.
.
Air Paddle wheel Dyno
https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=322893&d=1356665252
a bloody long length of chain in some exhaust tube as it whips about a couple of feet
Plus non hi tensile bolts in the plywood paddles.
A willing helper to read the tacho that was mounted a little too close to the fans for comfort

[WilDun]

Well, I've learnt quite a lot in the space of two or three posts!
I was totally interested in bikes and engines (in the "Oul Country") but information on dynos was a little sparse and people with an interest in this stuff in my area was even more sparse! (all bloody farming, cows and profits - very little else!).
Having said that though, there was a lot of interest in bikes there too, just not enough for me! - it was really much the same in NZ when I came here in 1966 ...... 51 years ago!
But then, late on in my life, computers and the Bucket Racing guys have popped up, - I have learnt more in the last 3 years or so than I ever could have imagined and I have at least managed to build a furnace and done a couple of pours just by being inspired by you guys. its something I have always wanted to do and thought it would never happen - many thanks.

Next thing is to see some of Neil's achievements (I have seen one of his super lightweight cylinder barrels first hand and would like to see more). Would be nice to call in and see Ken's stuff too, but that's one helluva long way away!

I did have the pleasure of having a quick chat with Bert Munro back around 1970, I liked his style, he was like me in many ways (yeah right - like me X 100 ! :laugh:)

[Flettner]

Back to foundry stuff, ready to mold up some more 360 cylinders with mods made. Wider exhaust, larger power valve boss and some new lugs for the injectors

[WilDun]

Back to foundry stuff, ready to mold up some more 360 cylinders with mods made. Wider exhaust, larger power valve boss and some new lugs for the injectors

Will you be using 4 injectors or are the lugs just provided for possible future experimental stuff? - are you going to do the barrel castings yourself?

UPDATE - I see you are doing the description in ESE, (I always look at the foundry thread first).

[guyhockley]

Air Paddle wheel Dyno
https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=322893&d=1356665252
a bloody long length of chain in some exhaust tube as it whips about a couple of feet
Plus non hi tensile bolts in the plywood paddles.
A willing helper to read the tacho that was mounted a little too close to the fans for comfort

Gustave Eiffel, of Eiffel Tower fame, was involved in early aviation development and he came up with a wooden plank dyno for aero engines (methode de barreau), including a formula for actually measuring power/torque. Still used today by some french flyers.
http://airdeglisse.free.fr/thread.php?lng=fr&pg=176&fid=&cat=2

[guyhockley]

Googling "wood bar dyno" should find some results in english.

[husaberg]

Gustave Eiffel, of Eiffel Tower fame, was involved in early aviation development and he came up with a wooden plank dyno for aero engines (methode de barreau), including a formula for actually measuring power/torque. Still used today by some french flyers.
http://airdeglisse.free.fr/thread.php?lng=fr&pg=176&fid=&cat=2

It mentions the use of a formula in the book it was suposed to be quite accurate for a rudimentry device.

[Flettner]

Here we go again.

[Flettner]

Something else I find on my pattern bench.

[husaberg]

Something else I find on my pattern bench.

Red , Did they come from Santa?:clap:

[Flettner]

Packing sand mold, wire is to poke holes through the sand to facilitate CO2 gassing. After each segment is hardened, spacers are removed to allow for the next segment to be packed. Hardened sand segments will not stick to the next part being packed and hardened.

[Flettner]

Packing a segment, runner and riser installed, removing the last segment.

[WilDun]

Packing a segment, runner and riser installed, removing the last segment.

Looks like you are fully sold on the silicate/CO2 moulding process now and I guess it does make sense.
Will you still be casting the barrels in LM13 alloy as before - are you finding it is still the best for the Nikasil bore plating?
Think I mentioned before somewhere that I was impressed with the light weight of your cylinders, but I guess I'm comparing them with the weight of the cylinder barrels of the distant past that I was used to! - hard to imagine they used to make them in cast iron!

The red "something else" things look like a collection of barrel patterns (with coreprints) and maybe some cores and coreboxes for something bigger, the cylinder pattern has a lot of small protrusions (bosses?) which are a bit bewildering though!

[husaberg]

The red "something else" things look like a collection of barrel patterns (with coreprints) and maybe some cores and coreboxes for something bigger, the cylinder pattern has a lot of small protrusions (bosses?) which are a bit bewildering though!

This might help Will
331094331095331096331097
Thats that railway line Neil was talking about earlier in pic one.

[Frits Overmars]

That looks familiar like serious power in the making.
By the way, nice carpet.

[WilDun]

This might help Will
331094331095331096331097
Thats that railway line Neil was talking about earlier in pic one.

Thanks Husa, - well it's all very detailed (also senic and pretty) of course, but I still don't know the details of what it is, whose it is or what it's about! - or perhaps I'm a just a little bit thick, I dunno. :laugh:

[husaberg]

That looks familiar like serious power in the making.
By the way, nice carpet.

Cheers they match the drapes, but no thats actually a table cloth. I have young kids and an oak table.

Thanks Husa, - well it's all very detailed (also senic and pretty) of course, but I still don't know the details of what it is, whose it is or what it's about! - or perhaps I'm a just a little bit thick, I dunno. :laugh:
Frits is onto it Will. I will give you a clue, its not a copy of a Honda cylinder, but it is a copy of one of the worlds most successful GP bike engines cylinder.

[ken seeber]

Fletto,
Got the ingots all done. Where shall I have them sent? Hamilton?

331119

[WilDun]

Cheers they match the drapes, but no thats actually a table cloth. I have young kids and an oak table.

Frits is onto it Will. I will give you a clue, its not a copy of a Honda cylinder, but it is a copy of one of the worlds most successful GP bike engines cylinder.

Ok, there is a blank space where my interest in bikes got suspended (too knackered trying to make a living) and anything new in the motorcycle scene between 1975 and 2000 was missed, so I'll just have to keep asking!



Fletto, Got the ingots all done. Where shall I have them sent? Hamilton?


Hard work Ken! no wonder you haven't been on much lately!

[lodgernz]

This stuff? http://www.hobbycraft.co.uk/shesto-composi-mould-480-ml/611780-1000
I'm finding Vinamold at less than £10 a kilo/litre in England so nearly 4 times more expensive!

I got my red vinamold from Tiranti in the UK.
email: Caroline@tiranti.co.uk

[husaberg]

Ok, there is a blank space where my interest in bikes got suspended (too knackered trying to make a living) and anything new in the motorcycle scene between 1975 and 2000 was missed, so I'll just have to keep asking!


Will, Fettner was playing with with RSV aprilia copy cylinder patterns.

[WilDun]

Will, Fettner was playing with with RSV aprilia copy cylinder patterns.

Thanks Husa, I loved bikes and had a lot of fun with them, but never really got into the finer details of tuning etc. and as I said, there was a gap, so I don't recognize all this stuff when I see it. I was always into making stuff from scratch as a fitter & turner and even inventing ideas (not only bikes). In fact I was never much of a mechanic or tuner, which was the real reason why my racing career didn't really take off (I think I did have some ability there and a little courage - or was it blind optimism?) - still not within a country mile of the standards set by my compatriot and namesake Joey of course! but........ a good running bike might've helped! :laugh:


I got my red vinamold from Tiranti in the UK.
email: Caroline@tiranti.co.uk

Lodgernz, that is mighty expensive stuff! I bought some of the softer stuff from The Fibreglass Shop in Hamilton but they were just selling off the last of it.They said that they were getting alternative stuff from somewhere in Europe but I don't think that ever happened.
I see that there is another brand for sale in Sydney & Melbourne (Gelflex) but I haven't found any prices as yet.

