View Full Version : VFR owners' thread, for VFRPS members and prospective members
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gatch
12th January 2012, 17:13
last 18" l bought for my nc24 was $250 12 years ago
I can either use the 18" rear, or get hold of some vfr750 wheels, which will be much cheaper and plentiful then rvf items. There's one on trademe at the mo for $500 !
Only trick is the vfr750 wheels are 4 bolt, so I'll have turn up a new hub to mount it, but that's no trouble. Also it's a 5" wide, so the tires would be 160section, but that just means I'll have to ride it harder :D
crazy man
12th January 2012, 17:33
I can either use the 18" rear, or get hold of some vfr750 wheels, which will be much cheaper and plentiful then rvf items. There's one on trademe at the mo for $500 !
Only trick is the vfr750 wheels are 4 bolt, so I'll have turn up a new hub to mount it, but that's no trouble. Also it's a 5" wide, so the tires would be 160section, but that just means I'll have to ride it harder :Dyou better be out there on sat or sunday to show the bro how to go around the track
gatch
12th January 2012, 18:06
you better be out there on sat or sunday to show the bro how to go around the track
Yeah man. I'll be out for a hoon tomorrow. A mate has just bought an ER650 protwin thing and another mate is bringing his rs125s for both days. My bucket will be there too, hopefully I can take it out in the slow group and give it a tune.
koba
14th January 2012, 23:39
18's aren't much of a problem at all. Its the 16inch front on mine that is a shit to get flash rubber for!
gatch
15th January 2012, 01:17
I got one good dry warm session in today. Did 1.27.
I feel there is more time to gain, particularly through t1 and higgins. I Can't wait to get some forks sorted, then get my shiny new shock in. Then see how it goes. I'll be stoked when I get under 1.20.
crazy man
15th January 2012, 02:48
I got one good dry warm session in today. Did 1.27.
I feel there is more time to gain, particularly through t1 and higgins. I Can't wait to get some forks sorted, then get my shiny new shock in. Then see how it goes. I'll be stoked when I get under 1.20.l went out for a look but did not see ya. funny day rain on and of hope today will be better 1.27 is not a bad start
crazy man
17th January 2012, 18:52
hopyfully try to tune up the nc30 motor keeped losing power after to laps and then misfiring bugger it but the bike handled the best its ever has ! a shame but there is always next time
Madness
18th January 2012, 14:09
Thought I'd give all you Honda Homos (note to Hitcher - no apostrophe) a bit of a heads-up. Bayride in Towel-Wronger have a rather tidy RC30 on display in their showroom, came in today apparently. Feel free to go & jizz all over it.
As you were.
HenryDorsetCase
18th January 2012, 15:32
Thought I'd give all you Honda Homos (note to Hitcher - no apostrophe) a bit of a heads-up. Bayride in Towel-Wronger have a rather tidy RC30 on display in their showroom, came in today apparently. Feel free to go & jizz all over it.
As you were.
is it for sale?
Madness
18th January 2012, 15:34
is it for sale?
Nope - That was the first thing that came to my mind. The tosser salesman I spoke to gave the impression that he'd rather not have it in the shop, seeing as it's a Honda. Fuckwit.
sil3nt
18th January 2012, 15:50
NC30 meet up over there then? :bleh:
koba
18th January 2012, 19:44
I feel there is more time to gain
There is.
Ten charaterers
gatch
18th January 2012, 20:53
There is.
Ten charaterers
Still going much faster than most of those goobers on the much faster bikes. Good fun.
koba
18th January 2012, 20:57
Still going much faster than most of those goobers on the much faster bikes. Good fun.
Haha! Funny shit. I must get along to a trackday sometime...
gatch
18th January 2012, 21:05
Haha! Funny shit. I must get along to a trackday sometime...
I think there is a track day at manfield, the last weekend of this month. I'll be at that one too.
It's gold, ride to the track with tools and spares in pannier bags. Cane it for a bit, then ride past all the dudes with their bikes on trailers on the way home.
koba
18th January 2012, 21:11
I think there is a track day at manfield, the last weekend of this month. I'll be at that one too.
It's gold, ride to the track with tools and spares in pannier bags. Cane it for a bit, then ride past all the dudes with their bikes on trailers on the way home.
I know there is a MotoTT day coming up on a friday, I was going to flag but time off work is a no-go right now.
My VFR is quietly rotting while I wait for the rear shock to fix itself.
Sigh, someday...
gatch
18th January 2012, 21:38
I know there is a MotoTT day coming up on a friday, I was going to flag but time off work is a no-go right now.
My VFR is quietly rotting while I wait for the rear shock to fix itself.
Sigh, someday...
I think this is meant to be a honda day ? Aaron Slight turning up for some guidance. Something like that.
koba
19th January 2012, 06:14
I think this is meant to be a honda day ? Aaron Slight turning up for some guidance. Something like that.
Choice.
Bigger sigh...
motorbyclist
19th January 2012, 22:18
I'll just leave this here.......
http://raresportbikesforsale.com/1994-honda-rvf-rc45-homologation-super-bike-for-sale/
HenryDorsetCase
20th January 2012, 10:16
I'll just leave this here.......
http://raresportbikesforsale.com/1994-honda-rvf-rc45-homologation-super-bike-for-sale/
$25k US, say $40k NZ?
bargain.
also, that is a great site I had not seen before. Thanks!
lukemillar
20th January 2012, 13:44
There was an ex-Freddie Spencer RC30 superbike that cropped up for sale a few months back on that site. That was pretty rare/sweet.
crazy man
20th January 2012, 20:14
whats going on in here green rules
actungbaby
20th January 2012, 21:26
That particular wrecker I feel is a bit of a retard...asked for a cbr600 1991-1998 left handlebar switch and he sent me one from an 04-08, when I contacted him he was like "oh I've got the other one here, honda often switches plugs and wiring between years". Retard. Honda tries to use as many parts again as possible! (as do most manufacturers...gpx250 anyone?)
they do actually well know for changing parts between the years but yes am been less than impressed with bike wreakers here
so go to england insteed spent 600 nz so far i cant be bothered with people here seems like your doing them fav to buy of them
I wanted to buy vtr 250 engine of one all got was oh thats wrong engine and u have to swap the motor which i think is
A w%$k anyway casue why do need hassle sending a engine thats junk anyway and pay 1,200 for privllege no thanks dude
And others i asked for vt 260 engine oh yeah either dont have one say that no we try gte you one some time its like
Oh havent got it, or they say have one and when say am intrested never repl;y back what bunch dicks
actungbaby
20th January 2012, 21:27
I'll just leave this here.......
http://raresportbikesforsale.com/1994-honda-rvf-rc45-homologation-super-bike-for-sale/
mmmmm i like that with some father beans and nice sauce hehe
actungbaby
20th January 2012, 21:34
I know there is a MotoTT day coming up on a friday, I was going to flag but time off work is a no-go right now.
My VFR is quietly rotting while I wait for the rear shock to fix itself.
Sigh, someday...
Well am kinda vfr 750 owner well i feel like one once i get my one running its got front end yanked of and been doing all sorts
bad behaviour with her damm am wicked
I even started her with no water in the rad and she was sweet about it for few mins ran her , since taken the
fairing stay of and speedo rev counter she refuses to start must got the pip
Oh just because got her naked in the shed gezz i must cover her over poor baby
actungbaby
21st January 2012, 09:35
I can either use the 18" rear, or get hold of some vfr750 wheels, which will be much cheaper and plentiful then rvf items. There's one on trademe at the mo for $500 !
Only trick is the vfr750 wheels are 4 bolt, so I'll have turn up a new hub to mount it, but that's no trouble. Also it's a 5" wide, so the tires would be 160section, but that just means I'll have to ride it harder :D
Are you kidding 500 for a rim is it brand new or what talk about rip of if its second hand ?
motorbyclist
21st January 2012, 11:29
they do actually well know for changing parts between the years but yes am been less than impressed with bike wreakers here
so go to england insteed spent 600 nz so far i cant be bothered with people here seems like your doing them fav to buy of them
I wanted to buy vtr 250 engine of one all got was oh thats wrong engine and u have to swap the motor which i think is
A w%$k anyway casue why do need hassle sending a engine thats junk anyway and pay 1,200 for privllege no thanks dude
And others i asked for vt 260 engine oh yeah either dont have one say that no we try gte you one some time its like
Oh havent got it, or they say have one and when say am intrested never repl;y back what bunch dicks
try again with punctuation? I think I agree with you, but I'm not exactly sure what you've said...
HenryDorsetCase
21st January 2012, 11:55
Are you kidding 500 for a rim is it brand new or what talk about rip of if its second hand ?
$500 for a good condition second hand RVF400 rear rim is pretty much the price. Its all supply and demand, baby.
HenryDorsetCase
21st January 2012, 11:58
mmmmm i like that with some father beans and nice sauce hehe
It's Fava. "I ate his liver with Fava beans and a nice bottle of Chianti" - Hannibal Lechter in SILENCE OF THE LAMBS: TIL Fava beans are broad beans
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vicia_faba
gatch
21st January 2012, 13:09
Are you kidding 500 for a rim is it brand new or what talk about rip of if its second hand ?
Yes second hand, they are rare like rocking horse p00z.
$500 for a good condition second hand RVF400 rear rim is pretty much the price. Its all supply and demand, baby.
What he said..
It's irrelevant anyhow. I can get a set of slicks at my house for around $550 (17" front, 18" rear), which is pretty much the going rate for slicks anyway.
HenryDorsetCase
21st January 2012, 13:32
Yes second hand, they are rare like rocking horse p00z.
What he said..
It's irrelevant anyhow. I can get a set of slicks at my house for around $550 (17" front, 18" rear), which is pretty much the going rate for slicks anyway.
I'm pretty carefully considering buying that rim for the VFR rolling chassis I have. (with rego on hold). Then all I need is a RD500 motor, and a whole buncha money. A whoooooole bunch.
actungbaby
21st January 2012, 14:59
I wonder if that's the one that was for sale at Casbolts when I lived in Chch (1994-1996)? I had a VF500 at the time, and dearly wanted to buy it. Ended up keeping the VF for a few more years, before buying a VFR like Warr's one.
me too i was so close to buying that bike as well just was moving to plamerston north after working last 8 years in chch
my true home town .. only reason was declined on the finance because if just left my job and was inbetween jobs aghhhh
20 Plus years latter well fast froward to 2012 and i finally managed to get one
was it the amiercian vfr 700 model i think i did like white one too i remmber drooling of both models in there
crazy man
21st January 2012, 15:56
has anyone ever seen proper flat slide racing carbs for a nc30 fcr 33MM ? can you still get them
Grumph
21st January 2012, 16:07
has anyone ever seen proper flat slide racing carbs for a nc30 fcr 33MM ? can you still get them
Keihin FCR33's are still available - but you'd have to buy a bank of four and cut them up then make linkages....not hard for a man like you.
The Roberts bikes in the early couple of seasons of F3 here had what were rumoured to be HRC kit carbs......
crazy man
21st January 2012, 16:33
Keihin FCR33's are still available - but you'd have to buy a bank of four and cut them up then make linkages....not hard for a man like you.
The Roberts bikes in the early couple of seasons of F3 here had what were rumoured to be HRC kit carbs......l dont know if the carbs on a nc30 in a fcr state are molded to link closey togetter ? or are they like this rc30 set that looks like it can me done fine?
http://www.jb-power.co.jp/new/info.php?seq=8
Grumph
21st January 2012, 19:45
The FCR's in all those have unmodified bodies as far as i can see. Linkages are a pain. The RC30's have more room obviously. From the sound of things there may be a few sets for the NC30's floating round but if you can't find one then I'm sure it's possible to cut an inline set to suit.
The biggest thing with the NC's is to finish the crank properly - Honda don't ! Properly radiused oil holes on the crank will keep the bottom end together as will going to the thinnest shells - yellow if I remember right. They're way too tight as standard.
