VFR owners' thread, for VFRPS members and prospective members

[GerryAttrick]

As much as I don't want to admit, I can't afford to keep my vfr, bill payments have made maintainance costs terrifying to the point where if I keep it, it will turn into a shit heap.

So I would rather get rid of the lovely lovely thing while it is still fresh and good.

:(

No good saying that - you need pix and a price to wet our appetites :yes:

I love my 98 VFR800 but I have to say I have a fondness for the NC30 & 35. I'm planning to retire in a couple more years and will probably sell the 800 then but maybe I'll get a wee 400 for a spin around the Coro Loop - planning to retire down there and get away from the rat race here.

$hit - glad Er Indoors never visits this site or I'd probably be on short rations for a while...Oh thats right I am already:blink:

[gatch]

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/116936-Got-to-get-rid-of-my-baby-nc30-vfr400?p=1129610888#post1129610888

[gatch]

Well selling the vfr isn't going to happen now.

Just had an accident on the way home from work.

Wasn't paying attention enough to the opposing road at an intersection and turned in front of an oncoming car.

Bike isn't a wreck but the fairing is toast and there is a hole in the left hand crank case cover.

I'm so gutted.

[Squiggles]

Well selling the vfr isn't going to happen now.
...
Bike isn't a wreck but the fairing is toast and there is a hole in the left hand crank case cover.


Bugger, gizz a yell if its up for grabs post insurance? :O

[gatch]

Bugger, gizz a yell if its up for grabs post insurance? :O

Not a chance, at least with it being off the road for a while I can now strip it down without it being any more of a hassle than it already is.

Should be mint in a little while.

[motorbyclist]

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/118273-Any-VFR400-guys-still-got-some-road-gear?p=1129638276#post1129638276

anyone got a spare highbeam switch?

[HenryDorsetCase]

How much of an arse is it to fit the rear header pipes on an NC30? it looks like a total PITA. Should I have put the headers on while the motor was out of the frame? I could swing it from the front engine mounts and support it on a jack if that made it easier.

Still havent done more than look and soak the studs in WD40 trying to get the nuts off.

On a brighter note, the bits I got from econohonda were perfect, and I even had the right tool to do up the castle locknuts on the two adjustable mounts. So that went well.

[PirateJafa]

We found that it was easiest (after destroying a number of tools) way was to remove the rear shock and then to hacksaw through the frame to make them accessible. And I'm not kidding.

Easiest way when I bought my Two Brothers system was to get my mechanic to fit it.

[GerryAttrick]

We found that it was easiest (after destroying a number of tools) way was to remove the rear shock and then to hacksaw through the frame to make them accessible. And I'm not kidding.

Easiest way when I bought my Two Brothers system was to get my mechanic to fit it.

That sound a bit drastic. And heres me thinking maybe I'd see if I could find a non-running NC30 that I can do up over time and have a fun bike. One without plastics would be just the job as I'd then be able to justify some Tyga bodywork.:whistle:

Still I guess thats the fun of bikes..can you imagine cutting the suspension in your Fruad/Commode to get at the exhaust? :sweatdrop Oh well I'll just keep looking and if one comes up at the right (cheap) price I'll make up my mind then.

[PirateJafa]

That sound a bit drastic. And heres me thinking maybe I'd see if I could find a non-running NC30 that I can do up over time and have a fun bike. One without plastics would be just the job as I'd then be able to justify some Tyga bodywork.:whistle:

Still I guess thats the fun of bikes..can you imagine cutting the suspension in your Fruad/Commode to get at the exhaust? :sweatdrop Oh well I'll just keep looking and if one comes up at the right (cheap) price I'll make up my mind then.

Apart from the fact that I cannot, for the life of me, understand why anyone would spend money on Tyga fairings over the originals, don't let my words of doom and gloom put you off.

It is indeed do-able. Just make sure you have beer at hand. (Although not as much beer as we'd had at hand, else it'll end up the same)

And lo and behold, the requested pictures have magically appeared!

[HenryDorsetCase]

Wouldnt it have been easier to drop the motor out? cutting Mr Frame seems, um, drastic.

Gerry: I have the hell deal NC30 for you..... get in touch.

[Bald Eagle]

Anybody got a fuel pump for my 1986 vfr700f , with or without the extra little relay box thingy ?

[vifferman]

Are you sure you actually need one? I'm not taking the piss or anything, but I know that many owners of older model VFRs on the VFR Discussion forum (http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?) have successfully removed their fuel pump, as in many/most cases it isn't really required. It's kind of engineering overkill on Honda's part.
However, having said that, I don't now first-hand what the dynamics of the VFR700's fuel tank and carbs are, and whether it will function fine without the pump.
Another option if you can't find one (unless you want to keep you bike in stock OEM condition) is to replace it with some other automotive fuel pump.

[motorbyclist]

Wouldnt it have been easier to drop the motor out? cutting Mr Frame seems, um, drastic.

Gerry: I have the hell deal NC30 for you..... get in touch.

takes about 3 swipes with a hacksaw to get through the thin aluminium, and the chassis was a melted mess after someone had a fuel tap oopsie ayway :P

of course, if you want to do it without cuttig the chassis open, remove rear fairings and maybe even the subframe, lift bike by top subframe mount mount or some of the rear engine mounts, and remove the rear shock (or atleast unbolt it at the top)

or pay your mechanic to do it.

[HenryDorsetCase]

of course, if you want to do it without cuttig the chassis open, remove rear fairings and maybe even the subframe, lift bike by top subframe mount mount or some of the rear engine mounts, and remove the rear shock (or atleast unbolt it at the top)

or pay your mechanic to do it.

Option 1. I had another look at it last night and thats what I will do. the subframe is 4 bolts, shock mount is two.

[motorbyclist]

good luck - tell us how long it takes as I've got half a roll of heat-wrap and I'm thinking of using it to try and keep the tail (and the seat) from heating up so much... might help the shock a bit too as there's a few rust spots and dirt on the otherwise reflective heat cover....

[HenryDorsetCase]

It took me an hour on Sunday to get the rear header pipe onto the exhaust studs. Next time I put a motor in one of these, I reckon put the motor on blocks, attach as many of the ancilliaries as possible, break the bike down so you can attach the frame to the engine, et viola.... everything is so bloody small, so densely packed it drives me MENTAL!

and I havent got the lower clamps or seals that get the Y pipe into the headers. grrrrrrrrrrrr.

hopefully once I do, thats the hardest part over.

[Jonno.]

Okay. So I just brought myself a very cheap 1989 VFR NC30 today :Punk:.
It's in dire need of some loving: cracked tail fairing and major scratches but fixable. Mechanically sound.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Sports/auction-273633500.htm

The previous owner dropped the bike like it was going out of fasion :bye:.
But good deal for me. New windscreen tomorrow and hopefull a new front brake. (I test rode without a front brake, not to mension the only way to get down to the road from his house was via a steep gravel road; needless to say it wasn't until I got half way down did I realised what a stupid idea that was :angry:).

Anyway, a few questions.

1. What kind of suspension options are there for this bike. I have done extensive reading but would like opinions? I have read that the stock leaves a lot to be desired and that 1989 models don't have an external reservior and that it gets too hot. Does anyone keep their stock suspension or would you recomend a rebuild or going to post 89 NC30 rear shock?

2. I read someone in here (cannot remember who) put Ohlins into their NC30. Was it worth it?
How much did it cost and did you get front and rear?

3. What's a good front tyre?

[PirateJafa]

Keep an eye on wreckers for later-model shock, but remember that there is no guarantee that the "new" shock will be any better. Generally people just keep their suspension. New oil in the front is about the limit of the adjustments. The price of Ohlins etc is pretty prohibitive for these bikes.

If you test-rode without trying the front brakes, hope like hell that those allegedly "new" front discs are straight.

Good front tyre is a Dunlop GPR A10. Good rear tyre if you're looking for stickyness is the same (GPR A10), but if you want a bit more longevity, go for a Dunlop GPR100.

[HenryDorsetCase]

O
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Sports/auction-273633500.htm


Anyway, a few questions.

1. What kind of suspension options are there for this bike. I have done extensive reading but would like opinions? I have read that the stock leaves a lot to be desired and that 1989 models don't have an external reservior and that it gets too hot. Does anyone keep their stock suspension or would you recomend a rebuild or going to post 89 NC30 rear shock?

2. I read someone in here (cannot remember who) put Ohlins into their NC30. Was it worth it?
How much did it cost and did you get front and rear?

3. What's a good front tyre?

1. Pull the forks and sell them to me. Or send them to CKT for a rebuild/gold valves and whatnot. about a grand

2. I put an Ohlins in my VFR400 trackday toy. dollar for dollar this is the best money you can spend on any bike. Its a LOT though. around $1600 at the time, no idea now.. Having said that, second hand Ohlins shocks have a trade in value, and a second hand value, and the customer service from CKT is completely faultless, even for me, a wobbling munter from down south. I needed to because I put a 17 inch RVF rear rim on mine, and I needed to gain back the lost rear ride height. Bear in mind also that your stock shock is 20 years old. so whatever damping it had was probably screwed in about 1995, particularly as they run hot due to the location of the rear header pipes....

3. Dunlop GPR Alpha 10.

I actually asked Robert whether Ohlins forks were available for the NC30 but his response was they were made for bigger bikes, the best course was the rebuild, new internals route.

Plus sourcing RWU Ohlins forks might be a mision. then you'd have to fit the wheel/discs calipers and get to buggering round with the triple clamps. Not really worthwhile, unless money was no object and you had no desire ever to sell it.

One of mine (I only have two) has a full Suzuki RGV250 USD fork/wheel combo onit. That might be for sale at some point, if I can ever source some NC30 forks.

[Jonno.]

Thanks for the replys.

Getting a stand made up (hopefully) this weekend and new master cylinder today and getting the r/r fixed ("new" but multimeter reading up to 17 volts at 4000 revs :gob:). Very sad not being able to ride it (don't want to fuck up the battery).

I'll definitely have to think about suspension but that's probably towards the end of/after this project anyway. I'm going to take the forks apart (or have it done) cause they need painting anyway.
Fortunately I have a time limit for this projects (full in 4 months) But I want to be riding it as soon as :yes:

And yes I did check everything over many times because I was very dubious especially due to the very bad English in the ad. But I believe I paid a fair price (not the tm price) considering he just spent about a 3rd of the price on it.

[Jonno.]

Does anyone have any idea where I can get a new master cylinder?
Or what other common models will fit/work (I've read 600 cbr)?

Thanks

[koba]

Does anyone have any idea where I can get a new master cylinder?
Or what other common models will fit/work (I've read 600 cbr)?

Thanks

Whats wrong with the old one?

[Jonno.]

It's in two pieces:laugh:

[lostinflyz]

Ohlins is the shit, but if your just on road, itll be cheaper to retrofit another shock.

For your master cylinder, any will work, but there are various piston diameter sizes, i cant rem what the original vfr is off the top of my head.

just a question but why are you painting your forks??? i assume you mean the outers.

If you wanna ride it just unhook the r/r, but dont go too far.



on a side note does anyone have any interest in my 4 into 2 exhaust (one left side, one undertail)???

[Jonno.]

