The Bucket Foundry

[husaberg]

seen this...
http://thekneeslider.com/pattern-making-as-engineering-art-the-musket-v-twin/

http://thekneeslider.com/casting-the-musket-v-twin-engine/

[husaberg]

might have posted this one before.....
But it has what I am looking for.....
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=112614

[WilDun]

might have posted this one before.....
But it has what I am looking for.....
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=112614

HUSA,
That's quite a good site for a beginner (like me) pretty clear descriptions and of course, related to bikes!
I have got my furnace mostly all cast (in refractory concrete) and it will also be wrapped up with ceramic wool - I got that for nothing and it saved me $80 or so on refractory concrete ! - it's all a little harder to do than it seemed at first! - but maybe soon ....... who knows:rolleyes:

[husaberg]

https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/t1.0-9/378762_10150494574170909_610796520_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/t31.0-8/680576_559171080762977_935463112_o.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t31.0-8/177284_559171817429570_1998206609_o.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/t31.0-8/622667_551736978173054_2017921509_o.jpg

[husaberg]

http://www.twowheels.com.au/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=19618&view=print

[F5 Dave]

That's weird, it'll never work I can see why he said the pattern maker had brain fade. There's no room for the bore and the ports are no good and I can't see the transfers at all. Oh well next time hell get it right.

[WilDun]

That's weird, it'll never work Oh well next time hell get it right.

Yes, lets hope he does get it right next time - if this was for a large production run then I guess the foundry, patternmaker or whoever was doing the cores, will be able to absorb the cost of the cockup but if it's for a one or two off job then bang go the profits!
I'm amazed that even the proof casting actually went ahead though, ie. without any core setting problem (or whatever) being detected!

Transfers did you say?? what transfers?

PS guess it's 2T all the way for you, 4T doesnt't compute - I would be inclined to agree with you there! - however 4T would also interest me but for the extra complication, size, weight cost etc. etc!

[F5 Dave]

Yeah and they only fire 1/2 the time and make forty noises. Folly if you ask me.

[Flettner]

Here is the crankshaft for my 2 x 25cc cylinders. Horrizontally opposed twin.

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_4936_zps02b23da2.jpg

Here is where I want to put it. A pre rotater engine for the gyro, not used in flight, only to get the rotors turning before you roll forward for takeoff. Need 5 / 6HP with no weight.

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_4939_zpse9d96ae1.jpg

The spiders are going to get a fright soon enough.

[Flettner]

Here we are slowly moving on with the new RG cylinder.

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_4938_zps52a21a1d.jpg

[WilDun]

Here is the crankshaft for my 2 x 25cc cylinders. Horrizontally opposed twin.


I did wonder what you were going to do with a twin 50! - Will it need some sort of clutch as well ?
Guess it won't need a real big radiator - how long will it be used for each time?
Have you settled on how to approach the chrome bore problem? I was going to say earlier that Briggs & Stratton have been flash plating their aluminium bores sucessfully (not sure exactly how it's done) for probably 60 years!

[Flettner]

There needs to be a gear reduction in the system ( before the bendix ), this will be a planetary gear system with a clutch band around the outside. Stop the ring turning to provide drive, simple. I'm still not sure on the bore, just it can't cost anything. I know Frits does not like the brass sleeves idea but it only needs 2.5 / 3 HP per cylinder, I think I can get away with that. I can get the cylinders chromed here in Hamilton for bugger all ( on to brass ), and grind them myself. Only has to run for approx two minutes at a time.

[TZ350]

Here we are slowly moving on with the new RG cylinder.

RG cylinder, now, that looks interesting .....

[WilDun]

Frits does not like the brass sleeves idea but it only needs 2.5 / 3 HP per cylinder,
I can get the cylinders chromed here in Hamilton for bugger all ( on to brass ), and grind them myself.

I did talk to an electroplating guy here in Auckland about doing some small cylinder liners a few years ago and he more or less said the same thing (ie brass was by far the best for chroming)

He also said that the chrome is always deposited thickest at each end of the bore and might have to be ground down there a couple of times during chroming in order to allow the depth of chrome in the middle to keep up.

[WilDun]

I'm not too familiar with posting attachments here, does anyone know how I can attach a PDF file in a post? - guess there must be a way, its just that I haven't found it yet :rolleyes:

[Grumph]

I did talk to an electroplating guy here in Auckland about doing some small cylinder liners a few years ago and he more or less said the same thing (ie brass was by far the best for chroming)

He also said that the chrome is always deposited thickest at each end of the bore and might have to be ground down there a couple of times during chroming in order to allow the depth of chrome in the middle to keep up.

Guzzi did thousands of chrome bores in the 50's and 60's. Apparently, they used a barrel shaped anode to even out the chrome spread.

Having worked with a plater here in ChCh on trying to recover worn crankpins, it was apparent (1) most hard chrome applications need an anode shape unique to the job...and (2) A lot of platers won't listen cos "they know best".....

[husaberg]

I'm not too familiar with posting attachments here, does anyone know how I can attach a PDF file in a post? - guess there must be a way, its just that I haven't found it yet :rolleyes:

attachments next to the smiley faces looks like a paper clip there are size limitations though

[Flettner]

Guzzi did thousands of chrome bores in the 50's and 60's. Apparently, they used a barrel shaped anode to even out the chrome spread.

Having worked with a plater here in ChCh on trying to recover worn crankpins, it was apparent (1) most hard chrome applications need an anode shape unique to the job...and (2) A lot of platers won't listen cos "they know best".....

Hard chrome plates here in Hamilton do aviation cylinders so they are aware of the anode requirements for cylinders. I'll just have to make something special ( small ) to suit my cylinders.

[Grumph]

Another option is a "transplant" coating....It's a bit difficult without pressure diecasting though, but maybe...

what happens is a steel mandrel of the correct OD for the new bore size is prepared - hard chromed and highly polished.
the bore surface is then applied to the mandrel OD - usually nicasil or similar but "spraysteel" has been used too which is just as it suggests, metalsprayed steel.
The mandrel and coating is put in the mould hot and the casting done...

the mandrel should press out leaving a parallel bore...

If you wanted to key it to a sand casting, it might be possible to metalspray the od of the coating with aluminium. There were outfits doing metalspraying all over NZ but they seem to have dropped away of late.

[WilDun]

Guzzi apparently used a barrel shaped anode to even out the chrome spread.
(1) most hard chrome applications need an anode shape unique to the job...and (2) A lot of platers won't listen cos "they know best".....

What you've said about Guzzi is very interesting, in fact all of what you've said (including (2) ).
A lot of guys are in a rut and so used to doing things a certain way (inside the square) that they will never improve by looking outside the square.
Others, by taking a chance and accepting the odd failure while trying something new, can hit the jackpot! - and I must say there are plenty of those in Bucket circles! :yes:

[jasonu]

Nothing is imposible is just weather it is worth it(the time)
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=254582&d=1325836568

That looks like a great job for a 3D printer.

[husaberg]

That looks like a great job for a 3D printer.
Are you speaking American Jason? It was done with tools and stuff.........

[WilDun]

Here is the crankshaft for my 2 x 25cc cylinders. Horrizontally opposed twin.


FLETTNER
Guess you made the cranks for the little boxer yourself (except rods). What material do you use? case hardening steel or hi tensile?
Why a twin?

[jasonu]

Are you speaking American Jason? It was done with tools and stuff.........

Yes I see that. What I ment was it COULD be done on a 3D printer.

[F5 Dave]

FLETTNER
Guess you made the cranks for the little boxer yourself (except rods). What material do you use? case hardening steel or hi tensile?
Why a twin?
Instead of a V4. Good point. Next F4 project?

[Flettner]

FLETTNER
Guess you made the cranks for the little boxer yourself (except rods). What material do you use? case hardening steel or hi tensile?
Why a twin?

I made these crank parts years ago ( uniflow engine ), decided they would do better being used.
Crank halves are made of 4140, not hardended but I might nitride them this time. The center offset pin part is new and is made of EN39B to be case hardened, this part is away being stress relieved at the moment. The idea behind a horrizontal opp twin is for ballance ( so the bloody thing won't vibrate up in the rotorhead ). I thought if I made a reasonable job of the cylinder ( porting ) them the same cylinder design could be used for a 50cc twin or a 100cc four. Perhaps?

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/DSCF5108_zpsdcb0ea4b.jpg

This is one of the uniflow cranks. There is a 6 degree lead on the exhaust piston, lots of blow down time.

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/DSCF5109_zps49c43a63.jpg

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/DSCF5111_zpsa685cb45.jpg

I know I've posted these pictures before.

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/DSCF5114_zps3d8a30ec.jpg

[WilDun]

I made these crank parts years ago ( uniflow engine ), decided they would do better being used.
the same cylinder design could be used for a 50cc twin or a 100cc four. Perhaps?
I know I've posted these pictures before.


Geez mate, you have done all the sort of things that I used to dream about doing! I'm afraid I'm a "gunna". Just goes to show, you never should throw anything away, might come in handy, eh!
How did the uniflow 100 go anyway? guess it would be a little costly to manufacture?
I hadn't seen the pictures before as I still haven't waded through them all as yet.

Having said that, I fired up my furnace yesterday - not quite finished it yet but I couldn't resist doing a premature test firing! - got to make some tongs for the crucible now and try my first melt. I'm doing a "complete" plaster mould for speed and simplicity ( I need to learn the art of sand moulding before trying that), this has a plastic pattern ( a T bar handle off a plastic ball valve) which will be burnt out in the furnace - don't really know how it'll go, but I'm definitely going to do it.
I think I was a little close to the house as I heard the eaves cracking from the exhaust heat, got to get out a bit further I reckon! The heat off those things is quite scary! :eek5:

[WilDun]

The big idler gear in the uniflow drive train reminds me of the gear train driving the DOHC on the Guzzi V8!

[Flettner]

Geez mate, you have done all the sort of things that I used to dream about doing! I'm afraid I'm a "gunna". Just goes to show, you never should throw anything away, might come in handy, eh!
How did the uniflow 100 go anyway? guess it would be a little costly to manufacture?
I hadn't seen the pictures before as I still haven't waded through them all as yet.



It had it's moments, it was an interesting project. Biggest problem was the sleeves, first nitrided steel, then chromed steel, then finally cast iron. The iron ring against the iron bore resulted in short ring life, approx 20 min.
I tried to cool the steel sleeves direct with water so the sleeve ended up very thin and would distort.
I have posted this before too but here is version two ( 440cc ) running in a boat. Best run is toward the end of the video, 9200 rpm. Home cast pistons.


http://youtu.be/uiXsPkP9jvw

Here is a new version ( 640cc ) that is waiting for nikasil bores, it's going to cost a lot so that's why it's put aside for the moment.

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/DSCF5115_zpsbba1b95d.jpg

[WilDun]

Biggest problem was the sleeves, first nitrided steel, then chromed steel, then finally cast iron. The iron ring against the iron bore resulted in short ring life, approx 20 min.
I tried to cool the steel sleeves direct with water so the sleeve ended up very thin and would distort.


looks like the piston phasing is "four up four down" - how good is the balance? pretty good I should imagine. How would two opposing pistons at TDC and two opposing at BDC work? - guess you've tried that too!
If you were using tuned pipes would it be possible to just to use just one pipe successfully? (ie 4 up 4 down)
In the case of this engine, do you think it would make any difference at all whether the crankshafts were rotating in the same direction or contra rotating?

[Flettner]

looks like the piston phasing is "four up four down" - how good is the balance? pretty good I should imagine. How would two opposing pistons at TDC and two opposing at BDC work? - guess you've tried that too!
If you were using tuned pipes would it be possible to just to use just one pipe successfully? (ie 4 up 4 down)
In the case of this engine, do you think it would make any difference at all whether the crankshafts were rotating in the same direction or contra rotating?

The way this odd ball engine works, it needs to have all the crankcases pumping together. Yes one chamber would work. When this 100cc engine was in the bike frame it used two chambers. 2x two into one. On the first engine cranks rotated the same, second engine cranks counter rotated. No difference both smooth. The new 640cc engine cranks will counter rotate again, driving two two bladed props, intermeshing, counter rotating. No torque output from the engine to frame mounting. Also canceled out gyroscopic effects.

[WilDun]

The way this odd ball engine works, it needs to have all the crankcases pumping together. Yes one chamber would work. When this 100cc engine was in the bike frame it used two chambers. 2x two into one. On the first engine cranks rotated the same, second engine cranks counter rotated. No difference both smooth. The new 640cc engine cranks will counter rotate again, driving two two bladed props, intermeshing, counter rotating. No torque output from the engine to frame mounting. Also canceled out gyroscopic effects.

