VFR owners' thread, for VFRPS members and prospective members

[sil3nt]

Idle should be about 1800rpm from the Haynes manual.Sweet sounds good!

To be honest guys i think your bikes might need looking at if you need the choke to start it :bleh:

The previous owner did show me how he started it and he did use half choke. I just haven't needed to yet. I have only really started it while the outside temp is over 20 though.

[jono035]

Sweet sounds good!

To be honest guys i think your bikes might need looking at if you need the choke to start it :bleh:

The previous owner did show me how he started it and he did use half choke. I just haven't needed to yet. I have only really started it while the outside temp is over 20 though.

It's worth starting it with choke anyway, else you're running it hellishly lean until it warms up a bit.

Tried mine this morning, without choke it did catch easily but was barely ticking over at about 1200-1400rpm and sounded pretty unhappy about it.

[sil3nt]

It's worth starting it with choke anyway, else you're running it hellishly lean until it warms up a bit.

Tried mine this morning, without choke it did catch easily but was barely ticking over at about 1200-1400rpm and sounded pretty unhappy about it.Yep fair enough. Will choke it like i choke the mrs just enough to get her warmed up.

[HenryDorsetCase]

Yep fair enough. Will choke it like i choke the mrs just enough to get her warmed up.

I feel bad that I LOL'ed at that.

[jono035]

I feel bad that I LOL'ed at that.

You're not alone, there :p

[koba]

It's worth starting it with choke anyway, else you're running it hellishly lean until it warms up a bit.


Shit thats funny.

R.E. Valve shims. Gotta love my '21 and its screw adjusters!

[motorbyclist]

Standard starting procedure of a cold vfr is half/full choke no throttle...

in the summer they seem to start fine without choke but I always hold the revs around 2500-3000 for a few seconds to get all the fluids pumping and some heat in the motor, after which they seem to idle fine.

lean mix in a cold motor isn't an issue, and I'm pretty sure that's not the case anyway....

[ecko_nzed]

May be a stupid question :stupid:

But if the vacuum seal on the fuel tap is poked, would an RVF 400 leak fuel from any part of the carbs if the fuel tap was left on? In the past I've left the tap in the 'On' or 'Res' position as it tends to be a bit sticky and had no probs. went out the other day and there was a strong smell of petrol and a small pool of fuel under the bike. hoses aren't leaking, so I'm assuming that there must be sort of an overflow? :confused:

[gatch]

May be a stupid question :stupid:

But if the vacuum seal on the fuel tap is poked, would an RVF 400 leak fuel from any part of the carbs if the fuel tap was left on? In the past I've left the tap in the 'On' or 'Res' position as it tends to be a bit sticky and had no probs. went out the other day and there was a strong smell of petrol and a small pool of fuel under the bike. hoses aren't leaking, so I'm assuming that there must be sort of an overflow? :confused:

Have you per chance used Gull fuel lately ? Seals in the tap itself may be perished from the ethanol content..

[koba]

May be a stupid question :stupid:

But if the vacuum seal on the fuel tap is poked, would an RVF 400 leak fuel from any part of the carbs if the fuel tap was left on? In the past I've left the tap in the 'On' or 'Res' position as it tends to be a bit sticky and had no probs. went out the other day and there was a strong smell of petrol and a small pool of fuel under the bike. hoses aren't leaking, so I'm assuming that there must be sort of an overflow? :confused:

Probably just a bit of shit caught in the float valve preventing it from sealing properly, try turning off the fuel tap and draining a bit of fuel from the bottom of the float bowls.

[ecko_nzed]

Have you per chance used Gull fuel lately ? Seals in the tap itself may be perished from the ethanol content..

no Gulls around where I live, unless seagulls count :msn-wink:

[ecko_nzed]

Probably just a bit of shit caught in the float valve preventing it from sealing properly, try turning off the fuel tap and draining a bit of fuel from the bottom of the float bowls.

OK might have a crack at that this weekend.

Might source a new fuel tap too, cos this one is starting to piss me off.

[sil3nt]

Anyone got a link to a paddock stand that fits an NC30?

[HenryDorsetCase]

Anyone got a link to a paddock stand that fits an NC30?

http://www.bikelift.net/en/product/257/REAR-STAND-16.asp

available in NZ

[sil3nt]

http://www.bikelift.net/en/product/257/REAR-STAND-16.asp

available in NZSo this? http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/products/454-road_bike_stands/4550-bike_lift_rs16_rear_stand.aspx

$300 :facepalm:

[HenryDorsetCase]

So this? http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/products/454-road_bike_stands/4550-bike_lift_rs16_rear_stand.aspx

$300 :facepalm:

Steve Bridge does them too (F1 Eng/Rapidart)

http://rapidartnz.com/oscommerce/product_info.php?cPath=31&products_id=325&osCsid=81fce99c096b3ffbac64c59da3d39508

same price though. I think I paid $220 for mine a few years ago. Good bit of kit. But you know, it would need to be.....

Know any welders?

[sil3nt]

Anyone know where to get a cheap but decent clutch cable from? Apparently they are $80 (according to the guy i got the bike from) and Honda Hamilton should be coming back with a price soon. Looks like ebay has them for around $30 shipped to NZ and tyga is around $10 but with $60 shipping :blink:

[Warr]

Anyone know where to get a cheap but decent clutch cable from? .....
Presumably its the inner that is broken...
There are places that can replace the inner...
Proudlocks in Frankton used to do cable repairs.
If you can find a length of Inner Cable and the Nipples I could make it for you ..
Will send you a PM

[HenryDorsetCase]

Anyone know where to get a cheap but decent clutch cable from? Apparently they are $80 (according to the guy i got the bike from) and Honda Hamilton should be coming back with a price soon. Looks like ebay has them for around $30 shipped to NZ and tyga is around $10 but with $60 shipping :blink:

I am off tyga: my last order from them went MIA: thankfully not too expensive.

David Silver Spares? I got a throttle cable from them last order and it was about 12 squid.

here's the clutch cable

https://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/VFR400-NC30-%28JAPANESE%29/genuine-spares/part_22844/

do the royal mail thing, they dont charge VAT, and they're really quick. Ive got a lot of stuff from them over the years.

[sil3nt]

Just got my quote from Hamilton Honda for a service. I find the OEM part prices rather amusing.

$104 for an air filter! and $40 for each spark plug. Prices online are considerably lower than this.

But worst case scenario is looking at over a grand :facepalm: Most of that is labour which is no surprise. I should really learn how to do this shit myself!

Now i gotta start saving.

[HenryDorsetCase]

Anyone got a link to a paddock stand that fits an NC30?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Parts-for-sale/Stands/auction-353801471.htm


just saw taht on tardme

[sil3nt]

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Parts-for-sale/Stands/auction-353801471.htm


just saw taht on tardmeYep saw that as well. Didn't realise it was local. Might go check it out.

[motorbyclist]

Just got my quote from Hamilton Honda for a service. I find the OEM part prices rather amusing.

$104 for an air filter! and $40 for each spark plug. Prices online are considerably lower than this.

But worst case scenario is looking at over a grand :facepalm: Most of that is labour which is no surprise. I should really learn how to do this shit myself!

Now i gotta start saving.

full service kit for $125 (http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/parts/part_22860/)- air filter, oil filter with tool, 4 sparkplugs and sump plug washer

It is not hard to do yourself, or drop the bike at a mechanic with the parts. Use a guy who's worked on one before and it will save on labour and headaches.


May be a stupid question :stupid:

But if the vacuum seal on the fuel tap is poked, would an RVF 400 leak fuel from any part of the carbs if the fuel tap was left on? In the past I've left the tap in the 'On' or 'Res' position as it tends to be a bit sticky and had no probs. went out the other day and there was a strong smell of petrol and a small pool of fuel under the bike. hoses aren't leaking, so I'm assuming that there must be sort of an overflow? :confused:

Are you sure that seal is poked? normally that tends to prevent fuel from passing thru the tap. Answer to your question is "no, it should not leak. find the source."

My NC35 fuel tap sprung a leak for no clear reason, and the leaking tap left a puddle by the sidestand - swapped with a NC30 part and problem solved.

For the carbs to be dumping fuel the float valves/seals would have to be stuffed or dirty

[sil3nt]

full service kit for $125 (http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/parts/part_22860/)- air filter, oil filter with tool, 4 sparkplugs and sump plug washer

It is not hard to do yourself, or drop the bike at a mechanic with the parts. Use a guy who's worked on one before and it will save on labour and headaches.I saw the service kit. About $160 with shipping. Still a good price. Am considering doing it myself. Just really don't want to fuck it up! Its the valve clearances i want to check.

[sil3nt]

Just came back from a big ride. Hamilton - Huntly - Port Waikato - SH 22 - Huntly - Hamilton. 275ks and still havent hit reserve :blink:

[gatch]

Just came back from a big ride. Hamilton - Huntly - Port Waikato - SH 22 - Huntly - Hamilton. 275ks and still havent hit reserve :blink:

You haven't put gas in it for 275 km ?

Really ?

[ecko_nzed]

Just came back from a big ride. Hamilton - Huntly - Port Waikato - SH 22 - Huntly - Hamilton. 275ks and still havent hit reserve :blink:

275 KM :shit:

you know they redline at 15 thou and don't start getting interesting till abt 9 thou :laugh:

it was the NC30 you were on and not the kawka?

[sil3nt]

275 KM :shit:

you know they redline at 15 thou and don't start getting interesting till abt 9 thou :laugh:

it was the NC30 you were on and not the kawka?Haha yep. Had a few blasts at 9k+ but mostly was following the gf in 6th gear doing between 70 and 90.

Kept the revs right down when i realised i was at 200ks and still 50ks from a gas station :facepalm:

[ecko_nzed]

Haha yep. Had a few blasts at 9k+ but mostly was following the gf in 6th gear doing between 70 and 90.

Kept the revs right down when i realised i was at 200ks and still 50ks from a gas station :facepalm:
well u hav way more throttle control than me :2thumbsup, best I got on a tank was 200.8 KM as it spluttered into the servo bone dry.

[sil3nt]

So i left the driveway got 100 metres down the road and it needed to go to reserve. Took 13 litres to fill up. 276ks on 13 litres. Pretty damn good!

Love riding this bike. Really need to take it to the track. Bit scared how far i can push it on the road before pegs start scraping. Don't really want to lever the bike off the ground. Still massive fun in the corners.

[koba]

Don't really want to lever the bike off the ground.
Don't worry, you won't.

Unless it has silly rigid ones. Even with fixed pegs you probably won't.

HOWEVER, if you are scraping it on the road you need to lean off more, if you ARE leaning right off and still scraping you should probably be on the track...

[sil3nt]

Don't worry, you won't.

Unless it has silly rigid ones. Even with fixed pegs you probably won't.

HOWEVER, if you are scraping it on the road you need to lean off more, if you ARE leaning right off and still scraping you should probably be on the track...My thinking as well! Will get some better pants then hit the track. As you can tell from my mileage im hardly racing around the roads :lol:

[koba]

My thinking as well! Will get some better pants then hit the track. As you can tell from my mileage im hardly racing around the roads :lol:

True, I wouldn't have thought getting that far on a tank was possible!

Good gear is a really good idea, it doesn't have to cost the earth if you are careful but most really cheap new stuff isn't that great.

[gatch]

You SHOULDN'T scrape the pegs on the ground on one of these unless you hit a bump mid turn..

Only times mine have touched down I ended up taking a quick lie down..:facepalm:

[DrunkenMistake]

Hey guys,
So about.. I dont know lets say a week ago, I brought a VFR400 NC30, now im not gonna lie, I have probably been fapping about this bike since I first started riding road bikes, And I gotta say, I have NO regrets buying this baby, I have a few Q's and A's im hoping you guys can help me answer,

first of all is, I found the clutch doesn't fully engage, so a friend and I adjusted the clutch but without a hell of a lot of difference, (as a note, my friend is far more motorbike/mechanically minded than I am :)) so Im thinking it could be the oil causing the problem, more so the wrong oil, just wondering if this is a normal problem for these bikes or its definitely something with mine.

Secondly, I have a little bit to much slap in my chain, as I hinted towards above, I dont know jack shit, So im asuming you can adjust he chain still but I cant seem to figure out how or where haha :facepalm:,

Any help would be appreciated,
Cheers
DM
Heres a picture of my new baby,
233826

[sil3nt]

Use a C-Spanner where the B is on this photo in this linkhttp://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/37041-NC30-chain-adjustment?


No idea about the clutch. My cable is shit and i still havent fixed it :facepalm:

[DrunkenMistake]

Uhh sweet cheers for that, I had a quick glance at the bike and I see exactly what it is and where it is, the bike didn't come with a tool kit, but I have a funny feeling I have a C spanner somewhere that will fit it.