Thanks I've found a 14mm master cylinder.
I'm painting the forks because they're scratched.
Thanks for the tip, I'll take it out for a little put but as I live up a 40 degree hill not too far :yes:

[motorbyclist]

1. What kind of suspension options are there for this bike. I have done extensive reading but would like opinions? I have read that the stock leaves a lot to be desired and that 1989 models don't have an external reservior and that it gets too hot. Does anyone keep their stock suspension or would you recomend a rebuild or going to post 89 NC30 rear shock?

2. I read someone in here (cannot remember who) put Ohlins into their NC30. Was it worth it?
How much did it cost and did you get front and rear?


the 1990 onwards had some adjustments in the front like preload and compression, and most racers reckon the rear is buggered if it's the original part.

Yes you can get the rear rebuilt, and you can get ohlins internals for the front and a whole ohlins unit for the rear.

if you ask me, you should get it working as it is first, then get the blingy parts as/if you require them. my NC35 has a heat shield fitted over the rear shock so perhaps look into fitting something reflective in there for that effect.


I know the current (maybe previous) owner of thie bike --> http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=272112828 and damn it looks and sounds good, but my stock (and bent) vfr still gave him the learn so if it's speed you're after, skill (and/or stupidity) are just as effective ;)

[motorbyclist]

Thanks I've found a 14mm master cylinder.

looking for some calipers? :blip:

[Jonno.]

Lol, thanks. I'm just weighing up my options at the moment.
Main priority getting it 'up to stock' again.

[CRM]

Just swapped my VStrom for a mint 2002 VFR800 with Staintune pipes. I rode a '91 and a '99 and liked them okay - but just love the 02. It's a total grin machine from the instant I rode it. I think the sound of the Staintunes helps a bit :Punk:

Anyway... there was no tool kit with it and I understand you need the special tool to adjust the chain. Are these hard to get or is there something else you can use that works okay?

I'm leaving tomorrow for a trip from Whangarei to Gore and back so no doubt I'll need to adjust the chain at some stage :blink:.

Anything else I should watch on them when doing large distances? I don't even know where you check the radiator water level - I'm guessing you need to remove the fairings?

Thanks :done:

[GerryAttrick]

Just swapped my VStrom for a mint 2002 VFR800 with Staintune pipes. I rode a '91 and a '99 and liked them okay - but just love the 02. It's a total grin machine from the instant I rode it. I think the sound of the Staintunes helps a bit :Punk:

Anyway... there was no tool kit with it and I understand you need the special tool to adjust the chain. Are these hard to get or is there something else you can use that works okay?

I'm leaving tomorrow for a trip from Whangarei to Gore and back so no doubt I'll need to adjust the chain at some stage :blink:.

Anything else I should watch on them when doing large distances? I don't even know where you check the radiator water level - I'm guessing you need to remove the fairings?

Thanks :done:

The chain is adjusted by using a C-Spanner. The sort of thing used to tighten handlebars on bicycles (but larger). They should be easy enough to get and I'd get one. You could try tapping the adjuster round with a hammer and screwdriver if you are a member of the "bodger brigade" as eventually you would stuff it up. Why not just call into a Honda dealer and ask them to give it a "tweak" if you think it needs it.

The only thing you need to really watch is the regulator/rectifier - these are crap on the VFR (and many Hondas). If you can get a real cheap small multimeter from Dick Smith then grab it and hard wire it into the battery for the trip and cable tie it where you can read it. I got 2 for $10 a while back. That will let you see that the charging system is OK.

When you get back join OzVFR and VFR Discussion - the two best sites for anythin related to the big VFRs.

You are going to love that bike and belive me with not too much spent (mainy on suspenders) they will give their sportbike brothers a big surprise.

[CRM]

Cool mate thanks for that - I'm so looking forward to the trip on the VFR. My daughter is coming too on her 09 250 Ninja - which should help me keep my licence hopefully :)

[HenryDorsetCase]

I bought a VFR (400) chain adjuster tool off ebay.co.uk. You dont want to know what a Honda dealer will charge you for the honda toolkit one. cost me about $25 landed IIRC

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Honda-RVF400-NC35-VFR400-NC30-Chain-Adjuster-Tool_W0QQitemZ300407333306QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Mo torcycle_Parts?hash=item45f1ac21ba

heres the equivalent for VFR800

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Chain-Hub-Adjuster-Tool-Honda-VFR-800-VFR750-RC30-RC45_W0QQitemZ290406763491QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Mo torcycle_Parts?hash=item439d978be3

[Squiggles]

use a screwdriver and hammer :eek::chase:

[Jonno.]

I think I read in the manual you have to take the swingarm off to get the chain off on the NC30 is this correct?

[PirateJafa]

No. [10char]

[Swoop]

heres the equivalent for VFR800

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Chain-Hub-Adjuster-Tool-Honda-VFR-800-VFR750-RC30-RC45_W0QQitemZ290406763491QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Mo torcycle_Parts?hash=item439d978be3
It was interesting that the US VFR guys hadn't seen the full toolkit that the rest of the world are supplied with. They appear to get about 3 tools & "that's your lot, charlie!".

[vifferman]

I think I read in the manual you have to take the swingarm off to get the chain off on the NC30 is this correct?
Only if you want to get it off intact. Normally, you would break the master link, and if you wanted to re-use the chain, fit a new master. Of course, for the modest power the NC30 produces, you could use a clip-type link. I used one on my VTR1000 for a year or so wih no problems...

[HenryDorsetCase]

I think I read in the manual you have to take the swingarm off to get the chain off on the NC30 is this correct?

if the chain is stuffed you can grind the pins and remove it, but you are left with the problem of having to rivet the master on the new chain. The last set I bought from Cycletreads and Don did the riveting FOC.

[HenryDorsetCase]

use a screwdriver and hammer :eek::chase:

Jebus! please dont! think of the next owner!

[GerryAttrick]

Jebus! please dont! think of the next owner!

Hey, Don't get me wrong guys!!!

I said" You could try tapping the adjuster round with a hammer and screwdriver if you are a member of the "bodger brigade" as eventually you would stuff it up"

No way am I suggesting this method...guess I should have put a "smiley" in there. I've found Honda dealers usually will give things the odd "tweak" free of charge. I had to tighten a mirror in Tauranga once and they were happy to do it for me.

[koba]

Hey, Don't get me wrong guys!!!

I said" You could try tapping the adjuster round with a hammer and screwdriver if you are a member of the "bodger brigade" as eventually you would stuff it up"

No way am I suggesting this method...guess I should have put a "smiley" in there. I've found Honda dealers usually will give things the odd "tweak" free of charge. I had to tighten a mirror in Tauranga once and they were happy to do it for me.

Bah, A screwdriver and hammer will work just fine aslong as you use a bit of brain power.

Not that I need to because MY VFR has a proper swingarm!

[motorbyclist]

Bah, A screwdriver and hammer will work just fine aslong as you use a bit of brain power.!

no, it wont

it destroys all the "pegs" and fucks things up for the future

if you must use a hammer, get a bit of aluminium (i use a squished 4.5mm pipe) that is softer than the metal on the bike so that your sacrificial tool gets mushed rather than your financially-non-replaceable chain tensioner

[motorbyclist]

I think I read in the manual you have to take the swingarm off to get the chain off on the NC30 is this correct?

I can only think of a handful of bikes that don't require the swingarm removal.

It's much easier to either grind or cut the chain and replace the master link later. Clip type would do fine just remember to put the clip on the right way

[gatch]

The chain adjustment tool is just a big c-spanner.. You can get ones that flex to accomodate many sizes for cheap.. No hitting with screwdrivers or drifts. no specialist tools..

Or if you are awesome like me you can make one for free :D

[koba]

no, it wont

it destroys all the "pegs" and fucks things up for the future

if you must use a hammer, get a bit of aluminium (i use a squished 4.5mm pipe) that is softer than the metal on the bike so that your sacrificial tool gets mushed rather than your financially-non-replaceable chain tensioner

I've never had to change the chain tension on a silly single sider but my NSR swingarm bolt with the castle nut kind of thing works fine time and time again with very well considerd hits with an old screwdriver and hammer.

[Jonno.]

I can only think of a handful of bikes that don't require the swingarm removal.

It's much easier to either grind or cut the chain and replace the master link later. Clip type would do fine just remember to put the clip on the right way

Thanks, I think I'll leave that one to the bike shops. I've had enough fun with the carb and loosing shims :lol:

[motorbyclist]

shop is a good call - most places do short jobs like that for free if they're worth visiting in the first place

I've never had to change the chain tension on a silly single sider .....

then don't go giving advice about them when you have no idea how (in)competent the other person might be with a hammer:bash:

[Warr]

1990 VFR750F Parts on TradeMe

Clearing out the garage and have posted some goodies for auction - Includes :

1990 VFR750F REAR WHEEL
1990 VFR750F FRONT WHEEL & DISC's
1990-3 VFR750F VFR 750 CARBURETOR SET
1990 VFR750F FRONT GUARD
1990 VFR750F HEADLIGHT
1990 VFR750F INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
1990 VFR750F CLUTCH
VFR750F Instrument Bezel Cluster

All here http://www.trademe.co.nz/Members/Listings.aspx?member=203731

[Jonno.]

Anyone know where I can get a rear brake lever + gear lever?

[PirateJafa]

AJ @ Motohaus might have some lying around that he'd be willing to sell ya.

[denefoster]

Hi, my name is Dane. I'm now a VFR owner too. Prepare for silly questions :)

Like this; 94 nc35, okay to run 160s on 'em ? I've got a stack of race attacks in the garage. Run them on my Husky (which was a 150 stock as well). Would be nice to share tires.

[PirateJafa]

As long as there is no clearance issues with the chain on the left and the exhausts on the right, I can't see any reason why not.

I wouldn't run them personally, as I prefer the more flickable handling characteristics of the stock sizes (have tried different tyre profiles and didn't like 'em).

[denefoster]

Not sure how it compares to the Husky, but the OEM Dunlops were 150/60s and rocked, but only lasted 2500kms, tried a 160/55 road attack and it was pants. Mucho happiness with the 160/55 race attacks though. Will give'm a shot and see how it goes I suppose.

[CRM]

I bought a VFR (400) chain adjuster tool off ebay.co.uk. You dont want to know what a Honda dealer will charge you for the honda toolkit one. cost me about $25 landed IIRC

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Honda-RVF400-NC35-VFR400-NC30-Chain-Adjuster-Tool_W0QQitemZ300407333306QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Mo torcycle_Parts?hash=item45f1ac21ba

heres the equivalent for VFR800

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Chain-Hub-Adjuster-Tool-Honda-VFR-800-VFR750-RC30-RC45_W0QQitemZ290406763491QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Mo torcycle_Parts?hash=item439d978be3

Just got back from our trip around the South Island - 4330km. The VFR was great! Awesome bike. Unfortunately had a little drop in the McDonalds Hornby car park - managed to snap both mirrors off and put a couple of little scratches in the fairing and squash my foot under the bike trying to save it (I had about 50kg of gear on the back). The guys at Hornby Honda were great - sorted out some replacement mirrors and put them on while they made me put my foot up- fantastic service there.

When we got back up to Welly yesterday I could see the rear tyre wasn't going to make it home (could see the centre coming through) so went to Motomart and they sorted me out a Road Pilot 2 which feels great (had a Metzeler before). They also adjusted the chain for me. I got them to price a C Spanner while I was there and as it was 'only' $30 I've ordered one from them.