The first two NC30's to be raced in ChCh both did big ends, luckily with no crank damage. I sorted both well before Casbolts even had a parts fische.
lukemillar
22nd January 2012, 06:07
has anyone ever seen proper flat slide racing carbs for a nc30 fcr 33MM ? can you still get them
Mine are 32mm. The bodies are unmodified but the linkages are pretty complex! I have a lot of detail pics if your are interested because as your probably have found out, these things are like rocking horse shit - even finding any pics on the net are near impossible:
255647
255648
crazy man
22nd January 2012, 07:01
Mine are 32mm. The bodies are unmodified but the linkages are pretty complex! I have a lot of detail pics if your are interested because as your probably have found out, these things are like rocking horse shit - even finding any pics on the net are near impossible:
255647
255648thanks sorry to see you had a bad looking crash. l found some pic most of them yours lol. think l will buy a set of strate ones which are a bit easyer to find ( only just ) and make them up. l dont realy want to change my zxr400 ones.. or else fuel injection will be the go
thanks
lukemillar
23rd January 2012, 13:20
thanks sorry to see you had a bad looking crash. l found some pic most of them yours lol. think l will buy a set of strate ones which are a bit easyer to find ( only just ) and make them up. l dont realy want to change my zxr400 ones.. or else fuel injection will be the go
thanks
I have loads of other detail pics that I haven't posted, so if you need any, then give me a shout and i'll upload them. Yeah, van is toast and it sucks the bike was in the back as it has sidelined me since.
crazy man
23rd January 2012, 15:17
I have loads of other detail pics that I haven't posted, so if you need any, then give me a shout and i'll upload them. Yeah, van is toast and it sucks the bike was in the back as it has sidelined me since.cheers for that may have to hold you to it if l pick some up.. did you dyno your bike with the stock carbs? if so what was it like?
lukemillar
23rd January 2012, 15:42
cheers for that may have to hold you to it if l pick some up.. did you dyno your bike with the stock carbs? if so what was it like?
Nah, I didn't but I really wish I had! I have some better needles now for the FCR's and have fixed up the accelerator pump, so I should be able to get a better dyno readout. Can't find the exact needles I need and if I want to order them from Japan, I have to order minimum of 20, which works out about $800 :shit: so I'm just gonna stick with what I have.
gatch
24th January 2012, 22:45
Manfield motoTT track day this friday.
I'm going. w0000000000
HenryDorsetCase
25th January 2012, 08:43
I have loads of other detail pics that I haven't posted, so if you need any, then give me a shout and i'll upload them. Yeah, van is toast and it sucks the bike was in the back as it has sidelined me since.
those FCRs are pure sex.
rachprice
25th January 2012, 09:35
Manfield motoTT track day this friday.
I'm going. w0000000000
Bastard!
Im working.....how am I ever gonna catch up
gatch
25th January 2012, 15:36
Bastard!
Im working.....how am I ever gonna catch up
Oh come on lovely it's pretty obvious innit... :facepalm:
Get the day off, or quit. Or stay slower than me FOREVER HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA HAHHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAAAAAAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH AHAHHAHHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH
crazy man
25th January 2012, 18:02
those FCRs are pure sex.to much for us porpers
rachprice
26th January 2012, 07:54
Oh come on lovely it's pretty obvious innit... :facepalm:
Get the day off, or quit. Or stay slower than me FOREVER HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA HAHHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAAAAAAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH AHAHHAHHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH
Quit after 6 years? I think not....so so close to earning properly!
But I may be slower than you forever, curse it
lukemillar
26th January 2012, 08:08
to much for us porpers
You haven't seen my credit card bill :no:
actungbaby
26th January 2012, 10:21
I'm pretty carefully considering buying that rim for the VFR rolling chassis I have. (with rego on hold). Then all I need is a RD500 motor, and a whole buncha money. A whoooooole bunch.
yes i spent close to grand so far on mine 600.00 plus for parts and couting 40.00 to get rad fixed thats cheapest so far really happy
with that so thats majour win for me
They just glued it up had decent hole too cause throught the case the bike went through
I put it on my vfr blog
actungbaby
26th January 2012, 10:23
Nah, I didn't but I really wish I had! I have some better needles now for the FCR's and have fixed up the accelerator pump, so I should be able to get a better dyno readout. Can't find the exact needles I need and if I want to order them from Japan, I have to order minimum of 20, which works out about $800 :shit: so I'm just gonna stick with what I have.
A dumb whats a fcr i thought this was about vfrs
HenryDorsetCase
26th January 2012, 10:54
A dumb whats a fcr i thought this was about vfrs
you taking the piss? its hard to tell.
Luke is putting Keihin FCR carburettors on his NC30. I adore the FCR's though they are notoriously expensive and difficult to set up. Plus he has to make mounts and linkages etc.
http://www.sudco.com/keihin.html
crazy man
26th January 2012, 14:59
you taking the piss? its hard to tell.
Luke is putting Keihin FCR carburettors on his NC30. I adore the FCR's though they are notoriously expensive and difficult to set up. Plus he has to make mounts and linkages etc.
http://www.sudco.com/keihin.htmll like them l'v set lots up over the years..l hate the dam stock shiters )-;
gatch
26th January 2012, 21:47
New oil and filter, glycol free coolant, shiny new tire pressure gauge, everything lockwired up and I got the day off work tomorrow. Wooot !
nzvlogger
26th January 2012, 21:52
Hey dudes, got me a VFR400 today! love it, 6th bike i had i think... Best looking one ive had, has a Tyga kit. one question... the twin exhausts on the back sound cool but i want something with a real deep sound you know... can any one suggest anything? I was thinking either new mufflers or maybe packing them??
256109256108
gatch
26th January 2012, 22:51
Hey dudes, got me a VFR400 today! love it, 6th bike i had i think... Best looking one ive had, has a Tyga kit. one question... the twin exhausts on the back sound cool but i want something with a real deep sound you know... can any one suggest anything? I was thinking either new mufflers or maybe packing them??
256109256108
It is a 4 cyl 400.. I don't think it will get real deep.
I took the end can off mine once.
Sounded fairly hearty..
Lateralus
27th January 2012, 00:41
Hey dudes, got me a VFR400 today! love it, 6th bike i had i think... Best looking one ive had, has a Tyga kit. one question... the twin exhausts on the back sound cool but i want something with a real deep sound you know... can any one suggest anything? I was thinking either new mufflers or maybe packing them??
256109256108
Those underseat cans look amazing. I could easily do with a pair of those :yes:
sil3nt
27th January 2012, 15:03
Nice looking bike. Need better photos though!
gatch
27th January 2012, 21:12
Today was massive.
Sliding around in the wet. Track dried up at the end of the day and I got 2 fast sessions in. Seat of the pants stopwatch says a second faster than previous best, at least !
Wicked stuff.
crazy man
28th January 2012, 14:58
Today was massive.
Sliding around in the wet. Track dried up at the end of the day and I got 2 fast sessions in. Seat of the pants stopwatch says a second faster than previous best, at least !
Wicked stuff.how did the new shock go feel better or alot better?
gatch
28th January 2012, 22:19
how did the new shock go feel better or alot better?
Haven't put it in yet. I have a hunch that it would push the front end about something fierce.
Will get some forks first, then put the shock in.
motorbyclist
29th January 2012, 00:09
It is a 4 cyl 400.. I don't think it will get real deep.
:Oi:
the V4 will make an awesome burble with a free flowing muffler
gatch
29th January 2012, 00:12
:Oi:
the V4 will make an awesome burble with a free flowing muffler
Oi your face.
I know it does, I have one with said muffler.
But it is only a burble.
It's not going to boom like a thunder storm in hell like a big 90degree v twin is it.
crazy man
29th January 2012, 05:54
Oi your face.
I know it does, I have one with said muffler.
But it is only a burble.
It's not going to boom like a thunder storm in hell like a big 90degree v twin is it.but it will be like a big sewing machine lol
ecko_nzed
30th January 2012, 20:48
Ignitech programmable ignition, with a HRC map on it and Ignitech super heavy duty reg/rec (it's huge!):love:. Bring on the rebuild :2thumbsup
DrunkenMistake
30th January 2012, 20:57
Ignitech programmable ignition, with a HRC map on it and Ignitech super heavy duty reg/rec (it's huge!):love:. Bring on the rebuild :2thumbsup
I think I have the cable somewhere so you can remap the cdi using your PC and the software at my parents house if you want it ill go out and have a look for it, I think the cable is like $50 from dick smiths!
Scuba_Steve
31st January 2012, 12:16
Hey boys 'n girls, is it "common" for black boxes to go??? My Viffer ain't sparking & I've tested all connections etc which are coming up power on all, leaving the suggestion it's the black box at fault. Does this sound like a viable fault?
I just want my POWER!!! back. The fxr just don't have the same feeling (tho I have been enjoying the fuel savings)
motorbyclist
31st January 2012, 18:23
no it's not common for the CDI to go....
are all four plugs and both coils not functional?
Gingin
31st January 2012, 19:01
IT was the pulse generator on on my vffr -- no pulse so didn't know when to spark so didn't.
jono035
31st January 2012, 19:07
Hey boys 'n girls, is it "common" for black boxes to go??? My Viffer ain't sparking & I've tested all connections etc which are coming up power on all, leaving the suggestion it's the black box at fault. Does this sound like a viable fault?
I just want my POWER!!! back. The fxr just don't have the same feeling (tho I have been enjoying the fuel savings)
Pretty uncommon, although there are a few spares floating around from people swapping out their CDIs for programmable ones.
I'd say check the connectors for corrosion and test the harness for continuity. Broken wires and corroded connections are pretty common, especially if the bike hasn't always been garaged.
Scuba_Steve
31st January 2012, 19:08
no it's not common for the CDI to go....
are all four plugs and both coils not functional?
na none of the plugs or any of the 4 coils spark for me, yet I'm getting the voltages & resistances I should expect along the lines. So the next suggestion was the CDI
koba
31st January 2012, 21:45
na none of the plugs or any of the 4 coils spark for me, yet I'm getting the voltages & resistances I should expect along the lines. So the next suggestion was the CDI
As above, pulse generator is more likely.
ecko_nzed
31st January 2012, 22:17
I think I have the cable somewhere so you can remap the cdi using your PC and the software at my parents house if you want it ill go out and have a look for it, I think the cable is like $50 from dick smiths!
I got the cable and CD with software on it with the CDI. Although I asked for a USB cable, he sent a serial cable :brick: (who the fcuk has a laptop with a serial port on it any more!:laugh:). Is your cable USB to Serial or Serial to Serial? If it's gonna take ages for him to send the correct cable and yours is USB, I'll take you up on the offer. I'm still waiting on other engine bits on the slow boat from Japan. :wait:
DrunkenMistake
31st January 2012, 23:40
I got the cable and CD with software on it with the CDI. Although I asked for a USB cable, he sent a serial cable :brick: (who the fcuk has a laptop with a serial port on it any more!:laugh:). Is your cable USB to Serial or Serial to Serial? If it's gonna take ages for him to send the correct cable and yours is USB, I'll take you up on the offer. I'm still waiting on other engine bits on the slow boat from Japan. :wait:
Well im going to invers with the old man tomorrow and hes suppose to come pick me up from my place, so ill swing by theirs on the way back and find it for ya, but its Serial to USB ill PM you tomorrow arvo if I can find it
jono035
1st February 2012, 06:03
I got the cable and CD with software on it with the CDI. Although I asked for a USB cable, he sent a serial cable :brick: (who the fcuk has a laptop with a serial port on it any more!:laugh:). Is your cable USB to Serial or Serial to Serial? If it's gonna take ages for him to send the correct cable and yours is USB, I'll take you up on the offer. I'm still waiting on other engine bits on the slow boat from Japan. :wait:
http://www.cablesdirect.co.nz/catalog/entry?entry=386
BF-810Y on that page. $21.02 incl. GST and shipping.
I've got a couple of these and they are one of the more reliable ones I've used.
Scuba_Steve
1st February 2012, 08:39
As above, pulse generator is more likely.
Yea that was one of my beginning thoughts but I have tested resistance across them & it's within spec, so unless they're known to go while still giving spec resistance I'd assume it's still good?