[Flettner]

I give up, this is the way to make patterns. Stick your reed valves up your bum, rotary valve is where it's at. 125 variable rotary valve Engine, 52 bore, 58 stroke. Fuel injected, with variable port hight cylinder. 134 dia disc valve. Water cooled crankcase. Same cases will go out to 175 and will be a much better fit for the epicylic crank.

[husaberg]

I give up, this is the way to make patterns. Stick your reed valves up your bum, rotary valve is where it's at. 125 rotary valve Engine, 52 bore, 58 stroke. Fuel injected, with variable port hight cylinder. 134 dia disc valve. Water cooled crankcase. Same cases will go out to 175 and will be a much better fit for the epicylic crank.

Thats a big disc, same size as the bighorn?
I finally found something decent out of china

Paulownia wood is very light, fine-grained, and warp-resistant. It is the fastest-growing hardwood. It is used for chests, boxes, and clogs (geta). Its low silica content reduces dulling of blades, making it a preferred wood for boxes to hold fine Japanese edge tools. The wood is burned to make charcoal for sketching and powder for fireworks, the bark is made into a dye. The silvery-grey wood is sliced into veneers for special visiting cards


Paulownia is extremely fast growing; up to 20 feet in one year when young. Some species of plantation Paulownia can be harvested for saw timber in as little as five years. Once the trees are harvested, they regenerate from their existing root systems, earning them the name of the "Phoenix tree."
http://www.nzffa.org.nz/images/design/tgnov07paulownia2.jpg

[WilDun]

I give up, this is the way to make patterns. Stick your reed valves up your bum, rotary valve is where it's at. 125 variable rotary valve Engine, 52 bore, 58 stroke. Fuel injected, with variable port hight cylinder. 134 dia disc valve. Water cooled crankcase. Same cases will go out to 175 and will be a much better fit for the epicylic crank.

Flettner, that really is a great way to make patterns - most people are not as fortunate to have the machinery you possess of course, but a relatively cheap CNC router would do the trick (seeing it's wood).
Quite frankly though, the 3D printer also interests me, but because of the lines on the pattern I'm not so sure about withdrawl from the mould, but the "lost plastic" method could be used by burning out the plastic in the complete plaster/sand mould and blowing out the ash with an air gun, then pouring while still hot (has been done). This is good for small parts, which I would want to do. I have actually been looking at cheap end 3D printers, their acrylic structural components and general flimsiness doesn't thrill me at all, nor do the printer type toothed belts. would like to use the software, printer heads screws maybe or rack and pinion instead of the "wallopy" belts and use aluminium and steel"overkill"on the non-moving parts. - It could also be the basis for a router (probably too small though).

Will your rotary valve be adjustable in both opening and closing (ie variable in duration as well with individually adjustable outside "lips" or what?

[Flettner]

Yes valve cover has both open and shut adjustment, separately. Cylinder moves so as to shut transfers down completely, or nearly for idle. Crank case not throttled as such. Base of the exhaust is fixed in relation to crank case and piston so when the cylinder shuts down (timing wise) the exhaust also largely shuts down too but transfer inertia stays high. As the fuel is intodintroduced at the transfers, this can be delayed for good fuel trapping. Injectors can be staged so probably only use B port at lower engine speeds. In fact below say 1/4 cylinder throttle, might just use injection only to control engine speed, miss a few shots then one big bang, then miss a few more. Hit and miss principle. A bit like me really

[Grumph]

Will - if you use the right foam plastic for your male and encase it in the usual refactory material, no burn out required. Pour and it vapourises.
If memory serves, Chevy made a big thing of this when they introduced the Cosworth Vega.

[WilDun]

Will - if you use the right foam plastic for your male and encase it in the usual refactory material, no burn out required. Pour and it vapourises.

Polystyrene or similar foam they say will work well but if - and I mean IF I got (or built) a 3D printer, then it would have to be solid PLA or such like, whereas, if I used foam, then I'd probably have to carve it to the shape required, by hand, router or hot wire.(or all three).

Neil I know it's cheating, short cutting etc. by using a "complete" sand/plaster mould but It's a little less labour intensive for me.
However, it'll probably get me a reasonable (small) one- off casting, such as I will be making, without a helluva lot of work.
It's a bit like having all your info on PDF and just printing out what you need and it will be identical to the one you did last year and without actually having to store it. - space is at a premium for me now! - that's my theory anyway!

What you are telling me about your upcoming engine makes a lot of sense and no doubt we will hear more on it as you progress.

[WilDun]

I finally found something decent out of china

Looks like handy stuff to have, where would you find it here? (packing crates/boxes I guess). - Maybe I should give it a go before getting a 3D printer!

[ken seeber]

Greg, the lost foam method was taken up by various companies, one goodie being Mercury for their I3 & I4 2 strokes. From the crankcase face up to the cyl head, I think they had 5 or 6 or so horizontal biscuits, that located & glued to each other, the split lines being sensibly placed at port top/bottoms. So, instead of having separate head and exh cover castings, it was all in one piece, completely eliminating head gasket issues. Obviously had blind bores, but wasn’t really a problem with cast in CI liners, even the honing.

I did see it ages ago, I think the styrene assy was dipped, dried and then back filled and totally immersed in loose sand, hot metal poured in, vaporising the styrene, creating the odd volume of noxious black fumes.

We did try some time ago to 3D print in both PLA and some wax style filament and invested this as a “lost print” process. Sort of worked, more as an experiment for a particular job. I reckon with some of the newer filaments that claim to be better, it could be made to work. Even after the printing, the sprues, ingates, vents etc need to be added.

331509

However, to actually get this far requires lots of things:

1. The ability to draw, or really ”create” , the solid model of your target design, one has to be proficient at some 3D package eg Solidworks. Something like a water cooled 125( 3+5) cylinder is far from a trivial exercise.
2. Access to the Solidworks package. I couldn’t see anything like Google Sketchup being sufficient, although I am far from an expert to really comment on this..
3. The 3D printer, the correct filament or consumable AND the patience to wait for many hours to print something like a total cylinder, hoping that it isn’t interrupted/aborted and then to see it shit itself for whatever reason during the casting stage
4. The gear to both invest the print and then to melt/burn out the print
5. The foundry

Don’t want to hold you back Willy, but I reckon a wooden pattern and a bit of sand is the way to go initially. If nothing else, a good way to test out your neighbours. :laugh:

[Grumph]

I agree - keep it simple for home use.

I have a few late model 4stroke bike engines through here and look at the very complex heads and shake mine....I suspect that the lost foam method is still in use as I can't see any other way of doing some of them.
Just had a 600 honda 4 renicasiled - barrel in one piece with the crankcase top half. That's a simple casting by comparison with the head..

[WilDun]

Yes, all the comments you guys are making is what brought to the Kiwibiker forum, ie after looking at Flettner's foundry pics, I started to get some very good ideas on casting and other foundry stuff, this all through some easy going friendly discussion and a lot about bikes etc to boot!
Unfortunately I get sidetracked now and then and even have had the odd set to with some (very) odd people - think that was on ESE, also many off track discussions on ODDBALL - all good fun and always gets back on track.

Guys,
I do intend to keep everything small, at least to start off with, also as simple as possible and I also understand your point Ken that the bit of wood is just as good or better anyway.

I do however have an old version of solidworks (2007) hence I want to try it on 3D something or other. This is perfectly adequate for me except that after I got it in 2010 everything got disrupted big time when I ended up being hospitalised and not too good for a long time. so after learning the basics it was "put away"and I have finally got it out again and dusted it off, unfortunately after all the anesthetics etc. I now have a lot of brain fade" but I'll try and master it - here's hoping!"