A few pics from our trip below... I was riding with my daughter on her '09 250 Ninja. I thought I might be waiting around but she set a cracking pace - had to use the Vtec a few times to catch her!

Pics are Lake Waiola (south of Dunedin), Crown Ranges (Queenstown), Lewis Pass (after fresh snow - 2 degrees!), Ruapehu and The Damage :blink:

[Jonno.]

Does anyone know if NC30 and CBR 400 have the same rear brake/gear levers? I had a look and they look the same but...
Had a search but no luck.

[HenryDorsetCase]

Does anyone know if NC30 and CBR 400 have the same rear brake/gear levers? I had a look and they look the same but...
Had a search but no luck.

also are the forks the same?

[vifferman]

Just got back from our trip around the South Island - 4330km. The VFR was great! Awesome bike.
Almost as good as a 5th gen VFR800, eh?
What on earth have you got on the back of it?!? It's HUGE! :blink:

[koba]

also are the forks the same?

Nope. <tenchar>

[CRM]

Almost as good as a 5th gen VFR800, eh?
What on earth have you got on the back of it?!? It's HUGE! :blink:

It's one of those expandable San Remo bags facing forwards over a ventura rack plus a shuttle bag on the back of the rack which holds my laptop and projector plus a suit bag on top for my 'good' clothes for when I'm presenting to clients. The San Remo rain cover goes over the lot. Works fine until the whole thing falls on your foot... :blink:

I've just bought a couple of Oxford soft panniers so I can put some of the weight lower which I'm hoping will allow a bit more sporty riding :scooter:.

[Jonno.]

Another quick q. What temps do your nc30s run at?

[motorbyclist]

Another quick q. What temps do your nc30s run at?

depends on what we're doing with them - sitting in traffic or ripping around the track it can get hot enough for the fan to come on, but just general communting usually doesn't get too far past half way, but even then the chassis will be hot to the touch as there isn't too much room for air to move in there

places like queen st WILL set off your fan with those bloody 30 second pedestrian phases if you try going up the whole road

[Jonno.]

Thanks. Perfect answer.

[PirateJafa]

places like queen st WILL set off your fan with those bloody 30 second pedestrian phases if you try going up the whole road

Unless you hit the killswitch and walk your bike across during the pedestrian phases. :innocent:

[monkey99]

Can anyone provide advice on a couple of subjects?

A) HT Lead replacement for RVF 400 NC35 '96
B) Recommend a road/sport rear shock unit with adjustable ride height
C) recommend rearsets

any help would be good :)

Also have serious (& seal damageing) pitting on front stanchions so ideas & costs for a grind rechrome, new stanchions or what would be good full shock replacement would be cool

cheers

[Squiggles]

Also have serious (& seal damageing) pitting on front stanchions so ideas & costs for a grind rechrome, new stanchions or what would be good full shock replacement would be cool

Better off looking at lostinflyz parts that he listed on trademe (http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.asp?id=281822638), $275 for the replacement forks i think...

[monkey99]

Gravy.. bought the rear unit & will get that rebuilt over the 300 quid for a Nitron.. still not resolved the pitting and damage to the front stanchions.. but hey good assist Squiggles ;)

Still need assistance on

A) HT Lead replacement for RVF 400 NC35 '96
C) recommend rearsets to replace the tired originals

[HenryDorsetCase]

Can anyone provide advice on a couple of subjects?

A) HT Lead replacement for RVF 400 NC35 '96
B) Recommend a road/sport rear shock unit with adjustable ride height
C) recommend rearsets

any help would be good :)

Also have serious (& seal damageing) pitting on front stanchions so ideas & costs for a grind rechrome, new stanchions or what would be good full shock replacement would be cool

cheers

No idea for 1, but for 2 You cannot go wrong with Ohlins. Bring money.

3 I have been considering getting a set of these off of ebay.co.uk: they are cheap as chups and look OK: I got a set out of thailand off ebay but the guy has put his price up too much lately. If you want to get two sets of rearsets in and split shipping, I would think aobut it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/honda-VFR-400-NC30-NC35-Rearsets-rearsets-adjustable_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem563b3c3662QQ itemZ370360989282QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccess ories

thailand guy.


http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Universal-Yoshimura-Rearsets-Honda-Rvf-Vfr-Nc30-Nc35_W0QQitemZ320513876328QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Mo torcycle_Parts?hash=item4aa01da168

36 quid...... say 50 quid or so. thats still about $150NZD landed, right?

[HenryDorsetCase]

Ivew been looking for a set of forks for ages. I stupidly let a set go on tardme because I forgot to lodge an auto bid.

I am considering getting a set off ebay out of the UK: trouble is that they use salt on their roads and their bikes tend to do a lot more k's than ours.

[monkey99]

Ivew been looking for a set of forks for ages. I stupidly let a set go on tardme because I forgot to lodge an auto bid.

I am considering getting a set off ebay out of the UK: trouble is that they use salt on their roads and their bikes tend to do a lot more k's than ours.

Contact lostinflynz as he has a set of showa in good nick.. does not come with triple clamps however.. going for about $280

[Squiggles]

could always convert to another bikes front end...



http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Universal-Yoshimura-Rearsets-Honda-Rvf-Vfr-Nc30-Nc35_W0QQitemZ320513876328QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Mo torcycle_Parts?hash=item4aa01da168

36 quid...... say 50 quid or so. thats still about $150NZD landed, right?

$107, pound has gone to shit lately (1 GBP = 2.14647 NZD)

[HenryDorsetCase]

Contact lostinflynz as he has a set of showa in good nick.. does not come with triple clamps however.. going for about $280

They are NC35 (USD) though, and I need NC30 (RWU) because i have everything else" triple clamps included.

[Jonno.]

I had my eye on the $100 rear sets. Dude on 400GB ordered some.

http://www.400greybike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=17038&start=0

[monkey99]

jesus after reading that post on 400 I'm just going to wait till I have some coin for real rearsets... whats the rush for a disaster?

[koba]

Jeeze, whats wrong with finding/buying some ally plate and hitting it with a drill, hacksaw and file for the rearsets?
Is telly that good these days?

[Jonno.]

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VFR-400-RVF-CBR-Hornet-CNC-Brake-Clutch-Short-Levers_W0QQitemZ250606632688QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_ Motorcycle_Parts?hash=item3a5951bef0#shId

Shorty levers for VFR for 31GBP. Worth the risk?

[motorbyclist]

Can anyone provide advice on a couple of subjects?

A) HT Lead replacement for RVF 400 NC35 '96
B) Recommend a road/sport rear shock unit with adjustable ride height
C) recommend rearsets

any help would be good :)

Also have serious (& seal damageing) pitting on front stanchions so ideas & costs for a grind rechrome, new stanchions or what would be good full shock replacement would be cool

cheers

the leads on my NC35 are inseperable from the coils - and as some kind fuckwit didn't put on of the leads on properly in the past i'm now running an NC30 coil/leads in place of the damaged unit. been fine for over 12 months of daily commuting now....


They are NC35 (USD) though, and I need NC30 (RWU) because i have everything else" triple clamps included.

probably would have helped if you mentioned they were NC30 forks then :Pokey:

rechrome etc is about $300, but i can't remember where that quote came from....

I'd suggest you get the proper front end seeing as you're looking for a decent rear setup also

[motorbyclist]

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VFR-400-RVF-CBR-Hornet-CNC-Brake-Clutch-Short-Levers_W0QQitemZ250606632688QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_ Motorcycle_Parts?hash=item3a5951bef0#shId

Shorty levers for VFR for 31GBP. Worth the risk?

why bother? I've seen "normal" levers on trademe for less than 20 bucks.... cycletreads might have those shorty ones available anyway so consumer guarantees etc for around the same price

[Jonno.]

More leverage, less knuckle crushing lol.
I might go see ct and see what it would cost, although I was looking at geniune pazzos in suzuki/triumph for 150 each lever :sick:

[Jonno.]

Does anyone know where I can get a NC30 screen brace? I walked into one of my mirrors a while ago and "twang" :lol:

Thanks.

[motorbyclist]

More leverage, less knuckle crushing lol.

something wrong with your clutch?


Does anyone know where I can get a NC30 screen brace? I walked into one of my mirrors a while ago and "twang" :lol:


you mean those metal frame things that are a mission to find even genuine?

if you find a straight one without buying a whole new bike, TELL US

[HenryDorsetCase]

Tyga do a re-pop one dont they? or is that just for their fairings. Ive seen a screen brace on tardme before.

[Jonno.]

Yeah, when I went did a coro loop with two other NC30s I could see their perfect screen braces :bye:

I've emailed econohonda so I'll see what that's like.

[Jonno.]

$112 + frieght:bye:

[jono035]

Yeah, when I went did a coro loop with two other NC30s I could see their perfect screen braces :bye:

I've emailed econohonda so I'll see what that's like.

Yeah, the brace is perfect on mine, but the right hand side bolt seems to be stripped out in the frame though... Need to pull it out and helicoil it.

[motorbyclist]

I've emailed econohonda so I'll see what that's like.


$112 + frieght:bye:

check before you buy (not that you can tell if it's not on the bike)

I went to get a tank from them and after driving all the way there both tanks had crash damage


on my old viffer I managed to bend mine back into shape pretty well using a long pipe and a LOT of patience, but no such luck on the riffer.

Also, some fibreglass fairings just aren't very good.

[HenryDorsetCase]

My 35GBP footrests and hangers and stuff arrived yesterday. They look all right, particularly for the money. I was pissy because I thought I had ordered silver and got black, but on checking I ordered black by mistake. They'll be fine for my use (spares for the trackbike).

If I remember I will bolt them up on my other VFR and take a snap

[Jonno.]

Na I have original fairings. I'm going to attempt to get it welded again.

I've had a very average service from econohonda but their response time is pretty good. But 112.50 for a gear lever :laugh:

[Jonno.]

My 35GBP footrests and hangers and stuff arrived yesterday. They look all right, particularly for the money. I was pissy because I thought I had ordered silver and got black, but on checking I ordered black by mistake. They'll be fine for my use (spares for the trackbike).

If I remember I will bolt them up on my other VFR and take a snap
Awesome! I'd love to know what you think of the quality and fit?

[HenryDorsetCase]

I need a wiring loom complete (for an NC30) if anyone has a spare. And maybe a CDI

[Jonno.]

There was a cdi on tm a few weeks ago.
What happened?

[HenryDorsetCase]

My "project" NC30 came with fairly average* looking wiring. The motor is in, turns over but there is no spark. Its not cost effective to fuck about with the loom as is. I have sourced a loom, and that might fix it. If not, new CDI time. Yay. I canl try and make it run with the CDI out of my track bike first up. I have pretty much lost interest in the project, so when I get it running I will selll it. But its worth nothing if it doesnt run. If it doesent run I will wreck it out on trademe, and keep the rego plate and mainframe, in case I ever want to put my other one back on the street. Hilarity.

Oh, by "I" I mean Mr SpannerMan, who is actually doing this for me. As I say, I've pretty much lost interest.