Just to make sure too, there is no way to test the CDI other than swapping it out with a working CDI or putting it in a working bike is there???
DrunkenMistake
1st February 2012, 15:19
Well im going to invers with the old man tomorrow and hes suppose to come pick me up from my place, so ill swing by theirs on the way back and find it for ya, but its Serial to USB ill PM you tomorrow arvo if I can find it
Cant seem to find it, sorry man!
sil3nt
1st February 2012, 15:20
Cant seem to find it, sorry man!Did you ever sell those suzuka fairings?
DrunkenMistake
1st February 2012, 16:35
Did you ever sell those suzuka fairings?
Yeah, some lucky fella in Auckland got them at a good price
koba
1st February 2012, 16:41
Yea that was one of my beginning thoughts but I have tested resistance across them & it's within spec, so unless they're known to go while still giving spec resistance I'd assume it's still good?
Just to make sure too, there is no way to test the CDI other than swapping it out with a working CDI or putting it in a working bike is there???
I can't remember if mine tested correctly or not, sorry.
The manual has a whole bunch of info on what to measure, if you haven't already followed it and can get/have an manual.
crazy man
1st February 2012, 16:56
I can't remember if mine tested correctly or not, sorry.
The manual has a whole bunch of info on what to measure, if you haven't already followed it and can get/have an manual.have ya had the cut yet or are they still hanging on
koba
1st February 2012, 17:00
have ya had the cut yet or are they still hanging on
Still hanging.
Sleep with one eye open tho! :eek5:
Scuba_Steve
1st February 2012, 18:50
I can't remember if mine tested correctly or not, sorry.
The manual has a whole bunch of info on what to measure, if you haven't already followed it and can get/have an manual.
I've got the Haynes manual & gone through any test I can in that.
Maybee someone here wouldn't mind hooking my CDI upto their bike (if they can) to prove/disprove this is my prob???
It's off my 1986 VFR700F if that makes a diff
crazy man
1st February 2012, 19:16
I've got the Haynes manual & gone through any test I can in that.
Maybee someone here wouldn't mind hooking my CDI upto their bike (if they can) to prove/disprove this is my prob???
It's off my 1986 VFR700F if that makes a diffis this any good
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/electrics/auction-444961403.htm
motorbyclist
1st February 2012, 19:54
Yea that was one of my beginning thoughts but I have tested resistance across them & it's within spec, so unless they're known to go while still giving spec resistance I'd assume it's still good?
Just to make sure too, there is no way to test the CDI other than swapping it out with a working CDI or putting it in a working bike is there???
It's off my 1986 VFR700F if that makes a diff
considering the age of the bike you really should try physically unplugging, inspecting and replugging all the plugs if you havn't already done so. A can of CO contact cleaner may help. What your multimeter says and what the bike sees under electrical load may not be the same.
otherwise, yes, swapping with a good one would be a good test - if you can find one!
is this any good
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/electrics/auction-444961403.htm
wrong model and year
Gingin
1st February 2012, 19:56
Have 86 VFR700F sitting in shed in process of fixing up and putting back on road, Started and ran last time I tested. can hook up CDI unit and test, just need to get unit to Levin
Offers there..
ecko_nzed
1st February 2012, 20:10
http://www.cablesdirect.co.nz/catalog/entry?entry=386
BF-810Y on that page. $21.02 incl. GST and shipping.
I've got a couple of these and they are one of the more reliable ones I've used.
I've paid for the proper cable already, not going pay twice
Cant seem to find it, sorry man!
no worries, he's already chucked it in the post, should be here in a few days. but thanks for looking :niceone:
Scuba_Steve
1st February 2012, 21:00
is this any good
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/electrics/auction-444961403.htm
Cheers dude but as motorbyclist said wrong type
Have 86 VFR700F sitting in shed in process of fixing up and putting back on road, Started and ran last time I tested. can hook up CDI unit and test, just need to get unit to Levin
Offers there..
might have to take you up on that, PM me your address I'll see if I can get it couriered up before the weekend along with a return ticket if thats alright?
nzvlogger
3rd February 2012, 06:03
Any of you boys got a pair of forks, triple clamps, and front discs laying around? lol I want to get rid of the TZR forks (one is leaking anyway)
jono035
4th February 2012, 08:42
I'd use it as an excuse to move to a programmable CDI :D
I've got a spare CDI floating around. Could send that down for you to test with if need be.
actungbaby
5th February 2012, 10:48
you taking the piss? its hard to tell.
Luke is putting Keihin FCR carburettors on his NC30. I adore the FCR's though they are notoriously expensive and difficult to set up. Plus he has to make mounts and linkages etc.
http://www.sudco.com/keihin.html
Nope i never even seen my carbs let alone no what numbers there called hehe
remember not all us here are experts like you fellows so i know the nc30 is a 400cc vfour honda the one with out single sided swing arm ?
actungbaby
5th February 2012, 10:50
Cheers dude but as motorbyclist said wrong type
might have to take you up on that, PM me your address I'll see if I can get it couriered up before the weekend along with a return ticket if thats alright?
need any help am here in palmerston north with my vfr 750 fn 1992 pm me also
jono035
5th February 2012, 14:23
Just finally got around to installing the Ignitech programmable CDI that I bought ages ago.
Took the bike for a blast, no more noticeable flat spot then surge at 7k, instead it's smooth through the range. I can't tell whether the bike would be noticeably faster or not, but it's way nicer to ride around town.
Also, apparently my tacho was reading 10% high, too...
Edit: Just having a bit more of a play with it, it seems to ignore the side-stand cut off switch. There was a box in the software that said 'inputs for neutral side and stand' but checking it just made the bike never start, no matter what clutch/shifter/side stand position it was in... Anyone else using one of these and trying to keep the cut-out?
Scuba_Steve
5th February 2012, 15:24
I'd use it as an excuse to move to a programmable CDI :D
I've got a spare CDI floating around. Could send that down for you to test with if need be.
need any help am here in palmerston north with my vfr 750 fn 1992 pm me also
Hey cheers guys, but Gingin already had a look for me found it to be working on his (financial relief for me :sweatdrop) so it's a matter of going back through the whole electrical system with my [cough] awesome mechanical skills :no: to try & find the fault.
jono035
5th February 2012, 16:39
Hey cheers guys, but Gingin already had a look for me found it to be working on his (financial relief for me :sweatdrop) so it's a matter of going back through the whole electrical system with my [cough] awesome mechanical skills :no: to try & find the fault.
http://www.dicksmith.co.nz/product/N1072/crc-co-contact-cleaner-350g
Grab a can of that, pull all the connectors and give the contacts a liberal dosing. You can use a cotton bud and some isopropyl alcohol, but that stuff is easier and better on the female faston type connectors.
Look for any corrosion or other white/blue powdery stuff both on the contacts and in the backshells that they're clipped into. Give each wire a firm tug to try pull it out of the backshell, sometimes they'll be broken or the crimps will have failed.
Go along the loom section by section looking for any spots where it might have rubbed against the frame or something and worn through. Check that you've got good continuity between the battery -ve terminal and ground, both on the engine and on the frame.
Beyond that, I have no ideas other than find someone with an oscilloscope and start checking sensor outputs.
crazy man
6th February 2012, 18:01
Haven't put it in yet. I have a hunch that it would push the front end about something fierce.
Will get some forks first, then put the shock in.hows the racing gone this weekend on the classic's
gatch
6th February 2012, 18:06
hows the racing gone this weekend on the classic's
Not bad aye. Snagged a couple of thirds, not bad considering Nick Cole and another very fast bloke named Chris Swallow were at the front of the pack..
Had some good battles with a dude that used to w00p my ass. Managed to get off the track and onto the grass at 100mph on the top of the hill, stayed on the bike though. Primo weekend man.
Only problem now is waiting for the next round of racing eh..
crazy man
6th February 2012, 18:15
Not bad aye. Snagged a couple of thirds, not bad considering Nick Cole and another very fast bloke named Chris Swallow were at the front of the pack..
Had some good battles with a dude that used to w00p my ass. Managed to get off the track and onto the grass at 100mph on the top of the hill, stayed on the bike though. Primo weekend man.
Only problem now is waiting for the next round of racing eh..that is very good going l know nick and chris race alot not like us porpers lol.. do you race your bucket alot? gokarts tracks?
gatch
6th February 2012, 18:18
that is very good going l know nick and chris race alot not like us porpers lol.. do you race your bucket alot? gokarts tracks?
Yeah man they are very very quick dudes on very well sorted bikes..
I haven't had my bucket out for about 8 months. I'm making a new fuel tank for it at the moment, as I lost the key to the stock one.. Once the tank is in and a cover made for it, I'll get out when I can..
I see you made a frame for a dudes bucket. Looks pretty mint.
PirateJafa
6th February 2012, 18:20
Only problem now is waiting for the next round of racing eh..
Isn't that the truth! With such a good weekend as we just had, I can't wait to get out on the track next weekend at Hampton Downs too!
Two weekends of racing, then followed immediately by spectating at Paeroa. This is shaping up to be a fine February!
crazy man
6th February 2012, 18:41
Yeah man they are very very quick dudes on very well sorted bikes..
I haven't had my bucket out for about 8 months. I'm making a new fuel tank for it at the moment, as I lost the key to the stock one.. Once the tank is in and a cover made for it, I'll get out when I can..
I see you made a frame for a dudes bucket. Looks pretty mint.that bucket also been made to take a tzr 250 for f3. hope he gets the motor ready for the gp
ecko_nzed
7th February 2012, 22:17
Edit: Just having a bit more of a play with it, it seems to ignore the side-stand cut off switch. There was a box in the software that said 'inputs for neutral side and stand' but checking it just made the bike never start, no matter what clutch/shifter/side stand position it was in... Anyone else using one of these and trying to keep the cut-out?
I've just brought one for my RVF, once it's back together I'll let you know about the side stand cut out.
HenryDorsetCase
8th February 2012, 10:44
I am gathering bits for my VFR rolling chassis. It will need a new engine. I had a brilliant idea of using a new Bonneville motor in it for shits and giggles. Except the new Bonnies have the output sprocket on the right, eht VFR motor has it on the left. Short of turning the swingarm upside down (MAJOR hassle $$$ and time and engineering) I am thinking of other motor options.
My favourite one was an RD500 motor but the exhaust plumbing in particular is daunting, and again BIG $$. I could always pick up another motor for not much money, but the idea of MOAR power is intriguing. I have searched but I wonder if anyone has shoehorned a VFR750 motor into one of these frames?
ideas/suggestions anyone?
sil3nt
8th February 2012, 10:53
750 works
http://www.400greybike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=18988
Could get a 450cc big bore kit if you find an NC30 engine.
crazy man
8th February 2012, 10:54
I am gathering bits for my VFR rolling chassis. It will need a new engine. I had a brilliant idea of using a new Bonneville motor in it for shits and giggles. Except the new Bonnies have the output sprocket on the right, eht VFR motor has it on the left. Short of turning the swingarm upside down (MAJOR hassle $$$ and time and engineering) I am thinking of other motor options.
My favourite one was an RD500 motor but the exhaust plumbing in particular is daunting, and again BIG $$. I could always pick up another motor for not much money, but the idea of MOAR power is intriguing. I have searched but I wonder if anyone has shoehorned a VFR750 motor into one of these frames?
ideas/suggestions anyone?l spoke to a guy a month or 2 back saying hes putting a sv650 motor into one for a f3 bike. if it fits prombly not a bad bike
HenryDorsetCase
8th February 2012, 11:46
Theres an RC-51 SP2 motor on tardme for $3600 which has potential. issues would likely be front wheel clearance and snapping the frame in half like a twiglet the first time it was opened up. That 89 hp NC30 sounds like fun though, right? (with the 750 motor).
Its all bullshit at present really but I do have to do something with this roller (plus it has rego on hold......)
