VFR owners' thread, for VFRPS members and prospective members

[more_fasterer]

Hey guys could one of you viffer experts please give me some advice on how to sort out my nc30?

Just got it as a project bike to keep while I sell my other vfr, but it seems to have a problem at high rpm. Runs beautifully right up to 12thousand or so then suddenly starts surging quite badly as if starving for fuel? I just cleaned the carbs and found a sticky slide, got that working freely again, adjusted the throttle positions on the rear 2 and it ran noticeably better, but hasn't fixed the misfire at all! My co worker, an ex bike mechanic, says it sounds like it could be electrical since it's such a sudden, very pronounced problem, but can't say without checking it out himself. Being that it's running like it's starving for fuel, and it's had an aftermarket exhaust and velocity stacks I'm inclined to think that the last owner might have messed with the tuning of the carbs and made a hash up of it. Could someone please tell me to a good place to start looking when I get the chance? I've read that the vacuum set up can cause fueling issues after long periods at high rpm, but the issue starts from the moment you wind it up to 12 thousand whether I've been riding it hard for an hour, or just pulled out of the driveway. Sorry for the long post but I've got a big Easter weekend ride coming up with a couple 600s and a litre bike, so I'll need everything the little 400s got!

Almost forgot; after the surging, it backfires quite badly when backing off the throttle... Another clue it's probably a carb issue, maybe?

It sounds like it's an early model ('89 or 90), which had small 110 main jets front and rear. When I got my '89 NC30 it had a Remus can on it and behaved just as you've described. Chuck a pair of 118 size jets in the front carbs and 120's in the rears, get the carbs balanced and the idle mixtures adjusted, and enjoy :)

[R2D2]

It sounds like it's an early model ('89 or 90), which had small 110 main jets front and rear. When I got my '89 NC30 it had a Remus can on it and behaved just as you've described. Chuck a pair of 118 size jets in the front carbs and 120's in the rears, get the carbs balanced and the idle mixtures adjusted, and enjoy :)
Well you're right about the current jet sizes in it so I might have to give that a try!


Buuuut I don't have the gauges for that. How much did it run you to get them balanced?

[more_fasterer]

Only $50, cos I had a mate do it. While you've got the carbs apart I recommend adding another 0.5mm shim under each of the needles, and drilling out the holes in the slide pistons to 2.5mm. I found these worked well to smooth out the fuelling around the 6-7k rpm area. http://www.akhara.com/nc30/nc30hrccarb/

[HenryDorsetCase]

We've all seen the RC30 on tardme I take it.

None of you bastards buy lotto tickets this week, mkay?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/classic-vintage/auction-706547942.htm

[Icemaestro]

We've all seen the RC30 on tardme I take it.

None of you bastards buy lotto tickets this week, mkay?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/classic-vintage/auction-706547942.htm

Haha that one snuck past my daily emails due to the fact its over my price range by a little ;-). Maybe I show the wife that and she'd be more keen on letting me get an rvf;-)

[sil3nt]

Not impressed with the damage to fairing.

[Icemaestro]

I know! what a muppet (whoever it was who did that). though the temptation to blast on it would be massive, and at the end of the day, these things are meant to be enjoyed...however one would think that with a 25-40k bike you would spend a grand on some track stuff to put on it when you did go for a ride/track day..

[sil3nt]

Here is a video of me and a mate on his Aprilia RS125 at taupo on Friday

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25N-As0EE6U

[ecko_nzed]

Here is a video of me and a mate on his Aprilia RS125 at taupo on Friday

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25N-As0EE6U

Lol, good little battle going on. Loved when he gave you the fingers passing him on the straights. Cool telemetry on the video too

[actungbaby]

Yup, just being nosey :-)
*and a bit miffed I didn't get one for my 1$ initial bid ;-) haha*

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was bidding on that black one was bit rough but great price. seemd to just need tidy up

Seem terrible luck with buying vfr 400 of tm won one and dude sold to someone else after claimed guy test rode it and crashed it.

[actungbaby]

We've all seen the RC30 on tardme I take it.

None of you bastards buy lotto tickets this week, mkay?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/classic-vintage/auction-706547942.htm

Holy shit is it freds ;-) yes i may have to buy a lotto ticket saved the pics to my desktop . oh just wont do that blmish on the fiaring

;-) oh well there always another day or decade . happy with my vfr 750 love to have vfr 400 though.

[Icemaestro]

Bit rough is a bit of an understatement I reckon!

Also, gutted that's a bit ridiculous, coulda bought off that guy for cheap?;-)

Speaking of a bit rough...did anyone see gatch's vfr? I feel the need to post pics..had the carbs apart again..cleaned them out as idle jet was blocked and crap all through them, set idle mix screws, new plugs in the rear two cylinders (front two I have put off doing with the Oil and filter):-p.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Icemaestro]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/20/a6ynebym.jpg

Should I change to white wheels? Or just change the back wheel to white?

And I'm thinking tank cover in red and white as it's 89$ USAd in japan...maybe 150/200 max shipped as opposed to 400-450 to get it painted...thoughts?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[sil3nt]

BT90 rear tyre listed here http://www.bits4bikes.co.nz/parts/Honda/635.aspx

A few bridgestone front tyres available but not a BT90.

Trouble with the BT90 for the rear is that it is a track biased tyre and probably won't hold up to road riding very nicely.

[Autech]

So an update on my VFR purchase (it's not all that bad).

So whomever decided to do the fork oil last had overfilled the forks resulting in compression lock. Mechanic said its not uncommon as the fill level can be misinterpreted. That's all sorted, got the bike on stands in the garage still just while the mechanic checks over the front calipers which were having piston issue. All going to plan might get my 2nd ever ride in this weekend. Hoping to do a track day on her on the 6th but wont take it out unless I'm 100% happy with how the bike is feeling. Over all seems a good buy though, with the exception of the paddock stands which I may have bought anyway bikes only cost $200ish to get sorted. At least now I know what I am sitting on while caning it over the port hills!

That video of Taupo looked fun, got fond memories of Taupo, my favourite track so far... Love how you boys are tearing strips off all the big bikes

[sil3nt]

Love how you boys are tearing strips off all the big bikesIt was the slowest group there so nothing to brag about really :lol:

[Autech]

It was the slowest group there so nothing to brag about really :lol:

The safest group to be in in my experience, the medium group is where all the crashes happen lol

[HenryDorsetCase]

The safest group to be in in my experience, the medium group is where all the crashes happen lol

fast group on a small bike is fun. Until you get Dennis Charlett and some other racer passing you one inside and one outside AT THE SAME TIME... then you shit yourself

[sil3nt]

Another RC30 http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=714723533

[lukemillar]

Another RC30 http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=714723533

This one I'm interested in! Always wanted to race an RC30 in Posties F1 but could't buy a nice RC30 and turn it into a race bike. Still not going to be cheap.

I wonder what the reserve is?

[Autech]

Finally got my bike out in the weekend, was a tad wet but she handles beautiful, really happy with my choice. Sounds farking fantastic too, got quite a loud pipe on it, love how it turns from a growl to a purr up high.

[sil3nt]

I said I wouldn't but...


Japamart : Congratulations!! You won the auction

[Icemaestro]

Ooh, what did you buy? Yahoo japan is addictive :-p


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[sil3nt]

MC28 rear wheel.

[Icemaestro]

Nice, what did that set you back? And have they said how much shipping to nz would be?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[sil3nt]

Nice, what did that set you back? And have they said how much shipping to nz would be?


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkWill let you know when I find out.

[ecko_nzed]

Having a bit of a clean out. Got old damaged body work from my RVF. Pretty much every piece is damaged in some way, but might be suitable for spares. Any takers? 296395296396296397296398296399296400

[ecko_nzed]

And some more. 296401296402296403296404

[Icemaestro]

If only I had an RVF to put it on :-P

[sil3nt]

Cost me about $350 so far. If they can ship it here for less than $250 I will be happy! A wheel from the UK was going to cost around $800. I didn't want to pay more than $700. Crazy money for a wheel but they are impossible to find. It will be just my luck that one will pop up much cheaper over here now :rolleyes:
My major worry is the condition of the wheel. I really do hope it is straight!
296411

[Autech]

Excuse my ignorance, but what is the main benefit of this wheel? Different size?

[sil3nt]

Excuse my ignorance, but what is the main benefit of this wheel? Different size?17" instead of 18"

Gives a few more options when choosing tyres.

[Icemaestro]

just a few :-P on the 18" there are 3 options, 17" is standard these days, oodles of choices...

[Autech]

Ok, I thought the swap of choice is for the RVF rear? Guessing they share the same wheel :2guns:

Yeah tyre choice is rather limited with these VFR's.

[sil3nt]

Ok, I thought the swap of choice is for the RVF rear? Guessing they share the same wheel :2guns:

Yeah tyre choice is rather limited with these VFR's.RVF and MC28 share the same rear wheel.

[Autech]

RVF and MC28 share the same rear wheel.

Wheelie? Haha. Glad you found one mate, I will no doubt end up hunting for one if ever I purchase an NC30.

[sil3nt]

Cost me about $350 so far. If they can ship it here for less than $250 I will be happy! A wheel from the UK was going to cost around $800. I didn't want to pay more than $700. Crazy money for a wheel but they are impossible to find. It will be just my luck that one will pop up much cheaper over here now :rolleyes:
My major worry is the condition of the wheel. I really do hope it is straight!
296411$118 NZD to ship it :woohoo:

Total cost just under $500.

I really fkn hope I got the right wheel and it is straight and true :shutup:

[sil3nt]

Just received my GST bill. Forgot anything over $400 will get stung with this.

$116.34

So total cost is somewhere around $600. Still happy with that!


Also my forks came back from KSS. Exciting times.

[Icemaestro]

I wonder if japamart would be sneaky and chuck a gift invoice in there or something if you asked....as they are second hand goods...

[Icemaestro]

what do you reckon shipping is on this? (http://japamart.com/auctoolitem.php?url=http://page2.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/b156416578)

[sil3nt]

I wonder if japamart would be sneaky and chuck a gift invoice in there or something if you asked....as they are second hand goods...They asked whether to declare the value of auction or auction + fees for insurance purposes. I went with auction + fees. I think I still would have been over the $400 limit if I just went with auction value.

Why would you want that bike? It looks stupid. Stock shape is best shape :yes:

[Icemaestro]

It was the shipping that put you over, some places will let you declare it a gift though

I agree, it was the cheapest one on there today however..one went for 2.5k us a little while back...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[HenryDorsetCase]

what do you reckon shipping is on this? (http://japamart.com/auctoolitem.php?url=http://page2.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/b156416578)

fuck that check this out!

$12500 NZD

http://japamart.com/auctoolitem.php?url=http://page17.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/v345013910

if you want a daily rider RC30 thats cheap.

$3k to get it here, $1500 on the road?

or like $20k for an RC45

http://japamart.com/auctoolitem.php?url=http://page10.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/m120033027

[Icemaestro]

Wow...haha if only...try me in 15 years time. You don't hear a lot about rc45's...were they fuel injected?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[vifferman]

fuck that check this out!

$12500 NZD

http://japamart.com/auctoolitem.php?url=http://page17.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/v345013910

if you want a daily rider RC30 thats cheap.

$3k to get it here, $1500 on the road?

or like $20k for an RC45

http://japamart.com/auctoolitem.php?url=http://page10.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/m120033027

I wish I'd thought of that before I bought my car...:facepalm:

[HenryDorsetCase]

Wow...haha if only...try me in 15 years time. You don't hear a lot about rc45's...were they fuel injected?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yup. a completely different motor to the RC30 too: camdrive on one side of the block instead of in the middle, EFI etc.

Probably a better road bike but I remember reading that the RC30 was a better race bike out of the crate.

But when an average condition RC30 goes in UnZud for over $30k, and if these are anything like OK, they are within reach of the working man.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_RVF750_RC45

[sil3nt]

Anyone got a spare front rim?

[Icemaestro]

Yes I have white and black front rims (black on the bike now)...would be keen to swap a set of black rims for my two white ones?what colour you after?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[sil3nt]

Yes I have white and black front rims (black on the bike now)...would be keen to swap a set of black rims for my two white ones?what colour you after?


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkAfter black preferably! But anything is better than nothing.