[koba]

My "project" NC30 came with fairly average* looking wiring. The motor is in, turns over but there is no spark. Its not cost effective to fuck about with the loom as is. I have sourced a loom, and that might fix it. If not, new CDI time. Yay. I canl try and make it run with the CDI out of my track bike first up. I have pretty much lost interest in the project, so when I get it running I will selll it. But its worth nothing if it doesnt run. If it doesent run I will wreck it out on trademe, and keep the rego plate and mainframe, in case I ever want to put my other one back on the street. Hilarity.

Oh, by "I" I mean Mr SpannerMan, who is actually doing this for me. As I say, I've pretty much lost interest.

Pulse coils? <ten Char>

[HenryDorsetCase]

Old CDI was toast.

[jono035]

Old CDI was toast.

So still lookin for that new CDI then?

[HenryDorsetCase]

Nah, I have officially lost interest. I am going to sell it with full disclosure, or wreck it out on trademe. I have a VFR400 trackbike which is setup really nicely and runs well (if not in great cosmetic condition) and thats enough. If I can afford it, I would like a Street Triple next year. Want to keep the Scrambler too.

[gatch]

This may be a well known thing already. But I just came across a website of a UK based shop. They deal in replacement electrickery for japanese bikes. They sell regulator/rectifiers for our gorgeous vfr's. Also NEW 18 pole generator units for about 100 pounds.

Lots of different models covered there.

http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/home-1-0.html

[Harvd]

Yup just bought one and installed today. finally all running nicely again. mind you i replaced the entire charging system...with a new battery and r6 r/r

[motorbyclist]

I'll just leave this here then:
http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/parts/part_31330/

and there's a guy who sells programmable CDI units for NC30 also

[motorbyclist]

http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/parts/part_22860/

:blip:

[jono035]

The programmable CDIs are Ignitech units (made in Czech Republic) and sold by Rick Oliver (http://www.rvf.dk/rickoliver/) in the UK. I've got one of them at the moment so I've also got a spare CDI in perfect condition that I may look to sell.

I also bought a set of jets and needles off him to shift it to the UK stock jet sizes (a little richer) before playing with the CDI. The CDIs look like a pretty well made unit, lots of stuff to play with.

Total cost: GBP 215 or about $470 all up, shipped.

Will install all that over the next week or 2 and report back if anyone is interested.

[koba]

Will install all that over the next week or 2 and report back if anyone is interested.

Yeah, Let us know.

[imac]

I'm toying with getting a VFR800 spending in the $12k range, are there any "gotchas" or common problems that I should be looking out for?
Cheers

[glegge]

i have a vfr800 VTEC 2002.

the oil lines that run to the cooler (kneal down in front of bike and look up under cowling under where the head lights are) you will see the oil cooler and two silver pipes going away, one from each end. they have a rubber cover over the hoses. the hoses rusted on mine. so check these hoses for rust. you dont want oil coming out of these like i did. and they are about 300 bucks to replace.

timing chain noise at start up, cold idle (up to about 70deg on the temperature gauge). this is common from what i read, and can be fixed by new timing chain tensioners, i'm told. not a hard/ but tricky job.

thats about all i can think of.

PS, mines coming up for 115,000 oil change now.

[vifferman]

I'm toying with getting a VFR800 spending in the $12k range, are there any "gotchas" or common problems that I should be looking out for?
Cheers
There were several recalls for various things in Mrka and Yrp, but here where we don't have a culture of litigation, I don't think they were instigated. They involved the proportioning valve for the combined braking system, the stator on some years, the front wiring harness (a common source of electrical faults). The earlier 800s (19989 - 2001) had none of these problems, nor the horrible Honda camchain tensioners.

[motorbyclist]

having ridden both the new vtec one and old gear driven cam one for a summer, I prefer the old one by miles.

[denefoster]

Anyone have a source for left hand switch gear for an NC35 ? Stupid people burning out the low beam with high watt bulbs + no relay. And stupid me for then dismantling the switch..

Or should I just rig up a new switch ?

[jono035]

I'm looking for some NC30 bits, left front indicator and left mirror. Hopefully someone has some pieces lying around from a track-converted NC30.

[PirateJafa]

I'm looking for some NC30 bits, left front indicator and left mirror. Hopefully someone has some pieces lying around from a track-converted NC30.

Contact me, bring cider.

[jono035]

Contact me, bring cider.

Roger that.

[vifferman]

Anyone have a source for left hand switch gear for an NC35 ? Stupid people burning out the low beam with high watt bulbs + no relay. And stupid me for then dismantling the switch..

Or should I just rig up a new switch ?
I suspect you'll find that many Hondas have the same (or a very similar) switch block. If I were you, I'd take it off, and go into a wrecker and compare it with the ones they have.

[motorbyclist]

Anyone have a source for left hand switch gear for an NC35 ? Stupid people burning out the low beam with high watt bulbs + no relay. And stupid me for then dismantling the switch..

Or should I just rig up a new switch ?

I had the same problem - the proper wattage bulbs are enough to melt the low beam half of the switch, while the high beam has a relay. I ended up using a relay to turn on the low beams whenever the high beams were off.

Then upon reassembling the switch, the now brittle (heat damaged) plastic broke and i needed a new switch anyway:mad:

But as it turns out, most hondas used the same switchblock for about a decade; I ended up replacing the damaged half of the switch (the white part) with that from a cbr250

[jono035]

I had the same problem - the proper wattage bulbs are enough to melt the low beam half of the switch, while the high beam has a relay. I ended up using a relay to turn on the low beams whenever the high beams were off.

Then upon reassembling the switch, the now brittle (heat damaged) plastic broke and i needed a new switch anyway:mad:

But as it turns out, most hondas used the same switchblock for about a decade; I ended up replacing the damaged half of the switch (the white part) with that from a cbr250

I'll have to remember that, the switch on mine was a little iffy at first, took a fair bit of tlc to get the contacts to work reliably again.

[motorbyclist]

i might add that i had some wires that had worn through the insulation near the bulb plugs, but even after that was taped up it was pulling near 7 amps :shit:

[jono035]

i might add that i had some wires that had worn through the insulation near the bulb plugs, but even after that was taped up it was pulling near 7 amps :shit:

Yeah, they're the same ratings on the bulb as a standard H4, or 40W for the dipped beams, so 80W for 2 of em and that's your 7A... You can't do dick all at 12V without it sucking back the amps.

Makes it a real fire hazard actually, pretty soon they're going to have to seriously think about bumping cars up to higher voltage just to cut down on the amount of copper present in them. That's ignoring battery voltages too.

[Jonno.]

Anyone know where I can get a [well priced] set of fairing bolts (NC30)?

[gatch]

Anyone know where I can get a [well priced] set of fairing bolts (NC30)?

I'm using all stainless cap screws for fairings..

Also, does anyone have a right hand mirror for an nc30 that they'd part with ? The road removed mine..

[PirateJafa]

Also, does anyone have a right hand mirror for an nc30 that they'd part with ? The road removed mine..

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/48618-VFR-owners-thread.-For-VFRPS-members-and-prospective-members.?p=1129822232#post1129822232

[motorbyclist]

anyone in auckland keen to share shipping on a bulk order of 400 service bits? my 45k service is coming up shortly

http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/parts/part_22860/

right now that's NZ$130 + shipping for both air filter and oil filter, four plugs and even the sump washer


Anyone know where I can get a [well priced] set of fairing bolts (NC30)?

yes, I have one or two genuine fairing bolts, and a spare set of windscreen bolts (stainless button head socket screws + washers/nuts)

[Jonno.]

I'm down dude.

I need:
Brake lever (http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/VFR400-NC30-%28JAPANESE%29/part_22794/)
Gear lever (http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/VFR400-NC30-%28JAPANESE%29/part_22816/)
Service kit (http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/VFR400-NC30-%28JAPANESE%29/part_22860/)
4 Exhaust gaskets (http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/VFR400-NC30-%28JAPANESE%29/part_31331/)

What's the limit before import tax is added?

Anyone have recomendations for front pads? Don't want to spend too much but obviously don't want horrible pads.

[Harvd]

anyone in auckland keen to share shipping on a bulk order of 400 service bits? my 45k service is coming up shortly

http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/parts/part_22860/

right now that's NZ$130 + shipping for both air filter and oil filter, four plugs and even the sump washer



yes, I have one or two genuine fairing bolts, and a spare set of windscreen bolts (stainless button head socket screws + washers/nuts)

Motherfucker! i just spent $166 on the 4 spark plugs. with 5% off :stupid: grrr i hate nz prices. Mind you i needed them right then so i guess there was a positive. I wish i had some more money to also buy things with you guys.

[motorbyclist]

I'm down dude.

I need:
Brake lever (http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/VFR400-NC30-%28JAPANESE%29/part_22794/)
Gear lever (http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/VFR400-NC30-%28JAPANESE%29/part_22816/)
Service kit (http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/VFR400-NC30-%28JAPANESE%29/part_22860/)
4 Exhaust gaskets (http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/VFR400-NC30-%28JAPANESE%29/part_31331/)

What's the limit before import tax is added?

Anyone have recomendations for front pads? Don't want to spend too much but obviously don't want horrible pads.

$400 NZD including shipping I'm told, and big boxes might grab their attention regardless

I'm thinking I'll be hitting 45k in about 3 weeks, but may not be able to do the service until after the 21 september

[jono035]

$400 NZD including shipping I'm told, and big boxes might grab their attention regardless

I'm thinking I'll be hitting 45k in about 3 weeks, but may not be able to do the service until after the 21 september

Yep, $400 incl. shipping. They sometimes get pinged lower than that and sometimes slip through higher than that. Anything that 'looks' expensive, such as a big box, is more likely to get stopped. Also anything shipped with a company name on it seems more likely to get stopped, too.

Best just to budget for the extra 12.5% on the purchase price and be done with it.

[Aryaeil]

Assuming this is the right place for unbiased info on the VFR :P Looking at an ex-rental 2000 VFR with 115,000km. I realise they are high mileage bikes. Asking price of $6000. Too much? Other option is a Suzuki RF900 for the same money and 50,000km. Any concerns, apart from negligible resale value? I'm informed that 115,000km is around 250,00 in car terms.

Cheers :)

[Jonno.]

$400 NZD including shipping I'm told, and big boxes might grab their attention regardless

I'm thinking I'll be hitting 45k in about 3 weeks, but may not be able to do the service until after the 21 september

lol I got a quote and combining saves a whoping 3 pounds. So not really worth the effort.

[motorbyclist]

lol I got a quote and combining saves a whoping 3 pounds. So not really worth the effort.

sweet - hit 44444.4km today!

[Swoop]

...an ex-rental 2000 VFR with 115,000km. Asking price of $6000.
Sounds a little bit steep to me.

[Scuba_Steve]

:wavey: Hello people. I'm the proud new owner of a "very old" VFR:scooter:. So I just thought this being "THE place":cool: for VFR owners I'd stop by & say hello

For those interested, Its a 1986 VFR700F

[Swoop]

:wavey: Hello people. I'm the proud new owner of a "very old" VFR:scooter:. So I just thought this being "THE place":cool: for VFR owners I'd stop by & say hello

For those interested, Its a 1986 VFR700F
Nice old girl! What colour scheme is she in?
How's the regulator/rectifier? They can be a hassle.