DrunkenMistake
8th February 2012, 11:55
l spoke to a guy a month or 2 back saying hes putting a sv650 motor into one for a f3 bike. if it fits prombly not a bad bike
Should be able to shoehorn a twin without much hassle, and the plumbing would be easy to sort out
sil3nt
8th February 2012, 12:04
Theres an RC-51 SP2 motor on tardme for $3600 which has potential. issues would likely be front wheel clearance and snapping the frame in half like a twiglet the first time it was opened up. That 89 hp NC30 sounds like fun though, right? (with the 750 motor).
Its all bullshit at present really but I do have to do something with this roller (plus it has rego on hold......)If you have the money they got the same hp out of the 450 motor. http://mngforce.typepad.com/nc450vdev/nv450v-gen-6ti-2011-engine.html
HenryDorsetCase
8th February 2012, 12:10
If you have the money they got the same hp out of the 450 motor. http://mngforce.typepad.com/nc450vdev/nv450v-gen-6ti-2011-engine.html
did you see the "cost to build" at $20000 USD?
gulp.
given you could buy a whole RC30 for that he is well into the tail part of the graph of diminishing returns.....
gatch
8th February 2012, 18:00
I am gathering bits for my VFR rolling chassis. It will need a new engine. I had a brilliant idea of using a new Bonneville motor in it for shits and giggles. Except the new Bonnies have the output sprocket on the right, eht VFR motor has it on the left. Short of turning the swingarm upside down (MAJOR hassle $$$ and time and engineering) I am thinking of other motor options.
My favourite one was an RD500 motor but the exhaust plumbing in particular is daunting, and again BIG $$. I could always pick up another motor for not much money, but the idea of MOAR power is intriguing. I have searched but I wonder if anyone has shoehorned a VFR750 motor into one of these frames?
ideas/suggestions anyone?
Any new motor in one of those frames is going to take fairly serious coin. Fabrication, machining and welding etc. Unless you want to be real rude and make steel adapter plates to hold up the motor.
My idea for the motor.. 750 or 900ss vtwin duc. Aircooled 2 valve with big fuck off THUNDEROUS megaphones. It would sound bad as fuck and would certainly turn some heads.
PirateJafa
8th February 2012, 18:07
Should be able to shoehorn a twin without much hassle, and the plumbing would be easy to sort out
With a decent bit of trouble (though not insurmountable), I think you will find.
Scuba_Steve
8th February 2012, 20:05
For those keeping up with me stumbling through the diag of me viffer.
I've gone through tonight & cleaned/checked for loose connections (no loose ones, all tight, & no broken)
gingin I found that 3rd pickup you mentioned, that too is reading in range.
So far still no spark, but I've depleted my batt so thats now on charge for the night. I'm gonna check the kill switch again thoroughly make sure thats not the prob, but other than that It'll have to wait till Fri before I can continue further (got paintball tomorrow). I'm hoping to at-least diag the problem by end of weekend so I'll report back with either my findings or failure :sweatdrop
HenryDorsetCase
8th February 2012, 20:49
Any new motor in one of those frames is going to take fairly serious coin. Fabrication, machining and welding etc. Unless you want to be real rude and make steel adapter plates to hold up the motor.
My idea for the motor.. 750 or 900ss vtwin duc. Aircooled 2 valve with big fuck off THUNDEROUS megaphones. It would sound bad as fuck and would certainly turn some heads.
Norton Commando engine maybe? :)
Dunno, just thinking aloud really. Going to reassemble the rolling chassis soon.
Icemaestro
8th February 2012, 21:15
Sure I remembered an article in an old bike mag about someone putting a 750 engine in the nc30...and it being pretty straightforward...they put the 900 engine in the cbr600 all the time...just often have to put some mounting plates off the original front mounts
HenryDorsetCase
8th February 2012, 21:21
Sure I remembered an article in an old bike mag about someone putting a 750 engine in the nc30...and it being pretty straightforward...they put the 900 engine in the cbr600 all the time...just often have to put some mounting plates off the original front mounts
to be honest that would be my first preference assuming I go that route. The link above (VFR750 into NC30) was excellent.
ecko_nzed
8th February 2012, 21:43
to be honest that would be my first preference assuming I go that route. The link above (VFR750 into NC30) was excellent.
what about a VTR750 firestorm motor, wouldn't have the problem of the RC-51 as I don't think they make that much power, plus there are a few wrecks on trademe?
gatch
8th February 2012, 22:34
Norton Commando engine maybe? :)
Dunno, just thinking aloud really. Going to reassemble the rolling chassis soon.
I doubt you would fit the finning in between the frame spars. A 920 NRE motor would be sick as fuck though. Would probably melt the frame from it's sheer awesomeness though. And melt your face.
lukemillar
9th February 2012, 07:40
I'd go with the VFR750 motor as well - Tried, tested and not a complete ballache!
HenryDorsetCase
9th February 2012, 08:40
I'd go with the VFR750 motor as well - Tried, tested and not a complete ballache!
should also be cheap-ish: Ideally an EFI one. the only real drama I think would be the rear headers: they're a PITA on an NC30, but with LESS clearance? urk.
but yeah, an easy, reliable 80+ hp NC30? WOO!
Plus the only new money in it is the motor etc: The rolling chassis is free (actually anything but free, but since I already own it, it is essentially free, even though I dare not count the amount of money sunk into NC30 bits over the years...
koba
10th February 2012, 06:37
should also be cheap-ish: Ideally an EFI one. the only real drama I think would be the rear headers: they're a PITA on an NC30, but with LESS clearance? urk.
but yeah, an easy, reliable 80+ hp NC30? WOO!
Plus the only new money in it is the motor etc: The rolling chassis is free (actually anything but free, but since I already own it, it is essentially free, even though I dare not count the amount of money sunk into NC30 bits over the years...
If you want a cheap and easy option to get it going I have an NC24 I want to get rid of...
ecko_nzed
10th February 2012, 10:38
engine reconditioner say mine are a bit naffed and if he cuts them will probably end up no good. anybody have some laying around they don't want?
motordrummer
10th February 2012, 10:44
Hey guys n gals, i just bought my first VFR 400R....so no mechanical issues yet. Seems pretty straight and handles well (from the test ride anyway) Im suspended at the 'mo, lost my demerits through speeding on my GSXR...shame. So i decided a down size might be a good idea for a while at least. the only weird thing is the 'SPEED' warning light on the instrument panel. What's that all about? Never encounted that before, so excuse my ignorance ha ha. Also, some tips on service or maintainence intervals or just general comments on this model bike would be greatly appriciated. 1991 VFR 400R. cheers aye:)
HenryDorsetCase
10th February 2012, 11:36
Hey guys n gals, i just bought my first VFR 400R....so no mechanical issues yet. Seems pretty straight and handles well (from the test ride anyway) Im suspended at the 'mo, lost my demerits through speeding on my GSXR...shame. So i decided a down size might be a good idea for a while at least. the only weird thing is the 'SPEED' warning light on the instrument panel. What's that all about? Never encounted that before, so excuse my ignorance ha ha. Also, some tips on service or maintainence intervals or just general comments on this model bike would be greatly appriciated. 1991 VFR 400R. cheers aye:)
1991 = NC30, so gear driven cams, infrequent (but expensive valve adjustments) maintenance. The motors in stock form are renowned for reliability: key is oil and filter changes. They can be a bit hard on spark plugs I find and spark plugs are VERY expensive. Check the air filter too, just the normal maintenance stuff you'd do on any bike. The known issues with them revolve around the regulator/rectifier (check its charging properly), and the restricted top speed at 180kph: easy to fix.
If it has stock suspension it will need a rebuild at least probably, or cartidge emulators in the forks and maybe a respring, and a shock rebuild or replacement. the rear tyre size is 18 inch which might cause some issues getting sticky rubber for but it is available. The hot ticket is an RVF400 17 inch rear wheel, but if you do that you will need the new shock to get back the rear ride height you've lost.
Great bikes, truly. Enjoy.
motordrummer
10th February 2012, 12:39
Hey thanks for that...and that 'Speed' warning light on the instrument panel? it flashed on and off at relatively low revs at a 100kph...anything to worry 'bout?
HenryDorsetCase
10th February 2012, 12:57
Hey thanks for that...and that 'Speed' warning light on the instrument panel? it flashed on and off at relatively low revs at a 100kph...anything to worry 'bout?
wouldnt thinks o: they were all Jap imports and I think it is or was a mandatory requirement in Nippon that a light came on if you exceeded the speed limit. Take the bulb out?
sil3nt
10th February 2012, 13:36
I also have a 91 NC30. Doesn't have a speed light though. My 250 GPX has one that comes on at 80kph because that is what the speed limit was for learners in japan.
With the gearing on the NC30 its hard not to be speeding really.
Gingin
10th February 2012, 14:42
For those keeping up with me stumbling through the diag of me viffer.
I've gone through tonight & cleaned/checked for loose connections (no loose ones, all tight, & no broken)
gingin I found that 3rd pickup you mentioned, that too is reading in range.
So far still no spark, but I've depleted my batt so thats now on charge for the night. I'm gonna check the kill switch again thoroughly make sure thats not the prob, but other than that It'll have to wait till Fri before I can continue further (got paintball tomorrow). I'm hoping to at-least diag the problem by end of weekend so I'll report back with either my findings or failure :sweatdrop
Hey scuba_steve that couldbe a bit frustrating. Run through the below procedure and let meknow. You may have done some or all of it already, but just in case..
We know CDI unit works..Well it did on my machine.
Disconnect plugs at CDI unit. Locate the 3 pair wires for the three pulse generators-perform resistance test across each of the pairs. This will test all wiring and connections in the lines to pulse generators.
Reconnect plugs and turn on ignition. Locate power feed Black/White wire check for 12 volts (approx). Locate 4 wires for the 4 ignition coils and test for 12volts (approx) at the plug
This will test all power feeds including kill switch and power to the coils.
Turn off ignition and locate earth wire and resistance test to frame or Battery negative approx 0 ohm resistance
If these tests check OK then you have something strange, If you want a hand I'm bout due for aspin around the "block" . I can pack up the oscilloscope drop in for coffee and a bit of a look see.
Just been through this saga myself, my issue turned out to be an open circuit pulse generator, to prove it was the real source of the problem and that the CDI unit worked I broke open and performed a crude rebuild of the pulse generator. I now need to locate a replacement unit (pulsegenerator). Hint hint to anybody reading this and may know where I can pick one up aye. :msn-wink:
motordrummer
10th February 2012, 14:59
wouldnt thinks o: they were all Jap imports and I think it is or was a mandatory requirement in Nippon that a light came on if you exceeded the speed limit. Take the bulb out?
Cool, at least i know what it's for now.Cheers for that man. Is it possible to get a 17in rear wheel with a slightly wider tyre for this bike? Apart from the suspension mods mentioned earlier in the thread, would it alter the handling in any way? Cheers:)
sil3nt
10th February 2012, 15:03
Cool, at least i know what it's for now.Cheers for that man. Is it possible to get a 17in rear wheel with a slightly wider tyre for this bike? Apart from the suspension mods mentioned earlier in the thread, would it alter the handling in any way? Cheers:)This site (http://www.400greybike.com/forum/index.php) is full of useful info.
Here is a thread about a wider rear tyre http://www.400greybike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=32657&start=0
lukemillar
10th February 2012, 16:13
Cool, at least i know what it's for now.Cheers for that man. Is it possible to get a 17in rear wheel with a slightly wider tyre for this bike? Apart from the suspension mods mentioned earlier in the thread, would it alter the handling in any way? Cheers:)
If you can find an RVF400 rim then it is a straight swap. I have been running a 160 rear with no hassles of clearance. Only thing I did was increase my ride height for the decrease in wheel diameter, but that can also be done with the RVF linkage as well. Only problem I get is slight exhaust/swingaram interference.
My main motivation for doing it was range of tyres available rather than handling.
motordrummer
10th February 2012, 16:56
This site (http://www.400greybike.com/forum/index.php) is full of useful info.