Very good and very interesting about the gyroscopic effects being cancelled out, also the lack of vibration.
Would be worried about the diameter of a two bladed prop being restricted though? - unless they have a gearbox for each crank to position the prop shafts further apart - naw, forget that - silly solution! :facepalm: (just rambling on my part!). Three bladed?
It does seem like it might make a very good aircraft engine when you consider some of the benefits you've mentioned and which you certainly wouldn't get with a conventional engine.

I can remember the old Commer TS3 two stroke diesel trucks with their 3 cylinder opposed piston engines ( a bit different crank arrangement to your one), bit noisy maybe, but ran smooth as - a very successful engine! - possibly not a fantastic commercial success though, due to the post war doldrums.

http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel/rootes-listerts3/ts3.htm

Sorry, I'm really getting away from bikes or foundries now!

[Flettner]

, or synchropter, produced by Anton Flettner of Germany. According to Yves Le Bec, the Flettner Fl 282 was the world's first series production helicopter.[1]

Like this synchropter but as a pusher prop instead. I'm trying to put up a link but can't, Google Anton Flettner helicopter.

[husaberg]

http://www.aviastar.org/helicopters_eng/flettner_kolibri.php
http://www.aviastar.org/helicopters_eng/flettner-265.php
http://www.pprune.org/rotorheads/245168-sikorsky-x2-coaxial-heli-developments-9.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flettner_Fl_265


The pioneer work of Anton Flettner is often overshadowed by the more publicised activities of his contemporaries Focke and Sikorsky; yet Flettner's first fully practical helicopter, the Fl 265, was far superior to the Fw 61 and made a successful free flight several months before the VS-300 began tethered flights. Flettner's first rotorcraft, flown in 1932, had a 2-blade rotor 29.87m in diameter, with a 30hp Anzani engine mounted part of the way along each blade driving a propeller - a form of propulsion similar to that used by the Italian Vittorio Isacco on his so-called 'helicogyros' developed in the U.S.S.R. in the 1930s. The Flettner machine made a successful tethered take-off, but later overturned during a gale and was written off. His next significant design was the Fl 184 single-seat autogyro; powered by a 150hp Sh.14 radial engine, it flew in 1935 and was due to be evaluated by the German Navy when it, too, was unfortunately destroyed. The next design was the Fl 185, whose prototype (D-EFLT) flew in 1936 and had a 3-blade main rotor. The centrally-mounted Sh.14A engine drove, in addition to the rotor, two small anti-torque propellers on outriggers each side of the cabin and a large cooling fan in the nose.

By this time, however, Flettner had developed the idea of counter-rotating, intermeshing twin rotors. Many of his advisers thought that the airflow disturbed by the intermeshing blades would make this system less efficient than one using a single rotor; but Flettner believed that any problems thus encountered would be more than offset by the reduced drag resulting from having no external rotor-carrying structure. He proved his point by installing such a system in the Fl 265, whose prototype (D-EFLV) flew in May 1939. At this time encouragement for the development of small helicopters came mostly from the German Navy, on whose behalf six Fl 265's had been ordered in 1938 with a view to developing a machine suitable for shipboard reconnaissance and anti-submarine patrol. Service trials of the Fl 265 were more than satisfactory, and plans were made for series production; but by this time work was well advanced on a later model, the Fl 282, which could carry a men and was more versatile. The RLM therefore agreed to wait for the Fl 282, to hasten whose development it ordered thirty prototypes and fifteen pre-production aircraft in spring 1940. Maiden flight was made in 1941. The first three prototypes were completed as single-seaters and had fully enclosed cabins made up of a series of optically flat Plexiglas panels, faired-in rotor pylons and well-contoured fuselages. The Fl 282V3 was fitted with endplate auxiliary fins and a long underfin beneath the rear fuselage. Later machines had more utilitarian bodies and some had semi-enclosed cockpits; others, like the example illustrated, had a completely open pilot's seat.

I know nothing about helicopter other than they are fun to fly in......

[WilDun]

Are you likely to have a CV joint or something at the end of each crank in order to "splay" (for want of a better word) the axes of each prop shaft, in order to prevent the prop tips touching? as in the helicopter?

I have seen videos of that helicopter being pubicly displayed and flown in Berlin (I think) by Hanna Reitsch
.
Pity that war ever happened - it probably wiped out a lot of good brains on all sides!
All very interesting.

BTW, Have you seen the fast gyro/trike by the Dutch company (fast both on the road and in the air)? - extremely impressive! - again HUSA will no doubt do the honours!
http://pal-v.com/ (Video under Press/Media.)

[mr bucketracer]

apart from Flettner have any of you talk ups cast parts for a engine yet

[husaberg]

I could never remember what these were called bloody handy little things
profile or contor gauge for those who struggle to think inside out
http://www.micromark.com/RS/SR/Product/84438_R.jpghttp://www.rc-tech.net/cars2/cont.jpg


http://www.carbatec.co.nz/images/hires/PCG-908.jpg
Contour Gauge - 125mm NZ$19.21
http://www.carbatec.co.nz/profile-master_c5100?zenid=e30ujeqa4cje973djfm2vn06p1

[WilDun]

apart from Flettner have any of you talk ups cast parts for a engine yet

No, not yet but I've got my furnace fired and I'm making up all the tools required for the foundry, then it'll be patternmaking (using our resident maestro's advice).
I won't be casting many parts for bike engines for a while (no orders you see) but I'll be casting something for starters to get a feel for it all.

(I mean when you have a new bike and go on a new track you don't go out and set a track record on the first lap - or tenth lap, or even do well, do you?).

Looks like we have been steered back on to bucket/foundries again without noticing - thanks!

So I guess till then, I'll just have to remain a 'talk up" - but I'm quite happy with my slow progress, ok?

[mr bucketracer]

No, not yet but I've got my furnace fired and I'm making up all the tools required for the foundry, then it'll be patternmaking (using our resident maestro's advice).
I won't be casting many parts for bike engines for a while (no orders you see) but I'll be casting something for starters to get a feel for it all.

(I mean when you have a new bike and go on a new track you don't go out and set a track record on the first lap - or tenth lap, or even do well, do you?).

Looks like we have been steered back on to bucket/foundries again without noticing - thanks!

So I guess till then, I'll just have to remain a 'talk up" - but I'm quite happy with my slow progress, ok?lap record first lap yer ?? lol , i'm going to get my furnace going in the next 6 months , i want to build a 100 twin 2 stroke so will see how i go . mean while i have to finsh 3 projects of by then 2 new bucket racers and a f3 bike

[WilDun]

i want to build a 100 twin 2 stroke so will see how i go . mean while i have to finsh 3 projects of by then 2 new bucket racers and a f3 bike

You must be going for the record then? - better start tonight, guess you won't be going out much for a while! :no:

Any of you guys been watching the IOM.TT.?

[mr bucketracer]

You must be going for the record then? - better start tonight, guess you won't be going out much for a while! :no:

Any of you guys been watching the IOM.TT.?i never go out even in my teens:( , just a home boy lol:eek5: . when i start somthing it happens fast and become a obsession )-; i need a hoilday . yes your son is winning all the race's there (-; ... in a race im stuffed in the second lap so i need a fast first and second lap he he:brick:

[husaberg]

You must be going for the record then? - better start tonight, guess you won't be going out much for a while! :no:

Any of you guys been watching the IOM.TT.?

What layout Scott tandem or Vee
There is a great deal of parts available for 50cc size bits at great prices..

[mr bucketracer]

What layout Scott tandem or Vee
There is a great deal of parts available for 50cc size bits at great prices..i think a v but going to make it so you can bolt it together in more than 1 way

[husaberg]

i think a v but going to make it so you can bolt it together in more than 1 way

did you see the sandwich case I posted ages ago...........
disk valve then too

[mr bucketracer]

did you see the sandwich case I posted ages ago...........
disk valve then tooi cant remember

[husaberg]

i cant remember

http://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/17/94/08/58/dscn1223.jpg

The design of the KR250 differs from the Rotax in that it seems to have a superior outrigger design.
You have a CNC, but if you were to make it out of thinish plate you could holesaw the rough details and fine finish with the mill.
made like a sandwich.

these are the Aprila drawings
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=291816&d=1388531776
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=291817&d=1388531776

Kawasaki

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=292339&d=1384668836

Armstrong
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=294372&d=1393712709

[mr bucketracer]

i like the pic , i want to cast somthing like that but easyer just to machine it out )-;

[Flettner]

Are you likely to have a CV joint or something at the end of each crank in order to "splay" (for want of a better word) the axes of each prop shaft, in order to prevent the prop tips touching? as in the helicopter?

I have seen videos of that helicopter being pubicly displayed and flown in Berlin (I think) by Hanna Reitsch
.
Pity that war ever happened - it probably wiped out a lot of good brains on all sides!
All very interesting.

BTW, Have you seen the fast gyro/trike by the Dutch company (fast both on the road and in the air)? - extremely impressive! - again HUSA will no doubt do the honours!
http://pal-v.com/ (Video under Press/Media.)

The engine needs to have the cranks joined, a gear train up the side of the engine. If I use four gears, the two middle gears will counter rotate and if I splay these gears at 12 degrees each ( away from centre ) the props will not hit each other. I have built gears for this already, somewhere down in the storage cow shed! I'll have to go and dig them up ( or out as the case may be )

Dutch gyro, I tend to think either a gyro OR a car not two in one, too many compromises. In my opinion.

Speaking of roadable gyro's I've been building a trailer for mine these last few days, will double as a bike trailer as well.

[Flettner]

Finally found time to cut the rotary valve inlet on the 360 engine.

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_4940_zpsca5d0bc6.jpg

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_4941_zps317307c5.jpg

[WilDun]

[QUOTE=Flettner;1130730239]Finally found time to cut the rotary valve inlet on the 360 engine.
[QUOTE]

Ok, so Husa was too busy on other stuff and didn't come to the party! so I guess I need to learn how to do photos etc by myself! :(

Seems the 360 is going ok - I see the coolant still on the machined casting!

The cranks on the opposed piston engine are obviously going to be counter rotating then?
Maybe I'm a little dim but as I see it, you will have a train of 4 shallow angle bevel gears interacting (two in line with the cranks and the "idlers" tilted at 12deg to the crankshaft axis, each being driven by the adjacent crank and also driving each other (contra rotating). these will then act both as idlers to keep the cranks synchronized and also as prop driving gears, which obviously will keep the prop blades synchronized - have I got that right?
I Guess they can't really be called idlers anymore!

Is it difficult to cut these shallow angle bevel gears or did you have them cut elswhere?

Guess FLETTNER (The other Flettner :)) used a similar principle.

Sorry for being so bloody nosey, but I find it all very interesting!

Will.

[husaberg]

Ok, so Husa was too busy on other stuff and didn't come to the party! so I guess I need to learn how to do photos etc by myself! :(

Seems the 360 is going ok - I see the coolant still on the machined casting!

The cranks on the opposed piston engine are obviously going to be counter rotating then?
Maybe I'm a little dim but as I see it, you will have a train of 4 shallow angle bevel gears interacting (two in line with the cranks and the "idlers" tilted at 12deg to the crankshaft axis, each being driven by the adjacent crank and also driving each other (contra rotating).these will then act both as idlers to keep the cranks synchronized and also as prop driving gears, - have I got that right? - Guess they can't really be called idlers anymore!

Is it difficult to cut these shallow angle bevel gears or did you have them cut elswhere?

Guess FLETTNER (The other Flettner :)) used a similar principle.

Will.
Flettner set up
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=297695&d=1402094823

Like this
As for posting pics follow this by clicking the arrow after Husaberg its a set of pictures that show how to post pictures.....




pal gyrocar

[Flettner]

[QUOTE=Flettner;1130730239]Finally found time to cut the rotary valve inlet on the 360 engine.
[QUOTE]

Ok, so Husa was too busy on other stuff and didn't come to the party! so I guess I need to learn how to do photos etc by myself! :(

Seems the 360 is going ok - I see the coolant still on the machined casting!

The cranks on the opposed piston engine are obviously going to be counter rotating then?
Maybe I'm a little dim but as I see it, you will have a train of 4 shallow angle bevel gears interacting (two in line with the cranks and the "idlers" tilted at 12deg to the crankshaft axis, each being driven by the adjacent crank and also driving each other (contra rotating). these will then act both as idlers to keep the cranks synchronized and also as prop driving gears, which obviously will keep the prop blades synchronized - have I got that right?
I Guess they can't really be called idlers anymore!

Is it difficult to cut these shallow angle bevel gears or did you have them cut elswhere?