[Scuba_Steve]

Nice old girl! What colour scheme is she in?
How's the regulator/rectifier? They can be a hassle.

spray paint black (at da mo)... This will probably be getting replaced with a smooth even gloss black.
the reg/rectifier seems ok, haven't noticed any probs with it

[Swoop]

spray paint black (at da mo)... This will probably be getting replaced with a smooth even gloss black.
the reg/rectifier seems ok, haven't noticed any probs with it
Ahhhhh, basic black! There seemed to be quite a few of the tricolor RWB imported back then. I was certainly drooling over them in '86.

If the reg/rec goes, it goes quickly... (said from experience...)

[jono035]

If the reg/rec has fins on it, it's probably an aftermarket replacement. If it doesn't, getting some black aluminium heatsink and epoxying it to the side of the reg/rec could be a bloody good idea, they get stinking hot which is why they go south...

Of course, if yours is still going after 24 years then it's probably tough as nails, anyway!

[Jonno.]

Just got my single sided rear and universal front stand from Houseofcustom on trademe :sunny:

Recomended.

[jono035]

Just got my single sided rear and universal front stand from Houseofcustom on trademe :sunny:

Recomended.

Nice, got my stands from there too... Not the most robust models but perfectly good for the most part...

Just bear in mind the front stand is virtually impossible to use on the VFR for some reason. Easy way to drop the bike on its side. If I'm just doing it wrong, someone please tell me :P

[Jonno.]

I got my vfr up on both by myself without dropping it?
I did back stand first then front without an issue.

Anyway here's overpriced nc30 of the week :shutup:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/honda-vfr-400-/230511787945?pt=AU_Motorcycles

[Scuba_Steve]

If the reg/rec has fins on it, it's probably an aftermarket replacement. If it doesn't, getting some black aluminium heatsink and epoxying it to the side of the reg/rec could be a bloody good idea, they get stinking hot which is why they go south...

Of course, if yours is still going after 24 years then it's probably tough as nails, anyway!

Sweet I'll check that out, but like you said at that age its either died & been replaced or its not going to let itself be killed. After all she's done 97000 miles

[jono035]

I got my vfr up on both by myself without dropping it?
I did back stand first then front without an issue.

What are you lifting it on at the front? I couldn't get the bike stable on the stands at the front, even with the rear up. The stand would just splay apart...

[Jonno.]

http://i35.tinypic.com/2v1468j.jpg

I'm lifting it on painted concrete.

[jono035]

http://i35.tinypic.com/2v1468j.jpg

I'm lifting it on painted concrete.

Interesting, I don't think I got that fitting with mine...

Edit: Never mind, mine are the AIO ones that are interchangeable for front/rear. That one looks way more solid.

[gatch]

Anyway here's overpriced nc30 of the week :shutup:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/honda-vfr-400-/230511787945?pt=AU_Motorcycles

Apparently a HRC ignition and a full Tyga Ti exhaust is good for 235kph from an NC30..

HA

[zeocen]

I'm in the market for a suitable aftermarket exhaust for my 06 VFR800, or someone to do a partial gut on the current one (I lack the knowhow/balls to do it).

:love:

[Swoop]

I'm in the market for a suitable aftermarket exhaust for my 06 VFR800, or someone to do a partial gut on the current one (I lack the knowhow/balls to do it).

:love:
Get Warren from Virgin Mufflers to do it. He has done a few now.
KB handle is "blade1000".

[del-solider]

anyone in auckland keen to share shipping on a bulk order of 400 service bits? my 45k service is coming up shortly

http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/parts/part_22860/

right now that's NZ$130 + shipping for both air filter and oil filter, four plugs and even the sump washer


Hey when you planning on ordering the parts in? Hopefully im not too late :shutup:

[HenryDorsetCase]

Hey when you planning on ordering the parts in? Hopefully im not too late :shutup:

Fuck me, I paid $160 for four spark plugs from the local. Only because I needed them that day.

[Jonno.]

I ordered a set of NGK from ebay 5 days ago: arrived today at $90NZD shipped :shifty:

Went to Honda yesterday to see how much a thermostat would be. $150 compared to 30GBP online :sick:

[motorbyclist]

Apparently a HRC ignition and a full Tyga Ti exhaust is good for 235kph from an NC30..

HA

well remove the speed limiter and top speed is around 230 before it tops out

then the HRC box gives you an extra 1000 revs to play with so i'd say 245 is possible, if only barely.

the 65hp he advertises is pretty questionable without a dyno to prove it - same goes for the bike shows seeing as there's no pics.

he must have missed the part about vehicle mods being worth considerably less what you buy them for in terms of vehicle resale - we could get a lower k's vfr and do all those mods for less than that! Unless he finds an american buyer with more money than sense he'll be lucky to get even 9 grand for it.

considering he has supply with (evidently) zero demand, he might get 8 grand, possibly 7

[motorbyclist]

Hey when you planning on ordering the parts in? Hopefully im not too late :shutup:

Havn't done it yet, but might be getting other bits for another bike now so dunno if it'll save on shipping at all


I ordered a set of NGK from ebay 5 days ago: arrived today at $90NZD shipped :shifty:

Went to Honda yesterday to see how much a thermostat would be. $150 compared to 30GBP online :sick:

one day bike shops will realise they are competing on an international market - heck they might even try offering a degree of professionalism and try to work on customer service and building a positive reputation!

It would be an end of "three weeks from japan", "no you can't just get it fixed for $30/no you can't try that one on the shelf there, you need to order this clutch cable for $150", "nope, nothing wrong with the bike we sold you, it's your *insert pathetic excuse here*", "that will be $70 an hour for 2.5 hours to change your chain" and my favourite - standing watching in horror as some monkey uses an angle grinder to cut through my chain, showering all my spotless chrome rim with molten iron sparks and spending 45minutes all up to fit a new chain and then put the chain guard back on incorrectly. I went there because I needed it done quickly without being bodged!

sounds like a good Tui billboard to me :laugh:

In the meantime I'll stick to the self employed mechanics and continue doing work myself

[Jonno.]

http://www.400greybike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=19762

Drool. 90hp NC30.

[Jonno.]

Where can I get infils that don't cost the earth :weep:

[Jonno.]

I'm selling NC30 and RVF spark plugs (NGK ER9EH), $110 a set including shipping NZ wide (next working day).

Retail for $160/set at the dealers.

See link in my sig. If you're in AUSMC and need a set pm me :msn-wink:

[gatch]

http://www.400greybike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=19762

Drool. 90hp NC30.

That would certainly give a few 600s a straight line scare..

[HenryDorsetCase]

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=322081423

VFR400 NC30 parts/donor bike.

[gatch]

Bump.

Bumpity bump bump.

[gatch]

Having done about 500km on some new gpra12h, I got to say these tires are the shit.

New sbs sintered pads in the front, new brake fluid and a bleed and its all good up front.

Only thing is now I can feel how inadequate the forks and shock are.

Something else to remedy.. :scooter:

[HenryDorsetCase]

Having done about 500km on some new gpra12h, I got to say these tires are the shit.

New sbs sintered pads in the front, new brake fluid and a bleed and its all good up front.

Only thing is now I can feel how inadequate the forks and shock are.

Something else to remedy.. :scooter:

bring money.

merry crimble one and all

[Renko]

Hi All
anyone replaced the front disks on their NC30? I want to replace the ones on mine and there seem to be two options on ebay and around the web. There are the cheap ones probably ex China for around $140, or there are ones at least twice the price made in the US or Europe.

Anyone had experience of either? If the Chinese ones are passable I will probably go for those, bot someones experience would help....

Ta

[HenryDorsetCase]

NC30 rearsets for $206AUD from Tyga


http://tyga-performance.com/site/product_info.php?cPath=71_24_507&products_id=51


Thats good value. Not sure if it qualifies for their free shipping propmotion or not.

I havent had to replace my discs sorry.

Though I am rebuilding the fucking front calipers and changing the fluid. Horrible job.

[Prof - R]

i would like to find out if anyone got an engine for parts need two pieces out of the engine

thanks

[gatch]

NC30 rearsets for $206AUD from Tyga


http://tyga-performance.com/site/product_info.php?cPath=71_24_507&products_id=51


Thats good value. Not sure if it qualifies for their free shipping propmotion or not.

I havent had to replace my discs sorry.

Though I am rebuilding the fucking front calipers and changing the fluid. Horrible job.

How so ?

10 char

[gatch]

i would like to find out if anyone got an engine for parts need two pieces out of the engine

thanks

Look up "rachprice" on this site, she had a wrecked motor, not sure if she still has it..

[HenryDorsetCase]

i would like to find out if anyone got an engine for parts need two pieces out of the engine

thanks
Yes.

PM me

[HenryDorsetCase]

How so ?

10 char

I have this phobia about dealing with brake fluid. I hate the stuff. The job is straightforward enough, I have the tools* and parts I need, I just hate doing it. I also hate bleeding brakes. I am thinking about one of those "inject from the bottom" kits, though its hard to justify when I would hardly ever use it.

*except a compressor to blow the pistons out of the calipers. Interesting, pumping them up on the bench and only two of four pistons moved in each caliper. lot of crud in there. the pistons out are in good condition though, so its just clean, grease and rebuild. I do have some rebuild kits coming from David Silver for next time.

[koba]

I have this phobia about dealing with brake fluid. I hate the stuff. The job is straightforward enough, I have the tools* and parts I need, I just hate doing it. I also hate bleeding brakes. I am thinking about one of those "inject from the bottom" kits, though its hard to justify when I would hardly ever use it.

*except a compressor to blow the pistons out of the calipers. Interesting, pumping them up on the bench and only two of four pistons moved in each caliper. lot of crud in there. the pistons out are in good condition though, so its just clean, grease and rebuild. I do have some rebuild kits coming from David Silver for next time.

I find it a pleasure doing such jobs on old Hondas when compared to other brands.
It begins to show who cheaps out on platings and finish...

[gatch]

I find it a pleasure doing such jobs on old Hondas when compared to other brands.
It begins to show who cheaps out on platings and finish...

Whats with the fibinachi ?

I went for a gas last night, sintered SBS pads and GPRA12H tires are the shit !

[koba]

Seemed really interesting after a few beers.
I can recommend "Stoke Amber", great beer.

Hmm, I love having new tyres. Perhaps one day I should set my vfr up on radials with better suspension.... one day..!

[gatch]

Seemed really interesting after a few beers.
I can recommend "Stoke Amber", great beer.

Hmm, I love having new tyres. Perhaps one day I should set my vfr up on radials with better suspension.... one day..!

I would LOVE to do some proper suspension work on mine. THough I'd want top shelf stuff.. $$$$$$$ x a million.

[HenryDorsetCase]

I would LOVE to do some proper suspension work on mine. THough I'd want top shelf stuff.. $$$$$$$ x a million.

Ohlins shock say 1800, fork rebuild say a grand. totally worth the money

[koba]

I would LOVE to do some proper suspension work on mine. THough I'd want top shelf stuff.. $$$$$$$ x a million.

Did You see the one the guy from Japan was on at Wangas?
It was a real work of art, they had grafted a modern CBR600 front end on to it.

[gatch]

Ohlins shock say 1800, fork rebuild say a grand. totally worth the money

About $2700 more than I have..