Here is a thread about a wider rear tyre http://www.400greybike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=32657&start=0
Great info! thanks for the link....very useful indeed. I'll prob just keep it standard for now, but will keep an eye out for 17" wheel- in case i have a prob finding decent tyres for the bike. Cheers aye:)
lukemillar
10th February 2012, 18:14
Great info! thanks for the link....very useful indeed. I'll prob just keep it standard for now, but will keep an eye out for 17" wheel- in case i have a prob finding decent tyres for the bike. Cheers aye:)
I think for road tyres, you'll be fine! I'm using slicks and wet race tyres.
koba
10th February 2012, 21:49
Hint hint to anybody reading this and may know where I can pick one up aye. [/SIZE]:msn-wink:
Try Econohonda.
lukemillar
11th February 2012, 06:59
I've managed to find the size, M20 x 1.5, and available from Rick Oliver in the UK for 5 pound. Does anyone here have one I could borrow, as I can't be arsed waiting for it to arrive. Will pay freight obviously?
I'm sure you're probably sorted by now, but whereabouts are you? I saw some dude with a very nice RVF last weekend about 2mins from where I live, and wondered if it was you? Newtown/Melrose area?
ecko_nzed
11th February 2012, 13:46
I'm sure you're probably sorted by now, but whereabouts are you? I saw some dude with a very nice RVF last weekend about 2mins from where I live, and wondered if it was you? Newtown/Melrose area?
Yeah well sorted, took the block down to Motomart and they popped it off for me. although I got Rick Oliver to chuck one in the last order I got from him. Nope wasn't me riding the RVF as mines in bits in my garage. Worlds longest rebuild.
I'm up in Upper Hutt btw.
Scuba_Steve
11th February 2012, 17:55
Cheers Gingin I went through all the tests, everything seemed to be reporting ok.
So stuck I went back to investigate a noise I thought I was hearing upfront (which I was putting off as people were writing it off as "lack of compression", "normal" for these bikes, or "nothing to worry about" etc, etc & being upfront behind the radiator I was hoping to avoid pulling everything off just to get to it. So I guess I was "hearing what I wanted" rather than going with gut)
So after pulling off all the fairings emptying the radiator & pulling that off, taking off the front cover. Sitting at the bottom in some oil I think I might have found my problem? (photo'd)
4 small blue springs & 2 chew'd pieces of metal.
So hopefully someone might be able to tell me where these came from & what I'm going to need to replace and also confirm my problem is found (I'd hate to find I have multiple issues).
DrunkenMistake
11th February 2012, 18:18
They look like Rocker springs... haha
Or clutch springs but I would put money on Rocker Springs
HenryDorsetCase
11th February 2012, 18:47
what is the "Front cover" you pulled off? which side of the engine? or are you talking about the top rockerbox cover for the front pair of cylinders.
Pretty sure though that having those bits floating around might be slightly out of the HRC guidelines for these motors.......
Scuba_Steve
11th February 2012, 18:56
what is the "Front cover" you pulled off? which side of the engine? or are you talking about the top rockerbox cover for the front pair of cylinders.
Pretty sure though that having those bits floating around might be slightly out of the HRC guidelines for these motors.......
yea the top cover over the 2 front cylinders (sorry I'm learning this as I go & useless with names)
Haynes manual appears to call it the valve cover I think?
jono035
11th February 2012, 20:01
Man, I sure as hell hope you're trolling us.
Just checked the photos from when I had the heads off mine, it doesn't look like the valve springs that I have. They are all noticeably taller and have more coils on them.
Either way, I'd take a shitload more photos of the cams/rockers from a bunch of angles and post them.
Edit: Well, if they are valve springs, then with 8 valves per head, technically you can have 4 broken valves and still have the engine... cough... operational? :mellow:
jono035
11th February 2012, 20:24
I'm still wondering if I'm getting trolled, but do you have a photo showing the size of those springs?
Those are the rocker springs there... There is a smaller spring inside the larger ones shown there, but they are still full height.
Also, I've never done anything to the clutch, but it doesn't appear they use coil springs...
It is an NC30 that you've got, right?
257293
Scuba_Steve
11th February 2012, 20:26
:laugh: No trollin jono035, what's in the pics is what I found & where I found them.
I stopped there (partly through fear of what I might find & partly because I really don't know what I'm doing down there) but I'll try to find where they came from & take some more pics tho I'm not looking forward to the cost I'm assuming I'm gonna be up for :no:
jono035
11th February 2012, 20:30
:laugh: No trollin jono035, what's in the pics is what I found & where I found them.
I stopped there (partly through fear of what I might find & partly because I really don't know what I'm doing down there) but I'll try to find where they came from & take some more pics tho I'm not looking forward to the cost I'm assuming I'm gonna be up for :no:
Well, the bike had been running, so it can't be all that bad, right? :confused:
I'm kinda intrigued now! Can't wait to see some more photos...
Scuba_Steve
11th February 2012, 20:44
Well, the bike had been running, so it can't be all that bad, right? :confused:
I'm kinda intrigued now! Can't wait to see some more photos...
the 4 springs are 15mm & look complete, I don't think it's an NC30? but I don't know it's the 1986 VFR700FG so whatever that ran?
The photo's below show the 4 springs size, where I opened, where I found the parts (under the big center cog), & the 2 shrapnel pieces
DrunkenMistake
11th February 2012, 20:44
Well, the bike had been running, so it can't be all that bad, right? :confused:
I'm kinda intrigued now! Can't wait to see some more photos...
They look to big too be clutch springs, my money would be valve springs, they seem to have the same amount of loops in the two photos not to say they are different sizes still though I guess
HenryDorsetCase
11th February 2012, 21:07
no way are they clutch springs. If we've taken off the front valve cover and thats where they are, then they're from round that area logically. Plus mr clutch is on the side of the engine a LONG way away from where these bits are. If they were clutch parts they'd have grenaded teh motor by now, surely.
Its a VFR700 so it appears to have screw and locknut valve lash adjustment? but it has a gear train to drive the cams it seems. Just throwing ideas out (I have not seen inside one of these motors so this is just guesswork, OK). maybe a backlash adjuster in the gear train? inner valve spring? (though I agree they look to small) is there an obvious place where the bits have metal have come from?
http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1263379567/gallery_3647_3505_153085.jpg is a random internet shot for VFR700 valve train. Does it look like yours? any bits there that arent on yours?
tigertim20
11th February 2012, 21:09
They look to big too be clutch springs, my money would be valve springs, they seem to have the same amount of loops in the two photos not to say they are different sizes still though I guess
if you think thats too big to be a clutch spring, you need to refresh your clutch knowledge my young friend. at a total height of 20mm Id say theyd be more like too small to be clutch springs!
actungbaby
11th February 2012, 21:15
I am gathering bits for my VFR rolling chassis. It will need a new engine. I had a brilliant idea of using a new Bonneville motor in it for shits and giggles. Except the new Bonnies have the output sprocket on the right, eht VFR motor has it on the left. Short of turning the swingarm upside down (MAJOR hassle $$$ and time and engineering) I am thinking of other motor options.
My favourite one was an RD500 motor but the exhaust plumbing in particular is daunting, and again BIG $$. I could always pick up another motor for not much money, but the idea of MOAR power is intriguing. I have searched but I wonder if anyone has shoehorned a VFR750 motor into one of these frames?
ideas/suggestions anyone?
There one on trademe at the moment only problem i got when see engines for sale is
You got to wonder why anyone take a working motor out in the first place if was going perfectly well.
As i brought 2 dudes of trademe and was told they both ran yeah right , with rust inside the motor
And con rod bearings so think like paper , and to be honest most whould no better if we got given any said motor
it might turn over fine does not mean much though
from know on, I will only buy motor, i see running because even the carbs are blocked up through years no use
Been qouted big bucks just have them cleaned up big bucks damm.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/complete-engines/auction-446820857.htm
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/complete-engines/auction-446341392.htm
I might get tips from each other i got vt 250 rolling chassis with no motor
I rekon big single whould be cool also , and in your good handling frame.
if its a twin spar one . rd 500 engine you have real handfull of motorbike
The best part these bikes is there easy to ride why make them worse
A pararell Twin be nice i agree you have to get the balance right weight wise
A not sure in bike you want weight on the front wheel 60/40 split ?hmm on car in middle best
Dont think this is good idea on a bike though
I think if you weighed the front wheel and then the back on set of bathroom scales
With motor in the frame then move it to adjust balance , ride it and see how it feels then move the brackets
that bolt the engine to the frame , you still want rear to have grip too mind you
You have to get the engine to the rear sproket front sprocket inline .
and then you whould have the suspension spring rates front & back
If motor is alot diffrent weight esp heavy Vfr 750 the pro link linkage ratio rates might need to be changed also
You whould need wider rims also, that mean changes also alot to think about
oh ps am getting my vt 500 motorbike soon i wonder if these motors whould be a good fit oh its got shaft drive
Maybe bros engine whould be nice there good motor too relaible sound nice.
DrunkenMistake
11th February 2012, 21:15
if you think thats too big to be a clutch spring, you need to refresh your clutch knowledge my young friend. at a total height of 20mm Id say theyd be more like too small to be clutch springs!
Look at the post time, we both posted at the same time, so I have only just noticed pictures were posted. <_<
HenryDorsetCase
11th February 2012, 21:19
http://images.cmsnl.com/img/partslists/cylinder-head-front-vfr700f2-interceptor-1986-usa_bighu0281e0200_98c4.gif
cylinder head diagram for a VFR700
how would clutch springs get in teh front cam cover though? and presumably without lunching the rest of the motor on the way thru?
jono035
11th February 2012, 22:42
Didn't realise it was a VFR700, for some reason I thought you had an NC30... In that case, ignore my valve springs.
jono035
11th February 2012, 22:45
http://images.cmsnl.com/img/partslists/cylinder-head-front-vfr700f2-interceptor-1986-usa_bighu0281e0200_98c4.gif
cylinder head diagram for a VFR700
how would clutch springs get in teh front cam cover though? and presumably without lunching the rest of the motor on the way thru?
I dunno, the idea of the engine keeping running with some valve springs loose in it seems pretty mind-boggling as well, although a shitload more likely. Perhaps the previous owner used the head as storage for spares? <_<
Scuba_Steve
12th February 2012, 15:30
Well just got home from paintball, went and had another proper look (with more light this time). found where they came from
On the other side (right-hand when facing the bike) of the 2 big middle cogs are something? the top cogs one is broken this is where the 2 chewed pieces of metal & the 4 small springs have come from.
So pictured is the whole front showing the 2 cogs, the complete bottom cog, & the broken top cog
jono035
12th February 2012, 16:24
Oh, OF COURSE! The cam gears are 2 gears on the same shaft countersprung together, I assume for backlash/chatter prevention. Knew they didn't look like valve springs :D
So the keeper for the springs has failed, and the springs and bits have ended up sitting in the head. I would probably assume that there are bits and pieces that have made their way into the sump, too. At least the pieces will be steel, so at a bare minimum, do an oil/filter change and get one of those magnetic sump plugs.
Take a careful look around the entire head and see if you can see anything else broken or with any major dings out of it (specifically the cam gears and cam lobe surfaces). Take the timing cover off and turn the engine over (making sure to turn it forwards, should be marked) and inspect all the moving bits in there to see if anything is marked up or chipped.
As for fixing the problem itself, if you can get a replacement intake cam with its matching holder and journals from a wrecker then that should just drop straight in. If you can only get the cam then I don't know what the deal is. Check all the bits for service tolerances and then just give it a shot?
Pretty easy procedure, but you will definitely need a torque wrench and probably some molybdenum grease if you want to do it by the book.
That's my thoroughly unprofessional opinion on what I'd do just as a rough starting point.
Edit: That's probably the best possible outcome for finding random springs loose around your rockers.
more_fasterer
14th February 2012, 18:21
^^^ Agreed. Just make sure you rotate the engine to TDC, and ensure the new cam is installed in exactly the same position as the old one.
Just finally got around to installing the Ignitech programmable CDI that I bought ages ago.
Took the bike for a blast, no more noticeable flat spot then surge at 7k, instead it's smooth through the range. I can't tell whether the bike would be noticeably faster or not, but it's way nicer to ride around town.
Also, apparently my tacho was reading 10% high, too...