Polystyrene is very messy as far as smoke is concerned though, but on a small scale and at the right time could possibly be used even around my place too, and I'm pretty sure PLA would work well if burnt out thoroughly in the furnace and blown out with an air gun, leaving a hot mould to pour into.
I agree that more complexity would make it a mission and a lot of skill would still be required with wax and patterns, however the stuff I will be making will be small and relatively simple.
If I haven't run out of years, or drive and also space, I'll try all three methods but they tell me that in order to do all this, you have to actually get off your arse, quit talking and do some work ........ unfortunately! :facepalm:

[husaberg]

Looks like handy stuff to have, where would you find it here? (packing crates/boxes I guess). - Maybe I should give it a go before getting a 3D printer!

the garden nursery, it grows even faster here in NZ.
buy a cyclops 3d scanner first

[WilDun]

the garden nursery, it grows even faster here in NZ.
buy a cyclops 3d scanner first

A Cyclops 3D scanner?:killingme: - would I need one? would I be rich enough? would I gain anything by using it in my airy fairy "dabbling and metal casting" business? what could I scan?
I bought an old mill drill and nearly bankrupted myself!! bloody near got kicked out of the house permanently and have had to stay in my neighbour's sleepout till things died down!:facepalm:
Any chance of borrowing yours ? (I'll pay the postage).

:msn-wink:

[husaberg]

A Cyclops 3D scanner?:killingme: - would I need one? would I be rich enough? would I gain anything by using it in my airy fairy "dabbling and metal casting" business? what could I scan?
I bought an old mill drill and nearly bankrupted myself!! bloody near got kicked out of the house permanently and have had to stay in my neighbour's sleepout till things died down!:facepalm:
Any chance of borrowing yours ? (I'll pay the postage).

One was $200 on trademe not that long ago
you can scan pretty much anything up to 20cm and get it printed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XZai_7SFsEk
Postage for my house might be pretty expensive:innocent:

[ken seeber]

I do however have an old version of solidworks (2007) hence I want to try it on 3D something or other. This is perfectly adequate for me except that after I got it in 2010 everything got disrupted big time when I ended up being hospitalised and not too good for a long time. so after learning the basics it was "put away"and I have finally got it out again and dusted it off, unfortunately after all the anesthetics etc. I now have a lot of brain fade" but I'll try and master it - here's hoping!"


Willy you old devil, holding out that you already have S/W. If you can save your part as an .stl file, you're right to print something. Maybe if you have a 3D printing company nearby, you could ask them for a bit of a reject PLA print and exp't with the investing and burning out. Anyways, give something a go. Even working your way thru relearning S/W can only be good for the brain. :sweatdrop

As a total digression, we did a run with the slider today on the dyno/sprinkler. Will post something later tonight. Good thing was that it still works. :yes:

[WilDun]

One was $200 on trademe not that long ago
you can scan pretty much anything up to 20cm and get it printed.
Postage for my house might be pretty expensive:innocent:

Thanks Husa,
Think I'd better lie low for a while, If I had a real business it would be very tempting of course, but if I do buy a 3D printer (or make one up from my little old engraver) I could probably only just afford it - to be honest I would like to make patterns out of wood or polystyrene as well and take some instruction on that from Neil, after all he has put in a lot of effort on the thread and we can all see from the results just how good the old way can be!.
It is very interesting of course but it would become just another thing I have, definitely not the right time to buy something I "might need" sometime - Bit like stud finders, and the old GPS etc. all good of course but you can't find them when you need them!

[WilDun]

Willy you old devil, holding out that you already have S/W. If you can save your part as an .stl file, you're right to print something. Maybe if you have a 3D printing company nearby, you could ask them for a bit of a reject PLA print and exp't with the investing and burning out. Anyways, give something a go. Even working your way thru relearning S/W can only be good for the brain. :sweatdrop

As a total digression, we did a run with the slider today on the dyno/sprinkler. Will post something later tonight. Good thing was that it still works. :yes:

Thanks Ken, I may ask for some more advice from you on exporting files from 3D drawings to printers, routers etc. but I've got to understand a lot more about SolidWorks etc. first and become familiar with it. - I only really got to learn the "bottom rung" basics way back in 2010!

Burning out a "complete" sand/plaster mould with polystyrene risers and sprues seems to be an easy option for starters and I have seen it work - good idea, to play around with surplus/reject prints before wasting my money of course.

Anyway there are many ways of skinning a cat thanks for all the help you guys - Oh and BTW my wife is nothing like the picture I paint of her ....... she's much smarter and more understanding than that (also much smarter than me).

Always have an interest in yours and Neils projects.

[OopsClunkThud]

For inexpensive CAD, consider Autodesk Fusion 360 as you can get a free license for hobby and educational use. It's not quite fully baked, but still very usable.

[WilDun]

For inexpensive CAD, consider Autodesk Fusion 360 as you can get a free license for hobby and educational use. It's not quite fully baked, but still very usable.

Thanks,OCD,
I've got all sorts of inexpensive CAD and have used it on and off over the years I mostly use 'Design Cad' - (cheap, totally adequate and with 3D and..... I'm not really proficient with it either!) - you can get sidetracked with this stuff though and really it all becomes a hobby in itself.
I bought a secondhand computer about 6 or 7 years ago to drive my little engraver and had the good fortune to find SW already on it - so I just hope it doesn't disappear - in that case I may be looking at Fusion 360!
Sketching with the good old pencil and paper (with attached eraser) is maybe better most of the time anyway and sometimes a sketch with a few dimensions chucked in will suffice - that's because you only need a proper drawing when it's in a production shop for others to read and where people have to work to a certain standard.

For retired little men like me in a grotty little home workshop, no boss to impress, (or profits to look forward to either), then SW is a huge leap upward and probably is very necessary for the various little CNC machines we can all easly acquire today .... so I'll (grudgingly) have to sit down and learn to do it properly. :rolleyes:

[Flettner]

Will, that's the truth, you either invest your time in a CAD program or you invest your time in actual wood / bondifil parts. The right way is a CAD program but they can be frustrating. Usually I just get the shits with the computer and end up just building the part. Lately I've taken to using the CAD program away from home so I just can't piss off out to the shed and make the component.
I'm not telling you how to suck eggs but the CAD can be invaluable when used proficiently, I wish I could.
I'm lucky in that I also have Gibbs CAM, a real good CAM program but not so good at CAD. I just use a series of two and a half D cut paths to generate the cavities I want. Works for me with simple stuff, crank cases etc, but no where near as good as a solid model part.

[WilDun]

Yes I really do need to invest my time carefully and wisely now,(not a helluva lot left) and don't really want to keel over with a bucket load of fancy machines (useful to someone younger) and to look down on them ( from above) just to see them carted off to the tip as junk! - and anyway, what was wrong with steam engines ?? - all this new fangled stuff is confusing me! - gerroff!! :facepalm:

UPDATE
OCD,- had a bit of a look at Fusion 360 and it looks like a good scheme - but I'll just stick with the stuff I have for now and learn on that, however If I actually have to, I'll try that.
If I spend too much time learning that stuff (and it's addictive) then I'll have less time for actual casting, and that was the main object of my being here ( I have got as far as a couple of melts) so I need to perfect that first! :niceone:

FLETTNER,
When I was a teenager and into my twenties the situation with draughting and design was very different and bloody hard work - now it should be a breeze and the young guys just don't really understand how lucky they are! I would have been over the moon then, if all this stuff had existed at that time!
When I was working I turned down a couple of offers to work on CNC lathes etc but I was very happy doing tooling etc for the CNC machines and some development stuff as well, so I missed out doing this stuff (didn't want to be the personal slave of a CNC machine).