Everything needs harder springs, stiffer damping in both directions. Rear ride height needs elevating. May as well just get some Ohlins forks. I'm guessing 4k ? LOL


Did You see the one the guy from Japan was on at Wangas?
It was a real work of art, they had grafted a modern CBR600 front end on to it.

No I didn't, sounds like a good idea though. Cartridge forks FTW. Did they put the vfr front wheel in ? I like the wheels..

[ecko_nzed]

Ohlins shock say 1800, fork rebuild say a grand. totally worth the money

I've had CKT rebuild the forks on my RVF, cost $1000 :gob: , but amazing difference:2thumbsup, I'm braking later for corners and holding alot more corner speed. Front tyre works alot better now too. Well worth the money. Robert Taylor is great to deal with as well.

[gatch]

I've had CKT rebuild the forks on my RVF, cost $1000 :gob: , but amazing difference:2thumbsup, I'm braking later for corners and holding alot more corner speed. Front tyre works alot better now too. Well worth the money. Robert Taylor is great to deal with as well.

He gave us some advice on tuning the forks on our 57 dominator too. Clever clever dude.

Did you pull the forks and send them to ckt or take in the whole bike ?

[ecko_nzed]

Did you pull the forks and send them to ckt or take in the whole bike ?
Just sent him the forks, one of them had blown a seal due to the spring being installed upside down by someone else and scraping around in the leg causing metal filings to be everywhere. He turned it around in about 3 days.

It is a bit of money and people wonder why I would spend so much on such an old bike, but I still think they are a great bike and it was one of the performance mods I could do. I'm saving up to have the rear done as well, cos the current one is poked.

[gatch]

Just sent him the forks, one of them had blown a seal due to the spring being installed upside down by someone else and scraping around in the leg causing metal filings to be everywhere. He turned it around in about 3 days.

It is a bit of money and people wonder why I would spend so much on such an old bike, but I still think they are a great bike and it was one of the performance mods I could do. I'm saving up to have the rear done as well, cos the current one is poked.

I know the feeling, if I hit a decent dip or bump mid turn the shock bottoms sometimes..

[jono035]

Yeah, mine is getting well past it in the rear, there's a squeek from one of the links each time I hit a bump too that is starting to worry me.

Thought I'd just quickly do the rear brake pads today. Quickly remembered why I hadn't done them yet...

The retaining pin plug was seized in solid, so had to take the whole caliper off which meant that I also had to fix the completely rounded off bleed screw (all done before my time)...

Ended up with an impact driver on the plug. Had a replacement bleed screw so filed flats onto it, carefully dosed the thing in WD40 for a while and then stuck the entire caliper onto a hot-plate before clamping the bleed screw in the vice and turning the caliper around it. Worked a treat but took some doing...

Bled out all the old brake fluid and replaced with new, pretty grim job on your own. Lots of gunk, really milky brown sludgey fluid. New seals etc. for rear caliper and master cylinder added to the list of bits to get along with the front master cylinder seals. Bleargh.

[HenryDorsetCase]

my least favourite job. Ive got two front caliper rebuild kits on the way from David Silver: they were 20 quid each (say $30NZ) But they have them. I couldnt be arsed even asking the Honda shop: you want what? for a what? what is that, a dirt bike? its how old? mate, you're dreeeeeeemin'

[del-solider]

my least favourite job. Ive got two front caliper rebuild kits on the way from David Silver: they were 20 quid each (say $30NZ) But they have them. I couldnt be arsed even asking the Honda shop: you want what? for a what? what is that, a dirt bike? its how old? mate, you're dreeeeeeemin'

Couldn't agree with you more! I've given up on our Honda dealers too.
"You need what for a what!?! NC35 theres no such thing you must be thinking of NC30" Blah Blah Blah

Bloody useless

[Warr]

Couldn't agree with you more! I've given up on our Honda dealers too.
"You need what for a what!?! NC35 theres no such thing you must be thinking of NC30" Blah Blah Blah

Bloody useless
Malcolm at EconoHonda (http://www.econohonda.co.nz/) in TeAroha can be you friend.
He has heaps of Honda parts and can easily source from offshore too.

[koba]

About $2700 more than I have..

Everything needs harder springs, stiffer damping in both directions. Rear ride height needs elevating. May as well just get some Ohlins forks. I'm guessing 4k ? LOL



No I didn't, sounds like a good idea though. Cartridge forks FTW. Did they put the vfr front wheel in ? I like the wheels..

From my terrible memory and the quick glance I had It was the CBR wheel.

Makes sense too as all the brakes would be great and work without pissing around and the whole lot is probably way lighter.

You are right about VFR wheels, they do look good.


Malcolm at EconoHonda (http://www.econohonda.co.nz/) in TeAroha can be you friend.
He has heaps of Honda parts and can easily source from offshore too.

I've had nothing but good from him.

[ecko_nzed]

Couldn't agree with you more! I've given up on our Honda dealers too.
"You need what for a what!?! NC35 theres no such thing you must be thinking of NC30" Blah Blah Blah

Bloody useless

I usually use either Motomart in Lower Hutt, or Dave Silver Spares. I typically look up the part number I need first though and give them the part number I'm after.

[ecko_nzed]

my least favourite job. Ive got two front caliper rebuild kits on the way from David Silver: they were 20 quid each (say $30NZ) But they have them. I couldnt be arsed even asking the Honda shop: you want what? for a what? what is that, a dirt bike? its how old? mate, you're dreeeeeeemin'

That's next on the list for me if the master cylinder kit and new lines don't fix the brakes on the RVF. Had a few "Oh Shit" moments, at a track day on the weekend, when the lever came all the way to the bar.

[del-solider]

I usually use either Motomart in Lower Hutt, or Dave Silver Spares. I typically look up the part number I need first though and give them the part number I'm after.

Yer thats what i do now easier just to tell them the part number than for them to try and find it. But yer 90% of the time i get my stuff from Dave silver Spare or from other places overseas waaaaay cheaper!

[vifferman]

But yer 90% of the time i get my stuff from Dave silver Spare or from other places overseas waaaaay cheaper!
It's not just the 'waaaaay cheaper' bit - it's also waaaay quicker. Did I tell you about the 7 months I waited for some cush rubbers ($85 paid up front)? Finally got some in a few days from Mrka for $29.
And why the fark don't they have common parts -ANY common parts? Farkin' Blue Wing. :angry2: When I had the FahrtSturm, they had no brake cylinder seals in stock. WTF?!?!
Come to that, I can't remember when I last bought any Honda part from an UnZud dealer without a sizeable wait. The nearest I've come was when I had the forks overhauled, and Botany Honda had most of the seals, bushes etc in stock - there was only a couple of parts they had to order, and it didn't take too long at all. Pity they're so far from here....
Or mebbe not. If they were closer, I'd go and visit and be tempted to replace the VifFerraRi....

[gatch]

my least favourite job. Ive got two front caliper rebuild kits on the way from David Silver: they were 20 quid each (say $30NZ) But they have them. I couldnt be arsed even asking the Honda shop: you want what? for a what? what is that, a dirt bike? its how old? mate, you're dreeeeeeemin'

LOL

All you get is a blank stare and a shoulder shrug. Then when you leave they go out back to their buddies and go "this dickhead just came in asking for parts for a eMZee300, ZOMFG ROFLMAO" etc etc.

Some real mouth breathers out there man.

[ecko_nzed]

does anyone know where i can get a peg spanner or socket to loosen the clutch nut on an RVF 400? :scratch:
It's the same as a VFR 400 and many others I'm sure.

[HenryDorsetCase]

does anyone know where i can get a peg spanner or socket to loosen the clutch nut on an RVF 400? :scratch:
It's the same as a VFR 400 and many others I'm sure.

I had a go at making one out of a 22mm socket. Dremel and a bit of faffing about.

After that failed miserably I purchased the Honda one at GREAT EXPENSE.

[koba]

does anyone know where i can get a peg spanner or socket to loosen the clutch nut on an RVF 400? :scratch:
It's the same as a VFR 400 and many others I'm sure.

How is it different from an normal socket?

[PirateJafa]

does anyone know where i can get a peg spanner or socket to loosen the clutch nut on an RVF 400? :scratch:
It's the same as a VFR 400 and many others I'm sure.

http://tyga-performance.com/site/product_info.php?cPath=72_84_161&products_id=506

Hopefully by "great expense", HenryDorsetHeadcase means that he bought one for 8.24 USD.

[koba]

Chain or clutch???

[PirateJafa]

Chain or clutch???

Ah, ignore, I'm just going insaner than usual.

[koba]

Ah, ignore, I'm just going insaner than usual.

I sympathise.

[HenryDorsetCase]

From memory it was $170 or something. I said to the guys "get me this tool" which they did. Stupid me forgot to ask how much first.

I also bought one of those peg spanners but mine came from ebay. And its worth buying the genuine honda sparkplug removal tool because the plugs are such a pig to get at

[jono035]

Hmmmm, I made myself a socket to fit the castle nuts on the VFR by buying a cheap one from repco of the appropriate size, marking out where I wanted to keep and then using a hacksaw + safe edge file to cut down the recesses.

Worked perfectly, took about half an hour though.

[HenryDorsetCase]

http://tyga-performance.com/site/product_info.php?products_id=935

is the castle nut tool. they're out of stock.

the honda one is the same, but double ended.

heres a pic, and the bag shows the part number.

[koba]

http://tyga-performance.com/site/product_info.php?products_id=935

is the castle nut tool. they're out of stock.

the honda one is the same, but double ended.

heres a pic, and the bag shows the part number.

Those?
I used an old screwdriver and hammer on the NSR frame I have, no worries, just had to be a bit careful.
I'd get a bit worried about the potential of fuckup so made a tool. I've never really used it and just used the screwdriver...

has any of this got anything to do with a clutch?

[koba]

Hmmmm, I made myself a socket to fit the castle nuts on the VFR by buying a cheap one from repco of the appropriate size, marking out where I wanted to keep and then using a hacksaw + safe edge file to cut down the recesses.

Worked perfectly, took about half an hour though.

Good Man! so many people shy away from common sense these days...

[ecko_nzed]

http://tyga-performance.com/site/product_info.php?products_id=935

is the castle nut tool. they're out of stock.

the honda one is the same, but double ended.

heres a pic, and the bag shows the part number.

Cheers for that, DSS have one for about $70 plus freight.

The Haynes manual says you should disgard the nut and use a new one, seems a bit over the top, opinions?

[HenryDorsetCase]

Good Man! so many people shy away from common sense these days...

I tried that first, but failed utterly. My metalworking skills not so good, but my skill with a credit card is legendary

[HenryDorsetCase]

Cheers for that, DSS have one for about $70 plus freight.

The Haynes manual says you should disgard the nut and use a new one, seems a bit over the top, opinions?

I'd probably re-use it. I re-used mine. If you're getting the tool in, add the nut as well. It will be cheap enough.

[motorbyclist]

Those?
I used an old screwdriver and hammer on the NSR frame I have, no worries, just had to be a bit careful.


do everyone a favour and get a small aluminium pipe (like 5~6mm OD) and crush the end flat so it fits on the bike. Screw drivers tend to ruin the part on the bike

[gatch]

Cool beans.

Last friday I ordered a new reg/rec for the nc30 from "electrex world". $161 to my door step and only a 4 working day wait. It came from England..