Edit: Just having a bit more of a play with it, it seems to ignore the side-stand cut off switch. There was a box in the software that said 'inputs for neutral side and stand' but checking it just made the bike never start, no matter what clutch/shifter/side stand position it was in... Anyone else using one of these and trying to keep the cut-out?
I've just brought one for my RVF, once it's back together I'll let you know about the side stand cut out.
Where did you get the programmable CDI from? Direct from Ignitech?
motorbyclist
14th February 2012, 19:56
WOW - at first I thought clutch springs, but too small and WAY too far north...... then sure enough there's where any tappety noises would be coming from!
See something new every day I guess! Jono's advice seems pretty solid
Hey guys n gals, i just bought my first VFR 400R....so no mechanical issues yet. Seems pretty straight and handles well (from the test ride anyway) Im suspended at the 'mo, lost my demerits through speeding on my GSXR...shame. So i decided a down size might be a good idea for a while at least. the only weird thing is the 'SPEED' warning light on the instrument panel. What's that all about? Never encounted that before, so excuse my ignorance ha ha. Also, some tips on service or maintainence intervals or just general comments on this model bike would be greatly appriciated. 1991 VFR 400R. cheers aye:)
Speed light? Photo of said light and whole bike? I'm pretty sure the japanese market NC30 bikes don't have speed lights... you might have an NC21..... NC30 is awesome and has muffler on left hand side, NC21 is far less awesome (but still mechanically solid) and has muffler on right hand side
The motors in stock form are renowned for reliability: key is oil and filter changes. They can be a bit hard on spark plugs I find and spark plugs are VERY expensive.
I find oil every 5,000km and filter every second oil change to be a good recipe for any high-revving and/or sport bike if you want them to last. Oil filter for me every second oil change, air filter and plugs as needed around 20-25K and I usually get the carbs balanced by someone who knows what they're doing around then too.
For road use you don't need to change to a 17" rim unless race slicks become WOF standard. Fitting a wider rear tyre does not enhance handling on the road, either.
Dont be ripped off by NZ bike dealers who want $45 a plug and don't have a clue - $120 for oil filter, air filter and 4 plugs : http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/VFR400RK-NC30-1989-JAPANESE/part_22860/
motorbyclist
14th February 2012, 20:11
1982 NC12
<img src="http://www.adachi.ne.jp/users/matu-08/vf400f.jpeg">
1984 NC13
<img src="http://www.adachi.ne.jp/users/matu-08/vf400fin.jpeg">
1986 NC21
<img src="http://www.adachi.ne.jp/users/matu-08/vfr400r.jpeg">
<img src="http://www.adachi.ne.jp/users/matu-08/vfr400z.jpeg">
1987 NC24
<img src="http://www.adachi.ne.jp/users/matu-08/nc24.jpeg">
1989 NC30
<img src="http://s1.visordown.com/uploads/images/large/5966.jpg">
<img src="http://www.adachi.ne.jp/users/matu-08/nc301.jpeg"><img src="http://www.adachi.ne.jp/users/matu-08/nc302.jpeg">
<img src="http://www.adachi.ne.jp/users/matu-08/nc303.jpeg"><img src="http://www.adachi.ne.jp/users/matu-08/nc304.jpeg">
1994 NC35
<img src="http://www.adachi.ne.jp/users/matu-08/rvf400.jpeg">
PirateJafa
14th February 2012, 20:16
Easiest way to tell the VFR400s apart:
If you have dual swingarms and the exhaust on the RHS, you have a NC21.
If you have a single swingarm with the exhaust on the RHS, you have a NC24.
If you have a single swingarm and the exhaust on the LHS, you have a NC30.
If you have a VFR of any sort, you have chosen wisely.
ecko_nzed
14th February 2012, 20:43
Where did you get the programmable CDI from? Direct from Ignitech?
Rick Oliver http://www.rvf.dk/rickoliver/
sil3nt
14th February 2012, 21:45
Easiest way to tell the VFR400s apart:
If you have dual swingarms and the exhaust on the RHS, you have a NC21.
If you have a single swingarm with the exhaust on the RHS, you have a NC24.
If you have a single swingarm and the exhaust on the LHS, you have a NC30.
If you have a VFR of any sort, you have chosen wisely.Easiest way to tell what bike he has is to look on his profile
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/album.php?albumid=4279&attachmentid=256964
:bleh:
Scuba_Steve
15th February 2012, 08:32
So the keeper for the springs has failed, and the springs and bits have ended up sitting in the head. I would probably assume that there are bits and pieces that have made their way into the sump, too. At least the pieces will be steel, so at a bare minimum, do an oil/filter change and get one of those magnetic sump plugs.
Be worth strapping some neodymium magnets to the oil filter then???
From what I can see all inside looks good, so now I'm on the search for what will be "America's (vfr) Next Top Front Intake Cam"
crazy man
15th February 2012, 16:06
I doubt you would fit the finning in between the frame spars. A 920 NRE motor would be sick as fuck though. Would probably melt the frame from it's sheer awesomeness though. And melt your face.how meany times did the old guy lap you?
http://images.trademe.co.nz/photoserver/86/205610386_full.jpg
PirateJafa
15th February 2012, 18:14
Easiest way to tell what bike he has is to look on his profile
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/album.php?albumid=4279&attachmentid=256964
Was trying to simplify Motorbyclist's picture-spam rather than help him out in particular.
gatch
15th February 2012, 19:37
1991 = NC30, so gear driven cams, infrequent (but expensive valve adjustments) maintenance. The motors in stock form are renowned for reliability: key is oil and filter changes. They can be a bit hard on spark plugs I find and spark plugs are VERY expensive. Check the air filter too, just the normal maintenance stuff you'd do on any bike. The known issues with them revolve around the regulator/rectifier (check its charging properly), and the restricted top speed at 180kph: easy to fix.
If it has stock suspension it will need a rebuild at least probably, or cartidge emulators in the forks and maybe a respring, and a shock rebuild or replacement. the rear tyre size is 18 inch which might cause some issues getting sticky rubber for but it is available. The hot ticket is an RVF400 17 inch rear wheel, but if you do that you will need the new shock to get back the rear ride height you've lost.
Great bikes, truly. Enjoy.
17" wheel is sort of moot now. You can get some good tires for the road, also can purchase bridgestone slicks (dry and wet for the 18" rear. No need for stupidly expensive wheels :D
If you can find an RVF400 rim then it is a straight swap. I have been running a 160 rear with no hassles of clearance. Only thing I did was increase my ride height for the decrease in wheel diameter, but that can also be done with the RVF linkage as well. Only problem I get is slight exhaust/swingaram interference.
My main motivation for doing it was range of tyres available rather than handling.
Did the rvf linkage make any noticeable to the suspension action ?
Well just got home from paintball, went and had another proper look (with more light this time). found where they came from
On the other side (right-hand when facing the bike) of the 2 big middle cogs are something? the top cogs one is broken this is where the 2 chewed pieces of metal & the 4 small springs have come from.
So pictured is the whole front showing the 2 cogs, the complete bottom cog, & the broken top cog
The metal things are gears. Sprockets are for chains to run on. Cogs are made of wood..
how meany times did the old guy lap you?
http://images.trademe.co.nz/photoserver/86/205610386_full.jpg
I smoked the dude. He ended up flat on his back after he tried to take me out haha.
jono035
16th February 2012, 05:23
Rick Oliver http://www.rvf.dk/rickoliver/
Same here. Brilliant guy to deal with.
lukemillar
16th February 2012, 06:32
17" wheel is sort of moot now. You can get some good tires for the road, also can purchase bridgestone slicks (dry and wet for the 18" rear. No need for stupidly expensive wheels :D
Maybe, but it depends on how long the 18's will stick around for! I bought 2 sets of RVF rims from the UK for only slightly more money than people were asking for a second set of NC30 rims (I think I paid about $500 landed per set). Prices seem to have gone up big time here (and there) now though as though people have realized that they are in demand.
Did the rvf linkage make any noticeable to the suspension action ?
I'm still on the 30 linkage. I adjusted my ride height with shock length. I have though modified the NC30 rear linkage though to remove the solid bushing for the lower shock mount - The 35 has a needle bearing here, and you can order/ fit the parts easily/cheaply enough. How much of a difference it makes, I couldn't say, but anything that reduces friction on moving parts can only be a good thing!
motordrummer
16th February 2012, 10:00
Easiest way to tell what bike he has is to look on his profile
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/album.php?albumid=4279&attachmentid=256964
:bleh:
yeah cool, thanks for all the pics/info. looks like i have a NC21 aye. When i looked at the bike on trade me it was advertised as a 1988/91 but the rego says 1991(1st registered in NZ i'm guessing) pretty straight for an old bike, original fairings etc...goes well. Seems to rev forever and haven't seen top gear yet! 2 more weeks and i get my licence back, will take it for a proper run then...he he. Going to get a shop to look it over as well, just to be sure. It is a little small for me tho, reckon a slightly bigger bike would suit. These bikes have a good resale value?
sil3nt
16th February 2012, 10:36
yeah cool, thanks for all the pics/info. looks like i have a NC21 aye. When i looked at the bike on trade me it was advertised as a 1988/91 but the rego says 1991(1st registered in NZ i'm guessing) pretty straight for an old bike, original fairings etc...goes well. Seems to rev forever and haven't seen top gear yet! 2 more weeks and i get my licence back, will take it for a proper run then...he he. Going to get a shop to look it over as well, just to be sure. It is a little small for me tho, reckon a slightly bigger bike would suit. These bikes have a good resale value?Is this the bike? http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/sports/auction-434773535.htm
$2500 seems ok. I wouldn't imagine you would have too much trouble selling it.
motordrummer
16th February 2012, 10:46
Is this the bike? http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/sports/auction-434773535.htm
$2500 seems ok. I wouldn't imagine you would have too much trouble selling it.
yeah that's the one- i even stole the trade me pic for my album ha ha...sweet as, if i decide to pass it on i'll advertise it here i think, cheers:)
gatch
16th February 2012, 16:02
Maybe, but it depends on how long the 18's will stick around for! I bought 2 sets of RVF rims from the UK for only slightly more money than people were asking for a second set of NC30 rims (I think I paid about $500 landed per set). Prices seem to have gone up big time here (and there) now though as though people have realized that they are in demand.
I'm still on the 30 linkage. I adjusted my ride height with shock length. I have though modified the NC30 rear linkage though to remove the solid bushing for the lower shock mount - The 35 has a needle bearing here, and you can order/ fit the parts easily/cheaply enough. How much of a difference it makes, I couldn't say, but anything that reduces friction on moving parts can only be a good thing!
There is/was a 17" on trade me for $500 by itself.. :blink:
I got a spare 18 for $80.. 2 fronts for around $100 each. I hope the slicks are available for a while. There must be a demand for them, I imagine rvf wheel supplies are dwindling..
actungbaby
16th February 2012, 20:23
Maybe, but it depends on how long the 18's will stick around for! I bought 2 sets of RVF rims from the UK for only slightly more money than people were asking for a second set of NC30 rims (I think I paid about $500 landed per set). Prices seem to have gone up big time here (and there) now though as though people have realized that they are in demand.
I'm still on the 30 linkage. I adjusted my ride height with shock length. I have though modified the NC30 rear linkage though to remove the solid bushing for the lower shock mount - The 35 has a needle bearing here, and you can order/ fit the parts easily/cheaply enough. How much of a difference it makes, I couldn't say, but anything that reduces friction on moving parts can only be a good thing!
can you get needle roller bearings from local bearing place to fit not use honda ones i need to replace
ones in my xr 200rf prolink leakages there where stuffed rusted and fell to peice thought where rat dropings hehe
gatch
16th February 2012, 20:27
can you get needle roller bearings from local bearing place to fit not use honda ones i need to replace
ones in my xr 200rf prolink leakages there where stuffed rusted and fell to peice thought where rat dropings hehe
You will have to measure the shaft and hole where the bearings are situated. Then take your measurements to skf or saeco and see if they can help.
actungbaby
17th February 2012, 10:31
You will have to measure the shaft and hole where the bearings are situated. Then take your measurements to skf or saeco and see if they can help.