[HenryDorsetCase]

Anyone got a spare front rim?

is MC21 the same? ( I am assuming you want an NC30 front rim). I have one but am undecided about selling it. I am going to get rid of almost all my NC30 spares except crash spares, which a front rim kind of is.

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/166629-NSR250-MC21-wheels-with-wets!?p=1130715415#post1130715415

[sil3nt]

is MC21 the same? ( I am assuming you want an NC30 front rim). I have one but am undecided about selling it. I am going to get rid of almost all my NC30 spares except crash spares, which a front rim kind of is.

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/166629-NSR250-MC21-wheels-with-wets!?p=1130715415#post1130715415What else do you have? Let me know when you want to sell the track bike :innocent:

Pretty sure the MC21 rim does not fit.

[Icemaestro]

I could swap to my white front and sell the black one, might just need a hand to change it over...also do the bearings sit in the wheel itself (for both front and rear)? Is there any way of checking the integrity of bearings If I am swapping rims?
Also if you have the socket for the rear :-p...

Mmm spare parts...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[sil3nt]

I could swap to my white front and sell the black one, might just need a hand to change it over...also do the bearings sit in the wheel itself (for both front and rear)? Is there any way of checking the integrity of bearings If I am swapping rims?
Also if you have the socket for the rear :-p...

Mmm spare parts...


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkTwo bearings one each side of the wheel. Not sure how you check them properly but you could hear mine move around with the wheel off. I got the shop to replace them yesterday. $20 for bearings and $30 for labour. There is no bearing on the rear wheel it is in the hub.

I don't have a socket for the rear but I will be getting one at some stage.

[HenryDorsetCase]

What else do you have? Let me know when you want to sell the track bike :innocent:

Pretty sure the MC21 rim does not fit.

track bike runs but desperately needs a tune/time spent making it run better-er. I was told to repack the zorst because it was too noisy (straight pipe FTW) and that and a standard airbox lid are strangling it I think.

It starts and runs but doesnt pull cleanly. I have a set of new plugs for it and need to spend time on it. In terms of spares I have a couple of fish bins full of stuff. Plus a frame and swingarm (with VIN tag and rego on hold!), a front rim, sundry brake parts including some usable (I think) front discs, a couple of sets of forks (both of which need the stanchions rechroming) and a set of not standard road fairings. Also a spare singleseat fibreglass tail unit, a complete road wiring loom, blahdeblah. Not much motor parts though there are a few airbox lids and some HRC clone short/long inlet trumpets.

It is all out in a storage unit at present. When I get my garage sorted I am going to bring it all back, and sell all I don't want and possibly the bike too. I've done two trackdays in the last two years both on my road bike! Fuck knows what it cost, or what it's worth....

piss poor I know.

[sil3nt]

Oh yeah also after a 14t sprocket for a 525 (stock) chain.

[willytheekid]

:eek:...My 929 shock just arrived! :banana:

...and my new foot pegs are on there way :eek:

...and I just heard from the Germans!:eek:...they have just started on my custom seat cover:drool:

so friggin happy!...bustin the bottle of jack out tonight :p

http://www.thenextgreatgeneration.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/funny-pictures-happy-drunk-orange-cat.jpg

Have a great weekend Kbers :wavey:

[sil3nt]

:eek:...My 929 shock just arrived! :banana:

...and my new foot pegs are on there way :eek:

...and I just heard from the Germans!:eek:...they have just started on my custom seat cover:drool:

so friggin happy!...bustin the bottle of jack out tonight :p

http://www.thenextgreatgeneration.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/funny-pictures-happy-drunk-orange-cat.jpg

Have a great weekend Kbers :wavey:You have a 750 right?

[willytheekid]

You have a 750 right?

yup...96 VFR750 RC36-2 (and yes...getting the 39mm spacer for the rear shock fabricated soon)

[vifferman]

Hi, fellow VFR owners. I have a friend in OZ (also a VFR owner of many years), who asked if I could ask you a question about VFR400s, so here it is:

"A friend has a vfr400 trackbike, but she is complaining the shape isnt allowing her to slide off the seat and just isn't comfortable (compared to her other bike).
She wants to swap to a later tank, I've googled but nothing comes up? Anyone seen this done? Where does someone start that wants to do this other, than at a wreckers going though all their tanks to find the best base to start with?"

I just realised when I edited this for posting that it's a bit short on details (like model years), so I'll get back with those as soon as I have them.

[ecko_nzed]

Hi, fellow VFR owners. I have a friend in OZ (also a VFR owner of many years), who asked if I could ask you a question about VFR400s, so here it is:

"A friend has a vfr400 trackbike, but she is complaining the shape isnt allowing her to slide off the seat and just isn't comfortable (compared to her other bike).
She wants to swap to a later tank, I've googled but nothing comes up? Anyone seen this done? Where does someone start that wants to do this other, than at a wreckers going though all their tanks to find the best base to start with?"

I just realised when I edited this for posting that it's a bit short on details (like model years), so I'll get back with those as soon as I have them.

Hanging off..... You're doing it wrong

[ecko_nzed]

In my non-expert opinion, I think the tank has bugger all to do with it. When sliding off the seat (and I'm assuming we are talking about getting around corners quicker) I am using my legs to lift the weight off my ass, then using my legs and arms to slide said bottom to the left or right. I would look at the position of the rearsets and the clipons, sounds like rearsets are too low to allow her to take weight off her butt to slide.

[sil3nt]

Hanging off..... You're doing it wrongThat is my initial thought as well. Although I can't talk as I have no idea how to 'hang off'

[Madness]

I just realised when I edited this for posting that it's a bit short on details (like model years), so I'll get back with those as soon as I have them.

I think we need pics of the lady in questions arse as well. Just so the best advice can be given, of course.

[Scuba_Steve]

Hey people, I've got a problem with me VFR I'm about 80% sure is fuel pump related but can't concrete it. So before running out & splashing out moneys to replace the pump, would anyone happen to have 1 laying round they wouldn't mind loaning out for a week or 2 so I can prove my theory?

I've got a 86 VFR700F if that changes anything

[willytheekid]

Hey people, I've got a problem with me VFR I'm about 80% sure is fuel pump related but can't concrete it. So before running out & splashing out moneys to replace the pump, would anyone happen to have 1 laying round they wouldn't mind loaning out for a week or 2 so I can prove my theory?

I've got a 86 VFR700F if that changes anything

Ohh no's! :shit: (VFR's don't break!?!)

"There is an electronic relay that sends power to fuel pump, and i'd suggest that you use a jumper wire to bypass it for testing purposes.

With bypass installed, pump should click whenever key is on and fuel level runs low in carbs"

Taken from - http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthread.php/36037-91-vfr-750-doesn-t-start-fuel-pump-only-spits-out-a-little-fuel

(hint...sign up to VFRworld.com and vfrdiscussion.com if your not already mate...every VFR question you could ever have....answer is there mate ;) )

all the best :D

[Scuba_Steve]

Ohh no's! :shit: (VFR's don't break!?!)

Well technically it's the Mitsi pump I claim at fault... So I guess we're still good there :lol:



"There is an electronic relay that sends power to fuel pump, and i'd suggest that you use a jumper wire to bypass it for testing purposes.

With bypass installed, pump should click whenever key is on and fuel level runs low in carbs"

Taken from - http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthread.php/36037-91-vfr-750-doesn-t-start-fuel-pump-only-spits-out-a-little-fuel

(hint...sign up to VFRworld.com and vfrdiscussion.com if your not already mate...every VFR question you could ever have....answer is there mate ;) )

all the best :D

I've done the tests in the Haynes manual which suggests that shouldn't be the fault & in my mind the fuel pump isn't giving constant results like what I'd expect. I might spend more time bypassing the relay to see if by chance it is intermittently cutting out but I'm still 75% sure it's the fuel pump at fault

[vifferman]

In my non-expert opinion, I think the tank has bugger all to do with it. When sliding off the seat (and I'm assuming we are talking about getting around corners quicker) I am using my legs to lift the weight off my ass, then using my legs and arms to slide said bottom to the left or right. I would look at the position of the rearsets and the clipons, sounds like rearsets are too low to allow her to take weight off her butt to slide.
I suspect (and this is pure conjecture here), that being a bloke of the feminine variety, this person might be not very tall, and that when she's hangin off a lower profile and/or narrower tank might make it easier for her to hang off the side and still be attached to the handlebars and footlingpegs.

[vifferman]

Got me a new clear LED tail-light and (non-LED) front indicators, because I busted my taillight on the last day of work last year. (This is actually just a test post, because I've had my VFR nearly 10 years now, and thought I'd post summat about the changes I've made to it over the last decade.

http://homepages.vodafone.co.nz/~cam4/Viffer001.jpg

[cleverchap]

I've made a couple of changes to my VFR as well

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y45/Cleverchap/VFR%20Streetfighter%20build%202013/IMG_2287.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/Cleverchap/media/VFR%20Streetfighter%20build%202013/IMG_2287.jpg.html)

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y45/Cleverchap/VFR%20Streetfighter%20build%202013/IMG_2289.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/Cleverchap/media/VFR%20Streetfighter%20build%202013/IMG_2289.jpg.html)

[vifferman]

CleverChap said: "I've made a couple of changes to my VFR as well"

Wow!. That's really awesome work! I love the blue frame.
Looks like you did a whole lot of big mods, all at once, instead of dribs'n'drabs over nearly 10 years like me.
The rear wheel looks familiar, what's that off - is it Triumph?

[cleverchap]

Stock 4th generation VFR750 rear wheel

[HenryDorsetCase]

I've made a couple of changes to my VFR as well


is the nitrous for show, or go?

[Erelyes]

I've made a couple of changes to my VFR as well

Veery nice! Love the cans.

[vifferman]

Stock 4th generation VFR750 rear wheel
Yeah, I thought after I posted that it might be the case. I'm not overly familiar with the 4th Gen; I had a VTR1000 before the VFR800, and a 3rd gen before that, and a VF500 before that.

[vifferman]

is the nitrous for show, or go?
That'll be an overflow catch can for the radiator; a NOS bottle for that is almost de rigeur for streetfighters.

Alrighty; here's a quick synopsis of what's non-standard on my bike (just in case anyone gives a rat's), in roughly chronological order. The tank has a CF cover (I think Geelong Carboncraft), and also Aussie is the Staintune highmount. This has three modes: stealth (normal spud), everyday (cut-down spud), and raucous (no spud). Single seat cowl's been modified so it can be on with the pillion handles in place. Standard headlight bulbs are crappy Honda 40 or 45W; adapter rings allow any brand of any H4 halogens, so it's got dual 55/60W, as they are more'n adequate.

First week a Ventura packrack (eventually) went on it. The dealer apparently took this as an opportunity to prove what crap customer service they excelled at, how greedy they are, and how prepared they were to renege on deals, and tell lies, all for a relatively small profit. So y'see, since 2004, I haven't set foot in their North Shore shop once, and have spent many MANY thousands of dollars on servicing, accessories, parts, tyres, oil, jackets, trousers, boots, helmets, wet-weather gear, gloves, etc etc,anywhere but in their store.
When I bought the VFR it had an uncustomarily good (for a Honda) gearchange, so I fitted a Factory Pro Evo Star shifter kit to prolong the niceness. What wasn't nice was the snatchiness off a closed throttle, and the lean surge at constant small throttle openings. Taking all the slack out of the throttle cable and fitting O2 sensor eliminators fixed that.
It originally had Bridgestones on it; these were replaced with Avon Storms as I'd had a good run with them. However (but!) a few years ago when a near-new front Storm wore a nasty step in it, I saw the error of my ways, and it's had Michelins ever since - Pilot Power front, and PR2 or 3 rear. Tyre valves are Ariete 90-degree alloy ones. It did have chromed Honda Civic wheelnuts fitted to the rear wheel, but I put the original ones bakc on a few weeks ago, painted gold to match the front disk carriers. All three disks have been replaced in the last couple of years.
It had a standard Honda airfilter on it, which I converted to a Unifilter after a dusty trip up to Cape Reinga (before the road was sealed). I got sick of cleaning it and re-oiling it, so last year a BMC went in. If I could've got one readily, a Pipercross would've been the first choice.
It's had two different PC2's in it, but I could never find a good map, and I've found that just the O2 Sensor eliminators with no PC2 works really well.
My last two bikes had R/R problems. On the VFR750, I fitted a new R/R where the horn normally goes, with thick wires from there to the stator and battery. When I had the VTR, I fitted a clock/voltmeter, and yet still missed the tell-tale signs of an R/R going west; I even bought a new battery it didn't really need.:brick:
So... one of the early mods was fitting a 12V Pentium cooling fan on top of the R/R, under the left-side cowl. Must've helped - as far as I know it's still on the original R/R. Oh - and the MotoBatt battery's been on board for 5 or or 6 years so far.:woohoo:
What else... I dropped the bike at standstill years ago, and bent the right-hand footpeg, and cracked the clutch cover. JB Weld fixed the cover and saved me over $200, and I got the drilled footpeg brackets for $0, but had to pay $27 for them to come almost literally on a slow boat from China (well... Canadia), which took almost 8 weeks.
I dabbled with a brake light flasher, until I found out it was illegal (and anyway, it died).