Guess FLETTNER (The other Flettner :)) used a similar principle.

Sorry for being so bloody nosey, but I find it all very interesting!

Will.

Yes you have it, I built my own gears, the "idlers" are double angle, two thirds of the gear face is six degrees and the back third is 12 degrees. I'll see if I can find one to show you.
I think Flettner used worm drives by the look of the pictures?

[Yow Ling]

Hi Will, you don't need to put your pictures on photo bucket. you can upload them from your pc directly to KB.
If you look below the box where you type your insightful comments you see a button called "manage attachments"
Click it then click "add files" then select files, save in line, done ! If it turns to poo , I have told you something wrong.

[WilDun]

Hi Will, you don't need to put your pictures on photo bucket. you can upload them from your pc directly to KB.
If you look below the box where you type your insightful comments you see a button called "manage attachments"
Click it then click "add files" then select files, save in line, done ! If it turns to poo , I have told you something wrong.

OK, will give it a go and see what I can do. Tried this before though.
Normally in a couple of other forums I had no difficulties but this one is a little different, however it's just a matter of finding the way to do it and it'll be dead easy!

[WilDun]

hi will, you don't need to put your pictures on photo bucket. You can upload them from your pc directly to kb.
If you look below the box where you type your insightful comments you see a button called "manage attachments"
click it then click "add files" then select files, save in line, done ! If it turns to poo , i have told you something wrong.

These are probably quite interesting but just using them for training purposes.:-
297811


Well,I got there, but will I remember the next time?????? - If I apply that much thought to my foundry, then it'll be a damn good one!

[WilDun]

Hi Will, you don't need to put your pictures on photo bucket. you can upload them from your pc directly to KB.
If you look below the box where you type your insightful comments you see a button called "manage attachments"
Click it then click "add files" then select files, save in line, done ! If it turns to poo , I have told you something wrong.

Here's the 'core' of my furnace, I intend to build a main shell of ordinary concrete and slip this part inside it so that when it eventually burns out I can make a new replacement core, rather than build a completely new one. (it's also a lot cheaper for me to build a 'thinner inner castable refractory hot face" and wrap it with ceramic fibre') got heaps of that. I alsol decided to use a seperate loose fitting bottom for the furnace (to reduce the chance of differential expansion and cracking) which should be possible to use again if the furnace ever needs a new replacement liner.
Unfortunately I couldn't wait till it was all finished and fired it up in the condition it's in at the moment with a makeshift lid and sitting on a couple of bricks - and it worked fine! - Plastic tape and chicken wire not a long term solution but that fibre is a great insulator (tape's still there)!

297813

[Yow Ling]

Furnace looks great , what is the fuel for the burner?

[WilDun]

Furnace looks great , what is the fuel for the burner?

Just using propane and my own burner based loosely on nine or ten other designs I found floating around the net. - nothing complicated there - all mostly trial and error.
Thanks you guys for helping with the photos - as I said it would be simple once I knew how! - damn new fangled things these computers! :oi-grr:

[Flettner]

WilDun,

This is ( was ) my furnace, 60L drum with spikes welded to hold the ceramic fiber / wool in place around the inside. Light, portable, cheap and worked well, we just lifted the furnace off the crucible when ready to pour, you can see the handles welded on.

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/H6107.jpg

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/H6117.jpg

[WilDun]

WilDun,
This is ( was ) my furnace, 60L drum with spikes welded to hold the ceramic fiber / wool in place around the inside. Light, portable, cheap and worked well, we just lifted the furnace off the crucible when ready to pour, you can see the handles welded on.


Good idea to be able to lift the furnace off the crucible - might even adapt this to use that system!- trouble for me is that in my environment, (and often by myself) I dnn't have a decent "skyhook" available for lifting it high enough. - how did you lift it anyway? guess two of you could lift it fairly easily by hand, can't see one person managing to lift it with his face in something red hot like that? - What was the crucible sitting on?
The fibre is great stuff and I did think of using it by itself too, did you use two layers?. Where I'm situated of course, I don't think I would be too popular if it started to escape into the atmosphere!
Guess I'll maybe have to resort to my earlier idea of making it portable by mounting it all on a trailer and taking it way out there somewhere. - could also use it as a sausage sizzle for passing motorists! ;)

[Flettner]

It's so light I could lift it off by myself without having to have my face over the crucible.

Crucible just sat on a loose brick base, the whole system was total portable.

More like a sausage carbonizer.

[WilDun]

It's so light I could lift it off by myself without having to have my face over the crucible.

Crucible just sat on a loose brick base, the whole system was total portable.

More like a sausage carbonizer.

That's all food for thought, ( not the sausages).
It sure would be handy to have a crucible which would be just sitting there completely exposed, just need to clear off the dross and it's ready to be picked up by the pouring handle, just one operation (except to lift the furnace body) but no other tongs required.
Think I'll keep my hotface liner though, seeing it's already there, it's working very well and I've gone to all the trouble of making it.

[WilDun]

Flettner, (or anyone else who might be able to help).,
What size drum is that you are using for your furnace?
I have been looking everywhere for a 20gall drum for an outer shell for my furnace - I can't find one, and someone told me that they don't make them anymore, so I may just have to make my own shell out of sheet steel (or even thin concrete) unless someone can come up with a better alternative or point me in the right direction - the weight needs to be kept as low as possible though, as I'm still keen on the idea of lifting the furnace off the crucible.
I see there are a lot of good cheap 44 gall ones around but they are much too big for me however.

Was passing through Hamilton last week and nipped into the Fibreglass shop off Lake Rd. and bought some Vinamold, very dear to ship so I thought I'd kill two birds with one stone and at least save on courier costs - must be obtainable in Auckland somewhere, I just haven't found it yet.
I'm checking it out to see how it goes at the moment!
The guy at the shop says that they will be selling another (better ) product towards the end of the year, produced in America by "Smooth On" - not that I'll really need that of course!

[Pumba]

...........60L drum with spikes.........


Flettner, (or anyone else who might be able to help).,
What size drum is that you are using for your furnace?
I have been looking everywhere for a 20gall drum for an outer shell for my furnace - I can't find one, and someone told me that they don't make them anymore........!

:brick::brick::brick::nya:

I don't think you will find a 20gal drum now days 60L will be the closest. I was looking for 60L a while ago and yo are right they are not easy to come across particularly in comparison to the 44gal size. Common origins of the 60l drum are oils and other petroleum products. I managed to get a rusty one from a mate, and I know where there are two others but the owner is a horder and wont part with them.

[Flettner]

I haven't looked lately, I'm sure they are available still. Mine got backed over by someone in a Titan truck, much like the one you see in the background of the casting pictures I post, bugger it!
I'll have a ring around tomorrow, yes it's a 60L drum.

[koba]

...I know where there are two others but the owner is a horder and wont part with them.
You know you are a hoarder when you won't part with a drum.

[Pumba]

You know you are a hoarder when you won't part with a drum.

Real problem is said person is my father:facepalm:

[WilDun]

Thanks for the replies guys.
Didn't think any actually existed, you'd think the manufacturers would think of people like us! :mad:

Flettner if you could find one I would be happy - I'll keep my fingers crossed, but I won't hold my breath as it's been so long since I've seen any of those and I think the scrap merchants probably got most of them.

Plumba, yes the actual capacity doesn't matter it's just that they're around the size I need and I really don't want to have to get involved with trying to roll my own with a hammer, a piece of wood and a welder! (finished product would be a bad look). BTW maybe your father would be able to strike a deal with a fellow geriatric :lol: - what's he keeping them for? bet it's because 20 years ago he thought they might come in handy and now he's keeping them because the workshop wouldn't look right if they weren't there!

[husaberg]

Thanks for the replies guys.
Didn't think any actually existed, you'd think the manufacturers would think of people like us! :mad:

Flettner if you could find one I would be happy - I'll keep my fingers crossed, but I won't hold my breath as it's been so long since I've seen any of those and I think the scrap merchants probably got most of them.

Plumba, yes the actual capacity doesn't matter it's just that they're around the size I need and I really don't want to have to get involved with trying to roll my own with a hammer, a piece of wood and a welder! (finished product would be a bad look). BTW maybe your father would be able to strike a deal with a fellow geriatric :lol: - what's he keeping it for? bet it's because 20 years ago he thought it might come in handy and now he's keeping it because the workshop wouldn't look right without it!

we still see 60 and 100 liter drums they are not as thick as the old ones though...I am a bit far away though...........
but any way pressure tanks on farms and lpg cylinders etc etc

[Yow Ling]

Flettner

297902

crank for 40 cc twin

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXECFS&P=6

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEBGL&P=V

297903

Prerotator motor, not really homemade, but interesting

[Yow Ling]

Thanks for the replies guys.
Didn't think any actually existed, you'd think the manufacturers would think of people like us! :mad:

Flettner if you could find one I would be happy - I'll keep my fingers crossed, but I won't hold my breath as it's been so long since I've seen any of those and I think the scrap merchants probably got most of them.

Plumba, yes the actual capacity doesn't matter it's just that they're around the size I need and I really don't want to have to get involved with trying to roll my own with a hammer, a piece of wood and a welder! (finished product would be a bad look). BTW maybe your father would be able to strike a deal with a fellow geriatric :lol: - what's he keeping them for? bet it's because 20 years ago he thought they might come in handy and now he's keeping them because the workshop wouldn't look right if they weren't there!

what about the skin from a hot water cylinder ? its just sheet metal can cut with scissors (almost) rivet it up

[WilDun]

we still see 60 and 100 liter drums they are not as thick as the old ones though...I am a bit far away though...........

Skin thickness wouldn't really matter as it'll only be something to contain all the ceramic wool and make it look better, I won't be welding on spikes because I've already made an half inch thick inner "hot liner" and the wool will only be to insulate it from the outside.

Yes it would be a very expensive drum by the time it got up here! ( guess you live down the West Coast?).

[WilDun]

what about the skin from a hot water cylinder ? its just sheet metal can cut with scissors (almost) rivet it up

Yes, I have heard of people using those, - though they are normally made of copper aren't they? and probably highly sought after by the copper thieves! - then you are probably talking about the outer casing, trouble is it would be hard to find one which didn't have it's guts ripped out to get at the copper! but you're right, will check that out, if Flettner doesn't find one.

[WilDun]

Flettner

297902

crank for 40 cc twin

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXECFS&P=6

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEBGL&P=V

297903

Prerotator motor, not really homemade, but interesting

Yes, there are heaps of these little Chinese etc. motors available now and the parts for them are unbelievably cheap - they are extremely lightweight and quite good little motors - but ........I bet Flettner doesn't want to purchase that sort of stuff, whether it comes from India, China or wherever, ( I agree with that philosophy, but I do have a little single 30cc). Can we really fight it?

[speedpro]

I have seen a stack of the perforated rubbish bins from town at the recycling station. They are about the right size and who cares about a few holes. Either that of cut a piece of sheet and roll it, even I could get it done in 15 minutes. Probably weld the seam just to keep it smooth so you can lift it off without snagging anything.

[WilDun]

I have seen a stack of the perforated rubbish bins from town at the recycling station. They are about the right size and who cares about a few holes. Either that of cut a piece of sheet and roll it, even I could get it done in 15 minutes. Probably weld the seam just to keep it smooth so you can lift it off without snagging anything.

Yes a lot of ways to do these things and I might try something like that if I can find one, but you haven't seen my sheetmetal skills and it mght take a tad longer than that! plus I don't have enough S/M but I'll get there........ eventually.
Then again, I did manage to make the collapsible sheetmetal moulds for the refractory part - just lazy I guess.

[WilDun]

298092

There you go, a nice fresh roll nearly ready to go in (on) the oven! - folded the edges over to "clasp" each other and added rivets for security. Probably not normal sheetmetal practice but it works.
I think it took a little longer than 15 mins Mike but at least it's on the way.

Got lots of family arriving, staying a week, - more delays. :(

[F5 Dave]

Played right more free labour

[WilDun]

Played right more free labour

Doubt if they'll even notice what I'm trying to do (unless it explodes and starts a fire!) - then I'll get a lot of attention! :lol:

[Flettner]

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_4958_zps65995876.jpg

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_4953_zps96b216e9.jpg

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_4957_zps84caee46.jpg

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_4955_zps2d94c0cf.jpg





I've been working from home too long, you are right, these drums 60L are not as plentiful as they once were. I've found a drum to use but it's not a 60L one, I'm not sure what this drum was used for? It has much thicker walls.
I'm getting to grips with this green monster in the corner of my workshop and starting to learn how to use this gear hobb, spur gears only at this stage. Still trying to fathom the calc's for spiral tooth.
I now have cutters for 1 to 3 module in .25 steps, just right for building gearboxes. Seen here is 2.25 Module.