[sil3nt]

Tool kit would be nice wouldn't it. Damn these 2nd hand bikes :angry:

[HenryDorsetCase]

Hey guys,
So about.. I dont know lets say a week ago, I brought a VFR400 NC30, now im not gonna lie, I have probably been fapping about this bike since I first started riding road bikes, And I gotta say, I have NO regrets buying this baby, I have a few Q's and A's im hoping you guys can help me answer,

first of all is, I found the clutch doesn't fully engage, so a friend and I adjusted the clutch but without a hell of a lot of difference, (as a note, my friend is far more motorbike/mechanically minded than I am :)) so Im thinking it could be the oil causing the problem, more so the wrong oil, just wondering if this is a normal problem for these bikes or its definitely something with mine.

Secondly, I have a little bit to much slap in my chain, as I hinted towards above, I dont know jack shit, So im asuming you can adjust he chain still but I cant seem to figure out how or where haha :facepalm:,

Any help would be appreciated,
Cheers
DM
Heres a picture of my new baby,
233826

nice bike :)

be prepared for it to have stuffed fibre plates in the clutch, not the oil. Give it an oil change anyway (its just prudent) but dont be surprised if it doesnt fix it.

the clutch is easy to get at (though the nut is a bitch to undo without air tools).

Your local Honda dealer will likely ask you "Whats a VFR400? How old is it? well, we might be able to get you some bits in six weeks out of Japan and give me your platinum card number first". Sources for spares are easy over the web. I use David Silver Spares out of the uk a lot, but also try the local guy: Econohonda.

www.davidsilverspares.co.uk

www.econohonda.co.nz

If you're ordering from DSS, get the service kit which has spark plugs, oil filter etc.

They have clutch cables too, cheap.


and grab the C spanner chain adjuster tool too. I got mine from ebay UK.

to adjust chain. Undo the big capscrew at the back of the swingarm. THat frees the pivot to rotate. Then use the C spanner in the handy notches to turn the pivot to the required tightness. then do up the lock capscrew.

easy as.

[DrunkenMistake]

Thanks for that man, thats really useful, im going to drain my oil when I get a free chance and just top it back up and see if it helps, if it doesn't then ill replace my filter oil and clutch plates, I might as well do it all in one hit.

[HenryDorsetCase]

If you're ordering online, get the spark plug removal tool as well. they are cheap enough, and the plugs are TINY (M8 thread or something) . these bikes are hard on plugs as well, and plugs are REALLY expensive. Like $40 a pop (thats EACH) expensive. because they are so small they are a complete ARSE to get at, so the Honda tool makes sense. You can pick them up off ebay.co.uk for about ten quid each, but check the shipping cost before hitting buy now.

[jono035]

Definitely recommend David Silver Spares.

I've read about the friction modifiers in car oils causing wet clutches to slip, but I've got no experience with it personally. Seems like the oil is an easy place to start.

The spark plug threads being M8 sounds about right as I've got a M13 deep-throat socket that works well (along with a blob of blu-tack to hold the spark plug in place in the socket).

[gatch]

deep-throat

He he he.

10

[DrunkenMistake]

Haha yah, when i changed my plugs in the CBR250 I lost the plug socket off the end of the ratchet and spent a good 40mins with bluetac, gaffer tape and a magnet trying to fetch it and the plug out

[jono035]

Haha yah, when i changed my plugs in the CBR250 I lost the plug socket off the end of the ratchet and spent a good 40mins with bluetac, gaffer tape and a magnet trying to fetch it and the plug out

Hahaha, that'd be pretty annoying.

A magnetic pickup tool from Supercheap is only about $5.

Really useful, makes getting valve shims out easy, too...

[Mystic13]

Definitely recommend David Silver Spares.

I've read about the friction modifiers in car oils causing wet clutches to slip, but I've got no experience with it personally. Seems like the oil is an easy place to start.

The spark plug threads being M8 sounds about right as I've got a M13 deep-throat socket that works well (along with a blob of blu-tack to hold the spark plug in place in the socket).

They did in the beginning but this hasn't been an issue for years. You can also get synthetic oil for motorbikes.

There is also a bit of a conspiracy running with synthetic oil as there is now synthetic oil and normal oil with additives that is called synthetic oil. The oil companies did a great job here. One produced normal oil with additives and called it synthetic. Another oil company took them to court and fought it. (So it has a tested court case behind it). And the Oil company won (or is that all oil companies won). because now they can call normal oil synthetic oil when it only has an additive. I thought it was a brilliant move on there part. Especially taking themselves to court.

You can always ask the supplier. BMW had the same belief until I got Rotax to Austria to tell BMW germany that the oil was all good and now it's used worldwide by BMW service people. It also makes the bikes quieter.

[Mystic13]

On a side note I've just thrown a pack rack and frame for a VFR 400 on bike trader and trademe. If you're interested PM me. I also have a VFR 400 that I'll be selling. And I'm sure it actually has the tool kit still.

[motorbyclist]

Thanks for that man, thats really useful, im going to drain my oil when I get a free chance and just top it back up and see if it helps, if it doesn't then ill replace my filter oil and clutch plates, I might as well do it all in one hit.

do you mean the clutch doesn't fully DISengage, or slips? Many motorcycles, particuarly hondas have a habit of "clunking" into first gear from stationary reguardless of clutch adjustment.

Car oil will most certainly cause the clutch to slip, but so does two decades of race-starts at traffic lights. Change the oil with the proper stuff (should really do with ANY new 2nd hand vehicles) but either way if the plates are contaminated or abused they will need to be replaced.


If you're ordering online, get the spark plug removal tool as well. they are cheap enough, and the plugs are TINY (M8 thread or something) . these bikes are hard on plugs as well, and plugs are REALLY expensive. Like $40 a pop (thats EACH) expensive.

mine have been fine on plugs.... david silver sells a service kit including air filer, oil filter and four plugs for less than what a dealer charges for plugs alone!

http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/parts/part_22860/


Definitely recommend David Silver Spares.

I've read about the friction modifiers in car oils causing wet clutches to slip, but I've got no experience with it personally. Seems like the oil is an easy place to start.

The spark plug threads being M8 sounds about right as I've got a M13 deep-throat socket that works well (along with a blob of blu-tack to hold the spark plug in place in the socket).

Ehab knows first-hand what car oil does to bike clutches ;)

The NC30/35 plugs are a M10 thread IIRC. "standard" for bikes is generally 12mm.

The 50cc super cub also uses a tiiiny plug - it's to maximse the available space for valves, apparently.

[DrunkenMistake]

For Example,

I will be stationary, put the bike into first, hold the clutch in as far as it will go, and the bike will be still fighting me to move forward

[PirateJafa]

For Example,

I will be stationary, put the bike into first, hold the clutch in as far as it will go, and the bike will be still fighting me to move forward

Ah.

Your clutch is not fully disengaging. This is the better of the two cases, as it means that your clutch is likely still fine (though every time you do this, it will be putting further unnecessary wear on it).

You need to adjust your clutch, which is done by the two threaded adjustors (well, one does the adjusting, the other locks it into place) just by your clutch lever. Get your friend to assist you if necessary, but your bike should NOT be trying to pull you forwards when you have your lever pulled in right against the bar - the clutch should be fully disengaged at this point, not dragging at all. If you reach the limit of your adjustment and it is still doing this, then your clutch cable may have stretched and need replacing - but your first port of call will definitely be playing with the adjustment, which should fix the problem easily.

[DrunkenMistake]

The two top theory's have been the clutch cable and clutch plate,
Will give the oil a hit, and replace the cable and see if that doesnt do me any good.

[sil3nt]

But before you do any of that have you tried adjusting the cable like jafa says?
I had clutch slip on my gpx. When accelerating hard every now and then the clutch would slip. Thought it was worn clutch plates but it turned out i just need to adjust the cable and what do ya know within 10 seconds the problem was fixed.

*edit*
hey look i re read your original post and you did adjust it. Ignore me im trying my best not to do an assignment :whistle:

[DrunkenMistake]

Yeah im too addicted to Forum sites and am trying to distract myself with a lovely zombie movie with my lady, (She believes I love my bike more than her..) Which is good becouse she knows her place,
1/ Motorbike,
2/ Power tools,
3/ Riding my motorbike,
4/ Riding her.

[PirateJafa]

Generally, incorrect oil will result in clutch slipping rather than dragging.

[gatch]

Yeah im too addicted to Forum sites and am trying to distract myself with a lovely zombie movie with my lady, (She believes I love my bike more than her..) Which is good becouse she knows her place,
1/ Motorbike,
2/ Power tools,
3/ Riding my motorbike,
4/ Riding her.

High five that man.

[DrunkenMistake]

;) My life's priorities are sorted.

[liljegren]

I'm in the market for an '06 or later VFR800 motor complete. Anybody know of one for sale locally? Matt.

[Mystic13]

I have a VFR 400 (89) that I've just put up for sale on here and will hold for a bit before listing on Trademe. If you know of anyone looking for one and a good buy then get them to PM me.

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/135997-Vfr400?p=1130016965#post1130016965

I also have forsale a CBR400RR engine, fairings, tail lights, rear indicators and other bits and pieces ('90). The pics are in my album. The frame, rear shock, swingarm, rear wheel and seat are on hold for a buyer. The front wheel is gone although the buyer may not want the forks. I prefer to sell in bigger parcels if possible. I'm not in the parting out business and don't want to be.

I have a VFR400NC30 complete without fairings that runs. I'd prefer to move that in one lot. I'll post pics of the other VFR in a about a week.

Cheers.

[sil3nt]

Thinking of selling my VFR already. Was lucky it wasn't stolen last night. Just put a disc lock on it a few days ago and they took the bicycle next to it.

Don't get to ride it much so time to move on already i think.

[ecko_nzed]

Thinking of selling my VFR already. Was lucky it wasn't stolen last night. Just put a disc lock on it a few days and they took the bicycle next to it.

Don't get to ride it much so time to move on already i think.

you live in the tron, whadya expect :Pokey:

[motorbyclist]

For Example,

I will be stationary, put the bike into first, hold the clutch in as far as it will go, and the bike will be still fighting me to move forward

Yes, do an oil change - but it won't help the clutch.


You need to correctly adjust the cable, possibly replace. If the lever isn't standard that can also cause this problem (too little travel).

Otherwise many bikes (especially hondas) do like to give a clunk and a tug when engaging first from stationary

[DrunkenMistake]

Yes, do an oil change - but it won't help the clutch.


You need to correctly adjust the cable, possibly replace. If the lever isn't standard that can also cause this problem (too little travel).

Otherwise many bikes (especially hondas) do like to give a clunk and a tug when engaging first from stationary

Got my Chinese Pazzos yesterday, The clutch lever made it worse haha, I have a good feeling it is the cable though, I played with the adjustment and its as far as its going to go Im not 100% bike savvy, for this I apologise but the adjusting nuts lower down the bike closest to the motor is adjusted as far as it can go without the (here comes a noob moment) right nut, so the one closest to the rear wheel falling off the thread, I played with both ways and going towards the front wheel simply made it seem as though I had no clutch what so ever so too loose. also same story with the adjuster by the lever.. fuck I sound so usless haha

[koba]

fuck I sound so usless haha

Yes.

Try thinking.

[motorbyclist]

fuck I sound so usless haha

you want to take up as much cable as possible in the outer so yes have the nuts at the "falling off" end.

The lever end should give you fine adjustment - you don't want excessive play but the cable must not be tight, just enough slack to wiggle the lever a few mm.

A new clutch cable should set you back around $30 unless you believe the crap some dealers feed customers and pay four times that amount


new fancy levers are a waste of money - especially if you've got clutch issues to be dealing with....

[LBD]

BTW....seeing as how this thread dedicated to VFR owners....a VFR800 rented from Te Waiponamu rentals, acheived Diamond in the last tt2000. Not the most comfy bike after 3239 km in 38 hours but performed well enough.....thanks Matt.

[HenryDorsetCase]

BTW....seeing as how this thread dedicated to VFR owners....a VFR800 rented from Te Waiponamu rentals, acheived Diamond in the last tt2000. Not the most comfy bike after 3239 km in 38 hours but performed well enough.....thanks Matt.

good effort. I can't imagine doing that. How much sleep did you get during those 38 hours?

[LBD]

good effort. I can't imagine doing that. How much sleep did you get during those 38 hours?

1/2 hr...45 minute power nap at Athol...when I new I needed it

[DrunkenMistake]

Yes.

Try thinking.

Thank you for your minimal contribution, You must have made somebody very proud.

[Devy]

soo i bought mystic13's vfr yesterday.. on the motorway this morning the bike cut out randomly.. tried to pull over. got rear ended by a huge truck.. nearly road kill... he was doing 90kms aparently any1 that lives in south auckland like manukau pass would have seen it round 9ish this morning.

sad that the bike has a bit of damage. :(

what i want to know is why the bike randomly stalled this morning?? rectafier? wht i need to know is if i can actually fix this problem soo i dont die or is it something every1 deals with with their vfr..

ohh n the bike starts fine now.