I fitted an Elka rear shock a few years ago, then followed that up with heavier Sonic Springs in the forks. A crappy plastic hugger (Pyramid or somesuch) came from Mrka, to replace a rubber flap I had behind the shock. I later had the forks fettled by Robert at CKT (now KSS), and discovered that with new fork seals and Racetech bits dialed in for the springs, the front end was great at low speed, or over 90 km/h, but at 70-90 on non-smooth roads, my arms got a hammering. Turned out Sonic Springs stole their spring calculator from Racetech, and it was recommending springs that were much too stiff. So, back the forks went to Dr Bob, and softer Ohlins springs and more revalving to match them went in. Then a roadtrip to New Plymouth resulted in the Elka being gutted and fitted with tasty Ohlins bits and oil (only the best lesbian Afghani fur seal penguin whale oil, natch).
Recentlyish, I recovered the seat with a cover I bought off TardMe, and added some extra foam while I was at it. It's good. Well... at least it's better.

Oh - there's an extra button on the right switchblock: it's a waterproof button connected to my garage door opener, so I can have the door up by the time I ride in. Another extra switch is a fan override on the left switchblock. The VFR's have pannier radiators, which are crap at cooling in slow-speed traffic, so with the manual switch I can flick the fan on early. Unfortunately, it still sucks instead of blowing like the VTR one, so it's fighting natural airflow. I also added a new thermo fan switch, which trips at 95C and goes off at 85, instead of 106/96 like the OEM one.
All the lecky bits are connected to a BlueSeas 5025 fusebox, which is half switched by the ignition, and the rest on all the time. Extra electrics include two Fiamm horns under the front cowl; they (and the standard horn) run off a thick cable running to a relay near the horns. There's also an accessory socket on 1m of cable under the seat, for tyre pump, GPS or whatever. The original heated grips (which were better, being smaller diameter and with an easy-to-use rotary controller) died and were replaced by solid-state Oxford ones with push button +/- switches (tactile, but not through winter gloves) and LEDs to indicate which of four heat settings they're on.
I ran lower gearing (one tooth down on the front) for a couple of years, with a Jaycar speedo healer fitted, as most of my running is around town, but when I replaced the chain with an RK one, I went back to standard gearing.
It's had iridium NGK plugs in it for a few years - they're still good.
The latest stuff is the rear taillight to replace the one I smashed on the last day of work last year. It's an LED one from Thurn Motorsports in Germany. I replaced the front indicators at the same time coz I didn't like the orange 'dumbo ears'. For a few years before that, I had CF blanking plates and LP flushmounts at the front, but got sick of the crappy quality of the indicator bulb sockets and the lack of ready suppliers of the unusual bulbs.
And that's about it, I think...

[Swoop]

Far canal! Nice rides and modifications done guys!


Hey people, I've got a problem with me VFR... I've got a 86 VFR700F if that changes anything
What is it doing? Dying randomly?

[Scuba_Steve]

What is it doing? Dying randomly?

Not quite randomly, it fails at repeatable intervals.
Once warmed (not sure if this is a requirement) I'll get around 8km (or miles I can't remember which) of normal performance/running then it'll die dead, no splutter or stutter just straight dead.
Once that happens it won't start, it just keeps tuning over but won't come to life, that is until I let it sit for around 10-20mins then I can start it like nothing ever happened & repeat the whole process.

[vifferman]

http://homepages.vodafone.co.nz/~cam4/Viffer004.jpg

http://homepages.vodafone.co.nz/~cam4/Viffer2.jpg

[willytheekid]

Not quite randomly, it fails at repeatable intervals.
Once warmed (not sure if this is a requirement) I'll get around 8km (or miles I can't remember which) of normal performance/running then it'll die dead, no splutter or stutter just straight dead.
Once that happens it won't start, it just keeps tuning over but won't come to life, that is until I let it sit for around 10-20mins then I can start it like nothing ever happened & repeat the whole process.

Bugger...that sounds like a possible fuel pump fail mate. (def look at the fuel supply)

Could be effecting the flow rate to the carbs..same thing will happen if you run it as a gravity feed system...it works on a VFR for the first 3/4 tank...then theres not enough pressure and the carbs starve....just as you described

(Another thing to check ;)...on those carbs (well..my 96 750 anyway) there are wee breather tube's going to a small secondary filter...clean it!(best bet is to replace it), trust me!!...that little bugger is "mean't" to be cleaned at every service...and yet no-one ever does it...if that little bugger is blocked, or more than likely completely disintergrated!, it can actually block the air flow tube so the carb slides cannot function properly, it can cause some annoying fueling problems for such a wee filter)

you could try hooking up a direct gravity feed to carbs (Just don't forget to fill the tank right up!) that way you can either confirm or eliminate the fuel pump as the problem :D

[Erelyes]

(blue 01 RC46)

Nice bike!

Where did you get the clear front indicator lenses?

What sort of exhaust has it got (pic?)

And two questions for the viffer gurus -
How do you find them commuting / filtering?
Anyone fitted mirrors with integrated indicators (ala Gixxer) to their 98-01 vintage RC46?

[Swoop]

Not quite randomly, it fails at repeatable intervals.
Once warmed (not sure if this is a requirement) I'll get around 8km (or miles I can't remember which) of normal performance/running then it'll die dead, no splutter or stutter just straight dead.
Once that happens it won't start, it just keeps tuning over but won't come to life, that is until I let it sit for around 10-20mins then I can start it like nothing ever happened & repeat the whole process.

OK. It's an electrical issue.
On the crankshaft there are two sensors that tell the computer when to fire the sparkplugs. One of these will be your problem. Take it to a good auto electrician and give them a wiring diagram and point their nose into that region of the problem. They should get it sorted quickly if they know where to look.

[Swoop]

And two questions for the viffer gurus -
How do you find them commuting / filtering?
Absolutely superb!
If you are confident of not tapping anything with your elbows, then the bike will fit through easily. Deceptively narrow.

The worst thing will be the models with the reg/rec hidden away in an area where they can get even hotter than normal.

[Scuba_Steve]

Bugger...that sounds like a possible fuel pump fail mate. (def look at the fuel supply)

Could be effecting the flow rate to the carbs..same thing will happen if you run it as a gravity feed system...it works on a VFR for the first 3/4 tank...then theres not enough pressure and the carbs starve....just as you described

(Another thing to check ;)...on those carbs (well..my 96 750 anyway) there are wee breather tube's going to a small secondary filter...clean it!(best bet is to replace it), trust me!!...that little bugger is "mean't" to be cleaned at every service...and yet no-one ever does it...if that little bugger is blocked, or more than likely completely disintergrated!, it can actually block the air flow tube so the carb slides cannot function properly, it can cause some annoying fueling problems for such a wee filter)

you could try hooking up a direct gravity feed to carbs (Just don't forget to fill the tank right up!) that way you can either confirm or eliminate the fuel pump as the problem :D

I'm not sure I have that filter? I haven't seen anything that resembles one anyways
Not a bad suggestion there about trying gravity I'll give it ago



OK. It's an electrical issue.
On the crankshaft there are two sensors that tell the computer when to fire the sparkplugs. One of these will be your problem. Take it to a good auto electrician and give them a wiring diagram and point their nose into that region of the problem. They should get it sorted quickly if they know where to look.

I would have thought an electrical prob such as that would cause the bike to run rough before it died?

[willytheekid]

OK. It's an electrical issue.
On the crankshaft there are two sensors that tell the computer when to fire the sparkplugs. One of these will be your problem. Take it to a good auto electrician and give them a wiring diagram and point their nose into that region of the problem. They should get it sorted quickly if they know where to look.

Good point Swoop! :yes:

agree the pick-up/pulse generators are also high on the list of possible culprits. (chocy fish for you sir)

[Swoop]

the pick-up/pulse generators are also high on the list of possible culprits.
They are the list.

Hopefully there are replacement parts still available somewhere.

[vifferman]

Nice bike!
Thanx!

Where did you get the clear front indicator lenses?
From teh interwebs: Thurn Motorsports, Germany.

What sort of exhaust has it got (pic?)
See pic up the page a bit (post #2818) - Staintune (Australia), or as I call it, "Satantune"

And two questions for the viffer gurus -
How do you find them commuting / filtering?
Anyone fitted mirrors with integrated indicators (ala Gixxer) to their 98-01 vintage RC46?
It's excellent for lane-splitting, as it's deceptively narrow; and if when you're sizing up a gap, it looks slightly wider than the mirrors, you'll fit.
Thurn do some mirrors with indicators, but I've heard some bad things about quality. There are some VFR owners who've modified GSXR ones to fit; I think a different mount needs to be fabricated.
And unfortunately, I don't think the VFR1200 ones fit the 800, and I'm not sure about the very latest VFR800 (just released!) - its mirrors have indicators in them, but I don't know if they'll fit either.
And it's a nice looking bike, with a new single-sided swingarm at last, (but the same heavy hub). Shame it's got camchains and VTEC... yet another incentive to keep my 2001....

[Icemaestro]

Do any nc30/35 owners have a spare set of new or lightly used/known to be good carb rubber adapters?I suspect my ebay ones may be part of the cause of my carb troubles, but a new set seems to be at least 42 pounds or so (havent heard back from Rick O yet).

My NC30 carbs are driving me nuts - all seals etc have been replaced inside the carbs, I've cleaned them out with carb cleaner (though next job will be to go through with toothbrush), and carbs synced. However 1) choke doesn't seem to do a thing, can be very difficult to start from cold, 2) poor idle when either cold or warm, 3) slow to return to idle when rev'd when warm, 4) Crap power from idle to 7000RPM (over 7k is fine) I have also noticed that when I pull the choke in when riding above about 60km, my revs stay at about 2500 when stopped they settle to 1500. In particular I think the main problem is with the back right cylinder which is cold/warm (not hot) at idle, but warms up when rev'd.

I am running 115F/118R main jets (which I think are fine, though could probably increase) yamamoto half system and everything stock, including new air filter and plugs. As said earlier the carb to manifold adapters were the 30$USD ones from Ebay...they looked fine though?

My thoughts are that I need to replace the carb rubbers, open them up and clean out the pilot jets with toothbrush/wire, check/set float heights and check/replace the needles.

Anyone have any thoughts or good/cheap ideas?:-P.

[sil3nt]

Did you buy that paddock stand off trademe? :mad: :bleh:

Sorry can't help with your problem :(

[Icemaestro]

haha Yessir I did!"-) Gotta be quick around here! I'm secretly hopeful I might be able to make something that goes on the other side of it to work with my other bike too, as there appears to be a small square bit like there was originally an adapter plate or something.

[HenryDorsetCase]

Do any nc30/35 owners have a spare set of new or lightly used/known to be good carb rubber adapters?I suspect my ebay ones may be part of the cause of my carb troubles, but a new set seems to be at least 42 pounds or so (havent heard back from Rick O yet).

My NC30 carbs are driving me nuts - all seals etc have been replaced inside the carbs, I've cleaned them out with carb cleaner (though next job will be to go through with toothbrush), and carbs synced. However 1) choke doesn't seem to do a thing, can be very difficult to start from cold, 2) poor idle when either cold or warm, 3) slow to return to idle when rev'd when warm, 4) Crap power from idle to 7000RPM (over 7k is fine) I have also noticed that when I pull the choke in when riding above about 60km, my revs stay at about 2500 when stopped they settle to 1500. In particular I think the main problem is with the back right cylinder which is cold/warm (not hot) at idle, but warms up when rev'd.