Now,it's very hard work to break into this at a time when you're expected by others to be winding down! - that riles me so I've got to keep trying.

[Michael Moore]

I've got copies of some drawings for BSA B50 engine parts like the crankcases and cylinder head. They must have been a nightmare to do as they are hugely complex. CAD can be quite frustrating at times but most hobbyist stuff should be possible for most users to complete. Don't be surprised if you find yourself stuck at the end of a blind alley and having to take a few steps back and then try to create a feature in a different way.

A nice thing with solid models is you can do assemblies of parts which can make interferences or other problems easier to spot and figure out what is going wrong.

CAD + CAM can be pretty time consuming, but the second, third and later parts are just a fresh piece of metal and a press of the "cycle start" button away once you get good code from the model.

[WilDun]

Yes Michael
Things (in engineering) normally only change for the better, but there comes the time when we become spoilt for choice in design tools and trying out new tools actually becomes the object of the game. The original idea then gets left behind so maybe I should settle for what I have and actually get them to work properly - ie actually doing what I set out to do!

I think I'll just persevere with the old SW which I have in the meantime and hopefully it will serve me well and actually be the start of producing something real.
Trouble is, it could eventually steer me into a printer and printing will become the objective ..... and so on .....and on.
Also, I'm a junkie for (the futility of) trying to revive gear (printer perhaps?) which has been discarded by someone else - I really must try to give that up!. :rolleyes:

[ken seeber]

SLIDER UPDATE.
Well after a time away, an involuntary event and back to some hard work, it appears that the slider engine was exactly the same as when I had left it.

So, got it going on Friday, connected to the water brake dyno, fitted with a manual valve to control the inwards water flow. At the same time also wanted to check out the simple load arm and spring scale as I have abandoned the idea of using the software that came with the dyno due to the apparently failed load cell and/or its amplifier. Also we tried out a temp controller to switch on/off acooling fan to the large engine radiator. All good.

It looks like I’m going to have to strip the dyno absorber cos it initially spat out a heap of whitish muck (oxides?) that is also probably still within the absorber as it just didn’t seem to respond to any change to the inlet valve setting. In this case it just held the engine rpm to around 1200, although this didn’t seem correct as it seemed to be revving more than that. Due to the imminent risk of death by electrocution, we figured that we should also fix some of the water leaks.

That being done, it will then go home where I can run it in the back of the shed to really give the neighbours the shits.

Have done a brief vid, but can’t seem to be able to log into youtube to upload it. :cry:

[WilDun]

SLIDER UPDATE.
Well after a time away, an involuntary event and back to some hard work, ............At the same time also wanted to check out the simple load arm and spring scale as I have abandoned the idea of using the software that came with the dyno due to the apparently failed load cell and/or its amplifier.
That being done, it will then go home where I can run it in the back of the shed to really give the neighbours the shits.

I think that you must know your neighbours pretty well and vice versa or you'd think twice before attempting that!

So the absorber is a water brake and you will be calculating everything from the torque and rpm readouts? - sorry but I just need to familiarise myself with all the stuff which I have had no experience with.
Is the absorber constructed similar to a centrifugal pump?.

[Frits Overmars]

Is the absorber constructed similar to a centrifugal pump?.Probably more like a hydraulic torque converter.

[WilDun]

Probably more like a hydraulic torque converter.

Ok, that helps, does make sense! - I understand how a torque converter works!

[ken seeber]

SLIDING CYLINDER.

Found out that I had to use Microsoft Edge to upload cos my Internet Explorer hadn’t been updated.

So here it is, really short and amateurish, but does tell a bit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oBEAt2FIOqE

Willy, when I pull it apart I'll show some pics, but as Frits suggested, I think it'll look like the inside of a torque converter

[Frits Overmars]

SLIDING CYLINDER. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oBEAt2FIOqEI don't trust that rev counter any more than you do Ken. It doesn't happen to come from a four-cylinder car, does it?

[Flettner]

How cool is that.

[WilDun]

Progress! - Hearing it actually going must be good, just keep on developing, - have you still got it at the business premises?, after that's all done (or maybe before) fix that bloody leak and then maybe morph the 3 pipes into one! ;)
Then you can tear down the dyno and show me what it looks like inside!:yes:

[Lightbulb]

Great work there Ken. How important was the water cooled fan?
Let us know when you get some revs on it. Does sound great though that is for sure.
Neil

[WilDun]

Funny how threads wax and wane (this one is on the wane at the moment). I would be interested to know just how many people visiting this thread have actually had a go at casting as well as just having a passing interest. Also, it is sometimes hard to keep track of what is happening and who actually knows who and what is happening with various projects.

The use of private messages probably contributes some to the gaps in the information we receive.
Eg, as I understand it, Neil (aka Flettner) supplied the initial casting to Ken for his sliding cylinder arrangement, but I'm wondering if their projects are still closely tied to each other, or have their ideas and designs diverged somewhat?

It is understandable that if anyone came up with a radical design and which was worthwhile developing, that despite the co-operation we would like to have here, there comes a time when things need to be kept under wraps or at least not to the extent of putting it all on the net for the whole world to see.
It's probably different on threads like ESE (where it's all about wringing the neck of and getting the last quarter horse out of an already over wrought two stroke engine, never designed for such high outputs!). .... and that's bloody good fun I reckon!

There has been a lot of detailed casting info here (almost exclusively by Flettner, but also Michael Moore and I understand Ken from Aus has done a lot in the past plus a few others from all over the world) and even though that detailed stuff has died down, there must be some more of you who have had some experience at foundry work, even if it had nothing to do with bikes!

Haven't heard a lot from the guy who started this thread lately either, (Yow Ling) - I don't really know what he does for a crust (probably tied up doing bikes) but he must have had a strong interest in casting initially, to have started this thread!

Me? - well I'm a retired old "muddler" unable to ride bikes anymore (maybe never really could!) but I still keep an eager eye out for new designs and trends especially in "designed and built from scratch" engines.

This casting obsession goes right back to when I was about 12 when I was casting "medals" in lead and later on visiting the local foundry on the way home from school - actually remember being kicked out for walking on some "mounds" which apparently were moulds ready for pouring!

I also regularly visited the local scrapyard where there were two Bristol sleeve valve radials from a Wellington bomber which crashed locally - these I eventually hoped to get hold of! - like bikes, this stuff gets in your blood but obviously not in your Genes (3 sons and not one of them interested in bikes or foundry stuff!).

My son has allowed me to move my casting gear to his bach (holiday house to our overseas friends) on the proviso that I don't go there and do any casting on my own - he is mildly interested in 3d printers - that's why I have been having a look there.

Bucket Racing? well, watching isn't really as good as taking part - I always miss the Mt Wellington days because I don't seem to have any info on when it's on there !

Sorry, hadn't realised how much I had written - goes to prove you can still actually post something, even if it's F.A. !

[Lightbulb]

It's been many years since I did patterns and sand casting myself. I have made lost wax moulds up until 2009 and dissolveable wax cores as well. But there is no tricks I can add that this thread has not already shown or covered that I am aware of so far. It is great seeing what is being done and how people are doing it.
Neil

[WilDun]

It's been many years since I did patterns and sand casting myself. I have made lost wax moulds up until 2009 and dissolveable wax cores as well. But there is no tricks I can add that this thread has not already shown or covered that I am aware of so far. It is great seeing what is being done and how people are doing it.
Neil

You mentioned "dissolvable wax cores", how do they work? - not sure that I have heard of that process before ...... ???