[TZ350]

That is very clever stuff. ....

[WilDun]

I've been working from home too long, you are right, these drums 60L are not as plentiful as they once were. I've found a drum to use but it's not a 60L one
starting to learn how to use this gear hobb, spur gears only at this stage. Still trying to fathom the calc's for spiral tooth.
I now have cutters for 1 to 3 module in .25 steps, just right for building gearboxes. Seen here is 2.25 Module.

Thanks for looking for a drum, I am still going to persevere with my sheetmetal monstrosity, but if you did actually obtain the drum and it will not be of use to you, I would still be interested.
Yesterday I obtained a small crucible (about the size of a large teacup) which I intend to use for the small melts I will be starting off with so I need to build a smaller furnace for it (should be much more economical to use) and apply the knowledge I have gained in trying to make this bigger one!

BTW I worked in a gearcutting shop for a few years coming up to my retirement five years ago, (not actual gearcutting more turning).
The guy who owns the shop is an avid experimenter like yourself
Think he might be a subscriber on this forum too.

[WilDun]

Starting to learn how to use this gear hobb, spur gears only at this stage. Still trying to fathom the calc's for spiral tooth.
I now have cutters for 1 to 3 module in .25 steps, just right for building gearboxes. Seen here is 2.25 Module.

It would seem that the engine will be turning backwards and I guess that the major thrust side of the piston will still be on the back wall and transfer port.
Is it possible that if the major thrust side of the piston was on the exhaust port side, would there be any benefit? or would that be likely to cause wear problems?
I do seem to remember MZ trying this on their earlier racers, ie with the cylinder reversed and forward rotating crank, (not with an idler as you appear to be using).

[Flettner]

The engine will be turning backwards, the exhaust points rear, thrust is at the transfer side. Part of the reason is to keep the exhaust away from harm and part to see how the bike "feels" with handleing. This is the engine that will be EFI into the cylinder, throttle done by the slide over the RV, controlled by the ECU. I have a few other ideas on porting I would like to try on this setup also. Vairable ( on the fly ) crankcase volume will also get a tryout. Ethanol will be the fuel.
Lots of ideas to try, just need to finish it! I'm adjusting the water core mold at the moment to be able to fit a power valve blade ( adding metal to the casting through the water core ).

[WilDun]

The engine will be turning backwards, the exhaust points rear, thrust is at the transfer side. Part of the reason is to keep the exhaust away from harm and part to see how the bike "feels" with handleing. This is the engine that will be EFI into the cylinder, throttle done by the slide over the RV, controlled by the ECU. I have a few other ideas on porting I would like to try on this setup also. Vairable ( on the fly ) crankcase volume will also get a tryout. Ethanol will be the fuel.
Lots of ideas to try, just need to finish it! I'm adjusting the water core mold at the moment to be able to fit a power valve blade ( adding metal to the casting through the water core ).

Interesting stuff - looking forward to seeing how it all pans out, seems to make a lot of sense.
The two stroke isn't dead yet, as you can see in the British championship with the little 125 machines still up there, battling with the 250 four strokes!
I may try out some old ideas I thought up in the past but have to control myself and get the foundry in action first, one step at a time otherwise I'll get nowhere!
Still interested in the four stroke as well though.

[husaberg]

Hello Neil
I just noticed that most of the F1 rules for events in NZ do not seem to specify that the engines for up to 760cc twins or 3's need to be production based.
What is the stoke of the 1050 triple going to be.
The two stroke 4 are pegged at 500.

[Flettner]

Bore and stroke are 80mm x 70mm, yes it could easily be made into a 750cc, same stroke smaller pistons.
Husaberg, I'm building up a set of cases at the moment, horizontal split, to suit the sleeve cylinder ( and perhaps an FOS type cylinder as well to try). It's case reed.
I'm not using the CNC at all, old style just building it up from wood shaped pieces. You might be interested? I'll post some pictures as I go, just felt I needed to keep things moving on that front.

[Flettner]

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_4959_zps32845be7.jpg

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_4960_zpsa3c22856.jpg

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_4961_zps4bb82079.jpg

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_4971_zpse9ae0928.jpg

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_4972_zpsfafdf03e.jpg

Horrizontal split case reed.

[husaberg]

now that is clever I always get confued on the cad with zoom in and out, I get lost, plus I draw shit, (son looked at my V3 tonight and asked if it was an elevation drawing of our house)
With this approach in scale and in real 3d . you are a genius Neil......you may object but seeing the simple way is genius.

I seen something with casting bronze statue something the other day they dipped a wax male in a ceramic coating (much like a glaze used in pottery I guess) it was (I assume) to get a better surface finish with the lost wax casting and maybe allowed a tighter ramming do you know how this works and what they use for this witchcraft?

[Flettner]

Isn't the pattern made of wax, often hand carved, then dipped in a ceramic slurry many times ( time to dry after each dipping ) then wax melted out, bronze then tipped in. I think the reason is for fine bronze work. Ok of you can carve one case out of wax, if you cock it up you start from scratch!
Wood is soo good to work with, if you cock it up just glue a new bit in. And bondifil can cover much roughness!

[husaberg]

Isn't the pattern made of wax, often hand carved, then dipped in a ceramic slurry many times ( time to dry after each dipping ) then wax melted out, bronze then tipped in. I think the reason is for fine bronze work. Ok of you can carve one case out of wax, if you cock it up you start from scratch!
Wood is soo good to work with, if you cock it up just glue a new bit in. And bondifil can cover much roughness!

I was just wondering how it works, I was assuming the wax was melted out with the molten metal but your explanation makes sense. I must have missed the melt it out bit........:lol:
Yes making a crankcase out of wax does not sound like fun. imagine if it got too hot.........

[Flettner]

I save all the old wood things being thrown out like old bed frames etc, all good dry wood. This pattern is largely made up from my mothers old ironing board, I knew it would be useful for something one day. Five minute epoxy, a lathe and sand paper are most useful.

[WilDun]

Yes making a crankcase out of wax does not sound like fun. imagine if it got too hot.........

Pretty hard stuff that wax they use, doesn't melt that easily but it is quite brittle!
I think it is better to make a wooden or plaster mould to cast the wax pattern instead of trying to machine it, a lot of extra work just to make a one or two off!
Yes, the wax is melted out and re used. (plenty of stuff on the net and You Tube I would think - maybe just punch in 'lost wax investment casting').

The wax (investment casting) is very good for obtaining a dimensionally accurate and good looking finish though - I have seen a lot of stainless steel castings which I have had to machine in the past, done using this process - great looking castings, minimal machining required.

In the case of things like these crankcase patterns, the old tried and true sand moulds work fine though.

[WilDun]

Neill,
I have got to admit that I am having trouble understanding the porting layout on that cylinder casting though, especially the exhaust. - is that the sleeve valve job?
If I keep plugging away, no doubt I will figure it out, but maybe it would just be easier if you could explain! :scratch:

[Flettner]

Yes, thats the sleeve cylinder, thought I need to run it, see what happens.
The same crank case will accept a copy of Frits's FOS cylinder, I will have a go at that too.
AND it all fits into my spare YZ250F frame. Good, if it ever works.
I have some other cylinder types in mind that also will need the same crank case. YZ 250 twostroke clutch and gearbox.

[Flettner]

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_4508_zps1082cedc.jpg

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_4521_zpsf0dc6d04.jpg

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_4524_zps7104c784.jpg

[WilDun]

[QUOTE=Flettner;1130743335]Yes, thats the sleeve cylinder, Good, if it ever works.
I have some other cylinder types in mind /QUOTE]

Well, the engine which (I think, but I may be wrong) inspired that one, worked well by all accounts, but I'm sure there were times when there were some doubts!

[WilDun]

HUSA,

Found this one which gives a very clear description of the lost wax process.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1rgfT-PlXqU

[WilDun]

Flettner,

What is that sleeve made of? is it plated?
Guess it's stroke wouldn't need to be much more than the height of the ex. ports?

[husaberg]

HUSA,

Found this one which gives a very clear description of the lost wax process.



Thanks.............

[Flettner]

Made from 4140, it will be nitrided before opperation. This was very nessasary in the Crecy design also surface finish is important. Piston stroke is 54mm, sleeve stroke is 24mm. There are two small
( 7075 aluminium ) connecting rods either side of the crankshaft running on eccentics to accommodate the sleeve movement.

[WilDun]

Made from 4140, it will be nitrided before opperation. There are two small
( 7075 aluminium ) connecting rods either side of the crankshaft running on eccentics to accommodate the sleeve movement.
Yes, the Crecy was the design i was talking about - guess all the promising designs like this stopped dead when the jet engines took over!
I don't see any oscillation mechanism for the sleeve on your design, so I guess you are going to try a reciprocating only arrangement first?

(Looking at the picture again, I wasn't sure whether there was only one lug or two on the bottom of the sleeve :confused: and thought that if it was only one, it could be an oscillating arrangement, but seeing that there are two rods ...............

[Flettner]

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_1283_zps4d6627df.jpg

Two lugs, two small rods run off an two eccentrics on each side of the crank.
I'm not sure how important the sleeve oscillating is? In the fourstroke engines it was nessesary for port timing, in the Crecy the sleeve oscillation was a funtion of how the drive worked. It was only a small sideways movement, I don't think it's that important although I guess I'll find out. Eventully I would like to run the sleeve drive off a separate shaft so it's timing can be changed on the fly.

[WilDun]

It was only a small sideways movement, I don't think it's that important although I guess I'll find out. Eventully I would like to run the sleeve drive off a separate shaft so it's timing can be changed on the fly.

I also couldn't figure out why the Crecy liner needed to rotate, but I'm sure I read somewhere that the rotation was important to ensure even distribution of oil right around the close fitting liner.
Whether or not I was reading about the Crecy design, the Bristol, or Napier four strokes, I can't really remember, but I'm sure it would be significant (at least in those aero engines where periods in between regular maintenance would have been very important).

Seems to be a good idea to be able to change the timing (infinately variable controlled by electronics?).

[Flettner]

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_4973_zpsce2b8550.jpg

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_4974_zps6d5b69a3.jpg

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_4975_zps118f304b.jpg

A Sunday afternoon of progress, bearing housings in place and the reed block core in place.

[WilDun]

A Sunday afternoon of progress, bearing housings in place and the reed block core in place.

So, as I see it, that is the top half of the pattern (less sprues, risers etc.) which will produce a void complete with coreprints ready to receive the actual sand cores, locating them in the correct position? -
To me, it doesn't look as though it will end up being just a simple two piece pattern!
Then possibly I still haven't got my head around it! :scratch:

[Flettner]

Simple two piece pattern, did I say that? Well It might have started out that way but there will have to be two or three cores it seems. I used this reed core as I already had it made for the 700cc gyro engine. Suits a nice fat V force reed block. This will run a carburetor for a start but I will add lugs to the pattern so I can fit injectors ( three ) later if needed.

[WilDun]

Simple two piece pattern, did I say that?

No you didn't say that but I assumed it would be! - I can see that it isn't and also that I have a lot to learn in the patternmaking department!

Back into it again after a couple of weeks off and finishing off my furnace now (just having a lunch break)
I'm now making the lid and will let it all sit for a couple of days before firing.
Decided I would continue making it to the original idea I had, then I will think about making a smaller, more lightweight one, similar to the one you have (or had before it was run over!)

The pattern making is obviously a different discipline which I will have to deal with next, but no doubt I'll enjoy that.
All very slow but still progressing, - hope you can bear with me and my questions while I try to get it all sorted out! :rolleyes:

[Flettner]

My progress is slow also, too many projects at once! And too cold at night ( must be getting old ). But come the week end, when time allows, I find working with wood and making patterns enjoyable.

Got an off cut of 120 dia 4140 bar today ( one meter long ), should be good for a few crankshafts. I have a few to make.

Do you know anything about pull broaches for making internal splines? I've priced up a tool ( broach ) but have never seen a pull broach machine at work. I imagine it's just a hydraulic cylinder pulling the broach through a pre sized blank, nice and concentric. What loads are involved I wonder?

Usually I make my internal splines in the shaper with rotary table fitted. Works well but real slow, not good for making many gearboxes.

[WilDun]

Do you know anything about pull broaches for making internal splines? I've priced up a tool ( broach ) but have never seen a pull broach machine at work. I imagine it's just a hydraulic cylinder pulling the broach through a pre sized blank, nice and concentric.