I am running 115F/118R main jets (which I think are fine, though could probably increase) yamamoto half system and everything stock, including new air filter and plugs. As said earlier the carb to manifold adapters were the 30$USD ones from Ebay...they looked fine though?

My thoughts are that I need to replace the carb rubbers, open them up and clean out the pilot jets with toothbrush/wire, check/set float heights and check/replace the needles.

Anyone have any thoughts or good/cheap ideas?:-P.

I have read (though not done it myself) that the trick is to get the thing running then spray WD40 onto the carb rubbers when engine is running. You would do each one sequentially not all four together. If white smoke appears then that carb boot is sucking air in because it has also sucked in WD40.

Basically you could suck it and see right?: five minutes before you commence your stripdown. The idea I guess is that it is a complete PITA to get anywhere near an NC30's carbs particularly with the airbox in place. Like i say I have not tried it but am interested to see if it works.

[Icemaestro]

I did try that last time I had the carbs off (well, before I took them off) - tried bth wd40 and carb cleaner, with no change in idle, though as said I suspect one cylinder intermittently fires at idle, so perhaps it just doesn't pick it up?

[Cam_Valk]

Did you buy that paddock stand off trademe? :mad: :bleh:

Sorry can't help with your problem :(

Goddamnit, i wanted that stand as well.
Was wondering where that auction went.

[Icemaestro]

Goddamnit, i wanted that stand as well.
Was wondering where that auction went.

Swap a vfr and the stand for your rvf? :shifty:

[sil3nt]

I didnt really need the stand as I have an ABBA stand but it could have been useful to have around.

[Icemaestro]

Oh, was it you I sold my Abba stand to back in 2011 or so? Good stand, though I always took 5 minutes just to get it on right :confused:

[sil3nt]

Oh, was it you I sold my Abba stand to back in 2011 or so? Good stand, though I always took 5 minutes just to get it on right :confused:Nah I got mine brand new a few months ago.

[Icemaestro]

My mistake. Is it everything you dreamed it would be?Can/do you use it on other double swingarm bikes?

[HenryDorsetCase]

Oh, was it you I sold my Abba stand to back in 2011 or so? Good stand, though I always took 5 minutes just to get it on right :confused:

I have one I bought on tardme but I think not from you because I had to then buy the specific kit to fit the NC30.

[Icemaestro]

I sold mine to someone on here not via trademe. Who knows where it is now! I did see my old vfr for sale down in CHCH about 6-9 months ago I believe, I wonder if the HRC CDI is still with it...kick myself now for not selling that off separately (or keeping it!)

[sil3nt]

My mistake. Is it everything you dreamed it would be?Can/do you use it on other double swingarm bikes?You can use it on any bike. You just need different adapters for different bikes.

[Scuba_Steve]

OK so today I ran the bike until it died then opened the carb drains & got decent amount of fuel running out, I'm told this should rule out it being the pump or the relay? (Please correct if info is wrong)
So I guess it's checking those firing sensors next? Tho I still would have thought if they were the prob the bike should run rough or stutter to death

[Vinz0r]

Hello!
I have just recently sold my 05 ZX6R, and I'm thinking about an NC30 as my next bike. Just wondering if anyone knows of any well maintained, lowish KM's bikes for sale at the moment. I'm not too worried if they need a bit of a tidy up cosmetically, as long as they have a good mechanical history.

Cheers.

Edit: Also interested in what common issues are with this bike; anything in particular I should be looking out for when inspecting?

[Icemaestro]

A guy recently asked in the wanted section for exactly the same and got what appears to be a minter...maybe luck will strike twice? Mine is very much not a minter, though I would have sold it if I'd managed to get the RVF that was up for less than 12 hours before it was withdrawn :-|

Things to check - Regulator/rectifier plug (LHS rear/Tail) and that the bike is charging well as this is their biggest weak spot - rr goes, battery goes, burning out electrics etc. Next would be bodywork - I would go for one with OEM panels - they are hard to come by otherwise and everything else doesn't fit amazing. You can check the chain adjuster teeth if you want - common practice to use a screwdriver and hammer to adjust rather than the proper tool. The only other thing I would check if I had the time would be that it still has the vacuum into the right side of the petcock (some people get rid of it and modify the fuel tap to run without vacuum, can lead to hydro locking the engine if it gets past the valve), and that the airbox/snorkel and flaps haven't been messed with, as they can be rather finicky with their air/fuel/carbs set up.

other than that the usual forks, tyres, chain sprockets air filter plugs service items. bear in mind that many if not the majority of these have had a crash or lay down at some point:-P.

[sil3nt]

Thought I would give the brakes a good overhaul...can't even get the pad pins out :brick:

[Icemaestro]

why not? That's also on my to do list next weekend - haven't changed pads on these since the last bike...stripped screw or just really stuck??brake cleaner it up?

[sil3nt]

why not? That's also on my to do list next weekend - haven't changed pads on these since the last bike...stripped screw or just really stuck??brake cleaner it up?They seem to be seized in there. I haven't touched the brakes since I got the bike. The pads are down to 2mm so the plan was to pull the calipers apart, clean everything up, replace seals and if needed the pistons also and rebuild the master cylinder. Will ride the bike in to the mechanics tomorrow and see if they can loosen the pins for me.

[sil3nt]

I will also be placing an order from Rick Oliver (once I figure out if I need new pistons or not) so if you need anything it could be cheaper to get it all at once.

[Icemaestro]

he hasn't replied to my last two emails :-P went and got carb rubber adapters from david silver spares instead (slightly cheaper anyway, and got RVF ones as apparently they fit and make it a million times easier to get carbs on and off). what are you looking at ordering?

[Vinz0r]

A guy recently asked in the wanted section for exactly the same and got what appears to be a minter...maybe luck will strike twice? Mine is very much not a minter, though I would have sold it if I'd managed to get the RVF that was up for less than 12 hours before it was withdrawn :-|

Things to check - Regulator/rectifier plug (LHS rear/Tail) and that the bike is charging well as this is their biggest weak spot - rr goes, battery goes, burning out electrics etc. Next would be bodywork - I would go for one with OEM panels - they are hard to come by otherwise and everything else doesn't fit amazing. You can check the chain adjuster teeth if you want - common practice to use a screwdriver and hammer to adjust rather than the proper tool. The only other thing I would check if I had the time would be that it still has the vacuum into the right side of the petcock (some people get rid of it and modify the fuel tap to run without vacuum, can lead to hydro locking the engine if it gets past the valve), and that the airbox/snorkel and flaps haven't been messed with, as they can be rather finicky with their air/fuel/carbs set up.

other than that the usual forks, tyres, chain sprockets air filter plugs service items. bear in mind that many if not the majority of these have had a crash or lay down at some point:-P.

Cheers for that Icemaestro, I have made a thread in online trading, not looking to spend quite as much as him, but not expecting a minter either haha.
Also, my friend KC just bought your bmw haha, I was going to ride it down to Hamilton for her, but had to be in Wellington this weekend.

[Icemaestro]

Sweet, would have been a good ride - been down as far as papakura and glenbrook a number of times on it. spent far to much on the bike but deciding between a Beemer and an nc30...no contest really!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[HenryDorsetCase]

he hasn't replied to my last two emails :-P went and got carb rubber adapters from david silver spares instead (slightly cheaper anyway, and got RVF ones as apparently they fit and make it a million times easier to get carbs on and off). what are you looking at ordering?

I'm interested in your experience with that because the carbs are a complete ARSE to get on and off mine.

[Icemaestro]

I believe it is a common sentiment :-p at one point (with so much practice) I was able to get them on and off in 30 minutes :-p clearly out of practice.

I went this was as the folks on 400gb swore by it, they have little lips on them to take the place of having two flathead screwdrivers levering, 4 hands and 30 minutes of swearing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Vinz0r]

I have been looking at this NC30 on trademe: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=735008863

Does anybody have any idea about the history of this bike? KM's are pretty darn low, but the owner hasn't had it for very long and doesn't know if it's been rejetted for the exhaust, or when the valve clearancess were last done, which is a bit of a worry.

[Glowerss]

I have been looking at this NC30 on trademe: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=735008863

Does anybody have any idea about the history of this bike? KM's are pretty darn low, but the owner hasn't had it for very long and doesn't know if it's been rejetted for the exhaust, or when the valve clearancess were last done, which is a bit of a worry.

While not looked at it personally, that one has been on TM for ages and ages and ages. Like a year or more, which doesn't bode well to me. It might just be that farkin ridiculous tail on it though. Why you would do such a thing, I'll never know :brick:. Only thing I can think of is it's been crashed, and the tail was a cheap replacement to a proper set of fairings and such.

[ecko_nzed]

I have been looking at this NC30 on trademe: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=735008863

Does anybody have any idea about the history of this bike? KM's are pretty darn low, but the owner hasn't had it for very long and doesn't know if it's been rejetted for the exhaust, or when the valve clearancess were last done, which is a bit of a worry.

Go eyeball the bike, take it for a ride, if it runs like a bag of shit, it probably hasn't been jetted, or had the valve clearances done. If that is the case, offer a price you are comfortable with.

[sil3nt]

Left my Haynes manual in the garage....right under a leak in the roof. Half the pages are soaked now :facepalm:

Hopefully it dries out ok. I really don't want to buy a new one.

[Icemaestro]

Bugger! I'm sure it wouldn't be too much effort to photo pages you don't have and send them through :-)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[sil3nt]

Mrs is on it with the hair dryer. Looks like it might come out ok. Same can't be said for the brake pad pins. They just aren't budging. Will have to remove them and ask the local Honda shop to disassemble the calipers. Was hoping I might be able to do something by myself for once :rolleyes:

[Icemaestro]

how do they come out? you worried about stripping the head? I can't remember what head is on them...it's your wallet, I usually take things to the place I get all my wof's done - 5$ for their time and presto :-)

[sil3nt]

It is actually the plug for the brake pad pin that is seized. It looks like this http://www.valkyrieparts.de/WebRoot/Store18/Shops/63631381/4FDE/3227/C25A/49CE/BBF7/C0A8/28BC/B8D3/02.195.jpg

[Icemaestro]

Take it off and impact driver? Assume you've crc'd it, tried heating the surround? Would have thought flat head would be sweet?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[sil3nt]

Take it off and impact driver? Assume you've crc'd it, tried heating the surround? Would have thought flat head would be sweet?


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkNeed to buy an impact driver. You would think flat head would be sweet but apparently it is quite common for these things to seize up. Got nothing to heat the caliper.

[sil3nt]

Got an impact driver. No luck. Just nothing to really grab onto with the groove being so shallow and wide.

[Icemaestro]

is it just coming out of the space? you're using the widest flathead possible, but still narrow enough to fit in the slot? is it destroying the head, or what is happening?

[sil3nt]

metal is soft and strips off causing the flat head to slip out. The head isn't quite destroyed so I will take it in before I do destroy it.

[Vinz0r]

Gary from GP wreckers is parting a rough as guts NC30.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/wrecking-bikes/auction-740637543.htm

[sil3nt]

I think I pissed him off by asking too many questions in an email :lol:

[Icemaestro]

Haha...well if they weren't stupid questions!:-) that was the bike that was on trademe a few months ago, sold for between 3 an 500 from memory half dosmantled


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[sil3nt]

Haha...well if they weren't stupid questions!:-) that was the bike that was on trademe a few months ago, sold for between 3 an 500 from memory half dosmantled


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkSold for about $1600 i believe.

I always ask stupid questions :bleh:

[Icemaestro]

3 hours later in the shed. 1) I still hate working on the vfr...hurts my back :-p. 2) don't ever ever ever buy pattern carb rubbers off eBay..split already, partly the cause of my symptoms. 3) choke only works with cable at the end of its pull - explains why my choke hadn't been working well, I'd thought it was getting stuck open so had adjusted it closer. 4) rvf carb rubber adapters for the win...I still used the double flathead screwdrivers but literally just to sit them on too, remove screwdrivers and push down. Getting them on again took 5min to attach and adjust cables (I hate throttle cables), and 30 seconds to seat them, another couple min to do them up.