[Lightbulb]

You mentioned "dissolvable wax cores", how do they work? - not sure that I have heard of that process before ...... ???

Not having read this thread from the very start, I assumed it had been covered.
It is when you make a core to go inside a wax core to create a detail that can not be otherwise created.
It can be placed into the wax mould, then have the wax put in around this core. This core is then dissolved in water
leaving a wax with the detail that a solid core can not provide, like detail that would result in an undercut for example.
It is more expensive and does rely on the people to be really careful in what they are doing. It is another thing to account
for in the shrinkage etc. So in the ones I did, there is guides that fit into the tool that support this soluble wax
and align it in the mould. Of course you are working with what is not going to be there in the final product or working in the
negative so to speak. So sharp edges become essential if you want the result to look good. A chamfer or a radius will
look wrong in some instances. In some cases in order to get the detail where it is needed the soluble wax may need
to take on a bigger roll of coring than what might have initially been envisaged. Like in a model engine, the side transfer soluble
core will need to be the boost and the inner for the cylinder and the inner for the case and shaft tunnel and exhaust stack inner.
This way, you have plenty of areas to stabilise and centralise the soluble core for the wax injection process. The soluble core mould
is made of many sliding parts like a jig saw puzzle in order to create the shapes needed.
Sometimes a melted core is used to help create the soluble core as well. Just depends on the level of difficulty in creating the core
that is needed. A bit like Mr Hintz and his puzzle of parts to make the core and mould he does. But all the core moulds are Steel,
Ali and brass.
Neil

[WilDun]

Of course you are working with what is not going to be there in the final product or working in the
negative so to speak. ........ The soluble core mould is made of many sliding parts like a jig saw puzzle in order to create the shapes needed.
Sometimes a melted core is used to help create the soluble core as well. Just depends on the level of difficulty in creating the core
that is needed. A bit like Mr Hintz and his puzzle of parts to make the core and mould he does. But all the core moulds are Steel,
Ali and brass.
Neil

I think I've got it, - not entirely sure to be honest, :confused: but as I see it, both the finished wax and the soluble wax core will remain as seperate entities when the wax is injected (to form the pattern) and the core will not become part of the wax (wax pattern)?? - so the soluble core must actually have a higher melting point than the "wax" but also be soluble in something - water? or what? - forgive me if I look like a right dick here! (you may have to show some patience) :laugh:

Update: After being dipped and invested etc.to form a mould, the core will then actually become a hollow ceramic shell which is an integral part of the mould?

[Lightbulb]

Sorry Will, Yeah it is in a lost wax system to make the wax that is the final item, that the shell is made from for the casting to take place.
The soluble core, can be dissolved in water or what ever the solvent is for that particular core. It allows you to have a final wax that is the part to be made with the added shrinkage incorporated into it. Then this wax crankcase in my example, is then dipped into investment and sand until a casting mould is created. Then in most cases, they warm the mould and the wax melts out, leaving the cavity for the Alloy to be cast into.
The soluble core is so the wax can be made with detail that could not otherwise be made. The soluble core takes the place of the solid core, except it allows undercuts to be made etc.
Neil

[WilDun]

Sorry Will, Yeah it is in a lost wax system to make the wax that is the final item, that the shell is made from for the casting to take place...........
The soluble core, can be dissolved in water or what ever the solvent is for that particular core.

Yeah ..... well ..... maybe I should try it in order to get to understand it completely! - always the best way. trouble is there's so many things to try and not enough time or resources to do it! sandcasting, Milling ,turning, machine building & repair, 3D draughting to learn, foundry work, designing the ultimate two stroke to bring about the promised two stroke revival! - :rolleyes: ...... I do hope there is such a thing as re-incarnation!

[ken seeber]

SLIDER UPDATE.


Funny how threads wax and wane (this one is on the wane at the moment). I would be interested to know just how many people visiting this thread have actually had a go at casting as well as just having a passing interest. Also, it is sometimes hard to keep track of what is happening and who actually knows who and what is happening with various projects.

Eg, as I understand it, Neil (aka Flettner) supplied the initial casting to Ken for his sliding cylinder arrangement, but I'm wondering if their projects are still closely tied to each other, or have their ideas and designs diverged somewhat?


Willy, you’re in a philosophical mode, but absolutely right, these things do seem to go in waves. As to "ideas and designs diverged somewhat?", not really, just struggling with time and competition from other activities and, I'm sure, the same with Neil.

Neil L. The soluble core you are referring to, what is that made of ? We did have a play with salt bonded sand that was set using a metal hot box. This then could be dissolved in water after the casting had cooled.

Anyways, turned out the dyno wasn’t really at fault, but the blocked/seized exit water flow control valve. So, completely removed this (& the leaks that came with it) and will control the flows with manual valves. Checked the HT tacho against an optical tacho and it reads at half the true value. So when it reads 1270 it is actually 2540 rpm.

Did a brief run today and looks to be ok. From the smoke I can see there is oil in the fuel, or vice versa. :confused:

https://youtu.be/WZhUMpQiTTQ

Made up a spreadsheet, so when I do get it under formal testing, I will use this to manually enter the input values and make the calculations for power and BSFC.

Using this spreadsheet, it can be seen it is running at the 2540 rpm @ 2.9 kW. That is, unless I have made a stuff up somewhere (and that "hawke eyed" Frits embarrasses me again). Also need to fit a calibrated flask so I can measure fuel flow rates and calculate BSFC

[Lightbulb]

Ken, it was a green water soluble wax that we used. The main wax was red, and was not water soluble. Not sure of the Red wax melt temp.
It came from an American investment casting supply company.
Neil

[ken seeber]

Ken, it was a green water soluble wax that we used. The main wax was red, and was not water soluble. Not sure of the Red wax melt temp.
It came from an American investment casting supply company.
Neil

Is this the sort of stuff, they do show a green wax in this?

http://www.freemanwax.com/soluble-waxes.html

One key requirement would be that this wax core isn't affected by the lost wax when this is poured in. Also, what sort of sludge do you end up with after "dissolving" out and can this be re-converted back to the original wax condition?

Good though.

[husaberg]

Not really foundry but bloody neat idea
Not mentioned but its actually a laser guided cutter.
the human only needs to put it in the ballpark area.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xo0CiJjTGJE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p_wk3q8jWcs

PS love the slider Ken.

[Lightbulb]

We never reused the dissolving wax but over time it did slowly deteriorate. I thought it was called hydrocore or something like that. It was green though.
The main wax used in conjunction was red. If there was no soluble core, the wax we used was Green and was tougher than the red and had a slightly higher melt temp. The red was quite brittle and easily damaged compared to the green tough wax. Ofallon casting in Missouri did the production castings in A356 and were heat treated T6 or T7 I don't remember which, and then with a white acid etc to make them look nice.
Now with 3d printed waxes, they are more accurate than the core arrangement and no dies need to be made. Certainly the engine that won the World F2A champs in Perth last year 2016, was a 3d printed lost wax case engine. They could get much better concentricity in the castings and a better geometry in the exhaust duct than by doing it with cores. Then if you wanted to change anything, it was a computer model change and you could get another lot of 5 or 10 or so done.
Neil.

[EssexNick]

That's not at all what I think of as a shaper. Interesting though.

Lb. How much temperature leeway was there between the two waxes? Did you have to monitor this during the red melt?