[DrunkenMistake]

Holy hell man I hope your ok,
and my old CBR250 done it to me once, I took it apart and checked all the wires etc and found something had come loose, cant exactly remember what though, never done it again

[Devy]

yeah i had my leathers n stuff.. soo im fine cops reckon i could have died quite easily.. true it started up fine.. chocked it.. warmd it up then got on the motorway n moved up to 4 gear? n i felt a flat spot building.. soo i gear down n gave it some juice but it didnt want to rev pas 9000rpm.. then i preety much knew it was gona stall...

was that the same problem as yours? if i can sort the problem ill bring the bike back to life but if not.. i might just scrap it..

[DrunkenMistake]

im not really awesome at motors etc but It could have something to do with a blocked Jet? maybe give your carbs a clean out, might not be getting enough gas or maybe not enough air, is the fuel breather clear and free?

[HenryDorsetCase]

yeah i had my leathers n stuff.. soo im fine cops reckon i could have died quite easily.. true it started up fine.. chocked it.. warmd it up then got on the motorway n moved up to 4 gear? n i felt a flat spot building.. soo i gear down n gave it some juice but it didnt want to rev pas 9000rpm.. then i preety much knew it was gona stall...

was that the same problem as yours? if i can sort the problem ill bring the bike back to life but if not.. i might just scrap it..

that sounds like the totally random and frustrating issue I had with mine. Make sure that the vent hole in your fuel tank is clear: when it starts to do it, take the vent cap off and if it comes right it might be that. Mine turned out to be the fuel line I had cut about an inch and a half too long. sit tank on, connect fuel line, bolt tank down. When tank bolted down it kinked the fuel line. when tank unbolted to investigate, bike ran fine. Much hilarity ensues.

Then go deeper: fuel manifold, then clean carbs etc. How is Mr Airfilter?

intermittent issues are a total bitch to fix.

[Devy]

i have no idea how any of the usual service components are. i just got the bike last nite.. anyways ill keep you guys update if i find the culprate. im just scared it it happens again i might not be so lucky.

[gatch]

soo i bought mystic13's vfr yesterday.. on the motorway this morning the bike cut out randomly.. tried to pull over. got rear ended by a huge truck.. nearly road kill... he was doing 90kms aparently any1 that lives in south auckland like manukau pass would have seen it round 9ish this morning.

sad that the bike has a bit of damage. :(

what i want to know is why the bike randomly stalled this morning?? rectafier? wht i need to know is if i can actually fix this problem soo i dont die or is it something every1 deals with with their vfr..

ohh n the bike starts fine now.

Maaaaaaaate thats fucked up. Glad to read you are still alive though..

It won't be your rectifier, that part just changes your charging voltage from ac to dc and limits the voltage going to the battery. If that was ruined you would find your battery going flat constantly.

Did it run rough before it died ? If so, I think HDC may be on the money. Fuel blockage can stall you immediately, they are only little jets in the vfr, they can block up 12 quick.

[Devy]

nah it just came outa the blue. sory but what do u mean by HDC? yeah when i open up the bike tonight ill have a look at the fuel line and carbs.. have a feeling it was that..

[HenryDorsetCase]

nah it just came outa the blue. sory but what do u mean by HDC? yeah when i open up the bike tonight ill have a look at the fuel line and carbs.. have a feeling it was that..

he means me. HDC is the shortening of my username.

if it has an inline fuel filter, chuck it and put a new one in. and look inside the tank for rust and water and stuff. The fuel petcocks are hilarious too: they're vacuum operated. intake vacuum sucks on the little hose which opens the petcock and allows fuel to flow (the bigger one is the fuel hose). the vacuum hose has to be in good condition too: no pinholes or cracks. Or you can do the HRC mod and bin it altogether, but you MUST then be disciplined about turning the fuel off. There have been a number of instances of these bikes with leaky petcocks leaking fuel onto the rear header (its RIGHT there and its bloody hot) causing a fire. That fire is really close to your nads. I'm just saying.

[Devy]

ohh sorry mate didnt know. yeah it could be the fuel filter or the petcock will have a look tonight but i feel its gota do with the fuel too.. i dont think im that dissiplined ai soo dont think id bypass it. dam i hate issue's that arnt clear cut, now ive gota first sort the problem out thn sort the new fairing n rear sub-frame out.

[DrunkenMistake]

he means me. HDC is the shortening of my username.

if it has an inline fuel filter, chuck it and put a new one in. and look inside the tank for rust and water and stuff. The fuel petcocks are hilarious too: they're vacuum operated. intake vacuum sucks on the little hose which opens the petcock and allows fuel to flow (the bigger one is the fuel hose). the vacuum hose has to be in good condition too: no pinholes or cracks. Or you can do the HRC mod and bin it altogether, but you MUST then be disciplined about turning the fuel off. There have been a number of instances of these bikes with leaky petcocks leaking fuel onto the rear header (its RIGHT there and its bloody hot) causing a fire. That fire is really close to your nads. I'm just saying.

Just as well your bike has a 'Petcock' ;)

Couldnt help myself haha :facepalm:

[DrunkenMistake]

Hey guys, im thinking of cleaning my carbs tomorrow, the fella I brought it off says he had recently done it, but it feels like it has a flat spot as though a jet is blocked, plus it gives me an excuse to finally pull my new beast apart haha, I also need to top up my radiator reserve and rear break fluid, as well as do my chain, so its like a super maintenance day tomorrow, I have cleaned the carbs on my two fiddy with some help, but I believe I can do that again without any hassle, was just wondering if there is anything I should look out for under the tank of the VFR like some nasty prick of a bolt or something like that, and if there is anything I should check out while I have it apart, I know these bikes can have an electrical fault at some point and time, but is there anything else I need to keep my eye on while I have my shit apart?
Cheers.
:corn:

Also, Does anyone have a workbook manual for the NC30 for sale.. like cheaaappp? haha

[PirateJafa]

First thing I would check is what Mr HDC said - check that your breather hose from your fuel tank isn't sandwiched under the tank (though if the rear-ending was that bad, it sounds like it might have been shaken free by now).

If that breather hose is shut off, then the bike will run for a while, until too much of a vacuum builds up in the tank and then it won't want to pull more fuel down the line, and will slowly die as the carbs drain - same as running out of gas.

Was a interesting problem to solve, as each time it happened, I'd assume I'd run out of gas, so would open the fuel cap to check... "nope, there's fuel in there, wtf?"... which would of course equalise the pressure again and let fuel flow... for a while... ;)

[Harvd]

Hey guys, im thinking of cleaning my carbs tomorrow, the fella I brought it off says he had recently done it, but it feels like it has a flat spot as though a jet is blocked, plus it gives me an excuse to finally pull my new beast apart haha, I also need to top up my radiator reserve and rear break fluid, as well as do my chain, so its like a super maintenance day tomorrow, I have cleaned the carbs on my two fiddy with some help, but I believe I can do that again without any hassle, was just wondering if there is anything I should look out for under the tank of the VFR like some nasty prick of a bolt or something like that, and if there is anything I should check out while I have it apart, I know these bikes can have an electrical fault at some point and time, but is there anything else I need to keep my eye on while I have my shit apart?
Cheers.
:corn:

Also, Does anyone have a workbook manual for the NC30 for sale.. like cheaaappp? haha

Every bolt on these under the tank is a prick. The first time will be a learning experience and test of your patience. A blocked jet shouldnt cause a midrange flatspot however It would manifest itself as a weak top end. these bikes tend to have a mid range flatspot stock but can be cleared up with a bit of tweaking.

https://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/RVF400RR-NC35-1994-JAPANESE/part_30957/
That should be about as cheap as ive seen them new even including shipping. Theres a guy on TM sellin them too but for maybe $10 more max.

[Icemaestro]

Hi all, considering/on the look out for a NC30 or if I'm lucky enough, a NC35 rvf...been scanning trademe (just missed out one one for an amazingly good price last thurs), but anyone on here looking to sell theirs right now?

Cheers

[DrunkenMistake]

Yah I had herd things like that, and had read some bits and pieces about people suggesting bigger jets and some fine tuning and exhaust change to provide a better mid range, not overly worried about it if its a standard thing, Will be changing my Can at some point soon, looking at getting a one off made when I get around to deciding how im going to do it design wise. Cheers for your help

[gatch]

Yah I had herd things like that, and had read some bits and pieces about people suggesting bigger jets and some fine tuning and exhaust change to provide a better mid range, not overly worried about it if its a standard thing, Will be changing my Can at some point soon, looking at getting a one off made when I get around to deciding how im going to do it design wise. Cheers for your help

VFRs commonly have a flat spot around 6-8000rpm. This can be improved. Look up "400greybikeforums". It's a website based in UK. These guys absolutely beat off over their 400s. There is a good "how to" for carb work in one of the mechanical forums.

[Devy]

First thing I would check is what Mr HDC said - check that your breather hose from your fuel tank isn't sandwiched under the tank (though if the rear-ending was that bad, it sounds like it might have been shaken free by now).

If that breather hose is shut off, then the bike will run for a while, until too much of a vacuum builds up in the tank and then it won't want to pull more fuel down the line, and will slowly die as the carbs drain - same as running out of gas.

Was a interesting problem to solve, as each time it happened, I'd assume I'd run out of gas, so would open the fuel cap to check... "nope, there's fuel in there, wtf?"... which would of course equalise the pressure again and let fuel flow... for a while... ;)

mate,thats sounds exactly like what happen.. but it ran perfectly fine last nite.. maybe while i was fiddling around with the fairings yesterday i might have moved it into a bad position.. hmmm my luck ai..

its allgood gives me an excuse too properly comb over the bike.. should be a sick vfr by the end of this.

[jono035]

Good on you for servicing it yourself, but be real wary the first time you take stuff apart. I've fallen into a few traps with mine, so far.

When I first took the tank off mine, I accidentally snagged and tore open the vacc hose that operates the petcock, so everything seemed fine yet no fuel. Also, getting the carbs on and off is a job requiring some finesse, and a 400mm long phillips screwdriver... There was a good description of how to do it on the 400GreyBike forums, which are a gold mine of info about these bikes. I'd recite it here, but I can't remember it, I'm afraid. Also, I've been warned not to actually dismantle the bank of carbs, just take off the float bowl, as getting those linkages back together correctly can be difficult and will cause all sorts of weird flat spots and roughness...

[koba]

its allgood gives me an excuse too properly comb over the bike.. should be a sick vfr by the end of this.

Maybe it will be.

[HenryDorsetCase]

Good on you for servicing it yourself, but be real wary the first time you take stuff apart. I've fallen into a few traps with mine, so far.

When I first took the tank off mine, I accidentally snagged and tore open the vacc hose that operates the petcock, so everything seemed fine yet no fuel. Also, getting the carbs on and off is a job requiring some finesse, and a 400mm long phillips screwdriver... There was a good description of how to do it on the 400GreyBike forums, which are a gold mine of info about these bikes. I'd recite it here, but I can't remember it, I'm afraid. Also, I've been warned not to actually dismantle the bank of carbs, just take off the float bowl, as getting those linkages back together correctly can be difficult and will cause all sorts of weird flat spots and roughness...

understatement of the year. :) Its an ARSE of a job. Also if you have to ever take off the rear headers then get the thing back on, especially with the engine in situ. I ended up taking the shock out of mine to do it.

[DrunkenMistake]

Will never be doing that again!.. found my problem, there was a half cooked moth stuck in one of the sliders, it seems to be running better after all that, took me FOREVER to get the stacks back on, Its as though the plate ontop of the carbs with the stacks on it is slightly twisted, Next question,
Does anybody have a new clutch cable for sale or know of anyone with new ones in stock? went to the bike shops here and was told I would be better off sourcing it from over seas myself, would be easier and cheaper. Or does anyone know of another suitable cable that would be an ideal replacement.

[DrunkenMistake]

Uhh, Found that Tyga has a clutch cable to suit for $5 USD

[gatch]

Uhh, Found that Tyga has a clutch cable to suit for $5 USD

That surprises me not one bit..

[sil3nt]

Uhh, Found that Tyga has a clutch cable to suit for $5 USDCheck the shipping though! If you do order something from tyga let me know. I wouldn't mind the clutch cable as well would make shipping cheaper.

[HenryDorsetCase]

Uhh, Found that Tyga has a clutch cable to suit for $5 USD

check out David Silver Spares out of the UK. My last order from Tyga never fucking arrived, so they're dead to me.

[DrunkenMistake]

check out David Silver Spares out of the UK. My last order from Tyga never fucking arrived, so they're dead to me.