So all in all, in 3h I just changed my plugs, drained, cleaned and filled tank, removed, cleaned carbs and jets, replaced carb rubbers, and fitted my plastic painted tank cover (doesn't look bad, will take a photo in the light). Success! Has power from idle and starts like a dream!

Next up brake clean and replace seals, change oil and filter and clean and adjust chain. Then buy an rvf ;-). I've also been considering sv650 clipons to raise the position a fraction..anyone else done that? There is a guy on 400gb who has, said they just fit without any new cables, just have to drill the locating hole in them for the nc30 throttle/switchgear..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Icemaestro]

Oh, and fit the rear tyre I've had for. 6 months now!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Icemaestro]

Sold for about $1600 i believe.

I always ask stupid questions :bleh:

My bad, thought it went real cheap, but just more than my 1$ bid haha. The one from turners (same guy I bought stand etx from) went for a ridiculous price like that, with fuel leaks, mashed rad and front pipes, broken forks and rim!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Icemaestro]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/12/qanudu8u.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/12/agare6u7.jpg photo of the new tank cover, old carb rubber. New one looks like this http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/12/9u2a6y6y.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[sil3nt]

Nice tank cover. Where did you get it from?

I refuse to deal with carbs.

[Icemaestro]

Isn't it part and parcel with owning an nc30? A Chinese outfit via japamart with my final quarter panel to finish the set :-). Tried to get it delivered straight here but no answer, so went via Japan, but still only cost 215nz for the cover and the panel delivered. Was going to cost 400 to get the tank painted :-|. And this way I still have std colours underneath :-)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[HenryDorsetCase]

3 hours later in the shed. 1) I still hate working on the vfr...hurts my back :-p. 2) don't ever ever ever buy pattern carb rubbers off eBay..split already, partly the cause of my symptoms. 3) choke only works with cable at the end of its pull - explains why my choke hadn't been working well, I'd thought it was getting stuck open so had adjusted it closer. 4) rvf carb rubber adapters for the win...I still used the double flathead screwdrivers but literally just to sit them on too, remove screwdrivers and push down. Getting them on again took 5min to attach and adjust cables (I hate throttle cables), and 30 seconds to seat them, another couple min to do them up.

So all in all, in 3h I just changed my plugs, drained, cleaned and filled tank, removed, cleaned carbs and jets, replaced carb rubbers, and fitted my plastic painted tank cover (doesn't look bad, will take a photo in the light). Success! Has power from idle and starts like a dream!

Next up brake clean and replace seals, change oil and filter and clean and adjust chain. Then buy an rvf ;-). I've also been considering sv650 clipons to raise the position a fraction..anyone else done that? There is a guy on 400gb who has, said they just fit without any new cables, just have to drill the locating hole in them for the nc30 throttle/switchgear..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am keen on those RVF carb rubbers. David Silver?

I always file the tab off the inside of the switchgear rather than drill the bar because: I always manage to drill the motherfucking hole in the wrong motherfucking place, and I reckon drilling a hole in the bar can't be good for it strenght wise. Plus did I mention drilling in the wrong place.

I use a piece of bicycle inner tube as a shim and they dont move. Did it to my Hornet and my SV650.

[Icemaestro]

I am keen on those RVF carb rubbers. David Silver?

I always file the tab off the inside of the switchgear rather than drill the bar because: I always manage to drill the motherfucking hole in the wrong motherfucking place, and I reckon drilling a hole in the bar can't be good for it strenght wise. Plus did I mention drilling in the wrong place.

I use a piece of bicycle inner tube as a shim and they dont move. Did it to my Hornet and my SV650.

Do it, yup David silver, here in 4 days, we're cheaper than every other site, and cheaper than nc30 ones, figure that out.

So have you done the sv650 bar thing?

Did I read right you are looking at selling the vfr ?:-(


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Vinz0r]

Did I read right you are looking at selling the vfr ?:-(




Oh really? :whistle:

[HenryDorsetCase]

Did I read right you are looking at selling the vfr ?:-(


Actually yes. I am going to go pick it up from the storage unit this weekend and see if I fall in love with it again. It seems unlikely. I also am going to be sorting then advertising a small shed load of VFR "bits". I will start them here and what does not go will go on tardme at $1 reserve.

I am adopting a zenlike approach to life.

[sil3nt]

Actually yes. I am going to go pick it up from the storage unit this weekend and see if I fall in love with it again. It seems unlikely. I also am going to be sorting then advertising a small shed load of VFR "bits". I will start them here and what does not go will go on tardme at $1 reserve.

I am adopting a zenlike approach to life.Road or track bike?

[HenryDorsetCase]

Oh really? :whistle:

Its a trackbike. Having said that I have a complete* road registered rolling chassis with rego on hold including some plastics and whatnot and a very good fuel tank.

*I think. certainly the major bits: frame, triples, swingarm, forks and front rim. No back wheel but the one on the track bike is the 17 inch RVF one.

I honestly could not believe how much crap I had down the storage unit. I'd forgotten.

[Icemaestro]

Aww. What's put you off it you reckon? I know I went away due to comfort, running costs for increased use, but coming back to one now I reckon I'll keep an nc30 or 35 ( if I can get one!) for the foreseeable future both nostalgia and individuality, as well as ability for it to be a great bike for track days


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Icemaestro]

Also, does anyone have a spare set of main jets - 2x 120 and 2x122's? Also maybe the little .5 or 1mm washers for the needles?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[willytheekid]

Actually yes. I am going to go pick it up from the storage unit this weekend and see if I fall in love with it again. It seems unlikely. I also am going to be sorting then advertising a small shed load of VFR "bits". I will start them here and what does not go will go on tardme at $1 reserve.

I am adopting a zenlike approach to life.

Still keen as on a left front footpeg if you have one thanks Henry :2thumbsup
...But im secretly hoping once the door goes up, the wee V4 starts ya heart again...you know you'll miss it :weep:

(might be keen on the swingarm too...well, the Hub unit anyway ;)...for a real wheel swap project on the Infidel)

[sil3nt]

Its a trackbike. Having said that I have a complete* road registered rolling chassis with rego on hold including some plastics and whatnot and a very good fuel tank.

*I think. certainly the major bits: frame, triples, swingarm, forks and front rim. No back wheel but the one on the track bike is the 17 inch RVF one.

I honestly could not believe how much crap I had down the storage unit. I'd forgotten.Let me know how much you want for everything ;)

[HenryDorsetCase]

Aww. What's put you off it you reckon? I know I went away due to comfort, running costs for increased use, but coming back to one now I reckon I'll keep an nc30 or 35 ( if I can get one!) for the foreseeable future both nostalgia and individuality, as well as ability for it to be a great bike for track days


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

great bike but having the coins tied up in something I use twice a year isnt sensible. Plus I am on the "old bike" thing again. Want another classic. But not one I have to restore this time. I have the horn big time for Kawasaki W650's and Honda 350's and Nortons and Bonnies again (its a vertical twin thing) and scrambler/tracker styles

[HenryDorsetCase]

Still keen as on a left front footpeg if you have one thanks Henry :2thumbsup
...But im secretly hoping once the door goes up, the wee V4 starts ya heart again...you know you'll miss it :weep:

(might be keen on the swingarm too...well, the Hub unit anyway ;)...for a real wheel swap project on the Infidel)

Yep, I will have a hunt through the fish bins. I am pretty sure that somewhere there are stock footpegs. somewhere. I will start the bike this weekend too and maybe take it for a wee spin just to keep it running.

[willytheekid]

Yep, I will have a hunt through the fish bins. I am pretty sure that somewhere there are stock footpegs. somewhere. I will start the bike this weekend too and maybe take it for a wee spin just to keep it running**.

Thanks so much henry :D
...its been a nightmare finding a secondhand peg for the Infidel

**Gimmie a yell if your going out for a wee ride on Sunday, will join ya (sat is my wee girl Winters 2nd B-day...Im eating cake and spoiling her rotten lol)

-Willy

[vifferman]

I tried to turn this into a VFR thread and not just a VFR400 thread by posting some of my boring VFR800 shit and photos, but it's a hopeless case. :yawn:
Oh and no-one tried to help me out with my passed-on question from Muzza's friend in Orstrylya about VFR400 models and their tanks.

I give up. :( :crazy:
I'll bugger off again then. :eek5:

[Erelyes]

I tried to turn this into a VFR thread and not just a VFR400 thread by posting some of my boring VFR800 shit and photos, but it's a hopeless case. :yawn:
Oh and no-one tried to help me out with my passed-on question from Muzza's friend in Orstrylya about VFR400 models and their tanks.

I give up. :( :crazy:
I'll bugger off again then. :eek5:

Guess there's just not as much to fix on a VFR800 as there is on a VFR400 eh...

[sil3nt]

Oh and no-one tried to help me out with my passed-on question from Muzza's friend in Orstrylya about VFR400 models and their tanks.
The rider was the problem not the bike...

[Icemaestro]

/country. Nah there haven't been many 800 riders on here at least in the last few years I've been in this thread, and the 800s are a different kettle of fish, no cam driven gears....I don't understand what honda were thinking! They even had automatic valve clearance adjusting with the Bol dor, surely those two things plus or minus a gear or chain drive and you would have an amazing motorcycle with minimum service requirements...anyway, as you were!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Icemaestro]

I tried to turn this into a VFR thread and not just a VFR400 thread by posting some of my boring VFR800 shit and photos, but it's a hopeless case. :yawn:
Oh and no-one tried to help me out with my passed-on question from Muzza's friend in Orstrylya about VFR400 models and their tanks.

I give up. :( :crazy:
I'll bugger off again then. :eek5:

A couple of people did reply re your Ozzie friend hanging off the tank. We aren't a racing group however so I can't speak for everyone else but that is not my forte :-) and so can't comment.

Now cleverchaps vfr :-) ...bit of art there! I don't even know if it's a 400 but it looks awesome purely for the fact it is so different.

(And anything with a single sided swingarm is awesome.... Including my wife's an125 which has done 40000 km with oil, filters, pads and tyre changes.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[badlieutenant]

your 800 is to modern for me vifferman :D Im still rocking the original, the one and only (except for the numerous variations) 86 rc29 :D altho looking at selling it. Ive had mine since 96 ? 95 ? something like that. It just sounds awesome. But the dr is soo sooo soooo much cheaper to run with range as well. And, surprisingly, the dr feels quicker to 120-130 (then the vfr just streaks away).
but with 800s in mind (vtec models i think ?) check this out (altho Im sure you have seen it before) :banana: (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nPcFBgnSE7o) <<

[Swoop]

... and the 800s are a different kettle of fish, no cam driven gears....I don't understand what honda were thinking!
A Honda mechanic I know, says that of all the VFR 800 valve clearances (25k) he has done, none needed playing with. Rather anti-climactic. Perhaps the chains are making a return *shudder*. :sweatdrop

[Icemaestro]

A Honda mechanic I know, says that of all the VFR 800 valve clearances (25k) he has done, none needed playing with. Rather anti-climactic. Perhaps the chains are making a return *shudder*. :sweatdrop

you'll have to enlighten me - I am not an engineer and don't understand much of what goes on inside the engine - what to the valve clearances have to do with the cam vs gear driven cams arrangement? the Bol dor had adjustable valves :-D we could have those and gear driven cams and the world would be perfect!