Sorry I have never used a 'pull' broaching machine, but I've used quite large "push" broaches in a hydraulic press (for keyways and hexagonal holes in 316 stainless) and have also seen quite a few break (not by my hand though!).
I believe that 'pull' broaches use hydraulics and also are much safer to use. Couldn't put a figure on force required but we managed with a 30 ton press.
Broaching to me in general is a scary thing, particularly if it's not lined up properly and well lubricated! - The pull broach would probably be a lot safer here.
I would say that 4140 in it's annealed state would be easier than 316 stainless,(less likely to gall up) but even though I've done quite a lot of broaching I never did quite reach 'expert' status.

I'm sure I have a book on broaching here somewhere - won't be too far away and maybe you can find it useful, so I'll have a look for it tonight - don't think I'll be needing it anymore!

PS: there is a case here for having a gear shaper for bigger internal splines (depending of course what size you would be doing) - doing them with a conventional shaper or slotter on a mill is a soul destroying job in my opinion! - But there are times when there is no other way I guess.

[WilDun]

Flettner,
Found the book on broaching, quite detailed really, I don't think I'll need it now! - you can have it (for free), ie. if you're interested and think it might be of use to you.

[Flettner]

Thank you. I could swap you for a 60L drum if you like, I have access to a couple.
I've been thinking about your broaching 316 S/S, not fun. We do a little, mostly in 304, nice and soft. I've imagined a pull broach machine, just use a 2meter length of hydraulic cylinder tube with the cylinder head half way up. In other words use the cylinder tube as the body of the entire machine, simple, straight forward and easy to build. Would need two ( or maybe one ) access slots to get at the pull broach.
Machined two crank halves this afternoon, these are for the sleeve engine, there is extra material on the side of the crank wheels for the eccentric drives. These will be manufactured on the CNC when I'm machining the crank pin hole and the counter weight holes. This engine WILL need a counter ballance shaft as there is a lot of material offset on the crank pin side of the wheels.

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_4977_zps540fa5af.jpg

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_4979_zpsb8a36501.jpg

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_4980_zps05345bde.jpg

This is the beginning of one half of the 360 engine crank shaft, 4140. Although I would rather get on with the case patterns tomorrow if there is time.

[F5 Dave]

Hey! How many of those 'the biz' CR flywheels are you going to burn through?

[WilDun]

Thank you. I could swap you for a 60L drum if you like.

I've imagined a pull broach machine, just use a 2 meter length of hydraulic cylinder tube with the cylinder head half way up. In other words use the cylinder tube as the body of the entire machine, simple, straight forward and easy to build. Would need two ( or maybe one ) access slots to get at the pull broach.




That's not a bad idea, those drums are more or less right for a furnace!
I will be going to Raglan soon maybe within the next week and I could possibly pick it up, (if that's ok).

Making your own sounds feasible, wouldn't really be too difficult to do, - hardest thing would be buying broaches (probably cost an arm and a leg) for every spline you'd be wanting to make!

[Flettner]

My number, 07 8241978 Neil

todays effort

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_4981_zps10742798.jpg

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_4982_zps6027aa02.jpg

[Flettner]

Hey! How many of those 'the biz' CR flywheels are you going to burn through?

Same unit round and around. I had three but have sold two now. I do have a number of Wobbly's larger units ( 100mm ), off an Indian scooter I think.

[F5 Dave]

yeah they're nice huh? ;)

Love to see how these engines come out.

[Flettner]

yeah they're nice huh? ;)

Love to see how these engines come out.

Me too.
Never mind, I'm having fun pissing around with them anyway.

[WilDun]

How did you cut out those MDF profiles - with a CNC mill or router?

[Flettner]

I use the CNC because it's easy but I could be making them using the bobin sander ( it has a table that can be set at three dgrees ), if the CNC wasn't available.
That MDF is actually Armor board, machines way better than MDF.

[WilDun]

I use the CNC because it's easy but I could be making them using the bobin sander ( it has a table that can be set at three dgrees ), if the CNC wasn't available.
That MDF is actually Armor board, machines way better than MDF.

So I'm guessing three degrees you mention will be the 'draught' or 'draft' required for the easy withdrawl of the pattern?

PS I'll mail the broaching book and a couple of PDF's on torsional vibration which I had lost- I only just found them on my computer the other day.
Can't figure out how to put a PDF on the forum and couldn't get them to print big enough either, but no doubt you'll have decent glasses!
This stuff may or may not be of interest to you - but I don't really need it anymore. :)

[husaberg]

So I'm guessing three degrees you mention will be the 'draught' or 'draft' required for the easy withdrawl of the pattern?

PS I'll mail the broaching book and a couple of PDF's on torsional vibration which I had lost- I only just found them on my computer the other day.
Can't figure out how to put a PDF

Attachments next to the smiley faces.if you hover your curser next to the functions they tell you what they are :) On go advanced rather than simple reply, max size 2mb I think.
Of course you can copy the plain text out of a pdf and post as text etc as well.

[WilDun]

Attachments next to the smiley faces.if you hover your curser next to the functions they tell you what they are :) On go advanced rather than simple reply, max size 2mb I think.
Of course you can copy the plain text out of a pdf and post as text etc as well.

Can't get it to accept a PDF and when I convert it to text it is much too big to put into a reply!
Also it's got FA to do with bikes really and that may not be appreciated on this forum. :no:

Oh, and don't put anything any more sexy on than that short movie you put on, - I've got my old ticker to think about! :laugh:

[Flettner]

Thankyou Will, I've just recived the broaching book you sent me, fascinating, information in there I didn't even know to ask. A comprehensive book well worth reading, seems my pull broach machine design might work after all, thank you again.
I'll have to organise to get this 60L drum up to you.

[WilDun]

Thankyou Will, I've just recived the broaching book you sent me, fascinating, information in there I didn't even know to ask. A comprehensive book well worth reading, seems my pull broach machine design might work after all, thank you again.
I'll have to organise to get this 60L drum up to you.

Happy it was of use to you, -
Yes prob still interested in the drum but no rush - got to get this other thing of mine working well first (I've been away for a few days) so will maybe get it fired up tomorrow or Wed.
Let me know how much for the drum, courier etc. ie when you've got hold of it and I'll send the cash on.
(I don't expect anything for the book by the way, just glad someone was interested enough to use it!).

[Flettner]

Sleeve valve crank ready for nitriding, a little bit of Davies pump tech! 360 crank is also finished.

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_4983_zpsc79666be.jpg

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_4985_zps718b42b5.jpg

[mr bucketracer]

that looks prity dam cool

[valvesr4wimps]

How is the balance on that whole rotating assembly?
What is vibration going to be like on that motor?

(BTW Uniflow -- this is citabjockey)

[Flettner]

How is the balance on that whole rotating assembly?
What is vibration going to be like on that motor?

(BTW Uniflow -- this is citabjockey)

citabjockey, I've been hiding on this forum until I've got more to show off ( a running engine for example ). 360 rotary valve engine is moving along slowly, I've just finished the crank for it also.
Ballance, yes I certainly understand this type of crank will need careful attention to the ballance. You will see three holes for bob weights ( mallory metal ) plus the crank case will house a ballance shaft. A necessity I would think. Hows the RT going?

[valvesr4wimps]

citabjockey, I've been hiding on this forum until I've got more to show off ( a running engine for example ). 360 rotary valve engine is moving along slowly, I've just finished the crank for it also.
Ballance, yes I certainly understand this type of crank will need careful attention to the ballance. You will see three holes for bob weights ( mallory metal ) plus the crank case will house a ballance shaft. A necessity I would think. Hows the RT going?

Flettner, I think TSM is close to dead -- it is a morgue over there. Too bad. Glad to see you still making progress on these amazing pieces of work that you do! The RT is fine. I put gas in one hole, oil in the other and ride it. The way things should be. I love simple motors.

[Flettner]

Good to hear the RT is still going strong! My Kawasaki is in bits getting the carb taken out , back to EFI , for me this season!

Here is the sleeve assembly together, pins are just some old broken cutters just to hold things together for now.

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_4986_zps22742368.jpg

[WilDun]

Here is the sleeve assembly together, pins are just some old broken cutters just to hold things together for now.


All looking good so far, like the ballrace bearings on the sleeve conrods!, guess those rods are ally?
Will the sleeve be lubed from the normal two stroke mix?

Mallory Metal? what the hell is it? - guess i've been out of the scene for so long and I haven't managed to keep up!

My son and his family who have been staying have gone off to Dubai now so I'll have peace and quiet to get on with my furnace again (ie if I can get myself shifted). :(

[Flettner]

All looking good so far, like the ballrace bearings on the sleeve conrods!, guess those rods are ally?
Will the sleeve be lubed from the normal two stroke mix?

Mallory Metal? what the hell is it? - guess i've been out of the scene for so long and I haven't managed to keep up!

My son and his family who have been staying have gone off to Dubai now so I'll have peace and quiet to get on with my furnace again (ie if I can get myself shifted). :(

Rods are 7075, normal twostroke mix, Mallory metal? Not sure but it's machinable and heavy, I think tungsten that has been sinttered into bar form. Lead moves too much and may not be heavy enough.

[Sketchy_Racer]

Here is the sleeve assembly together, pins are just some old broken cutters just to hold things together for now.


Broken cutters!!! Only naughty machinists have those around ;)

Loving your work on this, really looking forward to seeing the final product!

[WilDun]

Broken cutters!!! Only naughty machinists have those around ;)


There are quite a few broken milling cutters (and naughty machinists) around!
Handiest material for a multitude of jobs I reckon - good hard material mainly for boring bars, good for centre punches, crankpins? ;)
Anyway, I always pocket any I happen to find lying around!

[Sketchy_Racer]

There are quite a few broken milling cutters (and naughty machinists) around!
Handiest material for a multitude of jobs I reckon - good hard material mainly for boring bars, good for centre punches, crankpins? ;)
Anyway, I always pocket any I happen to find lying around!

Shhhh you'll give away all the secrets. I've got draws of broken cutters around. 8 years of running a machining center saved up :D

[valvesr4wimps]

Where those sleeve rods attach to the sleeve -- that kind of looks like a possible fatigue failure point. Is the sleeve material beefed up there at all? Can't see in the photos...

[Flettner]

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_1283_zps4d6627df.jpg

Sleeve has lugs, although they are a little thinner now, 5mm wide, 8mm pins. Sleeve has only a 24mm stroke, piston 54mm

Remember that this is a twostroke so should have a positive push down on the con rods ( the sleeve has a surface area exposed to combustion pressure ), rods should never be under tension ( much ).

Yes cutters! Iscar do well out of us.

[WilDun]

Remember that this is a twostroke so should have a positive push down on the con rods ( the sleeve has a surface area exposed to combustion pressure ),rods should never be under tension ( much ).


When you say that the sleeve surface area is exposed to combustion pressure, are you anticipating that it will be pressed (or "bulged"?) against the outer bore and so may not require some sort of ring near the top?

I guess it's possible with this configuration that the usual two stroke low rev "stutter" will disappear?

[Flettner]

When you say that the sleeve surface area is exposed to combustion pressure, are you anticipating that it will be pressed (or "bulged"?) against the outer bore and so may not require some sort of ring near the top?

That is the amazing thing about Ricardos sleeve design is that it requires no top ring. Apparently the sleeve expands untill it transfers heat to the cylinder surface, self regulating. The top of the sleeve ( 2mm thick ) will get pushed down with combustion pressure, it's the top of the sleeve that uncovers the exhaust ports. Yes I know that sounds like rubbish and I'm sure seizure will probably occur, but I want to find out myself, I have a few other ideas to add.

I guess it's possible with this configuration that the usual two stroke low rev "stutter" will disappear?

Yes the uniflow style engine ( of which this is one ) has a much cleaner cylinder fill even at low speeds, it makes the engine tune much like a fourstroke. You can have them quite lean or rich and they will run clean, ie no fourstroking.

I have your drum here now, I'll see if I can send it up, thanks.

oops, part of my reply is in the quote, sorry.

[WilDun]

Yes the uniflow style engine ( of which this is one ) has a much cleaner cylinder fill even at low speeds, it makes the engine tune much like a fourstroke. You can have them quite lean or rich and they will run clean, ie no fourstroking.
The amazing thing about Ricardos sleeve design is that it requires no top ring. Apparently the sleeve expands untill it transfers heat to the cylinder surface, self regulating. The top of the sleeve ( 2mm thick ) will get pushed down with combustion pressure, it's the top of the sleeve that uncovers the exhaust ports.


That theory is amazing - guess it's more than just a theory, especially the bit about the area at the top of the sleeve (which I hadn't considered).
When I asked about the sealing, I thought that maybe it was a bit of a long shot and might make me look ridiculous, but there you go, someone already had it all sussed!