Went to install the new one to find that since I had last checked, 2 of the 3 yellow terminals had fully melted and the battery isn't charging at all..

Wired up the new plug, had to put a few washers under the new rectifier, as it is larger than the oem one and doesn't sit flat in the original position.

New reg/rec has much more heat sink surface area due to longer and deeper fins.

Will check voltage when I get my hands on a multi meter again.

Internet orders FTW.

[broken]

Cool beans.

Last friday I ordered a new reg/rec for the nc30 from "electrex world". $130 to my door step and only a 4 working day wait. It came from England..

Went to install the new one to find that since I had last checked, 2 of the 3 yellow terminals had fully melted and the battery isn't charging at all..

Wired up the new plug, had to put a few washers under the new rectifier, as it is larger than the oem one and doesn't sit flat in the original position.

New reg/rec has much more heat sink surface area due to longer and deeper fins.

Will check voltage when I get my hands on a multi meter again.

Internet orders FTW.

Ive had the same problem as you with the reg/Rec but mine being a NC35. I decided to get the r6 one in the end as ive seen good things on 400greybike. Ordered it off ebay here in 5 days and all for $80(best price offer FTW!!).

Mine too was fully burnt in all 3 yellows wires, it took alot of work just to sperate the plug!
Im glad its all done went for a ride straight after i fixed it, been 5 months since last on the bike and man do i LOVE those V4's!!!!!!! :msn-wink:

[del-solider]

Ive had the same problem as you with the reg/Rec but mine being a NC35. I decided to get the r6 one in the end as ive seen good things on 400greybike. Ordered it off ebay here in 5 days and all for $80(best price offer FTW!!).

Mine too was fully burnt in all 3 yellows wires, it took alot of work just to sperate the plug!
Im glad its all done went for a ride straight after i fixed it, been 5 months since last on the bike and man do i LOVE those V4's!!!!!!! :msn-wink:

Woah logged in on friends account lol

[ecko_nzed]

Woah logged in on friends account lol

so size wise is the R6 one a exact fit, after mine melted down I got an aftermarket one off trademe, but it was narrower than the original so didn't fit over both lugs.

had the same problem with the plug though, t'was absolutely stuffed, very painstaking to cut it away from the terminals, of which I ended up replacing the 3 smaller ones as they had gone soft from the heat. I take it you can't get replacement plugs?

[zeocen]

Has anyone changed sprockets on a VFR800i before?

After ~6 months with it I've definitely gelled with this awesome bike and decided I'd like a little more down low power - I don't have a problem with losing top end. Cruising in 6th gear at 100 - 110 hangs around 4.5 - 5k RPM and wide open throttle is less than satisfactory! I absolutely am in love with this bike but I would also love some more power down low.

Are sprocket changes a good idea for the Viffer? I'm assuming a speedohealer will be essential also.

Got some Leo Vince cans coming also - it's all coming together nicely :D

[vifferman]

Has anyone changed sprockets on a VFR800i before?
Ah... yup. :yes:
In fact, I've run lowered gearing on my last three bikes: one tooth smaller on the front of the '90 VFR750, '98 VTR1000, and on the '01 VFR800. The FahrtSturm was the worst - at 100 km/h in 6th, it was turning over at a lowly 2600 rpm. Given the torque wasn't really there till 3k, it was shit to ride on the open road. I suspect the previous owner was trying to make it less thirsty.
At the last change of chain'n'sprockets, I went back to stock gearing on the VFR. Prior to that, I was running a 16T front sprocket (6% lower gearing) as most of my riding was communtering. I bought a speedo converter kit from Jaycar and hooked that up to read 12% lower (bike speedo was already 6% optimistic), then after checking with a GPS, realised my maths was wrong, and changed it to 10%. If you're OK with a soldering iron and can read instructions, the kit is very good value. Once it's together, you just cut the pink wire to the instruments, and loop it through the corrector's input circuit, with a ground to one of the green wires in the wiring loom or an earth on the frame.
I went back to stock after 3 or 4 years because although I liked the extra punch taking off from standstill, I found on the highway I was looking for 6th when I was already in it. Plus running a smaller front sprocket means slightly more chain wear. A better (but more expensive) option is 2 or 3 extra teeth on the rear; 3 on the back is about the same as 1 down on the front.

[zeocen]

Would a PCIII be of any significance for better/linear down low torque?

I've come from bikes that were all low - mid power rather than mid - high like what I feel the VFR is, so it's always left me wanting more in the low range, especially wanting to overtake in 6th at around 100kmh. It's like pushing a whale up Mt Everest.

[sil3nt]

So im keen on an NC30. What should i look for when buying it? I hear the rectifier goes on these. Have had a look at one that looked alright just not sure what i should be looking for.

[vifferman]

Would a PCIII be of any significance for better/linear down low torque?
Hmmmmmm.....
At best (i.e., using a map made in conjunction with a dyno), all it will do is slightly reduce some of the designed-in dip in the torque curve (put there for emissions testing). As far as I know, the only thing that would give you significantly more torque (and a healthy dollop of HP) is the A&A supercharger kit. Got a spare US$5k lying around?

[gatch]

so size wise is the R6 one a exact fit, after mine melted down I got an aftermarket one off trademe, but it was narrower than the original so didn't fit over both lugs.

had the same problem with the plug though, t'was absolutely stuffed, very painstaking to cut it away from the terminals, of which I ended up replacing the 3 smaller ones as they had gone soft from the heat. I take it you can't get replacement plugs?

I don't know anything about the R6 ones, but this is the one I got http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/rr58-regulator-rectifier-779-0.html it cost $161 including shipping to my door. It fits the standard plug, they also supply a new plug and all the appropriate terminals to wire it up. If you just wanted a new plug you could probably email them and ask about it ?


So im keen on an NC30. What should i look for when buying it? I hear the rectifier goes on these. Have had a look at one that looked alright just not sure what i should be looking for.

Yes the reg/rec goes on them as it doesn't get a lot of ventilation and is a tiny unit to start with. Also my fuel tap has started leaking, though it's not surprising considering it's 20yrs old. Don't be alarmed from the "whining" noise coming from the heads, the cams are gear driven.. All the usual stuff you would check when buying an old bike, service history (important), if you can get the swing arm/rear wheel bearings checked for play, keep in mind the rear wheel is an 18".

Otherwise, enjoy, I love mine..

[del-solider]

so size wise is the R6 one a exact fit, after mine melted down I got an aftermarket one off trademe, but it was narrower than the original so didn't fit over both lugs.

had the same problem with the plug though, t'was absolutely stuffed, very painstaking to cut it away from the terminals, of which I ended up replacing the 3 smaller ones as they had gone soft from the heat. I take it you can't get replacement plugs?

Size wise the R6 unit is a tad bigger and doesnt fit on the standard lugs. i just drilled them out and put new bolts in and works fine. for the price you can get them for on ebay they cant be beaten really, most of the guys in the UK use r6 as the much better than the standard ones(which as we all know are Crap!)

[koba]

Would a PCIII be of any significance for better/linear down low torque?

I've come from bikes that were all low - mid power rather than mid - high like what I feel the VFR is, so it's always left me wanting more in the low range, especially wanting to overtake in 6th at around 100kmh. It's like pushing a whale up Mt Everest.

Try the gearbox, it comes free with the bike.

[sil3nt]

Yes the reg/rec goes on them as it doesn't get a lot of ventilation and is a tiny unit to start with. Also my fuel tap has started leaking, though it's not surprising considering it's 20yrs old. Don't be alarmed from the "whining" noise coming from the heads, the cams are gear driven.. All the usual stuff you would check when buying an old bike, service history (important), if you can get the swing arm/rear wheel bearings checked for play, keep in mind the rear wheel is an 18".

Otherwise, enjoy, I love mine..No service history. He has owned for less than 2 years and has no idea what the guy before has done. I think he mentioned sparkplugs so hopefully they don't need doing again any time soon. Will try and book it in to Hamilton Honda to get it checked over next week.

I don't actually recall the whining from the cams when he started it up. Seems like a rather hard thing to miss as it sounds so obvious on youtube.

Unfortunately there is a shinko on the back :( Better than nothing i suppose though.

Only thing really giving me doubts is the fuel consumption that is up there with my car...What sort of range is everyone getting? He says 200 and thinks its good. I would expect a little more....

[gatch]

No service history. He has owned for less than 2 years and has no idea what the guy before has done. I think he mentioned sparkplugs so hopefully they don't need doing again any time soon. Will try and book it in to Hamilton Honda to get it checked over next week.

I don't actually recall the whining from the cams when he started it up. Seems like a rather hard thing to miss as it sounds so obvious on youtube.

Unfortunately there is a shinko on the back :( Better than nothing i suppose though.

Only thing really giving me doubts is the fuel consumption that is up there with my car...What sort of range is everyone getting? He says 200 and thinks its good. I would expect a little more....

200km on the main tank is good hahaha, I usually get 170-180.. But I tend to give it a bit, too often.. If you are getting more than 15km per liter you're doing alright.

[Gibbo89]

Unfortunately there is a shinko on the back :( Better than nothing i suppose though.


I wouldn't bag a shinko straight off, my mechanic has some type of shinko on his gsxr1000 and says its fine. Obviously the types etc vary but it may not be a bad tyre.

good luck on the search for an nc30. they are sweet looking bikes.

[gatch]

I wouldn't bag a shinko straight off, my mechanic has some type of shinko on his gsxr1000 and says its fine. Obviously the types etc vary but it may not be a bad tyre.

good luck on the search for an nc30. they are sweet looking bikes.

I would be betting the shinko on the vfr would be a smidgen different to the barely road legal race tire on the gsxr.. When I bought my nc30, it had IRCs on it. Totally shit house in any condition other than hot dry roads. If you do buy it and intend to ride it in a sporting manner, you can't go past gpra12h tires. They are the business.

[sil3nt]

200km on the main tank is good hahaha, I usually get 170-180.. But I tend to give it a bit, too often.. If you are getting more than 15km per liter you're doing alright.Well that kinda defeats the purpose of commuting on the bike! Guess thats what my 250 is for haha.

[gatch]

Well that kinda defeats the purpose of commuting on the bike! Guess thats what my 250 is for haha.

Yeeeeah the nc30 isn't meant to be a commuter bike though.. Take it to a track and see what you think of it then.. :msn-wink:

[Gibbo89]

Well that kinda defeats the purpose of commuting on the bike! Guess thats what my 250 is for haha.

I'd commute on one, but your comparing a v4 vs a parallel twin.

There are other options that would get more than 200k's but still be a fun bike. Just maybe not as fun, depending on what you look at.

[sil3nt]

I'd commute on one, but your comparing a v4 vs a parallel twin.

There are other options that would get more than 200k's but still be a fun bike. Just maybe not as fun, depending on what you look at.Its all good i want a sports bike. Can get something more sensible later on. Probably can't afford to run the sports bike though :weird:

[Gibbo89]

Its all good i want a sports bike. Can get something more sensible later on. Probably can't afford to run the sports bike though :weird:

Yeah, the spark plugs aren't cheap... plus other thing my tiny brain doesn't know yet. :weird:

[jono035]

200km is good. 170-180 here too, but then the main tank is really only 10L to reserve...

