ESE's works engine tuner

[ApolloMotoMoto]

Curious if anyone here has any experience with 3d printing functional intake parts, reed valve boxes, reed valve bodies, carburetor mounting flanges, etc.

Bonus points for experience with ethanol/methanol fuels using 3d printed intake parts.

For a few reasons I am attempting to come up with a working solution for 3d printed reed boxes for my application.

3-4 different carbon type filaments have been used in standard FDM style printers, and so far have failed pretty miserably.

Following a thread from a few different manufacturers that are actually selling retail 3d printed intake parts, I have my latest round of test parts back, printed out of Nylon PA11 and Nylon PA12 (expirimenting between the two) printed on an HP MJF machine, the important distinction being that its not a filament deposition technology, but instead a "powder bed fusion" technology.

Pictured below.

The darker "flange" that bolts to the cylinder is Nylon PA11, the lighter reed box that bolts to the flange is Nylon PA12.

Will post back with the results from testing these samples.

[Gradella23]

Curious if anyone here has any experience with 3d printing functional intake parts, reed valve boxes, reed valve bodies, carburetor mounting flanges, etc.

Bonus points for experience with ethanol/methanol fuels using 3d printed intake parts.

For a few reasons I am attempting to come up with a working solution for 3d printed reed boxes for my application.

3-4 different carbon type filaments have been used in standard FDM style printers, and so far have failed pretty miserably.

Following a thread from a few different manufacturers that are actually selling retail 3d printed intake parts, I have my latest round of test parts back, printed out of Nylon PA11 and Nylon PA12 (expirimenting between the two) printed on an HP MJF machine, the important distinction being that its not a filament deposition technology, but instead a "powder bed fusion" technology.

Pictured below.

The darker "flange" that bolts to the cylinder is Nylon PA11, the lighter reed box that bolts to the flange is Nylon PA12.

Will post back with the results from testing these samples.

I regularly use MJF PA12 reed cages on my engines with no issues. The material is super strong and you can even make threads on it

[quallman1234]

Curious if anyone here has any experience with 3d printing functional intake parts, reed valve boxes, reed valve bodies, carburetor mounting flanges, etc.

Bonus points for experience with ethanol/methanol fuels using 3d printed intake parts.

For a few reasons I am attempting to come up with a working solution for 3d printed reed boxes for my application.

3-4 different carbon type filaments have been used in standard FDM style printers, and so far have failed pretty miserably.

Following a thread from a few different manufacturers that are actually selling retail 3d printed intake parts, I have my latest round of test parts back, printed out of Nylon PA11 and Nylon PA12 (expirimenting between the two) printed on an HP MJF machine, the important distinction being that its not a filament deposition technology, but instead a "powder bed fusion" technology.

Pictured below.

The darker "flange" that bolts to the cylinder is Nylon PA11, the lighter reed box that bolts to the flange is Nylon PA12.

Will post back with the results from testing these samples.

Hey ya,

I've just printed an airbox for our TST100 project. It took a bit of playing around but i have sucessfully printed PA6-CF and PPA-CF to a decent level on a consumer FDM printer (Creatliy K1 Max). I even had the lid off.
Its actually pretty easy. Theres just one trick. Buy a filament dryer and dry the living shit out of it for a few days at the max temp (or around 80c if it goes that high). And print directly from the dryer after that.
Another trick is that supports are quite hard to get off. Tree supports are a bit easier.
I printed on a smooth bed with lots of glue stick.
I just used pretty generic profiles in Orca for it, and it printed all good.

Side note heres a little TST100 update : https://www.youtube.com/shorts/OlqkOsqxdw0


This filament is the eSun PA-CF. But had similar results with other brands.

[F5 Dave]

Cool update, pipes look good.

[TZ350]

Speedpros's 40 RWHP twin cylinder turbocharged FXR125. A cut down 4 cylinder FXR250.

Maybe we should relax the F4 rules to allow turbo/supercharging up to 125cc four strokes and 100cc two strokes. Just a thought.

[F5 Dave]

K'n hell! So yeah drop it down to 100cc, but then just turn up the boost and be back there.
Really turbos have proven again and again they make silly power in racing classes.