[WilDun]

Ken, a philosopher tends to be someone who knows all about life and how it should be lived, without actually taking part in it! (is that me?)Also they tend not to be noticed till after they die! - So I guess I've got something to look forward to!.
Looks that you are getting places with everything working as it should, maybe we will hear something different as opposed to a much modified conventional bike engine, keep trying.

I did have a little bit of a struggle getting my head around the wax and investment casting puzzle (not having pretty pictures) at first, but I think I can understand it now, and maybe I'm on the right track

Looking at 3D printing (much to Flettner's disgust) but I don't really want to do anything more than some very small castings for the moment and I do think it might come in handy there!.

I have a small Roland engraver (based on a plotter) which could be a basis for one and which could be quite easily converted to 3 axis. Probably would be just as costly as buying one in the long run though!
I've already got an extruder somewhere, ready to fit, plus a couple of steppers. However, it runs on HPGL (plotter language) as opposed to CNC, so a different controller is required, and a motor etc.to feed the filament. - it would be a challenge but I don't know if it's worth the challenge! - got to have a think about it!

Husa that looks interesting, never heard of that one before!

[Michael Moore]

FormLabs has a resin for the Form2 SLA printer that is designed for use in lost wax casting

https://formlabs.com/materials/jewelry/?utm_content=main-nav

Unfortunately it runs US$2-300/liter which might make it a bit pricey for larger castings, though you could probably honeycomb the insides to stretch the material farther.

Neil, did you ever make use of 3D sand printed molds as from ExOne?

http://www.exone.com/

I looked into that several years ago and the price was on the high end for hobby use, but if you look at the price vs several weeks of time spent making traditional patterns it starts to look a lot more attractive (for many of us hobby time has zero monetary value, commercial stuff costs actual money).

[Lightbulb]

No I have never looked at 3d printed sand.
But being at the top end of what we are doing with model engines, precision is the priority over costs.
Otherwise the engines are in the also ran class.
Neil

[WilDun]

FormLabs has a resin for the Form2 SLA printer that is designed for use in lost wax casting ..........
the price was on the high end for hobby use,(for many of us hobby time has zero monetary value, commercial stuff costs actual money).

Thanks Michael,
Everything is changing at an alarming rate! and I can see 3D printed sand patterns having a great future in the foundry, but also the combining and (sintering?) process using both metal and ceramic powders is very interesting indeed. A bit early to say maybe but this possibly will eventually (at least partially anyway) take over from the casting process itself - if that hasn't already happened!

I would be happy just to carry on with the traditional stuff but in about 5 years time that might become a ludicrous way to do it! - However, I'll just have to remain as I am I guess, as it's too much of a leap for me! - all very interesting and exciting stuff though.

Unfortunate for me (and others) to be born at the wrong time!

[ken seeber]

Neil L, does this pic represent what you are describing? Just that I'm old and slow to keep up with you youngies....:weep:

331678

Also, if you want to spend a shitload on a high res wax printer, you could try one of these:

http://www.solid-scape.com/products/3d-printers/

Let's know when you get it....

[jasonu]

I give up, this is the way to make patterns. Stick your reed valves up your bum, rotary valve is where it's at. .

The Steadmans would agree with that!

[WilDun]

Neil L, does this pic represent what you are describing? Just that I'm old and slow to keep up with you youngies....:weep:...

Yeah, think 1974 would have been better than 1944 (for me).

Those sketches were along the lines I was thinking, but no doubt Lightbulb will confirm that.

And Flettner of course just does it the good old way, he gets results, while people (like me) are still talking about it! - makes us look sick! :sick:

[Flettner]

Yes the Steadmens was right after all.
This is a sensible replacement for my ' universal ' crank case. The original was set up for a YZ gearbox, too hard to find. This has a 175 gearbox, smaller, still robust and available. Water cooled crank case and large rotary valve.
Designed for 100 or 125cc engines.
Reeds are for lawn mower engines🤗

[Lightbulb]

Neil L, does this pic represent what you are describing? Just that I'm old and slow to keep up with you youngies....:weep:

331678

Also, if you want to spend a shitload on a high res wax printer, you could try one of these:

http://www.solid-scape.com/products/3d-printers/

Let's know when you get it....

Yeah, that is it Ken.
If only I did a simple sketch like just did, could have saved a couple of days in posts.
There is an outfit in England with a printer and offers the service printing and casting and heat treating.
That may be the way to go for a few engines for me. I just have lots to think about at the moment and
have to figure out what we are going to do. There maybe some changes after the F3D world champs so will
hold off work on that project for a while.
Neil

[WilDun]

Yes the Steadmens was right after all.
This is a sensible replacement for my ' universal ' crank case. The original was set up for a YZ gearbox, too hard to find. This has a 175 gearbox, smaller, still robust and available. Water cooled crank case and large rotary valve.
Designed for 100 or 125cc engines.
Reeds are for lawn mower engines��

Would love to see just how the variable timing of your rotary valve is "varied" but I don't really expect you'll be disclosing that on here, at least not just yet! :no:

And who the hell are the 'Steadmans' (and I do realize of course than I'm not quite up with the play!) :rolleyes:

[Flettner]

Legend has it that Jimmy Steadman (and Maryann) started bucket racing. They would enevitably meet on the road somewhere on their way to work. Jimmy had a RV Kawasaki 100, Maryann had a Honda 90, so he got beaten to work every time. Maryann goes to the camshaft shop and asks for a cam that 'spits and backfires under 5000 revs' , so next Jimmy is fitting an expansion chamber and off the whole sorry story of bucket racing begins.
The variable RV is in the ESE thread but I wouldn't know how to find it.

[husaberg]

The variable RV is in the ESE thread but I wouldn't know how to find it.
https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=303679&d=1413086052
331684331685331686331687

[guyhockley]

Legend has it that Jimmy Steadman (and Maryann) started bucket racing. They would enevitably meet on the road somewhere on their way to work. Jimmy had a RV Kawasaki 100, Maryann had a Honda 90, so he got beaten to work every time. Maryann goes to the camshaft shop and asks for a cam that 'spits and backfires under 5000 revs' , so next Jimmy is fitting an expansion chamber and off the whole sorry story of bucket racing begins.
The variable RV is in the ESE thread but I wouldn't know how to find it.
Is that the same Jimmy Steadman that built the 750 triple?

[kiwicam]

Legend has it that Jimmy Steadman (and Maryann) started bucket racing. They would enevitably meet on the road somewhere on their way to work. Jimmy had a RV Kawasaki 100, Maryann had a Honda 90, so he got beaten to work every time. Maryann goes to the camshaft shop and asks for a cam that 'spits and backfires under 5000 revs' , so next Jimmy is fitting an expansion chamber and off the whole sorry story of bucket racing begins.
The variable RV is in the ESE thread but I wouldn't know how to find it.

Haha nice legend and not too far from the truth. The thing I can't forget is Jimmy cutting all the fins off his Kawi 100 barrel leaving the top and bottom ones and gas welding a water jacket around it.

actually a few things come back to mind after all these years.

Being totally gobsmacked when the Air Force gave us permission to close the base roads and use virtually the whole base and tarmac to hold the first Woodbourne GP.

Somebody's bike dying in the first practice and being totally stripped to a skeleton by the end of the day.

Battler on a Vespa

Having to machine down the crank webs so the cam they made for the Honda 90 pushrod engine didn't hit it. Balance factor be damned ..

Steadman wearing a pair of paper overalls decorated with colored streamers dicing for the lead with Moston Wadsworth

The spirit of the event.

Great to see buckets still going strong and the fantastic stuff you guys are building

Greetings from Cambodia

JF

[speedpro]

Is that the same Jimmy Steadman that built the 750 triple?