[sil3nt]

I thought it was 15.

This site (http://www.vsource.org/VFR-RVF_files/Bvfr400r-mi.htm) says 15 with 2 reserve.

200ks from 10 litres i could live with. 200ks from 15 wouldn't stop me buying but would probably limit me to a weekend rider!

Rang Hamilton Honda and booked in a pre purchase inspection. Guy on the phone said half hour job unless i wanted a compression test which would take about 1.5 hours thanks to the V4 engine.

[gatch]

I thought it was 15.

This site (http://www.vsource.org/VFR-RVF_files/Bvfr400r-mi.htm) says 15 with 2 reserve.

200ks from 10 litres i could live with. 200ks from 15 wouldn't stop me buying but would probably limit me to a weekend rider!

Rang Hamilton Honda and booked in a pre purchase inspection. Guy on the phone said half hour job unless i wanted a compression test which would take about 1.5 hours thanks to the V4 engine.

When I hit reserve it takes 12 liters to fill to the top again.. I haven't intentionally tested the range in reserve..

I think that site may be off a little..

[sil3nt]

When I hit reserve it takes 12 liters to fill to the top again.. I haven't intentionally tested the range in reserve..

I think that site may be off a little..Ok little more research says its a 15L tank. People hit between 10 and 12 before reserve.

[sil3nt]

What sort of gas? 91, 95 or 98?

[gatch]

What sort of gas? 91, 95 or 98?

Never had a problem with 91.

Never noticed any improvements with 98.

[gatch]

Ok little more research says its a 15L tank. People hit between 10 and 12 before reserve.

10 ?

Filling it to the top may help them..

[ecko_nzed]

Never had a problem with 91.

Never noticed any improvements with 98.
my RVF runs like a bag of hairy assholes down low on 91, it's still there on 95/98 but not as bad.

[rachprice]

Yeah I notice mine doesnt run as well on 91

[rachprice]

Oh p.s. I have bits of vfr if anyone needs them...pm me with what you want

[jono035]

It may be a difference between UK and Jap spec models... I think most of the ones we have are jap while the most common info I've found online relates to the UK models...

Not a lot of differences, but still... Oil cooler was one, headlights were another, stock jets again.

Edit: I could see how you'd get another litre in the tank, but not another 3-4... 10-12L to reserve sounds right.

[gatch]

Oh p.s. I have bits of vfr if anyone needs them...pm me with what you want

Can I have the fuel tap ? Mine is developing a leak..

[sil3nt]

Most uncomfortable bike ever.





Its mine now.

[motorbyclist]

So im keen on an NC30. What should i look for when buying it? I hear the rectifier goes on these. Have had a look at one that looked alright just not sure what i should be looking for.

look for twisted rear subframes and horrendous home mods. Gutted mufflers are not good for performance. Performance pipes require re-jetting. Many riders seem to be finding warped front discs, also.

These bikes do crash well, but it's the poorly done "improvements" that ultimately ruin them (and curiously also indicate piss-poor maintenance/servicing)


200km on the main tank is good hahaha, I usually get 170-180.. But I tend to give it a bit, too often.. If you are getting more than 15km per liter you're doing alright.

WHAT?!

Any VFR400 doing 15km/L is in dire need of a carb tune/balance; even with big burbly pipe

for the record, my old NC30 got at least 20km/L on 98 and 18km/L on 91 when "sport" communting.

my current NC35 gets 18km/L on either fuel.

On open road/rides I got 250-260 per tank from full to empty, 50-60 of which is reserve. My NC35 hits reserve at 180 like clockwork and runs dry around 50k into reserve.

Tyres are approx $450-$550 for the set depending on who you know, they last anything up from 5000 to 10000km depending on riding/road conditions. Pillions are ok but do a mean job of ruining the rear.



FYI, 98 feels better on most bikes 400cc and under. Finely tuned machines can be a bit more finnicky (my motox bike won't start/idle easily on anything less)

[motorbyclist]

Most uncomfortable bike ever.


Its mine now.

I'm 6 foot and never had problem - just make sure the landing gear still works when you near your destination if you've been on the road for a few hours without stopping ;)

warning: all big "sport" bikes will feel like boats after this

[motorbyclist]

Fix/replace it. the NC35 has a plastic flap to keep heat from the rider/battery, and to keep leaking petrol from the rear headers. The NC30 does not. Turns out the whole thing burns down in less than 30 minutes, too. Even the rocker covers and sections of the chassis melt!

[gatch]

WHAT?!

Any VFR400 doing 15km/L is in dire need of a carb tune/balance; even with big burbly pipe

for the record, my old NC30 got at least 20km/L on 98 and 18km/L on 91 when "sport" communting.

my current NC35 gets 18km/L on either fuel.

On open road/rides I got 250-260 per tank from full to empty, 50-60 of which is reserve. My NC35 hits reserve at 180 like clockwork and runs dry around 50k into reserve.

So you get about 200km on the main tank ? This is only marginally more than what I'm getting. I'm running on 91 and around town. Figures are different when I am in highway mode.


Fix/replace it. the NC35 has a plastic flap to keep heat from the rider/battery, and to keep leaking petrol from the rear headers. The NC30 does not. Turns out the whole thing burns down in less than 30 minutes, too. Even the rocker covers and sections of the chassis melt!

I read about this as well. It has been remedied.

[motorbyclist]

So you get about 200km on the main tank ? This is only marginally more than what I'm getting.

if you are getting 15km/L on a 10L main then that's 150km range before reserve....



I read about this as well.

the remains lived in my garage for a while :laugh:

[sil3nt]

I'm 6 foot and never had problem - just make sure the landing gear still works when you near your destination if you've been on the road for a few hours without stopping ;)

warning: all big "sport" bikes will feel like boats after this
I injured my lower back 2 days before picking the bike up. I could barely walk before i took it out on rides. I could not walk after a couple of hours of riding on Sunday. Back is almost healed up so comfort should be a lot better now....


look for twisted rear subframes and horrendous home mods. Gutted mufflers are not good for performance. Performance pipes require re-jetting. Many riders seem to be finding warped front discs, also.
It has stock mufflers which look brand spankin new but the bike has no fairing damage (other than stone chips around the lights). Discs seem ok just a bit of vibration on (high speed 80kph+) braking which i believe is headstock bearings.

Had to switch to reserve at around 200ks. Got 12 litres in the tank (on the sidestand didn't pick it up) and put 91 in. Will see how long it lasts.

Where should the bike idle once warmed up? It starts ok without choke and idles around 1500 (from memory) and idles closer to 2000 when warmed up which seems a little much.

[HenryDorsetCase]

I injured my lower back 2 days before picking the bike up. I could barely walk before i took it out on rides. I could not walk after a couple of hours of riding on Sunday. Back is almost healed up so comfort should be a lot better now....

It has stock mufflers which look brand spankin new but the bike has no fairing damage (other than stone chips around the lights). Discs seem ok just a bit of vibration on (high speed 80kph+) braking which i believe is headstock bearings.

Had to switch to reserve at around 200ks. Got 12 litres in the tank (on the sidestand didn't pick it up) and put 91 in. Will see how long it lasts.

Where should the bike idle once warmed up? It starts ok without choke and idles around 1500 (from memory) and idles closer to 2000 when warmed up which seems a little much.

have a look at the air filter: they are a bit cold blooded so "should" need the choke. a dirty air filter might richen the mixture a little? but it will also choke it at high speed. Just an idea

Not sure on idle speed but 1500-2000 sounds a bit on the high side?

[sil3nt]

I thought it might be a bit high did adjust it down to around 1500 but it seems happier just above 1500.

Took it in to the mechanics today for the "pre purchase inspection" 3 days after i purchased it :facepalm: :whocares:

Was given the all clear. Good discs, engine seems fine, charging system seems fine. Pads will probably need changing soon although they aren't that bad with 3-4mm left on them.

Front fairing has been repaired and repainted and there is a crack on the left hand side which has some tape on it.
Tried to take some photos. Colour doesn't come out too well. Although the pain is slightly fading it does look more red than the photos suggest.
All those shitty little stickers will be removed at some point...
230574230575230576

[gatch]

if you are getting 15km/L on a 10L main then that's 150km range before reserve....



the remains lived in my garage for a while :laugh:

Maybe the tubes that stick into your tank are different lengths.. The consensus seems to be that there is around 12-13L on the main tank and about 2 in reserve..

When I hit reserve it takes a fraction over 12 liters to fill to the brim again and this is good for 180 odd Km.

So yeah still 15km/L. Maybe I need to check that out.

[gatch]

I thought it might be a bit high did adjust it down to around 1500 but it seems happier just above 1500.

Took it in to the mechanics today for the "pre purchase inspection" 3 days after i purchased it :facepalm: :whocares:

Was given the all clear. Good discs, engine seems fine, charging system seems fine. Pads will probably need changing soon although they aren't that bad with 3-4mm left on them.

Front fairing has been repaired and repainted and there is a crack on the left hand side which has some tape on it.
Tried to take some photos. Colour doesn't come out too well. Although the pain is slightly fading it does look more red than the photos suggest.
All those shitty little stickers will be removed at some point...
230574230575230576

Yes, stickers for the most part are gay. I'm not a fan of vinyl..

I would like to paint all my bike white and powder coat the wheels black. Maybe with something cool painted on the side fairings.

[sil3nt]

I think i figured out this rather fancy camera. I can now get it shoot nicely and adjust the colours in photoshop.
230585


Anyone know what the cost to get the valves checked (or full service) would be? Forgot to ask today.

[gatch]

I think i figured out this rather fancy camera. I can now get it shoot nicely and adjust the colours in photoshop.
230585


Anyone know what the cost to get the valves checked (or full service) would be? Forgot to ask today.

You can check the valves yourself if you have a manual and a spare day/tools.

Adjusting them is a different ball game. It will take a mechanic a few hours at least so it's not gonna be cheap.

[sil3nt]

You can check the valves yourself if you have a manual and a spare day/tools.

Adjusting them is a different ball game. It will take a mechanic a few hours at least so it's not gonna be cheap.There is a sticky on 400greybike about checking the valves. Problem is i don't have the tools.

[gatch]

There is a sticky on 400greybike about checking the valves. Problem is i don't have the tools.

I wouldn't have thought you would need much just to check them. Screw drivers of various size and a socket set ? And feelers gauges..

Can you borrow some gear off a mate ?

[HenryDorsetCase]

welcome to the joys of NC30 ownership. you need small hands, arms with extra joints, and more than just two to do anything. It took me an hour once to get the nut that holds the rear exhaust pipe header on. so fiddly. soo so fiddly

[sil3nt]

I wouldn't have thought you would need much just to check them. Screw drivers of various size and a socket set ? And feelers gauges..

Can you borrow some gear off a mate ?Girlfriends father was a Honda mechanic only a few years ago :facepalm:

[jono035]

Bike starting without choke would be a big warning to me, but I'll try starting mine that way this morning and see what happens.

Idle should be about 1800rpm from the Haynes manual.

Also, in behind the front fairing there is room to mount a Stebel Nautilus airhorn off the headlight bracket. The horn is the only thing I haven't been happy with from stock.

Edit: Oh, if you're mostly going to be driving it around town, dropping a tooth on the front sprocket goes a long way to tame the tall gearing of the bike.