[badlieutenant]

Ive had a few looks inside my engine. Gear driven cams are pretty darn cool to look at but no way did I want to start pulling them apart :/
I thought the cam chains were a lot more reliable these days ? they would certainly be lighter than gears. Maybe the engineers were thinking along the lines of " keep it simple stupid" ? :D
(edit my vfr is a rc24 :D )

[Swoop]

what to the valve clearances have to do with the cam vs gear driven cams arrangement? the Bol dor had adjustable valves :-D we could have those and gear driven cams and the world would be perfect!
Nothing really. The valves do their thing, being spun around by the camshafts, etc. The reliability of the Honda engineering is the point.
I still prefer cams though! (just for the sounds!):blip:

[Glowerss]

/country. Nah there haven't been many 800 riders on here at least in the last few years I've been in this thread, and the 800s are a different kettle of fish, no cam driven gears....I don't understand what honda were thinking! They even had automatic valve clearance adjusting with the Bol dor, surely those two things plus or minus a gear or chain drive and you would have an amazing motorcycle with minimum service requirements...anyway, as you were!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My VFR 800 has gear driven cams and none of that v-tec rubbish, more than one kind of VFR 800 you know! :dodge:

[Icemaestro]

Yes haha I was aware of the first gen keeping the gears but since then...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[vifferman]

A Honda mechanic I know, says that of all the VFR 800 valve clearances (25k) he has done, none needed playing with. Rather anti-climactic. Perhaps the chains are making a return *shudder*. :sweatdrop
My VFR800 is now 13 years old, and I've had it for 10 of those, and the valve clearances have never been feedled with in that time. Checked a couple of years back, and still in spec. Now sitting on around 100,000 km.
I've had 7 other Hondas: only two (2!) didn't have noisy camchains: one (90 VFR750) had gear-driven cams, the other was a 2-smoke. One (VTR1000) had had a tensioner let go (almost always the front one, as it doesn't get any oiling) and lunched the cyliner and valves. Luckily, it was the previous owner.:lol: One of the first things I did was fit APE manual tensioners...

Honda are shit at camchain tensioners - they should give up (like their tensioners...)

The 3rd and 4th Gen VFR750's are the best: not too whiney, and you can flip the cams over and turn them into a twin-twingle, with no other mods required (sparkplugs fire every stroke). No such luck with the RC46; it's based on the RC45 and has the geardrive at the right-hand end of the camshafts, which is why it's so fecking noisy. And why they did away with it, because the cakemixer racket it makes is very hard to pass Euro noise regs with (i.e., IMPOSSIBLY loud). Took me 18 months to get used to the farkin' whining. No problem now - I always ride with earplugs in and music streaming from the phone via the Sena, so the cakemixer's just background noise (and somewhat drowned out by the Satantune anyway).

[HenryDorsetCase]

Honda are shit at camchain tensioners - they should give up (like their tensioners...)

The 3rd and 4th Gen VFR750's are the best: not too whiney, and you can flip the cams over and turn them into a twin-twingle, .

agreed re camchain tensioners: the one on a CB400F is a known failure point too and it drops metal shavings into the oil just near the crank.....

Now I want a VFR750 made into twin twingle.

[willytheekid]

flip the cams over to make A twin twingle?:confused: (I understand what u mean...but, is it actually possible?)


ps +1 ...3 & 4th gens the best in the VFR range, but I maybe slightly biased lol

[Icemaestro]

Don't even get me started on a cbr600 range of cam chain tensioner failures...replaced with ape manual ones also, easy as anything..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[vifferman]

flip the cams over to make A twin twingle?:confused: (I understand what u mean...but, is it actually possible?)
ps +1 ...3 & 4th gens the best in the VFR range, but I maybe slightly biased lol
Yes, it is possible, and has been done. I searched high'n'low for the original VFR forum posts about this, but although I found references to them, the originals have been archived. It started off as just a "Hey - these camshafts are symmetrical; I wonder if they can be flipped?!?" kind of idea, then the guy who tried it discovered that yes, they could be flipped, and that it made no real difference to the power or running (apart from changing the sound and feel). To be honest, I can't remember if it was a third generation or fourth gen engine that the 'trial' was conducted on, and I have a suspicion it works on both. I also don't recall if both front and rear cams were flipped (I suspect they were). I *do* remember that the outcome was to create a V4 that was effectively like a double v-twin.
As for your assertion that the 3rd/4th Gen VFRs are the best, I'd agree in some ways. Their wheels are prettier (many 5th and 6th gen owners have put the 8-spoke rear wheels of the earlier bikes on). Also, there are much fewer electrical 'doodads' to cark it than on the EFI'd 5th/6th gen bikes. However, having had both a 91 and '01 VFR, the '01 is definitely superior, apart from the camgear whine, rear wheel, and linked brakes. The latter does have 'some' advantages, like when braking on greasy roads or gravel, but otherwise is a dumb idea probably intended for dumb people who hit the rear brake when panic-braking.
As with any bike, many of the deficiencies can be fixed or improved. Pity Honda still can't get the swingarm light and pretty like its competitors have managed to... It adds quite bit of unsprung weight to the back end, which even spending $1500 like I have doesn't entirely improve, as the "thump-bump" is still there....

[HenryDorsetCase]

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/classic-vintage/auction-744699634.htm

or

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=743806773

[sil3nt]

I would take the ZXR. Always loved the look of the old ZXRs.

[ecko_nzed]

Pity Honda still can't get the swingarm light and pretty like its competitors have managed to... It adds quite bit of unsprung weight to the back end, which even spending $1500 like I have doesn't entirely improve, as the "thump-bump" is still there....

What did you spend the $1500 on?

[vifferman]

What did you spend the $1500 on?
HRRrrmmmm... um... There was a group buy on Elka rear shocks on the VFRDiscussion website, so I jumped on that, as it was only around $750 or somesuch. Maybe a few shekels more. However (but!) Elka in Canadia insisted on sending it first class courier with Track'n'Trace, which cost me another $250 for freight and insurance, so it was around $1000 landed. At the time, Robert Taylor was selling an Ohlins for around $1250 fitted so I thought, "Bonus! $250 to spend on the front end!":clap:
The Elka was HEAPS better than the Showa, and the Sonic Springs fork springs improved the front end. However (but!) I decided it wasn't good enough, and didn't match the improved rear end so eventually sent the forks off to CKT for fettling: new seals, oil, dampers, checking for concentricity and straightness, etc.
When they came back, they were markedly better, except at around 70-90 km/h on crappy roads, when my arms got a major workout. It turned out the spring rate calculator Sonic used was stolen from Racetech, and erred on the side of stiffness. So... back went the forks to CKT, and got new oil, lighter Ohlins springs, and reworked damping to match. OOODLINGS better.
But... after a while, I decided I was doing myself a disservice not having the rear shock properly set up, so the wife organised a RoadTrip for us, and I went to visit Dr Bob. He removed all the innards of the Elka, which was the same diameter as an Ohlins, and replaced it with the appropriate Ohlins stack and other bits. The spring surprisingly turned out to be of good quality and spot-on for springiness.
So, all that cost me a bit over $400, so the total cost for the rear was around $1500. So only $250 more than just buying an Ohlins from him in the first place....:crazy: Can't remember the total fork overhaul and re-overhaul cost, but IIRC, it was probably getting up to $1500 or so too.

So: Do it ONCE, and DO IT RIGHT! And save money, time, and frustration....:wacko:

But like I said, even with the world's bestest bits, the VFR800's rear hub, caliper, wheel, swingarm, etc. is no lightweight, so it's never going to feel as good as a more sensibly-designed rear end....

[HenryDorsetCase]

It is sensibly designed. For endurance racing....... :-)

[Icemaestro]

Designed to be able to take the rear wheel off quickly and easily!:-)and to look amazing. What do the Ducati swingarms weigh?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[sil3nt]

Finally got the bike into the mechanics this morning. Asked for EBC brake pads but they reckon Premier are exactly the same (same company) but cheaper <_<

They had them in stock so went for them. They better not be shit.

[Icemaestro]

Lol. Only time I notice a difference is sintered and non sintered. Mind you the seals still need changing on my brakes...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[sil3nt]

Lol. Only time I notice a difference is sintered and non sintered. Mind you the seals still need changing on my brakes...


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI will be rebuilding the calipers and master cylinder soon. Knowing my luck and mechanical incompetence it will end in another trip to the mechanics :rolleyes:

[sil3nt]

Good news! The mechanics had trouble with the bloody brake pad pin plugs as well. They had to destroy them to get them out. New ones arriving tomorrow.

[Icemaestro]

You have an interesting sense of good news. I guess makes you feel better news :-) bad news for bike!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Scuba_Steve]

Well seems the answer to why my bike's dying every 8mile is it's stator, stupid automotive expenses :mad:

[vifferman]

Designed to be able to take the rear wheel off quickly and easily!:-)and to look amazing. What do the Ducati swingarms weigh?

That's Ok if you've also got the single wheel nut, but the four bolts on the 800 take a bit longer. Plus even with the high-mount zorst, the wheel's not that easily removed, unless you give the bike extra height, as the rear caliper hangs up on the rim. The VFR750 was better, as the muffler swung out of the way.
Dunno what the Ducati and Triumph single-sided gubbinses weigh, but on the forums where guys have done the swap of various bits, usually a kilo or two can be saved. Not a huge amount, but some. The big deal in some ways is all the metal bits in the eccentric in the hub - that's not light. However (but!) from memory, I don't believe there's much difference in weight (or power) between the VTR and VFR, although the VTR has more torque. Riding them back-to-back though, despite the VTR feeling more nimble (and not having the heavy rear end), the VFR's quality really shines through, and it's better two-up, which is why my SpousalUnit made me buy it 10 years ago....
I've no regrets either, which is why I've passed up several opportunities to replace it.

[Icemaestro]

Very true. The 750 wasn't designed for endurance racing I believe? Not sure why they swapped the exhaust over either given the rc30 and rc35 had it on the left from memory?

I know the Brit nc30 owners owners swap out many things for titanium versions that were in the rc30, eg the spindle I think? Which saves a decent amount of weight.

And bang on about the build quality...for goodness sake i have a 1989 bike that starts first pop and is an absolute blast to ride after being abused on a track for at least 10 of its 25 years


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[badlieutenant]

Very true. The 750 wasn't designed for endurance racing I believe? Not sure why they swapped the exhaust over either given the rc30 and rc35 had it on the left from memory?

I know the Brit nc30 owners owners swap out many things for titanium versions that were in the rc30, eg the spindle I think? Which saves a decent amount of weight.

And bang on about the build quality...for goodness sake i have a 1989 bike that starts first pop and is an absolute blast to ride after being abused on a track for at least 10 of its 25 years


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

1986 and its starts every time despite lots of long distance riding with the odd trackday. Bay of islands to wellington at least 60 times with 20,000kms clocked up in a month every now and then. If they had put the reg/rec in the right place it would have been even more reliable :D

[lukemillar]

Does anyone have a set of NC30 carbs they want to get rid off for not crazy money?

Drop me a PM if you have anything. I'll be replacing the slides, jets, needles, emulsions tubes, intake stacks + top plate so if any of these parts are missing/broken it doesn't matter

Thanks
Luke

[Icemaestro]

Gave my last two lots to a guy down in the South Island sorry - what are you up to now? Given up on the fcr's and going hrc everything? There was a guy on 400gb recently who had a full hrc carb :-p but I guess we wouldn't be able to get it posted here?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[HenryDorsetCase]

Does anyone have a set of NC30 carbs they want to get rid off for not crazy money?

Drop me a PM if you have anything. I'll be replacing the slides, jets, needles, emulsions tubes, intake stacks + top plate so if any of these parts are missing/broken it doesn't matter

Thanks
Luke

I dont have any carbs sorry: but I would like a 93HP NC30

http://mngforce.typepad.com/nc450vdev/nv450v-gen-6ti-2011-engine.html

[Icemaestro]

Wow. Hate to know what they've been spending!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[lukemillar]

Gave my last two lots to a guy down in the South Island sorry - what are you up to now? Given up on the fcr's and going hrc everything? There was a guy on 400gb recently who had a full hrc carb :-p but I guess we wouldn't be able to get it posted here?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm hedging my bets! I still want to use the FCR's but at the end of the day, my old HRC setup was faster and in racing that's all I care about if I can't get the FCR's dialed in well enough!

I can post some pics but the HRC setup isn't that exclusive as most of the kit is still readily available.

Sorted for carbs now

[Icemaestro]

I'm hedging my bets! I still want to use the FCR's but at the end of the day, my old HRC setup was faster and in racing that's all I care about if I can't get the FCR's dialed in well enough!

I can post some pics but the HRC setup isn't that exclusive as most of the kit is still readily available.

Sorted for carbs now

Your nc30 for sale, having never ridden a stock one. - is the suspension both stock? And how well does it pull through the 5k spot given the stock exhaust etc?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[sil3nt]

NC35 rear wheel anyone?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/191225826020?item=191225826020&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:B:ONA:US:3160&vxp=mtr
Currently at $500 incl shipping.