Yes.

Jimmy & Maryann also had a little competition with Z1RTCs. Pretty sure Jim's was pulling 15:30 gearing in the end. Rumours of hitting 174mph and stopping within 1400m and back tyres lasting less then 30km

[WilDun]

Thanks Flettner & Co,
Revelations come in waves! I asked who the Steadmans were and I get all this stuff which just highlights my ignorance in these matters and what a relative newcomer I am - sorry I don't know all this stuff and thanks for the info, but I'm sure I've still got a lot to learn!
One thing I do know however is that if something is missing somewhere, Husa (the archive maestro) will sniff it out - like the variable rv.

[WilDun]

Flettner,
Are you still using the same system today or have you moved on and improved it all since? (as you do).

I devised something vaguely similar (when I had a Kawasaki 100 many years ago) with a two piece sliding backplate - two (almost) semi circles opposing each other and a gap between them, ie at the opposite edge to the port with two cams on the actuating shaft, or possibly a two sided linear cam being pushed /pulled from the perimeter, (but whatever, one cam for each semicircle). therefore making independent operation of opening and closing and plenty of scope for experemintation with timing.
These, nowadays, of course would probably be operated independently by a stepper and a chip!
Did I do it? - no! of course not, I'm not a doer really! - I did do some drawings (sketches) but unlike Husa, I can't find the bloody things - probably went out in the rubbish - possibly were rubbish!

This Kawasaki turned out to be my last bike - I went over the handlebars when an dozey but ambitious dog attacked my front wheel and I ended up in hospital! and the wife said "enough"!, so I bought a very cheap (and ugly) Skoda instead, not going of course :facepalm:- good car, except that she wouldn't go in it - seemed to think that it was a bit of a step down from a Corolla! - I dunno :scratch:

[Grumph]

Yes.

Jimmy & Maryann also had a little competition with Z1RTCs. Pretty sure Jim's was pulling 15:30 gearing in the end. Rumours of hitting 174mph and stopping within 1400m and back tyres lasting less then 30km

If that's "maryanne" Faithfull, he turned up down here in the 90's riding an FZR1000 at club days. Threw it away a couple of times and stopped coming.
Haven't seen him for years.

[Flettner]

If that's "maryanne" Faithfull, he turned up down here in the 90's riding an FZR1000 at club days. Threw it away a couple of times and stopped coming.
Haven't seen him for years.

Yes that MaryAnn,well Grunph, legend has it again ----------

[speedpro]

If that's "maryanne" Faithfull, he turned up down here in the 90's riding an FZR1000 at club days. Threw it away a couple of times and stopped coming.
Haven't seen him for years.

Last I saw of him he was in China and posting slightly raunchy videos of his girlfriend. Noone is betting on him not being in jail.

[ken seeber]

Last I saw of him he was in China and posting slightly raunchy videos of his girlfriend. Noone is betting on him not being in jail.

"slightly raunchy videos of his girlfriend"

Wow, dealing with molten metal is getting better and better all the time...:laugh:

[Grumph]

Last I saw of him he was in China and posting slightly raunchy videos of his girlfriend. Noone is betting on him not being in jail.

From what I remember of his riding on the FZR, that's probably marginally safer.

[Flettner]

Getting some design advice from a higher authority.

[Carel H]

Better listen carefully. I see the "Why did you that in that way, while I told you otherwise?" in his eyes. And they are always right.

[WilDun]

Better listen carefully. I see the "Why did you that in that way, while I told you otherwise?" in his eyes. And they are always right.

No, no, you've got it wrong - he/she is saying WTF is this thing doing on my pozzie?? - was it done on a 3D printer? - If it wasn't done on a 3D printer then it won't work! :msn-wink:

[Flettner]

Don't be fooled by that 'butter wouldn't melt in it's mouth' look, Miss Sparkles (Don't ask) would just as soon rip your face off! She says fill my food bowl, so like a good servant, I do.

[kiwicam]

Last I saw of him he was in China and posting slightly raunchy videos of his girlfriend. Noone is betting on him not being in jail.

totally escaped jail

[Flettner]

Hi John, good to see you here.

[ken seeber]

Meteor sent us a couple of vids you might find interesting:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tEuduQ8Bs6Y&feature=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uBAK0N-fpvw&feature=youtu.be

[guyhockley]

Wonder if this stuff would be of any use for our purposes?
http://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/reusable-blue-stuff/2-blue-stuff-mold-4-bars.html

[Lightbulb]

Is anyone selling the blue stuff out here?

Great video's on making pistons. I seem to recall seeing some outfit near Perth that was very high tech in their casting approach.
Neil

[EssexNick]

Maplins used to sell something very similar to this. It went hard when cool, so I don't know if it would be possible to use it in the same way as vinamold. I never tried the stuff but seem to remember it goes like putty when hot and may not be pourable. That blue stuff could well turn liquid enough to be of use.

[WilDun]

Maplins used to sell something very similar to this. It went hard when cool, so I don't know if it would be possible to use it in the same way as vinamold. I never tried the stuff but seem to remember it goes like putty when hot and may not be pourable. That blue stuff could well turn liquid enough to be of use.

It appears to have the same texture when cooled as the stuff used by the dental people to take a pattern of people's gums etc. for false teeth - (could even be the same stuff or similar)
I did manage to cadge some of the dental stuff recently and am waiting for an opportunity to use it - it's got to be good!
Seems it is made from some sort of seaweed and is non toxic .... and I got it free!
However it is in powder form and is mixed with water initally to set it going, so I guess there is a difference there!

[EssexNick]

Having false teeth myself, I know the stuff you mean. At the time I was fitted for them I did ask about that stuff. My dentist said something about it having a limited life after it had been mixed. Probably because it's organic. I didn't pursue this any further as casting is really a bit of a pipe dream for me. It could well be a very useful thing to use, but not for something that repeatedly gets put to one side for weeks on end. Please let us know how you get on.

[Flettner]

Argh, finally got the new furnace up and running, cast three new 360 gyro cylinders with the thicker power valve boss. These have been moulded in sand for over a month now so.way past time to cast.
I've changed the metal inlet port.to the mold, it's smaller so fills the cavity slower. Less turbulence in the metal as it fills, no bubbling at all now, slow smooth fill. Learn as we go, just not too slow or you will.end up with a short.
Got forced into a corner, this bloody caravan I bought (classic 70's) has ended up one of the wife's favorite things so now the bloody weekends are spent not in my workshop.
I'm using the caravan time to learn my three D drawing programs so I guess not all bad.

[guyhockley]

Having false teeth myself, I know the stuff you mean. At the time I was fitted for them I did ask about that stuff. My dentist said something about it having a limited life after it had been mixed. Probably because it's organic. I didn't pursue this any further as casting is really a bit of a pipe dream for me. It could well be a very useful thing to use, but not for something that repeatedly gets put to one side for weeks on end. Please let us know how you get on.

Think you're talking about alginate, widely used for arts and crafts moulding. Hobby shops sell it in the UK.

[WilDun]

I ordered some of that blue stuff anyway ( just to check it out) - The soft Vinamold I have is the brown jelly like stuff and probably needs to be harder. I think this blue stuff may not be rubbery enough though, but worth a try I guess (not too expensive) and doesn't need to be heated much. - but let's see how it goes.

[WilDun]

Argh, finally got the new furnace up and running, cast three new 360 gyro cylinders with the thicker power valve boss. These have been moulded in sand for over a month now so.way past time to cast...........
...........I'm using the caravan time to learn my three D drawing programs so I guess not all bad.