Fuck I hope it arrives.
Ordered last night so we will see, shipping wasn't all to bad I also picked up a few other little bits and pieces sorry sil3nt I pretty much done it when I had posted that haha

---------
Kay So this morning I went and warmed up the bike as usual, turned off the choke etc and BAM it just died, spent a good 10 mins trying to get it going and just gave up, Tigertim20 came around at about 4:30ish to give me a hand and we stripped it back to where I had got yesterday, he checked the carbs etc for me and he mentioned something I should ask you guys as I would never have checked, He said this about the Jets, secondaries were 35s mains were a split between 115s and 118s, was wondering if this is normal?.
Anyways we got everything back together etc and couldnt seem to figure out what had gone wrong, when we got to the tank it hit us, The Vaccume hose under the tank was Shagged and was falling apart, so it had split in the process of me pulling it all apart yesterday unfortanitly due to me and TT been banter buddies, we had chewed up about 2 hours before we had realised this, so looks like ill be taking the 2fiddy to work tomorrow and to super cheap to buy some more hose haha.

[racefactory]

I think I have a spare second hand one you could have if you want mate?

[DrunkenMistake]

I think I have a spare second hand one you could have if you want mate?

If your referring to the hose, then thanks but its all good, its like $5 a meter at supercheap plus I need the exact same sized stuff for my bucket racer etc thanks though

[gatch]

Fuck I hope it arrives.
Ordered last night so we will see, shipping wasn't all to bad I also picked up a few other little bits and pieces sorry sil3nt I pretty much done it when I had posted that haha

---------
Kay So this morning I went and warmed up the bike as usual, turned off the choke etc and BAM it just died, spent a good 10 mins trying to get it going and just gave up, Tigertim20 came around at about 4:30ish to give me a hand and we stripped it back to where I had got yesterday, he checked the carbs etc for me and he mentioned something I should ask you guys as I would never have checked, He said this about the Jets, secondaries were 35s mains were a split between 115s and 118s, was wondering if this is normal?.
Anyways we got everything back together etc and couldnt seem to figure out what had gone wrong, when we got to the tank it hit us, The Vaccume hose under the tank was Shagged and was falling apart, so it had split in the process of me pulling it all apart yesterday unfortanitly due to me and TT been banter buddies, we had chewed up about 2 hours before we had realised this, so looks like ill be taking the 2fiddy to work tomorrow and to super cheap to buy some more hose haha.

The carbs jets may be a little lean. I think they recommend 118 in the front 2 carbs and 120 in the rear two. If you get a freer flowing exhaust you will NEED to jet your bike up, as you seriously risk burning valves or a piston. I think this is covered in the carb removal guide on 400greybike forums..

Good work finding the hose.. Vacuum leaks are gay with aids.

[DrunkenMistake]

Haha yah ae, The jet issue isnt to much of a problem as I am looking at getting a freer flowing can put on and was going to rejet the bike at that point and time and probably look at getting it dyno tuned

[racefactory]

I have jets if you want them.

I was referring to the clutch cable mate.

[racefactory]

Haha yah ae, The jet issue isnt to much of a problem as I am looking at getting a freer flowing can put on and was going to rejet the bike at that point and time and probably look at getting it dyno tuned

Just do the fuel tap mod to your bike... more reliable and no more shitty hard to fit vacuum hoses (good luck getting the hose onto the no3 cylinder inlet manifold)

Jet sizes you got are normal. Rear cylinder get hot so they run richer main jets. If you are getting an aftermarket pipe on there then for a start try running 118 120 that's a good baseline. Don't forget to raise your needles 0.5mm with the needle washer mod and adjust your pilot screws so you aren't too rich at idle as a result.

My bike is running really free and pulls like a train up top... However the infamous flat spot at down low is quite bad and amplified as a consequence (on full throttle it goes poorly there) need to raise the needles.

[DrunkenMistake]

yeah well, took alot of skin and some of my knuckle and thumb nail but I got the hose on the inlet manifold, Fired her up and Wam she started!...
and OH FUCK she pissed out fuel, was coming out of the Carb overflow on the rear set of carbs, TT came around and had a looksy and such and done some shit and we fired it up and no fuel problem, but we only ran it for a second, then Hayd3n came round and plastic welded up my cracks in my fairings etc and was going to help me put everything back on, but he mentioned I should give it one more kick, so I did and it pissed out fuel again from the same place, So we are thinking maybe its the floats stuck at the top of the carbs as I turned them upside down (without thinking), so will have to do it once more over tomorrow ... so a total of like 8 hours work so far. Was wondering if anyone can give me some kind of insight as what this problem could be?

[racefactory]

Stuck float or stuck needle sounds likely.

Nice one with getting that vacuum tube onto the no3 inlet manifold... I'll be damned if I could get it on there with hands. I had to use some conveniently long needle nose pliers and a lot of fucking about.

Dude I wouldn't worry about your flat spot too much, all VFR's do it. You need to shim the needle if you really want to eliminate it though... they made it like that for emissions. How does the bike run down low and at top under full throttle?

Btw... don't know if anyone has mentioned it already but while you're inside it's guts, just beware of one thing; whatever you do don't take off the fucking rubber snorkel and the flap in front of the airbox underneath the frame. You think it would increase flow and give it better ram air etc but it will make it run like a bag of shit- guaranteed.

[DrunkenMistake]

nah the flat spot I was experiencing was the one that is typical, so no problems there, and I see that flap there and thought, I bet thats there for a damn good reason. And left it, I just got recommended this from a race engineer " it's common for float valves to leak after a carb has been disassembled, the usual tricks are to give the carbs a good tap on the float bowls once they're back on or alternatively to hold the fuel tap diaphragm open by sucking on the vacuum line for 5-10 secs with the drain screws open on the bottom of the carbs to let any debris under the float valve to be flushed out. if that doesn't work you'll need to take the carbs back off & pressure test them in case one of the float valves is no longer seating properly"

[HenryDorsetCase]

yeah well, took alot of skin and some of my knuckle and thumb nail but I got the hose on the inlet manifold, Fired her up and Wam she started!...
and OH FUCK she pissed out fuel, was coming out of the Carb overflow on the rear set of carbs, TT came around and had a looksy and such and done some shit and we fired it up and no fuel problem, but we only ran it for a second, then Hayd3n came round and plastic welded up my cracks in my fairings etc and was going to help me put everything back on, but he mentioned I should give it one more kick, so I did and it pissed out fuel again from the same place, So we are thinking maybe its the floats stuck at the top of the carbs as I turned them upside down (without thinking), so will have to do it once more over tomorrow ... so a total of like 8 hours work so far. Was wondering if anyone can give me some kind of insight as what this problem could be?


can you LIGHTLY tap the float bowls using something like the handle of a hammer or screwdriver? if that works it would save you a shitload of time taking the carbs off again.

[Mort]

Can I join this thread ? I have a R1 with one of those crossplane crank thingys. Its just like a VFR800 (but better)

[DrunkenMistake]

can you LIGHTLY tap the float bowls using something like the handle of a hammer or screwdriver? if that works it would save you a shitload of time taking the carbs off again.

Tried sucking on the fucker for 20 seconds, just ended up getting high, and gave all four a light tap and nothing, still pissing gas, looking down at the carbs so the front been the dials end and the back been the tail, its the back left carb causing the problem thats where the over flow hoses are and its the one closest to the left thats pissing out gas and if i remember right that was connected to that carb

[sil3nt]

Tried sucking on the fucker for 20 seconds, just ended up getting high, and gave all four a light tap and nothing, still pissing gas, looking down at the carbs so the front been the dials end and the back been the tail, its the back left carb causing the problem thats where the over flow hoses are and its the one closest to the left thats pissing out gas and if i remember right that was connected to that carbYou wanted a manual? http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/136386-VFR400R-NC30-parts?p=1130025778#post1130025778

[DrunkenMistake]

You wanted a manual? http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/136386-VFR400R-NC30-parts?p=1130025778#post1130025778

Cheers man

[jono035]

Drunken Mistake - Yeah, same thing that I did, ripped the hose pulling it off. I ended up just soldering the hose nipple on the intake to seal it and apparently the fuel tap mod had already been done. I've never had any problems with it leaking fuel or whatever and I never turn the tap off so hopefully the luck stays with me.

As for jets, 115f 118r is normal for those, or at least for the UK spec ones, I think. From memory, the 400GB forums recommend 118f 120r or 120f 120r for aftermarket cans and 120/122 or 122/122 for full exhaust replacements. I've got 118f 120r in mine at the moment. I don't know about jetting them both the same, I figure if the guys who designed the bike wanted the rear cylinders running richer (I guess they run a bit hotter?) then I should probably stick with that theory.

As for the flat spot between 5k-7k, you can get an aftermarket programmable CDI unit that supposedly helps with that. I've got one waiting to go on as soon as I get the exhaust leaks sorted out. Some of the flat spot is apparently just due to CDI timing in order to pass emissions testing when running at 100k in top gear.

If you're going to be riding the bike around town a lot, the best thing I can suggest is dropping a tooth on the front sprocket, I think to a 15 tooth? Cycletreads had one of those sprockets in stock. It brings the revs up about 7% at the same speed which makes the bike way more rideable, given how tall first gear is. Means you'll go easier on your clutch, too. I can't remember what it used to sit at when doing 100km/hr, but it's about 7.4k rpm now. Down the back straight of pukekohe it made no difference as the bike didn't get up to the limiter anyway so it doesn't make much difference to the top speed.

[racefactory]

Hey guys, I just got this for my collection:

235724

...I hope I can still be a member of the preservation society?

[sil3nt]

Gonna sell it or keep it?

I was keen for that but was out of my price range.

[racefactory]

Gonna sell it or keep it?

I was keen for that but was out of my price range.

Keeping it! It runs pretty good and doesnt need too much tinkering with fortunately. Still running rich at the low end when warm though. Front forks are decent too. Just need to get some braided lines on the front which I have got!

Also I am pleasantly surprised by the 1st gear.

[DrunkenMistake]

Ok got everything going fine today, pulled all the little bits and peices off that i had tinkered with and made sure all the rubber gaskets etc were in the right place, put it together, fired it up, and YESS no fuel pissing out or anything, took it for a 12km ride to town and to TT's and still fine, took it to the servo as I was on reserve, put in $20, fired her up and I lost about a litre of gas... pissed out from the carbs again, so i rode it to TT's (less than a min away) and managed to soak my leg with fuel.
So idk wtf is going on.

[racefactory]

Damn man what's up with that?

Shitty gasket on the carb bowl not sealing? Is it coming from the float bowl mate? I've got some float bowl gaskets if you need em.

Have you done up the float bowl drain screw?

[DrunkenMistake]

Damn man what's up with that?

Shitty gasket on the carb bowl not sealing? Is it coming from the float bowl mate? I've got some float bowl gaskets if you need em.

Have you done up the float bowl drain screw?

Its all beyond my capibilities so the bike is at Tigertims for the next few days so he can have a looksy, let me find a picture I took and uploaded to FB before my phone fucked out, and I will circle the peice I took off the first time, then took off again and made the little gasket line up properly, after I done that it ran fine but after it was stopped it pissed out again from the over flow hose, idk if you can see the hose from the pic but it comes from the peice I will highlight haha.

Ones the original and the other is just showing you haha.

235827
235826

[jono035]

Ok got everything going fine today, pulled all the little bits and peices off that i had tinkered with and made sure all the rubber gaskets etc were in the right place, put it together, fired it up, and YESS no fuel pissing out or anything, took it for a 12km ride to town and to TT's and still fine, took it to the servo as I was on reserve, put in $20, fired her up and I lost about a litre of gas... pissed out from the carbs again, so i rode it to TT's (less than a min away) and managed to soak my leg with fuel.
So idk wtf is going on.

I'd take the tank off, get some hose and put some fuel into the carbs with the tank and airbox off. That'll at least show you which carb has the problem. Then try tapping the float bowl sharply, blowing on the hose, maybe blow some carb cleaner down the inlet. If that doesn't work, take the carbs off and check to make sure the needle valve and seat aren't damaged, that the assembly has been put back together correctly and that the float hasn't been damaged.

The float may have been bent out of shape or damaged, either at the float itself or the little arm that couples to the needle. At the very least, it's worth checking that the float height is set correctly, which there are instructions for in the Haynes manual.

[HenryDorsetCase]

I want a fuel injected, 750cc VFR400. with modern geometry.

Build it for me Mr Honda!

[DrunkenMistake]

I'd take the tank off, get some hose and put some fuel into the carbs with the tank and airbox off. That'll at least show you which carb has the problem. Then try tapping the float bowl sharply, blowing on the hose, maybe blow some carb cleaner down the inlet. If that doesn't work, take the carbs off and check to make sure the needle valve and seat aren't damaged, that the assembly has been put back together correctly and that the float hasn't been damaged.

The float may have been bent out of shape or damaged, either at the float itself or the little arm that couples to the needle. At the very least, it's worth checking that the float height is set correctly, which there are instructions for in the Haynes manual.

Will give it a shot tomorrow after work tomorrow if I get a chance, im currently riding the 250 around like theres no tomorrow haha, poor thing must hate me right about now.

[jono035]

I want a fuel injected, 750cc VFR400. with modern geometry.

Build it for me Mr Honda!