[Cam_Valk]

Stunning day in Wellington today, so i had to take the bike out for a ride around the bay.

[lukemillar]

Your nc30 for sale, having never ridden a stock one. - is the suspension both stock? And how well does it pull through the 5k spot given the stock exhaust etc?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep - stock both ends. Rides pretty well, though the forks get a little tied up if you hit a big bump. 5k flat spot is more noticeable (at first I thought it had dropped a cylinder) but it is lovely above that

[Icemaestro]

Okay sweet. Had any good bites yet? I'm not such a massive fan of the rwb scheme but do like the sound of a nice stocker given I can't get my hands on an rvf. :-)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Vinz0r]

Okay sweet. Had any good bites yet? I'm not such a massive fan of the rwb scheme but do like the sound of a nice stocker given I can't get my hands on an rvf. :-)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hah, I'm reasonably keen, but the damn thing is in Wellington. I'm trying to come up with a creative (cheap) way of getting it to Hamilton without blowing my already blown budget.

[HenryDorsetCase]

Hah, I'm reasonably keen, but the damn thing is in Wellington. I'm trying to come up with a creative (cheap) way of getting it to Hamilton without blowing my already blown budget.

hitchhike down ride back

[Icemaestro]

I did a 10$ nakedbus down to bulls to pick up a cbr600 a few years back..was late nov though and still freezing through the desert road!ive definitely considered buying it! What puts me off is the work I've up into this on the carbs, fork seals, that it has the bmw shock, cartridge emulators and a half system...feel like is be making a mistake to go to a stocker...



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Vinz0r]

I did a 10$ nakedbus down to bulls to pick up a cbr600 a few years back..was late nov though and still freezing through the desert road!ive definitely considered buying it! What puts me off is the work I've up into this on the carbs, fork seals, that it has the bmw shock, cartridge emulators and a half system...feel like is be making a mistake to go to a stocker...



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah I bussed to palmy to pick up my last bike. Rode back through a bloody gale. Storms on the desert road are not fun.
'Spose I could do that again, just need to pay more attention to the forecast.
theoretically speaking, if you were to sell yours, how much would you want for it?

[Icemaestro]

Id have to sit down and work out what I've spent, probably between 3 and 3.5k


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[vifferman]

If they had put the reg/rec in the right place it would have been even more reliable :D
True dat.:yes:
On my VFR750, the R/R went, so I rewired everything in the circuit from the alternator, through the R/R and to the battery, with thicker gauge wires, then mounted the R/R where the horn goes, on a thick piece of aluminium plate, in the breeze. Can't remember where the horn went to; prolly under the front fairing.
Bought the VTR1000 shortly afterwards, and despite having been through the drama of having the R/R fail on the VFR, AND having mounted a voltmeter on the VTR's dashboard, I entirely missed the fact the R/R was throwing a spazz. Faffed around, bought a new battery, then finally twigged and replaced the R/R. :facepalm: Well, at least I eventually worked it out.:confused:

On the VFR800, all I did when I first got the bike was fit a PC fan on top of the R/R. There's vents in the rear side cowl, so it seems to get plenty of cooling. Been like that for nearly 10 years, and (as far as I know) it's the original R/R still. If so, it's now 13 years old, without a hint of misbehaviour.
So it will probably fuckout next week now...

[badlieutenant]

True dat.:yes:
On my VFR750, the R/R went, so I rewired everything in the circuit from the alternator, through the R/R and to the battery, with thicker gauge wires, then mounted the R/R where the horn goes, on a thick piece of aluminium plate, in the breeze. Can't remember where the horn went to; prolly under the front fairing.
Bought the VTR1000 shortly afterwards, and despite having been through the drama of having the R/R fail on the VFR, AND having mounted a voltmeter on the VTR's dashboard, I entirely missed the fact the R/R was throwing a spazz. Faffed around, bought a new battery, then finally twigged and replaced the R/R. :facepalm: Well, at least I eventually worked it out.:confused:

On the VFR800, all I did when I first got the bike was fit a PC fan on top of the R/R. There's vents in the rear side cowl, so it seems to get plenty of cooling. Been like that for nearly 10 years, and (as far as I know) it's the original R/R still. If so, it's now 13 years old, without a hint of misbehaviour.
So it will probably fuckout next week now...

the one where the R/R fails thermally (looks good under load but get her warm and woops, there's a boiled battery) was the 2nd R/R for me. I did the same pc fan trick on top of the R/R heat sink, hooked up to the petrol pump and always rode with the lights on (I figured this lessens the load on the R/R, but I dont know for a fact if this helps). 10 years no problems either.
Oh except for the fuel pump. Apparently once you've done alot of kays the points start to die. Brian Bernard and a few others thought it was a sticky float. Behaved like it was. Random loss of power/fuel. Wait for a while and there wouldn't be a problem. If ever your pump fails due to points go on wemoto and buy replacements. New they were 33$. Waaay cheaper than a new fuel pump. (300$ ?) Some soldering required :D

[Vinz0r]

I bought Luke's NC30 that's on trademe at the moment, just need to get it shipped from Wellington now!

[sil3nt]

I bought Luke's NC30 that's on trademe at the moment, just need to get it shipped from Wellington now!Sweet :niceone: Get it here quick so we can go for a ride :bleh:

[Vinz0r]

Sweet :niceone: Get it here quick so we can go for a ride :bleh:

Should be here next week some time, I'll let ya know! Keen for another Raglan ride, I've got another learner mate who got an EX250 awhile back who should be able to tag along by now.

[mark247]

I bought Luke's NC30 that's on trademe at the moment, just need to get it shipped from Wellington now!

Nice one! You should ride it back, I did Tauranga - Wellington today.. I wont lie, I'm sore :D

http://i.imgur.com/byL6zq6.jpg

[ecko_nzed]

I find about 60 mins stints to break up a long trip work best for me on the RVF

[ecko_nzed]

So word to the wise, when rebuilding your motor, pay special attention to bearing selection. But on the brighter side, spare motor seems to have a viable crank

[koba]

So word to the wise, when rebuilding your motor, pay special attention to bearing selection. But on the brighter side, spare motor seems to have a viable crank

Spill......

[ecko_nzed]

Rebuilt my motor about 15,000 Kms ago. Didn't realize that there are different bearings for front and rear conrods. That caused a wee knocking noise to start. Result is fucked journals.

[ecko_nzed]

Annoyed with myself, because I took my time with the rebuild, to make sure I did it proper. I AM A DICK!

[Vinz0r]

Bike was delivered yesterday, but I was in Rotorua so had it delivered to a mates house. Picked it up tonight, phwoar they're a good fun little bike! Was a lot more entertaining to ride than my ZX6R. It just wants to fall into corners, but it feels so stable. Brilliant!
Riding position worked well for me too, I'm a tall lanky bastard and I was less bent over than on the ZX6R, which is good because I have some lower back issues.

Will give it a good clean and wax tomorrow + adjust everything to my liking, and then post a few pictures.

Any recommendations on an aftermarket exhaust for one of these? Bit of a sewing machine with the factory can aren't they.

[mark247]

Rebuilt my motor about 15,000 Kms ago. Didn't realize that there are different bearings for front and rear conrods. That caused a wee knocking noise to start. Result is fucked journals.

That sucks mate.

A mate of mine the other day who is rebuilding his NC30 engine said he's having a hard time figuring out which bearings are for his engine. I understand not all years of nc30 engine have the same big ends also?


Bike was delivered yesterday, but I was in Rotorua so had it delivered to a mates house. Picked it up tonight, phwoar they're a good fun little bike! Was a lot more entertaining to ride than my ZX6R. It just wants to fall into corners, but it feels so stable. Brilliant!
Riding position worked well for me too, I'm a tall lanky bastard and I was less bent over than on the ZX6R, which is good because I have some lower back issues.

Will give it a good clean and wax tomorrow + adjust everything to my liking, and then post a few pictures.

Any recommendations on an aftermarket exhaust for one of these? Bit of a sewing machine with the factory can aren't they.

As a fellow tall lanky nc30 rider, I still sometimes wish I had something a bit bigger ;) I've read SV650 clip-ons fit nicely and are a bit of an improvement, I may look into this sometime.

My bike has a Moriwaki exhaust which sounds quite nice, not too loud but you can certainly hear more than just the cam gears. In my opinion it isn't the prettiest though...

http://s7.postimg.org/bbt9wo1pn/exhaust.png

[ecko_nzed]

That sucks mate.

A mate of mine the other day who is rebuilding his NC30 engine said he's having a hard time figuring out which bearings are for his engine. I understand not all years of nc30 engine have the same big ends also?


Engine cases, cranks and conrods all vary in size. There is pretty much an A, B, or C bearing for each depending on the combination you have.

But don't trust me.... I got it wrong :(

It's in the Hayes manual, I can photo copy the info if you like?

[mark247]

Engine cases, cranks and conrods all vary in size. There is pretty much an A, B, or C bearing for each depending on the combination you have.

But don't trust me.... I got it wrong :(

It's in the Hayes manual, I can photo copy the info if you like?

No need to copy. He was telling me he has two manuals, a Haynes and a one other ( cant remember writer ) and they both have different bearing sizes for the same engine number.. :D eeek! He has no idea which one is correct.

[ecko_nzed]

No need to copy. He was telling me he has two manuals, a Haynes and a one other ( cant remember writer ) and they both have different bearing sizes for the same engine number.. :D eeek! He has no idea which one is correct.

The Haynes one was spot on for the NC30 & NC35. I just missed the bit that talks about there being a front and rear for each color

[sil3nt]

Bike was delivered yesterday, but I was in Rotorua so had it delivered to a mates house. Picked it up tonight, phwoar they're a good fun little bike! Was a lot more entertaining to ride than my ZX6R. It just wants to fall into corners, but it feels so stable. Brilliant!
Riding position worked well for me too, I'm a tall lanky bastard and I was less bent over than on the ZX6R, which is good because I have some lower back issues.

Will give it a good clean and wax tomorrow + adjust everything to my liking, and then post a few pictures.

Any recommendations on an aftermarket exhaust for one of these? Bit of a sewing machine with the factory can aren't they.Tyga have a lot of parts for the NC30. They do some sweet looking exhausts http://tyga-performance.com/site/index.php?cPath=72_1036_83

[Vinz0r]

Would love one of those double stack full systems, but price is a factor haha.
Might see whats pops up locally, maybe HDC has something in his boxes of bits? :niceone:

[sil3nt]

Just saw your post in Online Trading...

No such thing as a slip on for the NC30. You have to go full system or do a cut and weld.

[HenryDorsetCase]

Would love one of those double stack full systems, but price is a factor haha.
Might see whats pops up locally, maybe HDC has something in his boxes of bits? :niceone:

No motor parts at all now, bar some air box covers I found the other day. :( and I have lost the plate that goes with the frame I have which is a pisser. It might turn up.

[Vinz0r]

After a wash and a wax + adjusting various cables etc to my liking.
Apologies for the shit photo, was in a bit of a hurry to get home before the rain set in (was at a mates place where my tools are).

http://iforce.co.nz/i/01w22usb.ysm.jpg

[mark247]

After a wash and a wax + adjusting various cables etc to my liking.
Apologies for the shit photo, was in a bit of a hurry to get home before the rain set in (was at a mates place where my tools are).


Looking nice man! Are those original fairings? The V4 sticker etc looks slightly different

[Vinz0r]

Looking nice man! Are those original fairings? The V4 sticker etc looks slightly different

Haha good spotting. Looks like the upper and side panels are fibreglass, but the tail is original.
Colours match nicely though, and there is some extra gold pinstriping :niceone:

[Vinz0r]

Did some spannering yesterday to fix up a few small problems.
Had a bit of a crap idle, and bogged down a little when accelerating from a standstill at 2kish rpm. Choke caused an immediate stall even when stone cold.
Luke had cleaned the pilot jets and set floats not too long ago, so I reset the a/f screws to 2 turns out and seems to have fixed these issues, just need to balance carbs now to get idle perfect.
Those A/F screws are bloody difficult to get at! Makes me appreciate my old Bandit 1200, where everything on the carbs was exposed and accessible.