BTW, re: the drum. please send a PM.
Thanks, Will.

[Flettner]

WilDun, by the time you read this, your drum will be at ESE HQ. To be collected at your convenience.

[WilDun]

WilDun, by the time you read this, your drum will be at ESE HQ. To be collected at your convenience.

Just checking the thread before shutting down - that's great! I'll get in touch with them asap - as I understand, they are only a few kilometres away. Might not be able to do it for a couple of days though.
Many thanks.
Will.

[Yow Ling]

Interesting casting technique and media, you can do foundry work in the kitchen


http://youtu.be/L3t-jBATM0w

[WilDun]

Interesting casting technique and media, you can do foundry work in the kitchen



Sure worth a try, but I think his technique needs just a little refinement here and there. Wonder how the welder would stand up to it?

Also it seems that you can melt aluminium in an ordinary microwave (microwave being protected by surrounding the crucible with appropriate material of course). - best to buy a microwave specially for the job and use it in the workshop, don't use the one in the kitchen!!

[WilDun]

WilDun, by the time you read this, your drum will be at ESE HQ. To be collected at your convenience.

Collected the drum, it is just the one I was looking for - also had a look at Rob's dyno etc. (first time I ever saw a dyno would you believe!).
Thanks very much to both you guys, very much appreciated.

[bucketracer]

... had a look at Rob's dyno etc. (first time I ever saw a dyno would you believe!).

The dyno belongs toTeam ESE's Chambers and NedKelly, Rob (TeeZee) is probably the one who has used it the most though.

[WilDun]

The dyno belongs toTeam ESE's Chambers and NedKelly, Rob (TeeZee) is probably the one who has used it the most though.

Yes I met Chambers and Rob, still haven't met Ned Kelly.

Nice to meet people who share the same interests as myself. I would like to be more involved in the scene but i can't ride anymore and I can't really contribute much as I don't know the finer details of what makes today's machines tick, (ie,unless the foundry I'm slowly trying to set up works better than anticipated).

No doubt I'll learn by making a lot of mistakes!, but all good fun especially when i'm being helped by all you guys.

I'll probably meet a few more of you when I finally decide to go along to some race meetings.

[WilDun]

I've got most of the stuff needed to get the foundry in operation now, but progress has stalled a little, however, if I can find some time, a couple of days work should see it in action and properly fired, (weather permitting - rain showers and furnaces are not a good combination and you can't put a roof over it!).

Managed to score an old Soda Stream to provide CO2 for hardening cores (sand and sodium silicate), each refill should last a long time and it only costs $12 for an exchange cylinder at Countdown!

Learning to use the moulding flask and also preparing and mixing the moulding sand will probably need a bit of practice! ( Will be using Bentonite clay and Silica sand mix which I'm hoping should be a lot less smokey than oilsand ). This should keep me on better terms with my neighbours!

Flettner's drum will be used to make my Mk 2 furnace - that's a little way off yet of course.
I'm calling this one "The Pig's Arse" but I reckon it'll still do the job ok.

Probably post a couple of pictures soon.

I still have to re-acquaint myself with pattern making, everything is on course but progress is slow, I do think I need to rearrange my "workshop" so I can actually move about in it!

[Flettner]

I've got this stack of jobs to do for people, can hardly get in the workshop door having to step over them! It's time to clear this door obstruction, TZ I'll have your head machined next week plus the acid is on to get the RG cylinder finished so I'll post some pictures of the pattern building, not much has happened since the last pattern photos I posted.
Sleeve crank case and 360 rotary valve, injected engine will have to just wait for now.

[TZ350]

Thanks, I am looking forward to getting back to the air cooled RGV125 project.

[Brockmoor]

metal casting stuff :2thumbsup

[WilDun]

After looking at the above stuff, I am wondering if it means that the thread is petering out and has hit rock bottom? :no:

[Pumba]

After looking at the above stuff, I am wondering if it means that the thread is petering out and has hit rock bottom? :no:

Man you need to visit some other threads round here. This one has a long way to go before we get near rock bottom. It is even realitivly still on topic:eek:

[WilDun]

Man you need to visit some other threads round here. It is even realitivly still on topic:eek:

Yeah, guess you're right, sorta on topic,
Haven't looked much beyond the Bucket threads as yet - enough for me here for the moment!

[F5 Dave]

or maybe he's just an enthusiast sick of everything going to China.

[Yow Ling]

I thought he was just an enthusiastic guy in the trade, its not like we are going to buy much SG cast iron parts from uK for our buckets is it ?

I hope he stays and can add some interesting content to the thread.

[WilDun]

its not like we are going to buy much SG cast iron parts from uK for our buckets is it ?


My thoughts precisely!
However, maybe I am being a little too harsh, I do hope he keeps on contributing (as a foundry or bike enthusiast) :)

Yow Ling, I hope you don't give up on your foundry aspirations or your thread - I realise that you probably have a job and a family to attend to, I have the time to do it but I'm no ball of fire like Flettner, so it's not too likely that I'll set this thread alight!
Just finishing up my furnace now and, wouldn't you know it, it's going to rain through the weekend.

[Flettner]

Good, I hope it rains hard! If I have to be in the workshop all weekend ( working ) I hope no one else is having any fun either. The VMX season starts soon and the F9 is still in a lot of peices, there is not much enthusiasm.:lol:
Hey, I managed to use one of those idiot face things.
You know I'm only joking, I'm just miserable.

[WilDun]

Good, I hope it rains hard!

It's raining here now and miserable too! so I hope this news cheers you up :laugh:

I'm measuring up a very small part at the moment and doing a simple drawing of it (the old fashioned way - well, using simple CAD anyway). - I hope to make a pattern and core for it soon and use them for my first pour, would be nice it it's successful, it would encourage me mo end! ...... ie if the weather clears up for next week. :(

[Flettner]

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_4990_zps7d0ceee9.jpg

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_4989_zps772085f5.jpg

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_4991_zpsaca495f9.jpg

I'm back having fun so you can all enjoy yourselves again. RG cylinder on the go again.

[WilDun]

I'm back having fun. RG cylinder on the go again.

Is it an optical illusion or just my imagination playing tricks? but the transfer passage cores look different ie. between the assembled and unassembled pictures - interesting shapes too!

[Flettner]

Yes I noticed that too. The assembled picture makes the transfers look steeper than they are. Also the exhaust eye port shape is distorted. Don't know why?The main thing is, I'm back on track again.

[WilDun]

Yes I noticed that too. Don't know why?The main thing is, I'm back on track again.

I thought it possibly might be a new scheme to bounce the charge around a bit to keep everything from seperating out! :bleh:
I'm way behind in the latest two stroke development of course, but is it likely that there will be some charge mixing between the eye ports and the front transfers? (but I guess the EFI and correct pipe would take care of that? ie assuming you'd be using EFI.).

I'm off track again (grandchildren duties).

[Flettner]

No, nothing special, just a " normal " cylinder, no EFI lugs on this one. I have a number of different cylinders to complete but this one ( x four ) is / are for a customer so I had better get on with it.

[WilDun]

I had better get on with it.

Yes, i see there's a ton of work there!
No doubt there will be a lot of BB pellets and bog adorning it all soon!

[Flettner]

Moving along, core boxes are next. Probably the most important part of the opperation. This box will have to split many ways to get the box away from the sand without damaging the finished core.

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_4994_zpsc7703fa2.jpg

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_4993_zpsa88bb521.jpg

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_4992_zpsf38f1a80.jpg

There is another tapered collet thingy that fits on the top as well to hold everything together.

[F5 Dave]

those auxiliaries look total enormous. Here I am trying to replicate something modern by carving into an existing 1970s air-cooled block. makes me a bit sick.

[Flettner]

They are perhaps not as bad as you might think, the camera seems to distort things a little. Although when you make your own cylinder then you can make them as big as you want to.

[F5 Dave]

By that I mean mine are a bit pitiful. I have port envy.

[WilDun]

I'm thinking it must take a lot of back to front thinking! but I guess it becomes easier when you've had a lot of practice.
However, I certainly won't be taking on making complicated cores like that for a while!
Will you be making any of the cores (ports) as separate pieces to be glued in place to the main core later?

[Flettner]

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_4996_zpsb79c9a70.jpg

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_4995_zpsc19c4095.jpg

Core box production

Should end up with a core box like this. This is the 360 engine core box.

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_0511.jpg

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_0510.jpg

[WilDun]

As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words!

[Flettner]

Down to the last piece of the puzzle, tommorw perhaps.

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_5001_zps82913572.jpg

Then on to the transfer core boxes, Macrocarpa from my extensive wood pile.

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_5002_zpscf3c6f89.jpg

This is the weapon of choice to shape all the wood pieces. 3HP three phase with a micro drive all sitting on a Fordson Major gearbox housing. Full adjustable angle plate out front. 600mm Dia disc, all made of bits found lying around.

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_4998_zpsa9e7ab4d.jpg

[WilDun]

Useful looking beast!
Looks like all your cores use tapered core prints, guess it must take a lot of accuracy ( in coreboxes and patterns) to get the cores to mate up with the prints in the pattern cavities (lengthwise)? - if that makes sense :scratch:

[Flettner]

As you will see, this core print accuracy is not a problem. The pattern is made from copies made from the core boxes, so everything will line up, no matter how bad the manufacture is.

[WilDun]

As you will see, this core print accuracy is not a problem.

I believe I can learn something here! :yes:

[Flettner]

Cylinder core box finaly finished.

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_5005_zps05f15d9e.jpg

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_5007_zpse3640ab5.jpg

Die grinding out the wood blocks to fill with Bondi, then press in transfer port shape, pre waxed.

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_5004_zps1d8ca2dc.jpg

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_5008_zps094d8ee5.jpg

[ken seeber]

Neil,

Are you a CO2 or a Fenotec sand man?

Ken

[Flettner]

Fenotec, you need to buy 20L at a time and it has a shelf life so I don't use it now.
CO2 sand is not as strong but cheaper for me. Both these systems are more prone to gasing (when casting) and are less permable ie make more gas and have more trouble getting rid of it.
I like to use Shell molding sand system but you need metal dies to set the stuff in. It doesn't gas nearly as bad and is very porous to let gas out.
So for now probably CO2 sand and pre heat the mold before pouring.

[Yow Ling]

I havnt contributed much for a while, so I am starting my foundry work with a small job.

The project is a thumb choke, Diesel Pig has one on his bucket and its pretty cool, he had a spare from his TZ which he haslent me to try and copy
Its entirley possible I will cock it up, but sucess is a poor teacher.
The assembled Thumb Choke
300784

Two main parts , the bracket and the lever
300785

made some bungs to fill the big holes
300786

then bogged up everywhere cable slots etc
300787

Tomorrow I will do a bit of sanding and a bit more bog to enable the plug to be removed from the sand
Thats it for today, hopefully Ill get some more done tomorrow night

[Flettner]

Where would we be without Bonifil.

[WilDun]

[QUOTE=Yow Ling;1130769712]I havnt contributed much for a while, so I am starting my foundry work with a small job.
/QUOTE]

Good to see you back.

[Flettner]

Pour a new mould from the core box

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_5009_zps27a6d8c2.jpg

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_5010_zpsc8bbe1ab.jpg

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_5011_zps9de741cf.jpg

These will be used to build the actual pattern. The core boxes will sit on the shelf for now until required to make the sand cores.

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_5012_zps5f462a50.jpg

The original parts used to build the core boxes are on the shelf never to be used again unless somthing gets very wrong and I need to remake the core boxes.

[Yow Ling]

Now back to beginners class

Using Flettners copy technique I made a mould of the 2 parts
the lever is easy it can be cast in an open mold like an ice block, the pedastal is a bit harder as it gets a top and bottom mould
I have finished the bottom , and will get onto the top shortly. I was a bit worried the plugs wouldnt come out but they did without too much damage.

300838

I will use this mould to make some copies which I will use to cast from , then give Diesel Pig his parts back before I ruin them

[TZ350]

Watching this is very interesting ....

[Flettner]

I was a bit worried the plugs wouldnt come out but they did without too much damage.



A wee bit of compressed air down the part line usually helps but I don't want to be telling you how to suck eggs.

[Yow Ling]

A wee bit of compressed air down the part line usually helps but I don't want to be telling you how to suck eggs.
I dont mind if you do, there arent many forums sharing what you have learned.

[Yow Ling]

Just finished the top of my copy mould , worked out OK
So far so good, its quite rewarding stuff, not too dificult and easy to get amazing results

300841

300842

[Flettner]

I call it " therapy "

[WilDun]

Pour a new mould from the core box .................
The original parts used to build the core boxes are on the shelf never to be used again unless somthing gets very wrong and I need to remake the core boxes.