[speedpro]

Regarding 3D printing. I've been looking seriously at 3D printing a few bits. I'm tending towards nylon with carbon but that's as far as I've got with filament selection. Drying is critical, and not just with "special" filaments. I've been drying filaments in the printer on the print plate set to 50-60°C and then storing the reels in plastic buckets with tight fitting lids and with trays of "damprid" inside. Last I checked with the little humidity gauge I bought it was sitting at 26%. The other thought I've had is that the orientation of the part on the print plate should be considered. I normally go for minimum support with other mundane things, but I think there will be benefits with having filament orientation running the length of parts. Velocity stacks might benefit from being printed on their side with the filament running their length. Having said that I've only ever printed stacks on end. I've got a Bambu Labs P1S which is a very nice printer.

[speedpro]

Speedpros's 40 RWHP twin cylinder turbocharged FXR125. A cut down 4 cylinder FXR250.

Maybe we should relax the F4 rules to allow turbo/supercharging up to 125cc four strokes and 100cc two strokes. Just a thought.

FZR250. Imagine a 80hp turbo 250.

[ApolloMotoMoto]

Regarding 3D printing. I've been looking seriously at 3D printing a few bits. I'm tending towards nylon with carbon but that's as far as I've got with filament selection. Drying is critical, and not just with "special" filaments. I've been drying filaments in the printer on the print plate set to 50-60°C and then storing the reels in plastic buckets with tight fitting lids and with trays of "damprid" inside. Last I checked with the little humidity gauge I bought it was sitting at 26%. The other thought I've had is that the orientation of the part on the print plate should be considered. I normally go for minimum support with other mundane things, but I think there will be benefits with having filament orientation running the length of parts. Velocity stacks might benefit from being printed on their side with the filament running their length. Having said that I've only ever printed stacks on end. I've got a Bambu Labs P1S which is a very nice printer.

That is the 'magic' of "powder bed fusion" 3d printing technologies, the powder bed provides support, for one, so no need for any tree's in any case;

But waaaaay more importantly, the nature of how the grains are fused together, you have full isometric load distrubtion through the part REGARDLESS of print orientation.

There is no "plane of cleavage" along the slicer plane like with FDM style 3d printing.

Yes, you can "account" for the fact that you have a "weak plane", but this adds a lot of complexity to the design review process, and may not necessarily be intuitive to find the best solution in all cases.

Powder bed fusion 3d printing does NOT have a plane of cleavage, it has a truly isometric load distribution.

All my failed FDM 3d prints failed along the "slicer" plane.

[quallman1234]

Regarding 3D printing. I've been looking seriously at 3D printing a few bits. I'm tending towards nylon with carbon but that's as far as I've got with filament selection. Drying is critical, and not just with "special" filaments. I've been drying filaments in the printer on the print plate set to 50-60°C and then storing the reels in plastic buckets with tight fitting lids and with trays of "damprid" inside. Last I checked with the little humidity gauge I bought it was sitting at 26%. The other thought I've had is that the orientation of the part on the print plate should be considered. I normally go for minimum support with other mundane things, but I think there will be benefits with having filament orientation running the length of parts. Velocity stacks might benefit from being printed on their side with the filament running their length. Having said that I've only ever printed stacks on end. I've got a Bambu Labs P1S which is a very nice printer.

Can confirm its about drying any filament. even pla it helps

[diesel pig]

FZR250. Imagine a 80hp turbo 250.

In a book I read a while ago that is what Honda wanted to do in the GP250 class in the early 1980's but those in charge said a turbo is basically a exhaust driven supercharger and supercharging is not allow in GP racing. It's a good thing they ever worked out what a well designed expansion chamber do on a two stroke.

[husaberg]

In a book I read a while ago that is what Honda wanted to do in the GP250 class in the early 1980's but those in charge said a turbo is basically a exhaust driven supercharger and supercharging is not allow in GP racing. It's a good thing they ever worked out what a well designed expansion chamber do on a two stroke.

From memory the oval piston 250 turbo was run a few times wth Fredy. I have feeling it was a v twim.
Pretty sure hrc also turbo'd a Vt250. and ran in in a race series.
google
https://enoanderson.com/2015/11/11/h...anti-regulasi/
https://enoanderson.com/2015/11/11/h...ti-regulasi/2/
Plus a pick of thehonda rear disc 125 twin i had never seen before t(he pic not the bike)
https://magazine.cycleworld.com/arti...eyond-pit-road