Just have a few questions about rear suspension; I've seen a few options for replacement shocks (CBR600, RS250 etc) and was wondering if these will be significantly better than the 1990+ adjustable unit (Luke was kind enough to chuck one of these in with the deal when I bought the bike).
Is it worth just having the 1990+ standard unit rebuilt, or will I get better bang for buck going with a CBR600 or RS250 etc.

I can't afford fancy aftermarket like Penske or Ohlins, but I would quite like to get something a bit stiffer (currently using the '89 rear) as I find I am running a little wider exiting corners than I am comfortable with.

[sil3nt]

Nitron is what you want! Much cheaper than ohlins. Ok probably still more than you want to spend but I reckon the 1-way adjustable (http://www.nitron.co.uk/Motorcycles/Honda/VFR/vfr400-nc30) will still be better than anything from another bike.

I think the latest craze on 400GB is the s1000RR shock. The trouble with grabbing a shock from another bike is that you will most likely need a new spring as the spring rate will be wrong.

[Vinz0r]

Yeah that's what I am worried about with using a shock from another bike; respringing and revalving if needed will drive the cost up so much that I may as well have just got an aftermarket one to begin with.

Might see about getting the standard 90+ shock rebuilt/regassed and try that out. Any idea how much it costs in New Zealand? Seems to run about 100GPB according to the guys on 400greybike, but that's over in the UK.

[sil3nt]

This is what Robert Taylor told me a couple of years ago:


With respect to that stock shock you could easily spend $800 to $900 on it to replace the very nasty piston thats in it, respring it and recon it and youd still have something that has got a poor external responcse range to adjustment, has very small oil capacity and is not ride height adjustable. And that bike seriously needs ride height.
We have custom built perhaps 20 x VFR400 Ohlins shocks now ( they are long since out of production ex Ohlins for nigh on 15 years ) We did another one only 2 weeks ago. These are hose reservoir with independent comp and rebound adjustment and a ride height adjuster, sprung and set up specifically for you.
Front end, machine and process damper rods so they actually assemble concentrically and true inside the fork tubes ( ! ) Fit Race Tech emulators with a very specific modification that we do to them, Ohlins springs and sapcers, Ohlins oil

HUGE improvement at both ends.

I asked again end of last year and he told me about Nitron. I got the most expensive one that was around $1400. The cheapest one should be under $1000. A lot of people are happy using shocks from other bikes but I wanted it done properly.

[Vinz0r]

This is what Robert Taylor told me a couple of years ago:



I asked again end of last year and he told me about Nitron. I got the most expensive one that was around $1400. The cheapest one should be under $1000. A lot of people are happy using shocks from other bikes but I wanted it done properly.

Guess I'll just give it some time, and if I still have the bike in a years time think about dropping some money on the front and rear.
I'll pop the 90+ rear that I have into it in the mean time and see if that makes a difference; from what I've read it's a fair bit firmer than the 89 unit.

I hate when I have to spend money to get results haha.

[HenryDorsetCase]

Guess I'll just give it some time, and if I still have the bike in a years time think about dropping some money on the front and rear.
I'll pop the 90+ rear that I have into it in the mean time and see if that makes a difference; from what I've read it's a fair bit firmer than the 89 unit.

I hate when I have to spend money to get results haha.

they are still old,with Christ knows how many k's on them, and not that crash hot to begin with. But like you say, spendy to do properly. It is the best money you can spend on a bike though

[Icemaestro]

From having both the stock and rs250 shock in, and some bmw one in now (no idea what it is off the top of my head), the bmw one was the best, but both this and rs250 raised the rear which made it feel much better in the corners and stability in general road riding...no idea how difficult it was to get them there as they both came with track bikes I bought...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Vinz0r]

From having both the stock and rs250 shock in, and some bmw one in now (no idea what it is off the top of my head), the bmw one was the best, but both this and rs250 raised the rear which made it feel much better in the corners and stability in general road riding...no idea how difficult it was to get them there as they both came with track bikes I bought...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wanna do me a deal on the RS250 shock? :sweatdrop

Would be fun to mess about with.

Although it looks as though the lower knuckle needs to be shaved to get it to fit..

[Icemaestro]

Old bike sorry:-p current one has the bmw one in it...I reckon better, but the rs one had some ride height adjustment


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[HenryDorsetCase]

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/sports/auction-753046912.htm

So, uh, I reckon if you paid $5k for this you would pretty much always get your money back if the fairings are ridgey didge and it is as tidy as it looks.

If I have a fiver lurking I would buy it just to have. (I don't at present).

[Icemaestro]

Why's that? When Vincent got another pretty identical one for 4k and change? High km's. The rvf for 5k had the same km's but would be worth more?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Vinz0r]

Looks nice, but if its the same one I saw advertised on facebook awhile back, it has chinese plastics.

[sil3nt]

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/sports/auction-753046912.htm

So, uh, I reckon if you paid $5k for this you would pretty much always get your money back if the fairings are ridgey didge and it is as tidy as it looks.

If I have a fiver lurking I would buy it just to have. (I don't at present).I disagree. Aftermarket fairings with dodgy colours. Maybe $4000 if we knew the service history. $5500 is a bit of a laugh.

[HenryDorsetCase]

I disagree. Aftermarket fairings with dodgy colours. Maybe $4000 if we knew the service history. $5500 is a bit of a laugh.

ah so it looks better than it is. Oh well.

edit: I didnt pick up on the "Aftermarket fairings" he even says it upfront!.

Yeah $4k

[Icemaestro]

4k with aftermarket fairings that can be bought for as low as 450$ delivered? I would say yeah right to that!? 3k max! Or is my bike worth more than I thought :-p


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[lukemillar]

4k with aftermarket fairings that can be bought for as low as 450$ delivered? I would say yeah right to that!? 3k max! Or is my bike worth more than I thought :-p


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Tank has also been repainted as it is missing logo's and is the wrong color. Even a set of chinese fairings won't fix that!

[willytheekid]

Just found this and thought I would share For the VFR400 KBers :D

...spare engines & looms anyone??
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/complete-engines/auction-757634657.htm

Buy Now: $600.00

...seems like a good deal (And no...I have nothing to do with the seller etc...Im just at work being lazy & surfing TM :laugh:....shhh)

[ecko_nzed]

Just found this and thought I would share For the VFR400 KBers :D

...spare engines & looms anyone??
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/complete-engines/auction-757634657.htm

Buy Now: $600.00

...seems like a good deal (And no...I have nothing to do with the seller etc...Im just at work being lazy & surfing TM :laugh:....shhh)

Are they NC21 or NC24 motors?

[sil3nt]

I couldn't tell the model looking at the engine but the dash in the box makes me think NC24.

[HenryDorsetCase]

Just found this and thought I would share For the VFR400 KBers :D

...spare engines & looms anyone??
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/complete-engines/auction-757634657.htm

Buy Now: $600.00

...seems like a good deal (And no...I have nothing to do with the seller etc...Im just at work being lazy & surfing TM :laugh:....shhh)

speaking of NC30 project bits I & I have:

A frame with VIN and plate which has rego on hold.
A front end (needs work but I think all there and usable.... forks, triples, wheel, axle, brakes clipons.
a subframe
a swingarm complete.
at least one complete loom
fuel tank black/red: quite usable.
a front fairing: aftermarket and not pattern: it kind of looks ZXR750-ish. good condition though not mint.
a single seat tail fairing with cutouts for lights. I think it is just fairings but dont quote me (NC30).
a rider seat.
two fish bins full of bits.... not motor bits they have all gone. I will spread that shit out on the garage floor and see what is there.
I dont know what happened to the 18 inch rear rim I had: I may have sold or given it away.... otherwise I could advertise it as a roller.

Aaaaanyway. I am going to start putting all that shit on tardme this weekend but if any of you want anything specific sing out and I will have a look.

[willytheekid]

speaking of NC30 project bits I & I have:

A frame with VIN and plate which has rego on hold.
A front end (needs work but I think all there and usable.... forks, triples, wheel, axle, brakes clipons.
a subframe
a swingarm complete.
at least one complete loom
fuel tank black/red: quite usable.
a front fairing: aftermarket and not pattern: it kind of looks ZXR750-ish. good condition though not mint.
a single seat tail fairing with cutouts for lights. I think it is just fairings but dont quote me (NC30).
a rider seat.
two fish bins full of bits.... not motor bits they have all gone. I will spread that shit out on the garage floor and see what is there.
I dont know what happened to the 18 inch rear rim I had: I may have sold or given it away.... otherwise I could advertise it as a roller.

Aaaaanyway. I am going to start putting all that shit on tardme this weekend but if any of you want anything specific sing out and I will have a look.

Hi Henry :wavey:

Would you sell the swing arm hub/axle unit seperately? (They fit my 750, wanna turn mine into a single nut wheel fitting instead of the 4 nut*)

I think I would need the brake caliper braket as well :confused:....if your keen, I will do my research and confirm the parts required :yes:

*Really wanna put a Duc rear wheel on her to allow for better choice in tyre's (current tyre profile has limited tyre options)


THANKS HENRY!! :D

[Vinz0r]

Just found this and thought I would share For the VFR400 KBers :D

...spare engines & looms anyone??
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/complete-engines/auction-757634657.htm

Buy Now: $600.00

...seems like a good deal (And no...I have nothing to do with the seller etc...Im just at work being lazy & surfing TM :laugh:....shhh)

Damn it! He has a set of pipes that've been cut, would have been perfect if they were NC30..

[Autech]

Just found this and thought I would share For the VFR400 KBers :D

...spare engines & looms anyone??
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/complete-engines/auction-757634657.htm

Buy Now: $600.00

...seems like a good deal (And no...I have nothing to do with the seller etc...Im just at work being lazy & surfing TM :laugh:....shhh)

Hmm, I have almost an engine in my garage amongst other things... These would be handy but I doubt the missus would be happy to have more parts lying around lol.

On another note, I have a RVF gear set amongst my parts (they came with the bike) does anyone know if they are a straight fit into the NC24 gearbox? I would think not but it would be nice to shorten that uber long first gear down a bit.

[Icemaestro]

If anyone has some clutch bits I'd be keen. Haven't taken to mechanic yet but online guesses point to replacement plates and maybe basket? as when I put i first gear with clutch in engine revs drop slightly, as well as generally hard to change gears 75% of time...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[HenryDorsetCase]

If anyone has some clutch bits I'd be keen. Haven't taken to mechanic yet but online guesses point to replacement plates and maybe basket? as when I put i first gear with clutch in engine revs drop slightly, as well as generally hard to change gears 75% of time...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

clutch parts are wear items like brake pads. measure the stack height and see if it is in spec.. If not your steel plates are probably OK but the fibre plates are fucked.

While you are there get a new clutch cable too.

www.davidsilverspares.co.uk

[willytheekid]

SCORED!!:headbang:

...been looking for headlight guards due to all the road works n gravel round ChCh (I now have a few stone chips on the current headlight due to it) so I don't have to replace a broken & rather expensive headlight...bout $300 second hand, or over $600 new from ebay :crazy:
-Headlight guards?...like finding friggin chicken teeth!:facepalm: (was about to try & make some)

...but look what just arrived in the mail :D (Good nick, no chips etc and it even came with bulbs!)

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/lights/photos/a-756686840/p-322998256.htm

$35 delivered! :niceone: (if it was a KBer...THANK YOU!!)

[Vinz0r]

Complete imported (not vinned) NC30 that's been sitting in the back of some chaps shed for awhile.
Be a good deal if it goes cheap.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/sports/auction-757668542.htm

[ecko_nzed]

If anyone has some clutch bits I'd be keen. Haven't taken to mechanic yet but online guesses point to replacement plates and maybe basket? as when I put i first gear with clutch in engine revs drop slightly, as well as generally hard to change gears 75% of time...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

When I'm done rebuilding my RVF motor (again) I'll have a bunch of bits left over. Give me a shout when you work out what you need.

[ptroy]

Anyone got some nc30 valve shims?

[sil3nt]

Anyone got some nc30 valve shims?Nope but have you asked Honda Hamilton? They weren't cheap but they should have them.

[ptroy]

How much were they out of interest? I probably need a full set :/

[sil3nt]

How much were they out of interest? I probably need a full set :/Can't remember sorry the invoice is at home. Just give them a call :msn-wink:

Why would you need a full set?