Looking at the mouldings (which you have just poured), - are they made using casting resin?


Yow Ling,you're coming along well, - have you got your furnace etc. in operation? - mine has been delayed yet again but it's nearly there.

[Yow Ling]

Looking at the mouldings (which you have just poured), - are they made using casting resin?


Yow Ling,you're coming along well, - have you got your furnace etc. in operation? - mine has been delayed yet again but it's nearly there.

Hi Will, I got the furnace going last christmas, Ineed to make a couple of tools to handle the crucible and get some sand. Ill try and get those things sorted this week

[Flettner]

Yes, mouldings are of casting resin. I'm missing the rear port (I'm onto that tonight) and then the water jacket core. I'm not too sure of that just yet, could be a little tricky as the water inlet to the cylinder (RG500) is from the rear, not under the exhaust as you would expect. But we need good flow around the exhaust port. Might need some guide thingy's in place? And I've just realised this cylinder will need new heads as well, one head per cylinder, not like the originals. This cylinder is designed to have a gate valve in the exhaust (power valve), not the original drum valve to a volume in the head.

[TZ350]

I read some where Wob talking about cooling water goes into the head first then down the water jacket and exiting at the exhaust was the way to go. No sense in trying to cool the head with water that was pre heated by the exhaust.

[WilDun]

Hi Will, I got the furnace going last christmas, Ineed to make a couple of tools to handle the crucible and get some sand. Ill try and get those things sorted this week

Got all your gloves aprons etc? - I've still got to make tongs etc too, and I hope to really get stuck in and finish the furnace sometime soon, but I'm having to look after the grandkids etc. and the workshop really isn't the place for them!

I was impressed by the videos by Myford Boy etc, he just gets on with it and says basically nothing!- I've got them all downloaded now.
There are a lot of contradictions between the various enthusiasts, one good example is the use of steel crucibles for melting aluminium, I think I'll stick to the ceramic ones and avoid any problems!
I am hoping to start with smaller stuff ( model engines) and maybe work my way up to bike stuff, will see how it goes.

Must say the stuff we are getting from Flettner is top notch and I'm learning a lot here. I think this bike forum is really very good, - I'm not venturing into the wider forum much as yet though! ( mainly because I'm out of my league with bikes these days!).

[husaberg]

Yes, mouldings are of casting resin. I'm missing the rear port (I'm onto that tonight) and then the water jacket core. I'm not too sure of that just yet, could be a little tricky as the water inlet to the cylinder (RG500) is from the rear, not under the exhaust as you would expect. But we need good flow around the exhaust port. Might need some guide thingy's in place? And I've just realised this cylinder will need new heads as well, one head per cylinder, not like the originals. This cylinder is designed to have a gate valve in the exhaust (power valve), not the original drum valve to a volume in the head.

I have been following Neil but how the heck do you fit in those swooping transfers with the RG500 spacing's. It must be a little tight and challenging is it?

Anyway this is the one piece DEA RG500 heads molds.
300847300848

[WilDun]

Yes, mouldings are of casting resin. ........ water inlet to the cylinder (RG500) is from the rear, not under the exhaust as you would expect. ............ not the original drum valve to a volume in the head.

Guess the flow of colder water near the transfers before it hits the exhaust isn't such a bad idea!
Never did think the drum valve and the cavity was a very good idea - probably created a lot of extra heat round the front of the cylinder, well that's my take on it anyway!

[WilDun]

cooling water goes into the head first then down the water jacket and exiting at the exhaust was the way to go. No sense in trying to cool the head with water that was pre heated by the exhaust.


I think you're probably right, maybe leave the exhaust till last!

[TZ350]

this is the one piece DEA RG500 heads molds.
300847300848

Hi Husa, are these your molds?

[husaberg]

Hi Husa, are these your molds?

No they are a mold for a RG500 with individual heads.
On a net troll the other day I seen this.
http://coreprintpatterns.com/projects/

I are starting now to realise why Neil suggested to do a metal tool though.
Can Neil talk though the process?

[Flettner]

No they are a mold for a RG500 with individual heads.
On a net troll the other day I seen this.
http://coreprintpatterns.com/projects/

I are starting now to realise why Neil suggested to do a metal tool though.
Can Neil talk though the process?

Wow, some real patternmakers. Nice work they are doing.
Metal tooling, you can use Shell heat set sand, good strong stuff. But you need a metal die.
I use either the CNC to cut a mould or just turn my wood dies into aluminium, copy cast them. This will shrink the sand core down a little so you either live with it or up the size of you original to suit.
The truth is I find that by allowing the sand core to shrink slightly is a good thing, it makes fitting the mould together easier.
The swoopy ports? Yes I measured up the width originaly (cases are not here now) and all would fit, just. Now you have me thinking but this mould is a two (or three) engine design. The two other engines are single cylinders. If there is a problem the ports can be manipulated slightly to suit. First casting will go on a rotary valve single.
But I've got a VMX series to race starting next weekend and the Kawasaki is all over the bench in bits so I might have to put the mould making aside for this week. Pitty because I can't do patternmaking unless I'm " in the zone, you know, enthusiastic " and I am now, who knows week after next? What causes this, age? I tend to forget where I'm at (on the pattern, not literally yet) and it takes a while to warm to it again and I must say I am NOT in the zone for putting this Kawasaki back together.

[husaberg]

Wow, some real patternmakers. Nice work they are doing.
Metal tooling, you can use Shell heat set sand, good strong stuff. But you need a metal die.
I use either the CNC to cut a mould or just turn my wood dies into aluminium, copy cast them. This will shrink the sand core down a little so you either live with it or up the size of you original to suit.
The truth is I find that by allowing the sand core to shrink slightly is a good thing, it makes fitting the mould together easier.
The swoopy ports? Yes I measured up the width originaly (cases are not here now) and all would fit, just. Now you have me thinking but this mould is a two (or three) engine design. The two other engines are single cylinders. If there is a problem the ports can be manipulated slightly to suit. First casting will go on a rotary valve single.
But I've got a VMX series to race starting next weekend and the Kawasaki is all over the bench in bits so I might have to put the mould making aside for this week. Pitty because I can't do patternmaking unless I'm " in the zone, you know, enthusiastic " and I am now, who knows week after next? What causes this, age? I tend to forget where I'm at (on the pattern, not literally yet) and it takes a while to warm to it again and I must say I am NOT in the zone for putting this Kawasaki back together.

By one piece RG500 I meant one head per cylinder rather than the original shared
Dea made them (or they did make them) in batches of 4 I guess hence the 4 sets
For those that aren't familiar with Std RG500 heads they look like this.
300854

The pattern maker stuff was well cool Mahogany no less.
Elsewhere it show the copy program they use to make it with a 3d printer or a CNC direct.
http://coreprintpatterns.com/3d-software/
Your stuff however is way cooler to me.

[WilDun]

The pattern maker stuff was well cool Mahogany no less.

Elsewhere it show the copy program they use to make it with a 3d printer

Your stuff however is way cooler to me.

Woodern patterns can look fantastic, I can remember the original wooden pattern for the Masport Potbelly Stove on display (all varnished up} in the foyer at the Masport foundry in Mt.Wellington, - looked real good!

As for 3D printers have a look at this site -(think it must be in Canada or Alaska) - at first, the guy looks like he couldn't do this sort of stuff, but after watching the video right through, I changed my mind!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WWVVSZP3Au4

[Yow Ling]

Yes that is a great video Will.
I wonder if the casting resin Rencast would burn out like his PLA did ? Then I wouldnt have to get any greensand

[WilDun]

Yes that is a great video Will.
I wonder if the casting resin Rencast would burn out like his PLA did ? Then I wouldnt have to get any greensand

Neil would probably know that, but I believe that hard machinable wax would burn (melt) out even better, it could also be used for casting I would think.

Seems that you can make quite good hard machinable wax quite easily (it's expensive to buy), by mixing candle wax or similar with milk container plastic etc. but you've got to be careful when melting them together to make the hard wax, that you don't get the wax too hot and start a fire!

I already made a mould a while ago, using a plastic handle for the pattern and coating it with 50/50 plaster and sand mix! - Of course I'm having to wait till my furnace is up and running before trying it out.

http://daleshort.cc/doku.php?id=pages:machwax

[WilDun]

I can't do patternmaking unless I'm " in the zone, you know, enthusiastic "

I can assure you that age doesn't help at all.
In my case the mind wants to keep on trying to get it's message out, but the body doesn't want to comply and tries to suppress it, giving everyone the (wrong) impression that I'm lazy and befuddled. - well, that's how I see it anyway! :bleh:

[husaberg]

I seen this Neil would be interested in the layout boxer four. I thought I was clever thinking of the layout about 30 years later:o

[husaberg]

a few more...
Certainly a prettier and less fraught engine config with the gearbox that the Koing

[Kickaha]

He won three world championships but none with that motor

[Grumph]

Neil would probably know that, but I believe that hard machinable wax would burn (melt) out even better, it could also be used for casting I would think.

Seems that you can make quite good hard machinable wax quite easily (it's expensive to buy), by mixing candle wax or similar with milk container plastic etc. but you've got to be careful when melting them together to make the hard wax, that you don't get the wax too hot and start a fire!

I already made a mould a while ago, using a plastic handle for the pattern and coating it with 50/50 plaster and sand mix! - Of course I'm having to wait till my furnace is up and running before trying it out.

http://daleshort.cc/doku.php?id=pages:machwax

I had ambitions of doing lost wax casting some years back. Bought a block of paraffin wax big enough for a OHV cylinder head. From memory about $80 at the time. Never got round to it and finished up selling the block to someone.....Wouldn't know where to go now to get more - if i had the time....

[WilDun]

I had ambitions of doing lost wax casting some years back.......... if i had the time....

I think everyone interested in casting around the seventies and eighties were keen on lost wax castings, but the problem is that you still have to make the patterns with sprues etc. in the first place in order to produce the shape and of course that means either machining the wax to the required shape or making a mould to pour it into, then there are the problems with shrinking or slumping (with larger items).
I was lucky enough to work with a lot of s/s stuff made this way - beautiful job!

Sorry I still insist in spelling it "mould", whereas Americans spell it "mold" - same with "Zee" and "Zed" and aluminium I guess! - and then of course,there's the tomato controversy - never ending! so lets (try to) remain unique here! - my granddaughter speaks with an American accent and she spends a lot of time trying to correct me! so I've got a thing about it.
My Apologies to any Americans who might be reading this of course!

The good old tried and true greensand casting method is still up there and completely dependant on skill to get it right - I'm sure Neil will agree!

[ken seeber]

This is a great thread.

We, at STRIKE PRODUCTS, made a prototype cylinder barrel for a 100cc Yamaha KT100J engine, which is widely used in Oz karting, but nowhere else (I think). Because of the production methods used in the manufacture of the Yamaha cylinder, there were/are significant performance differences due to casting dimensional variances. The prototype barrel was based around a fully CNC machined, shrunk-in, CI liner, with the aluminium barrel cast with an accurate core making process.

The barrel concept was offered, with a lot of national support, to the then Australian Karting Association and also to the now current Karting Australia body. The idea was that this would have been available as an alternative, aftermarket part for the engine. The link below gives some further background to the proposal: http://www.strikeproducts.com.au/uploads/AKA%20J%20cylinder%20proposal%20241011.pdf

Either way, no luck, so the current proposal is to introduce new engines. Europe wins, Australia loses. I�m almost over it now. Almost.

The porting layout was based very heavily on the Yamaha barrel so the port size, passage sizes etc remained faithful to the existing rules. As you can see, it isn�t a high power engine.

Firstly, we designed the overall porting layout using Solidworks. From that model we then created designs for the shapes of both the main central core which incorporated the exhaust and inlet passages, plus the two (left and right) transfer passages.

These were then printed using the SLA method (China won here, 10 days after they got their approx. A$480 inc. freight, we had them (4 pieces) in our hands). Note the hollow nature of the prints (better quality in terms of possible distortion with heavy sections and less cost), the ribs, the bosses for location dowelling and also tapping for back screwing to a mould plate.

For the transfer passages, we created �coreboxes� using either pourable, 2 part polyurethane resin or silicone. In all cases, we vacuum de-bubbled the mix before pouring. This was done in two stages, using a corebox housing, made from some split �4 inch pipe with a central aluminium divider. The first stage was to embed the print in plasticine for the inner side, and then pour the larger outer side. Then with the print still embedded in the outer side, the plasticine was removed and the inner side poured. We used a release agent to be sure there was no sticking.