Thanks for your hlep and info yes skf was the place i was thinking of
Harvd
24th February 2012, 10:06
Hey guys, I've just noticed that my RHS footpeg mount has got two cracks that are growing around the bolt holes... I think they started when the bike fell in the June earthquakes here in chch.
Has anyone got a stock RVF footpeg mount you wouldn't mind parting with for some $$?
number 2 on this link
Parts fiche (http://images.cmsnl.com/img/partslists/step-rvf400rr-nc35-japanese-domestic_big00026261f19_083d.gif)
actungbaby
24th February 2012, 10:30
Hey guys, I've just noticed that my RHS footpeg mount has got two cracks that are growing around the bolt holes... I think they started when the bike fell in the June earthquakes here in chch.
Has anyone got a stock RVF footpeg mount you wouldn't mind parting with for some $$?
number 2 on this link
Parts fiche (http://images.cmsnl.com/img/partslists/step-rvf400rr-nc35-japanese-domestic_big00026261f19_083d.gif)
I got one from vfr 750 just needs weld around where foot peg pin slots through as half of it is missing
Am getting replacemnt from england not sure vfr is totally diffrent most probley but offer is there mate
Harvd
24th February 2012, 12:44
I got one from vfr 750 just needs weld around where foot peg pin slots through as half of it is missing
Am getting replacemnt from england not sure vfr is totally diffrent most probley but offer is there mate
Cheers for the offer but Yeah they are different, different to even the Vfr400 which i was hoping would be the same. If i get desperate i could always get the two cracks welded and hope?
HenryDorsetCase
24th February 2012, 13:08
There is/was a 17" on trade me for $500 by itself.. :blink:
was. I offered the guy $400 for it but someone hit buy now at $500.
I shouldn't have tried to be a smart arse and just paid the money.
gatch
24th February 2012, 20:49
was. I offered the guy $400 for it but someone hit buy now at $500.
I shouldn't have tried to be a smart arse and just paid the money.
What did you want the 17" for specifically ? Tyre choice ? Already have other 17"s already ?
gatch
24th February 2012, 20:51
Cheers for the offer but Yeah they are different, different to even the Vfr400 which i was hoping would be the same. If i get desperate i could always get the two cracks welded and hope?
My RHS bracket was broken too, right through. That got welded up about a year ago. No sweat.
motorbyclist
26th February 2012, 16:06
get it welded - won't cost you bugger all compared to a new part
crazy man
26th February 2012, 18:05
get it welded - won't cost you bugger all compared to a new partmy new buctet of shite
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258529&d=1330234006
gatch
26th February 2012, 18:19
my new buctet of shite
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258529&d=1330234006
pfff looks amateur as, who built that for you...
crazy man
26th February 2012, 19:06
pfff looks amateur as, who built that for you...some guy from china made from tin cans i think and its got the crapy old fx motor in it which can have suzki ground of it
gatch
26th February 2012, 20:30
some guy from china made from tin cans i think and its got the crapy old fx motor in it which can have suzki ground of it
Sounds about right..
Pity nobody makes a v4 150 motor eh..
crazy man
27th February 2012, 18:53
Sounds about right..
Pity nobody makes a v4 150 motor eh..may have to stroke a 400 ...maybe not will weigh a ton
motorbyclist
28th February 2012, 23:53
so I just ordered a (genuine honda) rear disc and rear bearings from the UK, along with air filter, oil filter, plugs, handgrips and bar-ends.
$600 worth with shipping!
So seeing as I'll be playing mechanic for a weekend coming soon (60,000km!), does anyone have a dead motor around? If I'm super-duper keen I might drop the motor out and have a look at the state of 1st and 2nd gear, but if I don't like what I see I'm not sure where I might find parts..... rvf has a different ratio to vfr for first gear, but it might be the selector drum or one of the forks giving me grief (1st-2nd shifts are getting crunchier, pops out of 2nd into first in 1% of shifts, neutral light crapping out - something is giving a metal sliding/scraping feel through the stick and I think it's the selector drum)
tbh I don't see myself dropping the motor unless I have bits on hand - that said I just spent $600 for brake disc (needed, but it was passing wofs regardless) and bearings (not needed, doing "seeing as I'm down there") and peace of mind would be nice - can do valve shims and re-seat valves while I'm at it.... just if bits need replacing I don't want to wait weeks for them to arrive - and not that many bits are available! http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-rvf400rr-nc35-japanese-domestic_model17197/partslist/E14.html
sil3nt
29th February 2012, 10:05
One in every ten shifts from first to second results in hitting neutral. Every other gear is smooth but first to second can feel rough. Does the NC30 not have a cassette type gearbox?
gatch
29th February 2012, 15:50
Any of you cunts going to be at the motoTT day at Taupo, march 16th ?
I want to cane around with another half decent rider on a stock vfr. That's assuming of course that any of you cunts are half decent riders hahahaha. And that your bike is stock.
Come on sissys. GET THERE.
koba
29th February 2012, 17:37
Gearbox stuff
If you are going to go split it you may as well get the parts in there machined and undercut. It's not all that expensive and should give a better result, sure I't means the bike might be off the road for a bit longer but it's gotta be worth it.
koba
29th February 2012, 17:38
Any of you cunts going to be at the motoTT day at Taupo, march 16th ?
I want to cane around with another half decent rider on a stock vfr. That's assuming of course that any of you cunts are half decent riders hahahaha. And that your bike is stock.
Come on sissys. GET THERE.
Sigh, I can't make it to whoop you on my stock '21.
lukemillar
29th February 2012, 18:47
Any of you cunts going to be at the motoTT day at Taupo, march 16th ?
I want to cane around with another half decent rider on a stock vfr. That's assuming of course that any of you cunts are half decent riders hahahaha. And that your bike is stock.
Come on sissys. GET THERE.
I won't have my engine back together by then. I was hoping to make the NZSBK round at the end of the month, but that is looking slim. Wouldn't have been a stock bike though.... :cool:
sil3nt
29th February 2012, 18:50
Any of you cunts going to be at the motoTT day at Taupo, march 16th ?
I want to cane around with another half decent rider on a stock vfr. That's assuming of course that any of you cunts are half decent riders hahahaha. And that your bike is stock.
Come on sissys. GET THERE.If i have the money i will try and do both days. Bike is stock, rider is shit.
gatch
29th February 2012, 19:27
If you are going to go split it you may as well get the parts in there machined and undercut. It's not all that expensive and should give a better result, sure I't means the bike might be off the road for a bit longer but it's gotta be worth it.
I should have gotten onto this sooner. The gears in a vfr are all straight cut ?
I could be manufacturing loads of these fuckers.
gatch
29th February 2012, 19:29
Sigh, I can't make it to whoop you on my stock '21.
Excuses..
I won't have my engine back together by then. I was hoping to make the NZSBK round at the end of the month, but that is looking slim. Wouldn't have been a stock bike though.... :cool:
Excuses..
If i have the money i will try and do both days. Bike is stock, rider is shit.
Mean ! I hope to see you there man.
I might look at the moneys and do both days, it just means I'll be on the limiter going down the back straight..
sil3nt
29th February 2012, 19:37
Mean ! I hope to see you there man.
I might look at the moneys and do both days, it just means I'll be on the limiter going down the back straight..I hope i can make it. I always talk about trackdays but never end up going. Generally because I forget and usually because i have no money.
Trackday on Monday at hampton. Will check tomorrow see if there are any spots left.
lukemillar
29th February 2012, 19:37
Excuses..
Like you would have kept up anyway! ;)
gatch
29th February 2012, 20:50
Like you would have kept up anyway! ;)
I would have been so far ahead, it would seem to the untrained eye that you had lapped me..
Unfortunately to the trained eye it would look the same too..
koba
29th February 2012, 20:51
I should have gotten onto this sooner. The gears in a vfr are all straight cut ?
I could be manufacturing loads of these fuckers.
Not sure, bound to be pics on this internet thingy. If not I have a set buried in a box somewhere that I may have a look at if I can find them.
koba
29th February 2012, 20:56
Excuses..
Yeah, pretty much but still not as lame as your excuses for not coming bucket racing more often.
gatch
29th February 2012, 21:14
Not sure, bound to be pics on this internet thingy. If not I have a set buried in a box somewhere that I may have a look at if I can find them.
NC30 ratios would be different to the 21 no doubt ? Maybe I'll look for a wrecked motor..
Yeah, pretty much but still not as lame as your excuses for not coming bucket racing more often.
Touche. I'm making a new fuel tank at the moment, should be good to go not long after..
koba
29th February 2012, 21:17
NC30 ratios would be different to the 21 no doubt ? Maybe I'll look for a wrecked motor..
Very, this box is a 30 tho.
gatch
29th February 2012, 21:39
Very, this box is a 30 tho.
Shot. If you find them and they are in good nick, give me a shout. I'd like to have a go at replicating some, the only thing we aren't set up for is cutting the splines. So aside from that, it may work out to be a fairly cheap exercise.
EDIT - Actually if I could put a dividing head on our shaping machine.. The plot thickens.
koba
29th February 2012, 21:47
Shot. If you find them and they are in good nick, give me a shout. I'd like to have a go at replicating some, the only thing we aren't set up for is cutting the splines. So aside from that, it may work out to be a fairly cheap exercise.
EDIT - Actually if I could put a dividing head on our shaping machine.. The plot thickens.
If I do find them I'll let you know and I can bring them along to the next bucket meet...
gatch
29th February 2012, 21:52
If I do find them I'll let you know and I can bring them along to the next bucket meet...
:facepalm: Damn.
ecko_nzed
29th February 2012, 21:54
Does the NC30 not have a cassette type gearbox?
BHAHAHAHA:killingme
negative. if you wanna get at it and get the shafts out, you have to strip the entire motor.
actually I lie, you can leave the front head on if you want.
ecko_nzed
29th February 2012, 22:04
Come on my GPX 250 has a cassette gearbox!
These bikes really do sound like absolute cunts to work on. Mechanics must try and hide when someone brings one in.
Once you get the motor out of the frame they're not too bad. some tricky bits if you don't have the right tools, but they come apart pretty easy. I'll give you my opinion on the going back together soon.....
If I ever get my crank and heads back :wait:
sil3nt
29th February 2012, 22:05
Once you get the motor out of the frame they're not too bad. some tricky bits if you don't have the right tools, but they come apart pretty easy. I'll give you my opinion on the going back together soon.....
If I ever get my crank and heads back :wait:Haha deleted my post because my 250 does not have a cassette gearbox. No idea where i got that from. Complete brain fade tonight.
I am really good at taking things apart. Not so good at putting things back together.
motorbyclist
29th February 2012, 22:12
One in every ten shifts from first to second results in hitting neutral. Every other gear is smooth but first to second can feel rough. Does the NC30 not have a cassette type gearbox?
mine (nc35) isn't one in ten... maybe one in one hundred.... that said it might be higher... happens a few times a week (100-200km/week commute)
the feel through the foot shift suggests some metal on metal sliding contact, ie selector drum or forks... anything really which could in turn lead to improper loading (& subsequent unloading) of gears
If you are going to go split it you may as well get the parts in there machined and undercut. It's not all that expensive and should give a better result, sure I't means the bike might be off the road for a bit longer but it's gotta be worth it.
but i just want to fix it!
I don't need to split it to take a look.... just take the lid off, that's all! (crying on the inside)
Very, this box is a 30 tho.
30, 35, not fussed!
motorbyclist
29th February 2012, 22:17
Haha deleted my post :
These bikes really do sound like absolute cunts to work on. Mechanics must try and hide when someone brings one in..
they are designed for little japanese hands.
They're also designed for racing - ie it's actually a pretty good setup if you drop the motor and plan on doing everything
Mechanics by and large don't even seem to know what they are..... I recommend taking NC30s to mechanics with specific NC30 experience - it's the difference between 20 minutes skilled labour or 3 hours exploratory surgery. AJ at motohaus can have them stripped down and balancing carbs in 20minutes flat!
sil3nt
29th February 2012, 22:28
Mechanics by and large don't even seem to know what they are..... I recommend taking NC30s to mechanics with specific NC30 experience - it's the difference between 20 minutes skilled labour or 3 hours exploratory surgery. AJ at motohaus can have them stripped down and balancing carbs in 20minutes flat!Now that sounds good!