Yes the perfect setting for learning 3D - nothing to get sidetracked on and looking at the view gets a bit tedious after a while!
Guess you'll need a good heater these days!

[Flettner]

Yes it has a good heater, thankfully. I bought the caravan spur of the moment thing, for use at the Aria two day trail ride (sick of putting up the tent in the dark) but now we are using it for just getting away on the weekend. It's old school with 70's styling, orange and brown wood grain interior. love it!
Just cleaned the sand out of the three cylinder castings, all appears sound.

[Frits Overmars]

I bought the caravan spur of the moment thing (sick of putting up the tent in the dark)... It's old school with 70's styling, orange and brown wood grain interior. love it!Great minds think alike :p.
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[Grumph]

Yes it has a good heater, thankfully. I bought the caravan spur of the moment thing, for use at the Aria two day trail ride (sick of putting up the tent in the dark) but now we are using it for just getting away on the weekend. It's old school with 70's styling, orange and brown wood grain interior. love it!
Just cleaned the sand out of the three cylinder castings, all appears sound.

Well you know where I am now, plenty of room to park up here on a SI trip.

[Flettner]

Thank you Grumph, be careful what you wish for.
Same old, just 360 cylinders again, nothing fancy but this time perhaps useful.
Note the new furnace layout. The incoming blast from the burner was always hard on my thermal lining, usually had to repack an area inside after each melt. With this new setup the burner blast it taken by the bricks, much more robust system.

[WilDun]

Thank you Grumph, be careful what you wish for.
Same old, just 360 cylinders again, nothing fancy but this time perhaps useful.
Note the new furnace layout. The incoming blast from the burner was always hard on my thermal lining, usually had to repack an area inside after each melt. With this new setup the burner blast it taken by the bricks, much more robust system.

No overkill on that furnace!,
A good tip:- Use an old (good quality) dinner plate to take the blast from the burner, they will take white heat (occasionally they fall apart, but plenty more where that came from!)

[WilDun]

Great minds think alike

So which is your current one? #2 or #4? ;)

[Frits Overmars]

#4 (a rental) was the most recent one. Come to think of it, I forgot to show #0.
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[guyhockley]

I ordered some of that blue stuff anyway ( just to check it out) - The soft Vinamold I have is the brown jelly like stuff and probably needs to be harder. I think this blue stuff may not be rubbery enough though, but worth a try I guess (not too expensive) and doesn't need to be heated much. - but let's see how it goes.

I wonder if Blue Stuff IS Vinamold. You're supposed to heat it to 100 degrees to soften it enough to take impressions, maybe if you heat it to 170 it would be pourable. Conversely, Vinamold heated in boiling water may behave the same as Blue Stuff? I have some red Vinamold but can't get at it for the moment.

[WilDun]

I wonder if Blue Stuff IS Vinamold. You're supposed to heat it to 100 degrees to soften it enough to take impressions, maybe if you heat it to 170 it would be pourable. Conversely, Vinamold heated in boiling water may behave the same as Blue Stuff? I have some red Vinamold but can't get at it for the moment.

We'll soon see, I've taken the brave step of ordering some, dunno if it'll be of any use in the foundry but got to give it a try - my feeling is that it isn't as resilient (rubbery) as Vinamold. so may not be good to remove from awkward cavities such as transfer ports/passages - might still be of interest to the grandkids though!



#4 (a rental) was the most recent one. Come to think of it, I forgot to show #0.

Yes! that's the one for me - #0! (with batteries, solar panels and of course an electric motor) ie when they finally take my car licence away - then I can have an electric blanket as well! - clean and green........ beat that Flettner!

AFTERTHOUGHT - Maybe a Dustbin fairing as well!

[Flettner]

360 cylinders are away being heat treated at the moment.
New 125 RV crank case near complesion will accept all these cylinders and some still on the pattern bench.
Also will accept the epicylic crank.

[husaberg]

The middle one in pic 4 looks flash........

[Flettner]

I've scoped out how the tooling works, might have some spare ones soon. Need to make up a molding box to contain it all but apart from that I'll have a hack at casting one next melt.
I'd like to get these cases cast too but there is still some work to do on them.

[husaberg]

I've scoped out how the tooling works, might have some spare ones soon. Need to make up a molding box to contain it all but apart from that I'll have a hack at casting one next melt.
I'd like to get these cases cast too but there is still some work to do on them.

Exactly what gearbox are the cases for?

[WilDun]

The middle one in pic 4 looks flash........

I feel that the middle one is designed to contain some high pressures! but no doubt, we'll find out!
Maybe I haven't been paying enough attention and have allowed myself to get behind and lose track of what is happening (I'm good at that!)!

[Frits Overmars]

I feel that the middle one is designed to contain some high pressures!You've got that right WilDun. Fletto is even adding a sixth head stud.
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[Grumph]

You've got that right WilDun. Fletto is even adding a sixth head stud.

Well. at least it's not a direct copy, LOL...More "school of Aprilia" Husa's moulds I assume.

Looking at the finished cylinder, and particularly the small ridges on the inside of the water jacket, can anyone come up with a reason for them ?
Is it just an artistic flourish on the part of the patternmaker or is there a purpose to them ?

[Carel H]

Well. at least it's not a direct copy, LOL...More "school of Aprilia" Husa's moulds I assume.

Looking at the finished cylinder, and particularly the small ridges on the inside of the water jacket, can anyone come up with a reason for them ?
Is it just an artistic flourish on the part of the patternmaker or is there a purpose to them ?

Could be a cooling plate. Where the casters want the solidifying to start. Had a magnesium casting done in Germany and the casting had something similar. And if the Germans do something, they do it for a reason!

[F5 Dave]

What were the leather shorts about then?

[Carel H]

What were the leather shorts about then?

I think heat shielding.

[husaberg]

Well. at least it's not a direct copy, LOL...More "school of Aprilia" Husa's moulds I assume.

Looking at the finished cylinder, and particularly the small ridges on the inside of the water jacket, can anyone come up with a reason for them ?
Is it just an artistic flourish on the part of the patternmaker or is there a purpose to them ?

id suggest ón the gen Aprilia it where the multiple infill sections of cores are added, as it appears undercut there, it might just be the only way to install them might just be as thin sections slipped in from the side.
the other (Flettner)ones are cast as two seperate sides left and right.

[WilDun]

What were the leather shorts about then?

Have you ever tried "wandering" in the wet mountains in leather longs?:rolleyes:

[husaberg]

Have you ever tried walking around in the wet mountains in leather longs?:rolleyes:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0yt9R0I3gSk

[ken seeber]

Maybe instead of all buying a bit of a Ryger (see ESE) we could all chip in and get one of these:

http://www.humtown.com/hp/products/3d-printed-sand-cores-molds/
http://www.exone.com/

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[husaberg]

Maybe instead of all buying a bit of a Ryger (see ESE) we could all chip in and get one of these:

http://www.humtown.com/hp/products/3d-printed-sand-cores-molds/
http://www.exone.com/

331884

No names for the cheque, just send cash.......:laugh:
I bet flets been casting today hes gone all quiet.

[F5 Dave]

Just make it out to Christian Adult Society Helpers. Yes that is a long name, just the initials will do.
(Credit to the New Statesman)



Now if I could just find my cheque book. Think I left it in the previous century.

[Pursang]

Maybe instead of all buying a bit of a Ryger (see ESE) we could all chip in and get one of these:

http://www.humtown.com/hp/products/3d-printed-sand-cores-molds/
http://www.exone.com/

331884

May I please have one in Cast Iron, small fins, with a flange on the bottom?:drool: