VFR owners' thread, for VFRPS members and prospective members

[sil3nt]

Took about 10 hours but got this video uploaded


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rah_wWSRM6U

Quality came out pretty good seen as it was compressed.

[DrunkenMistake]

I watched it earlier, ashame you cant see past your screen, and that road looks mean for a speed test haha

[sil3nt]

I watched it earlier, ashame you cant see past your screen, and that road looks mean for a speed test hahaOn one of the other settings you can see wider around and over the screen. I just forgot to change it. Also had it set to upside down when i recorded this as i had it hanging in the car windscreen just before i took this and forgot to change it back :facepalm:

Thankfully flipping the video is easy! Both my bikes have dark screens which is a pain for videos. The road is this one.

<iframe width="640" height="480" frameborder="0" scrolling="no" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" src="http://maps.google.co.nz/maps?f=q&amp;source=s_q&amp;hl=en&amp;q=Holland+Rd,+Puketaha+3 284,+Waikato&amp;aq=&amp;sll=-37.730403,175.395355&amp;sspn=0.093136,0.181789&amp;ie=UTF 8&amp;geocode=Fa_Pv_0ddKhzCg&amp;split=0&amp;hq=&amp;hnear=Holland +Rd,+Puketaha+3284,+Waikato&amp;ll=-37.753683,175.35347&amp;spn=0.032574,0.054932&amp;z=14&amp;iwl oc=A&amp;output=embed"></iframe><br /><small><a href="http://maps.google.co.nz/maps?f=q&amp;source=embed&amp;hl=en&amp;q=Holland+Rd,+Puketaha +3284,+Waikato&amp;aq=&amp;sll=-37.730403,175.395355&amp;sspn=0.093136,0.181789&amp;ie=UTF 8&amp;geocode=Fa_Pv_0ddKhzCg&amp;split=0&amp;hq=&amp;hnear=Holland +Rd,+Puketaha+3284,+Waikato&amp;ll=-37.753683,175.35347&amp;spn=0.032574,0.054932&amp;z=14&amp;iwl oc=A" style="color:#0000FF;text-align:left">View Larger Map</a></small>

Its a bit bumpy!

[DrunkenMistake]

Yeah the upside down setting is sweet, the one i took over looking my front wheel was upside down hanging off the side of the bike, christ haha its just one long ass road..

[DrunkenMistake]

http://maps.google.co.nz/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Portabello+road+dunedin+new+zealand&aq=&sll=-45.879366,170.572122&sspn=0.161572,0.363579&g=Portabello+road+dunedin+new+zealand&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Portobello+Rd,+Dunedin,+Otago&ll=-45.879366,170.572122&spn=0.646286,1.454315&z=10
is the road I ride daily, in my vid i was heading to the city.

[Devy]

Yeah if it hangs then it's definitely lean and that's why you aren't getting a good idle.

With regard to pilot jets, it depends if you are running a stock can or not. If you are running an after-market can then you will need slightly more rich settings than stock. A lot of guys seem to think quarter or half turn is enough.

My carbs? It's really my whole induction setup too. All I did was thoroughly clean them out, adjust the float bowl heights (stock), set pilot screws, experimented with different needle heights, add an unmodified snorkel, add the rubber flap in front of the headstock, used a different air filter.

btw does anyone know exactly why there is a sub air filter element and if there is any change if you leave it out?

yeah ive got an aftermarket can, n ive done the pilot screw to.. did it as per 400 grey guide.. wind it up tight then unwind 2.25 turns

and i dont think it makes a difference to be honest, ive riden another vfr that went fine without the sub filter. mines just got alittle foam piece right now. might take it out the next time i open the airbox.

i havnt really experimented much yet will get into it eventually

[racefactory]

Try a half turn out (richer), should be good.

[Icemaestro]

I think I've got some in the garage. Will have a look for ya later tonight.

Any chance you have a stock right rearset?:-)

[Devy]

Try a half turn out (richer), should be good.

true. will try it out sometime and let u knw. thanks for the advice.

[racefactory]

I've got 2 brand new stock air filters here which I don't need.

If anyone wants they can have one for a couple of bucks. Think they are 60 bucks new?

[ecko_nzed]

Check out these hard to find videos of V4s being ridden how they should be. This guy below dominating a whole field of 600s etc on one of the most awesome tracks, Tsukuba!

Also this one of a very well set up bike having insane scraps with motards, 650s and stuff at Road America.

haha, l love seeing well ridden small bikes owning bigger bikes. good shit!

[del-solider]

I've got 2 brand new stock air filters here which I don't need.

If anyone wants they can have one for a couple of bucks. Think they are 60 bucks new?

Keen! will PM you after i finish work tonight

[PirateJafa]

hey guys i need a set of rear footrest both left n right for a nc30, last thing i need to get my green sticker off.

if any1 has any for sale could you PM me please would be keen to pick it up 2nite want to go for a ride with my mates 2moro.

thanks

I've managed to find a RHS one, but was only able to reach one of my four VFR parts boxes. Pretty sure I've got at least one more RHS one and a LHS in one of the other boxes, if you're interested.


Any chance you have a stock right rearset?:-)

The only one I was able to reach was a LHS stock rearset, sorry!

[Icemaestro]

I've managed to find a RHS one, but was only able to reach one of my four VFR parts boxes. Pretty sure I've got at least one more RHS one and a LHS in one of the other boxes, if you're interested.



The only one I was able to reach was a LHS stock rearset, sorry!

Cheers :-) if you find one in another box let me know, otherwise I'll buy one off devy next week :-). If you have a pillion lock you'd be my hero - currently looking at going all the way down to hawkes bay to get that and swap a few other things

[DrunkenMistake]

Ok, So its official im at the point where I am almost out of tread, still WOFable, but only just, I was thinking about getting some Michelin Pilot Road 3's, But I found they do a 120/60 17 front,
but they do a 160/60 18 rear, the OEM specs are 150/60 18, would the added width cause any issues?,
Was looking at the Michelin Pilot Road 3's becouse the road I have to road on a daily basis is twisties and the fact that I live in Dunedin can only spell Rain every 28 days of the month.
Any help/suggestions etc etc would be awesome.

[sil3nt]

Don't want to come across as a prick but...

http://www.400greybike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=25852

The site for everything :bleh:

[DrunkenMistake]

Don't want to come across as a prick but...

http://www.400greybike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=25852

The site for everything :bleh:

-Is signing up now- :innocent:

[Icemaestro]

Ok, So its official im at the point where I am almost out of tread, still WOFable, but only just, I was thinking about getting some Michelin Pilot Road 3's, But I found they do a 120/60 17 front,
but they do a 160/60 18 rear, the OEM specs are 150/60 18, would the added width cause any issues?,
Was looking at the Michelin Pilot Road 3's becouse the road I have to road on a daily basis is twisties and the fact that I live in Dunedin can only spell Rain every 28 days of the month.
Any help/suggestions etc etc would be awesome.

Not helpful at all but don't you have ice
Down there?:-p

[DrunkenMistake]

Not helpful at all but don't you have ice
Down there?:-p

Uhh yah that too, I done last winter on the 250 and survived some pretty hectic conditions, but its not tooooo bad as I live beside the harbour, its the black ice on the blind corners that gets ya, At the moment im snaking all over the show in the wet due to the lack of anything on my wheels, even in the dry its not good

[Monty69]

Love the vfr400r, but im keener on getting the RVF400R, the old cbr600 is a bit sluggish in the twisties and i dont mind losing a bit of top end speed for agility. Now to find a low k 1 on trademe...

[sil3nt]

Love the vfr400r, but im keener on getting the RVF400R, the old cbr600 is a bit sluggish in the twisties and i dont mind losing a bit of top end speed for agility. Now to find a low k 1 on trademe...Good luck. Racefactory just picked up the only low(ish depends on what you call low) RVF i have seen for a long time.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Sports/auction-368188811.htm


Your not gaining much by getting the RVF over the VFR. They do seem to be better kept by their owners though.

[racefactory]

K's really don't mean anything but my one happens to have quite low ks anyway... I'm not looking to part with it though unfortunately. but check it out anyway http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Sports/auction-368188811.htm. Don't be afraid to purchase one with 100k or so as it's all about condition with these bikes. My best running NC30 I've owned had way over 100k on the clock and had the slickest gearbox and brakes, far better than a 19k 'minter' I owned not so long ago. Good luck.

[del-solider]

Hey seeing as though its the uni break me and a mate are doing the loop on thursday, weathers looking good :woohoo:

So if any v4's keen to tag along give me a yell and we can meet up somewhere.

One more loop b4 the winter weather rolls in :shutup:

[Devy]

Hey seeing as though its the uni break me and a mate are doing the loop on thursday, weathers looking good :woohoo:

So if any v4's keen to tag along give me a yell and we can meet up somewhere.

One more loop b4 the winter weather rolls in :shutup:

im keen. havnt had a chance to test out the viffer yet.

[racefactory]

I'll be there... same place same time? 9am autobahn?

[Icemaestro]

Hi all..

SO been having a bit of a fun time with my nc30 - last thurs I left the fuel tap on, it's been modified to gravity feed, and when I went to start it, turn turn clunk. (hydrolock). I managed to get it going (stupidly enough) by rolling it for a bit
In gear, now went to go start last night, same thing except I'd left the fuel tap off. Pulled the tank and airbox off this morning, the air intake of left rear carb is full with fuel. Now am I correct in saying that this has to be due to the floats/float needles sticking open? So I should open up the carbs, give them a carb clean?

Now in the short term, to resolve the hydrolock, google tells me to take out the plugs and turn the engine over? How on earth do you get to the front two plugs? Not to mention I just realised my plug socket is for normal sized plugs :-(

[del-solider]

I'll be there... same place same time? 9am autobahn?

Yep sounds good, is that autobahn at Bombay?

[del-solider]

Hi all..

SO been having a bit of a fun time with my nc30 - last thurs I left the fuel tap on, it's been modified to gravity feed, and when I went to start it, turn turn clunk. (hydrolock). I managed to get it going (stupidly enough) by rolling it for a bit
In gear, now went to go start last night, same thing except I'd left the fuel tap off. Pulled the tank and airbox off this morning, the air intake of left rear carb is full with fuel. Now am I correct in saying that this has to be due to the floats/float needles sticking open? So I should open up the carbs, give them a carb clean?

Now in the short term, to resolve the hydrolock, google tells me to take out the plugs and turn the engine over? How on earth do you get to the front two plugs? Not to mention I just realised my plug socket is for normal sized plugs :-(

Front plugs are a b!tch, you need to take off the top radiator, well you do for the nc35 anyway.

I used a 13mm socket to get to these plugs pain in the arse these plugs are but it worked :yes:

[DrunkenMistake]

Sorry man, My NC30 is getting its tyres fitted today so I only have my 250, but here is where it is mounted, I used the flat 3M mount not the curved as shown in the pictures, I need to buy some more of them as TT used them on his R1 -.-'
236947236946236945236944

[sil3nt]

Thanks for the pics. Apparently they are reusable. Just get a hair dryer and heat them up and they come off without leaving any sticky stuff behind. They still remain sticky as well apparently. I am yet to use them myself though.

[DrunkenMistake]

Thanks for the pics. Apparently they are reusable. Just get a hair dryer and heat them up and they come off without leaving any sticky stuff behind. They still remain sticky as well apparently. I am yet to use them myself though.

Hm.. Idk I wouldnt reuse it, but you can buy the stick pads and just replace those if you wanted, but I would rather get some more mounts and just set them up, then all I have to do is move the Cam from spot to spot with minimal effort

[Icemaestro]

Thanks, happen to have a garage across the road with half the staff being bikers so I've discovered! Borrowed the 13mm socket, took the rear plugs out, all 4 coils off, and man what a show of petrol!! From the left cylinder! It started fine after that so

I reckon it's just that left rear float that's being the problem. Can I fix the float needle without taking the carbs off?

Also, thanks to devy for the right rearset :-) no more home jobby on the rear brake switch :-)

Lastly, I have a few parts still in my collection, front guard, fork springs, sprockets, rearsets (without the levers), handlebar, handlebar clamps, air filter/part of a box? Does anyone want any of this?

[DrunkenMistake]

Just put about 40km on my new tyres,
I got two brand spanking new tyres, on the front im running a 120/60 17 metzeler sportec m5 interact, and on the rear im running a 150/60 18 dunlop sportmax q2

[Monty69]

Good luck. Racefactory just picked up the only low(ish depends on what you call low) RVF i have seen for a long time.

Your not gaining much by getting the RVF over the VFR. They do seem to be better kept by their owners though.

There are few changes between the vfr/rvf but the main ones for me is the moderner looking tail, air intakes and upside down forks. And yes, usually well looked after as theyre much harder to get hold of. I saw 2 or 3 on trade me a few months ago and now its gone dry again!

[Monty69]

K's really don't mean anything but my one happens to have quite low ks anyway... I'm not looking to part with it though unfortunately. but check it out anyway http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Sports/auction-368188811.htm. Don't be afraid to purchase one with 100k or so as it's all about condition with these bikes. My best running NC30 I've owned had way over 100k on the clock and had the slickest gearbox and brakes, far better than a 19k 'minter' I owned not so long ago. Good luck.

Agreed, my mates vfr400r has 90k on the clock and still puts out a dynod 56hp at the rear whee. Fucking bullet proof. My other mates ZXR with 20k is well... a kawasaki and always has problems. You would think its done 100,000kms by the way it rides:facepalm:. Id consider a Honda with 50,000km reasonbly low as you know it would at least double that, if its been serviced properly....

[Monty69]

Good luck. Racefactory just picked up the only low(ish depends on what you call low) RVF i have seen for a long time.

[url]http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Sports/auction-368188811.htm[/url.

Ah why did they title it cbr250!!!!

[sil3nt]

Ah why did they title it cbr250!!!!He is re using an old classified. Cheaper that way.

[racefactory]

Agreed, my mates vfr400r has 90k on the clock and still puts out a dynod 56hp at the rear whee. Fucking bullet proof. Id consider a Honda with 50,000km reasonbly low as you know it would at least double that, if its been serviced properly....

Yeap no surprise. The reason it didn't put out the factory 58hp is probably all down to fine tuning carbs and the dyno used anyway. K's have absolutely no direct correlation to how the engine is running on one of these bikes. You could have an engine with 150k vs a 40k engine and it's a complete toss up as to which one runs better. There are WAY too many other variables that affect how it runs to make any educated guess based on a vague figure that has probably been significantly rewound before it touched this country's shores anyway :), I'd bet every one of these bikes have been rewound haha.

K's as a stand alone figure are only semi useful for a rough idea of how the suspension, bodywork (if still on originals) and parts susceptible to rust are.

Nothing wrong with Kawasakis either though!



Ah why did they title it cbr250!!!!

Just used an old CBR250 ad so I don't have to pay another 40.

Icemaestro what's the update with this fuel problem, what did we do wrong? I don't remember touching anything that would cause that, maybe just those carbs were left for a long time eh?

[sil3nt]

Hey seeing as though its the uni break me and a mate are doing the loop on thursday, weathers looking good :woohoo:

So if any v4's keen to tag along give me a yell and we can meet up somewhere.

One more loop b4 the winter weather rolls in :shutup:I just got facebook'd for a Friday coro loop. Don't think i will do either though :(

[Icemaestro]

Icemaestro what's the update with this fuel problem, what did we do wrong? I don't remember touching anything that would cause that, maybe just those carbs were left for a long time eh?

Nothing we did I reckon, though possibly one of the carb rubbers might be leaking a bit, contributing to the fuel smell. Itl just be that float assembly bit being old/sitting for ages I think..can replace with bits from the other one if carb cleaner doesn't do the trick

[motorbyclist]

NO. Copper cote is old shit.
Get yourself some nickel based anti seize. Stuff is good for extreme temps. I use it on everything at work. $$$ but well worth it.
copper anti-sieze is good for brakes

general purpose grease works well everywhere else (those footpeg bolts won't get above 50 degrees unless there is a fire)



Here is my next one, Does anyone know where the mounting points are for frame sliders on the NC30? I can see two but they are both on the engine and Im not completely keen to put them there although I am going to get a bracket made up so I dont have to cut my fairings, and that would reduce alot of the risk of the engine been damaged in a fall/crash

Honda used the fairing mounts. Joe public cuts the fairing and uses engine mounts.

If you want to mechanically protect your chassis/motor, use the fairing mount. The fairing will take the road rash after the mount took the impact. Either way you'll likely bend the rear subframe


i always follow that rule too but bumping the jet size is more of a performance upgrade. just like replacing your mufler.

im also wondering what brand oil every1's using on their bikes during winter?
repco holds that Castrol 4T? is that good?
and i havn't read alot of good things about these hiflow oil filters(considering they are quite cheap) soo im wondering if you guys run with that filter fine?? or i can get my hands on an orignal filter? or something better than the hiflow brand?


changing the muffler will require a re-jet. These bikes are engineered by HRC to run perfectly in stock condition; any variation on intake/exhaust will degrade performance without adequate tuning

I seriously doubt anyone has found any difference between the major brands of oil filters - just be sure to replace is every second oil change.


Would like to say yes, but I have those bolts that are like, threadless screws but have a grove in them that locks into place on the fairings, I dont know if these are stock? but looking at that kit they are not included?

they are stock.


Is their any dyno in Auckland that we can trust with our money for these V4's? .....If you hand in a tampered with NC30 to just anyone you'd be literally be throwing your money away.

totally agree. I use AJ at motohaus in kingsland. He's one of the best mechanic's I've met and a VFR fanatic too!


Thought I'd share a pic of my paper weight on my desk . 30 block with pistons 444cc:Punk::Punk:. Of course this is for a Race use only. chur

oooooh :drool: who made that?



Yes I have now got a snorkel! Looking forward to trying it out but doubtful it will cure my hiccup at 5k. Needles need a little more trial and error.

for emissions reasons there is a flat spot at 5k programmed into the ignition.

HRC offers a fairly expensive solution, but exhaust/carby work can do a pretty fair job of it.


Ok, so my VFR has been down the road about twice (not by me) and I had known this prior to purchasing, I have a sneaky suspicion that the left clip on isnt straight and is crimped under the grip, as it is loaded with tape under the grip and the cutch fine adjuster digs into the dial cluster when the bars are hard right, just wanting to know if anyone has ever had this problem?

the NC30 will hit the speedo with the clutch if the lever is moved down into the ideal position. This is one of the very few flaws with the NC30, remedied in the NC35.



btw does anyone know exactly why there is a sub air filter element and if there is any change if you leave it out?

what do you mean? The paper does the filtering, the mesh supports the paper (or keeps the leaves out when you replace the paper it with unlubed foam)


Love the vfr400r, but im keener on getting the RVF400R, the old cbr600 is a bit sluggish in the twisties and i dont mind losing a bit of top end speed for agility. Now to find a low k 1 on trademe...

good call :D

you can't half of a 600 on a decent road in NZ anyway


, to resolve the hydrolock, google tells me to take out the plugs and turn the engine over? How on earth do you get to the front two plugs? Not to mention I just realised my plug socket is for normal sized plugs :-(

on BOTH the NC30 and NC35 the top radiator hinges out of the way enough to extract the plugs, but sometimes it's easier to remove it.


There are few changes between the vfr/rvf ...

yeah just a few - including the chassis and motor.

common parts include the swingarm assembly, engine casings, 2nd thru 6th gear, crankshaft, conrod and pistons. Oh, and the front rim/discs.

revisions were to the head, carbs, chassis (all of it), 1st gear, electrics, suspension, calipers, cosmetics.

The story told for the chassis is not one of revision, but starting again to come to a similar, but better solution.

result? slight loss of top end but better power spread, even nimbler handling, clutch lever height adjustment without hitting speedo and no hot air under the seat (reduced fire risk, too).

having owned both i'd be happy with either.... probably prefer the NC35

[motorbyclist]

Don't remove it, nor the flap at the end of it. Everyone just ends up putting them back on after finding the airbox needs the snorkel to function, and the air-ram created when the flap is removed hampers the motor above 80kph.

What you CAN do, is drill a few holes in the flap to let cool air into the snorkel rather than hot air. Don't overdo it.

FYI that flap is meant to get cold air to the carbs in the motor V.

The HRC mods are pretty intense and involve a lot of cutting, drilling, and installation of an intake duct

[Monty69]

He is re using an old classified. Cheaper that way.

:shit: Oh slut, well come july when im looking for 1 ill keep a closer eye on the pics rather than just reading the titles or searching for RVF!

[Monty69]

yeah just a few - including the chassis and motor.

common parts include the swingarm assembly, engine casings, 2nd thru 6th gear, crankshaft, conrod and pistons. Oh, and the front rim/discs.

revisions were to the head, carbs, chassis (all of it), 1st gear, electrics, suspension, calipers, cosmetics.

The story told for the chassis is not one of revision, but starting again to come to a similar, but better solution.

result? slight loss of top end but better power spread, even nimbler handling, clutch lever height adjustment without hitting speedo and no hot air under the seat (reduced fire risk, too).

having owned both i'd be happy with either.... probably prefer the NC35

If money is an issue, the vfr is excellent bang for buck and barely any slower than a RVF, but the RVF is rare and much better/moderner looking. Worth the extra coin for me anyway. VFRs are quite common now (especially on trademe) but you hardly ever see a RVF. You say that 1st gear is different on the RVF... i hope its shorter, as i found launching my mates vfr took a lot of revs and clutch to get it away from the lights quickliy, letting that pesky boy racer to gain a brief lead...:ar15:

[HenryDorsetCase]

on BOTH the NC30 and NC35 the top radiator hinges out of the way enough to extract the plugs, but sometimes it's easier to remove it.



yeah just a few - including the chassis and motor.

common parts include the swingarm assembly, engine casings, 2nd thru 6th gear, crankshaft, conrod and pistons. Oh, and the front rim/discs.

revisions were to the head, carbs, chassis (all of it), 1st gear, electrics, suspension, calipers, cosmetics.

The story told for the chassis is not one of revision, but starting again to come to a similar, but better solution.

result? slight loss of top end but better power spread, even nimbler handling, clutch lever height adjustment without hitting speedo and no hot air under the seat (reduced fire risk, too).

having owned both i'd be happy with either.... probably prefer the NC35

you still need three very small hands to get the plugs out I find. two to hold the radiator, and one to undo the plug....

The other major difference between NC30 and NC35 is the 17 inch rear wheel on the NC35 (vs 18 on the NC30). If you put an NC35 rear wheel in your NC30 you will need a longer shock otherwise it doesnt sit or turn properly. you can also (I think) replace the dogbones (from memory the NC35 ones are longer?) or put in the HRC ones or copies. That guy Rich Oliver in the UK sells them.

I got the longer shock option: +12mm and its mint. Made a huge difference to ground clearance too: shows you how the old shock was sitting down in its travel..

[Icemaestro]

you still need three very small hands to get the plugs out I find. two to hold the radiator, and one to undo the plug....

The other major difference between NC30 and NC35 is the 17 inch rear wheel on the NC35 (vs 18 on the NC30). If you put an NC35 rear wheel in your NC30 you will need a longer shock otherwise it doesnt sit or turn properly. you can also (I think) replace the dogbones (from memory the NC35 ones are longer?) or put in the HRC ones or copies. That guy Rich Oliver in the UK sells them.

My nc30 has a rs250 shock that raises the rear so that I can only just get my feet on the ground (I'm 5"10 or so)...would that mean that putting a 17" wheel on it should drop the seat height a little, maybe back to stock height? ( I don't want to go to a stock suspension :-P)

And yes, it required 3 hands..though conveniently the engine head also holds the radiator away just enough to get tools in there :-)..kind of...

[DrunkenMistake]

Lol.. im 5'5 so with the stock set up I can only just touch the ground... :[

If I could drop it without ruining the way it handles etc I would

[HenryDorsetCase]

I'm 5 ft 4 and mine is tippy toes all the way. Its positively comical getting my leg up and over the rear hump as well. especially wearing leathers. Why havent I got a team of scantily clad pit-girls to lift me up and onto the bike and give me hand relief as well to calm my nerves?

I'm not sure how much of a drop the 18 vs 17 inch wheel would give you: it would depend on tyre profile which could or might make up the 12.5mm difference. I don't now have a stock rear wheel to measure from the ground to axle centre, but the 17 inch one with a 160/60R17 GPR alpha 10 is 310mm say.

[sil3nt]

My girlfriend must be around 5ft 4 and there is no way in hell i would let her ride my NC30! Barely touches the ground and its quite a reach to the bars with her lady parts smashed against the tank haha

[DrunkenMistake]

My girlfriend must be around 5ft 4 and there is no way in hell i would let her ride my NC30! Barely touches the ground and its quite a reach to the bars with her lady parts smashed against the tank haha

Lmao, yah the only thing I could think of doing is replacing the rear shock with a full adjustable one and making it softer (im about 90+ kg, a wee short fat fucker on a sports bike, now thats comical) and it would probably do me right.

[HenryDorsetCase]

My girlfriend must be around 5ft 4 and there is no way in hell i would let her ride my NC30! Barely touches the ground and its quite a reach to the bars with her lady parts smashed against the tank haha

every bike I've ever had has been "too big" for me. I've gotten used to it over the last 30 years and its not a problem really. seat to bar to peg relationship isnt too bad, they're high to get ground clearance.


having said that, I am reluctant to ride modern dirt bikes (35 inch seat height is about my nipple......) but a road bike is fine. bigger problem is some cruisers with the pegs out the front. Waaaaaay out the front and I can sit on the seat, put my feet on the ground, but cant get my feet on the pegs.

think of the fun you can have massaging the feeling back into her girly bits after she's ridden the bike....

[Icemaestro]

haha my wife hates having to jump on the pillion seat of my raised nc30 - she actually has to jump to get her leg up and over...mind you I'm probably the only one silly enough to try pillioning with this beast anyway!:-D

[DrunkenMistake]

Posted a lowering Q on the 400greybike forum and was simply told to talk to Rick Oliver turns out he has a lowering kit that drops the front and rear by 20mm, He also sells the HRC replica carb kit with the under tray air intake if I remember right if you free up your exhaust system and add the HRC kit it will put you up to something like 70hp I cant fully remember so dont take my word, but its a cool looking set up if you havnt seen it here is a basic link,

http://www.akhara.com/nc30/nc30hrccarb/index.html
would be primo, but you would need to add some kind of mesh over the front of the scoop if you were to use it on the road, just in case you suck in some road gravel

....

Wtf I went to post about finding a lowering kit, and I end up blabbing about a carb kit lmao

[Icemaestro]

The carbs/bike I had the person attempted to do all that, though they didn't go as far as cutting out the slides or putting holes in the carb bracket. you're welcome to whats left of the carbs if you want something to play with. I found that 1) fuel consumption was horrible (about 9km/L), and it had issues over 100km due to the huge amounts of air coming in (it had been rejetted, but stock pilot jet screw settings). Though I didn't have the hrc scoop either.

[DrunkenMistake]

yah the HRC kit comes with,


http://www.rvf.dk/rickoliver/
NC30 HRC replica carburettor kit
Equivalent to Honda part# 06160-NKA-000 and consists of -
4 - 8ZF needles
4 - 8ZG needles
4 - 1.0mm needle shims
4 - 0.5mm needle shims
2 - Front (4-hole) emulsion tubes
2 - Rear (5-hole) emulsion tubes
Also available as per original race kit -
Main jets #140 - #150
Pilot jets #38 - #42

Also the Jack down kit is about 50 GBP .. so $130 NZ?

[sil3nt]

I wouldn't bother with an HRC kit. Give you more problems than this worth.

[DrunkenMistake]

I wouldn't bother with an HRC kit. Give you more problems than this worth.

Yeah I have a couple of things needing done ASAP such as sprockets and Chain and oil and filter change, then im going to get Gp custom to make me a stainless can and stainless and slip on, should free it up with some luck then ill get it rejetted and dyno tuned

[koba]

Why don't you all just stick a loud pipe on 'em, leave them alone and ride the feckers?

[racefactory]

Silent is right... HRC setup is not worth it for road bike. it will run like a bag of balls without massive effort and you will not get 70hp; at least not without extreme work like 450cc, compression, pistons, rods and NC35 head etc, massive coin needed.

The evidence is clear already when just look how many non stock, modified (poked) NC30 road bikes there are... it's such that you can't get one with a stock induction at all these days as they've all been butchered beyond the point of no return. They all fail. Please save yourself many headaches mate... if you have an NC30 with a totally stock setup (minus can of course) then you should feel blessed.

Better mods for NC30 are rear shock, springs for forks, jack up link for rear.

[DrunkenMistake]

Yah the only things im going to change will be the sprocket teeth and the can, and that would be about it :yes:

[Icemaestro]

$130 for the single sided rear stand and about $180 for the front stand i believe. Had it written down just can't find it.

*edit*
$139 rear
$189 front

Still after a stand? http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=370700598
(http://http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=370700598)

[sil3nt]

Still after a stand? http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=370700598
(http://http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=370700598)Yeah that has been on there for awhile. Been meaning to get in contact and go have a look. Might go do it next week.

[DrunkenMistake]

Yeah that has been on there for awhile. Been meaning to get in contact and go have a look. Might go do it next week.

If its there still on Monday night, dont bother.. haha ;)

[sil3nt]

Fair enough. I've had over a month to go look at it. Not too worried as i dont mind paying the extra for a proper one.

[DrunkenMistake]

Fair enough. I've had over a month to go look at it. Not too worried as i dont mind paying the extra for a proper one.

Iv been tempted between a stand and a Dolly,

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=370313033
If you seen the space I had in our garage you would be shocked at how I can do anything lmao, yet I managed to fit the 250 and the 400 in there side by side, with a tonne of effort, we have an uphill slope into the garage so In order to get the bike out, I either ride it into the garage and get off, then when I need it, I push it out backwards and either push it uphill to turn it around, or push it 20M past all the crap down the driveway and turn it around on the street, or I ride it up to the garage, try and push it up hill then turn it and push it uphill and over a ledge into the actual garage so the front is facing out.. haha a dolly would be great, ride in, rode on, turn. Lmao

[DrunkenMistake]

I have brought some HEL front and rear braided lines, the next thing on the agenda brake wise is a calliper rebuild kit or new callipers? dunno if you can get after market ones or anything like that? mine arnt looking flash hot.. infact they are looking like a 40 year old life long hooker, So here are my questions,

Can you pick up a calliper rebuild kit easy and cheap enough? and could you use callipers from another bike?
and can you get a fork rebuilt kit as well or do you need to buy all the components separate

[sil3nt]

Search 400GB for calipers that work. I believe its fireblade calipers from around the year 2000 work.

[Harvd]

I think you need adapter plates with them for nc30. nc35 is a straight swap

[DrunkenMistake]

Ill do some investigating, cheers guys

[Icemaestro]

Can you pick up a calliper rebuild kit easy and cheap enough? and could you use callipers from another bike?
and can you get a fork rebuilt kit as well or do you need to buy all the components separate

I have a spare lot of fork springs and I think brushes
As well if you're interested

[DrunkenMistake]

I have a spare lot of fork springs and I think brushes
As well if you're interested
Oh sweet, ill get back to you about it in a couple of days

[HenryDorsetCase]

I have brought some HEL front and rear braided lines, the next thing on the agenda brake wise is a calliper rebuild kit or new callipers? dunno if you can get after market ones or anything like that? mine arnt looking flash hot.. infact they are looking like a 40 year old life long hooker, So here are my questions,

Can you pick up a calliper rebuild kit easy and cheap enough? and could you use callipers from another bike?
and can you get a fork rebuilt kit as well or do you need to buy all the components separate

They are available, they are cheap, and it is easy to do yourself (you will need a compressor to blow the pistons out, or one of those swanky pliers that it is made for.

You have to have surgical cleanliness, some of that red grease that is made for brake components, and a bit of time.

shout yourself a master cylinder rebuild kit while you're there, and if you havent got braided lines yet, get them too. Thats as much as you need, without spending mega bucks.

http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/VFR400-NC30-%28JAPANESE%29/part_22789/

20 squid!

http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/VFR400-NC30-%28JAPANESE%29/part_22791/

one of the recent Performance Bikes had a step by step how to on rebuilding your calipers, it was excellent.

[HenryDorsetCase]

I have a spare lot of fork springs and I think brushes
As well if you're interested

"Brushes"???

[DrunkenMistake]

Cheers HDC, I have brought braided lines the other day direct from HEL so im just waiting for them to arrive.

[Icemaestro]

"Brushes"???

Well they're cylindrical shaped things thAt look like objects on John silver website called fork brushes *shrug* no idea..never re done forks before.

[sil3nt]

Must be similar to fork bushes :whistle:

[Icemaestro]

Must be similar to fork bushes :whistle:

Haha oops! Maybe one of these days I'll learn how to read *yeah right*

[jono035]

for emissions reasons there is a flat spot at 5k programmed into the ignition.

HRC offers a fairly expensive solution, but exhaust/carby work can do a pretty fair job of it.



There is also the Programmable CDI replacement units that Rick Oliver sells, I've got one of them waiting to fit once I've got the exhaust sorted, which should be end of the week hopefully. Can't remember what I paid for it, but wasn't all that much.

[HenryDorsetCase]

Something I've often wondered is whether a VFR750 or 800 motor would fit into a VFR400 chassis and running gear.

Answer: yes.

The latest (May 2011) Performance Bikes (I subscribe so its not the one in the shops) has a half page feature on just such a beast.

It has a VFR750 motor. ZX-7R forks and brakes, Ducati 916 wheels and discs, and RVF400 bodywork.

89 hp, 50 lb/ft at the back wheel.

So why turn your 400cc motor into a hand grenade? there is no substitute for cubic inches, as they say.

Best of both worlds, as the guy says.


I'd probably want a full Tyga RC211V bodykit, but apart from that.....

Now, who wants to build me one?

[sil3nt]

Something I've often wondered is whether a VFR750 or 800 motor would fit into a VFR400 chassis and running gear.

Answer: yes.

The latest (May 2011) Performance Bikes (I subscribe so its not the one in the shops) has a half page feature on just such a beast.

It has a VFR750 motor. ZX-7R forks and brakes, Ducati 916 wheels and discs, and RVF400 bodywork.

89 hp, 50 lb/ft at the back wheel.

So why turn your 400cc motor into a hand grenade? there is no substitute for cubic inches, as they say.

Best of both worlds, as the guy says.


I'd probably want a full Tyga RC211V bodykit, but apart from that.....

Now, who wants to build me one?Welcome to last year :bleh:

http://www.400greybike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=18988&hilit=VFR+750


Good that it made it into a magazine

[gatch]

Something I've often wondered is whether a VFR750 or 800 motor would fit into a VFR400 chassis and running gear.

Answer: yes.

I'd probably want a full Tyga RC211V bodykit, but apart from that.....

Now, who wants to build me one?

I'll make you a deal, you lay down the cheddar and I'll build as many of them as you like.

Here's my (unfinished) GL145 powered spada. Not hugely difficult, but I am keen to tackle something more involved..

237424

[DrunkenMistake]

Managed to somehow leave my key in the ignition and the lights on last night and today the bike wouldnt start, gave it a charge but the charger wouldnt pick it up, so I took it into the battery center, they said their special charger didnt pick it up either, so I need a new battery, but they wouldnt look it up because the serial number had worn off the battery .. fuck my life, So I now have to look up the code for it (Which I have) and go back in tomorrow (which I cant due to work) .. So I done some looking around, what does everyone think of those Motobatt batteries?
:facepalm:

[sil3nt]

Don't feel too bad mate. At least your not as retarded as me

http://www.400greybike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=26209
:facepalm:

[DrunkenMistake]

Lmao, take the sump plug out and take like half an ice cream container out and try it again, dont do it hot cause you have to put the plug back in, and youll cook your hand

[sil3nt]

Lmao, take the sump plug out and take like half an ice cream container out and try it again, dont do it hot cause you have to put the plug back in, and youll cook your handYeah i will just do the oil change as planned. I know how to change the oil just dont know how to top it up :stupid:

I actually laughed when i realised what i had done. Can't believe it happend on both my bikes.

[DrunkenMistake]

Im kinda pissed now because I only have the 250 which has its rego on hold, with no gas and more than likely a flat battery ... So maybe if i strap a jump pack on the back of the 400... ill be good for work

[HenryDorsetCase]

I'll make you a deal, you lay down the cheddar and I'll build as many of them as you like.

Here's my (unfinished) GL145 powered spada. Not hugely difficult, but I am keen to tackle something more involved..

237424

that looks OK.

reading the thread about the vFR400/750 it appears that the key issue is the front engine mounts, which on that bike were (apparently) cut off the donor VFR750, and added to the 400's frame. Given its aloominum, that might require some specialist knowledge.

Think too: cheap rego! Its a 400 orificer~!

[DrunkenMistake]

There was a bike somewhere down this was, was in a 89 cbr 250 frame and It had either a cbr 600 or a cbr 400 in it and was rego'd as a 250, I think they re stamped the engine with the 250 markings haha.

[gatch]

that looks OK.

reading the thread about the vFR400/750 it appears that the key issue is the front engine mounts, which on that bike were (apparently) cut off the donor VFR750, and added to the 400's frame. Given its aloominum, that might require some specialist knowledge.

Think too: cheap rego! Its a 400 orificer~!

Ally welding I can't do. But I'm friendly with a few that could, with the right motivation :drinkup:

I'd certainly leave it reg'd as a 400 too.

[motorbyclist]

You say that 1st gear is different on the RVF... i hope its shorter, yeah they redline around 80kph rather than 100

the power develops at 6k instead of 8k, too

and the bars are moved 10mm higher relative to the seat

and it doesn't get as hot

and the clutch lever is adjustable

etc etc


you still need three very small hands to get the plugs out I find. two to hold the radiator, and one to undo the plug....


I got the longer shock option: +12mm and its mint. Made a huge difference to ground clearance too: shows you how the old shock was sitting down in its travel..

i use a spanner to prop up the radiator

lol how could I forget the wheel!
btw the HRC manual recommends putting a spacer to jack up the rear from stock anyway ;)



I'm not sure how much of a drop the 18 vs 17 inch wheel would give you:

about half an inch? 12mm? maybe a tad less....


haha my wife hates having to jump on the pillion seat of my raised nc30 - she actually has to jump to get her leg up and over...mind you I'm probably the only one silly enough to try pillioning with this beast anyway!:-D

Me and the missus toured the north island on it over xmas/new years year before last. Did great with the rear preload set up properly



Can you pick up a calliper rebuild kit easy and cheap enough? and could you use callipers from another bike?
and can you get a fork rebuilt kit as well or do you need to buy all the components separate

yes, david silver spares sells all the bits your need. Otherwise the brakes are the same as the late-ninties vtr1000 firestorms (from memory). NC35 brakes have different sized pistons to the NC30.

what needs replacing in the forks?


Managed to somehow leave my key in the ignition and the lights on last night and today the bike wouldnt start, gave it a charge but the charger wouldnt pick it up, so I took it into the battery center,

I get a bit iffy when car mechanics poke around motorcycles.

did you try bump-starting it?

whatever you do DO NOT jump start from a running car. Bike electrics work differently to car electrics and your reg/rec gets in an argument with the car alternator it is bound to lose..... jumping from a car battery is fine, just don't have the car motor running.

Most chargers will crap out on dead batteries if they think they are poked - and a dead bike battery "looks" different to a car battery. try leaving the battery overnight hooked up to a charged car one and see if that helps.
I've also noticed some car chargers pump FAR too much current for motorcycle batteries - not good if you want them to live a long and happy life

[jono035]

Yeah, my crappy Arlec car battery charger can be used for about 5 minutes before you can hear the electrolyte beginning to fizz...

[DrunkenMistake]

Nah I got one of those 12V - 24V Jump packs, it fired up fine on that and I let it run for a while and took it for a short spit, got back and turned it off, gave it a start and it clicked once and that was it, the charger wouldnt even pick up it was there,
I dont take the bike to Car mechanics, I took the battery to the batt centre, in the hopes they could get it to charge up if not replace it

[jono035]

Nah I got one of those 12V - 24V Jump packs, it fired up fine on that and I let it run for a while and took it for a short spit, got back and turned it off, gave it a start and it clicked once and that was it, the charger wouldnt even pick up it was there,
I dont take the bike to Car mechanics, I took the battery to the batt centre, in the hopes they could get it to charge up if not replace it

I've had a situation where a stuffed battery loaded down the reg/rec too much for it to do anything other than keep the bike running, barely. It would start to cut out if run with the lights on for more than a few minutes. Got it completely charged up using a decent float charger and the battery was good for another few months, providing I didn't have any troubles starting the bike.

[DrunkenMistake]

I've had a situation where a stuffed battery loaded down the reg/rec too much for it to do anything other than keep the bike running, barely. It would start to cut out if run with the lights on for more than a few minutes. Got it completely charged up using a decent float charger and the battery was good for another few months, providing I didn't have any troubles starting the bike.

Yah the 250's battery was fine, I held it upside down and it fired up the 400 but wouldnt do shit to the 250, turns out I had popped a ignition fuse, I have ordered a new Motobatt battery for the 400.

[tigertim20]

There was a bike somewhere down this was, was in a 89 cbr 250 frame and It had either a cbr 600 or a cbr 400 in it and was rego'd as a 250, I think they re stamped the engine with the 250 markings haha.

it was an 88/89 GSXR 250 with a 400 motor in it, still regod as a 250. seller was in invercargill. figures!!

[HenryDorsetCase]

it was an 88/89 GSXR 250 with a 400 motor in it, still regod as a 250. seller was in invercargill. figures!!

I've seen (in a PB, where else) a ZRX400 with a 929 Fireblade motor in it. Looked factory.

[gatch]

I've seen (in a PB, where else) a ZRX400 with a 929 Fireblade motor in it. Looked factory.

I have reason to believe my alternator is wrecked. I have a new aftermarket reg/rec and a juicy new YUASA battery. Been about 7 days since the battery went in and it's going flat.

Arse.

[DrunkenMistake]

it was an 88/89 GSXR 250 with a 400 motor in it, still regod as a 250. seller was in invercargill. figures!!

Yeah thats the one that was on Tm, there is another one riding around, one of those sunny day riders

[motorbyclist]

it was an 88/89 GSXR 250 with a 400 motor in it, still regod as a 250. seller was in invercargill. figures!!

I've seen that on trademe a few times now over the years... was bright yellow when I first spotted it....


I have reason to believe my alternator is wrecked. I have a new aftermarket reg/rec and a juicy new YUASA battery. Been about 7 days since the battery went in and it's going flat.


Tested the coils? If rewinding proves expensive you might find some luck with the F3 racers - many of them pull all the charging gear off their bikes (they like to remove the flywheel and run total loss), so you could just do a straight swap over a few beers!

[denefoster]

I'm after a spare R/R as well, if anyone has one in country for a decent price..

[sil3nt]

So after the worlds longest oil change (having the right tools help :whistle:) i am putting the fairings back on. Except i can't remember how the radiator guard goes on. Probably doesn't help that it was missing a few parts that hold it on in the first place (or they broke off when i was removing it....this plastic is very brittle). Getting dark so will finish putting it back together tomorrow but if someone could tell me how the guard fits on it would be nice!

[DrunkenMistake]

So after the worlds longest oil change (having the right tools help :whistle:) i am putting the fairings back on. Except i can't remember how the radiator guard goes on. Probably doesn't help that it was missing a few parts that hold it on in the first place (or they broke off when i was removing it....this plastic is very brittle). Getting dark so will finish putting it back together tomorrow but if someone could tell me how the guard fits on it would be nice!

Haha, when I done my bike Tigertim20 done the front end of the fairings, so when I got it going and he had pissed off I couldnt tell what went where, so I ended up riding it naked for about a week lmao

[VFR400R]

Well just thought it is about time I posted on this forum again.

Anyway I have been away for a while :( away from bikes that is. The last VFR I had was a NC30 that I but a Tyga body kit on that I painted black with a blue pearl, the wheels were silver. I sold that.....maybe 3 or 4 years ago.

Ok I have not had many bikes as some but 60% have VFR, 30% V-Twin and 10% an inline 4. I just love the Honda V4.

So the VFR I have owned
1 x VFR400 NC21
1 x VFR400 NC30
1 x VFR800 98
1 x VFR800 04

And soon another VFR800 this time 08

Anyway will post more once I have the bike here at home :D

[DrunkenMistake]

Were the lights on the tyga kit e marked? am looking at getting a tyga tail kit in the future for the NC30

[VFR400R]

it passed a WOF at a testing station first time. Next time at a VTNZ testing station I had issues as one side was only high not high/low reflector. This was an easy fix, disable the light on low :D

That was back in 07 and the kit is now using different head lights. I found the seller/owner Paul good to deal with and I am sure he will answer your emails/question if you post on his site, I am sure like any person in business is keen to keep his customers happy.

EDIT: Trying to remember back that far....I recall the tail lights/indicator assembly had an E mark on it. I don't recall looking at the head light that close :(

[HenryDorsetCase]

I got an email from Tyga saying my package had been returned to them, so they're well in my good books again. He is re-sending it. It got bounced because there is no access to the building it was addressed to. stupid earthquake

[DrunkenMistake]

What did you order? if you dont mind my prodding? they are really good to deal with, I got my stuff within a week not bad considering its from Thailand

[VFR400R]

Here is the pics of the old Tyga NC30 that I did - I can't find any others on the PC at the mo

[DrunkenMistake]

Looking mint, I want the tail kit that uses the stock subframe and had the pillion seatm im at my height limits now so an added 20mm on the seat height would kill me Hahaha

[jono035]

I've just ordered the aluminium mirror stay from them. Figured it'd be a couple of weeks before it showed up, took about 4 days before I had a card-to-call saying that it's waiting for me.

Anyone had any experience with RaceEvolution (http://www.raceevolution.co.nz/)? I've just ordered a full set of NC30 fairings from there. They seem pretty helpful and are quick to respond by e-mail, at least.

[Icemaestro]

I've just ordered the aluminium mirror stay from them. Figured it'd be a couple of weeks before it showed up, took about 4 days before I had a card-to-call saying that it's waiting for me.

Anyone had any experience with RaceEvolution (http://www.raceevolution.co.nz/)? I've just ordered a full set of NC30 fairings from there. They seem pretty helpful and are quick to respond by e-mail, at least.

I've just done the same thing - got to pick the colour scheme, we'll see how good it is...I ordered about a week ago and they said 2-3 weeks?
Quite steep price though I thought considering what you can get off ebay these days - around 500 delivered now with the great exchange rate...we'll see if the quality is better!

[sil3nt]

Let us know what the fairings are like. Thinking of getting some. What colour schemes did you go for?

[Icemaestro]

Let us know what the fairings are like. Thinking of getting some. What colour schemes did you go for?

Stock type 7..the kind I have now :-)

[DrunkenMistake]

yah let me know if they fit fine and what not, im awaiting for my 250 to sell and im buying a new set as my original set are a bit worse for ware, was going to get a blank set and once I have decided on my own scheme (I cant decide If i want to go with the scheme I have but spice the colours up a bit, as in pearl white, candy blue and candy red, or my own thought up scheme) have them painted a base colour then wrap the bike in vinyl's rather than painting as its cheaper and if it gets scuffed in a fall I can replace that section and it would look flawless still, plus in a few years if I get sick of it I can change the entire scheme, But I want to get a tyga tail like this http://tyga-performance.com/site/popup_image.php?pID=1829&invis=4 as it doesnt change the subframe and keeps the pillion seat. I either skim on money by getting Chinese fairings then buying the tail section, ditch the tail section idea, or commit to a NZ company for the stock fairings

[jono035]

From some of the comments on the 400GB forum, I was a little leery of the direct-from-China approach. Quite a few comments about needing to test fit then drill/file/heat-bend to get it to sit right, it seemed.

That said, at half the price, there's a lot of room for that kind of carry on...

I'm going to get mine painted the same silver that the bike was previously painted, in order to avoid having to get the tank resprayed. It also goes nicely with the dark grey that I had the rims powder coated with.

I'm getting AJ at Motohaus to do the work, and so far I'm pretty happy with his approach to it all. The clutch lever/perch, clipons, grips are all getting replaced as well.

With the braided lines on the front, I find that even with the brake lever on the closest setting, it's still too far out. What's the normal process for sorting that out?

[Icemaestro]

yah let me know if they fit fine and what not, im awaiting for my 250 to sell and im buying a new set as my original set are a bit worse for ware, was going to get a blank set and once I have decided on my own scheme (I cant decide If i want to go with the scheme I have but spice the colours up a bit, as in pearl white, candy blue and candy red, or my own thought up scheme) have them painted a base colour then wrap the bike in vinyl's rather than painting as its cheaper and if it gets scuffed in a fall I can replace that section and it would look flawless still, plus in a few years if I get sick of it I can change the entire scheme

They only charge 200$ for the painting in whatever scheme you want - thats pretty darn cheap! especially for a custom job (the question will be how good).

[Icemaestro]

I'm getting AJ at Motohaus to do the work, and so far I'm pretty happy with his approach to it all. The clutch lever/perch, clipons, grips are all getting replaced as well.


Is he pretty good with NC30's? How is he with Carbs?:-P I'm having some issues that while I'll give another shot at checking myself (waiting on the fuel tap rebuild kit and need to clean the fuel filter, and figure out if the floats are leaking into the chamber), if that fails then may need some help!:-P

Not sure about the adjusting sorry - I have braided lines all round but haven't looked at where my brake lever is! will check tomorrow if no-one else replies :-)

[jono035]

Is he pretty good with NC30's? How is he with Carbs?:-P I'm having some issues that while I'll give another shot at checking myself (waiting on the fuel tap rebuild kit and need to clean the fuel filter, and figure out if the floats are leaking into the chamber), if that fails then may need some help!:-P

Not sure about the adjusting sorry - I have braided lines all round but haven't looked at where my brake lever is! will check tomorrow if no-one else replies :-)

Yeah, I've heard from a few different people that he's the go-to-guy for anything to do with NC30s, especially carb issues.

[DrunkenMistake]

They dont do custom schemes, they give you a selection of schemes to pick from

[jono035]

They dont do custom schemes, they give you a selection of schemes to pick from

I've already talked to the guy about it and he says they can do single-tone in any of the colours within the Lechler range of motorcycle paint. I've arranged with him to drop off one of the panels so that he can colour-match it. I've ordered and paid for the fairings themselves to get the process underway.

Hopefully that'll go well. If he can't find a perfect match, I'll just get him to get as close as he can then get the tank resprayed in the same colour down the line.

I could always take it back to stock, but it would have to work with the dark grey rims, because I can't be bothered getting them re powder-coated.

[Icemaestro]

They dont do custom schemes, they give you a selection of schemes to pick from

Nope if you ask he said he'd do the stock type 7 scheme I asked and showed him a few pictures of for the same price as their honda schemes

[DrunkenMistake]

Nope if you ask he said he'd do the stock type 7 scheme I asked and showed him a few pictures of for the same price as their honda schemes

Uhk, I really want to do my own scheme something different, im pretty sure painting it would cost double than wrapping it.

[Icemaestro]

Uhk, I really want to do my own scheme something different, im pretty sure painting it would cost double than wrapping it.

200$ is what it costs for any paint scheme...last time I got fairings and tank painted it cost me 600 cash deal (same price slowfox on here charges), just for gloss black...so unless you can get painted + decals for 200...and if you can..where!!!

[HenryDorsetCase]

What did you order? if you dont mind my prodding? they are really good to deal with, I got my stuff within a week not bad considering its from Thailand

just the HRC rear reservoir thing and I think a smaller master cylinder reservoir as well.

I may try going to a smaller battery so I can fit my shock remote reservoir more elegantly in the subframe as well. one of those LiPo jobs. expensive but.

[VFR400R]

But I want to get a tyga tail like this http://tyga-performance.com/site/popup_image.php?pID=1829&invis=4 as it doesnt change the subframe and keeps the pillion seat.
Tyga has some cool new kits vs what was around 3-4 years ago when I did my conversion, I like the new tail sections that don't change the subframe and keep the pillion seat too. Looks much better IMHO.

Re the fit of the kit I had, there was a little bit of minor modifications I needed to do on some of the brackets and there was a trick on the order I of the rear under tail bolts or you ended up with the last few not lined up at all. So it was something you got used to and just took your time on. It was really only the tail sections that was a bit of trick. And I had to modify the belly section around the side stand to just to make sure the side stand did not catch/mark the fairing, again minor.

[sil3nt]

I am assuming the RaceEvolution fairings will be the same Chinese ones from Ebay? Do they have any in stock or is it made to order?

[HenryDorsetCase]

I am assuming the RaceEvolution fairings will be the same Chinese ones from Ebay? Do they have any in stock or is it made to order?

They bought a set and fitted them to a Fireblade (or R1?) in this months PB: the review was very favourable. Something like $2300 squid for OEM, vs $400 squid for the Chinese jobs.

[Icemaestro]

I am assuming the RaceEvolution fairings will be the same Chinese ones from Ebay? Do they have any in stock or is it made to order?

Made to order from what I gather from the guy, Though they guarantee that they will fit with "little or no fitting adjustments"...so they better fit good or else!:-P

[Icemaestro]

Hi, thoughts much appreciated:
Bike been sitting out in the rain for the last day or so (was raining, didn't want to put cover over it with everything wet!)
Riding today getting an [B]irregular[B] clicking sound from the front wheel area I believe at all speeds (though can't hear it or feel it as much past 100kms). Did about 30-40kms today and I think it was a bit worse (being more often, noticing a noise every 1/2 second or so) on getting home. also feel a funny sensation in the bars with the noise - thought for a bit there might be a small rock or something stuck somewhere? doing a quick google leads me to think the bearings are going?
If so...should I try do these myself? In my spare time (yeah right) or would I be better off getting george the MC doctor to do them (or someone cheaper?) and/or how much would I be looking at to get it done? Tempted to just hand him the bike and say make everything better :-P.

On the bright side, my fuel tap repair kit should be here tomorrow!:-P

[jono035]

Hi, thoughts much appreciated:
Bike been sitting out in the rain for the last day or so (was raining, didn't want to put cover over it with everything wet!)
Riding today getting an [B]irregular[B] clicking sound from the front wheel area I believe at all speeds (though can't hear it or feel it as much past 100kms). Did about 30-40kms today and I think it was a bit worse (being more often, noticing a noise every 1/2 second or so) on getting home. also feel a funny sensation in the bars with the noise - thought for a bit there might be a small rock or something stuck somewhere? doing a quick google leads me to think the bearings are going?
If so...should I try do these myself? In my spare time (yeah right) or would I be better off getting george the MC doctor to do them (or someone cheaper?) and/or how much would I be looking at to get it done? Tempted to just hand him the bike and say make everything better :-P.

On the bright side, my fuel tap repair kit should be here tomorrow!:-P

Lift the front wheel, spin/wiggle it and see if you can find the source of the sound. No idea really, but could be wheel bearings, brake discs, something caught around the axle.

If it is the wheel bearings then it's probably better to get a bike place to do them. Getting the old bearings out is a bastard without a puller, and getting the new ones in can be a pain unless you can find something to act as a spacer to avoid putting pressure anywhere aside from the outer race. It's also a 10 minute job for a kitted out shop.

[Icemaestro]

Lift the front wheel, spin/wiggle it and see if you can find the source of the sound. No idea really, but could be wheel bearings, brake discs, something caught around the axle.

If it is the wheel bearings then it's probably better to get a bike place to do them. Getting the old bearings out is a bastard without a puller, and getting the new ones in can be a pain unless you can find something to act as a spacer to avoid putting pressure anywhere aside from the outer race. It's also a 10 minute job for a kitted out shop.

Yup did that, getting clicking/catchIng coming from the left side bearing, can see it moving funny too, bit of a split in it or something? Cheers, will take it to motohaus hopefully today!

[Icemaestro]

238378238378

Raceevolution sent me a picture of my fairings...anyone see anything wrong? I think they look pretty darn good! Should they have the silver wing thing on the front fairing? The photos I gave them did have that, it was on one of the vfr400 spec brochures...

[VFR400R]

238378238378

Raceevolution sent me a picture of my fairings...anyone see anything wrong? I think they look pretty darn good! Should they have the silver wing thing on the front fairing? The photos I gave them did have that, it was on one of the vfr400 spec brochures...If this is anything to go by - looks right to me. 238384 This is from this location http://www.vsource.org/VFR-RVF_files/Bvfr400r-mi.htm

Also google VFR400 Type 7 for a few more pics ;)

[Icemaestro]

If this is anything to go by - looks right to me. 238384 This is from this location http://www.vsource.org/VFR-RVF_files/Bvfr400r-mi.htm

the rest looks good, talking about the front cowel - see this photo: 238385 The photos I sent them had it, should I get them to do it? Has anyone else seen this on the front cowl, is it stock/normal?

[VFR400R]

Got it I see what you are talking about now :D

I see on that pic it looks to be black. This one silver/chrome like the VFR on side fairing.
238386
So which is correct? I just have a look at my NC30 Haynes manual and it has this colour scheme on the cover. So my mistake it is silver like you posted above :D my screen make that pic of yours look almost black.

[Icemaestro]

So what do you reckon, do I leave it as plain red? or insist they do it like the photo with the silver - wanting to get the bike back to stock as much as possible, just can't decide if I like the silver things or not! What do you think? silver wings or no silver wings?

[PirateJafa]

So what do you reckon, do I leave it as plain red? or insist they do it like the photo with the silver - wanting to get the bike back to stock as much as possible, just can't decide if I like the silver things or not! What do you think? silver wings or no silver wings?

Go as it is, then just add some aftermarket evil eyebrows.

238390

[sil3nt]

It seems a bit gimmicky. But hard to judge without seeing one in the flesh. You should be able to buy the decal if you ever did want it later on.

[sil3nt]

Go as it is, then just add some aftermarket evil eyebrows.

238390You shouldn't encourage people to copy you!

[Icemaestro]

Haha yeah I was just thinking it looks a little...cheap/crap to be honest!:-P but the option here is to get it done for free;-) so tempting...I think you're right...I can always get them done later, go with the plain red for now. Cheers!

[DrunkenMistake]

I would be super keen to add some of those eyebrows haha ;)

[gatch]

Yup did that, getting clicking/catchIng coming from the left side bearing, can see it moving funny too, bit of a split in it or something? Cheers, will take it to motohaus hopefully today!

Once the external seal that runs on the axle breaks down your bearing is toast. The rubber "seals" on the bearing are little more than a shield to keep the pathetic amount of grease the manufacturer adds in. And to keep large bits of debris out. They won't keep out dust and water.

[DrunkenMistake]

Do you guys know where I can get my chubby little fingers on a rear suspension reservoir, I have seen lots of cool looking remote reservoir's on some VFR's from googling and forum trawling, just wanted to know if these are an after market product or something completely custom

[Icemaestro]

Soo...after putting in my fuel tap rebuild kit...fuel still comes out in the on position. Brand new diaphragms and spring..why would it be doing this?...

[DrunkenMistake]

Soo...after putting in my fuel tap rebuild kit...fuel still comes out in the on position. Brand new diaphragms and spring..why would it be doing this?...

Check the float hasnt come off?

[HenryDorsetCase]

Do you guys know where I can get my chubby little fingers on a rear suspension reservoir, I have seen lots of cool looking remote reservoir's on some VFR's from googling and forum trawling, just wanted to know if these are an after market product or something completely custom

buy an Ohlins shock, it comes with one.

[Icemaestro]

Check the float hasnt come off?

Float?was just the fuel tap. Turned out the replacement small diaphragm seems to be a bit crooked and wasn't sealing it off right? put the old small one on with the new big one and new spring and works great. Idles much better too

Now noticing fuel starvation 11000rpm at middle and greater throttle - does anyone know, does the vacuum increase as the rpms/throttle increases? cause it could be that my vacuum tube is a bit munted (the tube had been cut short and a screw in it so had to connect a bit more tubing to it that was a bit long) and maybe not puling the diaphragm out enough at high rpms/throttle?

[Icemaestro]

Do you guys know where I can get my chubby little fingers on a rear suspension reservoir, I have seen lots of cool looking remote reservoir's on some VFR's from googling and forum trawling, just wanted to know if these are an after market product or something completely custom

Don't the post 92 vfr's come with the remote reservoir as stock? Talking to AJ at motohaus in pt chev when he did the bearings the other day and he might have some spare parts like that (he said he has 5 or so vfr's in various states of repair)

[DrunkenMistake]

Uh yeah I have a 91 and it has the remote res but I mean I have seen pictures of ones that look like redbull cans, and things like that, I cant even find a picture now haha

[PirateJafa]

Don't the post 92 vfr's come with the remote reservoir as stock? Talking to AJ at motohaus in pt chev when he did the bearings the other day and he might have some spare parts like that (he said he has 5 or so vfr's in various states of repair)

Not just repair - he's got a epic viffer/riffer trackbike project underway.

Am thoroughly looking forward to seeing it when he finishes it.

[Icemaestro]

Not just repair - he's got a epic viffer/riffer trackbike project underway.

Am thoroughly looking forward to seeing it when he finishes it.

Ahh right! Haha oops..mine was a track bike and is being turned back into a road bike...with better suspension :-D.

You're not looking at ones looking like this are you? The reservoir off the RS250? Thats what I have on mine, and I'm told its everything you want in a racing rear shock :-P (certainly very adjustable, though shorties like me have some issues with it jacking the rear up so much)http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss236/Rocketraz1982/motor007.jpg

[jono035]

Don't the post 92 vfr's come with the remote reservoir as stock? Talking to AJ at motohaus in pt chev when he did the bearings the other day and he might have some spare parts like that (he said he has 5 or so vfr's in various states of repair)

Yeah, one of those is mine. Cost $500 to get the bottom exhaust clamps fixed and a split seam on the can welded/polished.

The job looks pretty damn good, but If I had of known it was going to cost that, I think I would have got one of the Tyga race kits instead and just eaten the extra cost for that + jets.

[Icemaestro]

Oh bugger! Ouch..though if he had to take the exhaust off..heard it's a mish to get on and off, and itl all be the labour..I used to have a whole lot of spare jets too - left most of the 120's at racefactory's house last time I think.

He was really reasonable for the bearing..35$, 10 of before gst of that for the bearing..

And he has 5 of his own vfrs apparently :-p lol

[jono035]

Oh bugger! Ouch..though if he had to take the exhaust off..heard it's a mish to get on and off, and itl all be the labour..I used to have a whole lot of spare jets too - left most of the 120's at racefactory's house last time I think.

He was really reasonable for the bearing..35$, 10 of before gst of that for the bearing..

And he has 5 of his own vfrs apparently :-p lol

The exhaust isn't too bad in of itself, the difficult bits are opening the clamp that holds the downpipe for the rear cylinders to the headers and then removing the rear cylinder headers (although I cheated and just pulled the heads).

I guess he probably would have had to split that rear joint, so yeah, probably paying a lot for 'pain in the ass' time. Just wish AJ had of been able to give me a better ballpark at the start is all. Oh well, live and learn!

[gatch]

The exhaust isn't too bad in of itself, the difficult bits are opening the clamp that holds the downpipe for the rear cylinders to the headers and then removing the rear cylinder headers (although I cheated and just pulled the heads).

I guess he probably would have had to split that rear joint, so yeah, probably paying a lot for 'pain in the ass' time. Just wish AJ had of been able to give me a better ballpark at the start is all. Oh well, live and learn!

It's hard to quote jobs like that. As you can quote the worst case scenario and have your customer go "EEK fuck off".. Or you can quote what is ideal and lose lots of money on the job if it is rusted to hell and everything turns to shit.. $500 gst inclusive ? Whats that 5-6 hrs labor ? plus materials.. Would seem pretty good to me.

[jono035]

It's hard to quote jobs like that. As you can quote the worst case scenario and have your customer go "EEK fuck off".. Or you can quote what is ideal and lose lots of money on the job if it is rusted to hell and everything turns to shit.. $500 gst inclusive ? Whats that 5-6 hrs labor ? plus materials.. Would seem pretty good to me.

Yeah, I'm pretty familiar with that feeling, but I guess my clients don't let me get away without providing at least a rough estimate. It's part of being in the business.

It was a complex job, to be sure, and it was done well. I should have asked a few more questions, really. $100 of that was transport for the bike, which would have been a known cost. The other $450, well it was commented that it was pretty standard and that my initial guess of $200 was pretty funny, so there's not that much room in there, really.

If he had of guessed low and it had of blown out due to complications, that would have been a different story, as would have a rough ballpark range. It was no skin off his nose whether I chose to get the exhaust welded or chose to buy a new one.

Oh well, water under the bridge. Maybe I'm just grumpy because I'm stuck on a bloody scooter! :violin:

Edit: Not meaning to rag on anyone, in total I'm happy with AJ's work and would still recommend him to anyone, but getting costs for various things out of him can be tough work.

[PirateJafa]

Edit: Not meaning to rag on anyone, in total I'm happy with AJ's work and would still recommend him to anyone, but getting costs for various things out of him can be tough work.

In all fairness... I'd also be a bit hesitant to quote on any work on a bike that has done over 100,000km, and has passed through the hands of god only knows how many owners, and has hit the ground a couple of times with each one to boot!

[jono035]

In all fairness... I'd also be a bit hesitant to quote on any work on a bike that has done over 100,000km, and has passed through the hands of god only knows how many owners, and has hit the ground a couple of times with each one to boot!

I still never said quote. I was after an informal comment like 'If you're lucky, you'll get away less than $400, probably more though'.

[DrunkenMistake]

Hey guys, im still having a clutch problem, I missed a gear today and found it incredibly hard to get going, I gave it heaps of gas and it was as if i had let the clutch out too fast, but I hadnt. Slipping and that sorta stuff would be caused by worn clutch plates? and maybe an old filter and oil?

[motorbyclist]

You shouldn't encourage people to copy you!

He's not - you'll be copying me :bleh:


Float?was just the fuel tap. Turned out the replacement small diaphragm seems to be a bit crooked and wasn't sealing it off right? put the old small one on with the new big one and new spring and works great. Idles much better too

Now noticing fuel starvation 11000rpm at middle and greater throttle - does anyone know, does the vacuum increase as the rpms/throttle increases? cause it could be that my vacuum tube is a bit munted (the tube had been cut short and a screw in it so had to connect a bit more tubing to it that was a bit long) and maybe not puling the diaphragm out enough at high rpms/throttle?

jesus.

is the vacuum cylinder running lean too?

get a new vacuum line. Ask nicely and I'll see if i've got any left in the shed


I still never said quote. I was after an informal comment like 'If you're lucky, you'll get away less than $400, probably more though'.

and I bet he's been stung by exactly that in the past


Hey guys, im still having a clutch problem, I missed a gear today and found it incredibly hard to get going, I gave it heaps of gas and it was as if i had let the clutch out too fast, but I hadnt. Slipping and that sorta stuff would be caused by worn clutch plates? and maybe an old filter and oil?

what?

old oil and filter wouldn't have much to do with it but you should be doing those anyway....

[DrunkenMistake]

what?

old oil and filter wouldn't have much to do with it but you should be doing those anyway....

Yuh, Changed the Oil and Filter, Turns out it was never changed like I was told, probably should have changed it when I originally brought the bike anyway, it was probably 10k overdue haha, Seems to have actually improved alot of my little problems including the clutch problem.

[Icemaestro]

He's not - you'll be copying me :bleh:
jesus.

is the vacuum cylinder running lean too?

get a new vacuum line. Ask nicely and I'll see if i've got any left in the shed


Quite likely. That would explain the feeling better - like it runs on 3 occasionally when pulling hard but not all the time...
Mate that'd be awesome, I have tubes of many kinds, but all of em were a tad too short. Choice of beer?chocolate bikkies?

Still more concerned about the hydrolocking though (happened again once yesterday, fuel tap still working fine, must have been the fuel in the line/float). When the stars align and have a sunny day when I have free time the carbs'll come off and I'll check the float seat/needle again and do what you suggested.

[racefactory]

How many L/100km km/L are you guys getting on your V4's at the moment and with what sort of riding?

[DrunkenMistake]

Hey guys, My VFR400 NC30 is restricted darn it, can anyone help me out with unrestricting it? Just had it at the MCR Dyno shootout and I got 52.39 HP and my CBR250 got 38.8

[sil3nt]

The only restriction that came on VFR was a 180kph speed limiter for japanese models. Wikipedia says otherwise but wikipedia is wrong i believe.

http://www.vsource.org/VFR-RVF_files/NC30De-restriction.htm

52HP sounds a little low (not much though) but were there any other 400s to compare with? Or 250s to compare with?

No point chasing a higher number if the dyno reads low.

[racefactory]

Yeah you can only compare with the same dyno.

If it really is low, maybe your main jets are not right, air filter dirty, induction setup bad etc.

[DrunkenMistake]

They said they had a problem getting it to red, apparently it would flutter before it got to redline indicating it had some kind of rev limiter I assumed this would be due to the restiction, but it says on my Dyno sheet, 52.39HP and 183km/h.

And my 250 put out 38.8HP and 157km/h and the 250 had no such problems, I can take a photo and upload the dyno sheet

[DrunkenMistake]

239404

There it is there.

[sil3nt]

Yeah it seems you have the 180kph limiter. Read the link i posted on how to get rid of it. 52HP doesn't mean a whole lot unless you get something to compare it too. Clean the carbs and air filter and go back to see if you get better numbers.

I wouldn't worry about numbers though. Just be happy your 20year old bike still runs strong!

[DrunkenMistake]

Yeah it seems you have the 180kph limiter. Read the link i posted on how to get rid of it. 52HP doesn't mean a whole lot unless you get something to compare it too. Clean the carbs and air filter and go back to see if you get better numbers.

I wouldn't worry about numbers though. Just be happy your 20year old bike still runs strong!

Haha yeah ae, it has a new K & N filter and I have recently done the Carbs,its running stock though, so I would assume freeing up the system with a better exhaust etc would increase a little

[racefactory]

Best dyno test if you are worried about peak numbers is down the quarter mile really.

Practice your launches and aim for late 12's 13 second (70kg rider). If you can't get a 13 something is wrong.

[DrunkenMistake]

Best dyno test if you are worried about peak numbers is down the quarter mile really.

Practice your launches and aim for late 12's 13 second (70kg rider). If you can't get a 13 something is wrong.


70kg rider. Well there is your first problem lmao.

[Icemaestro]

Is There anyone on here from welly who knows what they're doing and is able to check out an rvf for me? http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Sports/auction-374891785.htm

[DrunkenMistake]

In Duds town sorry,

Hey how did you get on with those fairings? Im looking at getting some depending on your review haha

[Icemaestro]

I've sent the guy photos/a video of them, he replied wednesday saying he was getting back to me in a couple of days. Sent them an email this evening asking what was happening.
All good. So tempted by the RVF!:-P on the bright side, my VFR seems sorted now! I just loved the clutch and look of racefactory's RVF!:-P

[DrunkenMistake]

I've sent the guy photos/a video of them, he replied wednesday saying he was getting back to me in a couple of days. Sent them an email this evening asking what was happening.
All good. So tempted by the RVF!:-P on the bright side, my VFR seems sorted now! I just loved the clutch and look of racefactory's RVF!:-P

Haha, I sent them an email a while ago and they still haven't replied, I might look at getting some fibre glass ones from Just fairings and getting a fibre glass tail off Tyga or something, I was just looking at a cheaper painted alternative then looking at getting the tyga tail after and just getting it painted to match, so im just waiting to see how you get on haha

[Icemaestro]

I said in my email to them that I had someone waiting to see how my fairings got on before deciding to buy them..hopefully it will motivate them to pay up or sort them out quickly! Yeah the tyga rear (two seat) looks real good. 600$USD though is quite a bit!!

[DrunkenMistake]

I said in my email to them that I had someone waiting to see how my fairings got on before deciding to buy them..hopefully it will motivate them to pay up or sort them out quickly! Yeah the tyga rear (two seat) looks real good. 600$USD though is quite a bit!!

http://tyga-performance.com/site/product_info.php?cPath=72_83_148_512&products_id=1829 is the one I want and the seat cowl for it, and yah its a little pricey but im not to concerned on sinking money into it, its essential my bike is at least a 5 year bike as I need to clear my loan before I can even look at another bike haha, Im also going to invest in a full race exhaust system minus the silencer as I can get one made up here as a cash job cheaper and look just as good and maybe a Igitech Programmable CDI, came highly recommended off the 400greyimport forum, that along with a new chain and a sprocket change (I want more acceleration than top speed) it should be a nice wee weapon to ride haha

[motorbyclist]

How many L/100km km/L are you guys getting on your V4's at the moment and with what sort of riding?

I get around 18 km/L on the RVF, but used to get 20k/L on my VFR (both communting and on open road)

the VFR also got about 10-20% better mileage out of BP98 than any other fuel, while the RVF doesn't seem to care


239404

There it is there.

wtf? Why is that power against wheel speed?

Shouldn't there be a torque curve and engine RPM?

If it was topping out why not just dyno it in first or third gear?

the vfr has an easily defeatable 180kph speedlimiter that rather violently cuts ignition to the rear cylinders. The RVF is much more gentle/smarter and just ceases to accelerate. They both do about 220-230 stock without limiter

[DrunkenMistake]

I get around 18 km/L on the RVF, but used to get 20k/L on my VFR (both communting and on open road)

the VFR also got about 10-20% better mileage out of BP98 than any other fuel, while the RVF doesn't seem to care



wtf? Why is that power against wheel speed?

Shouldn't there be a torque curve and engine RPM?

If it was topping out why not just dyno it in first or third gear?

the vfr has an easily defeatable 180kph speedlimiter that rather violently cuts ignition to the rear cylinders. The RVF is much more gentle/smarter and just ceases to accelerate. They both do about 220-230 stock without limiter
Got it all sorted out now,

and it was a Dyno shoot out so it was hp vs wheel speed.,

[koba]

They both do about 220-230 stock without limiter

Really?
<tenhappylittlecharacters>

[DrunkenMistake]

Really?
<tenhappylittlecharacters>

I would have said they probably top out around 210 if your using stock gearing etc.

[motorbyclist]

the needle stops at 3o'clock but the revs will keep climbing

[motorbyclist]

http://www.hondarvf.com/nc30-specifications

[sil3nt]

I am willing to bet that a stock standard VFR/RVF will not reach 230kph.

[gatch]

I am willing to bet that a stock standard VFR/RVF will not reach 230kph.

As am I.

10 char

[DrunkenMistake]

I am willing to bet that a stock standard VFR/RVF will not reach 230kph.

According to gearing commander 208 is the top on stock set up.
If I remember right.

Unless you hit a downhill slope at 200..

[motorbyclist]

Well it isn't going to be hard to find out.... I'd be keen to go to a trackday and get someone with a working speedometer to follow down a straight - my NC35 is stock standard, except for the fibreglass fairing I use for the track and the 51,000Km on the clock....

edit: I reckon 220 isn't out of the question

[koba]

Well it isn't going to be hard to find out.... I'd be keen to go to a trackday and get someone with a working speedometer to follow down a straight - my NC35 is stock standard, except for the fibreglass fairing I use for the track and the 51,000Km on the clock....

edit: I reckon 220 isn't out of the question

www.cliffhanger.org.nz

[koba]

I am willing to bet that a stock standard VFR/RVF will not reach 230kph.


As am I.

10 char

Not a shit show!

[sil3nt]

Well it isn't going to be hard to find out.... I'd be keen to go to a trackday and get someone with a working speedometer to follow down a straight - my NC35 is stock standard, except for the fibreglass fairing I use for the track and the 51,000Km on the clock....

edit: I reckon 220 isn't out of the questionGPS or speedgun of some sort. Hell do it on the motorway :bleh:

None of this speedo crap!

[jono035]

One of the things to bear in mind is that the stock rev counter is a bit out as well, commonly. The Ignitech programmable CDI that I have has the ability to adjust the output pulse train to the rev counter to bring it back into line. This makes it pretty difficult to guess what the top speed is without using something external.

For me, back straight of puke was at about 13k RPM, but that's with the front sprocket dropped down a tooth, and unknown accuracy tach. Not to mention, I wouldn't actually know what the hell my tire circumference was at that point, anyway.

Just found my spreadsheet that I used to work our how much change the front sprocket was going to make. With standard 15:40 sprockets and 6th gear being 1.318, the limiter is at 234km/hr with standard tires. With the 14:40 sprocket, that'd be 220 and 13k would work out at 195km/hr...

195km/hr down the back straight... Doesn't sound anywhere near as impressive.

[motorbyclist]

www.cliffhanger.org.nz

I dunno, that would be uphill wouldn't it?


With standard 15:40 sprockets and 6th gear being 1.318, the limiter is at 234km/hr with standard tires.

right... who's got a gps and who's going to the track?

[DrunkenMistake]

I just dropped a tooth at the front and went up two in the back and I worked out my speedo was out by 12.4% , waiting on my ignitech CDI to arrive also.

[Newo]

They said they had a problem getting it to red, apparently it would flutter before it got to redline indicating it had some kind of rev limiter I assumed this would be due to the restiction, but it says on my Dyno sheet, 52.39HP and 183km/h.

And my 250 put out 38.8HP and 157km/h and the 250 had no such problems, I can take a photo and upload the dyno sheet

Maybe I'm miss-understanding something here, But I'm sure your cbr should go faster than 157km/h. Because I know for definate that I've had the needle hit the end atleast a couple of times since I've owned mine.

[DrunkenMistake]

Its not the top speed of the bike, its the top speed of fourth gear I had mine up to 201 on the GPS.

[jono035]

right... who's got a gps and who's going to the track?

I'll be keen as hell once summer rolls around again for another ART day, so that'd be a good opportunity.

For the record, I meant that as it being technically possible before hitting the limiter, not that the bike could actually do it ;) Mine at least was completely wound out by about 1/3 of the way down the straight and wasn't going to get above 13k.

[DrunkenMistake]

I said in my email to them that I had someone waiting to see how my fairings got on before deciding to buy them..hopefully it will motivate them to pay up or sort them out quickly! Yeah the tyga rear (two seat) looks real good. 600$USD though is quite a bit!!

Have you herd back from Race Evo yet?

[vifferman]

:blink:

I reckon this forum is misnamed; there's a very skewed representation of Vifferdom in here.
:facepalm:
Thank goodness (and Miguel Mayo) for VFR Discussion...

[Icemaestro]

Have you herd back from Race Evo yet?

Yup. They've said that they reckon in can be adjusted easily to fit, only thing is I have to pay to have thta done (he hasn't said how much) - I could easily drill holes / file stuff better, but the tab not matching up thing? I quote:

"Sorry it has taken so long for me to get back to you. I was waiting on another customer to confirm how his kit fits. He purchased a kit for his bike just after you. From what we heard his kit and the all fairings for this make and model does fits.
Looking at your videos and images, I appears to me and other staff that the kit can be made to fit with minor adjustments. As we mentioned on the site "We guarantee our fitting with little or no fitting adjustments""
I replied saying I can easily fix holes etc, its the fact there is no mount for the rear light and the tabs aren't lining up and he said

"Sorry it has taken so long for me to get back to you. I was waiting on another customer to confirm how his kit fits. He purchased a kit for his bike just after you. From what we heard his kit and the all fairings for this make and model does fits.
Looking at your videos and images, I appears to me and other staff that the kit can be made to fit with minor adjustments. As we mentioned on the site "We guarantee our fitting with little or no fitting adjustments""

THoughts?

[DrunkenMistake]

thats shit man,
Does everything line up though? besides the tabs? I know a really good plastic wielder who can make me tabs and all if need be, I just dont want to sink money into something thats gonna be a super prick to put on

[jono035]

Icemaestro - What's this about fairings? You getting a set from RaceEvolution? I've had a bit of a troll back through the thread but couldn't find anything.

Mine are being shipped at the moment. I think I'm just going to get AJ to put them on, I'm kinda done stuffing around and just want to be able to ride the bloody thing again.

[Icemaestro]

Already got a set. Tried to put them straight on and was appalled at how tabs weren't lining up (there are some bits where there are like two spaced bits on each side of the fairing that line up like zips, bits that are supposed to go underneath but are at the same level, no mount for the rear brake light etc.).

Pain looks real good from a distance, they did a real good job I think, over run here and there, but have to look really close to tell.

I'll see what he wants to charge to fit them for me, as I suspect if I got someone else to do it and they still didn't work he'd say it's my fault, stuck with them.

[jono035]

Already got a set. Tried to put them straight on and was appalled at how tabs weren't lining up (there are some bits where there are like two spaced bits on each side of the fairing that line up like zips, bits that are supposed to go underneath but are at the same level, no mount for the rear brake light etc.).

Pain looks real good from a distance, they did a real good job I think, over run here and there, but have to look really close to tell.

I'll see what he wants to charge to fit them for me, as I suspect if I got someone else to do it and they still didn't work he'd say it's my fault, stuck with them.

Hmmmm, that's an interesting one. Definitely keep me posted, hopefully AJ will be able to line mine up easily enough, although I'm guessing it'll be exactly the same set of problems.

Apparently they were delivered this morning, so I'll have to make my way around to Motohaus tomorrow and see what the story is.

[DrunkenMistake]

Hmmmm, that's an interesting one. Definitely keep me posted, hopefully AJ will be able to line mine up easily enough, although I'm guessing it'll be exactly the same set of problems.

Apparently they were delivered this morning, so I'll have to make my way around to Motohaus tomorrow and see what the story is.

Could you put a post up about them? Im soon to be getting some but if its going to be a massive hassle I might as well get fibre glass ones

[motorbyclist]

I have a (used) set and a half collecting dust, 1989 livery (red white and two-tone blue stripes)

[DrunkenMistake]

I have a (used) set and a half collecting dust, 1989 livery (red white and two-tone blue stripes)

Any damage?

[motorbyclist]

http://imgur.com/a/6nHj0#S2Tg4

500 for fairings, 300 for tank, 750 if you take the lot

there is a complete set there for mounting, but i'm not 100% sure about the red colour match between the two sets as laid out in the first photo

I bought all this days before my nc30 was nicked!

EDIT: I'm in auckland and can drop off with the van if you're not too far from my travels

[koba]

I dunno, that would be uphill wouldn't it?



right... who's got a gps and who's going to the track?

They also have sprints.

Flat run for about 2.2km or something silly.
One can get a higher top speed than on a track.
And it is timed.

[Icemaestro]

Update on the raceevolution fairings, the guy has emailed me to say that "As for the tail, we will most likely carry out a refund on the tail :D".... Given I ordered a full kit from them, custom painted, can he do that (ony give a refund of half the product)?

[sil3nt]

Get a full refund.

[racefactory]

Everyone take your NC30s along to Pukekohe on the 18th, let's make it a day of V4 madness. 90 bucks the whole day. It would be insane to hear all those V4s droning down the straight from the pits.

[gatch]

Everyone take your NC30s along to Pukekohe on the 18th, let's make it a day of V4 madness. 90 bucks the whole day. It would be insane to hear all those V4s droning down the straight from the pits.

Would be nice to be sitting on the pit entrance and hear the motors loaded up as people are coming up the hill.

Remember to keep the throttle pinned from the hairpin right through till you brake for turn 2.

Pussies.

[jono035]

Wow, that's some bad news there.

Hopefully mine aren't too hard to fit. AJ mentioned that he has had some luck before mixing and matching the old/new parts.

He wasn't planning to do the tail, but unfortunately the stock tail section on my bike is getting quite brittle and has a ton of cracks through it. He mentioned that he needs the center piece because the RaceEvolution supplied ones don't have correct mounts for the brake lights, which again is unfortunate as mine has a broken tab. Could always grab it off him next week and solvent weld on a new tab, I guess.

I'm still optimistic that it will turn out for the best, but at this point, I'd probably be looking elsewhere if I were doing it over. Anyone know if JustFairings have a 2-up tail piece? I notice under their 'road fairings' section they only have the front pieces.

[sil3nt]

Everyone take your NC30s along to Pukekohe on the 18th, let's make it a day of V4 madness. 90 bucks the whole day. It would be insane to hear all those V4s droning down the straight from the pits.You pay and i will be there! Do they check licences? Should have my full by then but just curious.

[Icemaestro]

Wow, that's some bad news there.
mentioned that he needs the center piece because the RaceEvolution supplied ones don't have correct mounts for the brake lights, which again is unfortunate as mine has a broken tab. Could always grab it off him next week and solvent weld on a new tab, I guess..

I have a spare h bit that the tail light goes onto. Bit scratched and one tab mission maybe but works..

[jono035]

I have a spare h bit that the tail light goes onto. Bit scratched and one tab mission maybe but works..

Thanks, I think I've got a spare with a missing tab hanging in the shed too, but I'll keep that in mind.

[racefactory]

You pay and i will be there! Do they check licences? Should have my full by then but just curious.

No they don't check licenses. No wof/rego/license required- just cruise on and have fun.

[DrunkenMistake]

Just changed my exhaust from stock to the full tyga stainless race system,
remind me to NEVER remove the stock exhaust system from an NC30, that and do it with Tigertim20 who somehow managed to crush my hand under the subframe and rear wheel after the shock was removed haha
Sounds SWEET.. wouldnt pass a WOF though... :L

[imdying]

Just changed my exhaust from stock to the full tyga stainless race system,
remind me to NEVER remove the stock exhaust system from an NC30, that and do it with Tigertim20 who somehow managed to crush my hand under the subframe and rear wheel after the shock was removed haha
Sounds SWEET.. wouldnt pass a WOF though... :L*chants* Video video video!

[tigertim20]

Just changed my exhaust from stock to the full tyga stainless race system,
remind me to NEVER remove the stock exhaust system from an NC30, that and do it with Tigertim20 who somehow managed to crush my hand under the subframe and rear wheel after the shock was removed haha
Sounds SWEET.. wouldnt pass a WOF though... :L

yeah what a cunt of a fucking job that was. especially when SOMEONE doesnt have any fvcking universal socket joints mumble mumble drunkenmistake mumble.

Looks good, sounds awesome. the video doesnt really do it justice for how is sounds though, great burble to it. well worth fucking DM's hand up.:woohoo:

[DrunkenMistake]

*chants* Video video video!

My Exhaust sounds. Vid quality is shit I dont know why I think its Sony Vegas, but the sound is primo.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H62T2zRGIns

[imdying]

All good, I'll go home and watch it with my eyes closed :woohoo:

[koba]

Would be nice to be sitting on the pit entrance and hear the motors loaded up as people are coming up the hill.

Remember to keep the throttle pinned from the hairpin right through till you brake for turn 2.

Pussies.

Ahh, its a shame circumstances aren't different. I'd be quite keen to prove that theory.

[rustys]

Not to shure whether i am in the right thread here.
I have just bought a reasonably tidy RVF400 and am looking for a nice sounding Aftermarket Muffler, any one got any ideas and what sort of prices am i looking at. I want to keep the original pipe as is as its pretty mint.
Also i will be looking for a nice Tinted screen as well.
Cheers

[motorbyclist]

there's usually someone on trademe selling cheap ones for upwards of $200

You could give Virgin Mufflers a call and get one made ($400ish)

whatever you do, get it tuned afterwards; going to a straight through will require a re-jet and balance and for that you'll want a mechanic who's seen a vfr before

[gatch]

Ahh, its a shame circumstances aren't different. I'd be quite keen to prove that theory.