Oh, absolutely. I seriously considered trying to convert my VFR to injection after dicking around with the carbs :|

Edit: Keep everything the same to save time and cost and just update whatever needs it. Only if it's got gear-driven cams, though...

[gatch]

I want a fuel injected, 750cc VFR400. with modern geometry.

Build it for me Mr Honda!

I think a 600 with modern suspension would be just the tits.

[ecko_nzed]

Hey guys, I just got this for my collection:

...I hope I can still be a member of the preservation society?

Fine choice sir :niceone:


Probably going to keep it for a while. It runs absolutely great and for once doesn't need any bloody tinkering around with. Front forks are decent too. Just need to get some braided lines on the front which I have got!

Also I am pleasantly surprised by the 1st gear.

unless the forks have been modded, they dive like a whores drawers. get someone who knows about suspension to mod them, it makes a HUGE difference. CKT did mine.

[HenryDorsetCase]

unless the forks have been modded, they dive like a whores drawers. get someone who knows about suspension to mod them, it makes a HUGE difference. CKT did mine.

concur. that and an ohlins will give you bags more cornering clearance too.

I cranked mine up yesterday for the first time in a while: stropping it up and down our road on a quiet sunday afternoon. Yeah, I'm THAT guy.

[racefactory]

Fine choice sir :niceone:



unless the forks have been modded, they dive like a whores drawers. get someone who knows about suspension to mod them, it makes a HUGE difference. CKT did mine.

Definitely not as bad as NC30 forks though! These ones feel like they've been re-sprung at some point actually. The compression dampening I can get quite good for my liking but then the rebound is just too aggressive... wish they could be independently controlled but this is the 90's after all. What mods have been done to your forks?

To be honest though I feel the best mod is your riding. I'm just going to leave it stockish which is what these V4 Hondas enjoy... well in the induction setup anyway.

[racefactory]

Its all beyond my capibilities so the bike is at Tigertims for the next few days so he can have a looksy, let me find a picture I took and uploaded to FB before my phone fucked out, and I will circle the peice I took off the first time, then took off again and made the little gasket line up properly, after I done that it ran fine but after it was stopped it pissed out again from the over flow hose, idk if you can see the hose from the pic but it comes from the peice I will highlight haha.

Ones the original and the other is just showing you haha.

235827
235826

Drunken Mistake- do you know what that indicator switch block you have on your bike is from?

[ecko_nzed]

What mods have been done to your forks?

To be honest though I feel the best mod is your riding. I'm just going to leave it stockish which is what these V4 Hondas enjoy... well in the induction setup anyway.

err um, I gonna go with "stuff" was done to them. Sorry not technical when it comes to suspension. Racetech springs and a new shim stack, and some valving work from memory.

Without spending a bit of coin on your suspension, I wouldn't bother messing with the standard suspension, it doesn't seem to make any difference. I'm saving up for a nice shiney new rear as I'm that impressed with the front that I reckon it is money well spent.

[gatch]

err um, I gonna go with "stuff" was done to them. Sorry not technical when it comes to suspension. Racetech springs and a new shim stack, and some valving work from memory.

Without spending a bit of coin on your suspension, I wouldn't bother messing with the standard suspension, it doesn't seem to make any difference. I'm saving up for a nice shiney new rear as I'm that impressed with the front that I reckon it is money well spent.

Shim stack ? Are the rvf forks, cartridge type ?

[sil3nt]

Almost binned it today. Got mad sideways braking for a roundabout. Was going fairly slowly and wasnt using the brake all that hard but a combination of wet road + white line + shinko saw me do decent little drift. I recommend the Shinko rear tyre if you don't like riding in a straight line.

[racefactory]

It's a cartridge fork and a lot stiffer spring rate than the NC30. Rear shock has a compression canister and also stiffer spring rate.

Taking my bike apart now to see what's in there and undo any delinquencies of previous owners that I might find. Pilot screws definitely feel off. Hopefully I don't end up with Monkey Boy what's-his-name's situation.

[DrunkenMistake]

Still havnt had a chance to get the viffer going, with some luck work will let me leave! so I can work on it tomorrow with TT,
That aside, I have been looking at getting a digital speedo something the likes of a Koso RX2 which looks like, (and of coarse this wont be happening untill my shit is sorted)
http://www.motorparts.nl/images/rmcp/360-275.jpg

What I want to know is, has anyone set up something like this on their bike? I just wanna know how much of a c**t it would be, this is possibly the wrong thread but thought it would be a good place to start

[sil3nt]

Still havnt had a chance to get the viffer going, with some luck work will let me leave! so I can work on it tomorrow with TT,
That aside, I have been looking at getting a digital speedo something the likes of a Koso RX2 which looks like, (and of coarse this wont be happening untill my shit is sorted)
http://www.motorparts.nl/images/rmcp/360-275.jpg

What I want to know is, has anyone set up something like this on their bike? I just wanna know how much of a c**t it would be, this is possibly the wrong thread but thought it would be a good place to startThey work. Search Koso on 400greybike. Only a couple of threads about it but it doesnt sound too hard to get working.

Not quite the VFR http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=koso+RVF&aq=f

[DrunkenMistake]

Uh yeah sweet, those translogic ones look mean, but from memory they will cost an arm and a leg, and maybe a dead hooker,
Im curious to wither the low fuel warning on the Koso is programmable so say you can set it to .. lets say 200km if you can set it to come on at 180km or something along those lines, or if its just for bikes with the level sensor, I hate not knowing haha I could probably google it etc etc, but cbf, + there is usually someone who has some kind of idea, cheers for the youtube link.

[racefactory]

Does anyone have a spare snorkel for the airbox? I need one.

[ecko_nzed]

Shim stack ? Are the rvf forks, cartridge type ?
I was told they are a very early cartridge type fork. If you have questions about them Robert Taylor from CKT is very knowledgeable.

I weigh in close to the ton, so while the springs maybe stiffer than the vfr, they're not stiff enough.

[Icemaestro]

Hi all, would love some help here - trying to get the nc30 woff-able - having a mish of a time sorting out the rear brake switch mechanism. have found the switch, but how does it connect? can't find any photos on the net here, and the manual is pretty damn useless to be honest, I get the feeling im missing parts, cause I can't figure out what the spring attaches to, and how the black bit that has the adjuster on it is held in (I have various pieces in a box, not sure how they go together.

Not to mention the two allen key bolts that are holding the racing rearset in don't want to come out. have tried CRC, hitting them with a hammer, and putting all my weight into the allen keys...have snapped one allen key so far :-P...

also, any help for parts re: my thread here (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/136542-VFR400-cbr250rr-cbr400rr-seat-lock-etc) would be great! Thanks!!

PS: Racefactory: isn't there a snorkel in that box of bits I have?not entirely certain lol

[HenryDorsetCase]

Hi all, would love some help here - trying to get the nc30 woff-able - having a mish of a time sorting out the rear brake switch mechanism. have found the switch, but how does it connect? can't find any photos on the net here, and the manual is pretty damn useless to be honest, I get the feeling im missing parts, cause I can't figure out what the spring attaches to, and how the black bit that has the adjuster on it is held in (I have various pieces in a box, not sure how they go together.

Not to mention the two allen key bolts that are holding the racing rearset in don't want to come out. have tried CRC, hitting them with a hammer, and putting all my weight into the allen keys...have snapped one allen key so far :-P...

also, any help for parts re: my thread here (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/136542-VFR400-cbr250rr-cbr400rr-seat-lock-etc) would be great! Thanks!!

PS: Racefactory: isn't there a snorkel in that box of bits I have?not entirely certain lol

impact driver (they're like $20) should sort the screw out. while you're there treat yourself to some copper grease, so when you reassemble a bit of copper grease goes a loooong way.

no idea re the brake switch sorry, mine doesnt have one.

[Icemaestro]

impact driver. I like it. also, how did your bike get a wof without a rear switch thing? thats the only reason Im doing this..who uses rear brakes by themselves? (using the rear brake today I'm not actually sure it's working properly either lol

[gatch]

impact driver (they're like $20) should sort the screw out. while you're there treat yourself to some copper grease, so when you reassemble a bit of copper grease goes a loooong way.

no idea re the brake switch sorry, mine doesnt have one.

NO. Copper cote is old shit.

The longer it stays in the harder it goes, especially with the header being so close to the foot peg hanger.

Get yourself some nickel based anti seize. Stuff is good for extreme temps. I use it on everything at work. $$$ but well worth it.

[HenryDorsetCase]

impact driver. I like it. also, how did your bike get a wof without a rear switch thing? thats the only reason Im doing this..who uses rear brakes by themselves? (using the rear brake today I'm not actually sure it's working properly either lol


Mines a trackday toy: its an ex F3 racebike. :)

[HenryDorsetCase]

NO. Copper cote is old shit.

The longer it stays in the harder it goes, especially with the header being so close to the foot peg hanger.

Get yourself some nickel based anti seize. Stuff is good for extreme temps. I use it on everything at work. $$$ but well worth it.

score me a tube?

[racefactory]

Hi all, would love some help here - trying to get the nc30 woff-able - having a mish of a time sorting out the rear brake switch mechanism. have found the switch, but how does it connect? can't find any photos on the net here, and the manual is pretty damn useless to be honest, I get the feeling im missing parts, cause I can't figure out what the spring attaches to, and how the black bit that has the adjuster on it is held in (I have various pieces in a box, not sure how they go together.

Not to mention the two allen key bolts that are holding the racing rearset in don't want to come out. have tried CRC, hitting them with a hammer, and putting all my weight into the allen keys...have snapped one allen key so far :-P...

also, any help for parts re: my thread here (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/136542-VFR400-cbr250rr-cbr400rr-seat-lock-etc) would be great! Thanks!!

PS: Racefactory: isn't there a snorkel in that box of bits I have?not entirely certain lol

I've had to adjust a rear brake switch before and from memory it mounts into the rearset. There should be a hole in the casting for it to clamp into... if no provision for it on those rearsets just throw some stockers on or jimmy the switch up to the pedal with cable ties or something if it just needs to be something rudimentary to get the wof sticker.

Do you have a snorkel in those parts? Yay! ... is it complete and not cut up? Actually, get your bike sorted first and then if you've still got it i'll have it. It's not essential but my bike isn't running quite right with this butchered one.

Just ordered a new air filter... this one was filthy, hopefully the cause of these low end richness problems.

Who is running a ram air or similar setup here? Does it really offer good gains for the hassles it brings along?

[gatch]

score me a tube?

http://www.rocol.com/corp/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=102&Itemid=121

Something like this.. Get it from most engineering supply places.

It's funny, well kind of embarrassing really. Egg on my face as it would seem..

I just looked at the operating temp of copper vs nickel anti seize. Copper is rated to a higher temp..

Though copper is TERRIBLE if the joint will stay together for prolonged periods of time.

Either way, I'll still use nickel.

[racefactory]

Everyone post a pic of their NC30/35's! Let's see some quality V4's.

[gatch]

Everyone post a pic of their NC30/35's! Let's see some quality V4's.

Mine is more dirt and scratches than quality.

I do ride it like a rodeo bull though. I did a jump on a ride a few weeks ago.. That was exciting.

[racefactory]

Let's see it. That's what they are after all- rugged beasts!

[Harvd]

Picture time i like.236059236060

[gatch]

Let's see it. That's what they are after all- rugged beasts!

236057236058

Aesthetic differences you may/may not notice, between my own bike and others..
- Weight reduction in the form of fairing wear..
- Unpainted lower fairing is just a primed glass fairing, the original lowers were smashed when I got pwned by a car.
- Double bubble tint screen (tyga), much nicer to sit behind than the OEM screen.
- Fake carbon mirrors. Not because they are bling, because they were cheap, also the OEM ones were smashed.
- Dirty. CBF cleaning it.
- Tank/groin pad is falling to bits, this is basically because I am determined that this bike will eventually bear my children.
- Welded up foot peg hanger.

Also, the other pic is of me on the Norton, going "up the hill" at pukekohe.

[Devy]

hey guys, im thinking of jetting my carbs on the nc30 ive got the rk carbs so probly a good idea to do it, ive read up the how to on 400grey and a few other websites just wondering now where i can get the 118 and 120 main jets from?

[Icemaestro]

[QUOTE=racefactory;1130030022]I've had to adjust a rear brake switch before and from memory it mounts into the rearset. There should be a hole in the casting for it to clamp into... if no provision for it on those rearsets just throw some stockers on or jimmy the switch up to the pedal with cable ties or something if it just needs to be something rudimentary to get the wof sticker.

The spare right rearset has been butchered and isn't stock, the problem I'm having is getting the downward action of the pedal to pull out the switch, what should the end of the switch connect to?

[DrunkenMistake]

Well my baby isnt home with me, so no recent photos but here ya go,

236080236078236079

[Icemaestro]

can anyone do a closeup of their right rearset?:-P to see whats holding the right rear brake switch on? i've bent a hook thingie but trying to place it right now :-P also discovered that (once I used said impact thingie on bolts) the butchered rearset is a slightly different angle which means the brake fluid tube is about 4mm too short :-| ARGH! Pictures would be great, the microfiche and google can only take me so far :-P.