See quite a few NC30s in at Honda Hamilton so I would imagine the know what they are up to. I also know one of the boyds motorcycles mechanics has owned one and I was talking to a parts dude there today who currently has one. So I would like to think Hamilton mechanics are familiar with the bikes. Although I would like to check out AJ at some point thanks to the good word put out in the thread.
gatch
2nd March 2012, 19:28
If I do find them I'll let you know and I can bring them along to the next bucket meet...
Yo. You should have a look for that gear box bro. I have a draft plan of how to go about this. I think I could do a pretty good job of it all. Even if the gears are helical cut. Which I think they would, as they are not as noisy as straight cuts.
The only thing I would need to pay for is material cost (I'd use EN39b) and case hardening.
koba
2nd March 2012, 22:42
Even if the gears are helical cut. Which I think they would, as they are not as noisy as straight cuts.
Pretty sure they are straight cut. Except maybe the primary drive.
lukemillar
3rd March 2012, 06:53
Pretty sure they are straight cut. Except maybe the primary drive.
Straight cut:
259016
gatch
3rd March 2012, 14:42
Flag it, just got a new job. Won't be able to get it done in a month.
crazy man
3rd March 2012, 20:14
Flag it, just got a new job. Won't be able to get it done in a month.oh no what will keth do or did you give him a black eye
PirateJafa
3rd March 2012, 22:26
Blast.
Saw a NC30 steering dampener on TM for $60 this morning, so watchlisted it and hoped for some luck in a couple of days when it closed.
Then the blasted seller added a buy-now for $60 when I was out driving trucks, and some lucky blighter snapped it up.
No bling for the NC30 any time soon then. :(
sil3nt
3rd March 2012, 22:53
Blast.
Saw a NC30 steering dampener on TM for $60 this morning, so watchlisted it and hoped for some luck in a couple of days when it closed.
Then the blasted seller added a buy-now for $60 when I was out driving trucks, and some lucky blighter snapped it up.
No bling for the NC30 any time soon then. :(Anything tagged with NC30 gets emailed to me daily by trademe. The damper was emailed on the 2nd but I must have skimmed over it. I would have snapped it up as well.
lukemillar
4th March 2012, 10:07
Anything tagged with NC30 gets emailed to me daily by trademe. The damper was emailed on the 2nd but I must have skimmed over it. I would have snapped it up as well.
I saw the damper and thought about it, but I really don't think you need one on the NC30! I have ridden my bike fairly hard and the only time I have ever got the bars to slap was running off the track and going dirt tracking over the bumps!
sil3nt
4th March 2012, 10:14
I saw the damper and thought about it, but I really don't think you need one on the NC30! I have ridden my bike fairly hard and the only time I have ever got the bars to slap was running off the track and going dirt tracking over the bumps!I'm a sucker for buying shit I don't need.
Photo of the bike I took this morning. I think it came out quite well (if you ignore the over exposed background) :Punk:
259083
lukemillar
4th March 2012, 10:16
I'm a sucker for buying shit I don't need.
Photo of the bike I took this morning. I think it came out quite well (if you ignore the over exposed background) :Punk:
259083
Nice! looking pretty tidy.
actungbaby
4th March 2012, 12:34
Cheers for the offer but Yeah they are different, different to even the Vfr400 which i was hoping would be the same. If i get desperate i could always get the two cracks welded and hope?
well if you take to engineering oufit with good quailty gear the welding make it as good as new unless the casting is cracked all over
well what mean by that the casting just showing signs of just pain old age not just stress fracture
But considering castings much better material these days not old shit metal as my old boss vic whould say die cast 60s crap
Also i forget what you model is i got nc 21 also on the way if you want swap parts that be fine also as long got something to use myself
or do serach on ebay i got replacment for my vfr 750 just have to pay for it that and footpeg and mudguard all brought.
ecko_nzed
4th March 2012, 22:10
decided to tidy up my motor before I put it back together. Went with gloss black (that's the only black VHT they had)
lukemillar
5th March 2012, 06:45
decided to tidy up my motor before I put it back together. Went with gloss black (that's the only black VHT they had)
No way! - I did exactly the same thing yesterday, but went with aluminium.
ecko_nzed
5th March 2012, 09:44
No way! - I did exactly the same thing yesterday, but went with aluminium.
Well pony up, show us your shiny aluninium looking cases :corn:
is this your race motor with the FCR's? what other work have you done to the motor?
lukemillar
5th March 2012, 10:41
Well pony up, show us your shiny aluninium looking cases :corn:
is this your race motor with the FCR's? what other work have you done to the motor?
Need to take some pics. Well, I need to wait 7 days before I can patch up the bits I missed- Had to do it in the garage with the door shut because of the frickin wind and couldn't see that well :(
Yep, that's the motor. So far I have:
balanced crank
new matched NC35 pistons + rings ( + matched rods)
checked tolerances of pretty much everything internal + cleaned up everything
skimmed heads
some basic porting (seat -> bowl blending, inlets matched to rubbers and casting snot removal)
slotted RVF camshafts
HRC style oil cooler
I just need to finish off the porting and then just start rebuilding the thing.
crazy man
5th March 2012, 14:19
Need to take some pics. Well, I need to wait 7 days before I can patch up the bits I missed- Had to do it in the garage with the door shut because of the frickin wind and couldn't see that well :(
Yep, that's the motor. So far I have:
balanced crank
new matched NC35 pistons + rings ( + matched rods)
checked tolerances of pretty much everything internal + cleaned up everything
skimmed heads
some basic porting (seat -> bowl blending, inlets matched to rubbers and casting snot removal)
slotted RVF camshafts
HRC style oil cooler
I just need to finish off the porting and then just start rebuilding the thing.do you want some HRC grinds put on your cams?
lukemillar
5th March 2012, 15:19
do you want some HRC grinds put on your cams?
I was actually going to ask you about that... depends on the cost I guess
crazy man
5th March 2012, 15:30
I was actually going to ask you about that... depends on the cost I guessl will talk to dad and get you a good price.
lukemillar
5th March 2012, 16:06
l will talk to dad and get you a good price.
Sweet - chuck me a message on here when you find out as I'm definitely keen
gatch
5th March 2012, 18:03
oh no what will keth do or did you give him a black eye
Nar I accepted a job offer in wellington. Though there has been a lot of temptation to give a black eye..
A LOT !
crazy man
5th March 2012, 18:32
Nar I accepted a job offer in wellington. Though there has been a lot of temptation to give a black eye..
A LOT !how do you get to wellington everyday? or are you going to move there?
lukemillar
5th March 2012, 19:28
Well pony up, show us your shiny aluninium looking cases :corn:
Cases:
http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/750/img0923n.jpg
http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/2348/img0925en.jpg
http://img804.imageshack.us/img804/8328/img0927b.jpg
gatch
5th March 2012, 20:02
how do you get to wellington everyday? or are you going to move there?
Gonna move down.
koba
5th March 2012, 21:43
Gonna move down.
There goes the neighbourhood...
crazy man
6th March 2012, 06:41
There goes the neighbourhood...party central
crazy man
6th March 2012, 06:44
Cases:
http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/750/img0923n.jpg
http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/2348/img0925en.jpg
http://img804.imageshack.us/img804/8328/img0927b.jpglooking nice ,did you get some over size pistons for it? or still stock?
lukemillar
6th March 2012, 07:32
looking nice ,did you get some over size pistons for it? or still stock?
Still stock - Don't want to kick myself out of the new posties F3 class! I did get NC35 pistons though which are a different design and slightly lighter than the NC30 ones. Some people say they are slightly higher comp the the 30's as well, but I don't think there is much in it
gatch
6th March 2012, 16:28
Still stock - Don't want to kick myself out of the new posties F3 class! I did get NC35 pistons though which are a different design and slightly lighter than the NC30 ones. Some people say they are slightly higher comp the the 30's as well, but I don't think there is much in it
Out of interest what are you running for suspension on your machine ?
lukemillar
6th March 2012, 18:44
Out of interest what are you running for suspension on your machine ?
I have early K model forks, so just springs and emulators up front, but replaced the rear shock with an Ohlins
gatch
6th March 2012, 19:00
I have early K model forks, so just springs and emulators up front, but replaced the rear shock with an Ohlins
And the pcra people are all good with that ?
I only ask cause I have this shock and am wondering if people will waah about it.. As I am more than likely going to win every race I enter..
lukemillar
6th March 2012, 19:27
And the pcra people are all good with that ?
I only ask cause I have this shock and am wondering if people will waah about it.. As I am more than likely going to win every race I enter..
yeah - forks have to remain period which means you must have K model damping rod forks, not the cartridge one from 90+. Shock is open, so that is no issue
gatch
6th March 2012, 19:56
yeah - forks have to remain period which means you must have K model damping rod forks, not the cartridge one from 90+. Shock is open, so that is no issue
Sweet, mine is 89 model anyway.. Just need to get some forks sorted and I'm in I think.
ecko_nzed
6th March 2012, 22:25
I have early K model forks, so just springs and emulators up front, but replaced the rear shock with an Ohlins
you got any pics of your shock. where did you get it from?
lukemillar
7th March 2012, 08:23
you got any pics of your shock. where did you get it from?
Bought it from CKT(now KSS) about a year ago:
http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/5043/img1391b.jpg
crazy man
7th March 2012, 17:25
Bought it from CKT(now KSS) about a year ago:
http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/5043/img1391b.jpglooks like your going all out:first:
lukemillar
7th March 2012, 18:47
looks like your going all out:first:
Haha - I have had the shock since I bought the bike a year ago. Doesn't look as shiny as that anymore though
ecko_nzed
9th March 2012, 07:00
Haha - I have had the shock since I bought the bike a year ago. Doesn't look as shiny as that anymore though
still be it makes a huge difference. I'm saving for one at the momment. I didn't realise how fcuked my rear shock was till i rode a gixer 600 and wasn't getting thrown out of my seat on bumps
lukemillar
9th March 2012, 12:41
still be it makes a huge difference. I'm saving for one at the momment. I didn't realise how fcuked my rear shock was till i rode a gixer 600 and was getting thrown out of my seat on bumps
Yep - I only really rode it on the road withe the stock suspension, but it's pushing 23 years old- that oil is way past it's best.
gatch
9th March 2012, 17:47
Yep - I only really rode it on the road withe the stock suspension, but it's pushing 23 years old- that oil is way past it's best.
It sure as hell doesn't get better on the track. Anything short of progressively winding on the gas through a turn will have you doing all kinds of odd things, bottoming out mid turn and under brakes, massive understeer rear wheel spinning if you hit a bump etc.
HenryDorsetCase
10th March 2012, 21:53
It sure as hell doesn't get better on the track. Anything short of progressively winding on the gas through a turn will have you doing all kinds of odd things, bottoming out mid turn and under brakes, massive understeer rear wheel spinning if you hit a bump etc.
the worst thing abuot mine with the stock shock was it dragged its arse on the ground really badly. I thought it was OK, till I put the new shock in it and all of a sudden I wasnt dragging bits on the ground, going quicker, and still had little bits of chicken strips (instead of squirmy squirelly balling right to the edge....) I actually dropped the footpeg height so it was more comfy on my knees after that cos the pegs werent decking out. Street shift pattern too
gatch
10th March 2012, 22:29
the worst thing abuot mine with the stock shock was it dragged its arse on the ground really badly. I thought it was OK, till I put the new shock in it and all of a sudden I wasnt dragging bits on the ground, going quicker, and still had little bits of chicken strips (instead of squirmy squirelly balling right to the edge....) I actually dropped the footpeg height so it was more comfy on my knees after that cos the pegs werent decking out. Street shift pattern too
Mean. I can't wait to put the shock I bought in. I need to get some goodies for the forks first though.
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