I can do it on a 55yr old 180 odd kg Norton Domi. KB warriors should be able to do it with their eyes closed.

[Icemaestro]

Not to shure whether i am in the right thread here.
I have just bought a reasonably tidy RVF400 and am looking for a nice sounding Aftermarket Muffler, any one got any ideas and what sort of prices am i looking at. I want to keep the original pipe as is as its pretty mint.
Also i will be looking for a nice Tinted screen as well.
Cheers

Did you buy the recent one on TM down in welly?

[rustys]

Did you buy the recent one on TM down in welly?

Yes thats right i did, and am very pleased with it, very original never been droped everything good about it. Has come up mint, with a good clean up.
Tyres were 10 years old, so have got a new set for it, wheels are off and are in the Powdercoaters, so will look chick when finnished. So will be looking for a bit more bits to bling it up a bit.

[sil3nt]

Yes thats right i did, and am very pleased with it, very original never been droped everything good about it. Has come up mint, with a good clean up.
Tyres were 10 years old, so have got a new set for it, wheels are off and are in the Powdercoaters, so will look chick when finnished. So will be looking for a bit more bits to bling it up a bit.How much for powder coating the wheels? From what i understand powder coating is pretty cheap.

[rustys]

How much for powder coating the wheels? From what i understand powder coating is pretty cheap.

Its the only way to go, i get them finely sand blasted for $50 then Powder coated for $75 a pair, that was what the last set cost me for a CBR 250RR.

[Icemaestro]

Yes thats right i did, and am very pleased with it, very original never been droped everything good about it. Has come up mint, with a good clean up.
Tyres were 10 years old, so have got a new set for it, wheels are off and are in the Powdercoaters, so will look chick when finnished. So will be looking for a bit more bits to bling it up a bit.

Nice, so jealous...was very tempted but 1) its in welly and 2) haven't had the vfr long and 3) it is quite a lot of money to spend on a 20 year bike...even if they are amazing :-D

[DrunkenMistake]

Its the only way to go, i get them finely sand blasted for $50 then Powder coated for $75 a pair, that was what the last set cost me for a CBR 250RR.

how long does it take to have them sand blasted and powder coated? I want to do my rims but I only have a 2 day gap where I can be without my bike haha

[jono035]

how long does it take to have them sand blasted and powder coated? I want to do my rims but I only have a 2 day gap where I can be without my bike haha

I've had stuff for work powder coated and returned next day. Find a local company, swing past and have a chat, be prepared to make it worth their while for helping you out.

A week is probably more normal.

[DrunkenMistake]

I've had stuff for work powder coated and returned next day. Find a local company, swing past and have a chat, be prepared to make it worth their while for helping you out.

A week is probably more normal.

Sweet as, cheers for that.

[koba]

I can do it on a 55yr old 180 odd kg Norton Domi. KB warriors should be able to do it with their eyes closed.

Especially with the super amazing unique v4 engines.

[Icemaestro]

Jono - was it you who also had the raceevolution fairings? How were yours?

I've just got the bike back, the rear panel is still shocking, the two sides don't line up properly at the rear, can se it from a mile off, big gaps in the rear lights, the rear lock doesn't fit still (the guy him self has got a 'professional' to fit them btw), and naturally they have locked the seat so can't get the rear fairing off even. the bit below the pillion lock has a massive gap in it....

And to fix the mis aligned tabs on the side fairings (where it joined the front cowl)...they snapped them off...

And he said they couldn't fit the front mudguard because he reckons my forks are bent....(if that's true how come my current one is fine?...though he claimed that the current one rubs on the tire which it doesnt, except on the little bits of rubber sticking out that are from it being on the track)

And after this professional installation - 70% of the bolts still are sticking out 'cause the holes are'nt big enough...

Am I just being picky? Where should I go to from here? I've got the bike and everything at home right now - he wasn't there when I picked it up, I talked to him on the phone when I went to pick it up.

[DrunkenMistake]

post pictures? lol

[Icemaestro]

Will do tomorrow when it's light.

[DrunkenMistake]

Sweet as.

10 Char.

[Icemaestro]

post pictures? lol


240622240623240624240625240626240627

Rear bit how the panels don't line up
Inside front fairings showing where they've snapped off the bits to make them fit
Paint runs everywhere! Didn't notice so much before, but now they're on the bike and in sunlight..
more inside panel shot
Paint scheme doesn't line up with each other either
Shot of how the pillion lock is sitting (it is stuck there, can't move it, can't unlock the seat

[Steve Gauge]

Mate is this still carrying on, so this guy( race evolution ) told you to take to your bike to a so called professional (who did you take it to?) who has now broken tabs of the side fairings which most likely eventually blow off and has boggyed up the rest of your bike and your expected to except this , ,mate if he thinks this exceptable he isnt going to last long , man throw these shit not worth $300 fairings back in the box they came in tell him to get them picked up and refund you in full otherwise if you paid by visa get hold of them and get your money back that way ,what a joke ,he even states on his website a name you trust haaha-a name you can trust in china what a cock , serousily ice maestro you have been way to patient .this is unexceptable :tugger:

[Icemaestro]

On me saying to him I was unable to get the fairings to fit, taking photos, video etc, he said that HIS professional installer could do it....so it is HIS guy who has done this...

Have uploaded all the photos I have sent him here: http://s1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc379/Icemaestro/

and sent him an email saying this:

Hi,
Have taken photos after your professional fitting job. There is also a photo in there showing how the wheel and front mud guard don’t touch (#4), also shows the little nobbles of rubber left from the track.
Photos show as follows:

#5 = mismatched front radiator piece
#6, #23 = where you’ve just broken the tabs off to make them fit
#8. #20 = still no attachment for the side trim to screw into the fairings – I quote from your side “Complete with all internal fixings required”
#9, #19 = screws sitting out – when you are paying for professional fitting, this does not look like it has been fitted!
#10, #11, #12 – gaps etc between fairings, mis aligned fairings
#13, #14 – on seeing the fairings in sunlight, It is easy to see the paint runs all down the sides of the rear fairing
#15 – massive gaps between seat and fairing
#16 – Lock sitting out – it is jammed there, likely by the locking tab behind it, however I think it is probably this that means that the seat lock cannot be undone, and therefore I cannot get the pillion seat off to take the rear fairings off!
#18 = fairings not fitting together, mis aligned
#21 = fairing bulge where radiator tube should fit (it’s a stock part, can’t change the direction of it!) is off by 2-3cm
#22 = where you can see the broken tabs the installer has broken to get it to fit from the outside, not to mention the fairings still not fitting together properly
#24 – the front cowl doesn’t seem to be aligned properly as the light is pressed hard up against the top, not allowing the rubber coverings to go around it to prevent light spilling behind the dash – as a result, the area behind the dash is brightly lit at night when the lights are on, making it difficult to see
#26 the radiator gard is sitting ON the engine….
#27, #28 – now that the pieces are on the bike – can see the paint scheme doesn’t line up

To sum this up, as you have had the chance to professionally fit them yourself and have been unable to rectify the problems I pointed out as I was able to in the first place, I would like a full refund, or I will be taking this to the small claims court.
Not sure how as a biker yourself you can take so much money for such a shoddy job as these! How would you feel if painwork didn’t align, there were drip marks everywhere, tabs had to be broken off to just get fairings to sit together, yet still not align right, and be left with a bike where you can’t open the pillion seat or take the rear fairings off! (will need help figuring out how to do this by the way!)

Let me know of your decision, and also how I am to remove the rear fairings.

[Icemaestro]

Mate is this still carrying on, so this guy( race evolution ) told you to take to your bike to a so called professional (who did you take it to?) who has now broken tabs of the side fairings which most likely eventually blow off and has boggyed up the rest of your bike and your expected to except this , ,mate if he thinks this exceptable he isnt going to last long , man throw these shit not worth $300 fairings back in the box they came in tell him to get them picked up and refund you in full otherwise if you paid by visa get hold of them and get your money back that way ,what a joke ,he even states on his website a name you trust haaha-a name you can trust in china what a cock , serousily ice maestro you have been way to patient .this is unexceptable :tugger:

Thanks Steve :-P was thinking maybe I was asking too much, but for $948, plus the fee he wants to charge for his professional fitting them (because I said they wouldn't fit together), I would expect a better job than the ebay fairings I can get here for 4-500$ Delivered

[jono035]

Jono - was it you who also had the raceevolution fairings? How were yours?

I've just got the bike back, the rear panel is still shocking, the two sides don't line up properly at the rear, can se it from a mile off, big gaps in the rear lights, the rear lock doesn't fit still (the guy him self has got a 'professional' to fit them btw), and naturally they have locked the seat so can't get the rear fairing off even. the bit below the pillion lock has a massive gap in it....

And to fix the mis aligned tabs on the side fairings (where it joined the front cowl)...they snapped them off...

And he said they couldn't fit the front mudguard because he reckons my forks are bent....(if that's true how come my current one is fine?...though he claimed that the current one rubs on the tire which it doesnt, except on the little bits of rubber sticking out that are from it being on the track)

And after this professional installation - 70% of the bolts still are sticking out 'cause the holes are'nt big enough...

Am I just being picky? Where should I go to from here? I've got the bike and everything at home right now - he wasn't there when I picked it up, I talked to him on the phone when I went to pick it up.

I haven't got mine back yet, AJ was supposed to be fitting them last week but I forgot to ring up and find out how he got on.

I don't think you're being picky at all... The money he is charging is quite a lot more than you would expect to pay straight from china, by my understanding. This would lead me to believe that he was offering some form of service beyond ordering the things for you, which is what it appears he is doing...

I really don't know where to go from there though, and I hope like hell that mine aren't that bad.

That e-mail looks good. That's pretty much what I would be doing. If mine come out like that, I'll be having to think long and hard about what to do about it. I guess go the same route and get a set of fibreglass fairings.

And lol at 'professional'.

[Steve Gauge]

Thats unbeleivable him charging you for fitting these ,he calls this a successfuul fitting of fairings if hes so happy about it maybe he should put these photos on his website im dumb founded mate , I bet this isnt his only come back if I was him I would be shitting myself and I would get your money back as soon as possible because I think he will disappear soon , find out were he lives (you will need it to go to small claims )and go pay him avisit , im real interested to see what other people think mate if it wasnt such alot of money it would be funny . some people :mad:
p.s I think the same guy tried to put adds on kiwibiker last week but they got removed

[Icemaestro]

Yeah I saw those ads..was tempted to comment but someone beat me to it ;-) yes I have his address and all emails saved. We'll see what he says back! Ugh I've heard it's a nightmare going through things with the disputes tribunal :-p

Let us know jono how yours turn out..then at least either we'll have an example of good ones from him (and prove mine are faulty) or show that his stuff is just generally rubbish and can band together!

Cheers guys :-)

[HenryDorsetCase]

That's pretty bad all right.



__________________________________________________ ________________


Change of topic.

You guys were talking earlier about the airbox snorkel. Can someone post a pic of one?

Reason for asking is I took my track only VFR out for a Sunday pootle today (tsk tsk, I know) and gave it a bit of a seeing to. It has a light stumble/miss at about 10k rpm, but still pulls to redline at 14k. I would like to try the airbox snorkel cos I dont think I have one on mine.

If you have one and want to get rid of it, sing out. Neither of the airboxes I have appear to have anything that might fit the description.

Oh yeah, no way would I have a sports bike on the road again: fark me it was uncomfortable to ride..... full pressup position, neck craned back, legs all squashed up, and the high kick to get on the bloody thing.... fine on track but terrible in traffic.

[Icemaestro]

The airbox snorkel? It's this bit here (taken from the web)http://www.hondarvf.com/workshop/modifications/airbox/airboxafter.jpg

Gave my spare to rf sorry..if your willing to pay aj from motohous
Should have a spare.

On the comfort side, does your track one have the modified rear shock or raised rear? Cause the stock ones I've sat on don't feel too bad!

[HenryDorsetCase]

The airbox snorkel? It's this bit here (taken from the web)http://www.hondarvf.com/workshop/modifications/airbox/airboxafter.jpg

Gave my spare to rf sorry..if your willing to pay aj from motohous
Should have a spare.

On the comfort side, does your track one have the modified rear shock or raised rear? Cause the stock ones I've sat on don't feel too bad!

thanks for that. Mine dont have it fo' sho'

I'm not used to riding with clipons now, plus I have an Ohlins shock which is longer than stock. No ground clearance issues now! (well, except when standing my arse is too close to the ground ;) )