[DrunkenMistake]

Im about to go and work on mine, its at a mates but he also has my GoPro cam so I will try take a photo of it there and get him to upload it here for you.

[sil3nt]

can anyone do a closeup of their right rearset?:-P to see whats holding the right rear brake switch on? i've bent a hook thingie but trying to place it right now :-P also discovered that (once I used said impact thingie on bolts) the butchered rearset is a slightly different angle which means the brake fluid tube is about 4mm too short :-| ARGH! Pictures would be great, the microfiche and google can only take me so far :-P.


Just took some photos. Let me know if they aren't what you want can easily take
more.

236084236083236082

[PirateJafa]

236089236091236087236090236092236088

Will try to get some pictures of the trackbike later if I can find my GoPro.

[sil3nt]

What is everyones favourite paint scheme? http://www.vsource.org/VFR-RVF_files/Bvfr400r-mi.htm

My top 3 would be types:
8
7
5

[del-solider]

Heres some pics of my nc35...236096236097236098236099

[Icemaestro]

Just took some photos. Let me know if they aren't what you want can easily take
more.

236084236083236082

Absolutely brilliant - thanks to that, I now know where that big metal bit I've got in my spares goes...thanks to that, I've managed to jimmy something up (only had one spring, didn't have the bit that bolts on to the bottom of the brake lever) that got through the warrant today :-D. Beauty.

And figures, just after I've got my vfr, another one comes up on trademe with 13000kms, fresh import etc...gutted

[Icemaestro]

What is everyones favourite paint scheme? http://www.vsource.org/VFR-RVF_files/Bvfr400r-mi.htm

My top 3 would be types:
8
7
5

I love 7, its the one I have at the moment (minus the purple tank and gold wheels)... would look even better with black rims and the right tank colour :-P

[DrunkenMistake]

Yeah I have type 3, But I like mine.. I think it would be better with Candy red, candy blue and pearl white.

[DrunkenMistake]

Ok, heres is the update,
The bikes running and is at idle without any problems, im not pissing out any gas any more, and everyone who said it was the float was correct, BUT.. it astuck.. haha somehow when we took the carbs off the float had become unattached so when we took them off today and turned them over it fell out, im yet to take it for a run, as its like 5degrees here and im over it haha.

[tigertim20]

Ok, heres is the update,
The bikes running and is at idle without any problems, im not pissing out any gas any more, and everyone who said it was the float was correct, BUT.. it astuck.. haha somehow when we took the carbs off the float had become unattached so when we took them off today and turned them over it fell out, im yet to take it for a run, as its like 5degrees here and im over it haha.

It was the float needle.:facepalm:
Now diling perfectly at 1300rpm.

Will take it for a test spin and drop off to you later on/tomorrow

[DrunkenMistake]

It was the float needle.:facepalm:
Now diling perfectly at 1300rpm.

Will take it for a test spin and drop off to you later on/tomorrow

Was actually about to correct that haha, and yep I start work at 12 so im not gonna be outta bed untill 11

[gatch]

hey guys, im thinking of jetting my carbs on the nc30 ive got the rk carbs so probly a good idea to do it, ive read up the how to on 400grey and a few other websites just wondering now where i can get the 118 and 120 main jets from?

Here ya go man. I just bought 118s, 120s and 122s. The 122s may be overkill, but I'm intending on a very short pipe in the future..

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Parts-for-sale/Complete-engines/auction-366183215.htm

[DrunkenMistake]

You guys must love me, keeping you busy with my simple questions and noobish knowledge haha,
Here is my next one, Does anyone know where the mounting points are for frame sliders on the NC30? I can see two but they are both on the engine and Im not completely keen to put them there although I am going to get a bracket made up so I dont have to cut my fairings, and that would reduce alot of the risk of the engine been damaged in a fall/crash

[sil3nt]

http://www.400greybike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=7593

[racefactory]

What is everyones favourite paint scheme? http://www.vsource.org/VFR-RVF_files/Bvfr400r-mi.htm

My top 3 would be types:
8
7
5

8
7
2

8 is the OKI replica colours and it looks bloody awesome.

[DrunkenMistake]

http://www.400greybike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=7593

I should really just sign up on there ae haha, and I seen those, for 60 pounds, excluding shipping... but Ill see if I cant make a similar set up ;]

[racefactory]

You guys must love me, keeping you busy with my simple questions and noobish knowledge haha,
Here is my next one, Does anyone know where the mounting points are for frame sliders on the NC30? I can see two but they are both on the engine and Im not completely keen to put them there although I am going to get a bracket made up so I dont have to cut my fairings, and that would reduce alot of the risk of the engine been damaged in a fall/crash

The good ones replace the engine mount bolt. The cheap ones go in the fairing bracket.

[racefactory]

Just raised the needles today to help out the midrange. Lowered the float height back to stock settings. Running a lot better and the mid range is great now... still not the best at the low end though.

[Icemaestro]

my nc30 feels like its not getting enough fuel when below 9000rpm in 5th and 6th gear? (4th only sometimes). Not a problem from 2-redline in 1st second and 3rd gears, so can't actually be a fueling problem, but it feels like a bike does when its running out of gas... what could it be? problem with the de-restrictor thing or something?

[koba]

hey guys, im thinking of jetting my carbs on the nc30 ive got the rk carbs so probly a good idea to do it, ive read up the how to on 400grey and a few other websites just wondering now where i can get the 118 and 120 main jets from?

Why would it be a good idea?
If it ain't broke don't fix it!

[koba]

Pics of my VFR in the bottom right of this page:

http://www.wfactor.org/?p=gallery&g=hillclimb2009&max=70&page=2

[koba]

Heres some pics of my nc35...236096236097236098236099
Eeek, snow!


What is everyones favourite paint scheme? http://www.vsource.org/VFR-RVF_files/Bvfr400r-mi.htm

My top 3 would be types:
8
7
5

hmm, I like type 9 on the NC21/24 page!

Cool link, chur.

[racefactory]

my nc30 feels like its not getting enough fuel when below 9000rpm in 5th and 6th gear? (4th only sometimes). Not a problem from 2-redline in 1st second and 3rd gears, so can't actually be a fueling problem, but it feels like a bike does when its running out of gas... what could it be? problem with the de-restrictor thing or something?

Make sure it's got the Snorkel on it. If it doesn't it won't run right in the mid range especially at higher speeds, although I never noticed anything. I'm having snorkel issues at the moment, I think i've got my mid range as good as it will get without a stock snorkel.

Get the carbs off and find out what jets are in it and how many washers are on the needles. I just shimmed my needles this evening which helped but it's still not running right in the mid range.

[koba]

my nc30 feels like its not getting enough fuel when below 9000rpm in 5th and 6th gear? (4th only sometimes). Not a problem from 2-redline in 1st second and 3rd gears, so can't actually be a fueling problem, but it feels like a bike does when its running out of gas... what could it be? problem with the de-restrictor thing or something?

How good is your battery?

[Icemaestro]

Uhh...it seems good? starter motor is good...went for a good 30sec or so the other night before I realised the kill switch was on ;-). No multimeter so no way of testing. It's just like its surging and then lagging on and off, random intervals, feels completely like a carb problem but only in those gears. could it be the clutch gears at all?

[Devy]

Why would it be a good idea?
If it ain't broke don't fix it!

i always follow that rule too but bumping the jet size is more of a performance upgrade. just like replacing your mufler. espcially for the rk models that only came with 110 jets its runs far leaner than the later models that came with 115/118 and 118/120.

oh and since im gona be commuting the bike in winter 2. a richer setup should help and those cold mornings right?

and thanks for the link gatch, i was gona go through cycletread but this guys way closer..

what im wondering now is do i go for a 118/120 setup or a 120/122 setup? the bikes just gona have an arrow race can. dont think im going to be doing much else,, :D( thats what we all say at first)

im also wondering what brand oil every1's using on their bikes during winter?
repco holds that Castrol 4T? is that good?
and i havn't read alot of good things about these hiflow oil filters(considering they are quite cheap) soo im wondering if you guys run with that filter fine?? or i can get my hands on an orignal filter? or something better than the hiflow brand?

last bike i had was a bandit. the only option was a hiflow filter and it seemed to run fine but im always a believe that its better to spend alittle more and get a better quality item.

thanks guys

[Devy]

ohh any my favourite scheme hands down is type 4. which is the colour im getting my bike painted in :D after the accident. my original scheme is type 2, i like it.. but just dont like it as much as type 4.

[sil3nt]

Anyone need a fairing bolt kit?

Will probably order one from here http://www.tastynuts.com/Products/VFR400_NC30_89_94_Fairing_Bolt_Kit_Excluding_Scree n
in the next few weeks. About $50 NZD shipped to nz. If you want one let me know as the shipping price does not change with the quantity ordered.

[gatch]

Uhh...it seems good? starter motor is good...went for a good 30sec or so the other night before I realised the kill switch was on ;-). No multimeter so no way of testing. It's just like its surging and then lagging on and off, random intervals, feels completely like a carb problem but only in those gears. could it be the clutch gears at all?

Clutch gears ?

Does it happen when you have the gas wide open for a while, or just while cruising ? Your carb bowls may be emptying faster than they can fill ? Pull your spark plugs and check for one that looks whiter than others. If one is white it indicates a lean cylinder. Which MAY indicate a blockage in your fuel line.

But I'm an idiot, don't listen to me.


i always follow that rule too but bumping the jet size is more of a performance upgrade. just like replacing your mufler. espcially for the rk models that only came with 110 jets its runs far leaner than the later models that came with 115/118 and 118/120.

oh and since im gona be commuting the bike in winter 2. a richer setup should help and those cold mornings right?

and thanks for the link gatch, i was gona go through cycletread but this guys way closer..

what im wondering now is do i go for a 118/120 setup or a 120/122 setup? the bikes just gona have an arrow race can. dont think im going to be doing much else,, :D( thats what we all say at first)

im also wondering what brand oil every1's using on their bikes during winter?
repco holds that Castrol 4T? is that good?
and i havn't read alot of good things about these hiflow oil filters(considering they are quite cheap) soo im wondering if you guys run with that filter fine?? or i can get my hands on an orignal filter? or something better than the hiflow brand?

last bike i had was a bandit. the only option was a hiflow filter and it seemed to run fine but im always a believe that its better to spend alittle more and get a better quality item.

thanks guys

Sweet.

I think the 118/120 would be max for an open pipe only. If you get full exhaust and tuned inlet then the 120/122 will be the go. Shim your needles at the same time, think about drilling the diaphragm holes too. It's all covered in the 400greybike forum.

A richer set up makes sense, as you have a colder denser air charge. More air + more fuel = more bang.

Or something.


Anyone need a fairing bolt kit?

Will probably order one from here http://www.tastynuts.com/Products/VFR400_NC30_89_94_Fairing_Bolt_Kit_Excluding_Scree n
in the next few weeks. About $50 NZD shipped to nz. If you want one let me know as the shipping price does not change with the quantity ordered.

I made my own little stainless top hat washers and use stainless cap screws. Makes it look industrial as har har har.

[Devy]

yup, doing the needle and the hole 2.. having a bit of problem sorceing a washer that small.. tried mitre 10, repco, gona try BnT tomorrow.. hopefully they have it.. or their probly know where i can get it.

checking the valve clearance 2nite 2..

hopefully its allgood then i can get the bike goin again.. :D

[racefactory]

After adjusting float heights... it really does make a difference. Worth checking them.

'Gassing it' will really show up signs of lean or rich float height settings and it will also affect cruise on a very partially open throttle. My bike was dumping excess fuel when cruising at steady throttle, coughing and clearing itself out when accelerating but I reset the float height to stock and it's beautiful now.

[racefactory]

yup, doing the needle and the hole 2.. having a bit of problem sorceing a washer that small.. tried mitre 10, repco, gona try BnT tomorrow.. hopefully they have it.. or their probly know where i can get it.

checking the valve clearance 2nite 2..

hopefully its allgood then i can get the bike goin again.. :D

Heye mate... just go to any Mitre 10 and they have a selection of zinc and copper washers in the nails/screws section including the 1/8 inch size which I use and are 1mm thickness. They fit in the needle retainer no problem. If you've got an existing 0.5mm washer then you can just use these 1mm washers on top. 0.5mm washers may be a bit hard to find but you can have mine if you want.

Devy- are you really running 110 jets with a modified end can? That must be lean as hell. If you want easy starting in the morning then you can adjust the pilot screws more on the rich side.. you can have it start up without choke from cold if you really want. Your main jet is not going to really effect your starting as the needle hasn't even started coming out at that point... I think you'd only be using pilot jet.

[gatch]

yup, doing the needle and the hole 2.. having a bit of problem sorceing a washer that small.. tried mitre 10, repco, gona try BnT tomorrow.. hopefully they have it.. or their probly know where i can get it.

checking the valve clearance 2nite 2..

hopefully its allgood then i can get the bike goin again.. :D

You could try checking with a model shop, any place that sells rc cars or something.