When assembled it was a simple matter to fill these with sand, Fenotec in our case. Removal was easy, particularly so with the slightly softer silicone.

Accuracy and finish is excellent, but this is obviously a product of the original SLA prints. Next time (?) we�d use our own FDM printer and make them from ABS filament.

There you go, lots of ways to skin a cat.

[husaberg]

This is a great thread.

We, at STRIKE PRODUCTS, made a prototype cylinder barrel for a 100cc Yamaha KT100J engine, which is widely used in Oz karting, but nowhere else (I think). Because of the production methods used in the manufacture of the Yamaha cylinder, there were/are significant performance differences due to casting dimensional variances. The prototype barrel was based around a fully CNC machined, shrunk-in, CI liner, with the aluminium barrel cast with an accurate core making process.

The barrel concept was offered, with a lot of national support, to the then Australian Karting Association and also to the now current Karting Australia body. The idea was that this would have been available as an alternative, aftermarket part for the engine. The link below gives some further background to the proposal: http://www.strikeproducts.com.au/uploads/AKA%20J%20cylinder%20proposal%20241011.pdf

Either way, no luck, so the current proposal is to introduce new engines. Europe wins, Australia loses. I�m almost over it now. Almost.

The porting layout was based very heavily on the Yamaha barrel so the port size, passage sizes etc remained faithful to the existing rules. As you can see, it isn�t a high power engine.

Firstly, we designed the overall porting layout using Solidworks. From that model we then created designs for the shapes of both the main central core which incorporated the exhaust and inlet passages, plus the two (left and right) transfer passages.

These were then printed using the SLA method (China won here, 10 days after they got their approx. A$480 inc. freight, we had them (4 pieces) in our hands). Note the hollow nature of the prints (better quality in terms of possible distortion with heavy sections and less cost), the ribs, the bosses for location dowelling and also tapping for back screwing to a mould plate.

For the transfer passages, we created �coreboxes� using either pourable, 2 part polyurethane resin or silicone. In all cases, we vacuum de-bubbled the mix before pouring. This was done in two stages, using a corebox housing, made from some split �4 inch pipe with a central aluminium divider. The first stage was to embed the print in plasticine for the inner side, and then pour the larger outer side. Then with the print still embedded in the outer side, the plasticine was removed and the inner side poured. We used a release agent to be sure there was no sticking.

When assembled it was a simple matter to fill these with sand, Fenotec in our case. Removal was easy, particularly so with the slightly softer silicone.

Accuracy and finish is excellent, but this is obviously a product of the original SLA prints. Next time (?) we�d use our own FDM printer and make them from ABS filament.

There you go, lots of ways to skin a cat.
Clever So how do you cast around the sleeve? is it corrugated like a Yamaha or Honda cast in place one ?Also is it aluminium coated for adhesion?

[Yow Ling]

Husa, its shrunk in not cast in


This is a great thread.

The prototype barrel was based around a fully CNC machined, shrunk-in, CI liner, with the aluminium barrel cast with an accurate core making process.

[husaberg]

Husa, its shrunk in not cast in

"The prototype barrel was based around a fully CNC machined, shrunk-in, CI liner, with the aluminium barrel cast with an accurate core making process."
So it is indeed ,I see its not only your neighbour diary you read Mike.:rolleyes:

[WilDun]

Good!
We've now got a couple of commercially experienced people (with different approaches to the challenge of course) to give us amateurs some guidance and ideas on "how to" -:yes:

[Flettner]

Kawasaki is restored to race winning form. Well it's all back together again and it even started up second kick, imagime that. Is it fuel injected? I don't know, you will have to ask my office as I was on holiday in Hawaii at the time :laugh:
Should be able to get back to the cylinder pattern next week.

[husaberg]

Kawasaki is restored to race winning form. Well it's all back together again and it even started up second kick, imagime that. Is it fuel injected? I don't know, you will have to ask my office as I was on holiday in Hawaii at the time :laugh:
Should be able to get back to the cylinder pattern next week.

Have you ever posted pics of the lake injector carb you made Neil?

[Flettner]

Um, I'm not sure? Perhaps this picture? Kawasaki used to run a lot of wires in the air intake?

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/36e7999c.jpg

This is by far the better system

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_0522_zpsce09d679.jpg

[Flettner]

Sorry, as you were, I was just happy to have the Kawasaki going agian, back to foundry stuff, hour meter has just flipped over 60 hours, on EFI.

[Yow Ling]

Far too many wires in there , looks like trickery to me. Saw the inside of a vw TSI motor yesterday, injector straight into the combusstion chamber, looked trick 1400cc turbo and supercharger 8 bent valves @$80 each ouch

Made some resin castings from my mould today, did 3 , first one disaster, 2nd ok but kinda shitty, 3rd was acceptable. these 2 I will cast using investment method, I may try and do some in greensand . Here is a couple of pics from todays efforts

301162
301161

[WilDun]

I may try and do some in greensand .


Guess you'll be trying lost wax for your investment trial?

A few days ago, I tried to melt some plastic (milk bottles) to mix with wax but the trial was a little inconclusive - I had to abandon it as I was using my wife's new stove and the house was getting to the stage where I was going to have to go outside in order to breathe!
I had to leave all the doors open for the rest of the afternoon to remove all the evidence! - not a good thing to do in this weather!
Back to the drawing board. :laugh:

[Yow Ling]

Guess you'll be trying lost wax for your investment trial?

A few days ago, I tried to melt some plastic (milk bottles) to mix with wax but the trial was a little inconclusive - I had to abandon it as I was using my wife's new stove and the house was getting to the stage where I was going to have to go outside in order to breathe!
I had to leave all the doors open for the rest of the afternoon to remove all the evidence! - not a good thing to do in this weather!
Back to the drawing board. :laugh:

Hi Will, not using wax. I have set the parts made of casting resin into plaster like the Canadian guy did, I will fire that block of plasterto get the resin and the foam risers etc out thenpour into the plaster/sand block. I think I will cook it outside, can't get into so much trouble out there.
Sand will be easier to do than this, but I have to try stuff, there is no way in the world you can get good at this by watching youtubes alone

[WilDun]

Hi Will, not using wax. I have set the parts made of casting resin into plaster
I think I will cook it outside, can't get into so much trouble out there.
I have to try stuff, there is no way in the world you can get good at this by watching youtubes alone

I don't really know, but I would be inclined to check whether or not the resin would burn out cleanly as opposed to plastic, maybe you should try it and see how it burns (ie how much of an ash residue it leaves behind) before trying it out in a mould, - not that giving it a try is going to do much harm of course.
I certainly wouldn't contemplate operating a furnace inside!! - the amount of heat coming out of those things could cause untold problems and I think the insurance company would not be impressed either!:no:

Better make sure your boundary problems don't become an even bigger issue as well! :laugh:

[Yow Ling]

I have a couple of hours of unsupervised time this morning so I put my investment mould in the furnace to remove the resin patterns. its a bit smellier and smokier than I thought so I have to hold my breath when I go check it, Im going to cook it for about an hour and see later how it went. If it goes ok Ill cast it on Sunday

302112

Cooking the mould

[WilDun]

I put my investment mould in the furnace to remove the resin patterns. its a bit smellier and smokier than I thought so I have to hold my breath when I go check it, Im going to cook it for about an hour and see later how it went. If it goes ok Ill cast it on Sunday
Cooking the mould

Pity you couldn't have cast it while the mould is still hot though.
Anyway, that looks like a good furnace, I'm sure it's the beginning of many happy hours in the foundry! good luck, but just be careful to keep on the right side of the neighbours! :eek5:

[WilDun]

Im going to cook it for about an hour and see later how it went. If it goes ok Ill cast it on Sunday


Any joy with your first attempt?

[Flettner]

We have gears, 360 engine, and a crankshaft.

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_5013_zps590d71f6.jpg

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_5014_zps8038a3c6.jpg

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_5015_zpsad48120c.jpg

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_5016_zpsbacf6efd.jpg

[F5 Dave]

Neil you project finisher. Stunning.

[Yow Ling]

bears engine, will it have rear facing exhaust ?

I better just go to the shed and sweep the floor

[Flettner]

Yes rear exhaust, sick of chamber damage.

[mr bucketracer]

nice work neal , would love to start a engine project one day

[ken seeber]

Neil,

Hats off to you. You are incredibly productive. Not just the pattern making, but the conceptual design, the detail design, the manufacturability, the actual production and the actual running of a finished project.

Just so I feel even more in awe, tell me you also have a day job !!

Superb.

Ken

[Flettner]

Neil,

Hats off to you. You are incredibly productive. Not just the pattern making, but the conceptual design, the detail design, the manufacturability, the actual production and the actual running of a finished project.

Just so I feel even more in awe, tell me you also have a day job !!

Superb.

Ken

Perhaps if I had a real job I might get more done, I own and run a small machining business, I thought that maybe when I worked for myself I might get more time to do my stuff, wrong.
At least it gives me a well equipped workshop at my disposal.

[WilDun]

Taken me months to produce a half pie furnace, thought I wasn't doing too bad and then you come up with something like this, I have always prided myself on never being envious of anyone, but this takes me to the limit I must say!

By the way, what rod are you using ( next you'll tell me you made it as well!) - Great job! :2thumbsup.

[husaberg]

Well I have crankcase envy...........

[Flettner]

Engine in the frame, sealed up, this is the water cooled crank case, behind the rotary valve.

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t380/uniflow/IMG_5017_zps1595abf0.jpg

[Drew]

Posting more to subscribe than anything. However, a barrel for a fourstroke with a liner should be pretty easy yeah?

Bit of a water jacket and a decent surface to mount the head to would be handy for my special motor.

[husaberg]

Posting more to subscribe than anything. However, a barrel for a fourstroke with a liner should be pretty easy yeah?

Bit of a water jacket and a decent surface to mount the head to would be handy for my special motor.

Up the top next to search thread is thread tools one of the thread tools is subscribe to thread.

[Drew]

Up the top next to search thread is thread tools one of the thread tools is subscribe to thread.

Yes I know. But I also asked a question.

[husaberg]

Yes I know. But I also asked a question.

that was a question?


Neil do you have any more pics of the mold of around the crankcase entry ie the top? I could not quite figure that out from the last photo montage.

[Flettner]

Posting more to subscribe than anything. However, a barrel for a fourstroke with a liner should be pretty easy yeah?

Bit of a water jacket and a decent surface to mount the head to would be handy for my special motor.

Yes, fourstroke cylinder would be easy, to suit what head?

[Flettner]

that was a question?


Neil do you have any more pics of the mold of around the crankcase entry ie the top? I could not quite figure that out from the last photo montage.

Sorry husaberg, I'm not sure I understand what you are asking? Are talking about the rotary valve housing?

[Drew]

Yes, fourstroke cylinder would be easy, to suit what head?

VT250 head. Got that XL motor off Mike with a 250 head and slug.

[husaberg]

Sorry husaberg, I'm not sure I understand what you are asking? Are talking about the rotary valve housing?

no sorry the top where the cylinder goes with the transfer entries.

How it goes from this
302974
to this
302942
Am I right to guess there is another male component for the bottom of the transfers ie the curved shaft that provides the transition from the crankcase?

[F5 Dave]

Yes, fourstroke cylinder would be easy, . . .
But fairly pointless bearing in mind the intrinsic design flaws of the 1/2 time engine principle.

[husaberg]

Yes, fourstroke cylinder would be easy, to suit what head?


VT250 head. Got that XL motor off Mike with a 250 head and slug.

This is the engine Drew has.
Oyster I think did the first this was one done after.
I reckon it needs a pitbike inner rotor as well drew and from memory the water pump was unfinished is that right?

[Drew]

This is the engine Drew has.
Oyster I think did the first this was one done after.
I reckon it needs a pitbike inner rotor as well drew and from memory the water pump was unfinished is that right?
Waterpump looks to be operational from what I can tell.

What do you mean about the rotor? Currently has the auto advancing ignition pickup from an XL on it. But ignitech is the obvious best upgrade for that.

[Grumph]

Waterpump looks to be operational from what I can tell.

What do you mean about the rotor? Currently has the auto advancing ignition pickup from an XL on it. But ignitech is the obvious best upgrade for that.

Don't bother with a water cooled barrel for that - it doesn't need one. Just put a decent ignition on it and sort it.
that one i'm pretty sure was first built by Peter Lambert here in ChCh.

[Kickaha]

that one i'm pretty sure was first built by Peter Lambert here in ChCh.
It was, although he didn't ever run it, still see him about but he's more into cycling and off road bikes now