[racefactory]

I've got a brand new stock nc30 air filter if you want it but the plastic air filter mounting doesn't quite fit the airbox so you'll have to put it in your current one.

[DrunkenMistake]

Anyone need a fairing bolt kit?

Will probably order one from here http://www.tastynuts.com/Products/VFR400_NC30_89_94_Fairing_Bolt_Kit_Excluding_Scree n
in the next few weeks. About $50 NZD shipped to nz. If you want one let me know as the shipping price does not change with the quantity ordered.

Would like to say yes, but I have those bolts that are like, threadless screws but have a grove in them that locks into place on the fairings, I dont know if these are stock? but looking at that kit they are not included?

[DrunkenMistake]

Ok, Got my tyga package today, took what.. a week to arrive?

Clutch cable,
C spanner for Pro link,
Tyga Clutch lever,
Tyga Silver Carbon Dail surround,
and Gas cap carbon sticker,

The clutch cable has fixed my clutch problems so Woop! for that :D
(photos are off my phone in a poor lit garage so sorry about the quality)

236206236203236204236205236207236208
The only thing that I was disappointed with was the surround, as it didnt stick to the foam very well, all it needs is some super glue or some 3m double sided tape.

[Devy]

Heye mate... just go to any Mitre 10 and they have a selection of zinc and copper washers in the nails/screws section including the 1/8 inch size which I use and are 1mm thickness. They fit in the needle retainer no problem. If you've got an existing 0.5mm washer then you can just use these 1mm washers on top. 0.5mm washers may be a bit hard to find but you can have mine if you want.

Devy- are you really running 110 jets with a modified end can? That must be lean as hell. If you want easy starting in the morning then you can adjust the pilot screws more on the rich side.. you can have it start up without choke from cold if you really want. Your main jet is not going to really effect your starting as the needle hasn't even started coming out at that point... I think you'd only be using pilot jet.

hey i was at mitre 10 earlier 2day n had a look at those 1/8 washers but they dont fit into the hole where the needle sits. i need someting slightly smaller than 1/8th...

thanks for the offer mate. il have a go 2moro to find some, if not ill drop you a PM for those washers.
the model shop thing is a good idea!!. i have an old rc car somewhere around the house.. maybe it has the same washer.. :P

sucks tho. i just hit a big brick wall :/
went to take the rear pipe section out n the F**King bolts are rusted..
thats nt the worse bit... some1 has tried to take them out before, and fully rounded the bolts completely >( ugh.

ive managed to undo 1 but 2 more bolts are just far to rounded to have any grip..
any idea's on how 2 get them out?? im soaking it wit wd40 now that should lossen up the rust between the bolt n tread.

n nah racefactory i havnt actually. the arrow can is offer an ealier 92 vfr nc30 which is my brothers..
we've had the bike for a few years now its only done 22,000kms runs mint only problem is its not reg'd or wof'd. sad that its gona be dismantled soon.. i need the parts to fix my vfr now. which mean..

IF anyone's looking for some vfr parts give me a PM i have a few parts for sale.
AND i have a full tyga fairing kit, fiberglass from tailand. dad brought it over a few years ago.

[Devy]

Would like to say yes, but I have those bolts that are like, threadless screws but have a grove in them that locks into place on the fairings, I dont know if these are stock? but looking at that kit they are not included?

yeah ive gt those bolts on my fairings 2.. they definetly stock. but u can replace that metal bit on the fairing with a normal treaded screw grove

[racefactory]

Just drill out the bolts or use a decent pair of pliers to get them loose?

Bring your V4's to the coro ride next Saturday guys http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/136514-SMC-Coro-Loop-OR-SH22-Raglan-Ride?p=1130030272#post1130030272

[Devy]

my bad. ment to say nuts*. the bolts welded onto the flange.
the usual thing i do is file opposite sides down. fit an open ended spanner and that usually works but thes bolts are in an akward position.. plus the whole filling thing takes along time...

what i want 2 know is if any1 has taken the exhaust out from the block itself as a 1 peice?. and if soo is it hard? that would make it alittle easier i guess n wont take as long as filling the bolts down.

[gatch]

my bad. ment to say nuts*. the bolts welded onto the flange.
the usual thing i do is file opposite sides down. fit an open ended spanner and that usually works but thes bolts are in an akward position.. plus the whole filling thing takes along time...

what i want 2 know is if any1 has taken the exhaust out from the block itself as a 1 peice?. and if soo is it hard? that would make it alittle easier i guess n wont take as long as filling the bolts down.

Tried a cold chisel and a hammer ? OR a hammer and a dolly ?

Note, DO NOT ATTEMPT IF YOU ARE A HAM FIST.

[HenryDorsetCase]

hey i was at mitre 10 earlier 2day n had a look at those 1/8 washers but they dont fit into the hole where the needle sits. i need someting slightly smaller than 1/8th...

thanks for the offer mate. il have a go 2moro to find some, if not ill drop you a PM for those washers.
the model shop thing is a good idea!!. i have an old rc car somewhere around the house.. maybe it has the same washer.. :P

sucks tho. i just hit a big brick wall :/
went to take the rear pipe section out n the F**King bolts are rusted..
thats nt the worse bit... some1 has tried to take them out before, and fully rounded the bolts completely >( ugh.

ive managed to undo 1 but 2 more bolts are just far to rounded to have any grip..
any idea's on how 2 get them out?? im soaking it wit wd40 now that should lossen up the rust between the bolt n tread.

n nah racefactory i havnt actually. the arrow can is offer an ealier 92 vfr nc30 which is my brothers..
we've had the bike for a few years now its only done 22,000kms runs mint only problem is its not reg'd or wof'd. sad that its gona be dismantled soon.. i need the parts to fix my vfr now. which mean..

IF anyone's looking for some vfr parts give me a PM i have a few parts for sale.
AND i have a full tyga fairing kit, fiberglass from tailand. dad brought it over a few years ago.

If you've got a set of forks you want to sell, let me know. (I could be interested in a whole front end complete, too)

[HenryDorsetCase]

my bad. ment to say nuts*. the bolts welded onto the flange.
the usual thing i do is file opposite sides down. fit an open ended spanner and that usually works but thes bolts are in an akward position.. plus the whole filling thing takes along time...

what i want 2 know is if any1 has taken the exhaust out from the block itself as a 1 peice?. and if soo is it hard? that would make it alittle easier i guess n wont take as long as filling the bolts down.

you can pick up a Dremel for under a hundred bucks on special: they're good for this sort of stuff.

I really doubt you'll get the exhaust off in one piece: its really tight in there and winds round the motor and through the frame. Whatever you do, leave the rear header pipe in place because the bolts that hold it to the rear head are a complete arse to get at. theres a flange about 200mm along the pipe... use that one.

[koba]

i always follow that rule too but bumping the jet size is more of a performance upgrade. just like replacing your mufler. espcially for the rk models that only came with 110 jets its runs far leaner than the later models that came with 115/118 and 118/120.

oh and since im gona be commuting the bike in winter 2. a richer setup should help and those cold mornings right?

and thanks for the link gatch, i was gona go through cycletread but this guys way closer..

what im wondering now is do i go for a 118/120 setup or a 120/122 setup? the bikes just gona have an arrow race can. dont think im going to be doing much else,, :D( thats what we all say at first)

im also wondering what brand oil every1's using on their bikes during winter?
repco holds that Castrol 4T? is that good?
and i havn't read alot of good things about these hiflow oil filters(considering they are quite cheap) soo im wondering if you guys run with that filter fine?? or i can get my hands on an orignal filter? or something better than the hiflow brand?

last bike i had was a bandit. the only option was a hiflow filter and it seemed to run fine but im always a believe that its better to spend alittle more and get a better quality item.

thanks guys
Use the choke and it will start cold better. Thats what it's for.

Hiflow brand filters are fine, I've used them in all bike I've had and never had a problem after racking um HEAPS of road and race kays. The most likely problem to have related to oil filters is never changing them!

That Castrol oil from REPCO is sweet, again like the filters just changing it is the big step that alot of people have trouble with. They can probably get in flasher stuff in a gold pack that I quite like too, it seems to stay nice for good long time.

Pull apart an old broken stereo or something for FREE small washers.

Jetting is an interesting thing, I went down the path of following the common 'wisdom' on my bike and when I realised that was a bit dumb I put it back to how it was when I got it and it runs heaps better now. Jetting is a funny thing and what works for one bike may not be quite right for another otherwise identical bike.
Being a bit lean won't destroy a good motor instantly, do be careful but its often made out like its going to blow apart the moment it's started it it has a mainjet 1 size too lean!
Do be mindful that what seems OK for a run up a backstreet may not work well for a 3 hour country road weekend fang.
Also watch plug reading as it can be quite variable with unleaded pump petrol that changes constantly. It's not as straight forward as it looks in the books.
With your bike you essentially have 3 options:
1) Chuck jets at it. Buy a range and try them all out. This requires a god testing situation like a race track and a good feel that takes a long time to acquire to work well.
2) Dyno tune it. Worth the coin if you have made changes from stock and want to piss about changing things.
3) Leave it. Has the added bonus of being free.

[racefactory]

Is their any dyno in Auckland that we can trust with our money for these V4's? For an NC30 the dyno operator really needs to know exactly what they are doing with these particular bikes as they are extremely fussy with induction and don't react typically to changes like other bikes would, not to mention these carbs require certain tricks to get on and off. If you hand in a tampered with NC30 to just anyone you'd be literally be throwing your money away.

[racefactory]

For anyone that's interested, this is the best overview of jetting and carb setup I have seen http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,high_rpm_engines.html . Separates top, middle and low end clearly with their related tuning factors.

[Devy]

GOT the bolt out, i tried for a whole day.. dad came along. did his thing the next day got it out in an hour or soo :) thats experience for u ai.

i got the washers from a company around here called "Tools and Engineering".

just putting the bike back together now.

yeah n i saw that rear header bolt. u can definitely tell that would be a pain to take out.



Use the choke and it will start cold better. Thats what it's for.

Hiflow brand filters are fine, I've used them in all bike I've had and never had a problem after racking um HEAPS of road and race kays. The most likely problem to have related to oil filters is never changing them!

That Castrol oil from REPCO is sweet, again like the filters just changing it is the big step that alot of people have trouble with. They can probably get in flasher stuff in a gold pack that I quite like too, it seems to stay nice for good long time.

Pull apart an old broken stereo or something for FREE small washers.

Jetting is an interesting thing, I went down the path of following the common 'wisdom' on my bike and when I realised that was a bit dumb I put it back to how it was when I got it and it runs heaps better now. Jetting is a funny thing and what works for one bike may not be quite right for another otherwise identical bike.
Being a bit lean won't destroy a good motor instantly, do be careful but its often made out like its going to blow apart the moment it's started it it has a mainjet 1 size too lean!
Do be mindful that what seems OK for a run up a backstreet may not work well for a 3 hour country road weekend fang.
Also watch plug reading as it can be quite variable with unleaded pump petrol that changes constantly. It's not as straight forward as it looks in the books.
With your bike you essentially have 3 options:
1) Chuck jets at it. Buy a range and try them all out. This requires a god testing situation like a race track and a good feel that takes a long time to acquire to work well.
2) Dyno tune it. Worth the coin if you have made changes from stock and want to piss about changing things.
3) Leave it. Has the added bonus of being free.


thanks for that mate, yeah i know carbs arnt as clear cut as some ppl make it seem. just going to try it out for now if it works.. MEAN if not could always work backwards..

and cause man i use choke everymorning. wait till the bike warms up for abit then i ride it.

[montsta56]

Thought I'd share a pic of my paper weight on my desk . 30 block with pistons 444cc:Punk::Punk:. Of course this is for a Race use only. chur

[racefactory]

Sick man. Get some videos up of that thing running. Where are you getting your parts for this from?

[sil3nt]

Keeping it! It runs pretty good and doesnt need too much tinkering with fortunately. Still running rich at the low end when warm though. Front forks are decent too. Just need to get some braided lines on the front which I have got!

Also I am pleasantly surprised by the 1st gear.You said you were keeping it! http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=368188811

[racefactory]

Just standard procedure for me, doesn't mean I'm looking to sell. Always have the bike ready to go if need be.

Yes I have now got a snorkel! Looking forward to trying it out but doubtful it will cure my hiccup at 5k. Needles need a little more trial and error.

Icemaestro and me up till 12 at night yesterday tearing down his bike and resetting things. Had to take the carbs on and off 3 times :S . Runs like a champ now.

[DrunkenMistake]

Just standard procedure for me, doesn't mean I'm selling. Always have the bike ready to go if need be.

Yes I have now got a snorkel! Looking forward to trying it out but doubtful it will cure my hiccup at 5k. Needles need a little more trial and error.

Icemaestro and me up till 12 at night yesterday tearing down his bike and resetting things. Had to take the carbs on and off 3 times :S . Runs like a champ now.

You have it listed as a 250? :L haha

[racefactory]

Sold an MC22 so thought might as well make use of the fees.

Drunknmistake- we ran into the same problem as you with fuel pissing out after refitting everything and starting bike. No worries in the end though.

[DrunkenMistake]

Sold an MC22 so thought might as well make use of the fees.

Drunknmistake- we ran into the same problem as you with fuel pissing out after refitting everything and starting bike. No worries in the end though.

Uhk,
and yah mine was the float needle, all of a 30 min job haha and we spent like 20+ hours on it, the carbs are a peice of piss to get on and off with two people, we have done it so many times now haha

[Icemaestro]

Lol the one thing RF was determined to check was the float height, that was all good, I think we just hadn't done up two of the carb float bowls tight enough/the new gaskets weren't set firm enough. Considering RM synched the carbs manually without gauges etc he did a pretty damn good job! Just need a right rearset, rear brake pads, the pillion lock, and some paint and she's good as new (oh and figure out how to adjust this RS250 shock!

[racefactory]

I reckon given more time and light than last night permitted, synchronizing the carbs that way is good and would yield close results to vacuum gauges... SO much less hassle.

take carbs off and turn idle adjuster all the way up so butterflies open slightly. find something very thin like a feeler gauge or small drill and adjust the carbs so the 'tool' just slides under into the gap. Adjust the carbs following standard haynes procedures until all the butterflies can just fit the tool under evenly.

[DrunkenMistake]

Ok, so my VFR has been down the road about twice (not by me) and I had known this prior to purchasing, I have a sneaky suspicion that the left clip on isnt straight and is crimped under the grip, as it is loaded with tape under the grip and the cutch fine adjuster digs into the dial cluster when the bars are hard right, just wanting to know if anyone has ever had this problem?

[racefactory]

Ok, so my VFR has been down the road about twice (not by me) and I had known this prior to purchasing, I have a sneaky suspicion that the left clip on isnt straight and is crimped under the grip, as it is loaded with tape under the grip and the cutch fine adjuster digs into the dial cluster when the bars are hard right, just wanting to know if anyone has ever had this problem?

All NC30 clutch adjusters scrape the speedo like that.

[DrunkenMistake]

Here is a video I took today, its not overly awesome, I really need to lean more, given another month I should just about have it down to a T on this bike,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kDKF6-IQxak
let me know what you think,
Quality isnt super flash due to me resizing etc becouse I didnt want to wait 4 hours to upload a 7 min long full HD Vid.

[racefactory]

Stick it facing out the front with the gauges man... makes for a better watch and can relate to the motion of the bike better.

[DrunkenMistake]

Stick it facing out the front with the gauges man... makes for a better watch and can relate to the motion of the bike better.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eEum0muzYXw
uploaded by tigertim20, but its my footage.

[racefactory]

Great footage. Get it to the track now!

[DrunkenMistake]

yup yup, just waiting for my 250 to sell so I can buy some leathers etc

[gatch]

Ok, so my VFR has been down the road about twice (not by me) and I had known this prior to purchasing, I have a sneaky suspicion that the left clip on isnt straight and is crimped under the grip, as it is loaded with tape under the grip and the cutch fine adjuster digs into the dial cluster when the bars are hard right, just wanting to know if anyone has ever had this problem?

It only gets worse if you rotate your clutch lever down, as I have. For comfort see.

[DrunkenMistake]

I replaced the clutch cable with one I got off Tyga, as the original was stretched, it has a slightly shorty bend at the lever and the adjuster sits in a bit more, so i no longer have the problem of it digging in.

[DrunkenMistake]

The one other thing I am currently after that I see necessary is a rear stand for my NC30, If anyone has one for sale that would be great, I could buy a front and Rear but I only want a rear for the mean time, I can pick up a front and rear for about $150 off TM so If anyone is selling a rear I wouldnt want to pay much more then $50 excluding shipping

[HenryDorsetCase]

The one other thing I am currently after that I see necessary is a rear stand for my NC30, If anyone has one for sale that would be great, I could buy a front and Rear but I only want a rear for the mean time, I can pick up a front and rear for about $150 off TM so If anyone is selling a rear I wouldnt want to pay much more then $50 excluding shipping

good luck with that.

[DrunkenMistake]

good luck with that.

Thought that mayyy have been the case, never hurts to ask haha, will most likely just wait until pay day and buy the front and rear, im just getting close to needing new sprockets and chain, (so I have been advised) blahh .. haha

[sil3nt]

Trademe about $110. Bike store $130. Although your in Dunedin so i dunno what you can get down there.

[DrunkenMistake]

Trademe about $110. Bike store $130. Although your in Dunedin so i dunno what you can get down there.

Slim pickings ae, there are only 4 bike shops, one is a Harley one that only deals with pricks who want to spend more then 10grand, and the one who I trust and have found to be incredibly useful have a limited shelf stock so would need to order it in, but they can sometimes be over priced, so I am yet to ring around.

[sil3nt]

Slim pickings ae, there are only 4 bike shops, one is a Harley one that only deals with pricks who want to spend more then 10grand, and the one who I trust and have found to be incredibly useful have a limited shelf stock so would need to order it in, but they can sometimes be over priced, so I am yet to ring around.This is what the dealer said they could get for me.

http://www.whites.co.nz/products/whites%20catalogue/1142.aspx

Its on page 132 if you can navigate your way through. Or Chapter 11 page 7 if you look at the page numbers on the actual catalouge. Part number is TRMT009.

Dealers that should be able to get it listed here http://www.whites.co.nz/dealers/all/otago.aspx

Although it was out of stock when i asked the other week.

[DrunkenMistake]

Did you get a rough price? and yah MCR would be my better option

[sil3nt]

Did you get a rough price? and yah MCR would be my better option$130 for the single sided rear stand and about $180 for the front stand i believe. Had it written down just can't find it.

*edit*
$139 rear
$189 front

[DrunkenMistake]

Uhk,
I seen this on TM
Couldnt see it wouldnt do the trick?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Parts-for-sale/Stands/auction-368038424.htm

[sil3nt]

Uhk,
I seen this on TM
Couldnt see it wouldnt do the trick?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Parts-for-sale/Stands/auction-368038424.htmThat will work but has no wheels so you can't move the bike once it is up. And its the same price as one you can get from the dealer.

[DrunkenMistake]

That will work but has no wheels so you can't move the bike once it is up. And its the same price as one you can get from the dealer.

yeah the wheels thing isnt a major biggy for me, if you seen my garage floor/drive way its not exactly possible to roll anything on it anyway, and the auction is for front and rear stands. Not just the one so cheaper

[sil3nt]

Crap did not see that. Might go check them out then!

[DrunkenMistake]

Yeah man, the front has wheels, I just dont get how the rear one works? haha I had stands for my CBR250 but that was easy, roll under lift up front and rear.

[sil3nt]

I thought it would have been easier with wheels but they must work. Since the guy is local i will go check it out before i throw my cash at him.

[sil3nt]

Testing my new GoPro. Suction cup on the helmet. Is rather heavy and creates quite a bit of drag which is a little uncomfortable.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LEgGmslB5aY

About an hour to upload a 15 second video haha

[DrunkenMistake]

Testing my new GoPro. Suction cup on the helmet. Is rather heavy and creates quite a bit of drag which is a little uncomfortable.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LEgGmslB5aY

About an hour to upload a 15 second video haha

Christ, use one of the curved stick on mounts, They DO NOT come off trust me, use the suction cup for tanks and fairings etc

[DrunkenMistake]

Oh and yah you have to resize the resolution, or upload over night.

[sil3nt]

Oh and yah you have to resize the resolution, or upload over night.I will be encoding them to get a smaller file size. This was uploaded to youtube from within sony vegas so i don't actually know how it was encoded. Has to be full resolution thats why i got the camera :bleh:

[DrunkenMistake]

I will be encoding them to get a smaller file size. This was uploaded to youtube from within sony vegas so i don't actually know how it was encoded. Has to be full resolution thats why i got the camera :bleh:

Yeah, all the same looked alright positioning, I wouldnt recommend a cam ontop of your head at 160, feels like your neck is about to break haha,
Try one of those curved stick on mounts, and put it on the side of your helmet just beside your visor pretty much, it makes you feel your leaning to one side but it doesnt make your head feel floppy as, I wish I had at least 3 of these cams, would make an epic vid using different angles all cut together. I have a fuck tonne of footage on my laptop haha just need editing software and the know-how

[sil3nt]

I have the software just not really the know how. Learning quick though! Upload speeds in NZ are terrible which makes sharing videos really shit.

[Icemaestro]

I think that trademe one can do just the rear by itself? thats how hes selling the ducati one?

[DrunkenMistake]

Ya, but Its cheaper to buy the front and rear off him for .. $150 or whatever it is, then it is to pay $200+ to order it from a shop. (front and rear)

[PirateJafa]

Don't even bother getting a below-the-forks front stand. Pay the bit extra to get a headstock stand.

[HenryDorsetCase]

yeah the wheels thing isnt a major biggy for me, if you seen my garage floor/drive way its not exactly possible to roll anything on it anyway, and the auction is for front and rear stands. Not just the one so cheaper

I use my wheels all the time, particularly useful at trackdays (my bike has no sidestand)

[Devy]

hey guys i need a set of rear footrest both left n right for a nc30, last thing i need to get my green sticker off.

if any1 has any for sale could you PM me please would be keen to pick it up 2nite want to go for a ride with my mates 2moro.

thanks

[PirateJafa]

I think I've got some in the garage. Will have a look for ya later tonight.

[HenryDorsetCase]

hey guys i need a set of rear footrest both left n right for a nc30, last thing i need to get my green sticker off.

if any1 has any for sale could you PM me please would be keen to pick it up 2nite want to go for a ride with my mates 2moro.

thanks

passenger footrests?

[Devy]

passenger footrests?

yup, should have said that. my bad.

[Devy]

I think I've got some in the garage. Will have a look for ya later tonight.

thanks mate. much appreciated

[racefactory]

Well, after tinkering with various washers and air filters and the addition of a stock snorkel, I've got my V4 running like a beast! Pretty happy with it, pulls well through the mid range and flat spot is basically unnoticeable.

Little side effect of this change is that the pilot jet settings now seem a tad rich- stuttering slightly on the idle when hot and a little weak under 3k but you don't ride at those revs anyway. Carb balance is probably part of this though.

Can't be bothered getting the carbs off for the 4th time or so today so that'll do nicely.

Check out these hard to find videos of V4s being ridden how they should be. This guy below dominating a whole field of 600s etc on one of the most awesome tracks, Tsukuba!

<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="480" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/T7nKunJUsas" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Also this one of a very well set up bike having insane scraps with motards, 650s and stuff at Road America.

<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="480" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/j5kDOS4mLLk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

[Devy]

Well, after tinkering with various washers and air filters and the addition of a stock snorkel, I've got my V4 running like a beast! Pretty happy with it, pulls well through the mid range and flat spot is basically unnoticeable.

Little side effect of this change is that the pilot jet settings now seem a tad rich- stuttering slightly on the idle when hot and a little weak under 3k but you don't ride at those revs anyway. Carb balance is probably part of this though.

Can't be bothered getting the carbs off for the 4th time or so today so that'll do nicely.

Check out this hard to find video of a V4 being ridden how it should be, dominating a whole field of 600s etc on one of the most awesome tracks, Tsukuba!

<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="480" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/T7nKunJUsas" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Also this one of a very well set up bike having insane scraps with motards and stuff at Road America.

<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="480" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/j5kDOS4mLLk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

i have a noticeable idle shutter after doing the carbs aswell. u reckon it could be down to balancing?

and thats a sick video man. that my goal right now :yes:

[racefactory]

From what I've learned I think it's pilot jet settings and balancing. No matter if your carbs are perfectly in sync, if you are lean or rich on your pilots at idle it will never be steady.

Quick way to know if you are lean or rich on your idle is to blip the throttle... if the revs hang before settling down again it's lean, if the revs drop below the idle and then pick up again it's rich.

I think after you've got the pilots right then balancing will smooth out low speed running.

[Devy]

true. im probally running lean then cos it definetly hangs high for abit.
i havnt touched the pilots yet. just did the main jets and needle.

what have you done to your carbs soo far??

[racefactory]

Yeah if it hangs then it's definitely lean and that's why you aren't getting a good idle.

With regard to pilot jets, it depends if you are running a stock can or not. If you are running an after-market can then you will need slightly more rich settings than stock. A lot of guys seem to think quarter or half turn is enough.

My carbs? It's really my whole induction setup too. All I did was thoroughly clean them out, adjust the float bowl heights (stock), set pilot screws, experimented with different needle heights, add an unmodified snorkel, add the rubber flap in front of the headstock, used a different air filter.

btw does anyone know exactly why there is a sub air filter element and if there is any change if you leave it out?